Mono Slab EZ Form Monolithic Slab Foundation in Alaska
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Using Mono Slab EZ Form to prep a monolithic slab foundation with footers set for building Fox Block ICF walls to the rafters. This video shows site prep through the pouring of concrete.
Great work! I would love to hear an update on the house and how everything works. Thanks for sharing
Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your videos. Always been my dream to have a cabin in Alaska. I know it would be much smaller than your project but this is helping me out a great deal.
Thanks for your encouraging words. We are learning as we go, also. Keep your Alaskan cabin dream alive!
I love that form system! Thanks for sharing.
You really needed to put a vapor barrier under the entire slab. You also needed to insulate the perimeter of the foundation...under the footings. That area will wick heat from your slab into the ground that is in contact with the concrete. The radiant pipes also look a little too far apart, which might create cold spots on the floor.
I had the same thoughts as here in On. Canada perimeter insulation on both sides (8'-0" inside & 4'-0" outside) of the slabs perimeter edge is extremely important while centre slab insulation can be very minimal as heat loss at the centre of the slab is low while at the outside edge (Both sides) of the slab heat loss is very high! A 10 mill poly vapour, moisture & gas ground cover was also notably absent.
Where in Alaska did you build this foundation? How is it holding up 3 years later? I'm going to be building on the Kenai Peninsula next summer, near Soldotna and Kasilof so I'm very intrigued with this concept! How has it help up to the seismic activity???? Any insights you can share would be greatly appreciated!!!
nice workmanship and well thought out everybody. well designed floor and floor plan. hats off to the boys on a job well done girls also. stay safe
Thanks!
I didn't notice til now, no foam under footing area so i suppose frost shouldn't get underneath too much with in floor heat warming the ground there
Underground EPS need a peel-and-stick membrane.
Great info to share, well done
great work guys. thanks for the videos
I wanted to comment on pressurized aspects of the radiant heat pipes we put in and spacing. First all of it was tested and we selected a larger size and spaced it by specs. My fathers house was done with the same spacing and there are no temp changes on his floor till you get close to doors of course.
Just curious, no frost protection? That foam is not closed cell foam is it? No type of membrane over top of white bead board foam? That stuff will get soaked with water & lose all r value. Hopefully u're in a part of Alaska that doesn't get too cold other wise frost is going right underneath.
Wow, moving right along!
Cape Breton Lifestyle ;) Awesome Hoodie on the young one!
Capers unite!
No vapor barrier?
I found your YT channel today. I look forward to the finish product. What was the cost for Mono Slab EZ form? I really like the process. Thanks for sharing.
We used the 16" forms, 8' long each, and I believe the cost was about $80-90 per form. It may seem like a large cost up front, but we saved on concrete and had the built-in insulating factor. Plus, it was easy to install. We were impressed with it! Best of luck on your upcoming project! :)
those heated floor pipe are usually capped of and pressurized with air, to test them before pouring concrete, also to simulate the working conditions (pressurized with heating fluid). heating pipes seam to be too far apart, you will feel distinct cold and hot lines in winters, probably not to good for concrete also.
Thank you for the video and information. I'm considering this method for building a hangar in Wasilla. What would you do different, if you were building another structure like this or shop on the property? Did you source the EZ Form locally, or bring it up from down south?
What has happened with water nozzle? while they was pouring concrete, they step on them for a while, thus they could damaged its at all!
We want to share an afterthought! When placing the 2X8 boards in the Mono Slab, make sure to leave some spacing between boards because we didn't and it was difficult to remove them afterwards.
How is the mono slab with heat doing? I would be concerned with no styrofoam under the footer. Cold would seap in and up I would think.
Hi. Why do you want to heat the ground under the house?
I would like to know what they wanted for price on the ez form and fox blocks looking at building a house up there
Did you pressure test the pex runs after install? Also I’m curious if they cut the slab?
Is this Ana White speaking on this video?
where did you buy the mono slab easy forms? I'm in Alaska as well n I have never seen those up here.
Sorry to be a weirdo but thanks for sharing your build with us. Subscribing for sure.
We hope some folks can learn what to do and what not to do! It has been quite the process, thus far! Thanks!
I didnt look yet, but I read the comment about the radiant heat pipes being capped of and pressurized. This is important because during a pour a worker could puncture a hose and your kinda screwed after that. This is the standard building code here in most places in NC. Just be careful when putting that way I guess?
Where did you purchase these monoslab blocks? I met some guys at the homeshow selling them but am having a hard time locating these in Anchorage. Thanks
Builders choice
Love watching these videos, one question about the mono slab forms, I noticed there is no vapor barrier under the slab save for the iso board, correct?
So when you put on the siding (rock and wood siding) on the icf walls, you will have some kind of wrap or fluid applied moister/air product does that extend down past the icf's to also cover a portion of the outside of the ez forms? So any water coming down the wall will not get between the ez form and your concrete.
Correct, the house is above grade on a hill, so we did not feel it necessary to do the vapor barrier below the foam board. Yes, we will put bitchathane on the lower three feet of the walls and extend it down because we are eventually going to use indigenous rock on that part. Thanks for your feedback!
What was the spacing on your re-rod on the top?
John, that is a really good question! It's been so long since we did that, I don't remember exactly. I want to say about 2 feet, but it may be more. Our friend who does a lot of concrete work helped with that aspect.
I have to ask you how you ordered this system seems I cant find anyone near Nashville, Tn that has ever heard of it or the company
It was over 3 years ago that I saw this product on UA-cam and thought, this would be nice if it meets code here in Alaska. When we sat down with our building supplier and designed the house, he said have you seen this product? I was like YES! So our building supplier was builders choice in Anchorage Alaska. My relatives are from Kingsport Tn, and 2 of my cousins know all the suppliers, I could ask them. This is the husband of Jen BTW. I will look into east coast suppliers and get back to you.
here is a contact info for you, PO box 371 Island park ID. 83429 phone # 208-558-5200...……… I'd call them and find out about your area.
Why no vapor barrier ??
how many square feet is this home?
Chris, it's 1200 s.f. on this main floor, and later in the build, you will see another 200 added in an upstairs loft.
Kendrick Homestead and how many yards of concrete did it take?
@@parmoni I believe it was 32 yards for the slab.
I don't know anything about the code in your neck of the woods but over here footings need to go well below frost depth. You being in Alaska having real winters, the footings seems to be a bit shallow to me?
Bor the Wolf They don't tend to build foundations the way we do in the lower 48. Traditional foundations are prohibitively expensive to avoid freezing problems, hence the title of this video. Look up monolithic slab, floating slab, or Alaska slab. I used to know this better when I was considering building a cabin in Alaska. Might still give it a try.
You have to get all organics out when using these forms as footer depths don't have to be 48"
They have permafrost up in those latitudes, so if they were to break the permafrost with pile/piers or footers, the work previously done would just sink as the ground thawed.
Build to grade and make your roof slope,not your grade slope!
If that floor was the finish product and color u should of ran a pan on it and bump cut it for a FF floor!!!
Santa make house.
Wish he wasn’t standing like that in that unsafe trench
Hey get that kid out of that trench. That was dangerous.
Hearing footer over and over again is like nails on a chalkboard. Footing!
So tell us.. Do you say Pop or Soda?
Great work! I would love to hear an update on the house and how everything works. Thanks for sharing.
no vapor barrier ?