Quick question I used to paint ages ago with paints from Reaper Miniatures Blue Steel & Green Steel I used the Green to paint one of my Bretoniann Green Knights both colours are discontinued does anyone else make metallic colours ie Blue/Green ?
yeah I came looking for this comment because I thought the exact same thing. Its really defined in the shoulder just how much of a difference it is sheen wise.
Man! Bro, I'm sitting here thinking the exact same thing! I'm like, "Dude, we can see a very clear reflection of your finger and even your fingernail at points in that sword as he moved his finger!" So, not to be disrespectful but, maybe bro needs glasses. They made a world of difference in my eyesight. Just a thought.
If this is like the mirror effect nail polishes that exist that wouldn't be needed. The paint pulls together and forms a mirror flat surface by itself through surface tension.
@@WhichDoctor1 it can't do that if the surface below is too rough. This is still really thin paint. Gloss primer makes a huge difference for any metallic paint.
could you argue it’s 3 or more colours? because a mirror finish like that will reflect colours from all around making it technically hundreds of different colours.
And the miniature wasn't based in gloss black as well.. I also feel like he did not wait for it to "cure", he just painted the minis as soon as the paint "dried". Sometimes, you must buff after the 24 hour cure time to remove the small dust particles then it will show the mirror like finish...
@@BGLoscar yeah the instructions on that paint is to allow for at least 24 hours up to 48 hours to fully dry before doing anything with it and the first thing you do with it should be applying another coat. It definitely doesn't have the 10-20 minute drying time that we are used to as miniature painters.
I'd highly recommend checking out how WWII scale aircraft modelers do bare metal to understand why this was not a valid test. These paints (and the ever ubiquitous Alcad metals) require a super smooth surface. Generally you polish the bare plastic, apply a gloss black primer, polish the primer, THEN apply the paint. That's how you get the mirror finish.
There's a discernable difference in the shot between Vallejo and the Mirror paint. Its subtle but it IS shinier. Giving me ideas. Also bonus points for supporting Semple and coincidentally giving a paint drenched middle finger to Anish Kapoor (if ya don't know google Semple vs Kapoor)
I would even go so far to call it a massive difference, the Vallejo one diffuses the light waaaaaay more then the Mirror paint which looks way more "crisp".
The best chrome I know is Molotow Liquid Chrome. It literally put a mirror on my minis. Use with black glossy undercoat. Give a week to dry (maybe less would also work, but better save than sorry) before putting a gloss varnish (or anything else) on top of it. It is alcohol based, so you can use ethanol for cleaning (the airbrush). Comes in a pen or a refill pack. Pen can be opened (do not tip the metal ball in your airbrush). You can also draw with the pen on your mini, but it will be thick and reduce detail (paint needs to be thick for mirror effect in this case).
From what I've seen it's *super* delicate, look at it wrong and loses the chrome effect, and it looks like most varnishes do the same to it. That's problematic for minis. Here's a video on this: ua-cam.com/video/vd83iJkjIm8/v-deo.html
@@vasili1207 Not necessarily. There are plenty of reflective surfaces that could be considered mirrors or mirror-like when you get into fantasy or cyber miniatures.
@@vasili1207 wrong. Sigvald the magnificent by GW literally wears mirrored armour and has a bodyguard called the mirror guard who do too. A regular silver paint wouldn't work with them
Yeah Molotow Liquid Chrome is incredible - way better than this stuff. Just don't use a regular gloss varnish on it. I've used Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear Coat and that seemed to work well.
@@daviddickson412 I feel really guilty. As an electrician, for years I had been chucking old thermostats in the garbage without thinking. Of course they all had a little ampoule of mercury in them. Oops.
Yeah, I think even if he had painted the non metal parts first and then applied the mirror last (and not tried to paint over it) it might have had a better chance of working. Or just used enamels/oils rather than water based for the whole thing. I quite liked the mirror paint.
Was concerned why the paint wasn't sticking and checked Stuart's shop. In the description of mirror paint is written to leave it dry for 24h before touching - maybe that was the problem? Alternatively I would gloss varnish before next step. But if you don't try you won't know! For people who want to get the mirroriest mirror paint for their minis - you helped them skip a step of experimentation! :)
This is typical of all solvent/laquer paints. They need gas time, otherwise the gasses released while it cures will dissolve and ruin whatever you put over it. The issue he was having with adhesion of his glazing is also typical of these hyper chrome or metal surfaces, its the polar opposite of primer. Shit just does not stick well which is why you'd want to use this only really on its own or a stickier candy. Stuff is amazing for Models and Gunpla, dogshit for Miniatures.
very underwhelming video, nice display of the reflective paint, but trying to apply shades and other paint directly over a metallic paint without using a varnish before on those region, what did you expect ? this feel like a rushed video.
@@Superrugdr I think he just wanted to play with those paints and not do a deep comparison video. It's still nice to see that mirror paint don't clog up details
@@jeffbushey9885 It can work on miniatures too.. Just need a high gloss black which he didn't do that's why he failed to achieve the right outcome.. On a different note, as someone who also paints GUNPLA, I am so happy that someone like you KNOWS the difference between DRY TIME and CURE TIME.. A lot of the people in a Gunpla group that I am in DO NOT understand that and they only wait for like 10 minutes to an hour to apply the next coat then later they're surprised about why the paint is showing some defects..
@@nataliakapusciok4198 When I tried to achieve the mirror effect on my Gunpla, I based it first with Gloss Black, then painted it with Spastix chrome, waited for the 24H cure time then buffed it then I got the mirror chrome result..
Yeah idk you might be the one being over critical not him it clearly didn't work out and was super messy. He's a really awesome painter but he was pretty open that it went wrong this time. I bet most files can atleast keep it clean looking could be wrong tho idk for sure obviously.
I've been working on a Void Dragon lately, that I used the Molotow Chrome pens on. You can open the pen and dump out the "paint" it appears to be even more reflective than this mirror paint. I'd be curious to see you revisit this and compare the two. thanks Emil! Cool video.
@@TheAegisClaw - you have to let it cure. (4-7 days depending on temp) then it hardens. You dont want to use ANY varnish on it, its pretty durable, and no matter which on eyou use, any varnish will ruin the finish of it. The varnish adds a layer that changes the mirror refelction to a diffused one
I've been looking to pick up some of Stuart Semple's paints to see how they'd work on minis. Ive seen some people use his "pinkest pink" and "black 3.0" but you're the first i've seen using the mirror paint.
@@HuntsForge what's awesome is he sells it in a powdered form as well so you can use your own base to mix it in. I have a cousin who uses them for internal screens in a vehicle or if he wants a glowing effect say coming from underneath a gorget in a chaise marine shining on a face. Also makes an incredible addition to glowing effects you are already painting.
I've picked up black 2.0 and the glow on the dark pigments. The black is easily objectively darker than any mini paint I own, but it was difficult to work with, especially to get a finish that didn't show brush strokes, and it's very matte. It does work well for black cloth though (painted Darth Vader a cloak with it and the it's weaknesses in the finish became strengths). The glow in the dark also did not work with minis. Pigment was much to coarse for me to get a smooth paint but that could have also been a lack of mixing machine and using liquitex mediums. What I did discover though is that as a wash it works fan-freaken-tastic as a way to add glowing runes on to etched surfaces. I used it in abase for a cracked rock effect with green magical energy coming through it and I was blown away. The biggest drawback however is that without it glowing it looks completely different.
Interesting! If this paint is anything like the Alclad II chrome paint, you need a gloss black base to work from and then apply the mirror paint in thin coats with your airbrush. I've had some success using the Alclad paints on minis and then carefully applying Tamiya Clear colours ontop for a candy gloss effect.
Great video! Your English is really great and I love hearing you talk - you have awesome presentation skills and humor! Merry Christmas to you, brother! 🎄🎅
I would highly recommend spray on top of a gloss black then seal after. That’s how all automotive chromes and mirror paints work to achieve a shiny reflective finish.
I have had issues with paints running on high gloss due to the lack of porous surface. A cheat is a very thin layer of transparent gloss varnish over the top of your initial layer of undercoat, and then again over the parts of the mini you only want to add a few light touches of colour to.
I absolutely love how Vallejo Metal Colour flows out the airbrush, it's a real pleasure and so easy to clean up too! I'm fairly certain everybody knows there are better metallic paints that are solvent-based or just not acrylic.
Awww yes! I love Stuart Semples' paints for my miniatures. Like Black 3.0 and their Heavy Metals. So glad I can see if this is any good. On the fence with it.
@@stevewagstaff7250 odd, I'd be interested in knowing how you applied it. I don't remember how I did this tank, but I don't think it's powdery. I especially love it used as a primer, because it just sucks the gloss away, so I don't need to buy a matte range. I'll have to see, cause I've got a small squad of units I want to be matte stealth. So I'll keep this in mind. Maybe I brushed last time.
@@PhyKi It was a straight airbrush onto a base coat. I haven't been the only one to have this issue with it. A UK streamer/painter I know had the same issue, and had the pigment powder rub off the model in places.
just another thumbs up for the funky and soulful music you pick as the background. it’s great to see not every miniature painter listening to metal or rock.
Honestly this seems perfect for models with a ton of flat surfaces, mainly gunpla(Which I'd love to see you try and take a stab at painting!). Looks great though!
I recently painted up the Indomitus box necrons with this mirror paint. I recommend using glossy primer as the mirror paint works better on smoother surfaces. Also GW's contrast paints work well over top and can provide cool colored metallic effects depending on what you're going for. Lastly I would suggest a protective layer of gloss varnish over top to prevent wearing the chrome paint off.
I do 40k painting a lot so I wouldn’t really get much mileage on wargaming, because I don’t exactly need super reflective silver. Gold might be cool for Custodes. BUT, I also do Star Wars Legion and customize Star Wars Black Series action figures and this paint, with the proper preparation, would be perfect for The Mandalorian in his Beskar armor.
Lmao, I literally just got this in the mail two days ago planning to use it to candy coat my 1k Sons. Glad to see you're spreading the word about this paint, it's great stuff for certain applications! The best way I've found to apply it is two thin coats (as always), that tends to get the brush strokes out and amps up the shine. I also let it dry for 24 hours before working with anything on top of it. As for why it's not as mirrory on the wood, Stuart Semple has a video about that where he puts it on a variety of surfaces. He mentions that you should seal any porous surface first, and shows what it looks like on sealed wood vs unsealed wood.
Emil, I just finished a GW Nemesis Dreadknight that i completely covered with AK Extreme Metal Polished Aluminium. You need a very fine primer (Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500) and a perfectultra gloss black (Tamiya, Mr Hobby). Then the surface will be mirror-like. The best coverage of color, THAT STICKS on the metal and KEEPS the shine are Tamiya transparent colors. I made many parts in trans red/metal/chrome. Opaque colors have the tendency you described.
The mirror quality and durability of the coat is better suited for creating or replacing chrome on toys. That's where I've seen the most excitement for the product among my various hobby communities.
The guy who invented this paint, Stuart Simple, has a video explaining the proper way to use this to full effect. He also mentions it has a very long drying time, needing up to 12+ hours to dry, it should also be applied normally over a gloss black, and in 2 coats. Either way this video is informative as hell because atm there is only ONE other video of a mini Painter using it on Necrons so multiple perspectives is really nice!
Please check out the lit glow in the dark stuff these guys do, would love to see it work for some power swords, necrons or some ghosts have no idea what to do with pigments though.
I've seen the mirror paint used a few times on things my wife has made. You need to start with a high glossy surface, and it needs to set for 24-48 hours. I wouldn't use it as a base coat at all. But its also a totally different kind of paint
So if I'm understanding right the best course of action would be to apply super glossy black primer, apply the paint, let it dry, apply a gloss varnish, and then continue with other paints?
@@Lucillevt4011 Yes, though regular gloss would likely kill the mirror effect unless very light and careful dose. Some brands, like Alclad, sell special clear coats (aqua gloss) specifically to help mitigate this. Chrome coating (or mirror coating) is pretty hard to and pretty unforgiving if you make a mistake, but man it's great when you pull it off.
When using chrome to make clear colors pop on gunpla instead of thinner using clear gloss helps the color become clear but also stick to the glossy surface below
i'm fairly certain that the mirror paint is made to have a much smoother surface, which would mean that there is less area for other paints to grip on to after. I wonder if it is possible to premix some pigments into it before applying it to the mini.
Mirror can take a solid 24hrs to be properly dry in my opinion. Obviously you can get away with working with it sooner but I always find the longer I leave it the more success I have with getting the layers to stick. Great video as always!
I'm really not familiar with miniature painting, so sorry if this is a silly question, but is there any reason you couldn't do a clear coat between layers as is often popular for scale modeling?
This video comes from the heavens! Just yesterday I decided to paint my Chaos demons shiny and chrome to make them look like beasts from an 80s metal album cover. I thought about picking up Mirror, so thanks, you saved me good money! Gonna go with Vallejo now :) Take care!
One of the most commonly used “chrome” paints in scale modeling is from Molotow. They are most commonly found in paint pen style and also can be found in bottle form. I’ve used it for chrome on several cars and motorcycle models and it’s pretty good. At least as reflective as the Mirror paint you tested.
if you want to layer hydrophobic paints like this with paints that are water-based, you have to reprime between the conflicting layers (spray on varnish can do the job; brush-on varnish will probably also work). if you do this, you can probably use this mirror paint (haven't tried this particular paint myself) with army painter or citadel base coats, washes, etc and they'll behave like or close to normal
Mirror might be useful for doing trim after painting the rest if you are looking for that super polished look. swords and necklaces that you want to look magical could still be un-shaded to maintain that super chrome.
I have this mirror paint and I knew as soon as you tried to use it as a base coat it wouldn't work, I would only use this as a coat of paint on its own with minimal shading on it. so only on things you want to look very shiny and new and maybe apply an oil wash via a thin brush in specific areas.
There have been a few mirror effect nail polishes for a while and some of them are really effective. I'm honestly surprised there aren't more like this in the hobby world and that this one isn't more effective.
There are a few, as it as many as needed. They are used a lot by the model aircraft folks for high polish aluminium skinned planes. They have titanium, aluminium, blues sleep and other colours all in lawyers with unhealthy vapours like the one in the video.
Vallejo = brushed metal Mirror = polished metal That's the difference between the 2. Each has it's place it just depends on what you're looking for. Awesome video.
in my experiance you need to use a base of gloss black, them apply the chrome + the mirror effect will be on the pieces with no texture, that is why the wood piece with really work, you can try with pastic spoons, you will see the results using those. Great video, love your content! cheers!
Those making suggestions about certain chrome/metallic paint products that produce more mirror finishes, keep in mind some of these are using binders and levelers mixed into the product(and these don't react well to being thinned further beyond a specified dilution with their associated/recommended solvents). Those types of paints are formulated to fill the finer surface textures to produce a more "out of the bottle" mirror finish. Once you get pass the fillers, you're left with the same basics of doing high polish finishes with metallics, which is to always start with the smoothese glossiest black you can as a base layer. To me, you can actually see where this mirror paint does a much better job of reflecting light(notice the reflections are sharper, not defused like the vallejo), but achieve this without filling in texture(rough surfaces reflect that texture, but the reflections are still sharp-ish). Personally, I'm rather impressed with how they look, but as with most products, there are limitations to what they can do.
Hi Emil, having worked with this for about 2 months now, the wood needs to be sealed if you want a good effect. Furthermore, if you want a true mirror effect, you need a completely smooth, non porous surface with no imperfections. Hope this helps
If you watch Stuart Semple's video about using Mirrorest Mirror, it is best to apply it with a soft brush rather than air brushing it, not only practically but it's safety too. It's a sulfur based paint. You can also see what kind of surfaces it works best on in said video.
Been wanting to start painting 40k again (havent since i was like 9) and youve inspired me to do get crazy with metallic and chrome themes for my first project :D
Reflectivity comes almost entirely from a surface’s roughness on a microscopic level. Even when planed flat, on a nano scale a piece of wood is waaay too rough for this paint to be as effective as on a a flatter surface where this paint dries with a smoother surface structure than the other ‘metal’ paints.
Feels like this paint has its uses, but for very specific things. like the surface of a "mirror shield". or maybe the blade of a certain weapon. might also be good to use for edging silver plates after you use an ink on them.
In the side by side at the 6:00 mark, the Mirror paint is definitely way smoother with tighter reflections, at least to my eye. That said, I feel like the Vallejo actually looks better overall as you get a better contrast with more shadowed areas,. at least when doing the entire model. I suppose the mirror paint on only specific parts would win though.
What did we learn from this video: Lection 1: Do not paint over the most glossy/shining paint you want to achieve. Its so glossy because of its surface structure (very fine compared to matt which is more rough). Lection 2 (learned by reading the comments): Watch out what you are using and how its used best. (cure time/ dry time etc) Over all you made another interesting video, and I think I want do know more about this paint ^_^
This video helped inspire me to start a Necron army. I've always liked them and I've always thought it'd be cool to make them look like the T800 from the Terminator movies. I am at the point where nearly all my models and bases are done and I'm ready to start painting. I plan on using a black base coat, with the Molotow Liquid Chrome sprayed over top ( thinned down). I plan on using Mephiston Red and Angron Red Clear for all the Necrons' energy effects. For the shoulder pads I think I'm going to mix Lead Belcher and the Molotow mixed for a darker sheen. I plan on painting the weapons with Lead Belcher as well, with Balthsar Gold for details and hoses. I explained things in detail hoping that you might personally read and respond with critiques or guidance in this adventure. It's been over a decade since I last painted a mini and I have some rust/ bad habbits to get rid of. I think I've watched all of your videos now and I've tried to absorb all the advice you've given, but I'm just curious maybe there's something obvious you see that I don't with my plan. Anyway, really enjoy your channel and art, thanks for sharing.
One thing Stuart Semple is good at is marketing, that's for sure. My advice for ultimate chrome is to buy a refill of Molotow chrome and use it either with a brush or airbrush. It's perfect.
When the mini was painted with just the mirror paint, it looked like those cheap robot action figures from my childhood. Somehow those were so reflective. Wonder if those were painted with some harsh chemical paints like they used to back in the day.
He did not base his minis with Gloss Black that's why and he also USED a FLAT wood to showcase the paint which is the worst way that you can do on a chrome paint.... Also, in general, chrome paints require 24 hours to cure then you gotta buff it to remove the small particles to show the mirror effect...
Try giving it a day to ensure volitiles have evaporated and seal over it with a clear coat to give your normal paints a base they'll stick to. I want to go find some of that mirror paint and try playing with it now.
You need to start with a gloss black basecoat. You can also prime the non-mentalic areas with a matte varnish to help it stick and coat the metal with a gloss hardcoat after the glazing too
I would still look into using that Mirror paint, it is nice that it showed up for you. I was reluctant to buy because I have had stuff not show up when I order it from a website. I would just use it as a final for parts that you want to be just "chrome."
It would also have trouble sticking to the surface, buuuut.... you could let it dry a bit and move the colour pigments in place, when the colour isn't so fluid anymore. I assume still a tricky process, but better than acrylics.
@@Gargboss I think oil paint should bond well... its surface tension is lower and oil is hydrophobic (non-polar). The mirror finish looks hydrophobic (water-based paint doesn't stick well).
Just started painting my first mini in over a decade probably. Spent 2 hours base coating one armour panel on a knight and loving it because of my inner OCD 🤣
Love Stuart! I use a lot of his products, but just back got into miniatures. Thanks for the vid, can't wait to play with his pigments now! With a lot of Stuart's pigments its best to use the base he offers.
I might just coat a large pile my unpainted dnd minis with that, get them on some flat black bases and just treat them like normal game pieces. Thats a seriously slick paint there.
tbf these mirror paint not only have a lot of preparation required ( primer, polish, high gloss), you wasn't suppose to hand paint anything afterwards, even airbrush you still need specific transparent color to not ruined the shine
I saw on GreenStuffWorlds instagram that they have a similar product out now too. If I recall the post the mention it doesnt mix with other paints and dissolves any paint under it and on top of it. Pretty sure you would have to polish it as well for the full mirror-like effect. Really love the video all the same! I really want to use this paint for a Chromium the Mutable inspired dragon mini.
Super even and polished surface definitely is the key to get the best metallic/mirror effect! The rough wooden plank was really the worst surface you could have chosen^^ You should polish a surface with some polishing sponges and try it again.
I usually use Spaz chrome. I would assume this is similar. Make sure to use a very glossy black undercoat before spraying. The smoother the finish this goes on the shinier it will be. Also the Spaz Stix has to be buffed after you spray it. This may be need that also.
Hey I’m sort of new to this hobby and I was wondering if you have any tips on doing army painting on the go because sometimes I want to bring my stuff to a friend’s house and I haven’t really figured out a good way to bring my paint and brushes and all the other stuff with me.
this could make some seriously cool knights, i never would have thought. You should do the whole model and ink it a tiny bit and do the details. I think it would look awesome!
I learned from the old testors chrome paint (not the chrome trim one). Do a flat black prime or white if looking for a brighter finish (its not very much of a difference though), Then airbrush a thin coat of clear then a flat clear (it helps a lot to make the colors you use after actually stick) still though don't touch if you can help it. then add a clear topcoat...should solve your color issues
Thanks again Dungeon Classics for the awesome 75mm figures and sponsoring this video! Check out their kickstarter: bit.ly/3mmp5U4
Many thanks for your coverage, it's really appreciated!
Hey Emil! It´s David. Thanks a lot! You made a great work summing up our goals!
Quick question I used to paint ages ago with paints from Reaper Miniatures Blue Steel & Green Steel I used the Green to paint one of my Bretoniann Green Knights both colours are discontinued does anyone else make metallic colours ie Blue/Green ?
Emil! Black Gloss base coat, and apply it in 2 layers :D
@@zaynevanday142 try scale 75
I'd say that the difference between the Mirror and Vallejo _is_ huge. Perhaps not in person, but through a camera, the Mirror paint looks spectacular!
I agree, the airbrushed mirror looks like polished metal. The other two look like unpolished cast metals.
yeah I came looking for this comment because I thought the exact same thing. Its really defined in the shoulder just how much of a difference it is sheen wise.
It's crazy he doesn't see the difference
Man! Bro, I'm sitting here thinking the exact same thing! I'm like, "Dude, we can see a very clear reflection of your finger and even your fingernail at points in that sword as he moved his finger!" So, not to be disrespectful but, maybe bro needs glasses. They made a world of difference in my eyesight. Just a thought.
He didn't prep the models correctly either, you need a gloss black prime, not matte.
if you want a true mirror effect, you need to start with a high-gloss (ideally black) surface...
Was just going to comment this, I paint mandalorian helmets and high gloss is a MUST under metallics in general
thats not how these work.
If this is like the mirror effect nail polishes that exist that wouldn't be needed. The paint pulls together and forms a mirror flat surface by itself through surface tension.
@@WhichDoctor1 it can't do that if the surface below is too rough. This is still really thin paint. Gloss primer makes a huge difference for any metallic paint.
@@UnvarnishedTarnished how do u do it? Or what fo i have to look up for it
The urge to just mirror spray my whole army and calling them "Chromeboys"
Could largely work for eldar or necron without even being out of place
WITNESSED!!!
@@michaelsorensen7567 grey knights..?
could you argue it’s 3 or more colours? because a mirror finish like that will reflect colours from all around making it technically hundreds of different colours.
I am planning on repainting my entire necron army in this.
You need to apply it to a non-porous surface. Thats why your wood block test didnt appear as reflective.
And the miniature wasn't based in gloss black as well.. I also feel like he did not wait for it to "cure", he just painted the minis as soon as the paint "dried". Sometimes, you must buff after the 24 hour cure time to remove the small dust particles then it will show the mirror like finish...
@@vasili1207 wow, aren't you lovely.
@@BGLoscar yeah the instructions on that paint is to allow for at least 24 hours up to 48 hours to fully dry before doing anything with it and the first thing you do with it should be applying another coat. It definitely doesn't have the 10-20 minute drying time that we are used to as miniature painters.
@@vasili1207 yes, it's required by law 😆
I'd highly recommend checking out how WWII scale aircraft modelers do bare metal to understand why this was not a valid test. These paints (and the ever ubiquitous Alcad metals) require a super smooth surface. Generally you polish the bare plastic, apply a gloss black primer, polish the primer, THEN apply the paint. That's how you get the mirror finish.
There's a discernable difference in the shot between Vallejo and the Mirror paint. Its subtle but it IS shinier. Giving me ideas. Also bonus points for supporting Semple and coincidentally giving a paint drenched middle finger to Anish Kapoor (if ya don't know google Semple vs Kapoor)
I would even go so far to call it a massive difference, the Vallejo one diffuses the light waaaaaay more then the Mirror paint which looks way more "crisp".
Is it a like 20 dollar difference tho?
Good to know there’s other people who know about the feud between Semple and Kapoor
Yaaas! 🖕suck it, Kapoor!!
I would add that it also looks visibly much smoother on camera, wheras the Vallejo looked obviously sprayed (comparing both airbrushed).
You need a polished surface to get a mirror finish. Spraying an incredibly rough material like wood cannot give you a reflection.
The best chrome I know is Molotow Liquid Chrome. It literally put a mirror on my minis. Use with black glossy undercoat. Give a week to dry (maybe less would also work, but better save than sorry) before putting a gloss varnish (or anything else) on top of it. It is alcohol based, so you can use ethanol for cleaning (the airbrush). Comes in a pen or a refill pack. Pen can be opened (do not tip the metal ball in your airbrush). You can also draw with the pen on your mini, but it will be thick and reduce detail (paint needs to be thick for mirror effect in this case).
yeah Molotow Liquid Chrome is great but does need a little extra care for best results.
From what I've seen it's *super* delicate, look at it wrong and loses the chrome effect, and it looks like most varnishes do the same to it. That's problematic for minis. Here's a video on this: ua-cam.com/video/vd83iJkjIm8/v-deo.html
@@vasili1207 Not necessarily. There are plenty of reflective surfaces that could be considered mirrors or mirror-like when you get into fantasy or cyber miniatures.
Molotow is for tagging, not minis. 😂
@@vasili1207 wrong. Sigvald the magnificent by GW literally wears mirrored armour and has a bodyguard called the mirror guard who do too.
A regular silver paint wouldn't work with them
molotow liquid chrome refill is the most crisp i've ever seen.
True, specially on top of a high gloss black.. You can see your self.
Yeah Molotow Liquid Chrome is incredible - way better than this stuff. Just don't use a regular gloss varnish on it. I've used Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear Coat and that seemed to work well.
Yup. Molotow makes an epic mirror finish.
@@Digitalfiendscom the one I've heard that works well is an Alclad one: ua-cam.com/video/vd83iJkjIm8/v-deo.html
Alclad gives spectacular results but, from my understanding, is exclusively for airbrush use while Molotow can be used with brush or airbrush.
Mirror paint has to cure. It’s right on the directions.
Was the first thing I thought.
How do you cure it?
@@rav3style let it sit for more than 24 hours
@@chrisgreene5941 ohh yeah that omission probably messed up the test
that looks like straight up mercury
I was hoping this comment would be higher up. Guess not many people have seen actual mercury nowadays.
@@miguelengelhardt4687 tbh it's been a while since I've seen mercury in a picture let alone in person. Just sorta registered as that mentally.
I was going to say this also. Last time I saw mercury was in an old thermostat.
@@daviddickson412 I feel really guilty. As an electrician, for years I had been chucking old thermostats in the garbage without thinking. Of course they all had a little ampoule of mercury in them. Oops.
Acrylics over enamels is definitely a bad idea. Maybe that's what this video is really about, how not to employ certain techniques.
Just think if he used oil over that it would probably work really well
@@coololdtimer Yep with some odourless thinner it would have been good.
Yeah, I think even if he had painted the non metal parts first and then applied the mirror last (and not tried to paint over it) it might have had a better chance of working. Or just used enamels/oils rather than water based for the whole thing.
I quite liked the mirror paint.
Was concerned why the paint wasn't sticking and checked Stuart's shop. In the description of mirror paint is written to leave it dry for 24h before touching - maybe that was the problem? Alternatively I would gloss varnish before next step.
But if you don't try you won't know!
For people who want to get the mirroriest mirror paint for their minis - you helped them skip a step of experimentation! :)
This is typical of all solvent/laquer paints. They need gas time, otherwise the gasses released while it cures will dissolve and ruin whatever you put over it. The issue he was having with adhesion of his glazing is also typical of these hyper chrome or metal surfaces, its the polar opposite of primer. Shit just does not stick well which is why you'd want to use this only really on its own or a stickier candy. Stuff is amazing for Models and Gunpla, dogshit for Miniatures.
very underwhelming video, nice display of the reflective paint, but trying to apply shades and other paint directly over a metallic paint without using a varnish before on those region, what did you expect ?
this feel like a rushed video.
@@Superrugdr I think he just wanted to play with those paints and not do a deep comparison video. It's still nice to see that mirror paint don't clog up details
@@jeffbushey9885 It can work on miniatures too.. Just need a high gloss black which he didn't do that's why he failed to achieve the right outcome.. On a different note, as someone who also paints GUNPLA, I am so happy that someone like you KNOWS the difference between DRY TIME and CURE TIME.. A lot of the people in a Gunpla group that I am in DO NOT understand that and they only wait for like 10 minutes to an hour to apply the next coat then later they're surprised about why the paint is showing some defects..
@@nataliakapusciok4198 When I tried to achieve the mirror effect on my Gunpla, I based it first with Gloss Black, then painted it with Spastix chrome, waited for the 24H cure time then buffed it then I got the mirror chrome result..
YAAAAAAAS. I love Semple's paints. The rivalry with Kapoor is great.
Finished product he's not happy with, still better then most of our mini's
Lol I was just thinking that it looked pretty good
This hurt me.
Yeah he’s being overly critical. Looks as mirror 🪞 as it gets.
Yeah idk you might be the one being over critical not him it clearly didn't work out and was super messy. He's a really awesome painter but he was pretty open that it went wrong this time. I bet most files can atleast keep it clean looking could be wrong tho idk for sure obviously.
Talk to yourself
You really need to start with a smooth high gloss finish in order for that stuff to come off like a mirror.
The video results are probably different than seeing the minis IRL, but the mirror paint definitely looks noticeably better to me.
It's all about the under coat. Super gloss black for best results!
I've been working on a Void Dragon lately, that I used the Molotow Chrome pens on. You can open the pen and dump out the "paint" it appears to be even more reflective than this mirror paint. I'd be curious to see you revisit this and compare the two. thanks Emil! Cool video.
that mirror paint on the pauldrons is drop dead gorgeous.
I use the Molotw pens, ten times easier to use, gives a very good effect for what you need.
pound for pound 100x better as well
I can shoot it through an airbrush without thinning.
And its cheaper and easier to find.
I use that too. Super shiny, not too durable though. The Alclad varnish seems to help but hurts the shinyness a bit.
Want to teu That Paint, the reviews are great
@@TheAegisClaw - you have to let it cure. (4-7 days depending on temp) then it hardens. You dont want to use ANY varnish on it, its pretty durable, and no matter which on eyou use, any varnish will ruin the finish of it. The varnish adds a layer that changes the mirror refelction to a diffused one
@@DismemberTheAlamo yeah mine always fog as soon as I touch em... guess I need to let it cure for a couple days
gotta love when i'm actually interested in the sponsors because they're so incredibly relevant to tge rest of your content
I've been looking to pick up some of Stuart Semple's paints to see how they'd work on minis. Ive seen some people use his "pinkest pink" and "black 3.0" but you're the first i've seen using the mirror paint.
Same, I’d like to know how well the glow paints stick.
@@HuntsForge what's awesome is he sells it in a powdered form as well so you can use your own base to mix it in. I have a cousin who uses them for internal screens in a vehicle or if he wants a glowing effect say coming from underneath a gorget in a chaise marine shining on a face.
Also makes an incredible addition to glowing effects you are already painting.
I've picked up black 2.0 and the glow on the dark pigments. The black is easily objectively darker than any mini paint I own, but it was difficult to work with, especially to get a finish that didn't show brush strokes, and it's very matte. It does work well for black cloth though (painted Darth Vader a cloak with it and the it's weaknesses in the finish became strengths).
The glow in the dark also did not work with minis. Pigment was much to coarse for me to get a smooth paint but that could have also been a lack of mixing machine and using liquitex mediums. What I did discover though is that as a wash it works fan-freaken-tastic as a way to add glowing runes on to etched surfaces. I used it in abase for a cracked rock effect with green magical energy coming through it and I was blown away. The biggest drawback however is that without it glowing it looks completely different.
Whoops, I have black 3.0, just checked the bottle.
Can you direct me to videos that use pinkest pink on minis?
Interesting! If this paint is anything like the Alclad II chrome paint, you need a gloss black base to work from and then apply the mirror paint in thin coats with your airbrush. I've had some success using the Alclad paints on minis and then carefully applying Tamiya Clear colours ontop for a candy gloss effect.
Emil spray on to a high gloss black base for the mirror finish for best results
Great video! Your English is really great and I love hearing you talk - you have awesome presentation skills and humor! Merry Christmas to you, brother! 🎄🎅
The fact that the mirror paint is a solvent-based paint might be why the other paints aren't sticking as well to it
I would highly recommend spray on top of a gloss black then seal after. That’s how all automotive chromes and mirror paints work to achieve a shiny reflective finish.
I think for the best results try polishing the plastic surface first then use a gloss black base and I think it would come out perfect.
That's how it should be done anyways... He did not use a Gloss Black base that's why he failed to achieve the mirror chrome effect..
@@BGLoscar indubitably!
I have had issues with paints running on high gloss due to the lack of porous surface. A cheat is a very thin layer of transparent gloss varnish over the top of your initial layer of undercoat, and then again over the parts of the mini you only want to add a few light touches of colour to.
I absolutely love how Vallejo Metal Colour flows out the airbrush, it's a real pleasure and so easy to clean up too! I'm fairly certain everybody knows there are better metallic paints that are solvent-based or just not acrylic.
Awww yes! I love Stuart Semples' paints for my miniatures. Like Black 3.0 and their Heavy Metals. So glad I can see if this is any good. On the fence with it.
I found Black 3.0 not so great, especially if airbrushed. It's more powdery than I'd like. The other paints are really great though!
@@stevewagstaff7250 odd, I'd be interested in knowing how you applied it. I don't remember how I did this tank, but I don't think it's powdery. I especially love it used as a primer, because it just sucks the gloss away, so I don't need to buy a matte range.
I'll have to see, cause I've got a small squad of units I want to be matte stealth. So I'll keep this in mind. Maybe I brushed last time.
@@PhyKi It was a straight airbrush onto a base coat. I haven't been the only one to have this issue with it. A UK streamer/painter I know had the same issue, and had the pigment powder rub off the model in places.
just another thumbs up for the funky and soulful music you pick as the background. it’s great to see not every miniature painter listening to metal or rock.
Honestly this seems perfect for models with a ton of flat surfaces, mainly gunpla(Which I'd love to see you try and take a stab at painting!). Looks great though!
I recently painted up the Indomitus box necrons with this mirror paint. I recommend using glossy primer as the mirror paint works better on smoother surfaces. Also GW's contrast paints work well over top and can provide cool colored metallic effects depending on what you're going for. Lastly I would suggest a protective layer of gloss varnish over top to prevent wearing the chrome paint off.
I do 40k painting a lot so I wouldn’t really get much mileage on wargaming, because I don’t exactly need super reflective silver. Gold might be cool for Custodes. BUT, I also do Star Wars Legion and customize Star Wars Black Series action figures and this paint, with the proper preparation, would be perfect for The Mandalorian in his Beskar armor.
Lmao, I literally just got this in the mail two days ago planning to use it to candy coat my 1k Sons. Glad to see you're spreading the word about this paint, it's great stuff for certain applications!
The best way I've found to apply it is two thin coats (as always), that tends to get the brush strokes out and amps up the shine. I also let it dry for 24 hours before working with anything on top of it.
As for why it's not as mirrory on the wood, Stuart Semple has a video about that where he puts it on a variety of surfaces. He mentions that you should seal any porous surface first, and shows what it looks like on sealed wood vs unsealed wood.
One could say you just made chromecast eternal’s.
Emil, I just finished a GW Nemesis Dreadknight that i completely covered with AK Extreme Metal Polished Aluminium. You need a very fine primer (Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500) and a perfectultra gloss black (Tamiya, Mr Hobby). Then the surface will be mirror-like. The best coverage of color, THAT STICKS on the metal and KEEPS the shine are Tamiya transparent colors. I made many parts in trans red/metal/chrome. Opaque colors have the tendency you described.
Can we see more Semple paints on miniatures? Tempted to try a noise marine using his Pinkest Pink
I've tried to use it, but the pigment particles aren't small enough, it's like using a cheap dollar value paint sadly
I've used, Gold, silver, mirror, Black 3.0 and LIT from Stuart. Really like the black 3.0 for my nightbringer. Lit is fun for the necrons too
The mirror quality and durability of the coat is better suited for creating or replacing chrome on toys. That's where I've seen the most excitement for the product among my various hobby communities.
“Do not ingest” like I get it, we’ve all seen what happens in The Matrix and it makes that cool dial up internet sound too
Tell that miniac
The guy who invented this paint, Stuart Simple, has a video explaining the proper way to use this to full effect. He also mentions it has a very long drying time, needing up to 12+ hours to dry, it should also be applied normally over a gloss black, and in 2 coats. Either way this video is informative as hell because atm there is only ONE other video of a mini Painter using it on Necrons so multiple perspectives is really nice!
Please check out the lit glow in the dark stuff these guys do, would love to see it work for some power swords, necrons or some ghosts have no idea what to do with pigments though.
That would be absolutely sick... Its a powder base you can mix into stuff too, we used it on some costume parts and it really... Really glows
I've seen the mirror paint used a few times on things my wife has made. You need to start with a high glossy surface, and it needs to set for 24-48 hours. I wouldn't use it as a base coat at all. But its also a totally different kind of paint
In order to get a real shine out of any of these paints they need to go over a high gloss black, glossier the better
So if I'm understanding right the best course of action would be to apply super glossy black primer, apply the paint, let it dry, apply a gloss varnish, and then continue with other paints?
@@Lucillevt4011 Yes, though regular gloss would likely kill the mirror effect unless very light and careful dose. Some brands, like Alclad, sell special clear coats (aqua gloss) specifically to help mitigate this. Chrome coating (or mirror coating) is pretty hard to and pretty unforgiving if you make a mistake, but man it's great when you pull it off.
From gunpla modeling experience, glossy smooth black base coat, then layer on Alclad Silver, and that is a true metallic paint job.
Silver Surfer wants to know your location.
When using chrome to make clear colors pop on gunpla instead of thinner using clear gloss helps the color become clear but also stick to the glossy surface below
Try a glossy rattle can base. May boost is reflectiveness?
i'm fairly certain that the mirror paint is made to have a much smoother surface, which would mean that there is less area for other paints to grip on to after. I wonder if it is possible to premix some pigments into it before applying it to the mini.
Mirror can take a solid 24hrs to be properly dry in my opinion. Obviously you can get away with working with it sooner but I always find the longer I leave it the more success I have with getting the layers to stick. Great video as always!
Thx for the heads up
I'm really not familiar with miniature painting, so sorry if this is a silly question, but is there any reason you couldn't do a clear coat between layers as is often popular for scale modeling?
This video comes from the heavens! Just yesterday I decided to paint my Chaos demons shiny and chrome to make them look like beasts from an 80s metal album cover. I thought about picking up Mirror, so thanks, you saved me good money! Gonna go with Vallejo now :)
Take care!
Holy hell, what kind of solutions is that? It's like 80% done by the time he coat them for the first time.
that mirror paint would work wonders not as a base coat but as a finisher for large flat surfaces
One of the most commonly used “chrome” paints in scale modeling is from Molotow. They are most commonly found in paint pen style and also can be found in bottle form. I’ve used it for chrome on several cars and motorcycle models and it’s pretty good. At least as reflective as the Mirror paint you tested.
if you want to layer hydrophobic paints like this with paints that are water-based, you have to reprime between the conflicting layers (spray on varnish can do the job; brush-on varnish will probably also work). if you do this, you can probably use this mirror paint (haven't tried this particular paint myself) with army painter or citadel base coats, washes, etc and they'll behave like or close to normal
If I have trouble with glazes sticking, I find a small brush-tip worth of washing-up liquid in the paint makes it bond and not bubble up.
Mirror might be useful for doing trim after painting the rest if you are looking for that super polished look. swords and necklaces that you want to look magical could still be un-shaded to maintain that super chrome.
I have this mirror paint and I knew as soon as you tried to use it as a base coat it wouldn't work, I would only use this as a coat of paint on its own with minimal shading on it. so only on things you want to look very shiny and new and maybe apply an oil wash via a thin brush in specific areas.
There have been a few mirror effect nail polishes for a while and some of them are really effective. I'm honestly surprised there aren't more like this in the hobby world and that this one isn't more effective.
There are a few, as it as many as needed. They are used a lot by the model aircraft folks for high polish aluminium skinned planes. They have titanium, aluminium, blues sleep and other colours all in lawyers with unhealthy vapours like the one in the video.
Predictive text doh. Steel not sleep, laquer not lawyer. In not it.
This is some straight up wizardry right here! Merry Christmas mate
Application by brush looked really easy - I wonder what other colors would work like ?
The chrome looks cool on its own. I loved it when you added just the red
Vallejo = brushed metal
Mirror = polished metal
That's the difference between the 2. Each has it's place it just depends on what you're looking for. Awesome video.
in my experiance you need to use a base of gloss black, them apply the chrome + the mirror effect will be on the pieces with no texture, that is why the wood piece with really work, you can try with pastic spoons, you will see the results using those.
Great video, love your content! cheers!
Those making suggestions about certain chrome/metallic paint products that produce more mirror finishes, keep in mind some of these are using binders and levelers mixed into the product(and these don't react well to being thinned further beyond a specified dilution with their associated/recommended solvents). Those types of paints are formulated to fill the finer surface textures to produce a more "out of the bottle" mirror finish. Once you get pass the fillers, you're left with the same basics of doing high polish finishes with metallics, which is to always start with the smoothese glossiest black you can as a base layer.
To me, you can actually see where this mirror paint does a much better job of reflecting light(notice the reflections are sharper, not defused like the vallejo), but achieve this without filling in texture(rough surfaces reflect that texture, but the reflections are still sharp-ish). Personally, I'm rather impressed with how they look, but as with most products, there are limitations to what they can do.
Hi Emil, having worked with this for about 2 months now, the wood needs to be sealed if you want a good effect.
Furthermore, if you want a true mirror effect, you need a completely smooth, non porous surface with no imperfections. Hope this helps
I got a bottle of the Mirror paint a couple months ago. Getting ready to use it on a Grey Knight Dreadknight diorama.
If you watch Stuart Semple's video about using Mirrorest Mirror, it is best to apply it with a soft brush rather than air brushing it, not only practically but it's safety too. It's a sulfur based paint. You can also see what kind of surfaces it works best on in said video.
Been wanting to start painting 40k again (havent since i was like 9) and youve inspired me to do get crazy with metallic and chrome themes for my first project :D
Reflectivity comes almost entirely from a surface’s roughness on a microscopic level. Even when planed flat, on a nano scale a piece of wood is waaay too rough for this paint to be as effective as on a a flatter surface where this paint dries with a smoother surface structure than the other ‘metal’ paints.
Feels like this paint has its uses, but for very specific things. like the surface of a "mirror shield". or maybe the blade of a certain weapon. might also be good to use for edging silver plates after you use an ink on them.
Yeah that’s really genuine of you
Wow, another video before Christmas, you're the best Emil. Happy holidays to you and your family.
In the side by side at the 6:00 mark, the Mirror paint is definitely way smoother with tighter reflections, at least to my eye. That said, I feel like the Vallejo actually looks better overall as you get a better contrast with more shadowed areas,. at least when doing the entire model. I suppose the mirror paint on only specific parts would win though.
What did we learn from this video:
Lection 1: Do not paint over the most glossy/shining paint you want to achieve.
Its so glossy because of its surface structure (very fine compared to matt which is more rough).
Lection 2 (learned by reading the comments):
Watch out what you are using and how its used best. (cure time/ dry time etc)
Over all you made another interesting video, and I think I want do know more about this paint ^_^
This video helped inspire me to start a Necron army. I've always liked them and I've always thought it'd be cool to make them look like the T800 from the Terminator movies. I am at the point where nearly all my models and bases are done and I'm ready to start painting. I plan on using a black base coat, with the Molotow Liquid Chrome sprayed over top ( thinned down). I plan on using Mephiston Red and Angron Red Clear for all the Necrons' energy effects. For the shoulder pads I think I'm going to mix Lead Belcher and the Molotow mixed for a darker sheen. I plan on painting the weapons with Lead Belcher as well, with Balthsar Gold for details and hoses. I explained things in detail hoping that you might personally read and respond with critiques or guidance in this adventure. It's been over a decade since I last painted a mini and I have some rust/ bad habbits to get rid of. I think I've watched all of your videos now and I've tried to absorb all the advice you've given, but I'm just curious maybe there's something obvious you see that I don't with my plan. Anyway, really enjoy your channel and art, thanks for sharing.
You have to have a perfectly smooth surface to be reflective or mirror. Try spraying it on the back of a small piece of clear acrylic
One thing Stuart Semple is good at is marketing, that's for sure. My advice for ultimate chrome is to buy a refill of Molotow chrome and use it either with a brush or airbrush. It's perfect.
When the mini was painted with just the mirror paint, it looked like those cheap robot action figures from my childhood. Somehow those were so reflective. Wonder if those were painted with some harsh chemical paints like they used to back in the day.
They use some kind of plating on toys etc.
He did not base his minis with Gloss Black that's why and he also USED a FLAT wood to showcase the paint which is the worst way that you can do on a chrome paint.... Also, in general, chrome paints require 24 hours to cure then you gotta buff it to remove the small particles to show the mirror effect...
Try giving it a day to ensure volitiles have evaporated and seal over it with a clear coat to give your normal paints a base they'll stick to. I want to go find some of that mirror paint and try playing with it now.
You need to start with a gloss black basecoat. You can also prime the non-mentalic areas with a matte varnish to help it stick and coat the metal with a gloss hardcoat after the glazing too
I would still look into using that Mirror paint, it is nice that it showed up for you. I was reluctant to buy because I have had stuff not show up when I order it from a website. I would just use it as a final for parts that you want to be just "chrome."
I would be curious to see the effect of using it with oilpaint washes.
It would also have trouble sticking to the surface, buuuut.... you could let it dry a bit and move the colour pigments in place, when the colour isn't so fluid anymore. I assume still a tricky process, but better than acrylics.
@@Gargboss I think oil paint should bond well... its surface tension is lower and oil is hydrophobic (non-polar). The mirror finish looks hydrophobic (water-based paint doesn't stick well).
Just started painting my first mini in over a decade probably. Spent 2 hours base coating one armour panel on a knight and loving it because of my inner OCD 🤣
Love Stuart! I use a lot of his products, but just back got into miniatures. Thanks for the vid, can't wait to play with his pigments now!
With a lot of Stuart's pigments its best to use the base he offers.
I was thinking of trying the mirror paint myself and you saved me the effort
I might just coat a large pile my unpainted dnd minis with that, get them on some flat black bases and just treat them like normal game pieces. Thats a seriously slick paint there.
tbf these mirror paint not only have a lot of preparation required ( primer, polish, high gloss), you wasn't suppose to hand paint anything afterwards, even airbrush you still need specific transparent color to not ruined the shine
I have to ask, where did you get the drawers/racks that you have on the table behind you? I am searching for something like this for ages!
Hobbyzone
Just found it! www.hobbyzone.pl/en/
@@SquidmarMiniatures thank you sir! It is amazing :)
I saw on GreenStuffWorlds instagram that they have a similar product out now too. If I recall the post the mention it doesnt mix with other paints and dissolves any paint under it and on top of it. Pretty sure you would have to polish it as well for the full mirror-like effect.
Really love the video all the same! I really want to use this paint for a Chromium the Mutable inspired dragon mini.
Super even and polished surface definitely is the key to get the best metallic/mirror effect! The rough wooden plank was really the worst surface you could have chosen^^ You should polish a surface with some polishing sponges and try it again.
I usually use Spaz chrome. I would assume this is similar. Make sure to use a very glossy black undercoat before spraying. The smoother the finish this goes on the shinier it will be. Also the Spaz Stix has to be buffed after you spray it. This may be need that also.
Hey I’m sort of new to this hobby and I was wondering if you have any tips on doing army painting on the go because sometimes I want to bring my stuff to a friend’s house and I haven’t really figured out a good way to bring my paint and brushes and all the other stuff with me.
Have you thought of adding a layer of varnish on the chrome before shading?
this could make some seriously cool knights, i never would have thought. You should do the whole model and ink it a tiny bit and do the details. I think it would look awesome!
I learned from the old testors chrome paint (not the chrome trim one). Do a flat black prime or white if looking for a brighter finish (its not very much of a difference though), Then airbrush a thin coat of clear then a flat clear (it helps a lot to make the colors you use after actually stick) still though don't touch if you can help it. then add a clear topcoat...should solve your color issues
I use the molotov liquid chrome it's like a pen where you can extract the paint from pressing the tip of the pen, it's very cool and shiny