Another great video by one of the best lutherie teachers around. I've no personal experience but I've heard he is a damned good luthier too. Thanks Ted.
refreshing to watch a youtube luthier that's IS a master craftsman and is NOT a purist. bravo! BTW, that quasi-knot in the fret-board....and a poplar neck. hmmmm, i remember using that stuff only as drawer bottoms on cabinetry.
I’m also restoring one of these. I’m leaving the ladder braces and the top loader bridge. Mine needs a neck reset and a refret and the bridge reglued though.
After watching several of your videos and really enjoying your craftmanship....I've decided you need to a day off to visit a manicurist.😄😉 Please don't take your shoes off.🥴🤯🤯 Great vids keep up the good work!
A Harmony 165 like this came with a pickguard. The fact that you cannot see where it was glued- there is no "ghost" suggests that the top has been refinished at some stage- probably when it got those cheapo tuners.
Cool video thanks for sharing. There is a company that completely rebuilds these old guitars. They put Scalloped Bracing n them. They use to have a UA-cam Channel. But I lost contact with them somehow. These guitars can sound great.
Great as Always! Question: One of the advantages to using steam is easy removal of glue from a messy dovetail from my understanding. Do you get that advantage with the heat stick? Thanks.
Man I would just like to say, of the many, many luthiers on UA-cam your videos and techniques for repair are by far the most professional and the advice you give is invaluable thanks for all the information!
Keep up the good work fella, dont listen to the trolls out there, u are one of the best, been following u a long time, we need luthiers like u... Thanks for your kwnoledge and well doing... we salute u .. greetings from southern Spain...Thank u Sir!
So I find that the basic wood of many of these guitars is very comparable to high dollar guitars of today, but the frets are always super low, and the joints are always badly/heavily varnished.
I think Mahogany top guitars are less susceptible to climatic conditions because I have not seen any mahogany top guitar repairs online.. And also this guitar held upto 60 years for a neck reset.. Nice video..
This was a particularly interesting and refreshing video based on an economy guitar that is worth repairing. In contrast, I watched someone on UA-cam this week destroy a guitar and say, “Oh well, it was a cheap guitar anyway”, with multiple supportive comments from his subscribers. It is so nice to see you respecting and repairing an instrument instead of destroying one and laughing it off.
Thank you for showing us the Harmony repairs. I’m following! 🤓 Can you help me locate your video of the “Kung Fu” neck reset and the use of 1/4-20 threaded inserts in the heel? Thanks in advance. I’m working on a 1970s Japanese Epiphone with 1 bolt and 4 dowels and I cannot find your UA-cam video anymore
Really liking that non steam way of removing necks. I am going to try that next week or so. The steam method is so extremely messy. Thanks for the tip!
Nichrome post heaters need a wire loop; the return wire can either be more nichrome or a non-heating wire, and the wires need to be insulated from each other. Making them narrow, rigid and reliable sounds like an interesting research project. Back of a napkin calculations: to get 20W (80W per neck) from a 4" / 10cm of 22ga (~0.025" / 0.64mm) length of nichrome 60 (about 1 ohm/ft, or 0.33 ohm/10cm) requires 2.5V @ about 8A, so you could combine four of them in series with 10V at 8A (also 80W (of course)). Should be just barely doable from a sub-$100 0-30V 0-10A adjustable power supply but I would have to test it. If you wanted different amounts of heat in the front and back, the easiest way is to waste it in the air with separate lengths of nichrome wire.
I’m really looking forward to this series... although I own a Martin now, I started out with a Harmony when I was taking lessons in the 60s, and have fond memories of it.
I've seen these heat rods before and been thinking it would be good to get a dryer removal. But the size of the hole coupled with the scorching of the fretboard is two strikes against. That smaller wire with the dc generator sounds like a winner. That's a cool guitar, I just finished a '62 1213 arch top with a caved in top. Not broken but sunk with the braces loose. I'm thinking the mahogany will sound better than the birch on my unit. Really fat neck as well but that helps with no adjustable rod. Like I say every time I say anything at all, you do wonderful work.
13 minutes in: Dude dontcha know anything?! Of course steam is a dry heat!!🤪 (Now excuse me while I go and catch some moonbeams, tonight, so I can work on my tan!)
It’s interesting going back and watching these videos a year or two later. Here he’s just learning about the nichrome wire for neck resets where today he’s using his second set of styrofoam cutters.
Look up 3D printer heater cartridges. They heat up fast and even. You could find something to screw on a wire to them via a heater block they use or even make an aluminum transfer block thing. That way, you could get away with a really small hole, or multiple. They run on 12 or 24 volts. Not sure how many amps they use though. I think they would be an option if you wanted to make your own thing. I've used guitar string to clear out a nozzle, and the string will heat up to those temperatures pretty fast, so you might even be able to use a thick guitar string for the pocket.
For anyone reading this, I just pulled my first neck off of an early 1960s Harmony 162, very similar to this one in the video. The dovetail pocket was such that I needed to angle the drill bit backwards, i.e. pointing from the fret slot towards the heel of the neck, not forwards towards the neck-block. My first two drill holes were down into the neckblock. I recommend angling towards the heel of the neck to find the pocket. Only took me like 2 hours of heating with my lone foam-cutter heat stick that twoodfrd uses in later videos. I think dry heat is nice, but I did end up using a syringe of water to help to hydrate the hide glue some and finally it came free! Anyway, I'm going to reset the angle now. Good luck to any other aspiring repair-persons!
Funny how back in the old days this was considered a "garbage" guitar. Nowadays it would be considered a very decent acoustic. Shows how we have just accepted a decline in manufacturing quality as part of our desire for cheap prices. Tons of stuff today is not even worth repairing if it breaks. We just buy a new one. I can remember a time when stuff got repaired, even if it had no vintage or sentimental value. Maybe we go back a bit to those old days after this current pandemic ends.
I've got an H165 exactly like that. My date code reads: F. 121 H165. What does that mean? Action is so high you get a nose bleed trying to play. The body beautiful but needs restoration, which is cost prohibitive. I suppose something like this is analogous to restoring an old cheap car that will never be worth anything.
I modified a 55w soldering iron and used a 1/16" tungsten tig welding electrode. The tungsten stays straight under full heat from the iron. Tungsten melts at 3,422°C (6,192°F)
@@tristanoshea382 I have a lathe in the shop and I turned a copper slug to fit the iron with a 1/16" center bore to accept the electrode. It uses a tiny set screw to lock in the electrode.
Would you be familiar with the Harmony Model H6272 classical guitar? Someone has one in marketplace for $100.00 with the case. I'm just wondering if that would make a good first classical guitar. For me actually. Thanks.
I had the privilege of meeting the founder of Harmony guitars in 1987, Mr. Franklin Harmony. He was a very nice man, and very disgruntled that his guitars were considered cheap. Mr. Franklin Harmony passed away only 2 years later in 1989.
Sold a mid 60`s Gibson LG0 and got a same year Harmony H-165 and have to say I prefer the Harmony. I like the wider fingerboard on it and I think it sounds superior to the Gibson. (and at half the price) It doesn`t have the street cred of having ``Gibson``on the headstock but that doesn`t matter to me.
Hi ! Absolutely stunning 7 videos serie and work ! I do understand your arguments about the bridge, nevertheless you may have experiment and come up with a "kind of" Lowden type bridge, I dig them. Nonetheless, the final result and sound are gorgeous. Love your channel.
I have a 1984 (I think, from the serial no.) Hondo 28Hs - back from the lawsuit days, because it's a dead knockoff of a Martin D28 - which I'm positive needs a neck reset. The truss rod doesn't seem to do anything, and I'm fairly certain it's because it was bottomed out and is now compressing the wood, so I'll need to back that out and add some washers, most likely. Have you ever worked on those? Any gotchas to worry about when removing the neck? I'm thinking it will be a nice project to attempt, and since I got the guitar as a donation, if I screw it up completely, no harm done (it'll make for nice art in that case).
Can you tell the difference between Honduran and African Mahogany. I understand Gibson guitars made before 1965 were made of Honduran Mahogany, that I have read is superior in tonality to African Mahogany. What do you think?
It just dawned on me that like the precision factory built asian guitars, these harmony guitars from the 50's and 60's are technically better products than the sloppily made Gibsons or Martins made in a wasteful medieval fashion where several craftsmen spend silly amounts of time on a single guitar. Hyped and overpriced.
I think that Harmony is a really pretty guitar. I love the plain wood look like that. I've been binging all of these videos, going through a pretty rough time so this helps a lot. Thanks man!
I have an old Takamine Martin clone from (I’m fairly certain) the early 70’s … right down to copying headstock shape and using Martin’s iconic script for the brand lettering. It’s a little bit hammered … Cracked and caved in top on the upper bout from the neck joint and finger extension to the sound hole or very close to it. I would really love to dump money into materials and take a good clean shot at er’ … at the same time I know the cost to fix it would so far exceed its value but I really don’t care about that in the least … it’s so damned rad .
very cool as always! i've only done a few resets, and i recently got the heatstick myself and (on an old harmony as it happens) it worked great, no drama and no mess. so you near-missed the air pocket with the heatstick but it still did the job nicely, that's good to know. i wonder if some exploratory holes couldn't be drilled with a much smaller bit and when you "strike air" you'd follow with the fatter bit? are you going to refret? i will say i've discovered that on some of these with no rod and upbowed necks, that clamping the neck straight, clamping the (typically sprung-up) frets down and flooding the slots with CA had a side effect of dramatically straightening the neck, i suppose from regaining some fret slot compression.
Strictly speaking, your commentator who suggested steam is dry heat is sort of right, in that steam is the gaseous state of water. BUT most people speak of water vapour as steam, and that is what is created in 'steam' neck resets. It's wet!
Steam is a dry heat? Super heated steam is but even if a device can provide that steam, which I doubt, as soon as it reaches atmospheric pressure, it's pretty much wet! Very cool upload!
Great video, and I'm very curious of the name of the song you were playing at the end of the video , can you or anyone who watched it tell me the name I want to add it to my repoirtuar. Thank you
Great video! I laughed and cringed when you mentioned the viewer comment that steam was a "dry heat". Looking forward to seeing the next steps in repairing this Harmony.
My favourite type of guitar. I play a new Guild M-20 solid mahogany. I have seen Harmony solid mahogany come up now and then. They now tend to ask double what i am willing to pay! Will be great to watch these!
Ain't that the truth? You used to be able to pick these up at yard sales for dirt cheap, sometimes as low as twenty bucks. Now that they've developed a following, the nicer Harmony and Kay guitars have shot up in price.
so what are your thoughts on the solder gun method. ??? I'm in between. The steam has always been an issue with me. Also: why does the rod have to be so big? I tembered some small gauge copper for when I attempt it. The big hole left is a big issue with me. Think I'll get a guinea pig guitar and try it.
I don't know why Stumac went with the big rod. There's must have been a reason. The hole isn't usually too difficult to plug and it disappears completely in ebony. I'm excited to try this new method with 1/16" rods that will be covered by the fret.
Harmonys are great, they're my favorite cheap vintage guitars
I love those soundholes without the rosette.
Another great video by one of the best lutherie teachers around. I've no personal experience but I've heard he is a damned good luthier too. Thanks Ted.
refreshing to watch a youtube luthier that's IS a master craftsman and is NOT a purist. bravo!
BTW, that quasi-knot in the fret-board....and a poplar neck. hmmmm, i remember using that stuff only as drawer bottoms on cabinetry.
Oh yeah the poplar necks are pretty rough but nearly all these Kay and Harmony guitars have them
I’m also restoring one of these. I’m leaving the ladder braces and the top loader bridge. Mine needs a neck reset and a refret and the bridge reglued though.
After watching several of your videos and really enjoying your craftmanship....I've decided you need to a day off to visit a manicurist.😄😉 Please don't take your shoes off.🥴🤯🤯 Great vids keep up the good work!
"Steam is a dry heat!"
Oh wow. 😂🤣🤣
Beautiful guitar man
A Harmony 165 like this came with a pickguard. The fact that you cannot see where it was glued- there is no "ghost" suggests that the top has been refinished at some stage- probably when it got those cheapo tuners.
I needs those tuners for a resto.
If a neck turns you down for a date you know it's poplar.
Groan!
good one, dad
Cool video thanks for sharing. There is a company that completely rebuilds these old guitars. They put Scalloped Bracing n them. They use to have a UA-cam Channel. But I lost contact with them somehow. These guitars can sound great.
Thank you for the video!!
It rains a lot here, but it's a dry rain :p
Yeah steam is a dry heat. You can tell by all the moisture involved.
Great as Always! Question: One of the advantages to using steam is easy removal of glue from a messy dovetail from my understanding. Do you get that advantage with the heat stick? Thanks.
I don't usually have much of a problem getting the glue off. If it's really sticky I'll use vinegar, but usually it scrapes off fine.
twoodfrd thanks!
Please update your camera system to 4K, your content is too good to watch this blurry.
Never discredit super low tech. If it works, why not? No need to spend extra cash when simple, inexpensive does the same job!
steam is a "dry heat", man you have to love some comment section experts
Almost as stupid as suggesting to inject disinfectant.
this is as cool as building a lightsaber
LOL!
Man I would just like to say, of the many, many luthiers on UA-cam your videos and techniques for repair are by far the most professional and the advice you give is invaluable thanks for all the information!
Keep up the good work fella, dont listen to the trolls out there, u are one of the best, been following u a long time, we need luthiers like u... Thanks for your kwnoledge and well doing... we salute u .. greetings from southern Spain...Thank u Sir!
Wow! Before the foam cutters, love the evolution of the tech
Was great to see this! Just discovered these videos and it's awesome to come back and see the beginnings of what is now a regular on the channel
Perfect timing. I just pulled the neck off an old all mahogany parlor with a poplar neck and had to build the dovetail back up.
That’s wild. I litterally just sold one of these in Oshawa. Very cool guitar but the one I had was a disaster
So I find that the basic wood of many of these guitars is very comparable to high dollar guitars of today, but the frets are always super low, and the joints are always badly/heavily varnished.
I think Mahogany top guitars are less susceptible to climatic conditions because I have not seen any mahogany top guitar repairs online.. And also this guitar held upto 60 years for a neck reset.. Nice video..
This was a particularly interesting and refreshing video based on an economy guitar that is worth repairing. In contrast, I watched someone on UA-cam this week destroy a guitar and say, “Oh well, it was a cheap guitar anyway”, with multiple supportive comments from his subscribers. It is so nice to see you respecting and repairing an instrument instead of destroying one and laughing it off.
The only acceptable destruction of a cheap guitar would be by a beginner who is learning how to open it and repair it.
@@andsalomoni Like cadaver lab in med school; they die for a noble reason.
My dad had THE EXACT SAME GUITAR. First guitar I every picked up.
I used to own the same guitar too.
@BNS0892 Lol!
@BNS0892 thanks for the update, genius
Thank you for showing us the Harmony repairs. I’m following! 🤓
Can you help me locate your video of the “Kung Fu” neck reset and the use of 1/4-20 threaded inserts in the heel? Thanks in advance.
I’m working on a 1970s Japanese Epiphone with 1 bolt and 4 dowels and I cannot find your UA-cam video anymore
Scott St. Dennis I too was looking for that video recently ... i can swear i rewatched every video haha still can’t find it
ua-cam.com/video/D7daGYXk6Fo/v-deo.html
BILL S Cool! It was right under my nose the whole time! 😆
Really liking that non steam way of removing necks. I am going to try that next week or so.
The steam method is so extremely messy. Thanks for the tip!
After seeing your foam cutter method this old one is a lot less satiating
1961 all mahogany, single piece top?
The guitar I never knew I wanted. Awesome.
Are you planning on selling it afterwards? I would be interested
Did he say it was his? I figured it belongs to a client.
Nichrome post heaters need a wire loop; the return wire can either be more nichrome or a non-heating wire, and the wires need to be insulated from each other. Making them narrow, rigid and reliable sounds like an interesting research project.
Back of a napkin calculations: to get 20W (80W per neck) from a 4" / 10cm of 22ga (~0.025" / 0.64mm) length of nichrome 60 (about 1 ohm/ft, or 0.33 ohm/10cm) requires 2.5V @ about 8A, so you could combine four of them in series with 10V at 8A (also 80W (of course)). Should be just barely doable from a sub-$100 0-30V 0-10A adjustable power supply but I would have to test it. If you wanted different amounts of heat in the front and back, the easiest way is to waste it in the air with separate lengths of nichrome wire.
Thanks for the info! I believe Ian's using a non-heating return. I'm excited to give it a try.
I’m really looking forward to this series... although I own a Martin now, I started out with a Harmony when I was taking lessons in the 60s, and have fond memories of it.
I've seen these heat rods before and been thinking it would be good to get a dryer removal. But the size of the hole coupled with the scorching of the fretboard is two strikes against. That smaller wire with the dc generator sounds like a winner. That's a cool guitar, I just finished a '62 1213 arch top with a caved in top. Not broken but sunk with the braces loose. I'm thinking the mahogany will sound better than the birch on my unit. Really fat neck as well but that helps with no adjustable rod. Like I say every time I say anything at all, you do wonderful work.
13 minutes in:
Dude dontcha know anything?!
Of course steam is a dry heat!!🤪
(Now excuse me while I go and catch some moonbeams, tonight, so I can work on my tan!)
It’s interesting going back and watching these videos a year or two later. Here he’s just learning about the nichrome wire for neck resets where today he’s using his second set of styrofoam cutters.
Look up 3D printer heater cartridges. They heat up fast and even. You could find something to screw on a wire to them via a heater block they use or even make an aluminum transfer block thing. That way, you could get away with a really small hole, or multiple. They run on 12 or 24 volts. Not sure how many amps they use though. I think they would be an option if you wanted to make your own thing. I've used guitar string to clear out a nozzle, and the string will heat up to those temperatures pretty fast, so you might even be able to use a thick guitar string for the pocket.
For anyone reading this, I just pulled my first neck off of an early 1960s Harmony 162, very similar to this one in the video. The dovetail pocket was such that I needed to angle the drill bit backwards, i.e. pointing from the fret slot towards the heel of the neck, not forwards towards the neck-block. My first two drill holes were down into the neckblock. I recommend angling towards the heel of the neck to find the pocket.
Only took me like 2 hours of heating with my lone foam-cutter heat stick that twoodfrd uses in later videos. I think dry heat is nice, but I did end up using a syringe of water to help to hydrate the hide glue some and finally it came free! Anyway, I'm going to reset the angle now. Good luck to any other aspiring repair-persons!
Funny how back in the old days this was considered a "garbage" guitar. Nowadays it would be considered a very decent acoustic. Shows how we have just accepted a decline in manufacturing quality as part of our desire for cheap prices. Tons of stuff today is not even worth repairing if it breaks. We just buy a new one. I can remember a time when stuff got repaired, even if it had no vintage or sentimental value. Maybe we go back a bit to those old days after this current pandemic ends.
"Steam is a dry heat" LMAO
I've got an H165 exactly like that. My date code reads: F. 121 H165. What does that mean? Action is so high you get a nose bleed trying to play. The body beautiful but needs restoration, which is cost prohibitive. I suppose something like this is analogous to restoring an old cheap car that will never be worth anything.
I modified a 55w soldering iron and used a 1/16" tungsten tig welding electrode. The tungsten stays straight under full heat from the iron. Tungsten melts at 3,422°C (6,192°F)
sounds like a great idea. curious how you modified your iron to accept the 1/16” electrode?
@@tristanoshea382 I have a lathe in the shop and I turned a copper slug to fit the iron with a 1/16" center bore to accept the electrode. It uses a tiny set screw to lock in the electrode.
Would you be familiar with the Harmony Model H6272 classical guitar? Someone has one in marketplace for $100.00 with the case. I'm just wondering if that would make a good first classical guitar. For me actually. Thanks.
I had the privilege of meeting the founder of Harmony guitars in 1987, Mr. Franklin Harmony. He was a very nice man, and very disgruntled that his guitars were considered cheap. Mr. Franklin Harmony passed away only 2 years later in 1989.
Working on one of these, spruce top. Was found in the attic of a condo for who knows how long.
Sold a mid 60`s Gibson LG0 and got a same year Harmony H-165 and have to say I prefer the Harmony. I like the wider fingerboard on it and I think it sounds superior to the Gibson. (and at half the price) It doesn`t have the street cred of having ``Gibson``on the headstock but that doesn`t matter to me.
Hi ! Absolutely stunning 7 videos serie and work ! I do understand your arguments about the bridge, nevertheless you may have experiment and come up with a "kind of" Lowden type bridge, I dig them. Nonetheless, the final result and sound are gorgeous. Love your channel.
I have a 1984 (I think, from the serial no.) Hondo 28Hs - back from the lawsuit days, because it's a dead knockoff of a Martin D28 - which I'm positive needs a neck reset. The truss rod doesn't seem to do anything, and I'm fairly certain it's because it was bottomed out and is now compressing the wood, so I'll need to back that out and add some washers, most likely. Have you ever worked on those? Any gotchas to worry about when removing the neck? I'm thinking it will be a nice project to attempt, and since I got the guitar as a donation, if I screw it up completely, no harm done (it'll make for nice art in that case).
Can you tell the difference between Honduran and African Mahogany. I understand Gibson guitars made before 1965 were made of Honduran Mahogany, that I have read is superior in tonality to African Mahogany. What do you think?
It just dawned on me that like the precision factory built asian guitars, these harmony guitars from the 50's and 60's are technically better products than the sloppily made Gibsons or Martins made in a wasteful medieval fashion where several craftsmen spend silly amounts of time on a single guitar. Hyped and overpriced.
12:47 Someone told you "You don't know anything about steam because it's a DRY heat". Lol. That's hilarious!
I think that Harmony is a really pretty guitar. I love the plain wood look like that.
I've been binging all of these videos, going through a pretty rough time so this helps a lot. Thanks man!
I have an old Takamine Martin clone from (I’m fairly certain) the early 70’s … right down to copying headstock shape and using Martin’s iconic script for the brand lettering.
It’s a little bit hammered … Cracked and caved in top on the upper bout from the neck joint and finger extension to the sound hole or very close to it. I would really love to dump money into materials and take a good clean shot at er’ … at the same time I know the cost to fix it would so far exceed its value but I really don’t care about that in the least … it’s so damned rad .
I wish all these weekend 'luthiers' on You Tube spoke as well and clearly as you. Tired of mumbling and over bearing music tracks.
Superheated to 1,000 degrees in a locomotive steam is a "dry" heat. I suspect hitting any guitar with steam that hot may give "undesirable" results.
Hey Ted, I’m about to embark of a Flattop harmony brace conversion. Do you no if the flat tops are actually flat or does the top have a small radius?
very cool as always! i've only done a few resets, and i recently got the heatstick myself and (on an old harmony as it happens) it worked great, no drama and no mess.
so you near-missed the air pocket with the heatstick but it still did the job nicely, that's good to know. i wonder if some exploratory holes couldn't be drilled with a much smaller bit and when you "strike air" you'd follow with the fatter bit?
are you going to refret? i will say i've discovered that on some of these with no rod and upbowed necks, that clamping the neck straight, clamping the (typically sprung-up) frets down and flooding the slots with CA had a side effect of dramatically straightening the neck, i suppose from regaining some fret slot compression.
I have a h165 for $600 I'd love to part ways with it . It has a "hippie" in the neck and the action is great. It's a 1961 to 1963 no nuts in the truss
Just thinking about it, would the Harmony brand be the namesake of the Harmony Central website from a few years back?
sounds like maybe you were listening to scary pockets? ryan lerman on guitar maybe? :)
Question...should a 165 use classical guitar strings or steel? I am repairing a 165 currently and not sure what to restring it with.
I suspect the playlist you were watching was Scary Pockets? I noticed the same thing myself, great sounding guitars I'd never heard of on every video
Strictly speaking, your commentator who suggested steam is dry heat is sort of right, in that steam is the gaseous state of water. BUT most people speak of water vapour as steam, and that is what is created in 'steam' neck resets. It's wet!
Steam is a dry heat? Super heated steam is but even if a device can provide that steam, which I doubt, as soon as it reaches atmospheric pressure, it's pretty much wet! Very cool upload!
Anyone come across a vintage dreadnought acoustic with chrome string pegs and stainless nut ,double dot inlays at 7 and 12 fret?
Does anyone know the model letter/number of the mid sixties all mahogany Martin dreadnaught?
I have an old Suzuki arch top and I'm doing a neck reset, should I follow the same procedures for relief as on a flat top?
Great video, and I'm very curious of the name of the song you were playing at the end of the video , can you or anyone who watched it tell me the name I want to add it to my repoirtuar. Thank you
Great video! I laughed and cringed when you mentioned the viewer comment that steam was a "dry heat". Looking forward to seeing the next steps in repairing this Harmony.
Steam sucks.It delays being able to do any other work for a week to let everything dried up - but mostly it plays hell with older finishes.
I have a Harmony H-6340, interested?
I wonder if, for a power supply to the ni-chrome wires, you could use a unit from a model train setup.
"steam is a dry heat"....T, sometimes we just have to pray for people in the comments and hope they come to their senses.
When you say this isn't a rare model Harmony, what would be a rare model?
I wish my old harmony was mahogany like this guy. Looks really nice and woody 2 me
@twoodfrd. I like your pragmatism and way of reasoning
LOL steam being "dry heat" .... it's hot water !!!
But, why NOT bluegrass leads on it??
I cringed when you started drilling lol. On to video #2
Hudson: Yeah man, but it's a dry heat! BR :)
Just the roundover on that to edge alone makes this guitar worth it.
"Cross your fingers. Knock on wood. " I thought I was the only one.
Cool !! Can't wait to watch the next episode ! You should be on Netflix !!!
Lol at "dry heat". Heat don't get much wetter than steam.
“Steam is a dry heat!” That made me laugh out loud!
"steam is a dry heat"... must have been a flat earther...
"First and Second"... No 1958? No...
Wow it's a really interesting guitar.
Elvis plays one of these in the movie Girls Girls Girls
hmm, a hand eggbeater drill might be a bit less brutal
My favourite type of guitar. I play a new Guild M-20 solid mahogany. I have seen Harmony solid mahogany come up now and then. They now tend to ask double what i am willing to pay! Will be great to watch these!
Ain't that the truth? You used to be able to pick these up at yard sales for dirt cheap, sometimes as low as twenty bucks. Now that they've developed a following, the nicer Harmony and Kay guitars have shot up in price.
@@ijosef , virtually every one of these all-mahogany Harmony's I've seen at flea markets and such had badly warped, wavy tops.
hey is thge wood on the fret board bubinga??
Like to to see an expensive banjo neck set and tap tune
so what are your thoughts on the solder gun method. ??? I'm in between. The steam has always been an issue with me. Also: why does the rod have to be so big? I tembered some small gauge copper for when I attempt it. The big hole left is a big issue with me. Think I'll get a guinea pig guitar and try it.
I don't know why Stumac went with the big rod. There's must have been a reason. The hole isn't usually too difficult to plug and it disappears completely in ebony. I'm excited to try this new method with 1/16" rods that will be covered by the fret.
Thank you so much, this is fantastic
Surgery! Nice!
"Probably take about a week"... well...
What clown called steam a dry heat...