Thanks for sharing this Sean - appreciate it. Love the transformation you achieve. An interesting point re the range masks that I stumbled on in a recent tutorial on UA-cam was that if you hold down the option key (mac) while adjusting the range mask you get a b&w mask like true luminosity masks so shows white for areas of adjustment.
I see a lot of photos where the poster stresses to always set white point and black point and I was curious about your philosophy of not doing that. Do your global adjustment get you there so you don't do it globally?
I generally tend to work by what I see and what look I'm going for and not by formula...so there are very few things I do "always". With white black points, I will set them if there are true whites and blacks in my image and/or if it helps achieve my intention for how the image looks. A black point is fairly common for me. Unless there are white clouds, specular highlights or snow in daylight, I often do not set a white point because nothing in the image is white. Images in fog or low contrast light don't tend to have anything completely black or white. So, I work with contrast and exposure on an image-by-image basis and to my taste.
All depends on your intentions. Shadow clipping just means blacks with no detail. If it is in small areas or areas that should be completely black then not a problem. :-)
Thank you Sean. It was really great to you do some magic in Lightroom ;-) I have one question about the calibration tool. If I open the image in Photoshop as a SmartObject, I can manipulate the calibration slider in Camera Raw and then attach a mask to this layer to only reveal the changes where I want it. Do you see any negative points by doing so?
That should be a great method for localizing color calibration adjustments to just where you want them. The only downside I can see is that if you are doing this with a raw smart object you will need another background layer underneath for when you apply the mask. This will make your image file a bit larger. Other than that I can't think of downsides.
I came across lesson 2 first & glad that I used your link first. I still use LR6 & AP & have to say it hurts when I see all the tools that are in the subscription version. Of coarse I can these results but, It takes much more work that I don't mind when in the mood for some pp. Nice work & on to lesson 2 for me. Thanks.
I'm glad you caught that...we assigned him that alter-ego several years ago when he first grew the beard. Here's his first onscreen appearance as the most interesting man alive: ua-cam.com/video/oIgy1uemRJQ/v-deo.html
Great post! Maybe you could do a post about how you go about not "overcooking" your images and making them look so natural. I struggle with overcooking and my images and them looking too phony. Any advice?
Thanks Walter. Good idea. I'll add it to the list. As far as advice goes...I tend to try to work delicately and incrementally, but I still overcook it, so I also let it rest for hours or more. When I come back to an image later I frequently see things I've taken too far that I didn't see before.
Thanks for sharing this Sean - appreciate it. Love the transformation you achieve. An interesting point re the range masks that I stumbled on in a recent tutorial on UA-cam was that if you hold down the option key (mac) while adjusting the range mask you get a b&w mask like true luminosity masks so shows white for areas of adjustment.
Yep...that is very helpful for viewing the range selection as if it was a mask in Ps.
Isn’t there a Keystone tool in LR like we have in C1? That would take care of any leaning objects towards the edges without losing too many pixels.
All the tools in Lr tend to crop the image in my experience.
Thank you!
I see a lot of photos where the poster stresses to always set white point and black point and I was curious about your philosophy of not doing that. Do your global adjustment get you there so you don't do it globally?
I generally tend to work by what I see and what look I'm going for and not by formula...so there are very few things I do "always". With white black points, I will set them if there are true whites and blacks in my image and/or if it helps achieve my intention for how the image looks. A black point is fairly common for me. Unless there are white clouds, specular highlights or snow in daylight, I often do not set a white point because nothing in the image is white. Images in fog or low contrast light don't tend to have anything completely black or white. So, I work with contrast and exposure on an image-by-image basis and to my taste.
Well at the end , no clipping . Great video
Hi Sean , I could see that shadows are clipping while you are doing this edit . Is that acceptable ? Asking for just for learning .
All depends on your intentions. Shadow clipping just means blacks with no detail. If it is in small areas or areas that should be completely black then not a problem. :-)
Thank you Sean. It was really great to you do some magic in Lightroom ;-)
I have one question about the calibration tool. If I open the image in Photoshop as a SmartObject, I can manipulate the calibration slider in Camera Raw and then attach a mask to this layer to only reveal the changes where I want it. Do you see any negative points by doing so?
That should be a great method for localizing color calibration adjustments to just where you want them. The only downside I can see is that if you are doing this with a raw smart object you will need another background layer underneath for when you apply the mask. This will make your image file a bit larger. Other than that I can't think of downsides.
@@SeanBagshaw Thank you for your fast response. I think I can handle the bigger files ;-) BTW: The Book "Oregon, My Oregon" is great. ;-)
@@klausschleicher523 I'm so glad you like it. We are just starting to work on one for Washington now.
I came across lesson 2 first & glad that I used your link first. I still use LR6 & AP & have to say it hurts when I see all the tools that are in the subscription version. Of coarse I can these results but, It takes much more work that I don't mind when in the mood for some pp. Nice work & on to lesson 2 for me. Thanks.
Hi Sean: Thanks for creating and sharing your thoughts on how you would approach this image. Well done! Now on to Part II. Cheers, Keith
Hi Sean, excellent reminder of all that can be done in Lr. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video
I hope that you touched on sharpening too
I think you should keep the beard.........makes you a bit more "interesting" looking.........LOL!
Haha! It kind of comes and goes these days.
I’m already dying at 0:52!! David must definitely be THE most interesting man alive! Ok, back to the video.....
I'm glad you caught that...we assigned him that alter-ego several years ago when he first grew the beard. Here's his first onscreen appearance as the most interesting man alive: ua-cam.com/video/oIgy1uemRJQ/v-deo.html
Great post! Maybe you could do a post about how you go about not "overcooking" your images and making them look so natural. I struggle with overcooking and my images and them looking too phony. Any advice?
Thanks Walter. Good idea. I'll add it to the list. As far as advice goes...I tend to try to work delicately and incrementally, but I still overcook it, so I also let it rest for hours or more. When I come back to an image later I frequently see things I've taken too far that I didn't see before.
Thank you Sean and thank you David. The day hasn't been going too well and watching this helped quite a bit. Trippy hoodie!
Sorry to hear your day hasn't been great. I so glad that a Lightroom video can help out. Hope tomorrow goes better :-)
@@SeanBagshaw Thanks man. I may watch it again just to see the Oregon coast and your processing :)
Thanks so much, Sean.
I need this shirt! 😍
Yes you do!