How To Install Spring Bronze Weatherstripping
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- This video will teach you how to install the most DIY friendly and longest lasting weatherstripping for wood doors and windows, spring bronze. The supplies are all listed below and the techniques here apply to almost any kind of wood windows whether it is double-hung, casement, or anything else.
Installing spring bronze can greatly increase the energy efficiency of your windows and cut down significantly on drafts.
------------TOOLS-----------
Milwaukee Tin Snips - amzn.to/2ZjCnoJ
Stanley AntiVibe 16 oz Hammer - amzn.to/2ZjDbdf
------------SUPPLIES-----------
Spring Bronze - thecraftsmanbl...
Coppered Nails - thecraftsmanbl...
------------LINKS-----------
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Patreon - / thecraftsmanblog
Facebook - / craftsmanblog
Website - thecraftsmanbl...
thank you for the demo! Am glad theres something better than felt and thATA sticky rubber stuff that ruins the paint on my door!
The is the gold standard of weather stripping
Beautiful detail, but I think for performance, a bead of silicone down the length behind the nailing line is necessary. Otherwise wind is funneled into that wedge shaped void and finds any gaps and starts working it open.
I have a door that lets in a draft. I’ve tried the usual weather stripping, but that either falls off after a few days, or, if I tack it on with those tiny nails, the weather stripping itself shreds. This also looks a lot nicer than weather stripping-it’ll look a lot nicer in the summer when doors and windows are open!
Thank you very much for the excellent video. The front of my house faces west and often is buffeted by strong winds. I have installed 3M V-seal around the door frame. It has worked well in keeping out air leaks but the adhesive doesn't hold up with all the friction from opening and closing the door, in part because the framing is a bit rough. Eventually I have had to replace it. This looks easy and more permanent.
It's nice to put the nailing strip behind casement window hinges for visual continuity.
My local hardware store has wooden handled, spring loaded, nail sets for doing this, specifically. $15.00. Just load the brass nail into the front end and push. I hammered away for years, even buying materials from the owner during that time, and one day he said, "Do you use these? Nobody buys them. They're on sale." I bought every unit he had (they are a bit low quality). I love them. You ever used these nail sets?
They do work well!
@@TheCraftsmanBlog What are they called? No room to hammer. Need this very much.
If you have older with no parting strips (pre-civil war) should the spring bronze run the full length. Top window is fixed. Bottom is only one with movement. No counter weights involved, as well. Thanks!
I didn't know they still made spring metal weather stripping. I remember seeing it on really old houses.
Same here!
Hello, anyway you could post a picture of how the lockstrips are installed? I've been doing my doors and I can't seem to figure them out around the strikeplate and hinge. Thanks for all you do! Off to glaze some more now. @The Craftsman Blog
Thanks for the video, hate to criticize but I still saw sunlight on that lower left hand side of the casement window. Also another poster correctly pointed out that the hinge side was installed wrong. Even so, you had (2) 1/8" gaps where you cut out for the hinge. A lot of air can get through a 1/4" hole. I use a folding carpenters rule for accurate inside measurements, much better than a tape rule.
Noticed that too. Seems like the gap was between the weatherstripping and the channel. Don’t think bending the weatherstripping would help. I want to try to tackle this on my windows but what do I do if I run into this?
Do you really hate to criticize it feels like you wanted to take the time to critique
Should spring bronze go within the meeting rail? Also, should the spring bronze be placed on the Bottom of the bottom window or on the window sill?
Thanks a ton
Great video. I do wish people would explain terminology though. For example what is a “parting bead”?
A parting bead is the vertical bead which separates the the outer sash from the inner one
Thanks!
Great video! How do you seal the gap along the meeting rails? I tried the spring bronze but it doesn't work well for this purpose. I tried putting it on the lower sash, but I had to install it with the nails along the top of the meeting rail because otherwise they'd be too close to the glass. Installed this way, however, the bronze catches on the upper sash. I'll have to remove it and try something else.
I am unsure how wide a piece of weatherstripping to order for my double hung windows. The windows run 1-3/8"(+/-) to 1-1/2" thick. The space in the window is 1-1/2" to 1-5/8" wide. I can get 1-1/4" or 1-1/8" spring bronze. I know I need to leave space on the spring side for it to move down. But 1-1/4" would be very close nailing to the edge. Should there be a space of wood on the nail edge side as well, or not needed?
I use that on my doors because it works better than sticky strip weather stripping.
I thought i was the only one, glad to see someone else😂
Question - I have a double casement and the two sashes don't meet perfectly in the middle, so this is where I see most sunlight. Can I install bronze on one of the sashes so when they meet there is no gap or what is the best way to resolve this when there is no mullion in-between the two at the middle.
What would be the labor cost per foot? Approximately?
Great video. My 1935 construction CA house has a metal tape measure style mechanism instead of ropes and pulleys in the window sashes. Would you recommend this same set up? That tape measure mechanism has rubbed small grooves into the sash over the years.
Those are tape balances usually made by Pullman or ACME and they still make them. It’s a good system. I would stick with it.
Thanks, great video, except you dissapointed me with the Phillips screws that I didn’t notice until the last shot.
Hey question! Yesterday I had to fix some doors that swelled after being pressure washed prior to painting. The paint was sticking to the metal weather stripping, which I took to be very old (at least 70 years based on the house age). This stripping was in bad shape anyway so I removed it. Does this stuff have any real advantage or should I just forget replacing it and opt for a better, more modern solution? The house owner is not interested in historical accuracy of the trim, just that the doors work smoothly :) Note, the doors are REALLY tight in their jambs (sort of impressed to tell the truth). Thanks!
Metal weatherstripping like spring bronze is still the gold standard compared to vinyl or foams today. If it fits tight then you may not need it, or you could sand the door on the edges and add the weatherstripping for better draft protection.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Thanks!
Where can I buy this???
Hi Scott, another question. For the double hung window, you nailed the spring bronze to the top and bottom of the sashes. Is there any benefit of having it on the sashes, rather than on the sill and top of the casing?
No benefit that I can see other than it’s a lot easier to nail to the top of the top sash than to nail upside down on the top of the jamb.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Thanks, that makes a lot of sense!
@@TheCraftsmanBlog Amen to that. Nothing like nailing upside down with tiny little nails.
You are putting the hinge side on backwards - nails go towards the other side on the hinge side
Any Ideas for steel casement windows? Can’t hammer any nails
Not sure if it still is around anymore since the company has closed its doors, but here is the product you’d need.
metalstrips.accurateweatherstrip.com/viewitems/window-weatherstrips/windows-series-no-100-all-types-of-metal-casemen-2
What type of nails are you using
3/4” coppered nails. thecraftsmanstore.com/coppered-nails/
Why can't you just use gorilla glue or some other adhesive instead of all the nails??
I still see sunlight
Don't look so closely. Ha!
Please, with the music intro, it’s too loud
Wrong wrong wrong. This is not the proper to install spring bronze. Is close but no cigar. You did not stretch it. This is what you do. Jamb and header both installed the same. Before nailing, start with one nail about 1 1/2" from the top and same at the bottom. Drive about half way each. Then bend top nail towards the header and the bottom towards the sill. This stretches the Spring bronze. If this is done correctly the spring bronze will set tight and flat against jamb or header. Now nail as usual. As you nail you can see the bronze start to spring. Then replace the bent nails with new. If further adjustment is needed. (DO NOT DO WHAT THIS GUY DID. NO NO NO). All he did was damage the material. To make this adjustment. Next to where the nails are placed. See the flange or pivot where the spring bronze starts the pull away from the jamb. Take a handle of a pliers and carefully slide on that flange. With some pressure. This will cause more spring in the bronze. Your done. It you look at the video carefully. You will slight ripples in the installation. This can cause whistling. Can be very loud as if Godzilla is in that room . One more tid bit: if a lock or hinge has to be jumped I use a piece of lockstrip to fill the space.
Thanks for your input. But what are you calling, "a piece of lockstrip"? Also, it looks like the strip is installed with the pre bent side in. IMO, the pre factory bend should be coming out to make the seal.
Any particular thoughts on the corners? I seems counterintuitive to run both full length as the first strip installed would interfere w/ installation of the intersecting section. Do you just snip the perpendicular piece at the approximate angle? Thanks!
Install header first. On the end of each side.cut a very small angle.
Great to see it. I did it too. The plans from Woodglut helped me a lot :)