Just FYI, if you buy any DWIN display from AliExpress (this is the one used in the video - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCHgjj9 ), you can use a coupon "DWINUPIR1" to get $5 discount.
Been a viewer for a long time. I cannot begin to imagine how much work this was to figure out from scratch, but you presented it in such a way that viewers can easily do it. I am sure it took days to weeks to figure out that weird software and get stuff working! Thank you for your hard work, dedication, and sharing spirit my friend.
Thank you for your support, it´s much appreciated. You are correct that figuring out the software was tedious and time consuming process. I wonder if it´s just bad, or if it´s just the English translation and it´s more usable in Chinese. In any case, hopefully it should be more understandable now.
@@upir_upir I mean, there's levels of bad translations! The software for the tl866ii+ (and now t48/56) programmer has gotten better over the years but it's still weird at times. But 5 years ago using that programmer/software was like pulling teeth - just like the screen software! Having to press multiple buttons for no reason, etc. I made a comment below about using an elm + torque software (+torquescan and the plugin api app) for the canbus stuff. It would be nearly impossible to try to do it all on an arduino. Using an elm+torque, you'll be able to get all the information you need for the canbus stuff, including the values and how it's mapped to the actual gauge, something torque is amazing at and pulls from massive database! Then once you have all the info, addresses, values, mapping, etc from Torque, moving it over to an arduino+canbus adapter will be a lot easier! The reason I'm so excited is my new car has 3 gauges on the dash. Boost, turbo RPM, and... battery voltage. Wompwomp.. So I was looking into using a 2" round LCD+arduino to replace that useless voltage gauge with something actually useful, so your work here has saved me uncountable hours. And possibly the other 2 depending how well it worked out! It's even dumber because you can't even see coolant temp (in degrees) or oil pressure at all, except in performance gauge view, which gets rid of the speedometer gauge.. So your project overlap with my plans is like 95%. Thanks again!
I am an RC modeller and I can imagine that such kind of display could pimp one's RC plane dashboard to make it more scale. Thank you for revealing this nice stuff. 👍🌻
I´m sure those displays would look great inside RC planes, plus they make them in all the different sizes and shapes, so it should fit into any usual scale. What kind of plane do you have?
@@upir_upir I have a bunch of planes up to 150cm wingspan. Those are to small I think. But there are a lot of scale planes beyond 250 or 300cm whose dashboard would be big enough for this kind of displays. Wouldn't it be nice to see RPM running up when opening the throttle? And all the other parameters regarding flying? 😊
These screens are very cool and take a lot of the work you used to have to do out of this type of project, makes it way more accessible and I love that. Your videos are very informative
I Love this Video, It goes over everything in such depth that I feel I can do this. I've never purchased these devices because I felt that they would just sit on a Shelf reminding me that I was in over my head. But this time I took the plunge, and purchased these exact same items, minus the Arduino, I purchased the Seeed esp32-c3. Hopefully I will take this to to the end and not give up.
Thank you for your comment, and good luck with your project, I´m sure it will turn out great. The ESP32 vs. Arduino will make a very little difference, since it´s really just sending Serial data, and any microcontroller can do that. I have tested those DWIN screens also with micro:bit and it worked as well. The important piece is to get the DWIN display together with accessories, that will save you same headache, as not all SD cards are supported, and if you don´t get one from DWIN, you might need to do some non-standard formatting. Anyway, let me know if you face any issues.
Amazing video as always ! Great screen options ! Can't wait for the video on sensors. I am a total noob with arduino but I can see myself doing this. I am going to look on their website to see if they have a screen that would resemble 3 52mm gauges side by side in terms of width. I do really love the step for step info and also the explanation for the use of certain settings. Keep it up my man!
i can't believe i only discovered this by mistake. i'm subscribed now to your channel, can't wait to see them mounted on the car in the next video(s) !
@@upir_upir i was searching for an old arduino project i did several years ago. and because i watch ford focus related videos, yt suggested this to me. can't wait for the next videos related to the gauges so that i can mount them on my car!
Another outstanding project! You just keep bringing amazing ideas - that little Dash ist just fabulous. I will order some of those displays - they look great!
You are a great teacher, this video is perfect and so motivating. Thanks to this i will now finally try my first Arduino/display project. Big thanks from Sweden.
First time viewer, instant subscriber. I purchased an Arduino micro to dabble, but quickly got discouraged after hours of trying to enable the AVR GCC Toolchain on my windows PC.
@@upir_upirthat's my plan, in a 1934 Morgan three wheeler. I'm thinking a flip out hidden panel for oil and water temp. I'm looking forward to the video on calibrating with sensors. Thanks!
This is so awesome...as I'm rebuilding a Mercedes 190E project, I want to have modern tech in there like these sort of digital gauges... You make it seem fairly easy, Just need to get a few displays, as I have many arduino boards
That sounds very interesting! Do you have any photos/videos of your car? I do plan to create more tutorials on this topic, hopefully ending up with a full dashboard project..
@@upir_upir I do but it's still in the very early stages as I'm converting it into a manual, but am taking note of your tutorials, as they are very helpful. I had seen some else convert a full instrument cluster as well. I am starting to order these little displays as well.
Awesome project mate. Am now combining this and the distance sensors and the CAN Dashboard into a single display using this DWIN. I am sure you have noticed but at the end of the DWIN board there are holes for header pins. If you connect via these it saves having the flat cable to pin convertor as you can connect the DWIN board directly to the arduino board.
Wow that was a long video, but so damn detailed! - I've had one of those DWIN displays kicking around for a couple of years but never made anything as I think the documentation for DGUS is very badly written. I find Nextion displays much, much easier to use, but with their limitation of course. Because of this video i will look for the display again and give it another try. Thanks!
Thank you, I´m glad it was helpful, and if it inspired you to take a second look at the DWIN display, it was worth the effort! I agree that the documentation is horrible, especially compared to Nextion displays, but once you get it working, it´s a pretty cool display. Good luck with your projects!
In computer interconnect, TX and RX stand for Transmit and Receive. It refers to the direction of the signal, whether the device is transmitting or receiving data.
Beautiful work! I would love to have a little cluster just like this in my classic cars. Beyond my capability, I'd absolutely buy it if it were available as a complete unit.
Thank you for your nice comment. I might turn this into a real product in the future, for now, I´m still exploring all the options. Could you perhaps explain what "beyond my capability" means? I would like to record my tutorials in a way that anyone can follow and built those project. Thanks!
@@upir_upir No problem with you tutorials, they are fantastic. Just a problem with an old mind with too much going on at this time to focus on this. Perhaps when winter comes I'll get into it. Your comment has gave me some real motivation. Cheers and thanks!
I think this is brilliant. I'm restoring an old motorcycles. I'd love to do my own clocks and have lean angle sensor for it. Not enough time in life to learn this just as I'm starting to learn 3d printing lol it's amazing tho great work. I've always wanted to do this stuff.
Thank you, that sounds pretty cool! I have another video with tilt sensor, perhaps you can use bits and pieces from that one for the lean angle? ua-cam.com/video/GosqWcScwC0/v-deo.html That said, I have also recently started with 3D printing and I´m overwhelmed as well..
At 9:20 you showed the 121 groups in Photopea. Did you make all the groups / images manually by rotating the needle-layer 1 degree between every image? Or is it possible to automate it?
Yes, it can be semi-automated using Photoshop actions. Unfortunately Photopea only has a limited action support, so the actions would have to be adjusted.
The only question I have: is this is an efficient use of resources? It seems like a lot to use a unique bitmap for every single value. Is it redrawing the entire graphic as it loads each bitmap? Wouldn't it be more efficient to display the background graphic as a static image, and only draw/redraw the needle?
This is how the display should be used, as it only supports 1-bit transparency, so showing the needle over the background might introduce some visual artifacts. I was able to fit two themes with 3 gauges, each having 120 images. That´s 720 images. I feel like that´s probably way too many steps, and probably half of the images would still provide nice and smooth gauge, plus I can probably also lower the compression and it would still look nice. Also, the images could be cropped slightly, but it was easier to do it this way for the tutorial.
@@upir_upir I was thinking the same, maybe even use vector files for the background, where eg colors could be variable. That should theoretically also work for the needle (with the glow), as gradiants are possible as well. But 1-bit transparency is not enough. Is there any other approach to generate the images instead of saving them? BTW I would love to provide a given image as svg if that helps in any project.
very cool! and what would you use for connecting real car sensors to this setup? I'm talking about some older cars sensors that work on resistance. Also i guess 12v directly on arduino would be very bad.... would using a Analog to digital converter be the right choice?
I will cover newer car first - with OBDII, and than hopefully move to cars without canbus. In that case yes, you cannot connect Arduino directly to 12V, you would need to use a voltage divider.
Very good looking video and only thing missing is maybe segment the timestamps so everybody can quick jump. Hope to see soon some connection with the actual values from a car via CAN bus.
What a nice project! One quick question, so with only 1 picture you were able to replicate all the gauge positions using photopea?? And also, How did you get the original picture??
Thank you. Yes, you are correct, the Photopea is used to export all the states since the needle is a smart objects used in all those groups. If you want to know how that file was created, you can download it from GitHub and open in Photopea and take a closer look. Feel free to ask if you have any questions!
Does that screen have a way to rotate a single image? If so, it would use a lot less memory to store the gauges as a single background layer image and then have the needle as a single image that is rotated, instead of having 121 images of the needle in different positions...
Unfortunately, it cannot rotate images. Actually, it might rotate image, but the quality is not so great and you only have 1bit transparency, so no alpha blending. That´s the limitation of the used custom chip.
Thank you for video! Very cool step by step instruction. But i want to ask about memory economy. Can you use backgroung image with needed endpoints/colors/units and only one pack of same needle positions? That should save plenty of memory
Thank you, I’m glad you like it! Unfortunately those displays only support one bit transparency, so your solution might save some memory, but it would not look very good.
Thank you, I’m glad you like it! I might sell those later, for now, it’s just an experiment and a project to learn all the required bits and pieces. And of course, to share my progress.
Great video and very informative. You talked about the Arduino memory and from what I could see, it was close to maxed out. Is that correct? If so, what are you options when taking this approach on a larger scale? i.e. a full dash? I know there are more capable Arduinos but, will a dash that gets all its inputs from a CANbus network require something like a Raspberry Pi4?
I will cover creating a dashboard in the next video. It could still be done with Arduino and DWIN display. Raspberry Pi would be a good ideas as well, but would cost more.
@@upir_upir that’s awesome. What I’m trying to understand is how we get CAN inputs translated to display outputs. I’ve been doing a bit of research and understand there are different protocols. I’ve got the concept of ‘CAN sniffing’ to determine what signals relate to certain functions. This is easier if these are known ahead of time, I.e. if you run an aftermarket ECU. Haltech’s website has some great info on their CAN protocols.
I'm thinking of similar addon to my Rifter, just above the main screen, however, after a quick search on the net I don't think there is a display fitting my search, so I'm asking you - much more familiar with the display market ;) - do you happen to know a wide narrow display more or less: 20cm x 1..2cm **with touch capability**? Or like half of it maybe, so I can join two separate ones? What I have in mind is a bar of icons that I could touch to toggle some options via CANBUS that are either buried in menu or otherwise difficult to check while driving (like when using android auto, there is no temperature visible anywhere in the car - I have to switch to cars app like radio, read the temp and then switch back to android auto for navigation and music). I thought adding such one-icon tall and wide screen will be very useful. Thanks!
Thank you for your comment, however I´m sorry to say, but I´m not aware of any display in that very unusual aspect ratio - perhaps except for the display that was in macbooks above the keyboard? But I don´t know if you can get it from anywhere. The display from this video is one of the widest that I was able to find. That said, if I see something similar somewhere, I will definitely let you know. Good luck with your project!
@@upir_upir Many thanks for your quick answer. I'll search for some shorter one as PoC. I can always put two of such next to each other. The main problem is that most of such narrow displays do not have touch capability. I can always add small bar of physical buttons under it but that will be less flexible for sure. Thanks again for all your videos. Cheers!
That display from macbook would be a perfect fit, it´s narrow as it could be and touch as well, but I guess we will have to wait until someone on AliExpress will find some spare parts and sell it..
absolute perfect timing. i'm trying to retrofit something like this in my car. do you think i can just hook up the sensors i installed like you connected the potentiometers or do i need to change something?
it depends on the output of the sensors, but it is doubtful that they will be linear analog voltages like that provided by the potentiometers. possibly available online but you could use a oscilloscope to read the output of the sensors and then code that into your display controller. intermediate to advanced project to integrate into an actual vehicle.
Thank you, I´m glad it´s helpful. As for your question - it depends on the sensor. Most Arduino sensors would be 5V, but car sensors would be most likely 12V, so some conversion would have to be made. Plus as the other commenter noted, the reported values might be non-linear, and sometimes the sensor does not change the voltage, but resistance instead. What kind of sensor are you trying to interface?
@@upir_upir Thank you for the reply! i instlled three sensors: an oil temperature, an oil pressure and a water temperature sensor. the temp sensors are NTC thermistors and the pressure sensor is resistance based. what would be the best way to convert the 12v signal to 5v for the arduino to read? sorry i'm a bit of a beginner
@@esh92 Use two resistors to form a voltage divider. Google is your friend here. Just be aware that without a reference, the reading will fluctuate when the car is charging the battery (voltage goes to 14V or so) - This can be fixed with another voltage divider that feeds 12V scaled down to 4.xx V into one of the analog inputs and this value is "full scale" for the reference.
@@zaprodk i did some research and it seems like this method will not produce results that are accurate. at least not as accurate as using "normal" 12v gauges. since i want these to be working gauges and not a simple gimmick, i'm gonna have to keep looking for alternatives.
Yes, I have a few videos with Nextion display here on this channel, for example the latest one with Digifiz. Depends on what you think is "better". It definitely has better performance and better screen quality.
Having had a Mk3 RS i like the look of this. It's be a better centre gauge pod than the stock one. Do you think you could add peak value markers with adjustable decay times to them or just to the boost gauge?
@@upir_upir I messed up on my question, sorry. I didn't see how to capture the needle from the original gauge in a layer and fill in the background of the gauge, etc. I see all the parts from you're github but I'm new to photoshop/photopea and would like to know how you did that. Do you have leasons on photopea?
The input data for each channel can be passed through an LPF filter with a cutoff frequency of ~1 Hz, then all readings will be displayed very smoothly, even with a sharp measurement. You have an Arduino anyway, why not? =) The screen is very good.
Hi Upir, how many display could you manage with one Arduino UNO ? Which are the limits other than the gauges (320 X 240 each) ? I am looking for at least 9 gauges. Perhaps one 10.1' can do the job. Thank you for answering. Ciao
Yes, 10" display should have enough space for multiple gauges, but you can connect as many DWIN displays to single UNO as you want. I mean, some reasonable amount of displays..
I loved your video as I have a Ford focus RS !! In the video you indicated that the next video you will connect it to the Car. I am trying to figure out what the coding is for these gauges?
Love it and your newly discovered channel. Please make this (and other projects like this) available for OBD-2 i need this in my beautifull mk1 Audi TT 😊 (I would even buy this ready made from you too) Greatings from NL✌🏻
@@andersdoverud9046 Yeah, straight to canbus would be easier, code wise, and would only need 2 wires that most probably you already have near the dash. That would give access to basicly every value you would need, you just need to find the right address.
@@upir_upir You got yourself a fixed subscriber haha. Thanks! Got a few things changed and have it for 15 years now already in mint condition 😇 Weirdly they did not want an oil pressure gage and turbo pressure gage fixed.. It is visible via obd2 though! I really like mods that are small in the dash too, so i keep my fingers crossed 😉
Thank you, I´m glad you like it. Yes, it´s due to the update speed being 60FPS and the number of images for individual states. That said, it would probably look smooth also with 30FPS and half the images.
I have had this kit for a few weeks now. Silly question for you - did you have to source a USB Type-A to Type-A cable? It's quite odd to have a device with a Type-A socket
im trying to follow along at 15:43 but when i click "Start Downloading" DWIN always freezes. i verified im using the right port (it only appears while plugged in). Did you ever deal with that where it froze on upload or have any suggestions? im on windows 10, no issues up to this point. thanks! Edit: I had to solder the pads to enable TTL. Now arduino serial->screen works, but pc serial still doesn’t :(
It´s strange that Arduino works and PC does not. Have you tried a different USB to TTL boards? I´m using one from Waveshare, it´s big and pricey, but works seamlessly.
@@upir_upir I ended up ordering 2 new replacement boards, still doesn't work. since you didn't mention it in your video so i assume you didn't have to solder the pad to enable TTL like I did? That makes me wonder if your board has another configuration preinstalled that mine didn't have
They have two types of screens. The smaller ones work on 5V and the TTL is also 5V - or at least 5V tolerant. Bigger screens are 6-24V, and the communication is RS232, if you want to switch it to TTL, you need to solder that pad.
@@upir_upir yeah for sure I have a 5v screen and soldered the pad. That only fixed arduino serial issue. But that didn’t fix the PC serial issue. Did you have to do anything aside from soldering that one pad?
Just FYI, if you buy any DWIN display from AliExpress (this is the one used in the video - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCHgjj9 ), you can use a coupon "DWINUPIR1" to get $5 discount.
Is possible apply this project to others Arduino display ???
I not buy from AliExpress, but from Amazon for service...
@@upir_upir coupon is still useble? Will order two display's for my bike
This is the video I have been waiting for my Volvo S60 dash project.
Cool, good luck with that! I look forward seeing your project.
Please post about your project, I've been planning one for my own S60 for a while aswell ^^ Would love some inspiration
Volvo gang.
Yes exactly! This is the video, I have been waiting for as well. I want to develop a Radio display, with commercial quality displays and graphics.
@@the3xploit372
Would have to buy the dash first to reverse enginer it for the connections.
Been a viewer for a long time. I cannot begin to imagine how much work this was to figure out from scratch, but you presented it in such a way that viewers can easily do it. I am sure it took days to weeks to figure out that weird software and get stuff working! Thank you for your hard work, dedication, and sharing spirit my friend.
Thank you for your support, it´s much appreciated. You are correct that figuring out the software was tedious and time consuming process. I wonder if it´s just bad, or if it´s just the English translation and it´s more usable in Chinese. In any case, hopefully it should be more understandable now.
@@upir_upir I mean, there's levels of bad translations! The software for the tl866ii+ (and now t48/56) programmer has gotten better over the years but it's still weird at times. But 5 years ago using that programmer/software was like pulling teeth - just like the screen software! Having to press multiple buttons for no reason, etc.
I made a comment below about using an elm + torque software (+torquescan and the plugin api app) for the canbus stuff. It would be nearly impossible to try to do it all on an arduino. Using an elm+torque, you'll be able to get all the information you need for the canbus stuff, including the values and how it's mapped to the actual gauge, something torque is amazing at and pulls from massive database! Then once you have all the info, addresses, values, mapping, etc from Torque, moving it over to an arduino+canbus adapter will be a lot easier!
The reason I'm so excited is my new car has 3 gauges on the dash. Boost, turbo RPM, and... battery voltage. Wompwomp.. So I was looking into using a 2" round LCD+arduino to replace that useless voltage gauge with something actually useful, so your work here has saved me uncountable hours. And possibly the other 2 depending how well it worked out! It's even dumber because you can't even see coolant temp (in degrees) or oil pressure at all, except in performance gauge view, which gets rid of the speedometer gauge.. So your project overlap with my plans is like 95%.
Thanks again!
@@upir_upirany guides on how to connect with sensors in guess they have to be connected to arduino but where on the board
This is one of the most detailed and impressive instructional videos I've seen in a while. Very easy to understand. Great job!
Thank you very much for your support and nice words, I really appreciate it!
I am an RC modeller and I can imagine that such kind of display could pimp one's RC plane dashboard to make it more scale. Thank you for revealing this nice stuff. 👍🌻
I´m sure those displays would look great inside RC planes, plus they make them in all the different sizes and shapes, so it should fit into any usual scale. What kind of plane do you have?
Whoa that's a great idea
Would bring the fpv to the next stage
@@upir_upir I have a bunch of planes up to 150cm wingspan. Those are to small I think. But there are a lot of scale planes beyond 250 or 300cm whose dashboard would be big enough for this kind of displays. Wouldn't it be nice to see RPM running up when opening the throttle? And all the other parameters regarding flying? 😊
there is actual HSD LCD screen kit for FPV rc planes. Lost the link, don't know if they still make them. But it's/was definitely a thing.
These screens are very cool and take a lot of the work you used to have to do out of this type of project, makes it way more accessible and I love that. Your videos are very informative
Thank you!
GINGERNINGER HUH
I Love this Video,
It goes over everything in such depth that I feel I can do this.
I've never purchased these devices because I felt that they would just sit on a Shelf reminding me that I was in over my head.
But this time I took the plunge, and purchased these exact same items, minus the Arduino, I purchased the Seeed esp32-c3.
Hopefully I will take this to to the end and not give up.
Thank you for your comment, and good luck with your project, I´m sure it will turn out great. The ESP32 vs. Arduino will make a very little difference, since it´s really just sending Serial data, and any microcontroller can do that. I have tested those DWIN screens also with micro:bit and it worked as well. The important piece is to get the DWIN display together with accessories, that will save you same headache, as not all SD cards are supported, and if you don´t get one from DWIN, you might need to do some non-standard formatting. Anyway, let me know if you face any issues.
Every video gets better and better!
I´m glad you think that, thank you for your nice comment!
Amazing video as always ! Great screen options !
Can't wait for the video on sensors. I am a total noob with arduino but I can see myself doing this. I am going to look on their website to see if they have a screen that would resemble 3 52mm gauges side by side in terms of width.
I do really love the step for step info and also the explanation for the use of certain settings. Keep it up my man!
Thank you, I´m glad you like it! They do have some round screens available, I will cover those in the next video.
Thank you so much, I've got the photoshop skills but lacked the arduino programming knowledge. This video is gold ❤
Thank you, that´s great to hear!
Thanks!
Thank you for your support!
Отличная работа!! Лайк, подписка! Человек с хорошими идеями)
Thanks!
Wow! Great video, you're doing a very good job to describe the details of that amazing project!
Thank you!
Very cool project(s)! Cannot wait for the next video where CAN-BUS is used as input!
Thank you, and yes, that´s the plan!
Excellent video as always. Keep up the good work!
Thank you, I´m glad you are enjoying my videos!
Big fan of your videos, keep up the good work! This opens up a lot of possibilities.
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Valeu!
Thank you, I appreciate it!
i can't believe i only discovered this by mistake. i'm subscribed now to your channel, can't wait to see them mounted on the car in the next video(s)
!
I´m glad for that mistake! Were you searching for something else?
@@upir_upir i was searching for an old arduino project i did several years ago. and because i watch ford focus related videos, yt suggested this to me. can't wait for the next videos related to the gauges so that i can mount them on my car!
wAUUU great!! FANTASTIC !!! I love it, learning with you is a luxury, really, thank you very much.
You are welcome, thank you for your nice words!
Another outstanding project! You just keep bringing amazing ideas - that little Dash ist just fabulous. I will order some of those displays - they look great!
Thank you. I´m glad you like it and good luck with your project!
You are a great teacher, this video is perfect and so motivating. Thanks to this i will now finally try my first Arduino/display project. Big thanks from Sweden.
That´s great to hear, thank your for your nice words and good luck with your project!
Such an awesome explanation! Great detail and pace!
Thank you, I´m always unsure about the pace and whether it´s too fast or not.
this is the best tutorial video i ever watched on youtube, amazing work, learned so much
Thank you for your nice comment, I’m glad it was useful!
First time viewer, instant subscriber. I purchased an Arduino micro to dabble, but quickly got discouraged after hours of trying to enable the AVR GCC Toolchain on my windows PC.
That´s great to hear, thank you for your sub and good luck with your projects!
I love your vid. The display looks really smooth. 😮
Thank you, I´m glad you like it!
Wow, you made that look almost easy... Incredible work.
Thank you, I´m glad it looks easy!
Excellent - you are a really good explainer! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for your comment, I´m glad it makes sense!
Great and thorough walk through. Thanks!
Thank you, I´m glad you like it!
This is awesome!! Just subscribed and added a bunch of your videos to my watch list. 🔥🔥
Thank you, that´s great to hear! Hope you enjoy the other videos as well.
Another amazing project!
Thank you, I´m glad you like it.
Love stuff like this , a great example to educate everyone and inspire. ❤
Thank you for your nice words, I´m glad you like it!
Wow! I'm so pleased the YT algorithm suggested this video. I learned a ton!!! Insta-subscribe! Thanks for the vid!!!
I´m glad it was a good suggestion! Thank you for your nice words, I really appreciate it.
Wow! Just what I've been looking for. Thanks!
Perfect! Are you going to put this into your car?
@@upir_upirthat's my plan, in a 1934 Morgan three wheeler. I'm thinking a flip out hidden panel for oil and water temp. I'm looking forward to the video on calibrating with sensors. Thanks!
This is so awesome...as I'm rebuilding a Mercedes 190E project, I want to have modern tech in there like these sort of digital gauges... You make it seem fairly easy, Just need to get a few displays, as I have many arduino boards
That sounds very interesting! Do you have any photos/videos of your car? I do plan to create more tutorials on this topic, hopefully ending up with a full dashboard project..
@@upir_upir I do but it's still in the very early stages as I'm converting it into a manual, but am taking note of your tutorials, as they are very helpful. I had seen some else convert a full instrument cluster as well.
I am starting to order these little displays as well.
got obd2 on it? easy to connect a display and have a full dash for obd with basically zero work :) It may be pre obd2 though
Finally fast displays for "HDMI for poor people" -) Thank you very much
You are welcome, I agree that those are great cheap and fast displays.
This is exactly what I needed 🎉
That’s great to hear, thank you for your support!
Awesome project mate. Am now combining this and the distance sensors and the CAN Dashboard into a single display using this DWIN. I am sure you have noticed but at the end of the DWIN board there are holes for header pins. If you connect via these it saves having the flat cable to pin convertor as you can connect the DWIN board directly to the arduino board.
I am going to use this someday :), wow it is sooo pretty. Arduino POWER.
Thank you for your nice words! And of course, good luck with your project!
Amazing work !
Thank you!
Great work ❤, keep it up
Thank you for your comment!
Looking forward to see how you connect to the car. Going to watch your older videos in the meantime. Fascinating stuff!
Thank you! Yes, connecting this to a real car is a topic for a future video - hopefully soon.
@@upir_upir If it could read the Can signals from the obd its possible.
that is amazing awesome work. Thank You for such great content.
You are welcome; thank you for your nice comment!
Amazing job, super clear
Thank you, I´m glad you like it!
Pretty sure I asked if you could do exactly this on one of your last videos, super cool I may try and update my RS using this method haha.
Cool! Good luck with your project!
Ganz schön coole Nummer. 😊
Thank you, but what number? :)
@@upir_upir Numbers: cool Design, Technical Innovation.
Thanks!
Wow that was a long video, but so damn detailed! - I've had one of those DWIN displays kicking around for a couple of years but never made anything as I think the documentation for DGUS is very badly written. I find Nextion displays much, much easier to use, but with their limitation of course. Because of this video i will look for the display again and give it another try. Thanks!
Thank you, I´m glad it was helpful, and if it inspired you to take a second look at the DWIN display, it was worth the effort! I agree that the documentation is horrible, especially compared to Nextion displays, but once you get it working, it´s a pretty cool display. Good luck with your projects!
Great video! I will not make it, but thanks for perfect explanation and sound. Very interesting.
Thank you for your comment, I´m glad you like it!
In computer interconnect, TX and RX stand for Transmit and Receive. It refers to the direction of the signal, whether the device is transmitting or receiving data.
Thank you for the clarification!
Id love to see how to interface the car and report real information. Great video it was amazing!
Thank you! Yes, interfacing with the real car will be covered soon.
Beautiful work! I would love to have a little cluster just like this in my classic cars. Beyond my capability, I'd absolutely buy it if it were available as a complete unit.
Thank you for your nice comment. I might turn this into a real product in the future, for now, I´m still exploring all the options. Could you perhaps explain what "beyond my capability" means? I would like to record my tutorials in a way that anyone can follow and built those project. Thanks!
@@upir_upir No problem with you tutorials, they are fantastic. Just a problem with an old mind with too much going on at this time to focus on this. Perhaps when winter comes I'll get into it. Your comment has gave me some real motivation. Cheers and thanks!
Amazing ! Thanks for sharing us
You are welcome, thank you for your comment!
Great video, thanks for sharing!
You are welcome, thank you for your comment!
awesome project. 🤩🤩🤩🤩
Thank you!
Thank you very much!
- That's an incredibly useful video for me! 😀
That´s great to hear. Do you plan to use those displays for any project?
@@upir_upir
Potentially yes, but not at nearest future... 😔
- Thank you for your work! 👏🤓
Amazing video, now i want to do this to my car.
Perfect, go for it! And of course - good luck with your project.
I think this is brilliant. I'm restoring an old motorcycles. I'd love to do my own clocks and have lean angle sensor for it. Not enough time in life to learn this just as I'm starting to learn 3d printing lol it's amazing tho great work. I've always wanted to do this stuff.
Thank you, that sounds pretty cool! I have another video with tilt sensor, perhaps you can use bits and pieces from that one for the lean angle? ua-cam.com/video/GosqWcScwC0/v-deo.html
That said, I have also recently started with 3D printing and I´m overwhelmed as well..
@@upir_upir that's really useful, thanks for the link. Truly inspired 👍 I'll have to cost up the parts later today.
thanks very much for your detail explanation.
You are welcome, I´m glad you like it!
Great video 👍👍
Thank you!
Thanks for making this video! I wish I had the skills to do this. I want to put a digital dashboard in my 2002 Renault Clio Cup
You are welcome. Is there anything in the video that´s unclear? I hope to slowly move towards creating a full dashboard..
fantastic video
Thank you!
At 9:20 you showed the 121 groups in Photopea. Did you make all the groups / images manually by rotating the needle-layer 1 degree between every image? Or is it possible to automate it?
Yes, it can be semi-automated using Photoshop actions. Unfortunately Photopea only has a limited action support, so the actions would have to be adjusted.
Super cool!
Thank you!
The only question I have: is this is an efficient use of resources? It seems like a lot to use a unique bitmap for every single value. Is it redrawing the entire graphic as it loads each bitmap? Wouldn't it be more efficient to display the background graphic as a static image, and only draw/redraw the needle?
This is how the display should be used, as it only supports 1-bit transparency, so showing the needle over the background might introduce some visual artifacts. I was able to fit two themes with 3 gauges, each having 120 images. That´s 720 images. I feel like that´s probably way too many steps, and probably half of the images would still provide nice and smooth gauge, plus I can probably also lower the compression and it would still look nice. Also, the images could be cropped slightly, but it was easier to do it this way for the tutorial.
@@upir_upir I was thinking the same, maybe even use vector files for the background, where eg colors could be variable. That should theoretically also work for the needle (with the glow), as gradiants are possible as well. But 1-bit transparency is not enough. Is there any other approach to generate the images instead of saving them? BTW I would love to provide a given image as svg if that helps in any project.
very cool! and what would you use for connecting real car sensors to this setup? I'm talking about some older cars sensors that work on resistance. Also i guess 12v directly on arduino would be very bad....
would using a Analog to digital converter be the right choice?
I will cover newer car first - with OBDII, and than hopefully move to cars without canbus. In that case yes, you cannot connect Arduino directly to 12V, you would need to use a voltage divider.
@@upir_upir looking forward to it! Thanks for the tip.
Amazing !
Thank you, I´m glad you like it!
Really cool project. In the upcoming video I hope you have something about reading from canbus.
Thank you and yes, I do plan to experiment with OBDII and canbus a little bit more, once I gain enough knowledge..
@@upir_upir I'd love to see data pulled from CAN-BUS or OBDII and translated to gauge movement.
Yep, hopefully soon...
Very good looking video and only thing missing is maybe segment the timestamps so everybody can quick jump. Hope to see soon some connection with the actual values from a car via CAN bus.
I already have a video with connection for the car, actually two of them, please take a look at my channel for more details.
Good video, thanks. inspiration...
Thank you!
What a nice project! One quick question, so with only 1 picture you were able to replicate all the gauge positions using photopea?? And also, How did you get the original picture??
Thank you. Yes, you are correct, the Photopea is used to export all the states since the needle is a smart objects used in all those groups. If you want to know how that file was created, you can download it from GitHub and open in Photopea and take a closer look. Feel free to ask if you have any questions!
Does that screen have a way to rotate a single image? If so, it would use a lot less memory to store the gauges as a single background layer image and then have the needle as a single image that is rotated, instead of having 121 images of the needle in different positions...
Unfortunately, it cannot rotate images. Actually, it might rotate image, but the quality is not so great and you only have 1bit transparency, so no alpha blending. That´s the limitation of the used custom chip.
Thank you for video!
Very cool step by step instruction.
But i want to ask about memory economy.
Can you use backgroung image with needed endpoints/colors/units and only one pack of same needle positions? That should save plenty of memory
Thank you, I’m glad you like it! Unfortunately those displays only support one bit transparency, so your solution might save some memory, but it would not look very good.
Great video. If possible canale a tutorial on how to design those dials on photopea please.
Thank you. Yes, I will record a video about the Photopea part soon.
Awesome video! With that Dwin display how many inputs could you have (sensors)
Thank you. The inputs are not set by DWIN, but by the used microcontroller.
@ thank you!
@upir Awesome video! I have been thinking of how to do something just like this for a long time! Is there any chance you are selling these?
Thank you, I’m glad you like it! I might sell those later, for now, it’s just an experiment and a project to learn all the required bits and pieces. And of course, to share my progress.
Brilliant....Thank you for a great detailed tutorial.
You are welcome!
Great video and very informative. You talked about the Arduino memory and from what I could see, it was close to maxed out. Is that correct? If so, what are you options when taking this approach on a larger scale? i.e. a full dash? I know there are more capable Arduinos but, will a dash that gets all its inputs from a CANbus network require something like a Raspberry Pi4?
I will cover creating a dashboard in the next video. It could still be done with Arduino and DWIN display. Raspberry Pi would be a good ideas as well, but would cost more.
@@upir_upir that’s awesome. What I’m trying to understand is how we get CAN inputs translated to display outputs. I’ve been doing a bit of research and understand there are different protocols. I’ve got the concept of ‘CAN sniffing’ to determine what signals relate to certain functions. This is easier if these are known ahead of time, I.e. if you run an aftermarket ECU. Haltech’s website has some great info on their CAN protocols.
I'm thinking of similar addon to my Rifter, just above the main screen, however, after a quick search on the net I don't think there is a display fitting my search, so I'm asking you - much more familiar with the display market ;) - do you happen to know a wide narrow display more or less: 20cm x 1..2cm **with touch capability**? Or like half of it maybe, so I can join two separate ones? What I have in mind is a bar of icons that I could touch to toggle some options via CANBUS that are either buried in menu or otherwise difficult to check while driving (like when using android auto, there is no temperature visible anywhere in the car - I have to switch to cars app like radio, read the temp and then switch back to android auto for navigation and music). I thought adding such one-icon tall and wide screen will be very useful. Thanks!
Thank you for your comment, however I´m sorry to say, but I´m not aware of any display in that very unusual aspect ratio - perhaps except for the display that was in macbooks above the keyboard? But I don´t know if you can get it from anywhere. The display from this video is one of the widest that I was able to find. That said, if I see something similar somewhere, I will definitely let you know. Good luck with your project!
@@upir_upir Many thanks for your quick answer. I'll search for some shorter one as PoC. I can always put two of such next to each other. The main problem is that most of such narrow displays do not have touch capability. I can always add small bar of physical buttons under it but that will be less flexible for sure. Thanks again for all your videos. Cheers!
That display from macbook would be a perfect fit, it´s narrow as it could be and touch as well, but I guess we will have to wait until someone on AliExpress will find some spare parts and sell it..
Love the video and wanted to recreate it, but Ali told me the product is not longer available. Do you have another one which u recommend
Thank you. Hopefully the display should be back in stock soon. In the meantime, you can use any 5V DWIN display.
Looks like they restocked a few pieces - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCHgjj9
@@upir_upir Thanks, ordered right away ;)
absolute perfect timing. i'm trying to retrofit something like this in my car.
do you think i can just hook up the sensors i installed like you connected the potentiometers or do i need to change something?
it depends on the output of the sensors, but it is doubtful that they will be linear analog voltages like that provided by the potentiometers. possibly available online but you could use a oscilloscope to read the output of the sensors and then code that into your display controller. intermediate to advanced project to integrate into an actual vehicle.
Thank you, I´m glad it´s helpful. As for your question - it depends on the sensor. Most Arduino sensors would be 5V, but car sensors would be most likely 12V, so some conversion would have to be made. Plus as the other commenter noted, the reported values might be non-linear, and sometimes the sensor does not change the voltage, but resistance instead. What kind of sensor are you trying to interface?
@@upir_upir Thank you for the reply!
i instlled three sensors: an oil temperature, an oil pressure and a water temperature sensor.
the temp sensors are NTC thermistors and the pressure sensor is resistance based.
what would be the best way to convert the 12v signal to 5v for the arduino to read? sorry i'm a bit of a beginner
@@esh92 Use two resistors to form a voltage divider. Google is your friend here. Just be aware that without a reference, the reading will fluctuate when the car is charging the battery (voltage goes to 14V or so) - This can be fixed with another voltage divider that feeds 12V scaled down to 4.xx V into one of the analog inputs and this value is "full scale" for the reference.
@@zaprodk i did some research and it seems like this method will not produce results that are accurate. at least not as accurate as using "normal" 12v gauges.
since i want these to be working gauges and not a simple gimmick, i'm gonna have to keep looking for alternatives.
greate😍😍😍
Thank you!
Hi, I have question. have you used Nextion before. It's DWIN LCD better than Nextion LCD? I am interested this DWIN LCD.
Yes, I have a few videos with Nextion display here on this channel, for example the latest one with Digifiz. Depends on what you think is "better". It definitely has better performance and better screen quality.
Really great video....ever think about doing a digital dash with tunerstudio as input?
Thank you! Yes, I do plan to try some dashboard, but is the turnerstudio really the input? I though that it is for displaying the data.
I wish this kind of stuff could be done without needing dedicated software for graphics...
Great stuff project regardless 👍
It can be done, but not with this particular (cheap) display. Once you start paying more money, things are easier :)
Having had a Mk3 RS i like the look of this. It's be a better centre gauge pod than the stock one. Do you think you could add peak value markers with adjustable decay times to them or just to the boost gauge?
Thank you! Peak value is an interesting idea, I will try to add it, but as you said, probably makes sense only for boost gauge?
How did you use Photopea to subtract the needle into a gauge without and just the needle? That was pretty cool.
I don´t understand the question? The image contains both the needle and the background.
@@upir_upir I messed up on my question, sorry. I didn't see how to capture the needle from the original gauge in a layer and fill in the background of the gauge, etc. I see all the parts from you're github but I'm new to photoshop/photopea and would like to know how you did that. Do you have leasons on photopea?
The input data for each channel can be passed through an LPF filter with a cutoff frequency of ~1 Hz, then all readings will be displayed very smoothly, even with a sharp measurement. You have an Arduino anyway, why not? =) The screen is very good.
Yes, there are many ways how to make this project better, this video was mainly about the screen and the graphics design.
Hi Upir, how many display could you manage with one Arduino UNO ? Which are the limits other than the gauges (320 X 240 each) ? I am looking for at least 9 gauges. Perhaps one 10.1' can do the job. Thank you for answering. Ciao
Yes, 10" display should have enough space for multiple gauges, but you can connect as many DWIN displays to single UNO as you want. I mean, some reasonable amount of displays..
I loved your video as I have a Ford focus RS !! In the video you indicated that the next video you will connect it to the Car. I am trying to figure out what the coding is for these gauges?
Cool! And yes, I will describe the connecting it to the car in the next video.
As an Owner of a Mk8 Fiesta ST - I would LOVE to do this; My only issue is finding a place to put it
I´m sure it would look great inside!
@@upir_upir any chance of selling it as a kit for a dummy like me? 😅
Maybe in the future, once I make it more bulletproof. For now, it´s more in the exploration phase, as I´m learning along the way..
@@upir_upir... Maybe even a once off kit? 😉
I would love to see a round gauge display project for motorcycle. Hopefully you will have one sooonnn
Yep, that´s surely my plan!
Brilliant
Thank you!
Impressive!
Thank you!
Love it and your newly discovered channel.
Please make this (and other projects like this) available for OBD-2 i need this in my beautifull mk1 Audi TT 😊
(I would even buy this ready made from you too)
Greatings from NL✌🏻
Thank you. Connecting this to OBDII is definitely on my to-do list for the next video. Audi TT is a cool car!
@@upir_upir Isn't OBDII one of the CAN-buses in most cars?
@@andersdoverud9046 Yeah, straight to canbus would be easier, code wise, and would only need 2 wires that most probably you already have near the dash.
That would give access to basicly every value you would need, you just need to find the right address.
@@upir_upir You got yourself a fixed subscriber haha. Thanks! Got a few things changed and have it for 15 years now already in mint condition 😇
Weirdly they did not want an oil pressure gage and turbo pressure gage fixed.. It is visible via obd2 though! I really like mods that are small in the dash too, so i keep my fingers crossed 😉
Hello upir
Thank you for this great content !!!
I'm wondering how you achieved the smooth transition in your gauses. Is this due to the 60 fps rate ?!
Thank you, I´m glad you like it. Yes, it´s due to the update speed being 60FPS and the number of images for individual states. That said, it would probably look smooth also with 30FPS and half the images.
I have had this kit for a few weeks now. Silly question for you - did you have to source a USB Type-A to Type-A cable? It's quite odd to have a device with a Type-A socket
On the AliExpress page, there was an option to buy "with accessories", and it included that cable. I agree that it´s quite nonstandard cable.
im trying to follow along at 15:43 but when i click "Start Downloading" DWIN always freezes. i verified im using the right port (it only appears while plugged in). Did you ever deal with that where it froze on upload or have any suggestions? im on windows 10, no issues up to this point. thanks!
Edit: I had to solder the pads to enable TTL. Now arduino serial->screen works, but pc serial still doesn’t :(
It´s strange that Arduino works and PC does not. Have you tried a different USB to TTL boards? I´m using one from Waveshare, it´s big and pricey, but works seamlessly.
@@upir_upir I ended up ordering 2 new replacement boards, still doesn't work.
since you didn't mention it in your video so i assume you didn't have to solder the pad to enable TTL like I did? That makes me wonder if your board has another configuration preinstalled that mine didn't have
They have two types of screens. The smaller ones work on 5V and the TTL is also 5V - or at least 5V tolerant. Bigger screens are 6-24V, and the communication is RS232, if you want to switch it to TTL, you need to solder that pad.
@@upir_upir yeah for sure I have a 5v screen and soldered the pad. That only fixed arduino serial issue. But that didn’t fix the PC serial issue.
Did you have to do anything aside from soldering that one pad?
Great video, I’m guessing the new step is to interrogate the CAN bus (via ODB2?) to drive the gauges?
Thank you, and yes, that’s exactly the plan for the next video.
@@upir_upir looking forward to it
Good job Guy ;oP
Thank you!
Very nice.
Thank you, I´m glad you like it!
great stuff! now can You explain how to make it work based on ODB2 CAN signals?
Yes, that´s the topic for the next video.