How To Tie Down - Properly
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2019
- In the past I made a video called "How to Tie Down". It was cheap and it worked but it probably wasn't the best way to do it. Over the years I've found a better way thats maybe a little more expensive but is safer and even quicker than before.
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Whats up guys, thanks for all your comments below, lets hear more trailering tips and tricks! I know everyone has their way of doing things and I'm sure the pro's don't agree either. I knew the crossing the straps comment was going to ruffle some feathers but let me explain why you shouldn't cross straps... Lets say you lose 1 crossed strap in the rear or it breaks, now your load is totally loose because the 1 remaining crossed strap in the rear has nothing to pull against and now your vehicle is just free to go wherever the heck it wants and since the strap was crossed and left to right and not front to back it also loosens the front straps as well when your vehicle slides forward.
It's going to be a never ending debate. Your logic is correct I've seen both. I guess it just depends how far you are hauling if you add cross straps with a straight pull strap if you want to be Overkill and not lose your rig. Or chains and binders (my personal favorite for my rigs but not cars)
@@jamesfkndean never can have too many strap right? Run a set crossed and a set straight. Problem solved. Lol thanks for all the cool vids
Matt, this is one of those damned if you do, damned if you don't situations. I usually don't cross straps or chains, but sometimes do. Sometimes it works better for what you're hauling to have them crossed or straight. Sometimes strap or chain clearance is an issue with it one way or the other and depending on the angle it is pulling down to the trailer, I prefer to cross and sometimes I prefer it pulling straight. Your video hit the nail on the head, don't half ass it, and be smart. Secure that vehicle properly so you don't kill someone or yourself. Thanks for the videos as always!
I here what you are saying this is more of a reason to inspect straps and or chains then not to cross strap. This is also why you don't drive 8 hrs straight without periodically checking your load securement.
It's not JUST a lesson in checking your straps. It is good practice to do so, but sometimes things can fail without any visible signs before. It IS a lesson in redundancy. Two straps both doing essentially the same thing gives you redundancy. This is not something that is up for debate, or that there is multiple ways of doing right. If you, for some reason want to cross straps, then use 4 of them at the back, because that's the only way you will have redundancy with that setup. Just take a page from the aerospace industry, redundancy is life. This is the ONLY way to do it, end of story.
"I don't use ramps, but if you need ramps..." - Matt with a subtle flex.
best Matt flex ever haha
I didnt even use ramps to
Load my dads stock pickup when a brake line blew lol.
My tires arent that big, and I dont use the ramps either. Lol
As a truck driver hauling heavy equipment daily, i have to say, you sir have your shit together. Nice job !
I never considered watching the trailer pivot point as a guide. Thanks. I like learning stuff. WD40 for the win!
This video saved our butts! We had to load a work pick up on a flat bed trailer and drive it 350 miles. Neither of us had ever loaded a vehicle on a trailer let alone strapped one down. I totally would have strapped down the vehicle wrong and probably not safe. Luckily there was a farm supply store in the town we were stuck in. They had almost everything you mentioned using. We strapped it down like you showed. Got it from South Dakota to the dealership in Nebraska without any problems at all. Thanks so much for this video it again it saved our butts. We had zero stress about the vehicle on the trailer or our safety. Thanks so much!
I love UA-cam and all the ppl who post videos as someone who never had a father figure to show me this stuff I’ve learned so much from other men willing to share their knowledge thank you so much 🙏
Tried towing for the first time yesterday. Started with my little Honda for practice. Man did I get things wrong! I strapped it down like you would a flatbed load, luckily I put two out of four straps straight through the wheels on the car and was only going a short distance. The two I threw over the car were off in under a quarter mile. Never would’ve thought. Thank God I caught it instantly because of my experience driving class A flatbeds and checking my mirrors constantly. One guy drove past me just before I caught it and just gave me the thumbs up… what a Dick. That’s why I’m here watching your video. Thanks so much for all the info. Your video was very very helpful. I already feel safer and I haven’t even gotten outta bed yet 💀
Keep on truckin my man. Safe travels!
You have come quite a ways since your early videos, Matt! You've learned a lot along the way, and taught us all a lot as well. Thanks for making this video, as there are far too many people out there towing unsafely going off misinformation they find elsewhere on the interwebs or from their "friends".
You demonstrated the proper method of tying down a vehicle onto a trailer perfectly. I would just like to expand on your excellent point on NOT crossing the straps side to side: Crossing them, or angling them to the sides in any way AT ALL eliminates the redundant safety factor of having two straps, as if/when one breaks, the remaining strap is now by itself, pulling to one side and is much longer than it would be if it was setup straight forward and backward. The load will now walk toward this strap, effectively loosening it.
Thanks man, you got it exactly, in fact I just left a pinned comment explaining this as well...
Good vid with plenty of tips. I've been towing off and on for years and your tip about checking the pivot point between the trailer tires is new to me and makes excellent sense. It's something I'll start doing for sure! The reasons I've heard for criss crossing the straps or going straight seem to be 50-50. On the front I use over the wheel type straps. The rear axle I criss cross to prevent the vehicle from sliding to the side. While this may not be necessary but since I often trailer through mountainous terrain with sometimes sharp curves, it makes me feel better.
I'm also going to add E-track and thru the rim type straps for extra security. Especially for vehicles with manual trans, no brakes or others that can't be gear/ brake locked in place.
I too spray WD 40 dry lube on my strap ratchets but I try not to get any of it on the straps material. After all, the purpose of a lubricant is to make something slippery. A possibly slippery strap should be avoided, IMHO.
Also,, vehicle being strapped,, ideally, vehicle in neutral so you’re not pulling against the parking pawl and the load is distributed without the strain and tension from the pawl trying to keep it from rolling. After it’s secured, then put it in park.
Hunter O'Connor Just tension the front and rear straps evenly, and it won’t be a problem. It’s pretty damn strong though. It’s designed the hold the entire weight of the vehicle on a hill. I’ve never had one break, or anyone else I know either for that matter.
I think this might be a rule from 1960 when parking pawls must have been made of buttered toast.
That's exactly what the tow guy did when with my '73 Charger. He had me leave it in neutral until the car was secured, then he asked me to first put on the parking brake on then put the shifter into park (or 1st gear with a manual). If you ever see the little peg that holds an auto transmission in park, you would soon realize why you want as little pre-load force on it as possible.
@@stevenrice47 As I recall that piece of steel is only about the diameter of a pencil.
At least it was in a 72 Chrysler Newport (at over 4500 lbs.)
I usually secure the load in neutral, then once everything is wrapped up I throw on the parking brake then toss the vehicle in Park (if an auto). All my rigs have manual transmissions, nothing the diameter of a pencil in an SM465 ;)
Great info. I use 4 like you did and also put a strap on each rock slider to tie down the body side to side. Helps keep the jeeps body weight shifting from pulling the trailer over in a panic situation on the road.
On our last outing I sat back and let my son take lead to get the taste when I was there as back up. We had to go out retrieve a rollover that had went down a cliff. They had the Durango up and sitting for us but it was fun getting it on the trailer with the front end broken up. I have expanded steel on my ramps and knew dragging a screwed front end up them was going to hurt, so I bolted down 2x4's and another guy brought C channel that capped the wood. Anyways loading done and dodging oncoming traffic till we got to pavement, the vehicle sat nice. My trailer has a lot of D rings along each side from a machine shop who used my trailer to move some work they did. They needed to secure things and I ended up with way more than I need.
for my first time towing, this was an amazingly helpful video! So glad I found this, and thank you so much
i use chain and binders, overkill but that doesn't matter when youre securing your investment
I used to load up bob cats and excavators. Chains and binders are no joke you can get something stupid tight with those.
Jesse Clavette better to over safe then to have your car come off on the highway
Chains might be required by law...check your state regulations. Also grade of chain for DOT legal.
No such thing as overkill when it comes to safety
What type of chains and binders please?, currently working on a project I have trailer but pending accessories thx 👍
Thank you for you ecellent, straightforward, intelligent, and common sense-type explanation. You show both the how and the why of issues that will avoid catastrophic results.
Thank you Matt, Used your method to tie down my mud buggy. Went a little nose heavy on my trailer. Didn't want to get trailer sway. Pulled it with my 08 dodge diesel. Thank you again for your insight
Happy to see you've updated your setup/methods from your previous video. Much better.
Great video Matt! I always load with a some tongue bias on my trailer. I have axle straps and 10,000 lbs rated ratchet tie downs with spring hooks. I also don't cross the straps. I put one on each corner. I hook to the axles. I also add a safety chain that is loosely hooked up in case of a collision I have an extra tether. I have welded on D-rings in multiple areas. I haul vehicles of all shapes and sizes so I need multiple ring locations for long wheel base vs short wheel base, etc. One thing I don't understand is people that tow trailers at 80 plus mph! Usually it's the camper crowd you see in the summer with a loaded half ton truck pulling a 26 ft camper and their family at 85 mph on the highway, not smart! I do about 65 mph max when I'm towing and leave plenty of braking room and an "out" when near other vehicles just in case. I can't remember how many times people will pull out in front of me and do something else stupid when I'm pulling a trailer.
I did get mine up to 85-90 once breifly... Lol. 3500 6.7 and it would have gone a lot faster too. I found out that cruise at 70 saves a LOT more fuel. LOL!
Towing in the winter, using an enclosed trailer with an aluminum deck, and Mac's straps setup for "through-the-wheel" holding. I had the car TIGHT. But jostling on the road was enough to get the car to slide a few inches side-to-side, and make light contact between the driver's door and the trailer fender. Never again! I DO cross the rear straps, and have additional anchors on the front floor which allow for low angle attachment of sports cars. Also, I tighten the rear straps first, so tension on them is added when the fronts are tightened. When hauling a pickup truck on an open trailer, I use six straps, with four of them being on the rear, each with a discrete anchor point. Last thing I need is a 7 thousand pound RAM 3500 getting loose and crushing through the stone guard in a crash.
Great Video. I used to do loadmaster duties and would have used different terms to explain the process, but your way was approachable, understandable and shows your experience. You are a great teacher and a wicked asset to the Jeeping Community! I've only EVER lost one load... it wasn't a Jeep... it was a sailboat. February 2014- my former assistant hooked up the trailer to the back of the truck, said 'huh, the tongue weight is a bit low'. Turns out, there was 1200lb of ice in the hull, all rearward of the single axle. Oops. 5 miles down the road, I saw the bow of the sailboat come UP in my rearview mirror... I pulled across the double yellow line (no oncoming traffic) and watched the sailboat and trailer pass me on the right... doing 50mph... across two lawns and 300 yards into a field in a massive wheelie - amazingly, not hitting the two houses it skirted or sustaining any damage! It took 2 4WD trucks over an hour to get the trailer and boat back to the roadside, and that was when we discovered it had filled with water, frozen,, and ahem,... changed the weight distribution. With 15 years experience in the marine industry I failed to remember the two golden rules - 1 , never trust the FNG, and #2 - use Matt's Rule of thumb before driving off!
"never trust the FNG" - LOL...This applies even more today post pandemic.
@@jdimeo1966 100% lol 😂😂
Finally! A great video on proper vehicle tie down method. Great job. And most important, no crisscross. Straight pulling straps!
Just bought a trailer last week and strapping was something I hadn’t done before on my cj this video helps a ton and right at the perfect time
I was motor transport in the Marines for 14 years, you ALWAYS want to cross your straps. Ideally you should form an X under the vehicle because not only is the front driver side strap pulling back but its also pulling to the passenger side. I've seen straight pull loads shift in a heavy wind and I've seen a trailer on its side (the towing vehicle hit an IED) and the loaded vehicle barely moved even though the whole rig was 90 degrees on its side.
Yup I agree , allways cross chain it prevents side to side motion👍🏽
@@chrisnielsen3562 yeah but if one of the chains gives, they both might as well be done so, then you are more screwed if you just had one of the straight ones fail or snap. You have to have a system where each of the wheel straps can be divided into a V on the trailer but that's on my tow truck. On strap on one wheel can keep it from going side to saide. I do this cause I'm always afraid of one of them failing. Ona trailer like this though I dont know how you would do that so you are probably right and crossing is best.
Until (hopefully not) a strap breaks.
If a strap breaks that way makes the vehicle essentially not strapped at all.
The way he did it you end up with a still solidly held vehicle, until notice and replace said strap.
He even does an example of that on another video
These are some excellent tips, especially about maintaining the strap ratchets with dry lube. The disagreement I have with your method is that spraying it all over when the strap is in place can affect the strap itself: you don't want lube on the straps, and the carrier (the wet "juice" that dries) in the lube can degrade the strap. It's far preferable to lube the mechanism without the strap in place and let it dry before fitting the strap back in.
String in a can works great to hold the jeep on!! lol One of your best videos, you are growing up and becoming a safe trailer queen, Proud of you man.
A truck driver gave me the tip to put one twist in the strap. He said it prevents the strap from getting loose plus if it does get loose you'll see it flapping where when the strap is flat it always flaps some in the wind and hard to tell when one starts to get a little loose. He also criss crosses his straps when hauling heavy equipment and his rig. I see both sides of that debate. I quit strapping to the axle/chassis even criss cross after I almost lost my circle track car. Welded some hook points on to use 4 tire straps and used them. Worked a lot better for that car and the trailer. The one thing I see with either strapping method is there isn't a lot of pure downward pressure. I think that having more downward pressure would be a good thing.
Excellent video. Great tips and tricks. We pretty much always use criss cross strapping on rear of all the classic cars we save and it works great. For the cars we save we've typically found on cars with motors we load them forward and pretty much line up the cars dash with the front of the trailers front tire ( just another tip that may help some) that usually is a good starting point of course depending on trailer size. Keep up the great videos. Thanks again from Street Freaks Garage. 👍
You just changed my mind on tie downs. Very informative video Matt!
All sounds pretty spot on. You have accelerating and braking straps and possibly ok securing a fairly small vehicle. We cross the straps to minimize centrifugal force, or simply put; cornering straps.
Very detailed thank you. I was looking for a video like this.
Excellent Video! Since watching your video, getting the weight properly balanced on a trailer is easy.
Thank you. You have informed me to the point that I am feeling better about towing a trailer with my wife’s car in it. If you have any coaching on that, I’d sure appreciate the help. I’ve got a two axle ATC aluminum trailer and my wife has a Porsche Boxster 718. The trailer was built to fit a race car. The trailer connectors are located to fit the race car and not for the Boxster.
Direct and full of useful information. Thanks!
As ALWAYS...very informative.. Love the sell of the WD 40 Dry Lube. Getting some today. Thks!
This is great. I just got a flatbed and put 37s on my ZJ. I wasn't sure how to safely get it tied down. THANKS!!!
Thanks for the video. Headed to Moab next week and I needed the refresher
Good video, simple straightforward and learned a few things👍
this is one of the best trailer videos I have found on UA-cam. Thanks for posting
This is by far the best way someone has explained this.
Thanks a lot, this is the most detail instruction ever.
Excellent video ! Thanks for sharing !! 👍🏼
Excellent video, thank you for sharing!
Thanks for posting this. Very helpful!!!
Very well explained. Appreciate it.
excellent points and very informative, thank you
Great video. Helped me tremendously.
Great video. Excellent tips. 👍
Thanks for sharing such a nice video , i learnt a lesson from my experience in towing car on a trailer i'd like to share , when you drive a car on the trailer or winch it up , the tow vehicle transmission should be in Neutral and the reason is to avoid any damage to the transmission , in this video focus on the tow vehicle at 03:10 you will see the tow vehicle being pushed by the Jeep and that's not good for the transmission , i use wheel chocks when not level ground
Towing Mishap: So this is more of a pulling rig than a trailer mishap, but I think it still counts. I have been towing for years with Ford E350 5.4L vans. Decent power and they weigh a lot so the trailer never wags the dog. One downside is the 2wd. So last winter I went to pick up a 1930 Ford AA doodlebug project. It was on the side of a frozen hill near a lake. Long story short, I was in a hurry and forgot my camera to film (mistake #1 always bring the camera!). I grabbed a buddy and we drove 1.5 hr to the get the doodlebug. Turns out it was straight up a grass covered dirt trail next to a ravine. There was no snow on the ground, but the ground was frozen under the grass. We get half way up the trail, get stuck, and start to slide backwards on the frozen ground. The trailer ends up jack-knifed on the edge of the ravine, and the van is so crossed up that the rt front is off the ground about 2 inches! I had to chain the van to a tree, strap the trailer to another tree, unhook it and my buddy and I had to drag the tongue out of the way to get the van back down the trail. We ended up rolling the doodlebug down the hill and then were able to back the van up enough to hook the trailer back up and pull it off the side of the ravine. By this time it was dark and we were just happy to be out of there with everything finally loaded up!
Awesome vid ! Thanks for posting.
Hey nice info Matt, once i have an 1989 mustang on a trailer, i hit a bump on the road at 45mph and one of the cargo belts went off, the tag gets below a tire, pulling the load to the rear with the luck it breaks on the road, that was a scary moment...
Great video. Two points I noticed. One is on vehicle loading aka engine towards the front or engine towards the rear. Normally you want the engine towards the front of the trailer but if say the vehicle is dead in the water and you have to winch it on backwards make sure you get the weight distribution correct still. That might mean the back of the tires will be really close to the tongue of the trailer. Second thing was about crossing straps. It is really good practice to do so. I have lost a vehicle off the trailer from side movement on a steel deck trailer and rain. It isn't common but trust me it's not fun trying to fix the issue specially if you are towing say a 100k car.
Never cross straps. If you’re concerned about a slick trailer add a set side straps.
@@shoffman75 been towing vehicles for 10yrs I just went to tire straps that give me a little bit of pull towards the outside of the trailer. Only issue is on a enclosed trailer you can't do that. So back to crossing straps
Another option for those that are lazy and don't check there straps if they are really anal about tying down a vehicle is to cross the straps or chains (forgot to mention that option) and then have a single strap pulling straight back on the axle. But that's Overkill. Anyways we can all bicker and banter about the subject some people went to schooling for transport stuff and where taught to x the straps some where taught to straight pull some where taught to wheel strap. I'm the end make sure you have at least one safety chain on the front of the rig and check the straps at fuel stops for slack or rips starting. In the end it's your ticket and bill if the vehicle comes loose and damages your trailer your vehicle or worse case causes a accident.
Something else just popped into my head. I know Matt said vehicle in park with e brake set but another dumb obvious idea is if it's 4wd put it in low range with hubs locked. Probably crossed his mind since he loads his rigs that way 🤣
jamesfkndean on an open trailer I would never cross straps. You’re asking for them to rub on one another. If one comes loose or breaks the other strap is immediately loose too. Straight pulls won’t have that effect. Another good reason is it’s against DOT in every state I ever hauled through.
Matt when he said " i dont use ramps. "
💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
"DO U EVEN JEEP BRO!!!"
Great video, but I will have to disagree a little on the cross of straps, there are pro's and con's of both.
Crossed straps: prevent sideways movement of the load (vehicle) due to the same reasons for triangulation is a suspension system. The Con to this is if you have a strap failure you will have a completely loose load.
Straight straps: you can get side movement which loosens straps and you get the same movement.
really the safest and most secure is deemed overkill by many and that is doing both, straight and crossed, that way you get rid of the cons of both conventions.
I claim to be no expert but have been hauling heavy equipment for years and was taught haw to tie down loads by professionals that haul 60k+ loads for a living
short distance I will 4 strap it in a crossed pattern, long distance I will do both straight and crossed
using straight and crossed is how I was trained to do this as well - and for commercial loads this was an every-time practice. When I'm towing my own stuff, it depends on the load and the road - or how lazy I'm being. Personally, I NEVER run only crossed straps. If it is one or the other, I always go straight down to a D ring.
You hit the nail on the head. Most people laugh at me. However, I practice this exact same method using straight + crossed to secure tractors and vehicles. Gives me satisfaction having piece of mind. I also enjoy using chains for most applications.
Great video! The only thing is, I wouldn't suggest attaching the straps to the frame because as your going down the road the suspension can cause the straps to loosen and/or make a shock load on them which could cause them to fail over time. Also, some people suggest 2 non-adjustable tie downs as well as 2 adjustable tie downs. I'm not sure why, it's just what I've seen in professional towing.
Nobody suggested strapping down to the frame. That’s never the right way.
Strap chain anchor work very well.
Good video, as usual Matt, Thanks!
A couple things to consider. Nylon straps work great for tying down your rig, but they can stretch, so be sure to check them often while you're trailering.
Also, because nylon does stretch, the longer your strap is, the more stretch you're going to encounter. Try to make your attachment points as close as reasonably possible to your axles so you can keep the straps nice and short.
Nylon should never be used for tie downs. Polyester or other that doesn't stretch. DOT does not allow nylon.
@@DarrellW45 Well you better tell the 1000s of Semi's hauling multi tons of cargo secured with nylon straps. Not to mention all the motorcycles, atv, etc...
Oh, and while you're at it, don't forget to tell the Military!
Nylons straps have been used to secure loads for longer than I've been alive, and i'm pretty old. It's not the strap that's the problem, it's the person securing the load. Same problem with chains.
@@slopsec2358 think you're the one that needs to check I've rigged thousands of tons professionally since the 60s. A lot with nylon for lifting. Kevlar is thing for years now for rigging. Much different for tieing down. You need th check those truck tie downs. People tend to call them nylon but they aren't. Nylon is not allowed by by DOT for truck or trailer tie downs. Most of the fabric tie down straps are polyester because it doesn't stretch like nylon.
@@DarrellW45 Please post the link where the DOT prohibits them.
My worst trailering mishap was with my figure 8 cars. I forget what was wrong with my trailer but I was using the trailer of my pit crew boss. It was made from the over cab part of a old car hauler and had the full width tie down bar that was tightened with a long bar. The rear one came undone, the car rolled forward and came to rest with the tounge jack between the fan and radiator. It took about an hour to fix. I ended up winning my heat and second in the feature.
Thanks for a fantastic video.
Very informative video. Thank you
Great info
I learned something today, thanks for sharing!!! =)
Excellent video
Great info. Thanks!!!
The only thing I would add is... "Stop frequently during your drive to check you straps!!!' Some say every 100 miles or so. The load could shift or change and stopping to check could catch a potential nightmare. It'll drive your passengers crazy stopping all the time but when you arrive safely you can breathe a sigh of relief.
This helped, the chain over axle broke my arb line. Like the axle strap solution.
My friend and I have the argument all the time about whether to cross straps or not, I personally don't and he always has. To each their own. I used to use my winch for a hold down on the front. But no more. 👌
Great video / info...for someone new to this! 👊🏼👍
Great video. Thank you
I like to chain the front, and back away to tension the chains, then use straps in the rear. Chain is tough, At times I also use chain with binders in the rear too.
Excellent video, Matt. Very complete, and lots of important info. Sorry, I don't have any stupid stories to share... except maybe the time when I ran over an "alligator" on the way to the rubicon and it flattened one of the trailer tires... but that's just another story for another time... Ha ha ha.
🐊🚙
Thanks. Great video - not a lot of good ones out there on topic. Question. New to this... Need to haul older 2WD PU Truck. What are my best options in the front? I'm looking at the frame, but it is high up enough the straps will likely hit the plastic fascia if I go that route.
Few observations: I don’t put in park until all the straps are tight. So I’m not putting pressure on that little park pawl. Also, hook up as in the hooks face up. Great tutorial.
I use string to hold my tractor on my trailer, it only slides off sometimes.....
oldreliable303 Justin Scott hahaha only sometimes is bad at all
Matt I hate to break it to you that alot of states make you cross strap for good reason. You might not have had it happen but cross strapping keeps it from moving side to side. Also yo uh should always stop after the first 50 miles to check your straps to make sure they haven't come loose
I just commented with my reasoning above in a pinned comment...
Great video
Oh my god dude you are THE BEST teacher ever. Thanks for
I have driven car carriers and low loaders with heavy earth moving equipment for many years all over Australia and always where possible I cross strap if you only strap back and front the vehicle can and does move side ways, NEVER lubricate the pawl and locking mechanism with the straps attached it can cause the strap to slip through and although the strap is synthetic it will sometimes breakdown when in contact with lubricants. NEVER tie down to the chassis or frame as the up and down jerking movement of the suspension may cause the straps or chains to break or come loose.
Fantastic video!
Lifting the rear of the truck is not the worst , its the death shake side to side. Usually going downhill or during decelerating.
That piece you were referring to between the trl. Axles was called a rocker box.
I don't anchor from my axles. I anchor from the frame, keeps the body from bouncing up and down or sideways. I also anchor front and rear AND CENTER ON BOTH SIDES. I use six point anchor points.
@bleepinjeep , How long and wide is your trailer? My jeep is 90" wide and im debating on getting a 96"W x 20' L deck over vs lowered deck w/ drive over fenders. I dont want a 102" wide trailer, and I also dont want my jeep parked on top of the fenders when secured. A deck over seems high at 30" off the ground, but I would have access to the entire deck width for the jeep, (2) ATVs, gear, etc... Ill be making a decision in a couple of weeks. My jeep hasnt seen a trailer since the 1-tons and 40's got installed. It will be nice to get back to traveling to parks and trails again. Good times ahead!
My tip would be after your sure you good the first time with a new trailer or rig take a short 5 or 10 mile test drive and stop actually check everything you were sure about. Check and re check
A.W. Koonce I went wheeling with one of my friends a few weeks ago and we loaded his truck back on the trailer then we drove down the trail to the main road and he pulled over to recheck his straps. We were able to get two or three extra clicks out of them. It never hurts to check
@@danieldavidson8149 I helped a friend pick up a new to him cj/yj franknjeep a year ago we didn't stop and recheck anything 150 miles later we discovered we lost one the ramps on borrowed trailer never ever again
Thanks!
Nice trailer!
Good job
You covered everything good video
Thanks
I have a torsion axle trailer instead of leaf springs
How do I determine level loading in this case?
By the way excellent video and explanation of how to load a leaf spring trailer !!!
good video! very nice.
Thanks 🙏
You need a larger tow vehicle. 👌 Definitely.
What about for standard vehicles? Is e track and tire Straps that cover entire top of tire a good method?
great tips. safety second. the only issue i have is if you ratchet up too much strap in the ratchet mechanism it can push open the locking mechanism and cause your ratchet strap to open on its own. you need to double check that there isn’t too much strap wound up on the reel.
ya, dont do that!
I like using at least one safety chain just as a last link to keep the vehicle on the trailer if all else fails. Thanks for the video great job. The trailer in the video is it a PJ buggy trailer by any chance?
Hey bleepin Matt, how much is the combined weight (jeep & trailer)?
I’m trying to guess how much my XJ on a trailer would be and if I could tow it.
@bleepinJeep
Thanks for the video; I've been doing this for a few years myself, but always great to see and hear how others do it.
On that note, is there any reason why you guys (In the US, I'm in the UK) don't use Over Wheel Straps?
Over wheel straps work well for smaller tires, but once you get into 40"+ sizes theres too much movement.
Good video! 👍👍
best load securing video on youtube
What about tie down for yukon xl denali 2020? Same or different straps methods
Say that was great - Is there an advantage to using axle straps rather than wheel nets to tie to. I couldn't find any comments anywhere about this. I'm tying down a 56 Thunderbird.