Whats up guys, thanks for all your comments below, lets hear more trailering tips and tricks! I know everyone has their way of doing things and I'm sure the pro's don't agree either. I knew the crossing the straps comment was going to ruffle some feathers but let me explain why you shouldn't cross straps... Lets say you lose 1 crossed strap in the rear or it breaks, now your load is totally loose because the 1 remaining crossed strap in the rear has nothing to pull against and now your vehicle is just free to go wherever the heck it wants and since the strap was crossed and left to right and not front to back it also loosens the front straps as well when your vehicle slides forward.
It's going to be a never ending debate. Your logic is correct I've seen both. I guess it just depends how far you are hauling if you add cross straps with a straight pull strap if you want to be Overkill and not lose your rig. Or chains and binders (my personal favorite for my rigs but not cars)
Matt, this is one of those damned if you do, damned if you don't situations. I usually don't cross straps or chains, but sometimes do. Sometimes it works better for what you're hauling to have them crossed or straight. Sometimes strap or chain clearance is an issue with it one way or the other and depending on the angle it is pulling down to the trailer, I prefer to cross and sometimes I prefer it pulling straight. Your video hit the nail on the head, don't half ass it, and be smart. Secure that vehicle properly so you don't kill someone or yourself. Thanks for the videos as always!
I here what you are saying this is more of a reason to inspect straps and or chains then not to cross strap. This is also why you don't drive 8 hrs straight without periodically checking your load securement.
It's not JUST a lesson in checking your straps. It is good practice to do so, but sometimes things can fail without any visible signs before. It IS a lesson in redundancy. Two straps both doing essentially the same thing gives you redundancy. This is not something that is up for debate, or that there is multiple ways of doing right. If you, for some reason want to cross straps, then use 4 of them at the back, because that's the only way you will have redundancy with that setup. Just take a page from the aerospace industry, redundancy is life. This is the ONLY way to do it, end of story.
I love UA-cam and all the ppl who post videos as someone who never had a father figure to show me this stuff I’ve learned so much from other men willing to share their knowledge thank you so much 🙏
You have come quite a ways since your early videos, Matt! You've learned a lot along the way, and taught us all a lot as well. Thanks for making this video, as there are far too many people out there towing unsafely going off misinformation they find elsewhere on the interwebs or from their "friends". You demonstrated the proper method of tying down a vehicle onto a trailer perfectly. I would just like to expand on your excellent point on NOT crossing the straps side to side: Crossing them, or angling them to the sides in any way AT ALL eliminates the redundant safety factor of having two straps, as if/when one breaks, the remaining strap is now by itself, pulling to one side and is much longer than it would be if it was setup straight forward and backward. The load will now walk toward this strap, effectively loosening it.
Tried towing for the first time yesterday. Started with my little Honda for practice. Man did I get things wrong! I strapped it down like you would a flatbed load, luckily I put two out of four straps straight through the wheels on the car and was only going a short distance. The two I threw over the car were off in under a quarter mile. Never would’ve thought. Thank God I caught it instantly because of my experience driving class A flatbeds and checking my mirrors constantly. One guy drove past me just before I caught it and just gave me the thumbs up… what a Dick. That’s why I’m here watching your video. Thanks so much for all the info. Your video was very very helpful. I already feel safer and I haven’t even gotten outta bed yet 💀 Keep on truckin my man. Safe travels!
This video saved our butts! We had to load a work pick up on a flat bed trailer and drive it 350 miles. Neither of us had ever loaded a vehicle on a trailer let alone strapped one down. I totally would have strapped down the vehicle wrong and probably not safe. Luckily there was a farm supply store in the town we were stuck in. They had almost everything you mentioned using. We strapped it down like you showed. Got it from South Dakota to the dealership in Nebraska without any problems at all. Thanks so much for this video it again it saved our butts. We had zero stress about the vehicle on the trailer or our safety. Thanks so much!
Great Video. I used to do loadmaster duties and would have used different terms to explain the process, but your way was approachable, understandable and shows your experience. You are a great teacher and a wicked asset to the Jeeping Community! I've only EVER lost one load... it wasn't a Jeep... it was a sailboat. February 2014- my former assistant hooked up the trailer to the back of the truck, said 'huh, the tongue weight is a bit low'. Turns out, there was 1200lb of ice in the hull, all rearward of the single axle. Oops. 5 miles down the road, I saw the bow of the sailboat come UP in my rearview mirror... I pulled across the double yellow line (no oncoming traffic) and watched the sailboat and trailer pass me on the right... doing 50mph... across two lawns and 300 yards into a field in a massive wheelie - amazingly, not hitting the two houses it skirted or sustaining any damage! It took 2 4WD trucks over an hour to get the trailer and boat back to the roadside, and that was when we discovered it had filled with water, frozen,, and ahem,... changed the weight distribution. With 15 years experience in the marine industry I failed to remember the two golden rules - 1 , never trust the FNG, and #2 - use Matt's Rule of thumb before driving off!
Also,, vehicle being strapped,, ideally, vehicle in neutral so you’re not pulling against the parking pawl and the load is distributed without the strain and tension from the pawl trying to keep it from rolling. After it’s secured, then put it in park.
Hunter O'Connor Just tension the front and rear straps evenly, and it won’t be a problem. It’s pretty damn strong though. It’s designed the hold the entire weight of the vehicle on a hill. I’ve never had one break, or anyone else I know either for that matter.
That's exactly what the tow guy did when with my '73 Charger. He had me leave it in neutral until the car was secured, then he asked me to first put on the parking brake on then put the shifter into park (or 1st gear with a manual). If you ever see the little peg that holds an auto transmission in park, you would soon realize why you want as little pre-load force on it as possible.
I usually secure the load in neutral, then once everything is wrapped up I throw on the parking brake then toss the vehicle in Park (if an auto). All my rigs have manual transmissions, nothing the diameter of a pencil in an SM465 ;)
Great video Matt! I always load with a some tongue bias on my trailer. I have axle straps and 10,000 lbs rated ratchet tie downs with spring hooks. I also don't cross the straps. I put one on each corner. I hook to the axles. I also add a safety chain that is loosely hooked up in case of a collision I have an extra tether. I have welded on D-rings in multiple areas. I haul vehicles of all shapes and sizes so I need multiple ring locations for long wheel base vs short wheel base, etc. One thing I don't understand is people that tow trailers at 80 plus mph! Usually it's the camper crowd you see in the summer with a loaded half ton truck pulling a 26 ft camper and their family at 85 mph on the highway, not smart! I do about 65 mph max when I'm towing and leave plenty of braking room and an "out" when near other vehicles just in case. I can't remember how many times people will pull out in front of me and do something else stupid when I'm pulling a trailer.
I did get mine up to 85-90 once breifly... Lol. 3500 6.7 and it would have gone a lot faster too. I found out that cruise at 70 saves a LOT more fuel. LOL!
Good vid with plenty of tips. I've been towing off and on for years and your tip about checking the pivot point between the trailer tires is new to me and makes excellent sense. It's something I'll start doing for sure! The reasons I've heard for criss crossing the straps or going straight seem to be 50-50. On the front I use over the wheel type straps. The rear axle I criss cross to prevent the vehicle from sliding to the side. While this may not be necessary but since I often trailer through mountainous terrain with sometimes sharp curves, it makes me feel better. I'm also going to add E-track and thru the rim type straps for extra security. Especially for vehicles with manual trans, no brakes or others that can't be gear/ brake locked in place. I too spray WD 40 dry lube on my strap ratchets but I try not to get any of it on the straps material. After all, the purpose of a lubricant is to make something slippery. A possibly slippery strap should be avoided, IMHO.
I was motor transport in the Marines for 14 years, you ALWAYS want to cross your straps. Ideally you should form an X under the vehicle because not only is the front driver side strap pulling back but its also pulling to the passenger side. I've seen straight pull loads shift in a heavy wind and I've seen a trailer on its side (the towing vehicle hit an IED) and the loaded vehicle barely moved even though the whole rig was 90 degrees on its side.
@@chrisnielsen3562 yeah but if one of the chains gives, they both might as well be done so, then you are more screwed if you just had one of the straight ones fail or snap. You have to have a system where each of the wheel straps can be divided into a V on the trailer but that's on my tow truck. On strap on one wheel can keep it from going side to saide. I do this cause I'm always afraid of one of them failing. Ona trailer like this though I dont know how you would do that so you are probably right and crossing is best.
Until (hopefully not) a strap breaks. If a strap breaks that way makes the vehicle essentially not strapped at all. The way he did it you end up with a still solidly held vehicle, until notice and replace said strap. He even does an example of that on another video
On our last outing I sat back and let my son take lead to get the taste when I was there as back up. We had to go out retrieve a rollover that had went down a cliff. They had the Durango up and sitting for us but it was fun getting it on the trailer with the front end broken up. I have expanded steel on my ramps and knew dragging a screwed front end up them was going to hurt, so I bolted down 2x4's and another guy brought C channel that capped the wood. Anyways loading done and dodging oncoming traffic till we got to pavement, the vehicle sat nice. My trailer has a lot of D rings along each side from a machine shop who used my trailer to move some work they did. They needed to secure things and I ended up with way more than I need.
Towing in the winter, using an enclosed trailer with an aluminum deck, and Mac's straps setup for "through-the-wheel" holding. I had the car TIGHT. But jostling on the road was enough to get the car to slide a few inches side-to-side, and make light contact between the driver's door and the trailer fender. Never again! I DO cross the rear straps, and have additional anchors on the front floor which allow for low angle attachment of sports cars. Also, I tighten the rear straps first, so tension on them is added when the fronts are tightened. When hauling a pickup truck on an open trailer, I use six straps, with four of them being on the rear, each with a discrete anchor point. Last thing I need is a 7 thousand pound RAM 3500 getting loose and crushing through the stone guard in a crash.
A truck driver gave me the tip to put one twist in the strap. He said it prevents the strap from getting loose plus if it does get loose you'll see it flapping where when the strap is flat it always flaps some in the wind and hard to tell when one starts to get a little loose. He also criss crosses his straps when hauling heavy equipment and his rig. I see both sides of that debate. I quit strapping to the axle/chassis even criss cross after I almost lost my circle track car. Welded some hook points on to use 4 tire straps and used them. Worked a lot better for that car and the trailer. The one thing I see with either strapping method is there isn't a lot of pure downward pressure. I think that having more downward pressure would be a good thing.
These are some excellent tips, especially about maintaining the strap ratchets with dry lube. The disagreement I have with your method is that spraying it all over when the strap is in place can affect the strap itself: you don't want lube on the straps, and the carrier (the wet "juice" that dries) in the lube can degrade the strap. It's far preferable to lube the mechanism without the strap in place and let it dry before fitting the strap back in.
Great video. Two points I noticed. One is on vehicle loading aka engine towards the front or engine towards the rear. Normally you want the engine towards the front of the trailer but if say the vehicle is dead in the water and you have to winch it on backwards make sure you get the weight distribution correct still. That might mean the back of the tires will be really close to the tongue of the trailer. Second thing was about crossing straps. It is really good practice to do so. I have lost a vehicle off the trailer from side movement on a steel deck trailer and rain. It isn't common but trust me it's not fun trying to fix the issue specially if you are towing say a 100k car.
@@shoffman75 been towing vehicles for 10yrs I just went to tire straps that give me a little bit of pull towards the outside of the trailer. Only issue is on a enclosed trailer you can't do that. So back to crossing straps
Another option for those that are lazy and don't check there straps if they are really anal about tying down a vehicle is to cross the straps or chains (forgot to mention that option) and then have a single strap pulling straight back on the axle. But that's Overkill. Anyways we can all bicker and banter about the subject some people went to schooling for transport stuff and where taught to x the straps some where taught to straight pull some where taught to wheel strap. I'm the end make sure you have at least one safety chain on the front of the rig and check the straps at fuel stops for slack or rips starting. In the end it's your ticket and bill if the vehicle comes loose and damages your trailer your vehicle or worse case causes a accident.
Something else just popped into my head. I know Matt said vehicle in park with e brake set but another dumb obvious idea is if it's 4wd put it in low range with hubs locked. Probably crossed his mind since he loads his rigs that way 🤣
jamesfkndean on an open trailer I would never cross straps. You’re asking for them to rub on one another. If one comes loose or breaks the other strap is immediately loose too. Straight pulls won’t have that effect. Another good reason is it’s against DOT in every state I ever hauled through.
All sounds pretty spot on. You have accelerating and braking straps and possibly ok securing a fairly small vehicle. We cross the straps to minimize centrifugal force, or simply put; cornering straps.
Great video, but I will have to disagree a little on the cross of straps, there are pro's and con's of both. Crossed straps: prevent sideways movement of the load (vehicle) due to the same reasons for triangulation is a suspension system. The Con to this is if you have a strap failure you will have a completely loose load. Straight straps: you can get side movement which loosens straps and you get the same movement. really the safest and most secure is deemed overkill by many and that is doing both, straight and crossed, that way you get rid of the cons of both conventions. I claim to be no expert but have been hauling heavy equipment for years and was taught haw to tie down loads by professionals that haul 60k+ loads for a living short distance I will 4 strap it in a crossed pattern, long distance I will do both straight and crossed
using straight and crossed is how I was trained to do this as well - and for commercial loads this was an every-time practice. When I'm towing my own stuff, it depends on the load and the road - or how lazy I'm being. Personally, I NEVER run only crossed straps. If it is one or the other, I always go straight down to a D ring.
You hit the nail on the head. Most people laugh at me. However, I practice this exact same method using straight + crossed to secure tractors and vehicles. Gives me satisfaction having piece of mind. I also enjoy using chains for most applications.
Thank you Matt, Used your method to tie down my mud buggy. Went a little nose heavy on my trailer. Didn't want to get trailer sway. Pulled it with my 08 dodge diesel. Thank you again for your insight
Great info. I use 4 like you did and also put a strap on each rock slider to tie down the body side to side. Helps keep the jeeps body weight shifting from pulling the trailer over in a panic situation on the road.
Good video, as usual Matt, Thanks! A couple things to consider. Nylon straps work great for tying down your rig, but they can stretch, so be sure to check them often while you're trailering. Also, because nylon does stretch, the longer your strap is, the more stretch you're going to encounter. Try to make your attachment points as close as reasonably possible to your axles so you can keep the straps nice and short.
@@DarrellW45 Well you better tell the 1000s of Semi's hauling multi tons of cargo secured with nylon straps. Not to mention all the motorcycles, atv, etc... Oh, and while you're at it, don't forget to tell the Military! Nylons straps have been used to secure loads for longer than I've been alive, and i'm pretty old. It's not the strap that's the problem, it's the person securing the load. Same problem with chains.
@@slopsec2358 think you're the one that needs to check I've rigged thousands of tons professionally since the 60s. A lot with nylon for lifting. Kevlar is thing for years now for rigging. Much different for tieing down. You need th check those truck tie downs. People tend to call them nylon but they aren't. Nylon is not allowed by by DOT for truck or trailer tie downs. Most of the fabric tie down straps are polyester because it doesn't stretch like nylon.
Great video! The only thing is, I wouldn't suggest attaching the straps to the frame because as your going down the road the suspension can cause the straps to loosen and/or make a shock load on them which could cause them to fail over time. Also, some people suggest 2 non-adjustable tie downs as well as 2 adjustable tie downs. I'm not sure why, it's just what I've seen in professional towing.
Matt I hate to break it to you that alot of states make you cross strap for good reason. You might not have had it happen but cross strapping keeps it from moving side to side. Also yo uh should always stop after the first 50 miles to check your straps to make sure they haven't come loose
Towing Mishap: So this is more of a pulling rig than a trailer mishap, but I think it still counts. I have been towing for years with Ford E350 5.4L vans. Decent power and they weigh a lot so the trailer never wags the dog. One downside is the 2wd. So last winter I went to pick up a 1930 Ford AA doodlebug project. It was on the side of a frozen hill near a lake. Long story short, I was in a hurry and forgot my camera to film (mistake #1 always bring the camera!). I grabbed a buddy and we drove 1.5 hr to the get the doodlebug. Turns out it was straight up a grass covered dirt trail next to a ravine. There was no snow on the ground, but the ground was frozen under the grass. We get half way up the trail, get stuck, and start to slide backwards on the frozen ground. The trailer ends up jack-knifed on the edge of the ravine, and the van is so crossed up that the rt front is off the ground about 2 inches! I had to chain the van to a tree, strap the trailer to another tree, unhook it and my buddy and I had to drag the tongue out of the way to get the van back down the trail. We ended up rolling the doodlebug down the hill and then were able to back the van up enough to hook the trailer back up and pull it off the side of the ravine. By this time it was dark and we were just happy to be out of there with everything finally loaded up!
Thank you for you ecellent, straightforward, intelligent, and common sense-type explanation. You show both the how and the why of issues that will avoid catastrophic results.
My tip would be after your sure you good the first time with a new trailer or rig take a short 5 or 10 mile test drive and stop actually check everything you were sure about. Check and re check
A.W. Koonce I went wheeling with one of my friends a few weeks ago and we loaded his truck back on the trailer then we drove down the trail to the main road and he pulled over to recheck his straps. We were able to get two or three extra clicks out of them. It never hurts to check
@@danieldavidson8149 I helped a friend pick up a new to him cj/yj franknjeep a year ago we didn't stop and recheck anything 150 miles later we discovered we lost one the ramps on borrowed trailer never ever again
Few observations: I don’t put in park until all the straps are tight. So I’m not putting pressure on that little park pawl. Also, hook up as in the hooks face up. Great tutorial.
The only thing I would add is... "Stop frequently during your drive to check you straps!!!' Some say every 100 miles or so. The load could shift or change and stopping to check could catch a potential nightmare. It'll drive your passengers crazy stopping all the time but when you arrive safely you can breathe a sigh of relief.
Thank you. You have informed me to the point that I am feeling better about towing a trailer with my wife’s car in it. If you have any coaching on that, I’d sure appreciate the help. I’ve got a two axle ATC aluminum trailer and my wife has a Porsche Boxster 718. The trailer was built to fit a race car. The trailer connectors are located to fit the race car and not for the Boxster.
I have driven car carriers and low loaders with heavy earth moving equipment for many years all over Australia and always where possible I cross strap if you only strap back and front the vehicle can and does move side ways, NEVER lubricate the pawl and locking mechanism with the straps attached it can cause the strap to slip through and although the strap is synthetic it will sometimes breakdown when in contact with lubricants. NEVER tie down to the chassis or frame as the up and down jerking movement of the suspension may cause the straps or chains to break or come loose.
Excellent video. Great tips and tricks. We pretty much always use criss cross strapping on rear of all the classic cars we save and it works great. For the cars we save we've typically found on cars with motors we load them forward and pretty much line up the cars dash with the front of the trailers front tire ( just another tip that may help some) that usually is a good starting point of course depending on trailer size. Keep up the great videos. Thanks again from Street Freaks Garage. 👍
Thanks for sharing such a nice video , i learnt a lesson from my experience in towing car on a trailer i'd like to share , when you drive a car on the trailer or winch it up , the tow vehicle transmission should be in Neutral and the reason is to avoid any damage to the transmission , in this video focus on the tow vehicle at 03:10 you will see the tow vehicle being pushed by the Jeep and that's not good for the transmission , i use wheel chocks when not level ground
My worst trailering mishap was with my figure 8 cars. I forget what was wrong with my trailer but I was using the trailer of my pit crew boss. It was made from the over cab part of a old car hauler and had the full width tie down bar that was tightened with a long bar. The rear one came undone, the car rolled forward and came to rest with the tounge jack between the fan and radiator. It took about an hour to fix. I ended up winning my heat and second in the feature.
You want the straps angled so they pull against each other. This prevents the load shifting to the side. I always cross my straps due to the short length of the straps but at least have them angled enough to the side to prevent movement. Straight straps on a rubber tired vehicle can rotate and allow the load to shift
I generally try to attach to the frame or bumpers. I had a 32 foot trailer and pulled 2 vehicles on it all over the country and never had a problem attaching to frame and bumpers. I actually had an accidental attaching to the axles. The trailer started swaying and the body of the vehicle exaggerated the sway and it ended up spinning a 72 IH 3/4 truck sideways down an Interstate with an 18 wheeler coming right at me. Luckily when I came to rest the engine was running and floored it for the ditch. That was almost 30 years ago and because of that I've gotten a lot more careful about loading and trailer safety. Don't skimp on trailers and towing vehicle, its not worth it. I've had a 32 foot gooseneck trailer and pulled 2 vehicles on it all over the country and never had a problem attaching to frame and bumpers. I had a vehicle transportation business for several years, I'd guess somewhere in the 100k mile ballpark towing vehicles from Suzuki samurai to crew cab F450's. I alway stop within the first 30 minutes and double check all the straps. I prefer not to cross straps but sometimes I've had to due to the length of the vehicle vs trailer length. The straps don't get short enough so you have to cross them. I've been out of wheeling for a while, my kids are grown and out on their own so I'm getting the itch to get back on the trails.
great tips. safety second. the only issue i have is if you ratchet up too much strap in the ratchet mechanism it can push open the locking mechanism and cause your ratchet strap to open on its own. you need to double check that there isn’t too much strap wound up on the reel.
you get more pull out of your ratchet the less is on the drum same as a winch, and a couple wraps quickly doubles the size of the drum, i hauled equipment commercially and always pulled all the slack, never had a strap so tight i didnt get a full wrap though theres always some slack and flex in the system to pull out also consider your glass if youre pulling this down a dirt road a few miles to a trail head consider parking it on the trailer backwards or using something to cover the windshield, really depends on the tires/height/mudflaps of the tow vehicle
Lifting the rear of the truck is not the worst , its the death shake side to side. Usually going downhill or during decelerating. That piece you were referring to between the trl. Axles was called a rocker box.
My friend and I have the argument all the time about whether to cross straps or not, I personally don't and he always has. To each their own. I used to use my winch for a hold down on the front. But no more. 👌
I like to chain the front, and back away to tension the chains, then use straps in the rear. Chain is tough, At times I also use chain with binders in the rear too.
Hey nice info Matt, once i have an 1989 mustang on a trailer, i hit a bump on the road at 45mph and one of the cargo belts went off, the tag gets below a tire, pulling the load to the rear with the luck it breaks on the road, that was a scary moment...
I don't anchor from my axles. I anchor from the frame, keeps the body from bouncing up and down or sideways. I also anchor front and rear AND CENTER ON BOTH SIDES. I use six point anchor points.
Excellent video, Matt. Very complete, and lots of important info. Sorry, I don't have any stupid stories to share... except maybe the time when I ran over an "alligator" on the way to the rubicon and it flattened one of the trailer tires... but that's just another story for another time... Ha ha ha.
A tongue weight (I bought one, WeighSafe... but you can borrow one from a buddy maybe, too) is the best way to set yourself up on the trailer. Level on the trailer leafs probably still looks that way with the Jeep pulled all the way forward. Know your truck tow cap. Divide that by 10. Thats generally your truck tongue... 10 -15%. Get a hitch that is rated at or higher. Mine: Truck Tow Capacity 16500, Hitch 14500, Hitch Tongue 2200). Dont exceed any of these numbers. My jeep weighs 5400 loaded with gear full of fuel, trailer is a 20' steel deck 2400lbs dry... We'll call it 8k. I pull that Jeep up on the trailer until Im at 1400-1500lbs on the tongue. After 2 times, dont need the weight anymore... you got your parking spot. I cross straps but next time I'll try straight.... I have ratchets with a chain hook on the ratchet end and a chain/winch hook on the strap end. Use axle straps. Winch hook. Cross to the opposite corner stake pocket. Drop the chain hook from top to bottom in the stake pocket, pull it back up inside the rub rail and let it hang on the stake pocket hole so the chain is a U pulling itself tight when the ratchet is. The distance from the rrub rail to the deck rail wouldnt let it fall off. It could loosen, but not fall off. The chain is nice because no matter what direction its pointing, its not binding up the strap or hook. I know this is a Macs option but costs more. Mine are from an auto hauler supply house so mine arent macs.
Craziest towing story I pulled into a gas station in pismo beach California and a guy had a sand rail and a couple quads on a trailer so the way he had them situated was the quads were sideways all the way to the front of the trailer with one strap on the outside holding them down to the rails of the trailer and a strap tying them together in the middle and the sand rail was right up against them taking up the rest of the space of the trailer and both rear straps were hanging off the trailer like they came loose while he was driving so the only thing holding the Sandrail on was the two front straps that he had to the front end and the pressure of the Sandrail being pulled onto both quads on the front of the trailer with the rear end completely free to wiggle around and he said he drove four hours without checking his straps
I JUST LOAD MY CAN AM X3 ALL THE WAY TO THE FRONT BAR AND PUT IT ON PARK AND THATS IT NO TIE DOWNS JUST QUICK AND EASY. BEEN TOWING LIKE THAT FOR 3YRS NOT ONCE HAVE I HAD A CATASTROPHIC ACCIDENT YET. GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO BUDDY THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE IT FOR US THAT HAVE NO CLUE WHAT THE HELL WE'RE DOING.
One thing I do different is strap the chasis and pull it down till the shocks are compressed. With your method you leave room for a bouncy castle on a trailer. So I eliminate that possibility.
I generally do 4 axle grabs, criss crossed with chains and binders and then a front and rear body strap just to take the bounce out of the suspension and make the tow pig ride a little better. I've always been told that side to side movement is more likely than front to back so that's why I cross my chains.
Engaging the parking brake does nothing if the vehicle is in park. Proof here is watching your truck still move. Parking brake has no impact on front wheels. Engaging 4wd is the only way to lock all 4 tires from moving. A wheel chock is ok, but most ppl don’t have them, nor do they use them if they have them. 4wd is a must and the only way to ever load anything. If you’re cheap or uneducated and didn’t buy a 4wd truck, then have someone sit inside and hold the brake pedal so the truck doesn’t move.
The only thing I do in addition to pretty much this exact method is once all four straps are snug, but not all the way tight I put my vehicle that I am strapping down in neutral and release the emergency brake to finish tightening all my straps down, just to eliminate any potential binding From pulling on the vehicle with the straps during the final tightening process. Then I threw it back in gear and engaged the emergency brake again. Probably not necessary, but it makes me feel better that the straps are what is pulling against each other, not the strap fighting the parking brake on the vehicle, if that makes sense. Essentially making sure that the straps are the opposing forces and that the emergency brake and putting it in gear Just keeps the tires locked in place
IMO, There is a reason cargo ships use criss/cross-applesauce....to secure the load. You are only thinking about straight, on the road driving. If you drive enough you will learn anything can and does happen out on the road. The reason to cross...something, somewhere over is for a lateral force being applied and not having the weight shift on the trailer causing even more problems. Fall asleep, someone run you onto the shoulder etc...etc...and a hundred more.... those straps going only forward and rearward will allow that buggy to shift and to shift enough that if you would have saved yourself from having a wreck, you no longer can as the trailer is on 2 wheels, or the buggie is now half off the trailer and digging into the ground sending you further out of control. So consider a midship set of lateral straps or even front and rear axle ones. Nobody can avoid all accidents. Eventually someone on the road will put you in jeopardy and whether you can recover or have a wipe out could depend on if you took 15 more minutes to lash down a load properly. Just my 2 cents..... PS, I have logged over a million miles on the road in just about every vehicle type there is and I've seen some very odd wrecks.
robert singleton yeah, it's so there is force being applied to keep the load from moving forward and back as well as side to side. I always do 4 points on cars and trucks and have been hauling my crawler and other vehicles for years. I got lazy with a mower in another state and got stopped for only having 2 straps. Some states are strict and it's not a bad thing
Here's my frustration. Open hooks refuse to hold on to the ring they're attached to unless they're under tension. This is hard to do with one person when you have to walk to the other side of a trailer and thread the strap through the handle. I haven't found a store that carries ratchet straps with snap hooks and had to go online to find & get them. Has anyone come up with a simple hack for easily & quickly modifying an open "S" or "J" hook to stay on its attachment point until pressure can be applied?
Thanks. Great video - not a lot of good ones out there on topic. Question. New to this... Need to haul older 2WD PU Truck. What are my best options in the front? I'm looking at the frame, but it is high up enough the straps will likely hit the plastic fascia if I go that route.
I found an equally rated (10k lb) set but it's separate parts for ~170. 4 ratchet straps and 4 axle straps. I'd be interested to know how you like them tho. I was looking and it looks like Max has a newer version with the ratchet attached to the first hook instead of having the bit of strap in between.
@bleepinjeep , How long and wide is your trailer? My jeep is 90" wide and im debating on getting a 96"W x 20' L deck over vs lowered deck w/ drive over fenders. I dont want a 102" wide trailer, and I also dont want my jeep parked on top of the fenders when secured. A deck over seems high at 30" off the ground, but I would have access to the entire deck width for the jeep, (2) ATVs, gear, etc... Ill be making a decision in a couple of weeks. My jeep hasnt seen a trailer since the 1-tons and 40's got installed. It will be nice to get back to traveling to parks and trails again. Good times ahead!
I have a torsion axle trailer instead of leaf springs How do I determine level loading in this case? By the way excellent video and explanation of how to load a leaf spring trailer !!!
Whats up guys, thanks for all your comments below, lets hear more trailering tips and tricks! I know everyone has their way of doing things and I'm sure the pro's don't agree either. I knew the crossing the straps comment was going to ruffle some feathers but let me explain why you shouldn't cross straps... Lets say you lose 1 crossed strap in the rear or it breaks, now your load is totally loose because the 1 remaining crossed strap in the rear has nothing to pull against and now your vehicle is just free to go wherever the heck it wants and since the strap was crossed and left to right and not front to back it also loosens the front straps as well when your vehicle slides forward.
It's going to be a never ending debate. Your logic is correct I've seen both. I guess it just depends how far you are hauling if you add cross straps with a straight pull strap if you want to be Overkill and not lose your rig. Or chains and binders (my personal favorite for my rigs but not cars)
@@jamesfkndean never can have too many strap right? Run a set crossed and a set straight. Problem solved. Lol thanks for all the cool vids
Matt, this is one of those damned if you do, damned if you don't situations. I usually don't cross straps or chains, but sometimes do. Sometimes it works better for what you're hauling to have them crossed or straight. Sometimes strap or chain clearance is an issue with it one way or the other and depending on the angle it is pulling down to the trailer, I prefer to cross and sometimes I prefer it pulling straight. Your video hit the nail on the head, don't half ass it, and be smart. Secure that vehicle properly so you don't kill someone or yourself. Thanks for the videos as always!
I here what you are saying this is more of a reason to inspect straps and or chains then not to cross strap. This is also why you don't drive 8 hrs straight without periodically checking your load securement.
It's not JUST a lesson in checking your straps. It is good practice to do so, but sometimes things can fail without any visible signs before. It IS a lesson in redundancy. Two straps both doing essentially the same thing gives you redundancy. This is not something that is up for debate, or that there is multiple ways of doing right. If you, for some reason want to cross straps, then use 4 of them at the back, because that's the only way you will have redundancy with that setup. Just take a page from the aerospace industry, redundancy is life. This is the ONLY way to do it, end of story.
"I don't use ramps, but if you need ramps..." - Matt with a subtle flex.
best Matt flex ever haha
I didnt even use ramps to
Load my dads stock pickup when a brake line blew lol.
My tires arent that big, and I dont use the ramps either. Lol
I love UA-cam and all the ppl who post videos as someone who never had a father figure to show me this stuff I’ve learned so much from other men willing to share their knowledge thank you so much 🙏
Man I really feel this. The internet has been more of a father figure to me than anyone in my life, as strange as that might sound lol
As a truck driver hauling heavy equipment daily, i have to say, you sir have your shit together. Nice job !
You have come quite a ways since your early videos, Matt! You've learned a lot along the way, and taught us all a lot as well. Thanks for making this video, as there are far too many people out there towing unsafely going off misinformation they find elsewhere on the interwebs or from their "friends".
You demonstrated the proper method of tying down a vehicle onto a trailer perfectly. I would just like to expand on your excellent point on NOT crossing the straps side to side: Crossing them, or angling them to the sides in any way AT ALL eliminates the redundant safety factor of having two straps, as if/when one breaks, the remaining strap is now by itself, pulling to one side and is much longer than it would be if it was setup straight forward and backward. The load will now walk toward this strap, effectively loosening it.
Thanks man, you got it exactly, in fact I just left a pinned comment explaining this as well...
Tried towing for the first time yesterday. Started with my little Honda for practice. Man did I get things wrong! I strapped it down like you would a flatbed load, luckily I put two out of four straps straight through the wheels on the car and was only going a short distance. The two I threw over the car were off in under a quarter mile. Never would’ve thought. Thank God I caught it instantly because of my experience driving class A flatbeds and checking my mirrors constantly. One guy drove past me just before I caught it and just gave me the thumbs up… what a Dick. That’s why I’m here watching your video. Thanks so much for all the info. Your video was very very helpful. I already feel safer and I haven’t even gotten outta bed yet 💀
Keep on truckin my man. Safe travels!
This video saved our butts! We had to load a work pick up on a flat bed trailer and drive it 350 miles. Neither of us had ever loaded a vehicle on a trailer let alone strapped one down. I totally would have strapped down the vehicle wrong and probably not safe. Luckily there was a farm supply store in the town we were stuck in. They had almost everything you mentioned using. We strapped it down like you showed. Got it from South Dakota to the dealership in Nebraska without any problems at all. Thanks so much for this video it again it saved our butts. We had zero stress about the vehicle on the trailer or our safety. Thanks so much!
I never considered watching the trailer pivot point as a guide. Thanks. I like learning stuff. WD40 for the win!
Great Video. I used to do loadmaster duties and would have used different terms to explain the process, but your way was approachable, understandable and shows your experience. You are a great teacher and a wicked asset to the Jeeping Community! I've only EVER lost one load... it wasn't a Jeep... it was a sailboat. February 2014- my former assistant hooked up the trailer to the back of the truck, said 'huh, the tongue weight is a bit low'. Turns out, there was 1200lb of ice in the hull, all rearward of the single axle. Oops. 5 miles down the road, I saw the bow of the sailboat come UP in my rearview mirror... I pulled across the double yellow line (no oncoming traffic) and watched the sailboat and trailer pass me on the right... doing 50mph... across two lawns and 300 yards into a field in a massive wheelie - amazingly, not hitting the two houses it skirted or sustaining any damage! It took 2 4WD trucks over an hour to get the trailer and boat back to the roadside, and that was when we discovered it had filled with water, frozen,, and ahem,... changed the weight distribution. With 15 years experience in the marine industry I failed to remember the two golden rules - 1 , never trust the FNG, and #2 - use Matt's Rule of thumb before driving off!
"never trust the FNG" - LOL...This applies even more today post pandemic.
@@jdimeo1966 100% lol 😂😂
Also,, vehicle being strapped,, ideally, vehicle in neutral so you’re not pulling against the parking pawl and the load is distributed without the strain and tension from the pawl trying to keep it from rolling. After it’s secured, then put it in park.
Hunter O'Connor Just tension the front and rear straps evenly, and it won’t be a problem. It’s pretty damn strong though. It’s designed the hold the entire weight of the vehicle on a hill. I’ve never had one break, or anyone else I know either for that matter.
I think this might be a rule from 1960 when parking pawls must have been made of buttered toast.
That's exactly what the tow guy did when with my '73 Charger. He had me leave it in neutral until the car was secured, then he asked me to first put on the parking brake on then put the shifter into park (or 1st gear with a manual). If you ever see the little peg that holds an auto transmission in park, you would soon realize why you want as little pre-load force on it as possible.
@@stevenrice47 As I recall that piece of steel is only about the diameter of a pencil.
At least it was in a 72 Chrysler Newport (at over 4500 lbs.)
I usually secure the load in neutral, then once everything is wrapped up I throw on the parking brake then toss the vehicle in Park (if an auto). All my rigs have manual transmissions, nothing the diameter of a pencil in an SM465 ;)
Great video Matt! I always load with a some tongue bias on my trailer. I have axle straps and 10,000 lbs rated ratchet tie downs with spring hooks. I also don't cross the straps. I put one on each corner. I hook to the axles. I also add a safety chain that is loosely hooked up in case of a collision I have an extra tether. I have welded on D-rings in multiple areas. I haul vehicles of all shapes and sizes so I need multiple ring locations for long wheel base vs short wheel base, etc. One thing I don't understand is people that tow trailers at 80 plus mph! Usually it's the camper crowd you see in the summer with a loaded half ton truck pulling a 26 ft camper and their family at 85 mph on the highway, not smart! I do about 65 mph max when I'm towing and leave plenty of braking room and an "out" when near other vehicles just in case. I can't remember how many times people will pull out in front of me and do something else stupid when I'm pulling a trailer.
I did get mine up to 85-90 once breifly... Lol. 3500 6.7 and it would have gone a lot faster too. I found out that cruise at 70 saves a LOT more fuel. LOL!
Good vid with plenty of tips. I've been towing off and on for years and your tip about checking the pivot point between the trailer tires is new to me and makes excellent sense. It's something I'll start doing for sure! The reasons I've heard for criss crossing the straps or going straight seem to be 50-50. On the front I use over the wheel type straps. The rear axle I criss cross to prevent the vehicle from sliding to the side. While this may not be necessary but since I often trailer through mountainous terrain with sometimes sharp curves, it makes me feel better.
I'm also going to add E-track and thru the rim type straps for extra security. Especially for vehicles with manual trans, no brakes or others that can't be gear/ brake locked in place.
I too spray WD 40 dry lube on my strap ratchets but I try not to get any of it on the straps material. After all, the purpose of a lubricant is to make something slippery. A possibly slippery strap should be avoided, IMHO.
i use chain and binders, overkill but that doesn't matter when youre securing your investment
I used to load up bob cats and excavators. Chains and binders are no joke you can get something stupid tight with those.
Jesse Clavette better to over safe then to have your car come off on the highway
Chains might be required by law...check your state regulations. Also grade of chain for DOT legal.
No such thing as overkill when it comes to safety
What type of chains and binders please?, currently working on a project I have trailer but pending accessories thx 👍
I was motor transport in the Marines for 14 years, you ALWAYS want to cross your straps. Ideally you should form an X under the vehicle because not only is the front driver side strap pulling back but its also pulling to the passenger side. I've seen straight pull loads shift in a heavy wind and I've seen a trailer on its side (the towing vehicle hit an IED) and the loaded vehicle barely moved even though the whole rig was 90 degrees on its side.
Yup I agree , allways cross chain it prevents side to side motion👍🏽
@@chrisnielsen3562 yeah but if one of the chains gives, they both might as well be done so, then you are more screwed if you just had one of the straight ones fail or snap. You have to have a system where each of the wheel straps can be divided into a V on the trailer but that's on my tow truck. On strap on one wheel can keep it from going side to saide. I do this cause I'm always afraid of one of them failing. Ona trailer like this though I dont know how you would do that so you are probably right and crossing is best.
Until (hopefully not) a strap breaks.
If a strap breaks that way makes the vehicle essentially not strapped at all.
The way he did it you end up with a still solidly held vehicle, until notice and replace said strap.
He even does an example of that on another video
You need bigger straps if crossing them because it lowers their load rating.
On our last outing I sat back and let my son take lead to get the taste when I was there as back up. We had to go out retrieve a rollover that had went down a cliff. They had the Durango up and sitting for us but it was fun getting it on the trailer with the front end broken up. I have expanded steel on my ramps and knew dragging a screwed front end up them was going to hurt, so I bolted down 2x4's and another guy brought C channel that capped the wood. Anyways loading done and dodging oncoming traffic till we got to pavement, the vehicle sat nice. My trailer has a lot of D rings along each side from a machine shop who used my trailer to move some work they did. They needed to secure things and I ended up with way more than I need.
Towing in the winter, using an enclosed trailer with an aluminum deck, and Mac's straps setup for "through-the-wheel" holding. I had the car TIGHT. But jostling on the road was enough to get the car to slide a few inches side-to-side, and make light contact between the driver's door and the trailer fender. Never again! I DO cross the rear straps, and have additional anchors on the front floor which allow for low angle attachment of sports cars. Also, I tighten the rear straps first, so tension on them is added when the fronts are tightened. When hauling a pickup truck on an open trailer, I use six straps, with four of them being on the rear, each with a discrete anchor point. Last thing I need is a 7 thousand pound RAM 3500 getting loose and crushing through the stone guard in a crash.
A truck driver gave me the tip to put one twist in the strap. He said it prevents the strap from getting loose plus if it does get loose you'll see it flapping where when the strap is flat it always flaps some in the wind and hard to tell when one starts to get a little loose. He also criss crosses his straps when hauling heavy equipment and his rig. I see both sides of that debate. I quit strapping to the axle/chassis even criss cross after I almost lost my circle track car. Welded some hook points on to use 4 tire straps and used them. Worked a lot better for that car and the trailer. The one thing I see with either strapping method is there isn't a lot of pure downward pressure. I think that having more downward pressure would be a good thing.
for my first time towing, this was an amazingly helpful video! So glad I found this, and thank you so much
These are some excellent tips, especially about maintaining the strap ratchets with dry lube. The disagreement I have with your method is that spraying it all over when the strap is in place can affect the strap itself: you don't want lube on the straps, and the carrier (the wet "juice" that dries) in the lube can degrade the strap. It's far preferable to lube the mechanism without the strap in place and let it dry before fitting the strap back in.
Great video. Two points I noticed. One is on vehicle loading aka engine towards the front or engine towards the rear. Normally you want the engine towards the front of the trailer but if say the vehicle is dead in the water and you have to winch it on backwards make sure you get the weight distribution correct still. That might mean the back of the tires will be really close to the tongue of the trailer. Second thing was about crossing straps. It is really good practice to do so. I have lost a vehicle off the trailer from side movement on a steel deck trailer and rain. It isn't common but trust me it's not fun trying to fix the issue specially if you are towing say a 100k car.
Never cross straps. If you’re concerned about a slick trailer add a set side straps.
@@shoffman75 been towing vehicles for 10yrs I just went to tire straps that give me a little bit of pull towards the outside of the trailer. Only issue is on a enclosed trailer you can't do that. So back to crossing straps
Another option for those that are lazy and don't check there straps if they are really anal about tying down a vehicle is to cross the straps or chains (forgot to mention that option) and then have a single strap pulling straight back on the axle. But that's Overkill. Anyways we can all bicker and banter about the subject some people went to schooling for transport stuff and where taught to x the straps some where taught to straight pull some where taught to wheel strap. I'm the end make sure you have at least one safety chain on the front of the rig and check the straps at fuel stops for slack or rips starting. In the end it's your ticket and bill if the vehicle comes loose and damages your trailer your vehicle or worse case causes a accident.
Something else just popped into my head. I know Matt said vehicle in park with e brake set but another dumb obvious idea is if it's 4wd put it in low range with hubs locked. Probably crossed his mind since he loads his rigs that way 🤣
jamesfkndean on an open trailer I would never cross straps. You’re asking for them to rub on one another. If one comes loose or breaks the other strap is immediately loose too. Straight pulls won’t have that effect. Another good reason is it’s against DOT in every state I ever hauled through.
Finally! A great video on proper vehicle tie down method. Great job. And most important, no crisscross. Straight pulling straps!
All sounds pretty spot on. You have accelerating and braking straps and possibly ok securing a fairly small vehicle. We cross the straps to minimize centrifugal force, or simply put; cornering straps.
Great video, but I will have to disagree a little on the cross of straps, there are pro's and con's of both.
Crossed straps: prevent sideways movement of the load (vehicle) due to the same reasons for triangulation is a suspension system. The Con to this is if you have a strap failure you will have a completely loose load.
Straight straps: you can get side movement which loosens straps and you get the same movement.
really the safest and most secure is deemed overkill by many and that is doing both, straight and crossed, that way you get rid of the cons of both conventions.
I claim to be no expert but have been hauling heavy equipment for years and was taught haw to tie down loads by professionals that haul 60k+ loads for a living
short distance I will 4 strap it in a crossed pattern, long distance I will do both straight and crossed
using straight and crossed is how I was trained to do this as well - and for commercial loads this was an every-time practice. When I'm towing my own stuff, it depends on the load and the road - or how lazy I'm being. Personally, I NEVER run only crossed straps. If it is one or the other, I always go straight down to a D ring.
You hit the nail on the head. Most people laugh at me. However, I practice this exact same method using straight + crossed to secure tractors and vehicles. Gives me satisfaction having piece of mind. I also enjoy using chains for most applications.
This is by far the best way someone has explained this.
Happy to see you've updated your setup/methods from your previous video. Much better.
Thank you Matt, Used your method to tie down my mud buggy. Went a little nose heavy on my trailer. Didn't want to get trailer sway. Pulled it with my 08 dodge diesel. Thank you again for your insight
5 years later and still a helpful video.
Great info. I use 4 like you did and also put a strap on each rock slider to tie down the body side to side. Helps keep the jeeps body weight shifting from pulling the trailer over in a panic situation on the road.
Good video, as usual Matt, Thanks!
A couple things to consider. Nylon straps work great for tying down your rig, but they can stretch, so be sure to check them often while you're trailering.
Also, because nylon does stretch, the longer your strap is, the more stretch you're going to encounter. Try to make your attachment points as close as reasonably possible to your axles so you can keep the straps nice and short.
Nylon should never be used for tie downs. Polyester or other that doesn't stretch. DOT does not allow nylon.
@@DarrellW45 Well you better tell the 1000s of Semi's hauling multi tons of cargo secured with nylon straps. Not to mention all the motorcycles, atv, etc...
Oh, and while you're at it, don't forget to tell the Military!
Nylons straps have been used to secure loads for longer than I've been alive, and i'm pretty old. It's not the strap that's the problem, it's the person securing the load. Same problem with chains.
@@slopsec2358 think you're the one that needs to check I've rigged thousands of tons professionally since the 60s. A lot with nylon for lifting. Kevlar is thing for years now for rigging. Much different for tieing down. You need th check those truck tie downs. People tend to call them nylon but they aren't. Nylon is not allowed by by DOT for truck or trailer tie downs. Most of the fabric tie down straps are polyester because it doesn't stretch like nylon.
@@DarrellW45 Please post the link where the DOT prohibits them.
Great video! The only thing is, I wouldn't suggest attaching the straps to the frame because as your going down the road the suspension can cause the straps to loosen and/or make a shock load on them which could cause them to fail over time. Also, some people suggest 2 non-adjustable tie downs as well as 2 adjustable tie downs. I'm not sure why, it's just what I've seen in professional towing.
Nobody suggested strapping down to the frame. That’s never the right way.
Matt I hate to break it to you that alot of states make you cross strap for good reason. You might not have had it happen but cross strapping keeps it from moving side to side. Also yo uh should always stop after the first 50 miles to check your straps to make sure they haven't come loose
I just commented with my reasoning above in a pinned comment...
Towing Mishap: So this is more of a pulling rig than a trailer mishap, but I think it still counts. I have been towing for years with Ford E350 5.4L vans. Decent power and they weigh a lot so the trailer never wags the dog. One downside is the 2wd. So last winter I went to pick up a 1930 Ford AA doodlebug project. It was on the side of a frozen hill near a lake. Long story short, I was in a hurry and forgot my camera to film (mistake #1 always bring the camera!). I grabbed a buddy and we drove 1.5 hr to the get the doodlebug. Turns out it was straight up a grass covered dirt trail next to a ravine. There was no snow on the ground, but the ground was frozen under the grass. We get half way up the trail, get stuck, and start to slide backwards on the frozen ground. The trailer ends up jack-knifed on the edge of the ravine, and the van is so crossed up that the rt front is off the ground about 2 inches! I had to chain the van to a tree, strap the trailer to another tree, unhook it and my buddy and I had to drag the tongue out of the way to get the van back down the trail. We ended up rolling the doodlebug down the hill and then were able to back the van up enough to hook the trailer back up and pull it off the side of the ravine. By this time it was dark and we were just happy to be out of there with everything finally loaded up!
Thank you for you ecellent, straightforward, intelligent, and common sense-type explanation. You show both the how and the why of issues that will avoid catastrophic results.
Thank you so much!!! This was so helpful for me. I really appreciate you taking us through each step. Great stuff!!
I use string to hold my tractor on my trailer, it only slides off sometimes.....
oldreliable303 Justin Scott hahaha only sometimes is bad at all
My tip would be after your sure you good the first time with a new trailer or rig take a short 5 or 10 mile test drive and stop actually check everything you were sure about. Check and re check
A.W. Koonce I went wheeling with one of my friends a few weeks ago and we loaded his truck back on the trailer then we drove down the trail to the main road and he pulled over to recheck his straps. We were able to get two or three extra clicks out of them. It never hurts to check
@@danieldavidson8149 I helped a friend pick up a new to him cj/yj franknjeep a year ago we didn't stop and recheck anything 150 miles later we discovered we lost one the ramps on borrowed trailer never ever again
String in a can works great to hold the jeep on!! lol One of your best videos, you are growing up and becoming a safe trailer queen, Proud of you man.
This is great. I just got a flatbed and put 37s on my ZJ. I wasn't sure how to safely get it tied down. THANKS!!!
Matt when he said " i dont use ramps. "
💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
"DO U EVEN JEEP BRO!!!"
this is one of the best trailer videos I have found on UA-cam. Thanks for posting
Few observations: I don’t put in park until all the straps are tight. So I’m not putting pressure on that little park pawl. Also, hook up as in the hooks face up. Great tutorial.
The only thing I would add is... "Stop frequently during your drive to check you straps!!!' Some say every 100 miles or so. The load could shift or change and stopping to check could catch a potential nightmare. It'll drive your passengers crazy stopping all the time but when you arrive safely you can breathe a sigh of relief.
Thank you. You have informed me to the point that I am feeling better about towing a trailer with my wife’s car in it. If you have any coaching on that, I’d sure appreciate the help. I’ve got a two axle ATC aluminum trailer and my wife has a Porsche Boxster 718. The trailer was built to fit a race car. The trailer connectors are located to fit the race car and not for the Boxster.
I have driven car carriers and low loaders with heavy earth moving equipment for many years all over Australia and always where possible I cross strap if you only strap back and front the vehicle can and does move side ways, NEVER lubricate the pawl and locking mechanism with the straps attached it can cause the strap to slip through and although the strap is synthetic it will sometimes breakdown when in contact with lubricants. NEVER tie down to the chassis or frame as the up and down jerking movement of the suspension may cause the straps or chains to break or come loose.
Direct and full of useful information. Thanks!
Excellent video. Great tips and tricks. We pretty much always use criss cross strapping on rear of all the classic cars we save and it works great. For the cars we save we've typically found on cars with motors we load them forward and pretty much line up the cars dash with the front of the trailers front tire ( just another tip that may help some) that usually is a good starting point of course depending on trailer size. Keep up the great videos. Thanks again from Street Freaks Garage. 👍
Thanks for sharing such a nice video , i learnt a lesson from my experience in towing car on a trailer i'd like to share , when you drive a car on the trailer or winch it up , the tow vehicle transmission should be in Neutral and the reason is to avoid any damage to the transmission , in this video focus on the tow vehicle at 03:10 you will see the tow vehicle being pushed by the Jeep and that's not good for the transmission , i use wheel chocks when not level ground
You just changed my mind on tie downs. Very informative video Matt!
My worst trailering mishap was with my figure 8 cars. I forget what was wrong with my trailer but I was using the trailer of my pit crew boss. It was made from the over cab part of a old car hauler and had the full width tie down bar that was tightened with a long bar. The rear one came undone, the car rolled forward and came to rest with the tounge jack between the fan and radiator. It took about an hour to fix. I ended up winning my heat and second in the feature.
You want the straps angled so they pull against each other. This prevents the load shifting to the side. I always cross my straps due to the short length of the straps but at least have them angled enough to the side to prevent movement. Straight straps on a rubber tired vehicle can rotate and allow the load to shift
You need a larger tow vehicle. 👌 Definitely.
Just bought a trailer last week and strapping was something I hadn’t done before on my cj this video helps a ton and right at the perfect time
best load securing video on youtube
Excellent Video! Since watching your video, getting the weight properly balanced on a trailer is easy.
I generally try to attach to the frame or bumpers. I had a 32 foot trailer and pulled 2 vehicles on it all over the country and never had a problem attaching to frame and bumpers. I actually had an accidental attaching to the axles. The trailer started swaying and the body of the vehicle exaggerated the sway and it ended up spinning a 72 IH 3/4 truck sideways down an Interstate with an 18 wheeler coming right at me. Luckily when I came to rest the engine was running and floored it for the ditch. That was almost 30 years ago and because of that I've gotten a lot more careful about loading and trailer safety. Don't skimp on trailers and towing vehicle, its not worth it. I've had a 32 foot gooseneck trailer and pulled 2 vehicles on it all over the country and never had a problem attaching to frame and bumpers. I had a vehicle transportation business for several years, I'd guess somewhere in the 100k mile ballpark towing vehicles from Suzuki samurai to crew cab F450's. I alway stop within the first 30 minutes and double check all the straps.
I prefer not to cross straps but sometimes I've had to due to the length of the vehicle vs trailer length. The straps don't get short enough so you have to cross them. I've been out of wheeling for a while, my kids are grown and out on their own so I'm getting the itch to get back on the trails.
Great point on the extra body roll hazard of axle strapped vs frame.
Thanks for the video. Headed to Moab next week and I needed the refresher
great tips. safety second. the only issue i have is if you ratchet up too much strap in the ratchet mechanism it can push open the locking mechanism and cause your ratchet strap to open on its own. you need to double check that there isn’t too much strap wound up on the reel.
ya, dont do that!
Good video, simple straightforward and learned a few things👍
you get more pull out of your ratchet the less is on the drum same as a winch, and a couple wraps quickly doubles the size of the drum, i hauled equipment commercially and always pulled all the slack, never had a strap so tight i didnt get a full wrap though theres always some slack and flex in the system to pull out
also consider your glass if youre pulling this down a dirt road a few miles to a trail head consider parking it on the trailer backwards or using something to cover the windshield, really depends on the tires/height/mudflaps of the tow vehicle
not being critical this is a useful video just trying to add some info
ratchet strap manufacturers say 2 wraps of the strap is a must...
Lifting the rear of the truck is not the worst , its the death shake side to side. Usually going downhill or during decelerating.
That piece you were referring to between the trl. Axles was called a rocker box.
Good instructions and video. Thank you!
Oh my god dude you are THE BEST teacher ever. Thanks for
My friend and I have the argument all the time about whether to cross straps or not, I personally don't and he always has. To each their own. I used to use my winch for a hold down on the front. But no more. 👌
I very recently acquired a tow rig and about to start trailering my Jeep. This was very helpful. Thank you so much.
Ya no problem!
I like to chain the front, and back away to tension the chains, then use straps in the rear. Chain is tough, At times I also use chain with binders in the rear too.
Strap chain anchor work very well.
Hey nice info Matt, once i have an 1989 mustang on a trailer, i hit a bump on the road at 45mph and one of the cargo belts went off, the tag gets below a tire, pulling the load to the rear with the luck it breaks on the road, that was a scary moment...
I don't anchor from my axles. I anchor from the frame, keeps the body from bouncing up and down or sideways. I also anchor front and rear AND CENTER ON BOTH SIDES. I use six point anchor points.
excellent points and very informative, thank you
As ALWAYS...very informative.. Love the sell of the WD 40 Dry Lube. Getting some today. Thks!
Very well explained. Appreciate it.
Excellent video, Matt. Very complete, and lots of important info. Sorry, I don't have any stupid stories to share... except maybe the time when I ran over an "alligator" on the way to the rubicon and it flattened one of the trailer tires... but that's just another story for another time... Ha ha ha.
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Great video. Helped me tremendously.
A tongue weight (I bought one, WeighSafe... but you can borrow one from a buddy maybe, too) is the best way to set yourself up on the trailer. Level on the trailer leafs probably still looks that way with the Jeep pulled all the way forward. Know your truck tow cap. Divide that by 10. Thats generally your truck tongue... 10 -15%. Get a hitch that is rated at or higher. Mine: Truck Tow Capacity 16500, Hitch 14500, Hitch Tongue 2200). Dont exceed any of these numbers. My jeep weighs 5400 loaded with gear full of fuel, trailer is a 20' steel deck 2400lbs dry... We'll call it 8k. I pull that Jeep up on the trailer until Im at 1400-1500lbs on the tongue. After 2 times, dont need the weight anymore... you got your parking spot. I cross straps but next time I'll try straight.... I have ratchets with a chain hook on the ratchet end and a chain/winch hook on the strap end. Use axle straps. Winch hook. Cross to the opposite corner stake pocket. Drop the chain hook from top to bottom in the stake pocket, pull it back up inside the rub rail and let it hang on the stake pocket hole so the chain is a U pulling itself tight when the ratchet is. The distance from the rrub rail to the deck rail wouldnt let it fall off. It could loosen, but not fall off. The chain is nice because no matter what direction its pointing, its not binding up the strap or hook. I know this is a Macs option but costs more. Mine are from an auto hauler supply house so mine arent macs.
I have one word is '' WOW "
This helped, the chain over axle broke my arb line. Like the axle strap solution.
Thanks for posting this. Very helpful!!!
Craziest towing story I pulled into a gas station in pismo beach California and a guy had a sand rail and a couple quads on a trailer so the way he had them situated was the quads were sideways all the way to the front of the trailer with one strap on the outside holding them down to the rails of the trailer and a strap tying them together in the middle and the sand rail was right up against them taking up the rest of the space of the trailer and both rear straps were hanging off the trailer like they came loose while he was driving so the only thing holding the Sandrail on was the two front straps that he had to the front end and the pressure of the Sandrail being pulled onto both quads on the front of the trailer with the rear end completely free to wiggle around and he said he drove four hours without checking his straps
I JUST LOAD MY CAN AM X3 ALL THE WAY TO THE FRONT BAR AND PUT IT ON PARK AND THATS IT NO TIE DOWNS JUST QUICK AND EASY. BEEN TOWING LIKE THAT FOR 3YRS NOT ONCE HAVE I HAD A CATASTROPHIC ACCIDENT YET. GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO BUDDY THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE IT FOR US THAT HAVE NO CLUE WHAT THE HELL WE'RE DOING.
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Very informative video. Thank you
One thing I do different is strap the chasis and pull it down till the shocks are compressed. With your method you leave room for a bouncy castle on a trailer. So I eliminate that possibility.
Your rig must be really bouncy
Our roads here are just terrible.
I generally do 4 axle grabs, criss crossed with chains and binders and then a front and rear body strap just to take the bounce out of the suspension and make the tow pig ride a little better. I've always been told that side to side movement is more likely than front to back so that's why I cross my chains.
Engaging the parking brake does nothing if the vehicle is in park. Proof here is watching your truck still move. Parking brake has no impact on front wheels. Engaging 4wd is the only way to lock all 4 tires from moving. A wheel chock is ok, but most ppl don’t have them, nor do they use them if they have them. 4wd is a must and the only way to ever load anything. If you’re cheap or uneducated and didn’t buy a 4wd truck, then have someone sit inside and hold the brake pedal so the truck doesn’t move.
Awesome vid ! Thanks for posting.
That spring piece in the middle is called an equalizer thingy
dot requires you to criss cross your tie downs to keep load from shifting side to side
The only thing I do in addition to pretty much this exact method is once all four straps are snug, but not all the way tight I put my vehicle that I am strapping down in neutral and release the emergency brake to finish tightening all my straps down, just to eliminate any potential binding From pulling on the vehicle with the straps during the final tightening process. Then I threw it back in gear and engaged the emergency brake again. Probably not necessary, but it makes me feel better that the straps are what is pulling against each other, not the strap fighting the parking brake on the vehicle, if that makes sense. Essentially making sure that the straps are the opposing forces and that the emergency brake and putting it in gear Just keeps the tires locked in place
IMO,
There is a reason cargo ships use criss/cross-applesauce....to secure the load. You are only thinking about straight, on the road driving. If you drive enough you will learn anything can and does happen out on the road.
The reason to cross...something, somewhere over is for a lateral force being applied and not having the weight shift on the trailer causing even more problems. Fall asleep, someone run you onto the shoulder etc...etc...and a hundred more.... those straps going only forward and rearward will allow that buggy to shift and to shift enough that if you would have saved yourself from having a wreck, you no longer can as the trailer is on 2 wheels, or the buggie is now half off the trailer and digging into the ground sending you further out of control.
So consider a midship set of lateral straps or even front and rear axle ones.
Nobody can avoid all accidents. Eventually someone on the road will put you in jeopardy and whether you can recover or have a wipe out could depend on if you took 15 more minutes to lash down a load properly.
Just my 2 cents.....
PS, I have logged over a million miles on the road in just about every vehicle type there is and I've seen some very odd wrecks.
I believe the some states require straps to be crossed on vehicles...
robert singleton yeah, it's so there is force being applied to keep the load from moving forward and back as well as side to side. I always do 4 points on cars and trucks and have been hauling my crawler and other vehicles for years. I got lazy with a mower in another state and got stopped for only having 2 straps. Some states are strict and it's not a bad thing
Crossing is not BS. As rb says...side to side movement is prevented.
Excellent video Matt!
Not enough tongue weight and your truck and trailer will be swaying all over the lane. Very dangerous!
Put your truck in 4wd while loading in case the negative tongue weight lifts up your rear wheels
Here's my frustration. Open hooks refuse to hold on to the ring they're attached to unless they're under tension. This is hard to do with one person when you have to walk to the other side of a trailer and thread the strap through the handle. I haven't found a store that carries ratchet straps with snap hooks and had to go online to find & get them. Has anyone come up with a simple hack for easily & quickly modifying an open "S" or "J" hook to stay on its attachment point until pressure can be applied?
Thanks. Great video - not a lot of good ones out there on topic. Question. New to this... Need to haul older 2WD PU Truck. What are my best options in the front? I'm looking at the frame, but it is high up enough the straps will likely hit the plastic fascia if I go that route.
I've seen Soo many knuckleheads hook to the frame binding up the suspension!!!!!! Kills me!!! Thanks for the video Bleepin' Jeep!!!!
If you have a rig that sways a lot it could be a good idea but you gotta do it right...
@@bleepinjeep Right on Bleepin'!!!
If a rig with a ton of sway is an issue you should still strap the axles good and tight first. Then suck the suspension down.
@@jameskiceiii6856
Just bought the strap system 200$ shipped I hope it does better then my current setup well see
I found an equally rated (10k lb) set but it's separate parts for ~170. 4 ratchet straps and 4 axle straps.
I'd be interested to know how you like them tho. I was looking and it looks like Max has a newer version with the ratchet attached to the first hook instead of having the bit of strap in between.
Excellent video ! Thanks for sharing !! 👍🏼
@bleepinjeep , How long and wide is your trailer? My jeep is 90" wide and im debating on getting a 96"W x 20' L deck over vs lowered deck w/ drive over fenders. I dont want a 102" wide trailer, and I also dont want my jeep parked on top of the fenders when secured. A deck over seems high at 30" off the ground, but I would have access to the entire deck width for the jeep, (2) ATVs, gear, etc... Ill be making a decision in a couple of weeks. My jeep hasnt seen a trailer since the 1-tons and 40's got installed. It will be nice to get back to traveling to parks and trails again. Good times ahead!
I have a torsion axle trailer instead of leaf springs
How do I determine level loading in this case?
By the way excellent video and explanation of how to load a leaf spring trailer !!!
Very detailed thank you. I was looking for a video like this.
You covered everything good video