You'll like the linkbelt. The manufacturing company I worked for used only link belts everywhere in the plant. We had belts almost 100 feet long and they were running 24/7 and never had a problem.
you can get that belt at harbor freight. it's green in color. cost 25 dollars plus coupon. have them on all my machines. made a vacuum chuck for that lathe. putting a treadmill motor on it like my mini lathe. massive power!
Tom Wilcox Tom, Thanks for your comment. I have also purchased the green HF belt for my bandsaw, however the one carried here is not a 3L width amd too wide for use with the Reeves pulleys of the HF lathe and maintain the right RPMs. It would be awesome if or local stores carried the 3L version. Cheers!
"nice and quiet" - that's what made the sale! thanks! I have an old '47 Craftsman Drill Press, for some reason, older drill presses had much quieter operation, which I like. Now I need a belt, but didn't want to lost the treasured 'quiet' - this answered that. Thanks! ( 1st time visitor )
Thanks for visiting and commenting John! If you like the vids, please remember to share and subscribe - I don't monitize these, so no ads to wait through. Cheers!
Speed Selector makes variable speed pulleys that replace the Reeves, Hi-Lo, TB Woods and Lovejoy pulleys that went out of business or got bought. Most of the pulleys are in stock or Speed Selector will custom make if needed. They have an actual engineering department who were very helpful.
In a pinch, I've used that exact type and brand of link belt to form a 4 belt matched set powering a now very old Ramco 54" abrasive planer. They worked perfectly until the proper matched set could be acquired.
Appreciate the good videos, have you figured out a way to lock the spindle on the HF lathe so as to tighten things up without using a wrench as a stop?
Hi Bill, thanks for commenting, glad you found the videos useful ! I don't generally lock the spindle for my operations - nor do I typically use the wrench unless it's to remove a Chuck that gets stuck on the spindle. Most of the time I can thread either a faceplate or a a Chuck onto the spindle without the need to use the spindle lock. When I use a chuck with a worm screw, I generally mount that off the lathe and then hand tighten once on the spindle but only using the handwheel I added. Cheers!
Great video my grizzly G0462 is very noisy I'll try one ! Also I tried to find the hand wheel and need more info the 1236 number doesn't work with the website you got yours from I'm pretty sure it's the same as grizzly doesn't offer one any help with this will be much appreciated!
you put the belt on backwards it will work even better if you install it correctly. the belt is directional. it should have stores to indicate direction. but the tabs are supposed to face away from the movement or trail.
Jim Canady Hi Jim, you have a good eye, the belt was on backwards to start but if you watched the end you'll see that I got it turned around the right way. Ultimately found the arrows on the Belt. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching and commenting. For this lathe, it is a reduction in vibration caused by a solid belt in the Reeves drive, which means less vibration in te tool rest, etc. Cheers!
Is that a smith jones electric motor from Harbor freight ? If so what’s your take on it? I’m in the market for an electric motor for my old atlas drill press that I’m restoring but I don’t want to take a second mortgage on my house to get it.
Hi, yes, thats the Smith Jones on the band saw, and its been working great. I had to get new pulleys to reduce the speed because its a 3600 rpm, where the original 3/4 hp Delta motor was 1750 rpm. I saw up some pretty hefty logs intto bowl turning blanks with it no problem so I think it should work ok for a drill press. Cheers!
Great videos. Just subscribed. I have the same lathe and have a question about the hand wheel. I’ve been thinking about ordering that same part from Jet. Question is how do you remove the headstock center without using a push rod?
Hi Alec, thanks for watching and commenting. It may be possible to have a machine shop drill a through-hole in the handwheel to accommodate a rod. One alternative may be to use a strap wrench to loosen the drive center. Another alternative (which I selected) is to get a modular drive center set (such as the one sold by Penn State Industries) that has a base that threads onto the spindle and several sizes/types of drive center options, instead of using the spindle's MT2 - this set uses tommy bars to remove like a chuck instead of a knock-out rod. Link to the set at PSI: www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTSET.html. Cheers!
Hi Brad, thanks for watching and commenting. The link belt worked out great for the Reeves drive on this lathe, and was still going strong when I donated the lathe. Neither the belt nor the pulleys showed significant wear. Cheers!
Hello , Can I ask you something , did you notice any better grip somehow from the link belts ? The reason I am asking is cause I have the same kind of lathe and recently I put a 2 hp motor right under the original motor , I had put a pulley in the original motors front side where the fan is so I could keep the variable speed without the need of new axle and bearings . It worked great but the belt of the variable pulleys was spinning like crazy under load so I didn't really had any benefits . Would a link belt be better ? Do you thing it can transfer more power ?
Hi Antonis, my apologies for the delayed response, just now seeing your comment (thanks for watching and commenting!) I don't believe the belt slip issue is related to the type of belt - it is most likely related to the strength of the spring on the pulleys. I do get some belt slip at speeds above 1000 rpm because of this (the spring is stronger at the lower speeds - I get no slip at 600 rpm). A link belt won't help this, getting a stronger pulley spring should. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Hi Antonis, one additional thought on the link belt transferring more power: maybe. I replaced my original with this link below because the original would become misshapen when not in use, and this would cause vibrations during operation, which I expect are inefficiencies in contact between the misshapen belt with the pulleys. The link belt would not have this issue. Still, the link belt itself does not cure the slipping. Cheers!
Bill Rockwood Thanks for answering , that's a good idea about the spring , an additional washer in the motor pulley could make it kind of stronger. But it I am disappointed I went back to the old motor and hopefully I will get a decent lathe one day .
Gotta be careful replacing those belts. I was changing the belt on my harbor freight lathe when it turned on and dragged 2 of my fingers through! That left a mark for sure
Amen to that, hope you didn't have a permanent injury. I have all my tools on switchable outlet strips and ensure they're off before any maintenance work. Cheers!
@@bricotico6498 Hi, my apologies, for some reason UA-cam didn't alert me to your question. If you haven't already located the pulleys, you can find them through the Harbor Freight parts line, or at ereplacementparts.com. Cheers!
I just had to replace the belt on mine, exact same model. My upper wheel set sits up so tight against the body / cover that there was NO WAY I could slide the new belt on. I tried to loosen the Allen screws that hold the wheels ...nothing, no movement, tried taking the split right off that holds the wheel from slinding off the end of the shaft...same thing NO movement, I assume since the wheels are aluminum that the fixed wheel bonded to the shaft which is steel, or perhaps they are somehow fastened. At any rate, I ended up taking my grinder with a cutting wheel and cutting a chunk out of the top of the main body only had to take out about a 2"x3" piece so that I could put the belt on. just wanted to note that because I assume there are others who will have the same problem. Every other search brings up people changing them without much effort but mine for whatever reason was cast a bit different.
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. I've never tried to remove the upper wheels from the spindle shaft, since my casting allows the belt to slide off when you adjust the speed lever. I didn't know others had casting variations like this, so great information and thanks for passing it along. Cheers!
woodensurfer Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. I believe the thread is some odd 1/2-12 left-handed deal, not sure you can find a common bolt to fit it. You can order the hand wheel from Jet. part number is 708344. Cheers!
Hi Paul, thanks for watching and commenting. I leave the lathe speed set about mid-way, so five, and I pull the spring-loaded pulleys on the motor shaft open by hand and seat the belt in between, then with the other hand, I start walking the belt over the top of the pulleys on the spindle shaft which should be partially open. When you release the spring loaded pulleys on the motor shaft, and then rotate the spindle by hand, the belt should seat itself in its mid-range operating position. Then you can turn the lathe on and move the speed range up or down, this should only be done with the lathe turned on. Cheers!
Howdy Brother! Just Subscribed (#39) Great info about the belts. Hope to pickup the HF Lathe pretty soon. The first upgrades I hope to make are to replace the stock belt with a link belt and add the hand wheel. Is that a Jet hand wheel? Would you mind adding a link for the hand wheel. Also, your other video concerning the Tachometer was classic. Thanks for all the great tips.
Robert Kelleher HI Robert, thanks for subscribing and your comment. The part number for the Jet handwheel that fits the HF34706 lathe is part number 708344. Price varies depending on where you look, about $45 now it seems. Here's the cheapest I could find it: parts.jettools.com/Detail.aspx?PartID=708344 Cheers!
Hi Richard. Thanks for watching and commenting. The stock rubber belt causes some vibrations in the lathe due to getting misshapened, and I was attempting to reduce that with the link belt, which does not get misshapened like a rubber belt. Cheers!
You will need to reduce it by two links after using it for an hour or so. See the fennerdrives web site. That is probably why its riding so high. Also the tabs on the inside of the belt need to run the other way. PLEASE check the fennerdrives web site.
Wade, thanks for your comment. I don't have specifics on the Grizzly, but from what I've heard, the Jet handwheel is an odd thread size - 1/2-12 lefthand, I believe. Cheers!
@Bill Rockwood That is the same thread size as the grizzly from the research I've done. I haven't been able to find the handwheel very affordably anywhere though... starts at $50 plus shipping everywhere I've seen.
Hi, I really think so - mostly in reducing vibration on the machine that would have been caused by a regular rubber belt. The vibration caused by imbalance wood is one thing, but I'd rather not contend with vibration once the wood has been trued up. Still using the same link-belt today, seems to be holding up fine. Cheers!
Thank you. I'm currently looking through a few upgrades. I actually might be able to upgrade the motor to a 1 1/2 hp Baldor, but just trying to confirm if it's possible to mount it. The link belt would help a ton in changing the length.
Bill, have you noticed whether it has had any effect on the pulleys? I've got one of the green ones I'm planning to use on a belt/disc sander and remember reading that they're only recommended for steel as they're more abrasive than rubber. I need to replace one of the pulleys as well, and the selection in steel gets a bit pricey. Thanks for the video!
Hi Jidis, thanks for watching and I hope you enjoyed the video. I have not noticed any significant wear on the pulleys due to this particular link-belt, but I believe that this lathe has steel pulleys, so that may be why. Cheers!
Thanks Bill. I suspect people are just being overly cautious. I would imagine it also comes down to alloys, surface treatment/hardening and a bunch of other crap. It's probably only the softer cast aluminum ones.
Hey Mike, thanks for watching and commenting. I don't have this lathe anymore, but put the same belt on my drill press, and still going strong. Cheers!
Hi Phil, thanks for watching and commenting. You should be able to get the handwheel from erplacementparts.com, I believe the part number is 708344 for the Jet JWL1236 lathe. Merry Christmas!
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. You are right, I did initially have the belt on backward, then noticed the arrows and got it turned around before the end of the video. I'm not sure how long the life of the belt is, but 2.5 years later its still running well. Cheers!
Bill, Thanks for the video. I noticed in the background all those chucks, where did you get chucks that fit the metric tread of the Harbor Freight lathe?
Hi Maurice, thanks for watching and commenting! The "Central Machinery #34706" lathe from Harbor Freight (the big 12x33 one) as sold in the U.S. has a common 1inx8tpi thread on the headstock spindle. I'm not aware that they produce a metric-threaded version (but I'm not omniscient either!) Many chuck manufacturers produce compatible chucks, or can provide an adapter (for example, one of my chucks is 1.25inx8tpi, and I use an adapter.) My chucks are from Penn State Industries (based on economy.) Cheers!
Hi! thanks for the video, because the thumbnail I clicked to ask you if the is a website where I can get the variable speed pulley for this exactly wood lathe, one of both is broken. Thank you so much for your help or to anyone who can help me. Great video! Cheers to everyone, have a great day!
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. The pulleys for the Reeves Drive - I had to call Harbor Freight Tools and get their parts department (you'll need the part numbers from the part list) to order them. I am not aware of a website for Harbor Freight that lets you order these parts, maybe you can find the equivalent Jet part numbers and order from Jet tools. Cheers!
@@BillRockwoodWoodturning wow thank you so much for your help! and yes Ive found this www.ereplacementparts.com, I have all day searching for this and yes they have a nice diagram of all the wood lathe, this is the link ... www.ereplacementparts.com/jet-jwl1236-wood-working-lathe-parts-c-32652_32854_129617.html... I hope someone find this useful, keep the good videos and good vibes, thank you again!
Hi - my apologies, not sure why this got stuck in the Spam filter, just found it. I haven't had occasion to use it yet on the car yet, but I carry one in the trunk "just in case"; I don't see automotive use as any more demanding than industrial application (but then, I'm not an engineer either.) Cheers!
It kills me how some people think link belts are an upgrade ! Link belts are for emergency use... they do not last as long nor do they provide the performance ! Why would anyone think that ???
Hi Steve, thanks for watching and commenting. I take it your opinion is likely based on usage of link belts in continuous industrial applications, and not specifically for this type of lathe. In which case, I agree with you - link belts are an expedient temporary fix in those situations. However, for these lathes with the Reeves Drive, which are not constant use, they provide a reduction in transmited vibration caused by solid rubber belts that deform when not in use. And since they're not continuous use in this application, they last a good long time. I'm still on the same belt in this machine since I originally published this video . Same for the link belt I put on my drill press. I hope this broadens your point of view on the use of Link belts in shop tools that are not continuous use. Cheers!
Hi Phillip, thanks for watching and commenting. As I responded to an earlier comment, the Harbor Freight belts are awesome and affordable for the tools they fit, such as my band saw, but they are too wide to be an appropriate fit for this lathe, which requires a narrower belt than sold by Harbor Freight. Cheers!
Hi Md Dm, if you are looking for a link belt vendor in Dubai/Dubay, you might try this website: www.atninfo.com/results.html?selCriteria=brand&textName=LINK+BELT. Cheers!
Vibration is caused by belt tension not the belt. Link belts are way overpriced. Get a v belt form auto parts store.Better made than horrible freight .
Thanks for watching and commenting. Whereas I agree that link belts are pricey, I don't totally agree that vibration isn't caused by the belt in part. Rubber belts are known to malform when idle at least to a degree, that they have a memory and the portion that sits around a pulley when not in use will take on that shape. Link belts do mitigate this aspect of vibration. Tensioning is another issue that must be properly dealt with, agreed. Just wish someone made cheaper link belts!
Hi Roger, thanks for watching and commenting! My lathe is plugged into a power strip that allows me to shut it off without having to unplug it. I don't always include the turning on and off of that power strip in the video, and likely I should have mentioned that. Thanks for the observation. Cheers!
Hi Tim, thanks for watching and commenting. The link belt was working great the day I donated this lathe to a work program to teach underprivileged men the woodworking trades, and still going strong as far as I know. Cheers!
Thanks for watching and commenting. The link belt reduces vibration as compared to a regular rubber v-belt, which deforms while the lathe is off. It makes for smoother running. Cheers!
You'll like the linkbelt. The manufacturing company I worked for used only link belts everywhere in the plant. We had belts almost 100 feet long and they were running 24/7 and never had a problem.
Thanks for watching and commenting! The link belt has been great, I would do it again without hesitation. Cheers!
you can get that belt at harbor freight. it's green in color. cost 25 dollars plus coupon. have them on all my machines. made a vacuum chuck for that lathe. putting a treadmill motor on it like my mini lathe. massive power!
Tom Wilcox Tom, Thanks for your comment. I have also purchased the green HF belt for my bandsaw, however the one carried here is not a 3L width amd too wide for use with the Reeves pulleys of the HF lathe and maintain the right RPMs. It would be awesome if or local stores carried the 3L version. Cheers!
"nice and quiet" - that's what made the sale! thanks! I have an old '47 Craftsman Drill Press, for some reason, older drill presses had much quieter operation, which I like. Now I need a belt, but didn't want to lost the treasured 'quiet' - this answered that. Thanks! ( 1st time visitor )
Thanks for visiting and commenting John! If you like the vids, please remember to share and subscribe - I don't monitize these, so no ads to wait through. Cheers!
Speed Selector makes variable speed pulleys that replace the Reeves, Hi-Lo, TB Woods and Lovejoy pulleys that went out of business or got bought. Most of the pulleys are in stock or Speed Selector will custom make if needed. They have an actual engineering department who were very helpful.
In a pinch, I've used that exact type and brand of link belt to form a 4 belt matched set powering a now very old Ramco 54" abrasive planer. They worked perfectly until the proper matched set could be acquired.
Hi Gordon, thanks for watching and commenting. I'm using these now for all my equipment that use rubber v- belts. Cheers!
Appreciate the good videos, have you figured out a way to lock the spindle on the HF lathe so as to tighten things up without using a wrench as a stop?
Hi Bill, thanks for commenting, glad you found the videos useful ! I don't generally lock the spindle for my operations - nor do I typically use the wrench unless it's to remove a Chuck that gets stuck on the spindle. Most of the time I can thread either a faceplate or a a Chuck onto the spindle without the need to use the spindle lock. When I use a chuck with a worm screw, I generally mount that off the lathe and then hand tighten once on the spindle but only using the handwheel I added. Cheers!
Just got the answer i was looking for. Variable speed drill press + link belt. Thank you!
Hi Attila, thanks for watching and commenting. Glad you found it useful. Cheers!
Bill Rockwood over 2 years now, still ok?
Attila Szabo Yes, all my link-belt machines are running great on the same belts. Cheers!
Less vibration than regular belts?
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, less vibration than a regular belt. Cheers!
Where did you get the hand wheel? Thanks for the part number. Have a great day.
Hello Harry, thanks for watching and commenting.. I bought my handwheel from Ereplacemenparts.com. They have gotten rather pricey. Cheers!
Great video my grizzly G0462 is very noisy I'll try one ! Also I tried to find the hand wheel and need more info the 1236 number doesn't work with the website you got yours from I'm pretty sure it's the same as grizzly doesn't offer one any help with this will be much appreciated!
Do you know where can I gey a replacement top pulley??
Hi Martin, I believe you can order these from Harbor Freight. Cheers!
you put the belt on backwards it will work even better if you install it correctly. the belt is directional. it should have stores to indicate direction. but the tabs are supposed to face away from the movement or trail.
Jim Canady Hi Jim, you have a good eye, the belt was on backwards to start but if you watched the end you'll see that I got it turned around the right way. Ultimately found the arrows on the Belt. Thanks for watching!
napa has this cog belt ?/ 240
what is the benefit to switching belt type?
Thanks for watching and commenting. For this lathe, it is a reduction in vibration caused by a solid belt in the Reeves drive, which means less vibration in te tool rest, etc. Cheers!
Is that a smith jones electric motor from Harbor freight ? If so what’s your take on it? I’m in the market for an electric motor for my old atlas drill press that I’m restoring but I don’t want to take a second mortgage on my house to get it.
Hi, yes, thats the Smith Jones on the band saw, and its been working great. I had to get new pulleys to reduce the speed because its a 3600 rpm, where the original 3/4 hp Delta motor was 1750 rpm. I saw up some pretty hefty logs intto bowl turning blanks with it no problem so I think it should work ok for a drill press. Cheers!
Great videos. Just subscribed. I have the same lathe and have a question about the hand wheel. I’ve been thinking about ordering that same part from Jet. Question is how do you remove the headstock center without using a push rod?
Hi Alec, thanks for watching and commenting. It may be possible to have a machine shop drill a through-hole in the handwheel to accommodate a rod. One alternative may be to use a strap wrench to loosen the drive center. Another alternative (which I selected) is to get a modular drive center set (such as the one sold by Penn State Industries) that has a base that threads onto the spindle and several sizes/types of drive center options, instead of using the spindle's MT2 - this set uses tommy bars to remove like a chuck instead of a knock-out rod. Link to the set at PSI: www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTSET.html. Cheers!
Thanks Bill!
How has it worked out?
Hi Brad, thanks for watching and commenting. The link belt worked out great for the Reeves drive on this lathe, and was still going strong when I donated the lathe. Neither the belt nor the pulleys showed significant wear. Cheers!
@@BillRockwoodWoodturning awesome thanks
Hello ,
Can I ask you something , did you notice any better grip somehow from the link belts ?
The reason I am asking is cause I have the same kind of lathe and recently I put a 2 hp motor right under the original motor , I had put a pulley in the original motors front side where the fan is so I could keep the variable speed without the need of new axle and bearings . It worked great but the belt of the variable pulleys was spinning like crazy under load so I didn't really had any benefits . Would a link belt be better ? Do you thing it can transfer more power ?
Hi Antonis, my apologies for the delayed response, just now seeing your comment (thanks for watching and commenting!) I don't believe the belt slip issue is related to the type of belt - it is most likely related to the strength of the spring on the pulleys. I do get some belt slip at speeds above 1000 rpm because of this (the spring is stronger at the lower speeds - I get no slip at 600 rpm). A link belt won't help this, getting a stronger pulley spring should. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Hi Antonis, one additional thought on the link belt transferring more power: maybe. I replaced my original with this link below because the original would become misshapen when not in use, and this would cause vibrations during operation, which I expect are inefficiencies in contact between the misshapen belt with the pulleys. The link belt would not have this issue. Still, the link belt itself does not cure the slipping. Cheers!
Bill Rockwood
Thanks for answering , that's a good idea about the spring , an additional washer in the motor pulley could make it kind of stronger. But it I am disappointed I went back to the old motor and hopefully I will get a decent lathe one day .
Gotta be careful replacing those belts. I was changing the belt on my harbor freight lathe when it turned on and dragged 2 of my fingers through! That left a mark for sure
Amen to that, hope you didn't have a permanent injury. I have all my tools on switchable outlet strips and ensure they're off before any maintenance work. Cheers!
Bill Rockwood excuse me is there a place where I can find the polleys for that lathe I have one similar to yours but it doesn't have polleys
@@bricotico6498 Hi, my apologies, for some reason UA-cam didn't alert me to your question. If you haven't already located the pulleys, you can find them through the Harbor Freight parts line, or at ereplacementparts.com. Cheers!
+Bill Rockwood Can you post a link to the handwheel you installed? My brother has that same lathe, and I think it'd be a nice gift for him.
Hi Vince, thanks for watching and commenting. Try this link. www.ereplacementparts.com/hand-wheel-p-1361362.html
I just had to replace the belt on mine, exact same model. My upper wheel set sits up so tight against the body / cover that there was NO WAY I could slide the new belt on. I tried to loosen the Allen screws that hold the wheels ...nothing, no movement, tried taking the split right off that holds the wheel from slinding off the end of the shaft...same thing NO movement, I assume since the wheels are aluminum that the fixed wheel bonded to the shaft which is steel, or perhaps they are somehow fastened. At any rate, I ended up taking my grinder with a cutting wheel and cutting a chunk out of the top of the main body only had to take out about a 2"x3" piece so that I could put the belt on.
just wanted to note that because I assume there are others who will have the same problem. Every other search brings up people changing them without much effort but mine for whatever reason was cast a bit different.
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. I've never tried to remove the upper wheels from the spindle shaft, since my casting allows the belt to slide off when you adjust the speed lever. I didn't know others had casting variations like this, so great information and thanks for passing it along. Cheers!
Mine does not have the hand wheel.
What bolt will fit? It is 12 mm coarse thread?
Thanks
woodensurfer Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. I believe the thread is some odd 1/2-12 left-handed deal, not sure you can find a common bolt to fit it. You can order the hand wheel from Jet. part number is 708344. Cheers!
If you would please tell me if it is metric 12 mm or 1/2 inch.
Is it really reverse thread?
What I needed to know you skipped. How did you get the new belt on
Hi Paul, thanks for watching and commenting. I leave the lathe speed set about mid-way, so five, and I pull the spring-loaded pulleys on the motor shaft open by hand and seat the belt in between, then with the other hand, I start walking the belt over the top of the pulleys on the spindle shaft which should be partially open. When you release the spring loaded pulleys on the motor shaft, and then rotate the spindle by hand, the belt should seat itself in its mid-range operating position. Then you can turn the lathe on and move the speed range up or down, this should only be done with the lathe turned on. Cheers!
i ended up using a bearing puller. thanks for replying . i could not get the spring loaded pulley part to open at all and bearing puller worked great
Awesome, glad it worked out for you Paul. Cheers!
Howdy Brother! Just Subscribed (#39) Great info about the belts. Hope to pickup the HF Lathe pretty soon. The first upgrades I hope to make are to replace the stock belt with a link belt and add the hand wheel. Is that a Jet hand wheel? Would you mind adding a link for the hand wheel. Also, your other video concerning the Tachometer was classic. Thanks for all the great tips.
Robert Kelleher HI Robert, thanks for subscribing and your comment. The part number for the Jet handwheel that fits the HF34706 lathe is part number 708344. Price varies depending on where you look, about $45 now it seems. Here's the cheapest I could find it: parts.jettools.com/Detail.aspx?PartID=708344
Cheers!
What was the point of changing to the new style belt?
Hi Richard. Thanks for watching and commenting. The stock rubber belt causes some vibrations in the lathe due to getting misshapened, and I was attempting to reduce that with the link belt, which does not get misshapened like a rubber belt. Cheers!
You will need to reduce it by two links after using it for an hour or so. See the fennerdrives web site. That is probably why its riding so high. Also the tabs on the inside of the belt need to run the other way. PLEASE check the fennerdrives web site.
Thanks Paul, both good observations, which it took me a bit to figure out. I wish I'd read that on the Fenner site earlier. Cheers!
Glad to be of service. Keep in touch, interested in how the belt works out.
Email me at pblackman35@gmail.com
Hello Bill, Can you tell me where you got your hand-wheel from please? I also have the Harbor Freight lathe.
Hi again Bill, I read thru the comments and found the link you provided for someone else so thanks and keep on turning.
Hey Mark, you got to it before I could answer! :) Thanks for watching and commenting. Have fun on your lathe and be safe. Cheers!
I wonder if that hand wheel will fit a grizzly 462. looks exactly thr same. I think they are clones of the jet
Wade, thanks for your comment. I don't have specifics on the Grizzly, but from what I've heard, the Jet handwheel is an odd thread size - 1/2-12 lefthand, I believe. Cheers!
@Bill Rockwood That is the same thread size as the grizzly from the research I've done. I haven't been able to find the handwheel very affordably anywhere though... starts at $50 plus shipping everywhere I've seen.
Was the link belt worth the upgrade over a normal belt in the long run?
Hi, I really think so - mostly in reducing vibration on the machine that would have been caused by a regular rubber belt. The vibration caused by imbalance wood is one thing, but I'd rather not contend with vibration once the wood has been trued up. Still using the same link-belt today, seems to be holding up fine. Cheers!
Thank you. I'm currently looking through a few upgrades. I actually might be able to upgrade the motor to a 1 1/2 hp Baldor, but just trying to confirm if it's possible to mount it. The link belt would help a ton in changing the length.
Bill, have you noticed whether it has had any effect on the pulleys? I've got one of the green ones I'm planning to use on a belt/disc sander and remember reading that they're only recommended for steel as they're more abrasive than rubber. I need to replace one of the pulleys as well, and the selection in steel gets a bit pricey.
Thanks for the video!
Hi Jidis, thanks for watching and I hope you enjoyed the video. I have not noticed any significant wear on the pulleys due to this particular link-belt, but I believe that this lathe has steel pulleys, so that may be why. Cheers!
Thanks Bill. I suspect people are just being overly cautious. I would imagine it also comes down to alloys, surface treatment/hardening and a bunch of other crap. It's probably only the softer cast aluminum ones.
how long has this link lasted?/
Hey Mike, thanks for watching and commenting. I don't have this lathe anymore, but put the same belt on my drill press, and still going strong. Cheers!
@@BillRockwoodWoodturning ty i have a grizzly thats similar and going to get a dc motor also
Do you know where I can purchase one of dose hand wheel. I have look every place I can think.
Hi Jack, this is where I ordered mine: parts.jettools.com/Detail.aspx?PartID=708344
Where did you get the hand wheel from?
Hi Phil, thanks for watching and commenting. You should be able to get the handwheel from erplacementparts.com, I believe the part number is 708344 for the Jet JWL1236 lathe. Merry Christmas!
I think you have the belt running the wrong way. The inside tabs should be dragging not leading. This may reduce life and increase noise.
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. You are right, I did initially have the belt on backward, then noticed the arrows and got it turned around before the end of the video. I'm not sure how long the life of the belt is, but 2.5 years later its still running well. Cheers!
How is the belt working?
Hi Jacob, thanks for watching and commenting. The belt is working great, holding up just fine. Cheers!
Bill, Thanks for the video. I noticed in the background all those chucks, where did you get chucks that fit the metric tread of the Harbor Freight lathe?
Hi Maurice, thanks for watching and commenting! The "Central Machinery #34706" lathe from Harbor Freight (the big 12x33 one) as sold in the U.S. has a common 1inx8tpi thread on the headstock spindle. I'm not aware that they produce a metric-threaded version (but I'm not omniscient either!) Many chuck manufacturers produce compatible chucks, or can provide an adapter (for example, one of my chucks is 1.25inx8tpi, and I use an adapter.) My chucks are from Penn State Industries (based on economy.) Cheers!
Excellent show and tell...
Hi Paul, thanks for watching and commenting., glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Hi! thanks for the video, because the thumbnail I clicked to ask you if the is a website where I can get the variable speed pulley for this exactly wood lathe, one of both is broken. Thank you so much for your help or to anyone who can help me. Great video! Cheers to everyone, have a great day!
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. The pulleys for the Reeves Drive - I had to call Harbor Freight Tools and get their parts department (you'll need the part numbers from the part list) to order them. I am not aware of a website for Harbor Freight that lets you order these parts, maybe you can find the equivalent Jet part numbers and order from Jet tools. Cheers!
@@BillRockwoodWoodturning wow thank you so much for your help! and yes Ive found this www.ereplacementparts.com, I have all day searching for this and yes they have a nice diagram of all the wood lathe, this is the link ... www.ereplacementparts.com/jet-jwl1236-wood-working-lathe-parts-c-32652_32854_129617.html... I hope someone find this useful, keep the good videos and good vibes, thank you again!
I wonder if anybody used to run these link belts on their automobiles back in the day
Hi - my apologies, not sure why this got stuck in the Spam filter, just found it. I haven't had occasion to use it yet on the car yet, but I carry one in the trunk "just in case"; I don't see automotive use as any more demanding than industrial application (but then, I'm not an engineer either.) Cheers!
It kills me how some people think link belts are an upgrade ! Link belts are for emergency use... they do not last as long nor do they provide the performance ! Why would anyone think that ???
Hi Steve, thanks for watching and commenting. I take it your opinion is likely based on usage of link belts in continuous industrial applications, and not specifically for this type of lathe. In which case, I agree with you - link belts are an expedient temporary fix in those situations. However, for these lathes with the Reeves Drive, which are not constant use, they provide a reduction in transmited vibration caused by solid rubber belts that deform when not in use. And since they're not continuous use in this application, they last a good long time. I'm still on the same belt in this machine since I originally published this video . Same for the link belt I put on my drill press. I hope this broadens your point of view on the use of Link belts in shop tools that are not continuous use. Cheers!
Yes I agree you had the mounted backwards but you also Paid too much for it. Check out harbor freights belts.
Hi Phillip, thanks for watching and commenting. As I responded to an earlier comment, the Harbor Freight belts are awesome and affordable for the tools they fit, such as my band saw, but they are too wide to be an appropriate fit for this lathe, which requires a narrower belt than sold by Harbor Freight. Cheers!
Why spend so much when you can get a belt for $11 or less?
B N Is that for a link belt or standard rubber belt? I wanted the link belt for the reduced vibration.
pls is there any egent in doubi pls let me knowing
Hi Md Dm, if you are looking for a link belt vendor in Dubai/Dubay, you might try this website: www.atninfo.com/results.html?selCriteria=brand&textName=LINK+BELT. Cheers!
Vibration is caused by belt tension not the belt. Link belts are way overpriced. Get a v belt form auto parts store.Better made than horrible freight .
Thanks for watching and commenting. Whereas I agree that link belts are pricey, I don't totally agree that vibration isn't caused by the belt in part. Rubber belts are known to malform when idle at least to a degree, that they have a memory and the portion that sits around a pulley when not in use will take on that shape. Link belts do mitigate this aspect of vibration. Tensioning is another issue that must be properly dealt with, agreed. Just wish someone made cheaper link belts!
thank brother
you made me nervous you didn't unplug it!
Hi Roger, thanks for watching and commenting! My lathe is plugged into a power strip that allows me to shut it off without having to unplug it. I don't always include the turning on and off of that power strip in the video, and likely I should have mentioned that. Thanks for the observation. Cheers!
you skipped the parts i wanted to see? why not show how to do the stuff instead of just before and after ?💩🤷🏼♂️🙄👎🏽
How do you like it now?
Hi Tim, thanks for watching and commenting. The link belt was working great the day I donated this lathe to a work program to teach underprivileged men the woodworking trades, and still going strong as far as I know. Cheers!
What benefit is the link belt?
Thanks for watching and commenting. The link belt reduces vibration as compared to a regular rubber v-belt, which deforms while the lathe is off. It makes for smoother running. Cheers!