Watch This Before Bidding Your Next DRYWALL Job - 3 Spec Tips
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- Thanks to Trim-tex for sponsoring this video! Matt revisits Luke's house in the drywall phase to go over three things you need to know before drywall! He meets Don, Vice President of Sales at Trim-tex, to talk about how to incorporate their products in this phase and the benefits.
Get Trim-tex samples here! www.trim-tex.com/request-samp...
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Pro-tip for people who don't have enough time to watch all Matt's videos and you are from someplace like NY. Matt talks Texas. You can turn his video speeds up to 1.5 speed in settings and save 1/3 of your time and still get all the same great information, as as a New Yorker he'll sound pretty normal (1.25 speed sounds normal, 1.5 maybe should be called NY Espresso speed). :p
😂 being a Texan that lived in NYC and finally came back, yes, I totally get you on the talking speed
As a non-native English speaker, 1x is fine for me.
That’s funny because it’s true 😂
Great tip. Yeah, Matt actually sounds totally normal at 1.25x speed.
I dunno, I just moved from rural SC to rural NY and so far the people up here talk just as slow if not slower. I think it might be northern big city vs southern big city
I was a sheet rocker in the 50s-60s and I thought 12’ 4x12’s weighted about 100 lbs then. Though I’m old and weaker I can feel a lot of difference in the weight of rock we have now.
So the 5/8 you get now may be lighter than the half inch we had in the past.
I will use 5/8 on my current build though I did hang half inch myself on the common wall and utility closet..Yes it’s not so easy to do at 84.
Keep up the good work.
4'x12'x5/8" type x is 105 lbs.
@wheelerdealer2105 - 84 years old?! You related to Jack Lalanne?
Thank you :).
In passive solar design, doubling or tripling the drywall on a wall in front of south-facing windows is used for thermal storage.
Make sure you account the wall thickness when you get your doors packages etc.
Yes great comment! Should have said that
Yeah, I had that issue on a house where I clearly noted it to the contractor verbally and on the drawings and still had to make corrections on the door submittals to get the correct width of frame
Absolutely. You’re talking about additional quarter inch thickness on the wall, and it is much easier to order your jamb sizes correctly that it is to install jamb extensions on entire house, not to mention better looking
As a finish carpenter I was just like "and then me adding for our strips on every effing door 😂"
The 1940’s cape in upstate New York I rehabbed had 1/2 inSheetrock with 1/2 plaster over, talk about mass, it was like a concrete wall. Very comfortable house even before updating with spray foam
Good tips, the moisture content is super important.
In my personal home the drywall was stored in an outside lean-to and had way too much moisture in it.
I should have rejected it but was in a hurry, so now i have a lot of joints breaking because of the drywall shrinking.
Another advantage to 5/8 drywall is noise mitigation. The added mass of the walls absorbs sound. It's harder to get it to resonate and pass sound through the wall.
Lowe's list price for drywall, only added $2 per sheet, so for 400 sheets is only extra $800 for 5/8" drywall. Other advantages as someone that did building maintenance for years, thicker drywall means fewer holes in wall. Also thicker drywall will hold heavier shelves and TV's. Thicker drywall also provides a longer fire protection rating. Of course a builder will get a better price. SO basically I can't find a reason not to use the thicker drywall, well maybe a slightly higher cost in labor, your builder can address this.
the only disadvantage is more weight to carry around. I did 1/2 and 5/8 in my house. There is a big difference when you put them on the ceiling and wall.
@@joezhou5426 not a big enough difference. The pros far outweigh (no pun intended) cons.
Do jambs have to all be addressed. Which is more of a cost than the sheet. Yes you can get custom jambs. Ect...
I used it on my house but not spec builds. The total cost isn't worth it there
@@travisstorbakken1737 if you are a big guy, that is not a problem. I am a small guy. :)
@@travisstorbakken1737 Doing it day after day, big difference imo. Professionals set up, good tools for moving sheets, helps. For me I do all the work by myself and often the sheets have o be moved a lot. Not fun.
I ran into the same issue with electric. I ran 12/2 for most of my current project...why not right? Then I ran some 14/2 and wow it was like being on vacation it was so much easier to work with.
Exactly! We did 5/8 drywall for the thermal mass.
Excellent!
Good to see the ducts sealed during drywall phase 💯
Awesome stuff Matt, thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Thanks Fred! Always appreciate your support
In Europe common practice is to put 2 'sheets of drywall with a purpose not to add thermal mass but to prevent cracking
Why not just use tape?
@@robertm5969 they use tape but in Europe they build houses with ceramic or AAC blocks so not many builders familiar how to work with gypsum boards. Companies which manufacture drywall in order to increase sales put out educational videos where they teach public to put two sheets of drywall on walls
Another Great video. Thank you.
Great video, Matt. Good thoughts.
As Always... Thanks Matt !
I am able to watch at 2x and boy am I grateful for the time I save. I have the knowledge of 40 years building experience 😂
I used all Trim-trex trim bead in my project. I like those plastic bead.
Crazy. We never use 1/2” here in SoCal. As a plumbing contractor, I don’t think I’ve done a home that isn’t 5/8 in my 15 year career.
I'm 66 and have slow flipped homes for 21 years as a hobby. Finishing house #4. Will sell and move to SE Asia and I'm happy to say I will never have drywall in my house for the rest of my life. There is nothing I like about drywall. In this house I did one wall with MDF shiplap instead of drywall. That was even worse than drywall. I did another wall making my own shiplap ripping 1/4" plywood into 8" wide boards and glued a 1/8" thick strip 2" wide to the back of each board. Prime and painted each board, nailed to wall. That worked great. Some places where I might want access to plumbing or electric I screwed the board to the wall using solid brass slotted screws.
Man the house is looking sweet. Lol
I’ve been a production drywall contractor for 25 years. What’s your opinion on using propane heat? I hate it as a drywall contractor, it dumps huge amounts of water into the air and therefore the drywall and framing. I can tell if a house had propane heat a year later just by cutting a hole in the wall. In my opinion, it changes the makeup of the drywall.
Hi Matt, great video! You mentioned adding heat to the interior of a home that has been rained on to help dry out the lumber before installing sheetrock. I’ve heard that using a propane heater isn’t recommended because when you burn propane you are actually adding moisture into a room, as much as 4 cubic feet of water vapor per one cubic foot of gas burned. Can you recommend a manufacturer or model of an electric heater that would work well?
Project farm has a video rigorously comparing 110V space heaters. I think adding a dehumidifier would be sufficient to dry a room
I cringed when Matt was whacking that corner. I would have had a hard time intentionally messing up someones work even if they are coming back later to put on the other coats. As the homeowner, I'd keep an eye out on that corner and give Matt hell if it ever cracks!😂
It still needed an extra coat anyway.
@@karanpatel8910 I agree and said it had 2 more coats. But the whacks may have weakened the adhesion up and down the corner bead. Probably not, though.
Regarding tip number three wouldn’t things be worse if you have a layer of poly right below the sheet rock? The humidity is going to have a tough time exiting the wall cavity.
Yes indeed. A vapor barrier inside means no drying to the interior
Curious how manual J accounts for the increased thermal mass? 7600lbs of added gypsum is about 1976 btus/degF .
I want to build a house with hemecrete interior walls instead of drywall. It would be kinda heavy but like the adobe it greatly would increase a lot of beneficial properties (carbon negative, fire resistant, bug and rot proofish (especially if you mix in particular oils with the mix) etc etc..
Since hemecrete isn't load bearing this is actually a great use for it. Extra bonus.... beautifil hand molded molding and beautiful southwest style build ins for furniture and media centers etc etc
Is there a drywall alternative for finished basements?
As a professional taper in my 20’s, I used all types of corner beads. Metal corner beads installed with a crimper tool was my best experience. Vinyl beads is flexible, but that’s not true with the compound!
I got a tip, why don’t you have them tape off your window frames to keep them clean. The window cleaner will thank you and do a better job. It’s pretty hard to get that white porous plaster off the black finish of the frames.
And 1/2 drywall on the ceiling with 24 O.C will sag because of that 24 on center..but 1/2 on 16 on center will not sag .
I think you meant Southwest... not Southeast for the adobe...
😬
I use "No Coat" corner bead by Certainteed. Incredible product, vastly superior to metal. You can literally beat it with a hammer and no dents
Even if the corner bead isn't attached by a mechanical fastener the drywall still is. So wouldn't any shifting, twisting or general settling still lead to the same crack with the corner bead edge?
Not necessarily if the bead can move with the drywall.
It's interesting how different areas have different practices. In my area no one uses 5/8" for anything (other than code compliance areas), and 1/2" ultra light for the ceiling. I haven't ever seen any specific issues or problems with sagging ceilings. You'll have a bunch of other people chime in saying they NEVER use anything but 5/8". What would be better, spending the money saved on 1/2" on better/more diligent insulation, or opting for 5/8" drywall? If you had to pick one or the other that is.
If you look at a 1970s ranch with 1/2” drywall in the ceiling that has had lots of blow in insulation, you’ll see wavy drywall. It’s common here, in Florida. The humidity doesn’t help either.
@@jamskatelake Sure, I'm speaking of the newer lighter 1/2" that is specifically made for use on ceilings because it is lighter and stiffer. It sags no more than 5/8" will sag, and potentially less.
Is there another way to incorporate thermal mass into a home? I like this idea for efficiency.
People often use concrete floors in passive house. Large South facing windows allow sunlight in to heat up the floor during the day and keep the home warm during the night.
Build an ICF house
Based on size, 5/8" drywall should only be 25% heavier than 1/2", but the numbers show it being 40% heavier. Why is that?
It's not homogeneous, you have thick paper facing on each side and heavy stone in the middle.
Another one of life's mysteries.
Going from 1/2" to 5/8" - the paper face is the same, so the increase is all rock.
I still can't believe there's not an easier common interior alternative to drywall. Like 90%+ of homes are drywall. How is there, not a more problem-free and cost-effective alternative
it's called plaster, which is cement without the aggregate rock. drywall it garbage like OSB.
That’s actually what they came up with so they won’t use that pain in a butt called lath and plaster
And what problems does it give you other than convenience in all ways?
The only thing cheap about drywall is the material cost.
Interesting coming from someone who insulated his house from the concrete slab.
Looks like the elechicken wasn’t informed of the 5/8” on the walls. Boxes sitting way back inside
Does it matter which drywall mud you'd wanna use with the trims? I can see homeowners using lightweight
Great question. Let me ask my pro’s about that
I haven't noticed a significant, consistant difference. Maybe AP is a little better but it is soo much harder to work with. AP is harder so is better for texture.
@@ruhap9311 which all purpose and lightweight do you use? I've used USG all purpose and midweight, and just recently picked up Plus3 for finishing coats. I was excited to try the plus3 but didn't find it any easier to work with. If there's a better lightweight I can use Id love to hear
@robertm5969 My work place isn't that that finely tuned. I am fine with the light weight from Lows/Home Depot. When I need It thinner (tape or skim coat) I just spin it more.
Oops, getting a bathroom reno done, they used 1/2" Oh well, Hope all goes ok. I did do spray foam when the gut was done, so thats at least something. I am putting my trust in the contractor which we got 6 quotes and did a lot of interviews, that this is being done right
Should be fine
@@robertm5969 should be ok, BUT you should have been given the choice-you are the client, you are paying the bills. It’s not professional for contractors to make convert decision like this. He shock have presented the cost difference and let you decide. And of course teh dynamic is invariably the following- if you spec 5/8 before signing contract , then decide use 1/2 after the contract, they usually won’t reduce price much . But if you spec 1/2 then Change order to 5/8 they crucify with price increase.
@@johnwhite2576 95% of drywall jobs and available inventory in the US are 1/2". There is no substantial difference between 1/2" and 5/8" for the vast majority of applications. A contractor would not bother bringing it up as an option unless specifically requested. A contractor using 1/2" says nothing about the quality of their work.
Great video and products. Could you look into the camera when you are speaking? The side camera view is distracting.
No
Re: mass, that presumes you're keeping your A/C on all the time, right? What if you're gone for a week during Winter or Summer and turn the A/C way down while you're gone? Then when you return it's going to take that much longer to get it comfortable, as all of that mass needs to heated or cooled.
Seems the better strategy is to bring outdoor temps indoors when it's preferable, seal it out when it isn't. Which seems to argue for low mass.
Do you regularly go away for a week? I don’t. I advise keeping the TStat at a constant temp. I’m also in a hot / humid climate so we don’t often have outdoor conditions where we throw open the windows
@@buildshow I lived in So Cal most of my life, and it's common in Summer to have hot days but cool nights (and low humidity). Why pay for A/C when it's cooler outdoors than in? So, we'd open up all windows in the evening. If we had great insulation too (we didn't) then we could have gotten by with minimal cooling during the day too. Just by taking advantage of those cool nights.
Theoretically that could be automated. Not opening/closing windows but opening/closing vents of some sort (which would also maintain security, when not at home). E.g. when the thermostat/computer recognizes it's cooler outdoors than indoors, and more cooling is needed indoors, it opens the vents and flushes the house with it. Or vice-versa if it's warmer outdoors than in and the goal is to make the interior warmer.
As an aside, we also need some way to heat/cool individual rooms differently, rather than treating the entire house as a single unit. We can't close vents because that causes too much backpressure on the system and that harms the A/C, we're told. But things change. The angle of the sun changes throughout a day, making one side of the house warmer than the other. More people in a room changes the dynamic. Sometimes a room is no longer in use. Etc.
I had same thought and was looking for this comment.
When it comes to climate control and comfort, High mass has equal number of advantages and disadvantages. What really matters is ability of your heating/cooling system to compensate heat loss at any rate at any time.
Those high mass houses take just as long to cool down after sun sets down
Build for your climate, so there is no typical solution to all problems because the climate is different from one region to another
I think Joe L at BSC says "light and tight". Thermal mass seems unnecessary, if not outdated.
🛎️🙏
All corner beads get damaged once people start using thw space.
Sadly I still see people using metal corners, and nails. Some people can't adapt.
Or just build an ICF house.
This is the way. Wood has poor dimensional stability to humidity and temperature.
That's why you put the insulation on the outside and condition the framing.
@@DanielZajic too much work, ICF is still a better solution
Not all drywall is equal - the drywall used on my condo flood repair is chalky and soft. Poor quality.
1/2" finishes like turd now. High shoulders, busted up, crap factory flats, thinner paper then old school "heavy half" so far more screw pops.
Manufacturers are pumping it out so fast quality control..... isn't.
I always prefer finishing 5/8" rock. Even the lightweight 5/8" is far superior to lightweight half.
The only two things lightweight half is good for is easier on the hangers and mixing it with cow manure for fertilizer.
You won't get cracks in your corner bead if you use glass tape.
I’d be pissed if all my jboxes were installed too deep
Somebody didn't coordinate with the electricians, with the wall board thickness, what a horrible electrical install
that electrical box is set back too far, VIOLATION!!!
Don't use drywall, the paper with powder, if it gets wet once it's ruined, like OSB.
plywood for interior walls and ceiling instead. What could go wrong
Drywall sucks and we need a better walling system
anything but drywall, awful product