I have the GFX50R, with the GF110mm f2, GF45-100mm f4, and the GF50mm f3.5. The GF45-100 is a great lens and extremely sharp (at least my copy is). If it wasn't for the weight, I would never take it off the 50R. Great video, keep up the good work.
It appears to cover a very useful range, from the start of wide angle to normal to slight telephoto. While I've never used that lens, I find on the equivalent on other cameras, I use that range a lot.
Great review. (1) I own 20-35 and 45-100 for landscape and walk around. But for magical bokeh separation I’m thinking to purchase 110. Although I was told that I don’t need since already I have 100 on 45-100 but as you mentioned it’s f4 and still not f2! Also I think beside bokeh separation 110 provides very beautiful blurring effects for headshot portraits that I cannot achieve it by using 100 on 45-100. (2) for completing my gear for wildlife and even some landscape or fashion, do you think it’s better to go for 100-220 or 250? Thank you
Hmm if u are just going to use the tele end, the 250mm is way better. 100-200 optically isn’t comparable and the lost of 1 stop is a big deal. And 110 vs 45-100, that 2 aperture stop is huge is really, both in bokeh and light
After watching your 80mm 1.7 review I finally watched this one. Thanks a lot. Since the 100S has the IBIS I will skip the 45-100 (even though they have a deal in Germany right now). The 32-64, 80mm and the 100-200 make the 45-100 kind of useless. Thanks again, your videos are the best on UA-cam
the 45-100 is a versatile lens and for studio its really one of the best. But having some artistic options with aperture makes me value the 80mm alittle more and with the GFX100, ibis is not an issue.
TY! Love your reviews. Q. Getting the 100s and torn between 32-64 and 45-100. IQ is the utmost (that's why I'm getting into MF)...32-64 seems a tad more versatile and just as good IQI? (there are some head to head zoom in reviews that SEEM to suggest 45-100 is a tad sharper?). TY :)
Excellent revue as usual, Im surprised that at 100mm F4 you cant get any decent bokeh? Did you try come in close for a head shot? Because any 100mm lens at f4 should give you decent bokeh when coming in for a at least half body shot or similar, Maybe the 110mm f2 has spoilt you.
ZP Productions that bokeh to me is fine, I had another look at the headshots, I’m thinking of using this lens for my weddings not so much for the reception or ceremony but for the main group shots and bride and groom portraits, I am currently using two Xt 3s with the 16mm, 23mm, 56mm & 90mm, what I found is the 56mm and 90mm are amazing when compared with full frame, but when it comes to the wider lenses I find you really can’t zoom in as much, the images just don’t hold up as good as full frame or the other 56 & 90mm primes, so what I wanted to do for the main group shots was use the GFXR 50 and in combo with the 45mm-100 f4 zoom and to compliment it I was thinking of using my second body Xt3 with the 90mm lens (135mm full frame equivalent) do you think that’s a good combo also will the GFX50R keep up with portrait group shots? Or will it be to slow for that environment, Sorry for the long reply,
@@eliaspap8708 Hmmm. My only issue is the AF speed. The F4 lens AF really slow in low light, even the GFX100. In good light or outdoor, I don't think you will have a single problem . Im not too worried about image quality or speed in-terms of amount of light since you can boost ISO and GFX series at 3200 ISO is as good as APS-C ISO 800 once you size down and apply just a little noise reduction. I do agree that the wider X-Series lens isn't as great at least no where comparable to GFX series, used the 23, 16-55 and 35 before. But their longer short teles till super teles are perfectly good. So if your subject is gonna stand there and pose for you, I'm sure it will work out just fine. Anything else that moves, use the XT3.
@@ZPProductionsHave you used the GF250mm f4 yet? I'm thinking about getting it for portrait (more dramatic). lol im dumb, i just saw your review on it.
Hi again I shot alot in Church lower light settings where flash can't happen Will the 45-100 4.0 with higher ISO work with in focus pics on the 100S. I am coming from m4/3rd background where my 1.2 lenses work great but definetely don't have the MF resolving power and would not work at all at 4.0.
Ok. The only issue you will face is focusing. Gfx100 series focusing in low light is rather poor especially with the F4 and F5.6 lens. It really depends how low is low. So F4 with 1/200 shutter iso 400 maybe ok. But if you need say iso1600 or 3200, then I will say you will face focusing issue. At this point I recommend the R5 or Sony A1. Both have decent resolving power, and their f2.8 zooms/ f1.2 primes will do a better job
@@ZPProductions But if you raise the ISO Doesn't shutter increase producing faster focus and if MF cameras have less noise at higher ISO then FF then maybe the GF 45-100 might work...
@@ZPProductions ISO settings indicate how rapidly your sensor gathers light..the higher the number the more rapid it gathers..the more sensitive it is. When your aperture is wide open and there is not enough light to get a stable shoot(like in a low lit church). Therfore you need a higher shutter speed by Increasing your ISO. The result with the Medium Format GFX 110S is lower noise and with the 6 spots of IBIS a sharper AF will happen more often.
@@philotimo5089 My experience with 32-64 F4 in indoor lighting is abysmal. It's so slow that my wife with an olympus EM1X and F2 lens does it way better. Also doing studio shoots and turning off studio lights result in slow AF. Still faster then say using a hasselblad but definitely turning on all the lights yield better AF speed. Now if you are interested in modern sensor tech we can carry on discussion below. It's an interesting topic really. Modern sensor do not gather light more rapidly. It always capture the same amount per given time. It's the processing after that that gives the ISO. It's also this processing that result in noise. Yes raising iso gives a sharper photo and IBIS does improve AF as it makes comparison easier, but it doesnt change the fact the camera is still taking in light at the same pace just processed differently. You can take a look at DPReview article on ISO in modern sensor. It a little more complicated than amplification, but the sensor do not increase the rapidness of gathering light. It just treats it to get to that "ISO". Theres also the concept of ISO-Invariant of modern camera sensor that maybe useful for reading. GFX100 sensor has 2 amplification stage, one at ISO100 and the other at 800. Anything in between is close to the same as as using exposure push in lightroom. The link below depicts dynamic range which is technically information capture in various iso given the same time. You will notice two peaks and thats cause at 800 a cleaner amplifier is used. www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm Now what I am not very sure is when AF is done. Before or after amplification stage (as such that dual amplifier makes a diff) Im guessing is after, but it also does mean that once you go pass 800, its just downwards in terms of information available given the same time and this kinda mess around with the AF.
I have the GFX50R, with the GF110mm f2, GF45-100mm f4, and the GF50mm f3.5. The GF45-100 is a great lens and extremely sharp (at least my copy is). If it wasn't for the weight, I would never take it off the 50R. Great video, keep up the good work.
It appears to cover a very useful range, from the start of wide angle to normal to slight telephoto. While I've never used that lens, I find on the equivalent on other cameras, I use that range a lot.
Hey Iamtongue, great video as always. Are you doing impression on the new GF20-35mm soon? Looking forward to it dude.
Great review. (1) I own 20-35 and 45-100 for landscape and walk around. But for magical bokeh separation I’m thinking to purchase 110. Although I was told that I don’t need since already I have 100 on 45-100 but as you mentioned it’s f4 and still not f2! Also I think beside bokeh separation 110 provides very beautiful blurring effects for headshot portraits that I cannot achieve it by using 100 on 45-100. (2) for completing my gear for wildlife and even some landscape or fashion, do you think it’s better to go for 100-220 or 250? Thank you
Hmm if u are just going to use the tele end, the 250mm is way better. 100-200 optically isn’t comparable and the lost of 1 stop is a big deal.
And 110 vs 45-100, that 2 aperture stop is huge is really, both in bokeh and light
After watching your 80mm 1.7 review I finally watched this one. Thanks a lot. Since the 100S has the IBIS I will skip the 45-100 (even though they have a deal in Germany right now). The 32-64, 80mm and the 100-200 make the 45-100 kind of useless. Thanks again, your videos are the best on UA-cam
the 45-100 is a versatile lens and for studio its really one of the best. But having some artistic options with aperture makes me value the 80mm alittle more and with the GFX100, ibis is not an issue.
GFX 100S Plus the 45-100 4.0 plus the 80mm 1.7 Thanks for your thoughts. Great advice about the GF lenses....
I think the above is a great combination
亲爱的ZP你好 看了你很多期节目 我想你应该可以理解中文吧 我刚刚入门fujifilm GFX系统 配合EOS R5 使用 我现在手里只有一只 GF50mm f3.5 因为我已经要外出拍摄 风光人像活动都有拍的很多 很多时候环境不适合换镜头 例如海滩 雨天 所以我很确定我需要变焦镜头 现在有32-64 以及 45-100在我面前 我很犹豫如何选择 还请您指教 谢谢您
我是觉得45-100 比较适合吧。 特别是拍人像
32-64 比较适合用在拍风景
@@ZPProductions 谢谢大哥的指教 超级感谢
TY! Love your reviews. Q. Getting the 100s and torn between 32-64 and 45-100. IQ is the utmost (that's why I'm getting into MF)...32-64 seems a tad more versatile and just as good IQI? (there are some head to head zoom in reviews that SEEM to suggest 45-100 is a tad sharper?). TY :)
I think they are about the same. Both can’t beat their prime counterparts but comparable with each other
@@ZPProductions ty!!! You’re very good!!:)
informative!
Hope you enjoyed it!
This one od cery small and cheaper voigt Apo skopar 90mm ? Af make sense in 50s II?
Excellent revue as usual, Im surprised that at 100mm F4 you cant get any decent bokeh? Did you try come in close for a head shot? Because any 100mm lens at f4 should give you decent bokeh when coming in for a at least half body shot or similar, Maybe the 110mm f2 has spoilt you.
Elias Pap it’s ok. As u can see in the image quality section I did that. Doesn’t cream though still unless I get very close
ZP Productions that bokeh to me is fine, I had another look at the headshots, I’m thinking of using this lens for my weddings not so much for the reception or ceremony but for the main group shots and bride and groom portraits, I am currently using two Xt 3s with the 16mm, 23mm, 56mm & 90mm, what I found is the 56mm and 90mm are amazing when compared with full frame, but when it comes to the wider lenses I find you really can’t zoom in as much, the images just don’t hold up as good as full frame or the other 56 & 90mm primes, so what I wanted to do for the main group shots was use the GFXR 50 and in combo with the 45mm-100 f4 zoom and to compliment it I was thinking of using my second body Xt3 with the 90mm lens (135mm full frame equivalent) do you think that’s a good combo also will the GFX50R keep up with portrait group shots? Or will it be to slow for that environment, Sorry for the long reply,
@@eliaspap8708 Hmmm. My only issue is the AF speed. The F4 lens AF really slow in low light, even the GFX100. In good light or outdoor, I don't think you will have a single problem . Im not too worried about image quality or speed in-terms of amount of light since you can boost ISO and GFX series at 3200 ISO is as good as APS-C ISO 800 once you size down and apply just a little noise reduction. I do agree that the wider X-Series lens isn't as great at least no where comparable to GFX series, used the 23, 16-55 and 35 before. But their longer short teles till super teles are perfectly good.
So if your subject is gonna stand there and pose for you, I'm sure it will work out just fine. Anything else that moves, use the XT3.
I came into this review thinking I would replace my 110 with this and left thinking I should just get the 45 2.8.
I don’t think the 45-110 can replace the primes unless you are a pure studio or flash user
@@ZPProductionsHave you used the GF250mm f4 yet? I'm thinking about getting it for portrait (more dramatic).
lol im dumb, i just saw your review on it.
Yah haha. I used it quite extensively . It’s still one of the nicer lens . Definitely better then any 200 on R system except bokeh
Hi again I shot alot in Church lower light settings where flash can't happen Will the 45-100 4.0 with higher ISO work with in focus pics on the 100S. I am coming from m4/3rd background where my 1.2 lenses work great but definetely don't have the MF resolving power and would not work at all at 4.0.
Ok. The only issue you will face is focusing. Gfx100 series focusing in low light is rather poor especially with the F4 and F5.6 lens. It really depends how low is low.
So F4 with 1/200 shutter iso 400 maybe ok. But if you need say iso1600 or 3200, then I will say you will face focusing issue.
At this point I recommend the R5 or Sony A1. Both have decent resolving power, and their f2.8 zooms/ f1.2 primes will do a better job
@@ZPProductions But if you raise the ISO Doesn't shutter increase producing faster focus and if MF cameras have less noise at higher ISO then FF then maybe the GF 45-100 might work...
@@philotimo5089 not really. Iso is just sensor amplification. So it’s not like there’s more light.
@@ZPProductions ISO settings indicate how rapidly your sensor gathers light..the higher the number the more rapid it gathers..the more sensitive it is. When your aperture is wide open and there is not enough light to get a stable shoot(like in a low lit church). Therfore you need a higher shutter speed by Increasing your ISO. The result with the Medium Format GFX 110S is lower noise and with the 6 spots of IBIS a sharper AF will happen more often.
@@philotimo5089
My experience with 32-64 F4 in indoor lighting is abysmal. It's so slow that my wife with an olympus EM1X and F2 lens does it way better. Also doing studio shoots and turning off studio lights result in slow AF. Still faster then say using a hasselblad but definitely turning on all the lights yield better AF speed.
Now if you are interested in modern sensor tech we can carry on discussion below. It's an interesting topic really.
Modern sensor do not gather light more rapidly. It always capture the same amount per given time. It's the processing after that that gives the ISO. It's also this processing that result in noise. Yes raising iso gives a sharper photo and IBIS does improve AF as it makes comparison easier, but it doesnt change the fact the camera is still taking in light at the same pace just processed differently. You can take a look at DPReview article on ISO in modern sensor. It a little more complicated than amplification, but the sensor do not increase the rapidness of gathering light. It just treats it to get to that "ISO". Theres also the concept of ISO-Invariant of modern camera sensor that maybe useful for reading.
GFX100 sensor has 2 amplification stage, one at ISO100 and the other at 800. Anything in between is close to the same as as using exposure push in lightroom. The link below depicts dynamic range which is technically information capture in various iso given the same time. You will notice two peaks and thats cause at 800 a cleaner amplifier is used. www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm
Now what I am not very sure is when AF is done. Before or after amplification stage (as such that dual amplifier makes a diff) Im guessing is after, but it also does mean that once you go pass 800, its just downwards in terms of information available given the same time and this kinda mess around with the AF.
Prime lenses more sharpen than zoom lens ya
Mm = millimeters lol