What's the difference between the 435 and the 440? The 435 is listed at 2.2HP and the 440 at 2.4HP. The owners manual says they have the same bore and stroke the same carb on both of them. Yet one has .2 HP more? They are even listed as the same weight. The only difference I can see listed in any official place is the 435 has a 16 inch bar and the 440 an 18. Is it the timing or something? are they both 2.2 or 2.4 and it's a marketing thing?
I think the cylinder is a different part number. That might be where they got all that extra power 🙂The 435 is offered as a 16". Sometimes I think they create models just to compete directly with other brands models. They sure have a lot of choices in the line up.
Great video, I have a 435 thats sentimental to me it was my first brand new saw and my brother got it for me. I had about 40 maybe 45 hours on it was cutting turned it off to move some branches and I wasn't able to get it started....for 6 years. I tried everything I could think of new hoses new filters new plug no go, pulled it until I broke the cord, so I put it back on the shelf and there she sat for quite a while, then I went and decided to mess with it again and bought a new carburetor for it replaced the hoses again and still no go, so back on the shelf she went after I broke the pull cord for the 3rd time. This year I pulled her out and replaced the ignition coil and got her to start up, she idels fine but every time i hit the gas she chokes out on me, any idea what I could do to get her going? I saw in the comments you told someone 2 full turns on the hi and 2 1/2 on the low for tuning it which is way more then everyone else says to do, I'm not up super high but 4000 feet in elevation would thay make much of a difference. I think it's just a tuning the carburetor issue now but I have been at it for the last week and I'm about ready to make it a paper weight again but I need a running saw and my sthil is in need of some work as it has close to 600 hours on it from the last 2 years.
@@TheGreasyShopRag no I made sure to empty the fuel and then removed the carb and cleaned it before putting new fuel in it. I cam start it up and she runs and if I slowly give it gas she will start to rev up then die. Last night I went and double checked my gap for my ignition coil after watching your video and made sure it was .03 and then removed the fuel filter and hooked a vacuum pump to the line and she held at 20 psi without any leaks so new carb new filters new fuel lines new ignition coil new plug and she starts and idles but dies when i give her gas. I'm at a loss here. Been working on this saw trying to get her going again for a long long time because she isn't even broken in with less than 50 hours used on her. Idk.
@@tristinstorm5858 Three things come to mind. If you put 20 pounds of pressure on the fuel line then I think the needle should have popped off its seat but clearly it didn't not sure why. Did you ever look into the cylinder and see if its scored? Did you do a pressure/vacuum test on the engine? You probably didn't and i understand why. How about the gasket between the carb and intake. Does the little impulse hole line up with that gasket or even the carb if its a knocjk off?
@@tristinstorm5858 Ok forget about that then but if those replacement carbs were not OEM then check the gaskets and ports to see if everything lines up.
I got a new one of these and it doesn’t seem to start that well or idle well until it’s warmed up. Assume the carb screws need to be adjusted? Is there a factory setting to start at?
Base settings for that saw should be 2 turns out for the hi speed with a max rpm of 12,500-13,000 with bar and chain. Start 2.5 turns out for the low. If it doesn't idle well until its warm there is a fair chance you need to back out the low speed screw a bit.
Tore my Husqvarna 36 saw apart. Found the impulse tube deteriorated. Checked all your Husqvarna videos. All had common setups. Which Stihl saw would you recommend to look for? Thanks
@@TheGreasyShopRag majority use a front carb support, a back plate with nipple , throttle linkage, etc. stihl trimmers same top/ bottom, clutch, etc. i assumed that basic stihl saws would share common features. If I could get one or two then would have an idea about them. Hope that made sense.
@@steveriggenbach90 I've seen a few different basic designs with the Stihl saws but I refuse to memorize their stupid model number system. WTF were they thinking?
Yeah. That chain break. A year ago one of the 435's came back at the end of the day with the chain bar cover off...oh yeah, and a broken...pull drum? I think that's what its called. I could not figure out why that cover would not go back on...until..pwfff. The brake is on and to switch that back, gota take the brake lever off the saw. I figured that out recently. (last weak) That saw became a parts saw for a year and that was a mistake. A few months ago the other 435 comes back at the end of the day with the pull cord hanging out. Same person broke another pull drum. Don't have a spare...it broke last year...I ordered 6 because I thought, maybe these tend to break. So while I'm waiting I have a moment to work on this saw and I go to start it with a drill.... and it spins and spins and nothing. No spark. Bad ignition coil. Okay. I have a spare on the other 435. Put that on and spin that drill and spin that drill and no spark.⏳🤔...💡 Yup. And that is why the broken pull drums. That phuhq'n short to ground "off switch" technique. I'm telling you that can not be a coincidence. R & D got a bonus when they thought that up. Never did find the first bar cover nut. 5 chainsaws and (gas powered) only 2 working. The Huskys are just a gremlin camp currently. My nice Echo CS345...was running awesome as usual. Came back one day, no cover on the air filter/carb section...that is on the front...where all the cutting happens...Dug enough wood out of there to make a box of tooth picks. $30...new cover...put it together, try starting it and it-just -doesn't- want-to-pull correctly. Pop the spark plug out and it feels spongy and my skin temperature causes the AC to kick on. If one of the Stihls goes down...I'm taking both and handing out sharpened axes and hand saws...for Honey Locust's tree removal I'm sorry for the vent. I like your format. -must-👆- button... click 👍! ...I don't want to break open the case on my Echo. It was my dads.🙁 But I'm going to have to.
I’ve Actually Had Palm Tree Hair All Caught In The Oiler Gear Under The Clutch Drum and Worked It’s Way Into The Crank Seal and Cause a Wont Stay Running Situation And Have Had to Replace The Seal Too Fix it If It’s Caught Before A Lean Seizure of The Piston In Florida Palm Trees Are Everywhere 😩🤕😬
Great overview, love the captioning to explain content without having to speak while you are doing the job. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for wayching!
Great information. Got a nice saw due the coil gap got bigger. I was waiting to see if you removed the shim, lol. Been there…done that myself.
Great video! Were you adjusting the idle screw to tune it just right or the carburetor?
I just brought the idle speed up enough to keep it running. Later I'd take it outside and adjust the carb.
What's the difference between the 435 and the 440? The 435 is listed at 2.2HP and the 440 at 2.4HP. The owners manual says they have the same bore and stroke the same carb on both of them. Yet one has .2 HP more? They are even listed as the same weight. The only difference I can see listed in any official place is the 435 has a 16 inch bar and the 440 an 18. Is it the timing or something? are they both 2.2 or 2.4 and it's a marketing thing?
I think the cylinder is a different part number. That might be where they got all that extra power 🙂The 435 is offered as a 16". Sometimes I think they create models just to compete directly with other brands models. They sure have a lot of choices in the line up.
Great video, I have a 435 thats sentimental to me it was my first brand new saw and my brother got it for me. I had about 40 maybe 45 hours on it was cutting turned it off to move some branches and I wasn't able to get it started....for 6 years. I tried everything I could think of new hoses new filters new plug no go, pulled it until I broke the cord, so I put it back on the shelf and there she sat for quite a while, then I went and decided to mess with it again and bought a new carburetor for it replaced the hoses again and still no go, so back on the shelf she went after I broke the pull cord for the 3rd time. This year I pulled her out and replaced the ignition coil and got her to start up, she idels fine but every time i hit the gas she chokes out on me, any idea what I could do to get her going? I saw in the comments you told someone 2 full turns on the hi and 2 1/2 on the low for tuning it which is way more then everyone else says to do, I'm not up super high but 4000 feet in elevation would thay make much of a difference. I think it's just a tuning the carburetor issue now but I have been at it for the last week and I'm about ready to make it a paper weight again but I need a running saw and my sthil is in need of some work as it has close to 600 hours on it from the last 2 years.
Did it still have fuel in the carb from the last time you tried starting it? Maybe that fuel is the new problem.
@@TheGreasyShopRag no I made sure to empty the fuel and then removed the carb and cleaned it before putting new fuel in it. I cam start it up and she runs and if I slowly give it gas she will start to rev up then die. Last night I went and double checked my gap for my ignition coil after watching your video and made sure it was .03 and then removed the fuel filter and hooked a vacuum pump to the line and she held at 20 psi without any leaks so new carb new filters new fuel lines new ignition coil new plug and she starts and idles but dies when i give her gas. I'm at a loss here. Been working on this saw trying to get her going again for a long long time because she isn't even broken in with less than 50 hours used on her. Idk.
I meant 10 psi
@@tristinstorm5858 Three things come to mind. If you put 20 pounds of pressure on the fuel line then I think the needle should have popped off its seat but clearly it didn't not sure why. Did you ever look into the cylinder and see if its scored? Did you do a pressure/vacuum test on the engine? You probably didn't and i understand why. How about the gasket between the carb and intake. Does the little impulse hole line up with that gasket or even the carb if its a knocjk off?
@@tristinstorm5858 Ok forget about that then but if those replacement carbs were not OEM then check the gaskets and ports to see if everything lines up.
I got a new one of these and it doesn’t seem to start that well or idle well until it’s warmed up. Assume the carb screws need to be adjusted? Is there a factory setting to start at?
Base settings for that saw should be 2 turns out for the hi speed with a max rpm of 12,500-13,000 with bar and chain. Start 2.5 turns out for the low. If it doesn't idle well until its warm there is a fair chance you need to back out the low speed screw a bit.
Tore my Husqvarna 36 saw apart. Found the impulse tube deteriorated. Checked all your Husqvarna videos. All had common setups. Which Stihl saw would you recommend to look for? Thanks
I'm not sure what you mean by "all have common setups". Do you mean a separate impulse tube rather than integrated in the boot?
@@TheGreasyShopRag majority use a front carb support, a back plate with nipple , throttle linkage, etc. stihl trimmers same top/ bottom, clutch, etc. i assumed that basic stihl saws would share common features. If I could get one or two then would have an idea about them. Hope that made sense.
@@steveriggenbach90 I've seen a few different basic designs with the Stihl saws but I refuse to memorize their stupid model number system. WTF were they thinking?
@@TheGreasyShopRag they weren’t
Great job bud, what grease is that. It's in a good size tube. Thanks
Official Husqvarna grease. Not sure of the part number but I'll try to remember to check tommorow.
I was just editing a video that showed the part number for that tube of Husky grease. Its 596287601.
I don't understand people eliminating the spark arrestor screen. It's not a big deal to remove, clean, and reinstall them.
Agreed.
Agree also. Like putting a loud race muffler on an old PINTO. NOT worth it. Chance of fire also
Yeah. That chain break. A year ago one of the 435's came back at the end of the day with the chain bar cover off...oh yeah, and a broken...pull drum? I think that's what its called.
I could not figure out why that cover would not go back on...until..pwfff. The brake is on and to switch that back, gota take the brake lever off the saw. I figured that out recently. (last weak) That saw became a parts saw for a year and that was a mistake.
A few months ago the other 435 comes back at the end of the day with the pull cord hanging out. Same person broke another pull drum. Don't have a spare...it broke last year...I ordered 6 because I thought, maybe these tend to break. So while I'm waiting I have a moment to work on this saw and I go to start it with a drill.... and it spins and spins and nothing. No spark. Bad ignition coil. Okay. I have a spare on the other 435. Put that on and spin that drill and spin that drill and no spark.⏳🤔...💡
Yup. And that is why the broken pull drums.
That phuhq'n short to ground "off switch" technique. I'm telling you that can not be a coincidence. R & D got a bonus when they thought that up.
Never did find the first bar cover nut.
5 chainsaws and (gas powered) only 2 working. The Huskys are just a gremlin camp currently.
My nice Echo CS345...was running awesome as usual. Came back one day, no cover on the air filter/carb section...that is on the front...where all the cutting happens...Dug enough wood out of there to make a box of tooth picks. $30...new cover...put it together, try starting it and it-just -doesn't- want-to-pull correctly. Pop the spark plug out and it feels spongy and my skin temperature causes the AC to kick on.
If one of the Stihls goes down...I'm taking both and handing out sharpened axes and hand saws...for Honey Locust's tree removal
I'm sorry for the vent.
I like your format.
-must-👆- button... click 👍!
...I don't want to break open the case on my Echo. It was my dads.🙁 But I'm going to have to.
No problem, interesting read. Thanks for posting!
I’ve Actually Had Palm Tree Hair All Caught In The Oiler Gear Under The Clutch Drum and Worked It’s Way Into The Crank Seal and Cause a Wont Stay Running Situation And Have Had to Replace The Seal Too Fix it If It’s Caught Before A Lean Seizure of The Piston In Florida Palm Trees Are Everywhere 😩🤕😬
I've seen that a few times with grass in hedge clippers.
When I went to meet up with the guys from ECHO, they told us that palm trees are the most common problem for failures over there
@@israellopez9147 They Were Not Joking I See a Couple Saws a Week That are Cooked From Palm Debris And Clogged Cylinder Fins 😩🥵🥵😩😭
@@israellopez9147 I have no experience with palms but I've heard the same.
Where do I go to meet you
Thx
Thanks for watching!
Is that .010 gap for air gap ?
.3mm which is .011"
What's the gas ratio
The manufacturer recommends 50:1
How much do you charge to do somthing like you just did?
Usually 1/2 hour labor plus parts.
Did you forget to show how you checked the spark plug gap? ;-)
I musta gapped it by eyeball. 🙂
@@TheGreasyShopRag That does not work for me; I have cross-eyed balls.
@@rooster3019 your poor balls