Отличная работа! Недавно стал наблюдать за Вашими роликами и понимаю, что последние 4 года я тоже все правильно делаю, но все равно, есть чему поучиться. Очень профессиональный подход. Благодарю.
On another old (third) Sony I've just finished work on (TC-161SD), I had to part drill out one end of the pinch roller pin as it wouldn't budge. I got it out all fine after tapping with a punch, but of course I then had to very carefully ream out this smaller hole to line up with the opposing hole. The pin has to be orthogonal in x, y, and z axes. My replacement 'pin' was a 12mm steel rivet - don't laugh, but it works a treat!, although I would prefer to replace like you did. The nice thing about the 'head' on the rivet is that it acts as a 'stopper' too. I know it's not proper engineering, but sometimes alternative solutions are neccessary. I've enjoyed watching this upload, many thanks for your time. I made a few pathetic videos several months ago - it so time consuming, so I appreciate the work that goes into these!
Thank you. I watched your videos, well done. Yes, it's incredibly time consuming and expensive as well. This subject matter is also a very small niche interest, so the chance of ever recovering even a nickle of the investment is probably less than zero.
Great video ! , I like the long format . Time for more people to subscribe and enjoy this retro repair channel . I just finished my Denon DRM740, easy belt change and capacitors replaced. An added a fuse holder , and improved the shielding under the heads.
Thanks for the video, the format is great and the fast-forward scenes are well managed. Man, I wish that work could be carried out on my DR-M24HX, which is very noisy mechanically and can't FF or REW quickly. Subscribed!
@@asbcustom Thanks ASB, but I'm in Denmark, Europe and I'm guessing you're in the US. Too far, too expensive shipping + customs. I'm looking high and low for a 2nd hand deck at the moment, any model, just newer than 1989 in the hopes that it won't be deteriorated as much. But I'm sure it's a lottery. I regret not digitizing my old band rehearsal tapes from the 1980's sooner, ugh ;-)
Ah Denmark, a magical place! I see you do some mastering on your channel, nice work. Some clients send only their transports, that might be a possible solution, I believe I have a functional M24 here with which I could test the rebuild, I'd have to check on that though.
Excelente ASB Custom, a mi gusta como haces el video, que lo pones a una velocidad mas rápida, en cosas que se sabe se toma mucho tiempo, y mientras haces eso vas indicando lo que haces, tiene su trabajo de edición. pero muy buen trabajo, ese Deck va a quedar mejor que nuevo.
One more comment to bore the socks off everyone, and that is with a dual capstan setup, preparing a cassette with a few sections cut-out to observe tape flow is recommended. Signing off. :) Eric.
I am very impressed with your knowledge, skills, patience and equipment. I have an issue with a DR-M22 I just bought. A loop of tape appears from time to time by the left capstan. Could it be a mechanical or electronic problem leading an incorrect relative speed between the two capstans? Any idea?
Long format all the way ! Excelent videos, as always, a please to watch your work and learn more on how to properly restore these decks !!! What is the name of the tool you used to pull the rolles pins out ? The one with multiple holes that is used as support when happering the pin ?
There are so many questions I could ask, and also give feedback to you on some of my procedures. In your opinion, must there be some kind of shallow centre 'bowing' on a new pinch roller? I've grinded some of my old pinch rollers down, but leaving a shallow bow, but they are not as efficient as a good, new pinch, apparently 'flat' roller. On a dual capstan machine, the pinch rollers have to be really good, especially on the supply side to allow proper and consistent 'slip' to occur. If this doesn't happen azimuth errors begin to appear very quickly (one can hear it with headphones), ignoring of course the more dramatics 'chewing' of tape.
In this video at about this time stamp: ua-cam.com/video/L1ZD8Fzk6V8/v-deo.html, I use an optical comparator to determine the profile of a brand new Tascam pinch roller, then duplicate that form on a grinding wheel. I've experimented with flat profiles on cassettes, as found on most reel decks, but found them inadequate as far as tracking goes. It's too bad because a flat is much easier to precision grind. As for "slippage", I hear a lot of speculation presented as fact about this. I've worked on numerous mechanicals, and with many mechanical engineers, and have never once seen "slippage" used as a property in something like this. It's just not easily quantifiable, repeatable, or economically manufactured. At something like 1 RPM difference between capstan rotations, I think more likely, what the design parameter is based around, is tape stretch. Specifically what I found in my own experiments, is that the flat pinch roller caused unrecoverable tape skewing, then when I ground the correct radius on the same exact pinch roller, not changing any other parameter, the tape tracked correctly. I will add though that any operation to a pinch roller, other than scrubbing with a stiff nylon brush, will negatively affect its profile and sphericity, I would recommend against it.
Thank you for watching. I don't have a list but I'm pretty deliberate about showing all the lables in the videos because I know people are interested in that.
@@asbcustomThanks for the quick reply and for such informative videos. I’ll scrub through and see what I can pickup on. I should have made notes when watching the first time! I did catch the fader lubricant over D5 and Krytox, but not sure which formula. Krytox has quite a few options and the product is not cheap.
@@user-pilk That's true on the Krytox, I use GP205 and 207 mostly. The capstan bearing lube's lable is also worn off, I use Isoflex PDP65 or 68 for that.
###PLEASE HELP### I've attempted my first belt change on my DR 34 HR and now the the take up spools aren't working, you can hear the motor spinning but it wont rewind, fast forward play. The capstan are spinning and pulling the tape through.
@@asbcustom yes. The deck was suffering from bad wow and flutter that's why I decided to change belts. Wish I had not bothered lol. Thanks for the advice. Dean
In that case I would remove the front cover plate (the plate just behind the cassette in the well), so the idler is visible, and determine where the fault lies.
Отличная работа, скажите пожалуйста,вы можете подсказать с ремонтом Denon dr- m11 ,включается питание,основной двигатель крутится, вращается тонвалл,а больше ничего не работает не реагирует на кнопки и не поднимается панель с головками для воспроизведения, буду признателен любому совету и помощи!!!
Thank you for watching. I don't know, it could be many things. Check for loose wires, solder joints, broken gears, determine if the control motor spins or not. That's where I would start.
Отлично, спасибо,я так и думал, ещё хочу проверить конденсаторы на плате питания, никогда раньше не сталкивался с самим транспортом Денон, довольно сложно для моего первого раза, спасибо большое за ответ и понимание
thanks for sharing such a detailed servicing.watched it several time to try to solve issues with my deck.however one remains still,perhaps you know the work around ;the idler wheel arm of my deck doesn't swing correctly,the idler wheel got stuck in the wrong position when pressing wind,rewind or play button,messing up and chewing the tape......thanks a lot for your help.
first of all thanks for the immediate answer.actually it is not completly stuck but the assemble doesn'tswing between either reel to have proper engagement. i mean it is free to move but it doesn't,even when you change the direction of the tape by pressing ffw or rw or play button.once more thanks for your support.
@@asbcustom hi peter,thanks for the follow up,idler tire is in good shape (according to your video)diameter is 17mm,i have no skills to upload video,may i send it to your email address if you have one?rgds
@@asbcustom thanks for the follow up,th idler wheel,according to your video,is in good shape (17 mm diameter).i have no skills to upload video,may i send it to your emai address if you have one?thanks.rgds
You've inspired me to tear into mine. Starting with the transport. I have a belt, idler, and pinch rollers on the way.
Thanks for watching!
Great work. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
The longer the better for me. I really enjoy watching you work with the great tenacity to get it near perfect.
Thank you for your feedback!
Awesome job so far. But that wiring mess is the worst I have seen in a very long time. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!
Here it is, following a bit of cable management: ua-cam.com/video/EowGK7uxwAI/v-deo.html
I've been looking forward to a new video from you. Best show on TV tonight!
Thank you Mr. Steney!
Отличная работа! Недавно стал наблюдать за Вашими роликами и понимаю, что последние 4 года я тоже все правильно делаю, но все равно, есть чему поучиться. Очень профессиональный подход. Благодарю.
Спасибо за просмотр и комментарий!
Добрый вечер,хочу попросить помощи в ремонте дэки Denon dr-m11,буду признателен за любой совет и помощь!!! Я из РБ есть Вайбер и Ватсапп.
@@user-fl8xr2qr9n здравствуйте. А это вопрос мне или автору канала?
Thanks for the video. Everything was very useful and exciting. Your experience should be passed on to interested people. Thank you again very much.
Thank you for watching!
Спасибо! Прекрасный ролик!
Спасибо за просмотр!
On another old (third) Sony I've just finished work on (TC-161SD), I had to part drill out one end of the pinch roller pin as it wouldn't budge. I got it out all fine after tapping with a punch, but of course I then had to very carefully ream out this smaller hole to line up with the opposing hole. The pin has to be orthogonal in x, y, and z axes. My replacement 'pin' was a 12mm steel rivet - don't laugh, but it works a treat!, although I would prefer to replace like you did. The nice thing about the 'head' on the rivet is that it acts as a 'stopper' too. I know it's not proper engineering, but sometimes alternative solutions are neccessary.
I've enjoyed watching this upload, many thanks for your time. I made a few pathetic videos several months ago - it so time consuming, so I appreciate the work that goes into these!
Thank you. I watched your videos, well done. Yes, it's incredibly time consuming and expensive as well. This subject matter is also a very small niche interest, so the chance of ever recovering even a nickle of the investment is probably less than zero.
Great video ! , I like the long format . Time for more people to subscribe and enjoy this retro repair channel . I just finished my Denon DRM740, easy belt change and capacitors replaced. An added a fuse holder , and improved the shielding under the heads.
Thank you so much!
Could you show us your shielding solution? I'd really like to see it.
Thanks for the video, the format is great and the fast-forward scenes are well managed. Man, I wish that work could be carried out on my DR-M24HX, which is very noisy mechanically and can't FF or REW quickly. Subscribed!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your comments.
I can do your 24HX if you're not in a hurry, sounds like it needs it.
@@asbcustom Thanks ASB, but I'm in Denmark, Europe and I'm guessing you're in the US. Too far, too expensive shipping + customs. I'm looking high and low for a 2nd hand deck at the moment, any model, just newer than 1989 in the hopes that it won't be deteriorated as much. But I'm sure it's a lottery. I regret not digitizing my old band rehearsal tapes from the 1980's sooner, ugh ;-)
Ah Denmark, a magical place! I see you do some mastering on your channel, nice work.
Some clients send only their transports, that might be a possible solution, I believe I have a functional M24 here with which I could test the rebuild, I'd have to check on that though.
❤ I really appreciate your comments, but please don't use precious time on checking on M24, before I decide what to do.
Excelente ASB Custom, a mi gusta como haces el video, que lo pones a una velocidad mas rápida, en cosas que se sabe se toma mucho tiempo, y mientras haces eso vas indicando lo que haces, tiene su trabajo de edición. pero muy buen trabajo, ese Deck va a quedar mejor que nuevo.
Gracias Nelson, agradezco tus comentarios.
That's interesting, I didn't realise Denon made direct-drive decks. The models I've seen have been belt-drive
They made several in the 80's, good machines those, and easy to work on.
@@asbcustom My DRM-22 is a belt drive, and I think so is the DRM-33. I guess the DRM-44 is direct drive.
That's correct.
One more comment to bore the socks off everyone, and that is with a dual capstan setup, preparing a cassette with a few sections cut-out to observe tape flow is recommended.
Signing off. :)
Eric.
Something like this: ua-cam.com/video/d9gA3xJDsiQ/v-deo.html ?
@@asbcustom Ooooppss! You've been there then - great stuff! I'll save that link! ;)
I am very impressed with your knowledge, skills, patience and equipment. I have an issue with a DR-M22 I just bought. A loop of tape appears from time to time by the left capstan. Could it be a mechanical or electronic problem leading an incorrect relative speed between the two capstans? Any idea?
Thank you for your comments.
It could be either but I would start with a good cleaning of the tape path and see where that leads.
It would have been an even bigger 'rats nest' if it was all discrete components. ;o)
Indeed, like the old Akai's I've worked on.
Long format all the way ! Excelent videos, as always, a please to watch your work and learn more on how to properly restore these decks !!!
What is the name of the tool you used to pull the rolles pins out ? The one with multiple holes that is used as support when happering the pin ?
Thank you for the feedback. It's called a bench block but really, any hardwood or MDF with a hole would work just as well. Good luck!
There are so many questions I could ask, and also give feedback to you on some of my procedures.
In your opinion, must there be some kind of shallow centre 'bowing' on a new pinch roller? I've grinded some of my old pinch rollers down, but leaving a shallow bow, but they are not as efficient as a good, new pinch, apparently 'flat' roller. On a dual capstan machine, the pinch rollers have to be really good, especially on the supply side to allow proper and consistent 'slip' to occur. If this doesn't happen azimuth errors begin to appear very quickly (one can hear it with headphones), ignoring of course the more dramatics 'chewing' of tape.
In this video at about this time stamp: ua-cam.com/video/L1ZD8Fzk6V8/v-deo.html, I use an optical comparator to determine the profile of a brand new Tascam pinch roller, then duplicate that form on a grinding wheel. I've experimented with flat profiles on cassettes, as found on most reel decks, but found them inadequate as far as tracking goes. It's too bad because a flat is much easier to precision grind.
As for "slippage", I hear a lot of speculation presented as fact about this. I've worked on numerous mechanicals, and with many mechanical engineers, and have never once seen "slippage" used as a property in something like this. It's just not easily quantifiable, repeatable, or economically manufactured. At something like 1 RPM difference between capstan rotations, I think more likely, what the design parameter is based around, is tape stretch. Specifically what I found in my own experiments, is that the flat pinch roller caused unrecoverable tape skewing, then when I ground the correct radius on the same exact pinch roller, not changing any other parameter, the tape tracked correctly. I will add though that any operation to a pinch roller, other than scrubbing with a stiff nylon brush, will negatively affect its profile and sphericity, I would recommend against it.
i have a audible buzz from my dr-m20 at higher volume is there a reason for this the deck works fine just that annoying buzz/humm
There is a reason, yes. It shouldn't do that.
Any chance of a list of cleaners, oils and different lubricants you use along with tools that supply them?
Thank you for watching.
I don't have a list but I'm pretty deliberate about showing all the lables in the videos because I know people are interested in that.
@@asbcustomThanks for the quick reply and for such informative videos. I’ll scrub through and see what I can pickup on. I should have made notes when watching the first time! I did catch the fader lubricant over D5 and Krytox, but not sure which formula. Krytox has quite a few options and the product is not cheap.
@@user-pilk That's true on the Krytox, I use GP205 and 207 mostly. The capstan bearing lube's lable is also worn off, I use Isoflex PDP65 or 68 for that.
Sterling service.
Thank you!
Where did you get the new idler tyre?
I have these in stock and plan to list them when I get a chance. If you need one now, I'll send it to you.
@@asbcustom Thanks, it should fit in my DRM-22
###PLEASE HELP### I've attempted my first belt change on my DR 34 HR and now the the take up spools aren't working, you can hear the motor spinning but it wont rewind, fast forward play. The capstan are spinning and pulling the tape through.
The spool motor sounds as though it's not turning, possibly a broken wire at the solder joint. I assume it was functioning prior to re-belting?
@@asbcustom thanks for your reply. The spool motor is spinning, just doesn't seem to be engaging with the rubber wheel.
Was it functioning prior to the belt change?
@@asbcustom yes. The deck was suffering from bad wow and flutter that's why I decided to change belts. Wish I had not bothered lol. Thanks for the advice. Dean
In that case I would remove the front cover plate (the plate just behind the cassette in the well), so the idler is visible, and determine where the fault lies.
Отличная работа, скажите пожалуйста,вы можете подсказать с ремонтом Denon dr- m11 ,включается питание,основной двигатель крутится, вращается тонвалл,а больше ничего не работает не реагирует на кнопки и не поднимается панель с головками для воспроизведения, буду признателен любому совету и помощи!!!
Thank you for watching.
I don't know, it could be many things. Check for loose wires, solder joints, broken gears, determine if the control motor spins or not. That's where I would start.
Спасибо, основной двигатель вращается,а вот двигатель подъёма головок нет и питание на него не приходит...
Then I would power the motor with an external power supply and see if it's bad.
Отлично, спасибо,я так и думал, ещё хочу проверить конденсаторы на плате питания, никогда раньше не сталкивался с самим транспортом Денон, довольно сложно для моего первого раза, спасибо большое за ответ и понимание
You're very welcome. Good luck, I'm certain you'll find the problem.
thanks for sharing such a detailed servicing.watched it several time to try to solve issues with my deck.however one remains still,perhaps you know the work around ;the idler wheel arm of my deck doesn't swing correctly,the idler wheel got stuck in the wrong position when pressing wind,rewind or play button,messing up and chewing the tape......thanks a lot for your help.
It got stuck? It doesn't move now?
first of all thanks for the immediate answer.actually it is not completly stuck but the assemble doesn'tswing between either reel to have proper engagement. i mean it is free to move but it doesn't,even when you change the direction of the tape by pressing ffw or rw or play button.once more thanks for your support.
"it is free to move but it doesn't", this confuses me. Can you upload a video? Have you changed the idler tire?
@@asbcustom hi peter,thanks for the follow up,idler tire is in good shape (according to your video)diameter is 17mm,i have no skills to upload video,may i send it to your email address if you have one?rgds
@@asbcustom thanks for the follow up,th idler wheel,according to your video,is in good shape (17 mm diameter).i have no skills to upload video,may i send it to your emai address if you have one?thanks.rgds