Відео

The 112b doesn't have a "c" gear. I sell the idler tires here: www.ebay.com/itm/234128158021

Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much, and thank you for watching. The door dampener uses friction grease and an o-ring. The small screw on the back is the adjustment, backing it out a bit should speed up the door for you.

Thank you for your rapid response and I will follow your advice because I know you truly know what you’re doing

Thank you for watching!

Johnny Cash you say? Boy, how would that be. Thanks for watching but I gotta go, I hear the train a comin' ...

Thank you for your kind words.

Thank you.

Thank you so much!

Thank you!

Thanks Vadim!

I don't understand the reference?

Thank you for your kind words, and congratulations on your new mini-lathe! If I may, I'd like to recommend a series of books I think you might enjoy. Firstly, the "Workshop Practice Series", by various authors, and to go along with it, "Fundamentals Of Dimensional Metrology" by Ted Busch. This one will help you avoid all the pitfalls of the inevitable wives tales and superstitions inherent in the discipline. Best of luck on your new endeavor!

@@asbcustom Thank you so, so much for the reply and recommendation of study materials. I would definitely read them. In the mean time, I hope you won't mind I make some inquiry about the essential measurement tools for cassette deck restoration. I've already purchased a digital micrometer as a starter, and I see in your video that you are using lever type DTI gauge a lot to check for concentricity. (I hope I'm getting the tool's name correctly.) I guess it will be the next tool I should purchase?

@@samoworks4648 Really, the next tool would be at least one of the lathe operation books in the series. That will help you to understand better what is needed for the operations you wish to perform. They have quite a few, I read the Myford one about 40 years ago and found it invaluable. It may have been this one: www.amazon.com/Basic-Lathework-Workshop-Practice-Stan/dp/1854862618/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?crid=2FQ395G56LSAF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.41uLcpV9Roh_E6cpPKZEtd8PxMOxCx-3OcddPdL_Lf18NwTrrVFP-EUUsd0f7T3B.s4Sej4VdLQ0u_z4bMxs7lGCSWrH7Ty0Hk-BjK6BaXJA&dib_tag=se&keywords=workshop+practice+series+myford&qid=1727633230&s=books&sprefix=workshop+practice+series+myford%2Cstripbooks%2C151&sr=1-1-fkmr0

Agreed, they made a plastic chassis, then fitted it with metal parts and surrounded it with a metal case. Their reasoning escapes me?

I only like distortion from guitar amps.

Ha! Thank you!

Yasou Vadim, and thank you!

They shouldn't get away with poor packaging, they made it right with me, but still ...

Okay .. thanks.

"Fill" isn't the right word if I used it. I'm theorizing, rather, that it may partially short the larger pits, preventing the creation of eddy currents. At very minimum, it's a very hard and slick surface coat that should help prevent wear.

Yasou Vadim! Most of the type 1 calibrations I see ask for a small rise in the toe of the curve, yes, but tend to be more level on types 2 and 4. This one asks for about +1db on type 2. Some machines can handle it better than others, I would rate this one closer to the middle, not quite in the "finicky" category but approaching it.

@@asbcustom I wrote you an email, read it! I shared an interesting idea with you!👌

Okay, I have it. I'll watch it tonight. Thanks!

Ah go ahead, get yourself one :)

Thank you Nelson!

Thank you so much!

I can't recall what he said he paid for these but I know it was much more reasonable than that. I'm just happy someone still has them. My thrift stores used to sell them for pennies, then all of a sudden stopped. So sad ...

These are $9.99 for a five pack, US. Plus tax of course. Roughly $2.12 per cassette. I'm not waiting for a clearance. If we don't buy them, they'll quit selling them. Our hobby is a pretty small group of people, so sales of cassettes most likely aren't a high priority for any retailer.

You're probably right!

Just regular old Scotch tape.

Thank you for watching, I welcome all to comment.

Please contact from the e-mail link or my Website at asbcustom.com. Thank you.

Haha, thanks Vadim! I actually wore those finger cots so you wouldn't have to look at my perpetually stained hands. I grow tomatoes vertically, and they require daily pruning and tying. That stain is present all summer and slowly wears away after the last harvest, then returns the following spring, nothing removes it but wear. I've tried creams, the doc even gave me some prescription stuff to try, I'm afraid a lifetime of the type of work I do isn't going to be removed by a hand cream. It's okay though, it's an honest living. Thanks again for watching!

@@asbcustom 😁👍👍👍

Thank you for that information. As I said, I was going by the things I've read online and am attempting to understand the phenomenon. This happens passively then, by the motion of the tape past the pits I assume. Does it stop when the motion stops, or retain it's magnetic field until the head is energized for recording? Why are there reports of lapping solving the issue? I made my own rudimentary test and found no high frequency roll off after 10 replays on Type 1 tape. I had also applied two coats of a ceramic glide coat following the lapping, could this be a short-term solution? Could anything like a grounded housing help to bleed off some of the charge? Thanks again, this is very valuable.

@@asbcustomThe effect doesn't depend on whether the head is energized or not, or on any other external conditions. It happens passively, only when the tape is moving. Lapping can't completely solve it because new defects get uncovered from the underlying mass of material. It can only become as good as new or slightly better. If the ceramic coat is durable enough, it might be a viable solution, but it needs further testing. I've successfully tried applying a 50um copper adhesive tape, it is quite durable, has low friction, doesn't affect W&F. But in that case Type II/IV tapes can't be fully erased.

@@SSTC. Fascinating. I was completely unaware of this before the deck's owner sent me a link about it. Just thinking out loud here, it may be that the reason lapping reduces the effect is due to lower overall friction, and the softening of the pitted edges, possibly until they wear again. The ceramic glide coat may partially fill the porous ferrite, I don't know, but I can certainly try it on a new head, and look at it up close again. I'll also run more frequency sweeps and film them, I think it's important to get this one sorted. The other thought I had was possibly designing a mechanism to manually lower the erase head when not it use. It wouldn't be all that difficult, and may not even need to be more than a thousandth or two off the gap.

Haha, I cobbled up that basket probably 30 years ago, it’s roasted acres of chile peppers! I normally put a service tag on the inside of the back, but I'll place yours on the outside as requested. Thanks for watching until the end!

@@asbcustom You do exceptional work and your logo should be proudly displayed on the exterior of the deck. That's my opinion, others may not want to alter the factory appearance.

Thank you.

Not to worry, I'm satisfied with my solution.

Thanks Nelson!

Well, those dimensions don't make sense but okay. Let me know how you like the Chinese rubber.

I got some from over there for the JVC DD-7 and DD-99 - I have my doubts too but we'll see.

I e-mailed a supplier some time ago asking about custom manufacturing these to my spec., I did not get a reply, Maybe I'll try again.

Yes you would. Hope you enjoy following along, it's fun doing it this way. Years before UA-cam, I had a "Current Projects" page on my old Website where clients could watch the progress with a slideshow sort of thing. It was a lot of work, but I liked doing it.

@@asbcustom I'm glad you found the broken part.

@@asbcustom Your meticulous attention to detail is greatly appreciated.

It helped, it gave me a length without needing to figure it out from scratch.

No kidding. Was the door broken as well?

@@asbcustom 😂 No, it's fine.

That's great. Not to brag, but mine has a better door latch post. :)

Thank you for that, I appreciate it. Did lapping solve your problem then?

@@asbcustom yes.10 Times playing Type 1 Tapes now Drops only 2 dB at max.Before lapping highs Drops about 5 to 7 dB playing the Tape 3 Times.Lapping was Made by a German Guy,but i don't remember his Name 😔

Thank you, that's valuable information.

Thank you for watching. I've mentioned it a few times. I use dish soap, warm water, and a soft brass brush, the kind available at welding supply houses. Never sandpaper, never, ever. Scotch-brite might do in a pinch, but the brass brush is better. For maintenance after I have it resurfaced, I use S-721H from American Recorder. IPA is also fine, if you question it, just look at a chemical comparability chart, it's recommended. Naphtha swells the rubber and makes it appear to work for a time but is short-lived. Rubber Renew works, but again, it's a temporary solution and once things get to that point, a better solution is needed or you'll be Rubber Renewing yourself into the poor house.

Thanks Steve, that's good information. I looked inside for the broken post but no luck, That's okay, I have a plan to make it better than new, stay tuned.

@@asbcustom Thanks. You know I will.

Right, and I never place "Fragile" or "Handle With Care" labels either because they act like a dare to US shippers.

@@asbcustom 😆Its true.

I know, eBay can be a nightmare sometimes. I don't think it's low level intelligence as much as it's high level indifference.

Yasu, Peter! 🤝 Unfortunately, here in Russia, this is also not uncommon!@@asbcustom

I bought a receiver and tuner a few years ago. The tuner was sitting on top of the receiver with nothing in between them. The packing material was crumpled up newspaper. The housing on the receiver was bent and scratched badly. I submitted a return request. The seller offered to refund 80 of my purchase to keep it, so I did. I got most of the dents out of the cover and painted it. It just recently gave up the ghost. Common sense isn't so common anymore.

@@MrSteney Exactly, common sense isn't.

Edit: It was an integrated amplifier, not a receiver. Hence the separate tuner.

It doesn't matter but I think I did capture both holes before soldering.

@@asbcustom I attempted to go in and lube the motor up to see if that would fix the flutter issue and now the motor wont spin after a couple turns when I hit play and just stops. Not sure what I did I was very neat and didn’t do much in there. Have you ever experienced this after working on a motor? Thanks for the feedback

@@Pb_salt No, I haven't. The brushes may have damaged.

@@asbcustomI don’t understand how when you pulled the motor apart, the little plastic washer that sits on top of the commutator didn’t get pulled off the shaft and stuck behind the brushed like mine, it didn’t seem like you moved the brushes or anything. Magic.

@@Pb_salt That washer is also a spacer for the commutator segments, the brushes need to be spread out prior to removal. I have another video here, I think the camera angles are a bit better: ua-cam.com/video/75qcUIB2Wr8/v-deo.html

Absolutely.

Thank you for watching. On the 122mk2, the motor PCB requires recapping, and the transport a full overhaul. I have several videos detailing the entire process, it's different from the 112mk2 in this video.

@@asbcustom Thanks very much 👍

You're very welcome.