My biggest concern with doing this type of protection is the potential of trapping moisture behind the layer and creating a corrosion zone. I've seen this done in salty winter road parts of the world and it doesn't always work out as intended. I just do a Roothy and Lanlolin coat for rust prevention. That being said if you're doing gravel and dirt roads for the most part then you definitely protecting against road rash.
@@nathanrykers7588 100% lanox lanolin spray is the go coat it every 6-12months with lanolin get it in 4L packs much cheaper and works a treat been doing this to my 80 series for over 30 years
Looks awesome. Good to see the maintenance being done (as an automotive technician, this makes me happy!)! The raptor coating looks great! Wouldn't work very well were I live (rust belt of Canada- means basically driving in Salt water for 6 months), as any type of permanent coating (rubberized undercoating, or bed liner type material is a terrible idea because these types of coating trap moisture under the coating and causes the metal to rust even faster but you can't see it because of the coating! We use none permanent coatings, either oil or wax based with corrosion inhibitors. Awesome content Tyler! Love the plate on the truck!
Don't forget the king pin bearings in the front swivel hub housings, do them the same time you do the wheel bearings, you will have it all apart anyway, you dont want one of those failing when your out bush, specially now that your putting bigger wheels and tires on so putting more load through them.
Hahaha mate I nearly died when I saw the title raptor. I was like Nooooo he's gonna ruin the car. And then you said you were going to raptor coat underneath I said out loud "thanks goodness!" 😅🤌
Good work Tyler!! Spending a little bit of money now on maintenance gives you peace of mind and saves spending big $ later (and being stuck by the side of the track!). A must when purchasing a used vehicle.
I looked at all sorts of "rust proofing" products about 6 months ago for my gu project, It always came back to standard rust converter/primer and 2 pack paint.. (on the chassis anyway) Because anything thicker, cracks and holds water underneath and rots from the inside out. Wurth do a rubberised spray product that was a massive problem for this. 2 pack is easy to grind and spray over if chips and cracks but. I never considered raptor coat, would like an update!
That's what I've seen also, you need to kill the rust, convert it and then seal the steel with something like POR-15, because anything else will look good but it will continue to rust underneath the Raptor, then you will see large chunks of paint crack off revealing rust pockets.
@@jonathanmcdonald1101 I'm from Austria and we salt all winter and whenever it's cold outside. We only use cable grease to seal of the salt from cars. Cable grease is very cheap and is probaly the best rust inhibitor you can put on. Not a single spot of rust after numerous years of driving in a very salty environment.
@@Snook_ I did that for the tailshafts and such, it's easy to touch up, on a service or part replacement I usually give a wire wheel and quick paint. I do find 2 pack, washes better... Once pressure washed the residual dirt doesn't stick to the metal. So leaves a more nicer finish once cleaned. Por15 is great for very heavily corroded steel, or things left out side .. 6x4 trailers etc cheap and easy to apply.
Jonathan McDonald POR-15 is the best, I basically painted it on with a paint brush on my Gemini floor pans and it looked bloody show condition... rate it highly
Rust never sleeps that's why I am blasting my chassis then industrial primer and two pack top coat clean factory look because the raptor may have sealed rust in and eventually rust from within not say you did it wrong that's wot I am going to do Well-done for doing it yourself
If you have a gurney at home (other brands do them as well) 15m plumbers drain cleaning hose $40, feeds into your chassis holes and cleans sand out like you wouldn’t believe!!!
I would also replace the radiator hoses and keep the oldies as spares like with the belts. Also a mention, I didn't notice and enviro wash traps when you did the under body degreaser. Please tell me they were there but out of shot..................😮🤞🙂
Good work 👍 I’d swap out the fuel filter and change the power steering fluid (it usually gets overlooked and works hard) Also a fine metal strain inside the pump if you get a bit of noise that can do with a clean. You’ll probably flush the brake fluid when you swap out the brakes is the only other thing.
I used to sell Patrols Brand New .... the Panels on a Patrol are made of Durasteel ... from the factory . This is twice the protection of normal Rust treated steel .... Have you ever seen a rusty GU Patrol ? Unless they live in salt water .... Just a small bit of trivia I thought you might be interested in .
Not worried about the raptor chipping off? They recommend heavy sanding to give the raptor a surface to adhere to before painting, I'd be worried the stones will just chip the whole lot off
Drill holes in the bottom of yourplastic guards behind the mud flap. Patrols are good at collecting water down there and rusting. ALso check your door bottoms dont have the drain holes blocked, very common to be blocked and cause the doors to hold moisture/rust.
Not too sure about spraying raptor straight on. No prep other than a wash? I found easiest long term is just the black rust converter/paint aerosol cans. At every service have a look underneath anyway and touch up where it has rubbed off.
Nice overview on the fluids refresh., always a good idea when getting a used vehicle. Gives you confidence that everything is proper. Perhaps replace the PCV valve if petrol.
Fully blasted? & bust’n a cap? Thought i was listening to Wes Watson for a second lol… I got me GU coily ute raptor coated but i never thought about spray’n underneath it? & i gotta hydraulic tipper to get into lotsa spots. I havta look into it now.
I hope matic j compliant trans fluid was used in the trans. Cant use normal atf your gearbox wont last long. Get onto patrolapart and order some genuine o2 sensors always good to keeo a couple spare if it starts drinking the fuel. Make sure the elec lines to them dont have enough slack to hit and melt on your exhaust.
Great job ! Just wanted to share MY experience with Bendix ultimate brake pads on my 4wd, hope you are not getting these pads ? 1. They squeel when going slow 2. They wear very quickly, 60% worn after only 10,000 kms 3. Brake dust, wheels are covered in brake dust very quickly 4. Work great around town, only light pedal pressure required, good feel BUT on a reasonably long down hill they fade, I mean loss of brakes fade, apparently they have a low heat threshold 5. I emailed Bendix 3 times with no response 6. I wanted to ask Bendix if these are the best pads for my vehicle, ultimate pads are supposed to be the "ultimate", but maybe their 4wd pad might be better / more suited to the weight of a 4wd...
Same experience with bendix. Never again. Best pads are ebc yellow stuff but expensive. Next best is genuine pads for the 4.8 soft compound. Patrol apart or nissbits will supply the right ones.
@@TylerThompson90 I highly recommend browsing the patrol4x4 forum. There is so much info there is you use the search function and if you can't find anything there are loads of knowledgeable people willing to give advice.
Maaaate.... I understand why you Raptered the undercarriage of the Patrol BUT now every nut, bolt and screw is going to be a bugger to undo. Yes it looks great but you can never get that stuff off, ever. Do you remember me telling you about Lanotec? Please check out Roothy's UA-cam video on it. Anyway great job mate, now for the fun stuff... Suspension, brakes (make sure you put braided lines on) and wheels and tyres. Love you work.
Hey mate, love the new build 👍 How do you find the wind deflector on the roof rack ? My rhino rack platform is horribly noisy and thinking of getting one, if you think it makes a difference. 🍻
Excellent idea Tyler, I'm in the process of purchasing my D Max... One of mods is to rust proof as this is going to be a long term vehicle for me. Great to watch this build coming along, look forward to the new suspension and tyres..👍👍🚙
Nice work well done love to see the preventative maintenance good work. Great to see did you check the clutch fan viscous hub? To make sure fan is working properly?
Raptor is probably the worst you can do to your chassi! I only use cable grease as it's known to be one of the best rust inhibitors you can put on. I've done 3-4 cars in my past and had outstanding results. Not a spot of rust in numerous years of driving in a very salty invironment.
@@angushalliday9228 Raptor itselfe is a great product, but by putting it on to your chassi you will risk rotting your frame out from inside out. Especially if you had any kind of rust before spraying it on! Raptors hard scratch resistant structure will trap any kind of moisture and therefore defelope rust underneath. Any kind of grease or oil will do a much better job as it can flow and therefore will seal itselfe back up after getting scratched or damaged. Im from Europe/Austria and our roads get salted nearly all year long...so we know how to prevent rust damage to our cars. Cable grease is the way to go! Cheers
did you changed the fuel filters, if you haven't already buy two and keep a new spare in the back and buy yourself some m.a.f. sensor cleaner and use it every service to clean the maf sensor.
@@TylerThompson90 CRC make a spray Can called mass airflow sensor cleaner, the stuff works great just following the instructions, a tip for the the sensor is be careful with the screws and be a bit gentle with the "O" ring when removing and installing the sensor.
Not sure why so many people use raptor? And why would you coat the tsil shafts? They are balanced, this will throw the balance out, maybe not significantly, but still. As for under body, Im in the automotive repair industry, personally Id be using a water based stone gaurd/body deadner, which is rubberised. I know you are not a car guy and trying to learn and good on you. For your own experience, just as you took the car to a mechanic for advice and service, dont be shy about contacting a body shop for advice. Yrs you will get different information, and the underbody now has protrction, just there are so many better priducts for underbody. Car is coming along nicely
That was really good to watch man! Enjoyed every second! Mine's a ZD30 hey :) Can't wait to do my diffs, transfer case, auto gearbox and engine oil. Did the coolant already as swapped the radiator some weeks ago. One question: is the gearbox oil change an easy straight forward DIY job or does it need any flush at all in a workshop or something? Cheers mate.
The automatic transmission has to be done carefully the mechanic said, you have to make sure you put the exact amount you put in etc, the rest of the fluids were pretty straight forward
@@TylerThompson90 Thanks for your time mate, appreciate your reply! Very helpful! I just don't want to damage the transmission so will take it to a good mechanic.
Seriously hope that wasn’t tap water going into your cooling system. To my knowledge you should only be using distilled water to dilute the antifreeze appropriately, as the minerals from the tap water will start precipitating out over time thus coating your system and degrading cooling performance.
I definitely would not use Raptor . I had a steel tray on a 79 series and after 3 Years the product has shrunk and cracked. Now the water has entered the cracks and now the tray is rusting. Upol does not want to know about it and even refused to inspect it. I went Raptor because i was told it was the best product for the application. How wrong they were. Now I have to remove the tray and get it sandblasted and powercoated.
I was wondering about that but I think its ok if you combine it with a coolant concentrate that has corrosion inhibitors in it? I run distilled water and water wetter in mine.
Your 4x4 might be clean but all that muck went down the drain, then into our rivers and seas, not impressed at all. We supposed to be looking after our environment 🤬🤬
My biggest concern with doing this type of protection is the potential of trapping moisture behind the layer and creating a corrosion zone. I've seen this done in salty winter road parts of the world and it doesn't always work out as intended. I just do a Roothy and Lanlolin coat for rust prevention. That being said if you're doing gravel and dirt roads for the most part then you definitely protecting against road rash.
I agree, I can’t understand why you would use raptor as opposed to something like lanolin
Raptor is just thick paint
100% might just be trapping moisture in there
Yes I agree . Lanolin is probably the go , I’d use rust inhibitor or zinc oxide if I had to paint underneath.
Or fish oil.
@@nathanrykers7588 100% lanox lanolin spray is the go coat it every 6-12months with lanolin get it in 4L packs much cheaper and works a treat been doing this to my 80 series for over 30 years
excited for suspension upgrades :)
me too!
Clean the MAF Sensor.......makes a difference to running and fuel economy. Probably reset the ECU at the same time..
Looks awesome. Good to see the maintenance being done (as an automotive technician, this makes me happy!)! The raptor coating looks great! Wouldn't work very well were I live (rust belt of Canada- means basically driving in Salt water for 6 months), as any type of permanent coating (rubberized undercoating, or bed liner type material is a terrible idea because these types of coating trap moisture under the coating and causes the metal to rust even faster but you can't see it because of the coating! We use none permanent coatings, either oil or wax based with corrosion inhibitors.
Awesome content Tyler! Love the plate on the truck!
Thanks mate!
Don't forget the king pin bearings in the front swivel hub housings, do them the same time you do the wheel bearings, you will have it all apart anyway, you dont want one of those failing when your out bush, specially now that your putting bigger wheels and tires on so putting more load through them.
Good to see somebody give something a crack they haven't done before 👍🏴
always learning new tricks!
Oh yeah , boy ! It's another Tyler video. Sweet
Good preventative maintenance is always cheaper than replacement. Good job mate!
cheers!
Brake fluid. Also for coolant they should use demineralised water not tap water. For transmission, did you replace oil filter too?
Looking good bro, now you got me pumped to do the same
And that's a good thing
Love watching you have a go at new things! Feels so genuine! Hopefully you can get your own massive shed space at home for this kind of work 🤞🏿🤞🏿
Thanks mate, always learning new things as I go! I hope so too!
Hahaha mate I nearly died when I saw the title raptor. I was like Nooooo he's gonna ruin the car. And then you said you were going to raptor coat underneath I said out loud "thanks goodness!" 😅🤌
Great job doing the servicing,now you know were your at for services.Thanks...😎
Great idea mate....
Then go to the Simpson Dessert and it's associated rocky roads and see how it holds up...
Good work Tyler!! Spending a little bit of money now on maintenance gives you peace of mind and saves spending big $ later (and being stuck by the side of the track!). A must when purchasing a used vehicle.
Yep!
I looked at all sorts of "rust proofing" products about 6 months ago for my gu project, It always came back to standard rust converter/primer and 2 pack paint.. (on the chassis anyway) Because anything thicker, cracks and holds water underneath and rots from the inside out.
Wurth do a rubberised spray product that was a massive problem for this.
2 pack is easy to grind and spray over if chips and cracks but.
I never considered raptor coat, would like an update!
That's what I've seen also, you need to kill the rust, convert it and then seal the steel with something like POR-15, because anything else will look good but it will continue to rust underneath the Raptor, then you will see large chunks of paint crack off revealing rust pockets.
@@jonathanmcdonald1101 I'm from Austria and we salt all winter and whenever it's cold outside. We only use cable grease to seal of the salt from cars. Cable grease is very cheap and is probaly the best rust inhibitor you can put on. Not a single spot of rust after numerous years of driving in a very salty environment.
Just use killrust matt black in a can. Does the job and is cheap?
@@Snook_ I did that for the tailshafts and such, it's easy to touch up, on a service or part replacement I usually give a wire wheel and quick paint.
I do find 2 pack, washes better... Once pressure washed the residual dirt doesn't stick to the metal. So leaves a more nicer finish once cleaned.
Por15 is great for very heavily corroded steel, or things left out side .. 6x4 trailers etc cheap and easy to apply.
Jonathan McDonald POR-15 is the best, I basically painted it on with a paint brush on my Gemini floor pans and it looked bloody show condition... rate it highly
I did it today with lanotec👍 steel seal👍
In my paint gun and air compressor
Amazing good and easy
Thanks so much for sharing the RAPTOR love! Awesome work, mate!
well done mate. ur the expert with the raptor so we can all bring our 4bys to u now for raptor care🤣😂.
Very timely. Will be doing the same over Christmas, then I will install new skid/ bash plates.
Sorry to hear about your car troubles Tyler!
Yep great to watch. Good to see your having a go at stuff. It’s fun if we don’t stuff it up ,me included 😊
Rust never sleeps that's why I am blasting my chassis then industrial primer and two pack top coat clean factory look because the raptor may have sealed rust in and eventually rust from within not say you did it wrong that's wot I am going to do Well-done for doing it yourself
thanks mate!
That looks so sick! I was thinking about doing this to my Patrol.
If you have a gurney at home (other brands do them as well) 15m plumbers drain cleaning hose $40, feeds into your chassis holes and cleans sand out like you wouldn’t believe!!!
How exciting haha nothing like a new build hey mate
Definitely having fun!
I would also replace the radiator hoses and keep the oldies as spares like with the belts. Also a mention, I didn't notice and enviro wash traps when you did the under body degreaser. Please tell me they were there but out of shot..................😮🤞🙂
Diff wasnt overfilled. The suspension was at full droop so the diff was rolled forward and the bung was lower.
Good point
Good work 👍 I’d swap out the fuel filter and change the power steering fluid (it usually gets overlooked and works hard) Also a fine metal strain inside the pump if you get a bit of noise that can do with a clean. You’ll probably flush the brake fluid when you swap out the brakes is the only other thing.
I used to sell Patrols Brand New .... the Panels on a Patrol are made of Durasteel ... from the factory . This is twice the protection of normal Rust treated steel .... Have you ever seen a rusty GU Patrol ? Unless they live in salt water .... Just a small bit of trivia I thought you might be interested in .
Cheers for the info! that's good to know!
Not worried about the raptor chipping off? They recommend heavy sanding to give the raptor a surface to adhere to before painting, I'd be worried the stones will just chip the whole lot off
Nope I didn't. I asked around and a lot of people told me not to, so I went with that haha
Top stuff mate 👍🏼👍🏼
Drill holes in the bottom of yourplastic guards behind the mud flap. Patrols are good at collecting water down there and rusting. ALso check your door bottoms dont have the drain holes blocked, very common to be blocked and cause the doors to hold moisture/rust.
Not too sure about spraying raptor straight on. No prep other than a wash?
I found easiest long term is just the black rust converter/paint aerosol cans. At every service have a look underneath anyway and touch up where it has rubbed off.
What Sliders did you go with mate please and do you recommend them? Cheers
nitrile gloves work a treat !
Nice overview on the fluids refresh., always a good idea when getting a used vehicle. Gives you confidence that everything is proper. Perhaps replace the PCV valve if petrol.
Great point!
Fully blasted? & bust’n a cap? Thought i was listening to Wes Watson for a second lol…
I got me GU coily ute raptor coated but i never thought about spray’n underneath it? & i gotta hydraulic tipper to get into lotsa spots. I havta look into it now.
Chech rear shock towers for cracks and body mounts there 20yrs old 👍👍👍✌️
Good stuff Tyler, I have herd great things about raptor. I’m going to have to give it a go I think
Good work 👍🏼
Great job buddy just need to change break fluid
I hope matic j compliant trans fluid was used in the trans. Cant use normal atf your gearbox wont last long.
Get onto patrolapart and order some genuine o2 sensors always good to keeo a couple spare if it starts drinking the fuel. Make sure the elec lines to them dont have enough slack to hit and melt on your exhaust.
You had a go Tyler and it turned out pretty good, good shit mate 👍✌
cheers mate!
What diff oil did you use in the rear? Going to do my gu one very shortly but been told mixed messages about what grade to use!
Great job !
Just wanted to share MY experience with Bendix ultimate brake pads on my 4wd, hope you are not getting these pads ?
1. They squeel when going slow 2. They wear very quickly, 60% worn after only 10,000 kms 3. Brake dust, wheels are covered in brake dust very quickly 4. Work great around town, only light pedal pressure required, good feel BUT on a reasonably long down hill they fade, I mean loss of brakes fade, apparently they have a low heat threshold 5. I emailed Bendix 3 times with no response 6. I wanted to ask Bendix if these are the best pads for my vehicle, ultimate pads are supposed to be the "ultimate", but maybe their 4wd pad might be better / more suited to the weight of a 4wd...
Same experience with bendix. Never again.
Best pads are ebc yellow stuff but expensive.
Next best is genuine pads for the 4.8 soft compound. Patrol apart or nissbits will supply the right ones.
Cheers for the info!
@@TylerThompson90
I highly recommend browsing the patrol4x4 forum. There is so much info there is you use the search function and if you can't find anything there are loads of knowledgeable people willing to give advice.
Maaaate....
I understand why you Raptered the undercarriage of the Patrol BUT now every nut, bolt and screw is going to be a bugger to undo. Yes it looks great but you can never get that stuff off, ever.
Do you remember me telling you about Lanotec?
Please check out Roothy's UA-cam video on it.
Anyway great job mate, now for the fun stuff... Suspension, brakes (make sure you put braided lines on) and wheels and tyres.
Love you work.
Hey mate, love the new build 👍
How do you find the wind deflector on the roof rack ? My rhino rack platform is horribly noisy and thinking of getting one, if you think it makes a difference. 🍻
Probably worth changing the brake fluid and hydraulic steering fluid. They do go off over time.
You should go back up Cairns Cross Creek run
Excellent idea Tyler, I'm in the process of purchasing my D Max...
One of mods is to rust proof as this is going to be a long term vehicle for me. Great to watch this build coming along, look forward to the new suspension and tyres..👍👍🚙
cheers mate!
Fantastic stuff....
cheers!
Looks good mate , just curious how does the raptor adhere with no prep? No sanding up parts etc.
Looks great as an end finish. Was wondering the same with prep? Will the texture be harder to clean after salt, sand n mud?
Same question, i raptored my barwork recently and had to sand and prime everything before raptor coat.
Honestly. I know very little about this stuff, I asked around and majority said you dont need to prep just get it super clean. so I did haha
fishoil rust proofing and epoxy gloss black if u want it to look nice underneath.. then more fishoil..
oh and at least you had a real reason for not having your spare tyre on haha ..
can't wait for next week's suspension n exhaust upgrade video!
Really enjoyed that... More udoi yourself... Better for the wallet.... 😀
Hey Tyler just wondering what’s the fuel economy on the patrol, interested in getting one but fuel economy scaring me.
Stock tyres and as is in this video it's about 16L/100kms but will definitely go up once I put the tyres and some weight on it
Nice work well done love to see the preventative maintenance good work.
Great to see did you check the clutch fan viscous hub? To make sure fan is working properly?
Yes I have
Nice work mate , how did you cover all the diff bolts without getting paint on it, thinking about doing mine now
just with masking tape
Raptor is probably the worst you can do to your chassi! I only use cable grease as it's known to be one of the best rust inhibitors you can put on. I've done 3-4 cars in my past and had outstanding results. Not a spot of rust in numerous years of driving in a very salty invironment.
Why is it the worst
@@angushalliday9228 Raptor itselfe is a great product, but by putting it on to your chassi you will risk rotting your frame out from inside out. Especially if you had any kind of rust before spraying it on! Raptors hard scratch resistant structure will trap any kind of moisture and therefore defelope rust underneath. Any kind of grease or oil will do a much better job as it can flow and therefore will seal itselfe back up after getting scratched or damaged. Im from Europe/Austria and our roads get salted nearly all year long...so we know how to prevent rust damage to our cars. Cable grease is the way to go! Cheers
what do you want for the side steps if you are selling them.
Will you be putting in catch can and pre fuel filter?
not necessary for a petrol engine
How much better did it go after a big service
Seemed to run the same
Have you been able to get a full bendix upgrade kit? Bendix tell me they don’t have one for the 4.8
I've spoken to them recently and they're in the process of making one for the 4.8
@@TylerThompson90 they said the same to me, I’ll be grabbing one as soon as they release it.
did you changed the fuel filters, if you haven't already buy two and keep a new spare in the back and buy yourself some m.a.f. sensor cleaner and use it every service to clean the maf sensor.
We did the fuel filter but missed filming it. I'll definitely keep a spare filter and good tip on the maf sensor!
@@TylerThompson90 CRC make a spray Can called mass airflow sensor cleaner, the stuff works great just following the instructions, a tip for the the sensor is be careful with the screws and be a bit gentle with the "O" ring when removing and installing the sensor.
Dont forget the rest of the fluids. Power steering & brake fluid especially. its hygroscopic.
Not sure why so many people use raptor? And why would you coat the tsil shafts? They are balanced, this will throw the balance out, maybe not significantly, but still. As for under body, Im in the automotive repair industry, personally Id be using a water based stone gaurd/body deadner, which is rubberised. I know you are not a car guy and trying to learn and good on you. For your own experience, just as you took the car to a mechanic for advice and service, dont be shy about contacting a body shop for advice. Yrs you will get different information, and the underbody now has protrction, just there are so many better priducts for underbody. Car is coming along nicely
Cheers for the tips mate, something I'm pretty new to so learning as I go!
I would have put a rust inhibitor on it before the Raptor 👍🏻
That was really good to watch man! Enjoyed every second! Mine's a ZD30 hey :) Can't wait to do my diffs, transfer case, auto gearbox and engine oil. Did the coolant already as swapped the radiator some weeks ago. One question: is the gearbox oil change an easy straight forward DIY job or does it need any flush at all in a workshop or something? Cheers mate.
The automatic transmission has to be done carefully the mechanic said, you have to make sure you put the exact amount you put in etc, the rest of the fluids were pretty straight forward
@@TylerThompson90 Thanks for your time mate, appreciate your reply! Very helpful! I just don't want to damage the transmission so will take it to a good mechanic.
literally doing the same soon
What about the main battery? How old is it?
Fairly old but have a replacement coming!
Seriously hope that wasn’t tap water going into your cooling system. To my knowledge you should only be using distilled water to dilute the antifreeze appropriately, as the minerals from the tap water will start precipitating out over time thus coating your system and degrading cooling performance.
When rust proofing I made the mistake of not taking off the covers in the wheel arches and proofing the inside of the panels ,
A $12 Sperm Suit and Dispossable Gloves, Breathing Mask and Clear Safety glasses go a long way to making life easy :-)
I definitely would not use Raptor . I had a steel tray on a 79 series and after 3 Years the product has shrunk and cracked. Now the water has entered the cracks and now the tray is rusting. Upol does not want to know about it and even refused to inspect it. I went Raptor because i was told it was the best product for the application. How wrong they were. Now I have to remove the tray and get it sandblasted and powercoated.
Buy a new alternator and keep the old one as a spare.
How much did the pooie cost originally ??
$28k
Yeah I’m looking at the GU s
They reakon from 97-2007 4.2 L td for the best of that model !!!!
Looking forward to see how yours turn out 👍
Fuel filter
👍👍
Tap Water in your Radiator?
I was wondering about that but I think its ok if you combine it with a coolant concentrate that has corrosion inhibitors in it? I run distilled water and water wetter in mine.
I recon raptor is good underneath rather than the body .
good job, but not sure.
Good job but you look like grizzly Adams
Water pump
First
Lanotec Steel Seal is the bomb,been on beaches all my life and never had a rust problem
Abit pointless when the chassis usually rusts from the inside out
Your 4x4 might be clean but all that muck went down the drain, then into our rivers and seas, not impressed at all. We supposed to be looking after our environment 🤬🤬