How To: Grout Cultured Stone (Lots Of Tips From A Professional Stone Mason) Bags, Mortar, Troweling.
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2021
- Had a lot of people ask about how they can donate to the channel. This is my Patreon if you want to donate to the channel. Thanks for watching!
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Roger goes through the process of properly grouting between cultured stone so you can Do-It-Yourself!
We get into the everything from weather conditions, to how to mix your mortar, to what tools work the best for the job, all so you can have the confidence to take on this project yourself.
Links to the tools that we used are listed below.
Please feel free to comment below. Open up a discussion on how you have done it yourself, or ask a question. We will be happy to answer.
As always thank you for watching!!!
Milwaukee Magnum Drill
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Sheetrock Mortar Mixer
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Marshalltown Tuck Pointing Trowel
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Marshalltown Tuck Pointing Trowel Set
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Marshalltown Grout Bags
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Whisk Brush (tent whisk)
amzn.to/3dLhCfW - Навчання та стиль
Genuine LOL at 6:12. That happened to me when I first tried this and I gave up on the endeavor. Now, 6 (!) years later, I'm ready to tackle it with confidence due to your excellent video. Thanks, Roger!
Great video!!! Thanks!!
Fabulous video! Very helpful. -Clint
Thanks Clint!
As the new owner of a very old stone foundation I've started to repair, I've watched a helluva lot of masonry videos. This is by far the most helpful one I've seen. The info you provide is important and usable, esp that tip about adding straight type S to type S mix. Can't overstate how valuable I think that is - really should make the difference between disappointing and great results with grout bags.
Tanks Ken, yep i wish i knew this trick a few years earlier. so now i'm telling the world. if you have any other foundation repair questions i'd love to help. -Roger
Awesome man! I am new to this industry, & been studying as much as I can. Cheers!
thanks for watching.. let me know if i can help
Great video!! I have to repoint some stone on my 160 odd year old foundation and just picked up a poop bag to make life easier.
Another central NYer about to hit the subscribe button
THANKS!
Great vid, couple more tips to mention...get the grout bag wet on the inside before you start and rinse it out clean before reloading it. Once you squirt all the joints and the mortar start to dry out. Push all of your job with your joints in real good. Wearing gloves your fingers work great. We have tuck points that are cut down to about an inch long that we use to finish the joints. This custom tool helps get around the contours for rounder cornered stone. Never really used a full length tuck point before for stone.
Great points Pete, i should have mentioned wetting the bag. depending on the joint style we use wooden tools for a similar finish, and lots of glove joints especially on sea walls.
Thank you for explaining that you really need to mix the mortar with a drill to get it smooth enough to flow through the bag. I tried many times without success mixing small batches of mortar by hand, but it always clogged in the bag unless I made the mortar way too wet and soupy. Once I tried mixing with a drill it flowed perfectly. Thanks again!
i'm glad this helped Charles! yep i did the same thing. hand mixing and wondering why it did not work. with youtube existed back then
Thank you so much! I've done a ton of tile work but this is my first run at installing exterior stone. I ran into issues with the "poop" bag and am so thankful that you took the time to post this. My only concern now is that I wanted to add dye to the mortar and it's going to be difficult to figure out the ratio. Good idea to at least mix enough to do a section before going to the next wall. Any more detailed tips on adding the dye, that you've discovered along the way, would be greatly appreciated.
thank you for watching Denise! the dye is a really tricky thing. if it is a dry powder you can mix up a lot ahead of time and then wet the portions you need, using equal water ratios each time, certainly tryy to keep the same ratios on the same wall and then adjust around a corrner. sometimes you can buy a pre colored mix that is easier.
if its a liquid dye then you got t0 get even more precise and scientific. measuring out everything and keeping as consistent as possible. each day's weather conditions can change the color a lot even with everything else under control. I have honestly tried to steer away from dyed mortar on bigger jobs. it is a huge liability. and it looks great if it all works out but it looks not so good if you end up with 5 different shades. on a smaller project. like under 100 square feet it is pretty doable. i hope this helps
Work work all I'm doing too for the most part👍👍
yep tis the season to make hay while the sun shines. that noodle fishing sure looked like fun!!!
@@TheHowToHeadquarters it is especially when you have 3 or 4 cats on all at once
I use a large caulking gun and empty plastic glue cartilage l converted , should have it pattened
I was having a really hard time with the grout bag for my cultured stone. Huge help. A little type S and a couple drops of Dawn dish liquid and I'm done. The mortar flowed like whipped cream from a can. Great video.
Glad it helped! THanks for watching Nils. yep this frusterated me for a long time. i forgot about the dawn trick. a lot of drywallers do that too. good luck on your project!
Great tip! I'm about to try this out!
Great video, and information about how to mix the right mortar and temperatures, something you really don’t think about
Glad it was helpful!
Hello from Houston, Texas. I sure am glad I found your YT posting. Have the constipation problem (luv your description). Looked at a zillion YT bag videos and only two referenced the problem with nothing how to solve it. Called Quikrete help and they were no help. Had tried using type N mortar (1102). Now I know what to use and how much. I have about 140 linear feet of ground out brick mortar seams to fill and I did not want to use a trowel to transfer from a tray into the seam. Thanks..!!
Thank you so much! yep i could not find the answer for years and i had to hand pack joints for 1000s of feet before we figured out the laxative. I hope it all goes well!
I'm sold on bonding adhesive l mix my mortar half water and half adhesive, you can't chisel this stuff off , so much stronger than just water
Thank you very much great video. My question is I like to have a little bit of sparkle from silica sand in my grout on my exterior stone walls and house. We built the house 19 years ago and we have a bunch of minor grout replacement to do and I want to get that same light grey look that shows the sparkle (not a lot) but enough so it doesn’t look just like smooth flat grey grout. Any suggestions? I don’t remember the recipe I used I used to think that it was 1/3 Portland cement, 1/3 mortar, 1/3 sand…. But after watching your video I think I probably did it incorrectly. Anyhow, your videos terrific you explain things really well. Thank you very much for taking the time to show us this video. From San Diego.
wow great to hear from San Diego. it was probably crystalized silica that gave you the sparkle. you might be able to get some to mix into your grout . it is a identified carcinogen now so its a little harder to get. or you might be able to pick up a tile grout with that sparkle element and then mix that in. its a DIFICULT game to match existing grout that has been weathered sometimes you got to just get it close and let it blend over a few years. if your mortar joints were small (less than a half an inch) that 1/3 port 1/3 sand 1/3 mortar could have been appropriate. is it showing deterioration after the 19 years in the average spot? or is it just failing where excessive weather or movement has taken place?
Informative, but funny 😄 hard to marry those. Good job.
Glad you enjoyed it. thank you. I've got a bunch of uneded vids i got to get out. thanks for the encouragement. have you done much in the masonry world?
@@TheHowToHeadquarters just a DYIer but have watched all the Haduck vids so I guess semi pro now lol. Going to tackle building a faced stone wall up against the side of my concrete stair walkup. only goes as high as 2.5 feet, only like 10 sq face feet. Will end up getting mostly large rectangles of types of flagstone. My question is do I need more than just type n mortar to secure to each other andcesp. To the parged flat side of cement stairs ? Considered like brick wall ties but read they rust off, not needed etc. In Chicago so cold winters. My first go at facing stone. Any advice ill take it. Will be eying your other vids prior too. Trying to learn.
yup Mike Haddock is great!! i would add some extra straight Portland to the type N mortar and sand maybe 1 part type n 1 Portland 3 sand. and i would add an acrylic fortifier to the water. Kaufmanns is and excellent brand but the quickcreet acrylic fortifiers are good too. they just seem to accelerate the cure. which can de a pain in the hot summer.
But the most important thing is to keep the water from getting behind it. a good cap on top is a much more determining factor as far as longevity over mortar type. if water can work its way in behind the wall, it will deteriorate especially in freeze thaw climates like ours.
@@TheHowToHeadquarters thanks much for the response! You are exactly right with the last part because that's exactly what happened. Builder pur this up 20 years ago with house and im told by 2 stone guys no one does it with sand and stone mortared to side of concrete anymore cause water gets behind and busts it up over time. Zactly what occurred by year 10-15.
Wanted some guys to tear it out and parge the wall but they found big void under steps and got cold feet so just redid all the joints and used good stone they had to redo. Now I'm finishing portion they ran outta stone. I know even with caps, learned term coping stones applies too, won't keep our rain and gutter water that flows over it. Oh well I only need to make it 7- 10 years then sellin. Good luck growing channel. If you were local hire u in a NY minute!
@@stevevenn1 thanks Bob! yep those coping pcs will make all the difference! and it will definitely get you 7 years. especially if you spray it every year or 2 with a waterproof sealer like aqua pel
Thanks for your great videos Roger! They are extremely helpful. What is the ideal temperature for installing exterior thin veneer stone. Then what is the low end temperature?
Thanks for watching Tim, I don't like to apply mortar when the next 3 days are likely to dip below 32 degrees. If the water in the mortar freezes, that arrests the curing process and that is as strong as the mortar will ever get. the thin mortar applications we show here are particularly susptable to freezing. thicker creet pours create their own heat and can protect themselves a little better in their own thermal mass. there are tricks. blankets over the new work, or admixtures like anti hydro which accelerate the curing process, even tenting and heating, but really it gets inefficient and risky as soon as the thermometer gets near 32. 50 to 70 degrees is the ideal temp for a nice slow cure
Thanks and great videos!!
Poopin in the joints hahaha that is so funny I can't stop laughing at it. Thanks for the vid. I have to poop in the joints on a small section of my house what are the temperature requirements. I believe I read it has to be 40 degrees or more. Im also in upstate NY too Remsen which is just above utica. Its supposed to be 30ish degrees at night, can i just cover it up at night or should wait for it to get warmer.
its warm eanought now. yes you can cover it if it gets cold at night, but its better to just wait to do it when the nights are abve 32
Hey Roger, do you make the grout bag tip bigger when you’re doing stone?
you can cut it with a utility knife or sizors. i immediately take the metal cone out if it has one in it
If I install manufactured stone veneer over existing floor to ceiling brick veneer wall, do you think the wall ties holding the brick veneer to the structure will be strong enough to take the added weight of the stone veneer from lateral force? Should I fortify the brick wall with retrofit ties like putting some lags through the brick or don’t worry about it? Brick is interior and in good shape only 35 years old
well I'm not an engineer and i cant see your exact application, so i have to be careful to take a stab at this...But typically the wall ties (or any lateral force) are not a major structural concern. It is the weight going directly down on the floor or the brick shelf that when it sags or gives causes the wall ties to give way. but the problem or the solution lies with the vertical force. if you plan on covering a 4x8 brick wall with stone veneer, you are looking at 32 sq ft at roughly 10lbs per sq ft so 320 pounds. if 2 adults stand near the wall, does the floor sag, bounce, deflect? if there is a concern, an additional floor joist or a micro-lamb might pick up additional weight. or an angle iron lagged to the masonry structure below the floor level. i hope this helps. i don't think i can give you my electronic mail address here but if you have more questions and you want to talk more directly you can find my address thru rogers rigs. which is my website for my other you tube channel
@@TheHowToHeadquarters really appreciate you taking time to answer my questions
its my pleasure! I hope it turns out well!
So I'm still confused about the two Type S components, and your response to Frank didn't really clear thigs up. I understand one is a "mix" that contains portland cement, lime and sand. I've already tried this and had the constipated result. Then I found this video (which is great) and you provide the recipe. But when I search for "Type S Mortar" all I'm finding are mixes. What exactly does the other Type S Mortar contain; and can you provide a manufacturer recommendation? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
Hey Bill, I'm sorry this is a bit confusing. especially since the names of these products have been blended together. one way to differentiate is by weight. the premixed mortar (which gets constipated without the other stuff) is usually sold in an 80 lb bag. the magic ingredient is pure type s mortar. that is usually in a 72 lb bag. they have it at the box stores usually, but nobody there knows the difference.
pure type s mortar is finer than bread flower. no sand, just Lime, Portland, and some carcinogens. If all else fails try a masonry supply store. the guys at the counter there usualy know the products and have a higher turnover rate. if straight type s sits around too long it can get clumpy and cause more problems. i hope this helps
Have you used white mortar? What would be the proper mixture for white mortar?
the best way is to get white premixed mortar for glass blocks. if you can source that. its hard to make it yourself consistently. maybe a tile grout. or very light sand and type n light mortar.
I’m trying to get a whiter mortar for my stone veneer grout because my stone is fairly light in color. I’m thinking of mixing some white thinset with my gray quickrete type s mason mix mortar. Is that a bad idea? Interior Fireplace resurfacing over brick
well i have done exactly that before to try for whiter joints, and it kinda worked....but the thinset made the mortar hard to work with. it was not a disaster, but not exactly how i has hoped. it was sticky and had a rubbery consistency and any smear on the stones did not clean up well at all. the BEST option i have found is white mortar used for glass blocks. sometimes this is at lowes listed as glass block mortar. it is basically exactly like type s mason mix but pure white. if you want to gray it up a little then add a scoop of regullar premixed mortar.
@@TheHowToHeadquarters thanks! Will try that. I also just spoke to a local brick and stone place and they have a type N white mortar so will try that too
i hope it worked
Is it ok if I just use all TYPE S mortar?
yes! for mortar joints there is not a big difference in proformance. thanks for watchin!
I’m confused. You mixed type S with type S?
thanks for watching frank! its a little confusing. its type s premixed mortar in an 80 lb bag that is extra enriched wits straight type s mortar in a 72 lb bag. the straight mortar is the bonding cement the premix is straight mortar that has be already mixed with sand.
I wonder if he means type s cement
…you didn’t grout any stone..
sorry i got so into explainin i did not show the actual process. but the info is there