Gluing and Flattening Panels | The Chopping Board #4
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- In this video, we glue it all together and explain the finer details behind finishing the board. It's not a case of sticking it together and buzzing over it with a sander!
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Really enjoyable series. Keen woodworker, been away from it for a few years. you’ve brought back the joy of handtools to me keep,up the good work.
When chamfering, always do the end grain first. That way if you get tear out, you will clean it up when you chamfer the long grain sides.
Since he using a low angle jack plane there’s less of a chance for tear out
The best tutorials! I'm so happy I've found your channel!
Great series! I am quite new and don't have a jointer or thickness planer so having to prep it all by hand. I was getting pretty discouraged with the process but I learned a lot from these to hopefully make my next project go a little smoother.
Matt, this was an awesome series for a beginner like me. Learned a lot, as from the other videos of yours. Thanks a ton! On a side, on my recent video I did my first woodworking project with things I learned from you, using chisel, hand saw and a speed square - a workshop table that will be used on the outside, on a construction of our house :) Cheers!
Dude, thank you for leaving in the dusting of your face, I laughed my ass off. I have done that so many times, so I definitely feel your pain. I actually like the heavy chamfer on the cutting board, I think the whole thing came out really nice.
Osmo do a Top Oil for worktops etc, food safe and resists staining by foodstuffs. I have used it on kitchen worktops and chopping boards (usually made from offcuts of the tops for the clients as a thank you) easy to use and reliable.
For a silky smooth finish after several coats and sanding back with fine paper use a fine plastic scouring pad type abrasive on a random orbit sander.
You can also add earth pigment powders to Cascamite to colour the glue to match timbers like American Black Walnut when doing bent laminations with minimal to nil spring back.
Rob.
Nice to see you work around small defects. Let's us mere mortals know where not alone and secondly how to fix them. Cheers
Perfect tutorial! Thank you!
Neat!
Lovely project, great explanations and overall quality content. Keep up the good work!
It is a beautiful tree combination. I got a reference with a well understood video. Thank you very much.
Great series Matt, top tips as always. Spray lightly with water before final sand and applying finish. Raises any loose fibres, chopping boards always end up in the sink at some point. Shame to ruin all that hard work.
Nice work Matt!
Thanks for leaving in the mistakes. Glad to know it’s not just me.
If you do the chamfers on the corners first you'll have more surface to help do them straight and then the end grain, and lastly the sides.that way if there is any tear out on the end grain corners it'll generally get taken out with the other passes. That works best for me anyway :)
Once again, great video
Edit: Do the tear-out-prone edges first. Then you can hide the tear out by profiling the other edge.
You can change the angle of attack on a bevel-down plane, too, by modifying the back bevel. FWIW, when running garapa, our moulder knives are set at 88-degrees (from a hand-plane's perspective) with the bevel ground at about 88-degrees (from a bevel-down hand-plane's perspective). With hardwoods the blades scrape rather than cut or dig, at least in the eyes of German engineering.
Thanks mate good video
If you shamfer the end grain 1st will that reduce the chances of breakout ?
I was hoping to see some scrapper or something like Stanley No 80 at the end, not sanding. Still, nicely done.
Like all your videos
What do you mean “was to be washed under a tap”? Isn’t that like part of its daily use? Thanks for the nice video! :)
Ooh, I would have had my backside kicked had I been caught mixing glue over the work bench, for the reason you stated.
Getting back to basics, very helpfull. My dear old dad would have kicked my arse for dragging the plane backwards on the work, I see a lot of people doing that. What are your thoughts on that?
Tim Berry I think rob crosman covers that in a video, with quality planes they are heavy and it takes more work picking it up and positioning it again, the wood won’t hurt the steel blade dragging it backwards and sharpening the blades is easy enough. It all depends on personal preference
ua-cam.com/video/6nxKVpVmXGI/v-deo.html
Around 15:00 he explains it, you risk jarring the blade setting it back down and having to readjust it
Hey Matt, great videos. Thanks
Just curious, do you sharpen your hand saws yourself?
Hey Matt, great videos!
Do you sharpen your handsaws yourself or do you send them out?
Tung Oil👍🏻
Use a bevel down plane and set the cap iron correctly and you wouldn't have that tear out problem.
yeah, not the cap iron. the chip breaker.
Some people hate trees in their yard. Go figure? While other people feel horrible when they lose a tree that has been in their yard for decades, if not hundreds of years. If you're talented, you chop it into lumber, and make it into beautiful furniture. If the tree is a little to small for lumber, you can make bowls, or cutting. I love wooded bowls, but they are pretty useless. Cutting boards are kind of simple, but useful. Bowls, or cutting board, I love them both, and great use of wood, that might not be useful for anything else.
Hi Matt,
I was wondering how flexible Cascamite is. I'm making some bent laminations for a chair that need some flexibility to them and planned on using epoxy, but Cascamite might also be an option.
Definitely use epoxy for that. Cascamite is very brittle!
Thanks for the tip. Epoxy can be a bit brittle, but mainly in thick layer.
Is there a reason that dowels weren't used to connect all the pieces? Or are they just not needed for this application?
Zero Nine probably not totally necessary, but also I think he was trying to show us how to do all these tasks which tie into making a cutting board without machinery like a table saw, jointer, thickness planer, so probably drill press also? and he'd wanna make the dowels by hand also. but yeah he used a hand saw for.lemgth, hand plane to square up the boards.
Is this cascamite approved as safe for food contact by the FDA or equivalent?
The only glue I use for cutting boards is Titebond 3. It is waterproof, FDA approved for food contact, 15 minute open time and available worldwide.
Don't know to be honest, it'll probably be alright but obviously I can't formally recommend it!
It contains formaldehyde. It's not safe for food. Technical data sheet: www.hallmarkfraulo.co.uk/assets/pdf/Wood_Glue_Cascamite_TDS_HF.pdf
Oops lol. I'll pin your comment so people know not to use it. Cheers mate!
It's probably reasonably safe, once fully cured. Formaldehyde can be carcinogenic in large amounts, but small amounts of it are naturally present in foods, such as bananas.
Breathing the fumes while using the glue is probably more dangerous than using it as a cutting board. Most of the concern around formaldehyde is from the same type of resin slowly outgassing from new home insulation.
my searching has found no issues with using cascamite.
Sanding is my favorite part.
What? No Jesus pen? How could you trust that mark?
I really liked the look of the larger chamfers. Now I feel like eating a sandwich!
The arm veins bro... the arm veins.... minute 8:14.... O.O
Have a look at this: instagram.com/p/BeDgBFRnr9R/?taken-by=mattestleafurniture
Massive lol
End grain doesn't stand a chance. 💪🏼
Lot of people don’t use oak for cutting boards because of how porous the grain is
Is cascamite food safe?
Not advertised as food safe but will probably be ok. I just can't formally advise it!
Don’t you use a shooting board?
Does "ME" on the clamps mean they belong to you? xD
I guess that stands for Matt Estlea, same on the shirt :)
Your initials are very you...
After all 4 videos and you didn't even show it finished? ouch
first
Lenny matvyeyev AAAAGGHHH IM STILL A FIRST VIRGIN BECAUSE OF YOU!