Loving this series guys. Don't rush if you need parts, I'd rather see it done right and see you guys enjoy it. We all know the feeling of needing some stupid part or tool
Great progress! Two things you may have already considered but just want to bring them up as they caught my attention. The first is the transmission fluid. I know Valvoline is a sponsor and great product, but the J160 has yellow metal synchros and originally speced GL-3 fluid. Some GL-4/GL-5 oils are safe for yellow metals and some are not. Valvoline's product page for their flexfill pouch GL-4/GL-5 75w-90 as safe for conventional and limited slip diffs and non-synchronized manual transmissions. This makes me think it's not yellow-metal safe. Might want to drop a line to them and see what they think or if they have a different fluid that would be ideal. The second is the relocated inlet pipe on the rad. For the 76-77 Celica radiator, Koyorad specifies it's ideal for R engines but T series require a fabricated crossover pipe (as does the Beams). They don't mention whether it's a single or dual pass rad, which makes me think it's a single pass. In that case, the inlet and outlet should be on opposite sides so the coolant crosses through the entire rad and is cooled efficiently, rather than "shortcutting" and flowing directly down from the inlet to the outlet. Koyo also has a Beams swap rad for the AE86 chassis that has the inlet and outlet on the left side to suit the Beams, but it's also specified that it's a dual core rad which mitigates the issue. Would be worth contacting them as well to make sure the potentially reduced cooling efficiency won't be an issue. You may have already considered both of these or talked with people who have already done it and had no issues. Better safe than sorry, though!
As a small business owner, I totally appreciate the effort you guys seem to put into balancing home and work life! I struggle so much trying to maintain normal hours! 😅
@@speedacademydave all of the hard work isn't going unnoticed! We all appreciate the effort you both put into this channel! Looking forward to seeing Connie ripping again!
So appreciative (and completely jealous) of the work you guys share. I LOVE the early era Celica (even earlier than this one, honestly), and to watch you guys do what I do (when time allows), is a gift. Eventually, when I get sent to do a 767 pickle fork in your town, I will be heading your way, only to shake your hand, bring you lunch, and say thanks for the content. You are in my top 5 subscribe channels. Nice to have you share that not everything on the internet is easy, or works perfectly. The exhaust is where you need to address the other problems. Keep going guys- we all love this!
Amazing job! These are one of my favorite classic sports cars, and you guys are definitely doing it justice with this build. Awesome to see such a good guy getting to build his dream car. Maybe one day I’ll be able to do the same.
So the altezza box the is200 share the same box minus the bellhousing, 1gfe or 3sge, also the shifter pivot like you found out was on the long this is for the is200 and the short way for the altezza, they do share rear housings, the same mount can be used just moved forward or backward and the holes are all there for either
So glad to see Connie back front and center on here! Frustrating days like what you've shown here will be worth it when you get to the end result. That's what I'm telling myself at least LOL
At work I've found that cutting silicon hoses with a fine pitch teeth blade and high speed in a circular saw leaves a super smooth finish (I'm super careful with the descent and how I lock the hose). Or if you want to smooth the ends, the belt grinder with 120 grit belt works well too. It's just messy ahah
The label design and application department is where everyone gets demoted to before being fired. FoMoCo puts the parts sticker for a timing chain guide right where the chain rides. And they never come off in 1 piece lol.
The flywheel is crazy guys. That thing is gonna be snappy. For spirited driving I prefer around 17lbs. But... that light flywheel will definitely give Connie some "guff" from idle to redline.
I believe removing the switch board you built for the dashboard and going back to stock switches etc. would be super cool. In case you were wondering what I thought, haha.
Really nice car and nice work! Maybe This is what you ment, RC is located in the Middle of the Panhard bar. Height over ground doesnt change if you lower the car. My experience is that mounting the PH bar as low as you can, is the best for handeling. I have build a couple if Cars and mounted the PH var about 120mm over ground, just enough clearance so it doesnt touch ground. So please make the change you were thinking of! ❤🤗
Performance wise it would have been better with the radiator pipe on the previous location but I dont think this engine is going to suffer overheating!
Pulling the front anti-sway doesn't fix the problem. You need to reinstall front anti-sway bar and redesign the engine oil sump pan to fit properly. Do it correctly the first time so there is less rework. This is turning out to be a nice build.
Amazing build, and it's nice to see a labour of love finally coming together. Side question, DP, where do you get your excellent hats? Between this and your Recaro hat, I am deeply envious of the hat game.
The danger of a lightened flywheel is the throttle response can be too immediate rpms, dropping too quickly between shifts Vibrant has a nice break away coupler that would be a nice idea for the fuel Also its much much easier to just modify the exhaust instead of doing alot of suspension reorientation Im still optimistic for the 15 days!!
have you considered changing from a panhard rod to a watts linkage rear end, far better choice from a rear end handling perspective, i know there a kits available for the ae86, you may be able to adapt.
about the exhaust clearance with the panhard bar, it would have been much easier to hammer in a dent in the piping. There has been dyno tests on denting exhaust piping and even on headers and there is a negligible amount of power loss.
Look..I love you guys but if it's not a show car there is nothing wrong with leaving the product lable sticker on the hose. After use it comes off easier. But until then end of its life it benefits the next tech replacing it. Love this build love this channel. Stop fighting product lable stickers. I don't like being labled either but that ain't it 😂
Lil trick, keep some used synthetic motor oil around in a jar or something, and brush onto old labels like that, and they'll fall off a day later. Depending on what the label is on tho, use your better judgement, as the fuel permeated oil will try to seap into things like paint too.
I like this episode's more classic speed academy style brings me back to the ass2000 days! If you need CAD work done send me the dimensions and I can Model you a plate or an aluminum billet adaptor.
I still think dave needs period correct twin foot long tip exhaust for them jdm points Edit: commented it before I arrived onto dave saying he will change it later in the video
Okay, the adhesive on the rad hose. SUPER annoying right? I'll let you in on a little secret. Skip the parts store/hardware store, and stop at the pharmacy. Ask them if they have (or can order for you) a bottle of "Remove" adhesive remover. It's meant for post-surgery bandages, and it's amazing. Goo Gon is a good product, but this stuff is like, Goo Gon on steroids. Leave it on for 5 minutes, clean the area thoroughly after. It'll be like any sticker that was on there never existed
6 years ago you used a SQ shift relocation kit, have you moved the motor around enough to not need it any more? ( was on SQ's site looking for something else and saw a link to your old vid)
I always noticed that Japan made engines are so simple mechanically. European engines are so complicated and using so many small parts all over the engine.
The JSP pan looks super nice, but I do like the Surfab pan because it increases capacity, has trap doors to keep oil by the pick-up, but most importantly because it's a steel pan it will bend rather than shatter the way aluminum pans can if it bottoms out (something I have first-hand experience with on Honda K-series pans with aluminum pans).
@@speedacademydave fair enough, I guess that aspect is one to consider aswell. Appreciate the reply. Doing a beams 86 swap currently so I genuinely will take your input into mind.
I like the Canadian flag over the US flag you have on the wall. You should put a Mexican flag on the bottom and you'll have all of North America represented.
Clearance the exhaust. I'd rather mess with something inconsequential like the exhaust than fuss around with suspension geometry, especially since you already have modified the rear axle setup once. Don't start spiraling on modifying the rear suspension. Just fix the exhaust.
Thanks for not putting out some April fools BS video.
The best thing about the pandemic was no April fools junk... good times.
Seriously. I have come to despise 4/1 shenanigans
What are you taking about? This build is a fucking joke! Jk.
Agreed
The only acceptable April fools video is Chris fix’s. Every year.
Really enjoy the figure it out as we go format for this series. That's definitely how it goes.
lightweight flywheels are one of my favorite mods. they completely change the characteristics of the car.
Loving this series guys. Don't rush if you need parts, I'd rather see it done right and see you guys enjoy it. We all know the feeling of needing some stupid part or tool
Realy like the idea of telling the amount of hour in days that have gone by. Cool build
Great progress! Two things you may have already considered but just want to bring them up as they caught my attention.
The first is the transmission fluid. I know Valvoline is a sponsor and great product, but the J160 has yellow metal synchros and originally speced GL-3 fluid. Some GL-4/GL-5 oils are safe for yellow metals and some are not. Valvoline's product page for their flexfill pouch GL-4/GL-5 75w-90 as safe for conventional and limited slip diffs and non-synchronized manual transmissions. This makes me think it's not yellow-metal safe. Might want to drop a line to them and see what they think or if they have a different fluid that would be ideal.
The second is the relocated inlet pipe on the rad. For the 76-77 Celica radiator, Koyorad specifies it's ideal for R engines but T series require a fabricated crossover pipe (as does the Beams). They don't mention whether it's a single or dual pass rad, which makes me think it's a single pass. In that case, the inlet and outlet should be on opposite sides so the coolant crosses through the entire rad and is cooled efficiently, rather than "shortcutting" and flowing directly down from the inlet to the outlet. Koyo also has a Beams swap rad for the AE86 chassis that has the inlet and outlet on the left side to suit the Beams, but it's also specified that it's a dual core rad which mitigates the issue. Would be worth contacting them as well to make sure the potentially reduced cooling efficiency won't be an issue.
You may have already considered both of these or talked with people who have already done it and had no issues. Better safe than sorry, though!
Love that electrical connection ASMR.
As a small business owner, I totally appreciate the effort you guys seem to put into balancing home and work life! I struggle so much trying to maintain normal hours! 😅
Definitely a struggle for us too, Pete has being editing all the videos late at night lately because we're thrashing so hard all day at the shop.
@@speedacademydave all of the hard work isn't going unnoticed! We all appreciate the effort you both put into this channel! Looking forward to seeing Connie ripping again!
So appreciative (and completely jealous) of the work you guys share. I LOVE the early era Celica (even earlier than this one, honestly), and to watch you guys do what I do (when time allows), is a gift. Eventually, when I get sent to do a 767 pickle fork in your town, I will be heading your way, only to shake your hand, bring you lunch, and say thanks for the content. You are in my top 5 subscribe channels. Nice to have you share that not everything on the internet is easy, or works perfectly. The exhaust is where you need to address the other problems. Keep going guys- we all love this!
Stupid off topic question, why are you replacing 767 pickle forks?
You got this in 15 days Dave!!!! Getting there! Don't get discouraged yet
I'm glad I don't have anything nice. Watching you guys work with the fresh paint looks agonising!
Connie is a thing of beauty 😍
You guys have the best funky 80s vibe music in your videos
No music and more work being shown would be preferred
Have a toda lightweight flywheel on my s2000 and love it!
I'm really pulling for you guys!!! I've been down a few rabbit holes myself so I definitely know the feeling!
The joy of building a car.
Amazing job! These are one of my favorite classic sports cars, and you guys are definitely doing it justice with this build. Awesome to see such a good guy getting to build his dream car. Maybe one day I’ll be able to do the same.
Really love watching your videos guys! Gives me motivation for getting back to work on my life long project car, my '73 Beetle.
Far easier to mod the exhaust i think!
It would make sense to modify the exhaust since they're intending to change the muffler
Keen to see this build get finished
You guys really grinding on this build. She coming together nicely.
So the altezza box the is200 share the same box minus the bellhousing, 1gfe or 3sge, also the shifter pivot like you found out was on the long this is for the is200 and the short way for the altezza, they do share rear housings, the same mount can be used just moved forward or backward and the holes are all there for either
Been waiting all week for this. So good
Thanks for the vid. Looks like you sorted the trunk lid.
we did, your tip worked great! Just zip tied the two torsion rods together to create more tension and it stays open nicely.
So glad to see Connie back front and center on here! Frustrating days like what you've shown here will be worth it when you get to the end result. That's what I'm telling myself at least LOL
At work I've found that cutting silicon hoses with a fine pitch teeth blade and high speed in a circular saw leaves a super smooth finish (I'm super careful with the descent and how I lock the hose). Or if you want to smooth the ends, the belt grinder with 120 grit belt works well too. It's just messy ahah
Absolutely love this build, keep up the great work guys!
Thanks for sharing the project. It's a blast watching the Celica go back together.
Love Canadian shows, “PrOgress” “PrOject”, awesome work guys.
The outro music at the end had me cracking up. Nice one!
I love this build so much. Thanks for sharing guys.
I hope to put the BEAMS into my GT86 one day, I’ll make sure to take pointers from the whole series!
Really Music over connector sounds thats ASMR
This build is how Peter becomes St. Peter, of immaculate patience.
The label design and application department is where everyone gets demoted to before being fired. FoMoCo puts the parts sticker for a timing chain guide right where the chain rides. And they never come off in 1 piece lol.
The flywheel is crazy guys. That thing is gonna be snappy. For spirited driving I prefer around 17lbs. But... that light flywheel will definitely give Connie some "guff" from idle to redline.
The ending back ground song 😂😂😂 such challenges you guys are having!
I believe removing the switch board you built for the dashboard and going back to stock switches etc. would be super cool. In case you were wondering what I thought, haha.
You guys are motivators
Really nice car and nice work!
Maybe This is what you ment, RC is located in the Middle of the Panhard bar. Height over ground doesnt change if you lower the car.
My experience is that mounting the PH bar as low as you can, is the best for handeling. I have build a couple if
Cars and mounted the PH var about 120mm over ground, just enough clearance so it doesnt touch ground.
So please make the change you were thinking of! ❤🤗
I also don’t have enough hose
Performance wise it would have been better with the radiator pipe on the previous location but I dont think this engine is going to suffer overheating!
Its looking good!
Killer hat DP!
Sure seems like modifying the exhaust would be the far simpler solution.
Since you’re changing the exhaust already. That would be the easier solution
You should consider doing what vice grip garage does when it comes to the list and put it on the windshield
Nice one🤝💯🔥👍💪
Looks like the same fuel tank in my 92 SC. Super safe.
I see BEAMS, I click.
ditto...
Pulling the front anti-sway doesn't fix the problem. You need to reinstall front anti-sway bar and redesign the engine oil sump pan to fit properly. Do it correctly the first time so there is less rework. This is turning out to be a nice build.
Needs one of those sequential shifters for it i drove a car with one and it was amazing almost like the real thing
Nice work, would love to have one of these, alas, modded cars are strictly no no where I live.
Amazing build, and it's nice to see a labour of love finally coming together. Side question, DP, where do you get your excellent hats? Between this and your Recaro hat, I am deeply envious of the hat game.
The danger of a lightened flywheel is the throttle response can be too immediate rpms, dropping too quickly between shifts
Vibrant has a nice break away coupler that would be a nice idea for the fuel
Also its much much easier to just modify the exhaust instead of doing alot of suspension reorientation
Im still optimistic for the 15 days!!
Yeah just mod the exhaust.
have you considered changing from a panhard rod to a watts linkage rear end, far better choice from a rear end handling perspective, i know there a kits available for the ae86, you may be able to adapt.
This is badass
Looks like you had room above the rear panhard rod if you adjust the exhaust bend radius slightly.
about the exhaust clearance with the panhard bar, it would have been much easier to hammer in a dent in the piping. There has been dyno tests on denting exhaust piping and even on headers and there is a negligible amount of power loss.
🎼Dayco come and we got a rad hose 🎶
Look..I love you guys but if it's not a show car there is nothing wrong with leaving the product lable sticker on the hose. After use it comes off easier. But until then end of its life it benefits the next tech replacing it. Love this build love this channel. Stop fighting product lable stickers. I don't like being labled either but that ain't it 😂
the music is perfect haha
love the build as always guys🙌🏻 cant wait to see what backlight those speedhut😋 white color? emmm
Try ORC clutches, best clutch ever for lightweight and quality
Lil trick, keep some used synthetic motor oil around in a jar or something, and brush onto old labels like that, and they'll fall off a day later. Depending on what the label is on tho, use your better judgement, as the fuel permeated oil will try to seap into things like paint too.
Wd40 removes it immediately
You should cut the front corners off the oil pan so you can keep the sway bar
We don't need to know the part number of the lower rad hose, but you might want it later to get a replacement.
I like this episode's more classic speed academy style brings me back to the ass2000 days! If you need CAD work done send me the dimensions and I can Model you a plate or an aluminum billet adaptor.
12:37 😂😂DP
Dope car ngl
Ths exhaust runner is gonna burn that hose being so close. Might need some heat shielding
So is Connie gonna race Sarah n Tuned's Celica?
I still think dave needs period correct twin foot long tip exhaust for them jdm points
Edit: commented it before I arrived onto dave saying he will change it later in the video
Another great Connie video!! Any plans this summer for a car show/track day with some of the projects? 🍻
Ya we will likely have our usual late Sept lapping day track meet
Right on! I'll mark it off on the calendar. Keep up the awesome work guys,
HAMMER
EXHAUST
UNGA DUNGA
BANG BANG
LIFE GOOD.
Okay, the adhesive on the rad hose. SUPER annoying right? I'll let you in on a little secret. Skip the parts store/hardware store, and stop at the pharmacy. Ask them if they have (or can order for you) a bottle of "Remove" adhesive remover. It's meant for post-surgery bandages, and it's amazing. Goo Gon is a good product, but this stuff is like, Goo Gon on steroids. Leave it on for 5 minutes, clean the area thoroughly after. It'll be like any sticker that was on there never existed
Drop links upside down? Keep on keeping on 🙏🏽
Just modify the exhaust routing when you replace the muffler.
Why don't you use a shorter exhaust hangar to lift the exhaust over the bar in the rear?
Far easier for you guys to modify the exhaust considering the muffler will be getting changed anyways
6 years ago you used a SQ shift relocation kit, have you moved the motor around enough to not need it any more?
( was on SQ's site looking for something else and saw a link to your old vid)
Decided I wanted the shifter further back since we moved the seats back. We opened up the tunnel hole for the shifter a bit to accommodate that.
Sticking brake calipers, getting new ones = +60whp = +10mpg...
Digging the hks color hat, where can one buy that?
Importbible.com
For sticker removal: heat gun or hair dryer.
I always noticed that Japan made engines are so simple mechanically. European engines are so complicated and using so many small parts all over the engine.
16:31 Too bad it didn't reach to Kitchener or Brantford...then you'd have hose in different area codes.
Shout out to Roddy Ricch!
I still cant figure out why after redoing it a 2nd time, your still going with the surfab oil pan over the billet one jsp has now.
The JSP pan looks super nice, but I do like the Surfab pan because it increases capacity, has trap doors to keep oil by the pick-up, but most importantly because it's a steel pan it will bend rather than shatter the way aluminum pans can if it bottoms out (something I have first-hand experience with on Honda K-series pans with aluminum pans).
@@speedacademydave fair enough, I guess that aspect is one to consider aswell. Appreciate the reply. Doing a beams 86 swap currently so I genuinely will take your input into mind.
Anyone else get Edward Scissorhands vibes from the music at the end lol
my anxiety went through the roof after you did not show a shot of you removing the flywheel lock teeth thingy
LOL the gearbox would not fit up with the locking tool was left in place. It's all good, Scotti!
You never have enough hose...or boats.
I like the Canadian flag over the US flag you have on the wall. You should put a Mexican flag on the bottom and you'll have all of North America represented.
Cool idea 👍
Clearance the exhaust. I'd rather mess with something inconsequential like the exhaust than fuss around with suspension geometry, especially since you already have modified the rear axle setup once. Don't start spiraling on modifying the rear suspension. Just fix the exhaust.
What's the white thing on the fly wheel? We just saw you clean it then installing the clutch and there's something on that flywheel.
Just a reflection from our light box
I think if you freeze the object the glue would let go better.
Fingernail did the job 😆
16:29 when Snoop Dogg shoots a video clip and is heading backstage
2 foot steel extension.
Custom car things smh lol. I'm along for the ride though!
Chase Bays brake booster delete kit.
Welcome to the suffering phase.
That's what the priest said at my wedding...
This is why excessive modification isn’t always a good thing
OEM Redesign vs OEM +...