Edit: For accuracy... This is certainly one of your best suspension mods you have done. No doubt, the panhard drop bracket will work better at reducing the axel side to side movement (sagitta). But, by dropping the pivot point, you lower the roll center, which can increase body roll. And no, putting a longer/adjustable panhard does NOT help reduce the amount of side to side axle movement, it will actually increase it. It will only help you center the axel at static ride height, far better to leave the panhard at factory length. The better option is, to use a lift bracket on the axel, however, due to limited clearance above the axel, you can only get away with a 2" riser bracket on the axel, the other 1.5" inches has to be a drop bracket on the chassis. This is still a better idea than using just a drop bracket, as we are raising the roll center, instead of lowering it. The Emkeith weld-on brackes are the go. You could get your ride handling even better if you fix your front suspension... Check your front suspension droop, I bet you don't have much droop left at that ride hight? Those OME shocks you have are the same length as a stock factory shock, you need longer shocks when lifting above 50mm and above. The shocks need to be around 20mm longer, this will give around 40mm more droop at the wheels. Check your droop from the ride height, you need at least 70mm for best results. Love your channel. 👍
I've had this on my 04 lx for a few years now. Thought it was a piece of art when I opened the box, almost didn't install it. Rock solid product easy install.
Nice vid Chow! It’s a great mod… it reduces the side to side butt wiggle when the rear susp is in action. Feels much more stable. In my case, i got an adjustable Panhard and the Delta panhard bracket… but they say its made to be used with a stock panhard, so I still havent used the adjustable bar yet. Couple extra notes in my case: with 270k miles on my stock bar, i replaced the rubber bush with Poly bushings, and its still working great after 7k miles. Another issue i had initially was the axle wasnt centered perfectly with the Delta drop brqcket and stock bar. What i did was loosen the Delta bracket, and wiggle/push the rear of my 100 so the axle got centered (with stock pan bar) and then tighten the Delta bracket. Now the axle is centered and the bar is level with the ground too. Life is good 🤙 Got pics in ih8mud as well…
Nice work. My hundy has air bags installed inside the coils and with the towing I do, I sometimes have 40psi, which raises the rear end. I’ve noticed it behaves how you mentioned, at times. I never knew why. The odd time, I’ve been lazy and not emptied out the air bags when I had no load on the back. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks.
Interesting update! On my last LX with about 3" lift, I just used the adjustable panhard. It centered the rear perfectly and didn't require any modifications! Are you on mud? what's you handle there?
@@chowcares correct… an adjustable bar only corrects the static position of the axle (and looks cool 😎), but once the axle is in play (esp when the driver side goes up and down), and angled Pan bar will cause extra side motion of the axle. Easy to visualize if you draw a circle at the upper pan bar bolt hole and follow the arc when the rear susp compress or extends. Totally worth leveling out the pan bar. Noticeable improvement in stability 🤘🤘
@@josephpark421 Edit: You're right, I was wrong, sorry. So yeah, you're right, an adjustable panhard only corrects the static position at ride height, and by lengthening the bar on the factory mounts, it actually increases the side to side axel movement. What I should have said was, if you move pivot mounting further apart and then fit a longer panhard, this will help reduce the side to side axel movement. But if can keep the factory panhard bar parallel with the axel, there will be very minimal side to side axel movement.
Btw Ray Uchida is my wife’s maiden name, long long ago I was accidentally logged in when I purchased UA-cam Red and never got around to changing it. Funny though if you are indeed the same guy when I helped you on PCH something in me thought I seen you before but I couldn’t put it together. Then I saw all these videos and was like damn what a small world.
That rear axle is starting to weep, don’t make my mistake and go Toyota on the 2 seals, also if you get to do a video will be nice. Mine is leaking again after 2 months and I don’t drive much. Another note is that I only did one side guy at the shop was suggesting both but the other axle is just fine. Probably it will be leaking if I have done both. Cheers
Crazy. I don’t know if you read the comments but happened upon your channel. Weird thing is I started watching your videos and then it dawned on me, I’m pretty sure you bought Work XD9s from me with your girlfriend, you liked my Prius on bags, and you came in a 100 series Land Cruiser. It literally dawned on me when I saw your video with the FC in the background. Even crazier is when I started checking out your other videos I saw your Honda Elite!!! And guess what I’m also the same guy who gave you gas on the side of the road on PCH near the Sand hills in Malibu. Pretty sure that was you too. Sorry to sound like a stalker but tripped me out. Let me know if I am correct. Anyway good stuff.
Hi, love your videos! I own a 100 series and my AHC just failed. Planning on doing a 2 inch lift and was wondering what you would recommend in terms of parts to swap out. I was planning on doing Shocks, springs and new torsion bars with a diff drop. Will drivability be okay without new UCA, extended sway links and a pan hard drop? I mainly drive roads, I’m not looking to have a off road beast.
Not sure if you did any mods yet but you don't have to do extended sway links. UCA like SPC, will help with your alignment and not eating through tires. Everything else you mentioned is good. I'd also check all your ball joints and bushings, also grease your u-joints etc.
Edit: For accuracy...
This is certainly one of your best suspension mods you have done. No doubt, the panhard drop bracket will work better at reducing the axel side to side movement (sagitta).
But, by dropping the pivot point, you lower the roll center, which can increase body roll.
And no, putting a longer/adjustable panhard does NOT help reduce the amount of side to side axle movement, it will actually increase it. It will only help you center the axel at static ride height, far better to leave the panhard at factory length.
The better option is, to use a lift bracket on the axel, however, due to limited clearance above the axel, you can only get away with a 2" riser bracket on the axel, the other 1.5" inches has to be a drop bracket on the chassis. This is still a better idea than using just a drop bracket, as we are raising the roll center, instead of lowering it. The Emkeith weld-on brackes are the go.
You could get your ride handling even better if you fix your front suspension... Check your front suspension droop, I bet you don't have much droop left at that ride hight? Those OME shocks you have are the same length as a stock factory shock, you need longer shocks when lifting above 50mm and above. The shocks need to be around 20mm longer, this will give around 40mm more droop at the wheels. Check your droop from the ride height, you need at least 70mm for best results.
Love your channel. 👍
I've had this on my 04 lx for a few years now. Thought it was a piece of art when I opened the box, almost didn't install it. Rock solid product easy install.
Nice vid Chow! It’s a great mod… it reduces the side to side butt wiggle when the rear susp is in action. Feels much more stable.
In my case, i got an adjustable Panhard and the Delta panhard bracket… but they say its made to be used with a stock panhard, so I still havent used the adjustable bar yet.
Couple extra notes in my case: with 270k miles on my stock bar, i replaced the rubber bush with Poly bushings, and its still working great after 7k miles. Another issue i had initially was the axle wasnt centered perfectly with the Delta drop brqcket and stock bar. What i did was loosen the Delta bracket, and wiggle/push the rear of my 100 so the axle got centered (with stock pan bar) and then tighten the Delta bracket. Now the axle is centered and the bar is level with the ground too. Life is good 🤙
Got pics in ih8mud as well…
Another excellent upload! Someone in he hundy fb group recently posted their install with photos and opinions. It drove me to make the purchase!
Nice work. My hundy has air bags installed inside the coils and with the towing I do, I sometimes have 40psi, which raises the rear end. I’ve noticed it behaves how you mentioned, at times. I never knew why. The odd time, I’ve been lazy and not emptied out the air bags when I had no load on the back. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks.
Another great video. Been waiting for someone to do a video on this. Always appreciate your content. Good to have you back.
Happy I ran across this. I’m about to lift my LX and will definitely be ordering this as well.
I also found those OME shocks to suck for 100 series, great for 80.
I went with FCP's over OME. So far so good. Beefy and not as pricey for Radflo, King, etc.
Interesting update! On my last LX with about 3" lift, I just used the adjustable panhard. It centered the rear perfectly and didn't require any modifications!
Are you on mud? what's you handle there?
They do! But you still might have some bump steer in the rear, but it should be a lot better than before!
@@chowcares correct… an adjustable bar only corrects the static position of the axle (and looks cool 😎), but once the axle is in play (esp when the driver side goes up and down), and angled Pan bar will cause extra side motion of the axle. Easy to visualize if you draw a circle at the upper pan bar bolt hole and follow the arc when the rear susp compress or extends. Totally worth leveling out the pan bar. Noticeable improvement in stability 🤘🤘
@@josephpark421 Edit: You're right, I was wrong, sorry.
So yeah, you're right, an adjustable panhard only corrects the static position at ride height, and by lengthening the bar on the factory mounts, it actually increases the side to side axel movement.
What I should have said was, if you move pivot mounting further apart and then fit a longer panhard, this will help reduce the side to side axel movement. But if can keep the factory panhard bar parallel with the axel, there will be very minimal side to side axel movement.
Btw Ray Uchida is my wife’s maiden name, long long ago I was accidentally logged in when I purchased UA-cam Red and never got around to changing it. Funny though if you are indeed the same guy when I helped you on PCH something in me thought I seen you before but I couldn’t put it together. Then I saw all these videos and was like damn what a small world.
That rear axle is starting to weep, don’t make my mistake and go Toyota on the 2 seals, also if you get to do a video will be nice. Mine is leaking again after 2 months and I don’t drive much. Another note is that I only did one side guy at the shop was suggesting both but the other axle is just fine. Probably it will be leaking if I have done both. Cheers
Thanks for the head up! I completed the axles with all new oem seals and bearings. So far so good, hopefully they will last another 20 years!
Crazy. I don’t know if you read the comments but happened upon your channel. Weird thing is I started watching your videos and then it dawned on me, I’m pretty sure you bought Work XD9s from me with your girlfriend, you liked my Prius on bags, and you came in a 100 series Land Cruiser. It literally dawned on me when I saw your video with the FC in the background. Even crazier is when I started checking out your other videos I saw your Honda Elite!!! And guess what I’m also the same guy who gave you gas on the side of the road on PCH near the Sand hills in Malibu. Pretty sure that was you too. Sorry to sound like a stalker but tripped me out. Let me know if I am correct. Anyway good stuff.
Good to see another informative video
Nice. I do wish that chunk of steel was a bit cheaper though.
man you are doing a great work thanx for this video and all your work
Just wanted to ask why you removed the sway bar?
Yes...Why?
That is probably part of the stability issue being experienced.
About to install this on my 05 100 series. About how long does this install take -assuming everything goes smoothly?
Just would like to ask that you use the pure petrol or mix with gas
Just picked up an 04 LC 100 with 118xxx. Noticed the drivers side leans about a half inch. Any suggestions or insight ?
Hi, love your videos! I own a 100 series and my AHC just failed. Planning on doing a 2 inch lift and was wondering what you would recommend in terms of parts to swap out.
I was planning on doing Shocks, springs and new torsion bars with a diff drop.
Will drivability be okay without new UCA, extended sway links and a pan hard drop?
I mainly drive roads, I’m not looking to have a off road beast.
Not sure if you did any mods yet but you don't have to do extended sway links. UCA like SPC, will help with your alignment and not eating through tires. Everything else you mentioned is good. I'd also check all your ball joints and bushings, also grease your u-joints etc.
Miss you man
Landy videos let’s go!