Heat Pump Reversing Valve Troubleshooting Tips (Switchover Valve)
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- This video will focus on troubleshooting the reversing valve on a heat pump, also known as the switchover valve. The reversing valve exists to change the direction of the refrigerant. Here are some tips for what we should be troubleshooting to diagnose or a heat pump not heating.
In heating mode, a reversing valve reverses the refrigerant flow to make the evaporator coil inside the hot condenser coil and the outdoor condenser coil the cold evaporator coil. So, we're trying to extract heat from the outside and bring it inside.
The reversing valve exists to change the direction of the refrigerant. Twenty-four volts from the defrost board energizes the solenoid on it. On 90% of the systems out there, the reversing valve defaults to heating mode. This way, if the valve is not working or doesn't have 24 volts flowing to it, at least the heat still works. That's because, in most parts of the country, heating is more important than cooling.
The solenoid coil moves a pilot valve that creates a pressure difference inside the reversing valve. Small capillary-type tubes house the pressurized refrigerant and push the slide laterally to isolate two of the three holes leaving the reversing valve.
The tube in the middle and the tube coming in from the top are attached to the compressor. The incoming line is always the compressor's discharge line, and the middle tube of the three on the bottom is always the compressor's suction line.
The tubes where the refrigerant is flowing in different directions, whether in heating or cooling mode, are on the two sides of that middle suction line. One leads to the outdoor coil, and one leads to the indoor coil. - Навчання та стиль
Wow. Do you know how many videos there are out there that imply that it's all but impossible to tell between a bad RV and a bad compressor? You make it sound so easy. I think this may be the most technical video of yours I've seen. Right up there with HVAC School channel but they're in Florida. HVAC from a different planet.
Comment pinned! Thanks bro. I wanted to get this series out there. Going to do an AC series next. Then I'll come back around to the heat pump.
@@foxfamilyheatingandaircond4696 Hey I just ran into a video from Lennox Learning Solutions channel called testing reversing valves where he uses a small magnet to visually verify the internal movement of a reversing valve. If you haven't seen it or done it I thought it was really clever. Do tell what you think. Thanks.
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind I was curious if those solenoid valve magnets would work. Seemed like they would. I was thinking of picking one up in case my solenoid goes out in summer. could just pop that on and keep the RV in cooling mode till a replacement solenoid could be sourced and installed. I'd seen them used on refrigeration system solenoid valves by Chris at HVACR Videos
@@jkbrown5496 OK this will be a real hack(and I do mean real) but I suppose if you know you're going to replace an RV that doesn't always play well with the transition to cooling, maybe put it in cool mode and just give it a little pinch behind the pig to lock it in. I know EVERYBODY'S going to SCREAM at me but if there does happen to be anyone else thinking the same at least the naysayers will have their day in court by me mentioning it.
The replies are bound to be akin to that about someone promoting MAGA hats.
At least the entertainment value will be there.
You're welcome and thank you.
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind bahahaha,,,
= 27 year commercial HVAC journeyman
LOVE IT!
Excellent explanation. The cut-away reversing valve really helps. The "Light tapping" on the valve to un-stick it, is factual humor at its finest! As? (More humor) As we know from any Submarine Machinist mate, a crescent wrench is really a "Crescent Hammer!"
Again, a simply outstanding job of explaining it! Hat tip & two thumbs up!
Without question this is the best tutorial on reversing valves on you tube, and there are a bunch
Glad to hear you mention the delta T method, Iv replaced a great deal of Rvs and the majority fault was : slight bypassing, which another tech might diagnose as compressor not pumping properly.
Another trap for new guys: never leave an energised coil floating midair, the coil will cook itself
Very interesting insight. Thanks Nathan!
This is the best explanation of how the reversing valve works, and can fail to work, that I have found. Great explanation and level of detail!
Thank you!
I’m a commercial tech, and heat pumps are a terrific idea if you own an electric company. It’s also a great way to shorten the life of your outdoor unit by 50% because it ends up running 12 months a year. If you want to default to cooling mode, then your system should be a Rheem or Rudd system.
Very informative, thank you. I’ve been in HVAC for more than a decade, and around my area, heat pumps are starting to become a bit more popular nowadays…
Good video I learned something new. I would also like to add something else to that list. Sometimes the capillary lines can get plugged and thus will not allow the plunger to slide completely. You might get an occasional tone change!
Great video and great explanation, thanks.
Great job dude great job specifics are key in diagnostics
Excellent video. Thank you!
You helped me fix my system. Thank you. To the point video.
Just fixed my ac thanks to this video
Very good explanation and professional keep up the good work 👌
Glad you liked it.
Very well done look forward more videos
Always excellent videos!
Very good video good information thank you
You sly Fox you; you just made me subscribe to your channel, with all of that Reversing Valve Body talk!
Thank you fox family, I love your videos.
I would rather have my nose hairs extracted by a crowbar than replace a reversing valve.
Me too!
Almost fell off the roof laughing
🤣🤣🤣 I just replace the condensing unit
Reversing valve is a water valve close and open if the valve don't open for cooling or heating. The valve is defective. Only difference is 24 volts applied for cooling mode and some manufacturers don't require 24 volts to the soloniod in the cooling mode. Verify metering devices is working no restrictions in the refrigerant system.
Cause you are not qualified
Great info; great explanation. Thanks!
Great video Greg
Thx!
Really nice 👍 thank you
Thank you for your video!
Thanks for watching. Hope it helped
Booooooy, its hot up in here "Washington state" ha ha,,, think my neighbors reversing valve on an old Trane XP 1000 HP is bad as i am watching this video as we speak trying to fix it for em,, I do get 24 volts at valve in ac mode, but even pressure at manifold still,, hmmm, "tried a bit o tapping " lol now am going to try and go back and forth from heat to cooling,,,,
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!!! BLESSINGS 🙏
Great video 💯💯💯💯
This happen on the south of Texas the valve get stuck half way or not all the way over which the evaporative coil is not getting cool down all the way it should. The compressor seems to be working fine
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Beautiful.
Here in sweden heat pumps have 230V when in heating mode to the pilot valve and 0V when in cooling mode
This allowed me to diagnose a bad control board sending 10v to solenoid and jump it from the fan to send 24V so I have cooling again until my new unit arrives. My family thanks you.
Vrey nice full not drshion opesting fixing mod ifhcshion cancelingsystom fixing mechisom not not circulingsystom revacing vas suspering het hotco rmsl working not movring revacing 4way 24 wr hotcsed systom wringrec sic rfingeat side expashion 3sie.. outer other sidfix ine
...what?@@jollyscaria1922
great video sir
Thank you!
I want to find out if there is something that can be done for a reversing valve in an 8 ton carrier split system that has a temp differential on the suction side before rv and a 20 degree td on the suction pipe after the valve. the system is about 8 years old and don't feel unit is a candidate to be condemned. I have been a state licensed contractor in south fl for over 35 years but don't have a strong background on heat pumps as most of south fl units are straight cool with electric heat.
Would a bad reversing valve cause a low vibration that gives pressure inside the home which can hurt your ears? I’m having issues with my electric heat pump and I’m unable to turn my heat on. I checked the blower motor for debris, the outside fan looks fine as well as all concerning bolts. I am calling someone out this week, but since its just me, I would hate to be taken advantage, so it might help me to know a little something more about whats going on.
Btw, my heat seems to work just fine, in every other way, its only the pressure and vibration that builds up in my home making me feel as ill and thats the reason I shut it down and its not in use. The sound can be almost rhythmic as if music is playing outside and as if a motor is running next to the bedroom. I can place a bottled water on my bed and you can see the vibration within the water. There’s no banging in the ducts or whistling either. Any info will be helpful.
Thanks!
Nice vid, thx! Pretty sure this valve is flaky on my 8yo Mitsubishi 3C30. It mostly works OK in heat mode unless I make the mistake of running it in low fan and/or low temp, in which case it can drop into cooling mode (or perhaps in-between). Some combination of switching between modes and banging on the outside chassis has fixed things (so far). Tho I did have one awful late winter a few years ago where the heat output dropped to barely usable, but I neglected to deal with it. My electric bill for those 2 months was double what it should have been! Now I'm trying to decide whether to get the valve replaced, or just get a whole new unit given its age (if I got the valve replaced, I'd also look into replacing the 2 PCBs, which are probably wearing down-could even do that myself if I could get the boards. In fact, the self tests show some sort of vague unrelated(?) electronics issue, so, all the more reason). Just depends which option makes the most financial sense... (p.s., the compressor in my 2nd Mitsu failed after just 2y. Needless to say, Mitsubishi is NOT my favourite company...)
Rheem products energize the rev coil in heat mode. Someone has to be different? Right? Also, Checking port temps will tell you if it's bypassing. Don't condemn a compressor before your sure the txv is not bad. 30 year HP Vet here.
The heat pump blows hot air for a minute on "heat mode' and the air become warm. What do you think would be the cause? Please advise.
In heating mode if he indoor fan stops running, would that cause the compressor suction line to be warm on a package unit? I was suspecting a reversing valve issue but discovered the blower randomly stopped running (bad fan delay relay) this whole issue caused the compressor to go on overload .
So if my reversing valve is stuck on cool can I just disconnect the 24v solenoid and it will default to heat? I know it's probably not that easy but I'm willing to try as it's almost winter
I found two reversing valves not working; neither was the reversing valve failure. One was the wrong setting on the thermostat and the other a wiring not working.
So here’s a new one for me.. got to a heat pump 3 years old, Lennox, stuck in pressure lockout. Reset get it going, sure thing, trips. Look at my pressures and low side is really low, 410a.. 25psi, high side seems normal. Thought I add refrigerant to give that a try and it starts filling up my tank with refrigerant, no joke. Filled my tank with a whole extra 1lb. Wouldn’t take refrigerant at all. Turned it off and let it settle, I was able to add some refrigerant, 1 lb plus what my tank took out, turned it on and still same pressures.. tried to add refrigerant again started going back to the tank.. NEW 410a TANK, couldn’t believe it.. kept it going to see sure it enough my tank took 5 lbs of refrigerant. What would cause this, a bad reversing valve? Put the refrigerant back but don’t know what to estimate? New condensing unit?
Great video! Question: my mother just had a new heat pump/ac system installed. For some reason, when it is on the heat setting, it blows cold ac. And then on cold setting, it blows hot air. Pretty much like it’s backwards. What seems to be the culprit? Reversing valve or possibly wiring?
Sounds like the O/B reversing valve
can reversing get stuck and send high pressure on both lines on heating mode? on cooling mode works just working fine
My unit stuck on heat. Any quick repairs I can do?
Please make a video to understand WSHP.
I did this, my reverse valve was in heat only. Went to the thermostat, put the orange wire (reverse valve) on the red 24v. Then went to the heat pump heard the coil on the valve, ran a manual test pushing in the relay and sure enough cold was running through the line. So my O on the thermostat was not working. i put the orange wire with the yellow Y1 that sends power to the compressor. The Honeywell thermostat is defective. I have ac until the fall. On youtube everyone said it is the valve. Another important thing to check is the transformer, they are supposed to put out 24 to 28v i have 2 defective ones that put out 36 volts ac.. if your thermostat is flashing or acting up . Check the volts.
Can a bad reversing valve cause it's solenoid coil to fail the fail a gain
What if the reversing valve coil is receiving 27 volts
Hi ! I really need your help! I install 2x 3 ton Goodman heat pump
One of the selenoid valve not getting 24v only 17v , (makes buzzing sound)I already swap defrost board , still getting 17v ( pls any advice appreciated!
My mother had her HVAC check, paid 1100 for fan and cap because it would freeze the indoor and outdoor unit, then the 2wks later froze up again, came back and said it was the reversing valve causing it to freeze, is this true, I thought it maybe low on freon
Gday brother . I have an old Mitsubishi 12 hp reverse cycle system … it just tripped out tonight .
I reset the fuse , the soft-start worked - the heating came on for about 5 to 10 minutes , The fuses tripped again .
Upon investigation I noticed the over water flow Pipe to the Bucket has not been getting any over flow . I can see the water has been leaking from inside the unit , and out from the ventilation underneath …. Obviously it’s now affecting some electrical components .
Tripping out the independent fuse In Our fuse box .
I have now isolated it , I have run a cable up inside - the outside overflow pipe To make sure it’s clear , it is 👍 .
Do you have any thoughts as too what else ,I could look for . That might cause this kind of problem . All the external pipes and fittings are - copper and brass , There’s No indication of leaks from those . Any thoughts about it would be appreciated . Thanks 👣🦘
Until I can get it looked at .
Typically how long should a reversing valve last?
My A/C has a heat pump. I am pretty confident that the reversing valve, solenoid, and compressor are all working correctly and as advised in this video.
I do have a Nest, but I am also pretty sure it is working fine and wired correctly.
It automatically switches from cooling to heating when the inside temperature drops below the lower set point. When the temperature rises above the upper set point, the Nest changes to heat mode, and the inside unit/fan runs, but the outside compressor does not run.
If the power is turned off to the inside unit, and/or the Nest is removed from the cradle (or restarted), the issue persists. If the power is turned off to the outside unit, you hear a click almost immediately, and after a delay by the Nest (For safety) the compressor kicks on, and it cools normally.
I have gotten my Nest device replaced to be sure that isn't the issue.
I was wondering if the compressor might have a safety/relay mechanism that prevents the compressor from running until the power is cycled when switching specifically from heat to cool mode (not from cool to heat mode)?
Do you have any advice?
Sometimes, 5 minutes for delay
Also, I believe there needs to be a 3-5 difference before heat/cool comes on. This way your need immediately heating/cooling after the other cycle finishes.
👍
A wax build up would be a telltale sign that acid is eating the copper causing a mushing surface of the copper that is getting eaten away. Looking like a wax effect.
Didn't answer my question, reversing valve energizes when in cooling mode, it's always energized, thermostat calls for heat, reversing valve doesn't de-energize keeps blowing cool, I remove power from the coil by removing power the reversing valve slides to heating. Reversing valve isn't stuck, it's just constantly energized. This is a commercial unit that cools the lobby and has a remote sensor to the tstat which is in another area. I've disconnected The dft , still same problem. Could it's be the sensor even though the thermostat is calling for heat like it should?
I'm not sure about commercial. There could be something in the low voltage communication. It sounds like you're grasping the right concept though. Hope you find it. Let me know
Did you stop making colored circles 10% of the way through? I was learning
Except ruud heatpump defaults in cooling mode
I have a heat pump blowing 60 degrees and the temperature outside is 28 degrees but it’s not heating why would it not blow hotter? Or is it good?
Need supplemental heat maybe 5 or even 10 kw heat. The cooler outside the less efficient a heat pump is
Hi fox l m work on reehm heat pump plaquette unit 5 tons l live enla Vega nv so we replaced the TXV because l have low pressure 270 and 325 on high pressure do you have ideal waht what's wrong with it
end they do the same low s 275 h 325 and the evaporate is hot 🔥 tank
I’m 16 years old right and have no experience at all. Any tips on how to get ready for this career after high school?
Don't wait till you're out of high school. Start studying now.
There are trade and community college/ schools for this, keep watching UA-cam videos but once you get it you got it and you'll crush it. But probably one of the best ways of learning Is working as an apprentice for an air conditioning company
Thank you for this. I wish I had found it sooner. I live in an area where it doesn't usually get too cold in winter but we've had colder winters lately. We turned the heat on and it worked fine. Then when it warmed up outside it got to hot in the house so we tried to turn the cooling on. It was set to cool but was still heating instead. We had someone come out and he diagnosed the compressor in the condenser as being dead. It was installed in 2010 & had gone through a lot of power surges and storms. We had the outside unit replaced with a unit that matched our inside unit. Cooling was working fine up until tonight. Now it was heating instead of cooling. I turned it off so it cooled down, but I am not sure what the problem is now. The unit outside is new so I don't know if its the compressor or reversing valve. Could it be the board on the internal unit then?
Could be a plethora of things: thermostat, furnace control board, heat pump defrost board, reversing valve solenoid, damaged wiring, improperly wired wet switches, you name it
@@victork3397 It turned out a wire in a molex cable had come loose so the solenoid valve wasn't flipping from heat to cold. Fortunately, the outside unit has a 10yr warranty so the repair was free.
What if mine doesn't want to stay in heating mode it toggles back and forth in heating mode and somtimes trips the main breaker in cooling mode
Did you ever figure this one out?
@@MrIsaiah00 No I have not
@@russellkovacs7939 hmm having similar issue on new heat pump install I was called to service everything is wired in correctly, would issues at the economize controller be the root?
@@MrIsaiah00 That is the new parts i just replaced to grt it running again
@@russellkovacs7939 nice was looking at a schematic all night and it has to be it thanks 👍🏻
How does the unit act kike if the reverse valve is faulty or sticking? How do I know for sure this is the problem? My unit works great on cold setting but on heater setting it will kick in like it's working and like 10 seconds later it stops then 10 or so seconds later starts and then stops. It does this over and over again meanwhile no hot air blows out through the vents.
Trane valve fail in both heating and cooling mode at the same time and cause the compressor to lockout and cause a vibration when going to lockout mode 24 volts is present soloniod in the cooling mode. The heat pump should be in cooling mode to perform the test pull one of the soloniod wire off and will going to heating mode. If compressor going in to lockout defective valve. In the cooling mode no suction psi defective valve. Check the suction tube going to the valve and the center line for the valve with your hands no cooling valve defective easy fix. High side psi good and low side about 23 psi 410 a refrigerant.
Mine is a american standard, it keeps going into lockout mode. 2 of the bottom pipes freeze over and then the unit shuts off for 15 minutes. Then it runs again for 30 seconds then off again. Sound like a stuck valve to you?
@@korycurtis3730moisture and low refrigerant causes system to freeze. recovered the refrigerant pressurize system with nitrogen leak check / vacuum and used a scale to add refrigerant back into the system on the name plate tells you how much lbs into the system.
@@islandbeaches395 OK thanks for the reply, I've got a service guy coming tomorrow. Was just trying to figure it out before I get a bill. Unit is only 3 years old but I guess I'm paying for labor. Seems weird 2 days ago it worked fine, it almost acts intermittent, like a bad metering device causing the reversing valve to freeze.
@@korycurtis3730 without having a compound gauge you cannot diagnose refrigerant cycle. If the the low side goes into vacuum while charging the metering devices may be blocked depending what type metering devices. Piston you can clean the hole. Thermal expansion valve will have to be replace. Hope things work out for you.
Put in a new heat pump Goodman it runs in cool have good pressures but once I run the heat pump it’s runs for 5 min then shuts off and comes back on 5 min cycles
never ever tap on brass reversing valve can damage make worse