DON'T USE STANDARD HAMMERS!! Try This Instead...(Rip Claw Hammer Vs. Curved Claw Hammer--Which One?)
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- Опубліковано 26 лис 2021
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DON'T USE STANDARD HAMMERS!! Try This Instead...(Rip Claw Hammer Vs. Curved Claw Hammer--Which One?)
Over the years, I've seen a lot of STANDARD HAMMERS in DIYers toolboxes. These curved claw hammers aren't bad--but they're rarely used by professionals in the field. This short video from The Honest Carpenter will explain a better hammer selection for construction/DIY work.
Standard hammers have curved claws on the back end. These are great for pulling nails, because the curved claw acts as a fulcrum the the nail pry.
But, standard/curved claw hammers aren't as effective for demolition work, because the fully curved claw is hard to drive into gaps and crevices.
Instead, the RIP CLAW hammer, also known as the STRAIGHT CLAW hammer, is far more effective for most construction work.
The flatter rip claw is like a pick that can be easily driven into gaps and crevices. It creates a LOT of prying power for demolition.
Rip claw hammers also tend to be better for driving nails, because they often come in heavier weights--16 oz. and upwards.
All framing hammers are Rip Claw (though they tend to be 20 oz. or more, which is too unwieldy for most DIYers.)
The 16 oz. rip hammer is the preferred hammer for many professional tradespeople. Though some trades doing more heavy nailing or prying may also prefer 20 oz. for regular work.
Thanks for watching!
The Honest Carpenter - Навчання та стиль
Why are some hammer heads smooth and some with bumps? Please explain, I would really appreciate it!
Thank you! 😀😀😃😃😃😃
The bumps are really just for big framing hammers Ziyad! They’re called “milled” or “waffle” faces, and they prevent the hammer head from slipping, or the nail from bending, when you’re driving big nails. But they scar your material surface too! So, they’re only really effective for heavy framing 🙂
Wow, thank you so much for the detailed reply!
Those bumps are for removing large chunks of skin and knuckle meat from your unsuspecting hands. I speak from experience. Lol
@@blainehankins me too 😆
@@blainehankins good thing I’ve never done that :)
As a retired carpenter with 40yrs experience, here's a pro tip: If you value your elbows, stick with wooden handled hammers. Steel handles cause a huge amount of percussive damage to your elbow and shoulder joints. They're great for demo but not for everyday use.
I would recommend a 20oz wood handled Vaughn straight claw hammer for all situations,
Amen, brother. Used an all-steel Estwing 20. It was like a battering ram. Drove 16s in a single blow and ATE demo. But it ruined my elbow. Then tried fiberglass handles. They splinter and split along the shank above the grip. And you constantly get spikey shards in your hammer hand when you slide it back into the loop.
I ended up with a 20 oz Vaughn. Gives the same advantage as the Estwing but cushions the impact. However, after snapping the handle off of one during demo, I pull out the Estwing to take things apart. And the Vaughn to put them back together.
Yep. I have been guilty on many occasions to overestimate the strength of those wooden handles so I always kept a couple spare handles in the toolbox. Got good at changing handles and always always had a backup just in case. And always carried an Estwing when it was time for "Hulk...smash"
@@blainehankins Good for you with the new handles. I never got very good at it. Hatchets - yes. Go-to hammers - never.
I feel the same way, but wood handles, at least the ones they make today, self destruct. I bought fibreglass handled hammers when they came out, and haven't replaced a single fibreglass handle tool of any kind. The fibreglass handles have the shock absorption qualities of wood.
I love air guns. Neat and easy. Nice sound too.
Perfect timing! I was just getting hammered muhself
It’s thanksgiving weekend after all 🦃
Gold
LOL
Cheers 🍻
🤨
I remember being a noob back in the 70’s and showing up to my first construction job with some crap hammer. My boss drove me to a hardware store and made me buy an Estwing rip claw, which cost like a day’s pay. Fast forward... it’s still my go-to among all the hammers I’ve amassed over time.
He got you started off right, monkey! 😆
@@TheHonestCarpenter Not only are you right, but when I see him he constantly reminds me of that fact!
@@monkeygraborange This is an adorable story lol, especially that you're still in touch with the guy. Very wholesome, sounds like he's a good boss
1989 …….Hi Monkey -- my first day on a residential construction job went similar to yours …… but I showed up with no tools. Boss Joe sent me around the corner to Morgan and Margraff with a list. On that list was specifically, a 20oz Estwing rip-claw hammer. Of all the tools I bought that day (a day’s wages too), the hammer is the only tool I still own and is still on my tool belt tonight! I have retired it but the three times I have bought new estwings, I have lost them somehow forcing my “number 1” back into service.
@@sdsconstruction all the tools you need for a single day’s wage? Man, the 80s were awesome.
I’m a roofer and prefer the standard claw. When reroofing, I pull countless nails with my hammer. I use a 16 oz estwing and is the best hammer money can buy for roofing. But when it comes to use around the house, totally agree with opting for the straight claw.
Good perspective, def!
Same here, I use a Stanley roofing hammer just because it has a sweet little magnet to hold a nail on top of the hammer so you don't need to hold a nail, if you can't use or don't have access to a pasolode nailgun.
But my work mate absolutely swears by the 16oz curved Estwing.
Id buy one myself but I like the Stanley personally.
I grew up using the curved claw hammer. It hasn’t failed or stumped me yet. Being in the electrical trade didn’t require having the rip claw in my repertoire. I’m over 65 so chances are I won’t be changing over anytime soon. I’ll leave that choice to the young bucks coming up through the ranks. Great video as always.
Thanks Bill! I like hearing from other trades. I could see the curved claw working well for electricians, especially because of work being done on more finished surfaces.
Electrician here 20 oz estwing rip hammer
@@matttrackwell9346 Kinda funny. I bought an electricians 16 oz straight claw hammer with the longer hammer head for specialty framing. My Estwing is a little too beefy for staples and clamps on Romex. Kinda squishes the small parts.
was candy a nickel? did people REALLY sit around reading stuff on dead trees?...im #NotABoomer .. tho i am a sparky
Didn't know about one piece straight metal hammers decades ago, until I snapped half a dozen of hammer handles.
Really bad when they breaks after store hours.
Then I started to notice.
I have owned both for 50 years. A 20 oz rip claw for framing and a 16 oz curved claw for finish work. There is even a 10 oz curved claw hammer I keep in a little bag I use for little chores just cause it’s so compact. The curved claw doesn’t snag as much in the bag (and little straight claws are harder to find) There is a little nail puller in the bag too in case the curve can’t cut it. I did framing as a pro many years ago only for a short time. But even DIYers are allowed to own more than one hammer including that one on the other side of a roofer’s hatchet.
I agree, I have a nice 22 oz rip claw framing hammer but I also like having the curved claw hammer in my toolbox. You can usually find a decent one for 6 or 8 bucks at Lowes or the Depot.
Totally agree. A second small curve claw isn’t going to break anyone’s bank. Plus the compact form is sometimes the better tool for the job. Sure I CAN sink a finishing nail with a framing hammer, but do I WANT to sink 20-40 in a row with that heavy thing?
Vaughn sell a nice 10 oz. straight claw with wood handle and they ship direct to customer. I sometimes use on small trim.
I so have a cute 10z wooden handle model somewhere. I do not use is much. It came in a set of some kind.
For me, its a 22 oz. straight-claw Estwing framer. The longer handle allows a bigger swing from the hand and wrist, putting more force behind the blows. For finish work, an old Stanley 16 oz. curved-claw with a tubular steel shank. For difficult nail pulling, I have a couple of cat's paws, one American style and one Japanese style. In some situations, I have found it helpful to use a Wonderbar slipped under a hammer that is gripping a nail head.
-- I have some small hammers, too. I keep a miniature tool bag in my car, with a folding handsaw and a bunch of other basics. I'll admit that it's hard to find well-made small hammers under 16 oz. that aren't too small to accomplish anything. I have found 13 oz. a good head weight for a compact hammer that imposes a not-entirely-frustrating level of extra effort in the trade-off for compactness. And they're small enough to be good gifts for women, but again, not so small that they're completely useless. The biggest clawed hammer I have is a 28 oz. straight-claw Estwing framer, but that's only for spiking landscape timbers.
-- I think all in all, I have about a dozen clawed hammers, including one that I found in a trash pile with its entire face broken off at the narrow section behind the face. Aside from its utility as the hammer I bring out when someone asks to borrow my tools, it's a great conversation piece: "How TF did THAT happen?!"
I would like to point out that although they are not my favorite the curved claw have a couple of attributes that have been indispensable on certain jobs I've worked. Firstly when doing new install electrical rough-in the height of these hammers are great for placing low receptacle boxes on studs at what is known as "hammer height". This saves the act of pulling out a tape and pencil to mark every low box on a project. Instead just place the hammer on the floor next to the stud you want to put a box on and set the box right on top of it. You already have the hammer in your hand so just nail it on. It's quick, accurate, easy and saves many redundant, unnecessary steps which saves time and time is $$$.
Next is in the same job description, nailing electrical boxes on the sides of studs. Generally at most you have 14.5" cavities to swing a hammer in. Deduct a few inches for the box itself and you start to notice every inch matters. This is another place these curve clawed hammers excel. They just aren't as long so you get a better swing in tight places.
The next one concerns the same electrical rough-in situation where you are stapling cables within stud and truss cavities. Just as mentioned in the last one you get a lot more swing in tight spots but also because the hammer has less weight and a smooth face there is a lot or control over damaging wires by over driving staples or sloppily scaring/smashing the cabled with miss-placed hammer blows (also framing hammer waffles can really damage the insulation on wires and cables). The curve of the claw also prevents catching wires on the back swing in stud cavities that have wires ran on both sides.
This is just a few I can think of I hope it helps give some nice contrast to the subject and is in no way, shape or form intended to be anything but and addition to the the great content you've provided. Thanks. :)
I've got a 20 yr old, wood handled, Craftsman Curved Claw I bought for my work as an Electrical helper & agree with the tight spot scenarios you commonly come across. Another thing I love about mine is it's got a little V-notch cut into one of the fork ends that really works well for pulling wire staples.
@@Grinlathak I've seen the V notch ones, I honestly had no idea they are good for staples. Totally cool! :)
@@Grinlathak Lifetime carpenter and general remodeler here. That little v-notch is handier than heck, but sometimes I wish there was one on both claw sides.
@@peehandshihtzu Oh yeah, works for even tighter spaces or wires the original Sparky/helper nailed down too tight you just slip one of the V-notch forks under one of the staple ends and work it out enough to slip one fork in between the wire and the staple to yank it right out with the leverage advantage of the curve claw. Makes an easier job of it even for those decades old damp basement or crawl space floor joists that swell up around the staples & don't want to give em up.
@@P_RO_ Having that second angle of approach would definitely have been handy on some jobs. Sometimes that one angle of approach just don't work so well as it would if you could approach from the other way. Especially around duct work.
I own both and have used both throughout my career in the construction industry. Both have their place along with the 12 other hammers I own.
Strait
Curved claw hammers up to 16oz are for finish carpentry and New tradesmen. A new guy can not swing a straight claw accurately. A straight claw is also dangerous. The hammer can hit someone behind him on the backswing, or bounce into his own head or miss and swing into his hand or leg.
A curved claw is safer, generally smaller and more accurate for beginners. A nail pick is for picking nails out as the head is usually buried anyway. Framers and builders use long handle straight claw hammers. Weight doesn’t matter because a titanium hammer half the weight of a solid hammer bits the nail just as hard.
I own a framing company 30yrs and 3 crews… don’t use a straight claw if your not experienced.
This is a good point. I can see the accidental release on the back swing being a risk with new people for sure.
It's definitely true for me. Swung a hammer long ago, good accuracy, plenty of strength. Now, I only need to drive a nail rarely and it is exactly as you say. I was driving 3" cut nails into block and, after a surprisingly few number of swings, I wouldn't have the control and it was just from not having the strength anymore. Same hammer, same brain, but weak flabby arm. You're bang on with your comment.
@@ef2b In my seventies now and put the old 21 oz. in bucket now and carry 16 oz. framer in bag. Just more accurate and less tiresome, especially on full day.
Ouch, if you bounce a hammer into your head you should have your hammer taken away, permanently.
@@toriless If that were how things were decided, 99% of people would never get to continue in any manual trade they start learning, and the other 1% would be less wise/cautious for happening to have excess good luck
I been using a Claw Hammer for Years & didn't even know there were different types of Hammers. But given your explanation of The Rip Hammer I might add that to my tool box. Since with both it really depends on how much of an experienced DIYer you are to use the Rip Hammer to it's fullest effect.👷🏾♂️
You won’t regret it, W! It’s like gaining a super power when you tackle demo work 😁
As a DIYer, I prefer the rip claw for every task. It's _especially_ better at pulling nails, contrary to HC's opinion. You might think the curved hammer does great until the day you need to pull a nail longer than the travel distance of the curve. Try propping a piece of wood under your hammer while nail-pulling someday, and you'll appreciate how much better the rip-claw is!
Whilw propping the curved claw, I find myself needing props of different thicknesses, and/or to keep changing the angle and dealing with the awkwardness of keeping the hammer in a straight line while pulling it and also the inconsistency of hour much leverage you get at each position of the propping board, because the forces against the hammer change depending on which part of the hammer hits the prop.
With a rip claw, I get consistent leverage and a steady, straight motion no matter where the hammer lands on the prop board, because the surface is so consistent across the board.
79 Years old and often wondered what the straight claw hammer was for...lol Done a lot of around the house work, remodeling, built 24x32 garage/workshop, chicken coops decks, etc with a curved claw hammer my daddy gave me, now 100 years old with replaced wooden handle.
Love your videos Honest Carpenter.
At age 12 at our new house job site (my dad was his own general contractor) during the rough framing phase all the carpenters had rip claws, of course, and I wanted to fit in with them. My usual job was to pick up dropped nails and straighten the bent ones for my dad to use after the carpenters left for the day. (Yes, he was a cheepskape.) I bought my own rip claw hammer (16oz) and was proud to use it after being assigned to install the hurricane clamps to the tops of all the newly framed exterior walls. I am 63 years old now, and still have and use that hammer! Fond memories.
I lose tools monthly
I have always referred to the "rip claw" as a framing hammer.
I use both types, both at 16oz. I also prefer to use a large wonderbar along with either hammer to do demo
I enjoy learning this kind of detail and function. I’ve used my Dad’s curved claw hammer for over 30 years…now is a good time to get a straight claw. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos.
Thanks for watching, Jan! It’s really best to have both-never know when one might apply to a job more than the other. Rips are just the go-to for job site work 🙂
I actually got 2 hammers. A heavier straight claw hammer for demo work and a lighter curved claw. Honestly, the claw hasn't been a major factor so much as the weights, but this is all good to know.
It seems like every time I've used a curved claw hammer I run into situations where it just can't do the job.
@@worganyos Hardy Boys: The Case of the Cursed Hammer!
I've learned so much from your channel. My father was never really handy but my grandfather was. I inherited a lot of his tools but don't know what they're used for. I'm a homeowner, now, and your channel has explained a lot. Thank you so much
I have both my fathers straight eastwing hammers, they're are over 65 years old and still in excellent shape.
Amazing, Dalton!
That’s because they were *made in America!!*
I love those hammers, unfortunately they aren't very forgiving to ones elbow with day to day use.
Got my first one in 1972...still have it!
Estwing hammers last forever.
I use my grandpa's curved claw because I can't tell you how many nails he made me straighten with it after pulling em out of a piece of wood. I just don't demo enough to invest in a rip claw... And I like remembering my grandpa when using certain woodworking tools.
I understand that sentiment. As primarily a gardener, I inherited (via my grandmother) my grandfather's spade and fork. These were forged in Sheffield, England - the type of indestructable tool you simply cannot buy nowdays. (Not even the pricey modern "Made in England" tools are the same grade). I moved overseas and left them at my Mother's with the intent to take them one day, probably remove and replace the handles to fit them into my luggage. While I was gone, she sold them both at a garage sale for $5 each... 🤬🤦♂️
so, grandpa is a cheapskate.
@@toriless no. Grandpa lived through the depression.
Spent a couple of years worth of weekends with Habitat for Humanity. Very quickly settled on a 20 oz Vaughn rip claw with a smooth head. I lusted after the steely good looks of an Estwing, but too many pros warned against elbow damage.
Lifetime carpenter and that's my favorite framer. Some fiberglass handles fray, chip, or crack but not Vaughn. Perfect balance, best steel and hear treatment. Vaughn's made that exact hammer for over 50 years, mine about 30 years old. No need to change anything when you get it right!
@@P_RO_ Love my Vaughn woodies. Especially the 16 oz. octagon handle.
I live in the UK an in 1983 as an electrician I treated myself to the Goldwing electrician hammer design. It had a longer nose and the claw part was designed to help lift floor boards. It's still with me today. A nice hammer
I love how you explained this especially to those Do it yourselfers. As a union carpenter we are recommending ppl buy a martinez or stilleto but I would never recommend something with such a high price tag for diy which is why I appreciated this video
I'm a wood handled guy myself. The 999 20 oz. Vaughan & the 19 oz. Vaughan cover my needs well. I still own a half dozen or so various Estwings although after tendinitis & an ulnar nerve problem I almost never use them. Even for most demo, an assortment of bars and a 2# drilling hammer up to my 8# single jack are usually faster.
I've tried the Tibone stiletto and it was pretty nice, alot of guys in my are swear by them, although I still prefer the two Vaughans. The 14 oz. Wood handled stiletto was pretty nice too, but I like that modest "knock down" power that the 19/20 oz. Provide. I haven't tried the Martinez, though I heard it was a bit "clubby" & less balanced than its' Chinese Predecessor.
What do you guys like?
@@adamjames1375 the martinez is top heavy and for rough carpentry and form building that is actually a great advantage in my opinion. Drives nails in pretty easy. I know a lot of guys who swear by the stilleto and others who swear by the martinez. Both are great hammers but with the stilleto there is some disadvantages when it to comes to the head. It is mainly titanium which scratches easier and it’s one solid piece attached to the handle. If the claws break you will be buying a brand new hammer. The martinez is a titanium handle with a steel head and it’s replaceable. Both have a great nail puller on the side and both have magnetic tips to set nails in areas tough to reach. Both are roughly about 16oz making them lighter on your bags.
@@395glen I'd like to give the Martinez a try. I haven't seen them sold anywhere locally and haven't found a buddy with one to try.(I almost exclusively work alone) I've just been really happy with my wood Vaughans & prefer them to the Tibones I've tried. I nearly always run with the 999 20 oz.The side nail puller, steel head & replaceable grip are compelling features though. How do you feel the reverb/shock is in the Martinez compared to wood?
If you're spending all day pulling nails out of a 2x4, the curved claw will give you better leverage. But for basically everything else, rip claw all the way. My go-to hammer for concrete formwork is the 28 oz estwing with a waffle head. Despite its high weight, it is incredibly well balanced and moves heavy materials like 4x6's or shores with much less effort required than a lighter hammer. Just don't hit your fingers with it.
I installed phone systems from 1981 to 1996. My first employer hired me & another guy, both of us just out of trade school. He went to a big box hardware store & bought the cheapest tools for us to use. My 150 pound partner broke the curved claw hammer when pulling a nail & I broke a jaw off some side cutters when cutting some solid 12 gauge copper for a grounding wire. When we got back to the shop I went into the bosses office & laid both broken tools on his desk. He asked how they broke, I told him. He went to Graybar & bought us some Klein tools - they never broke.
There’s a special place in hell for professionals who buy cheap tools.
@@monkeygraborange Buy the best and your grandkids will thank you.
I took a couple of construction class at my local community college, just to be more informed about how to do repairs AND TO UNDERSTAND more about contractor work. It was great. We were required to buy a framing hammer and it has been a great change to my tool box. Great video.
I like my rip claw with side nail pull!!!
My treasured GO-TO is my 20 oz smooth-face, rip-claw Estwing (steel is grey-painted rather than chromed with the blue polymer handle). It has been an extension of my right hand (and a few times my left hand) for nearly 40 years--first on the job as a long-time carpet layer nailing tack strip into concrete, etc., then lots of construction and DESTRUCTION as a homeowner and also helping others through some men's ministry work. It's every bit as versatile as Ethan says, in my opinion. Anyway, God bless all of you. I enjoyed reading many of the other comments.
In Europe we often use a different type of hammer called a (in Denmark) "lægtehammer" or European style carpenter hammer. It has a pointy claw and a short normal claw. Works for demolition, nails, "parking" your hammer (just slam it into a piece of wood, like an icepick), dragging a piece of wood and old stories of people saving themselves falling from roofs by using the pick (never seen it myself).
They use a similar hammer in Germany. In Holland, they use claw hammers much like in the US. However, in my experience, German and probably Danish houses are primarily masonry. The roof framing is wood, but it is not stick built like in the US. They use beams and infill slats. Thus, the hammers have more limited use.
An Estwing 24 oz hammer has a very long lever arm and provides significant force when framing with conventional nails. Plus, the handle is 16" long, the standard length of the stud spacing. You can use the hammer for a spacing gauge. Nowadays, US carpenters use nail guns and WAY TOO MANY nails. Thus, like the Honest Carpenter above, they don't use real framing squares or long handled hammers.
For that, they are effective with the tools that are common nowadays. Not 40 years ago when I started carpentry.
BTW, I never caught myself from falling by using the straight claws. But I DID use it to pull myself up off the wall and over the eave of a house and onto the roof of a house we were framing. I reached up over the overhang, drove the claws into the sheeting and pulled myself up with one hand. [I was kind of mad at the time and following a guy up the structure. Had a great effect on him.]
In Denmark, not in Europe. You know well that the (stupid) EU alone is 26 countries, each with it own construction style and tradition. What you often use in DK may not be common in Spain or Switzerland.
Latthammer in Germany - good Company is Peddinghaus for this
@@HippasosofMetapontum Lillehammer in Norway.
@@HippasosofMetapontum de Haus vhere de peddling is happen
Vaughn, fiberglass, rip hammer has been my “right hand man” for 31+ years and counting! Stay clear of any steel shafted hammer, your elbow will thank you for it!
Agreed!
Awesome Video.
I am a single 47 yr old woman, living in India about to buy a hammer for the first time in her life from Amazon.
Ur video is so clear n simple that it made me feel almost confident about becoming a handyman, atleast around my own house(i wish, but i cant..too late n too old for that.)But ur video is great. Thanks a lot.
I work in Rockford, IL and only realized last year that Estwing is ours. Finally, something Rockford can be proud of!
We built our own home as a family back in the day. Not a fan of the curved claw hammers unless you're trying not to damage stuff while pulling nails. Even then, the travel when pulling long nails is short and you'll have to have an extra 2x4 to give yourself some travel. Props to the vid!
A recall seeing my first straight claw framing hammer in the UK around 35-40 years ago. At that time nearly 100% of hammers were of the curved claw type. This is principally because very little construction in the UK back then (or now) is timber-framed. Framing was only used on roofs or internal partitions. I use both straight and curved claw hammers but my default will always be curved. Much easier to extract nails and better leverage. In your video, where you're trying to separate two pieces of timber with the curved claws (and failing) the trick is to wield the hammer in a more downward direction. Very easy with some practice!
Yeah, I notice brickwork in nearly every British film or video; and I watch a lot. Lots of mold in the bathrooms and lofts, too.
I have one of each but never really knew which one was better for what function. Thanks, Ethan, for clearing that up for me!
🤗 THANKS ETHAN FOR EXPLAINING 👍
A 22 oz Eswing was one of the first purchases when I started 👍 and I still use it over 45 yrs later 😍😍😍
As a landlord/property manager, I already have flat bars in multiple sizes, cats paw, and a wrecking bar, so since I often don't have scrap to shield the surface (usually use a putty knife), the curved claw offers a different shape and pulling leverage for those of us weaklings who don't do this daily.
I do the same thing with the putting knive to protect the serface. I use my cats paw as fulcrum of the lever to pull out stubborn nails where the service damage is not important!!
Honestly, I have both versions in my shop. 90% of the time, the hammer I end up using is the one I grabbed first.
For demo work, such as removing trim, I would never use JUST a hammer,,, Get a good flat bar or pry bar set so you can minimize damage to things like drywall if you aren't intending to change out drywall too.. Then the curved hammer also comes in handy at that point to remove the old trim nails because it gives much better leverage.
And yes, the heavier hammer (not too heavy) is great for pounding in large nails, and I wouldn't use my curved hammer for that if they were both sitting side by side. However, if the curved hammer was within reaching distance, I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
Pry bars are pretty inexpensive too. I have a pair. Also a crowbar, which I rarely need. If you can't get it out with two pry bars then use may need one.
Thank you for such great information. Since I didn't get to grow up with this information, I've literally been laughed out of multiple hardware stores. Now that I have been watching your videos for about a year, I save money and can finally get things done.
Very informational video. I learned to use the 20 oz. framing hammer in carpenter school.
Wow, what a great video. I never even knew that! Love your tool preferences and I love the information. Have a great and wonderful day! You deserve everything that is great! Just wondering, could you make a video about sanding with your hands, and sanding with water?
Thank you
I think the most misunderstood aspect of a hammer is hammer length. I use an 18" wooden handle with a 19oz Vaughan head. Wish it was 16 or 14oz. Lighter definitely makes it easier to command the swing with speed. In my opinion a hammer is not a pry bar.
As a new home owner, I was looking trough different videos of different tools needed and this was very informative. I have small curved hammer, but I was looking for something a bit bigger and looks like I will get 16pz rip claw for outside work. Thanks for informative video.
Thanks again for your information and expertise! I’m making a Lowe’s run this morning, now I will be adding one of these to my shopping list.
Great advice. In the past 20 years I've done most everything from demo and framing to custom furniture building. I find a 16oz straight claw works well for almost all applications and it's my go to hammer. I used a 20oz when I worked on a framing crew, and personally I didn't need anything heavier. I have an old 12oz that was my grandfathers I use it around the house. It's fine for light work, but I wouldn't recommend anything lighter and a 16oz is more versatile.
Two rip claw framing hammers in my tool box - one smooth, one waffle cut, depending on if I feel the need to avoid the crinkles in addition to a dimple in the surface. I DO have a small finish curved claw when I need to do delicate finish nailing. Just a DIYer / homeowner.
That’s a great combo/approach, Token!
I have enough tools I need several boxes. I put the deadblows, prybars, framing hammer into one and other tools into another. I also have one for plumbing jobs. strap wrench, teflon tape, etc. and another just with tools for electrical work, screwdriver, bits, a wire nuts, wire cutters, pliers, etc. I also have a case for organizing all my (non hole saw) drill bits. The hole saw ones are in an ammo case.
Your videos are super helpful. I'm an older do it yourself lady. Never had anyone to teach me. I learn so much. And I believe you are the honest carpenter which makes your teaching even more valuable and useful👍
Thank you, Susan! I’m really glad they’re helpful 😄
Thank you! I had questions about curved vs straight claw and 16 or 20 oz, and your video answered it all. Bought the Estwing from your link!
Even if both hammers weight the same, the straight claw will deliver more force on impact because of its shape. Why? Because when the hammer impacts the nail, etc. all of the momentum is directly behind the head and all of the force is concentrated on impact, kind of like an arrow or a train making impact. With a curved claw, upon impact, the weight that is below the nail will continue with its momentum, which is below the nail; not driving it into the nail. Theoretically, I suppose then, since curved claws cause for force to shift upwards upon impact, curved claws are less accurate ;) I like to imagine a rreeaalllyy exaggerated curved claw that was as long as the handle, which is silly, but better illustrates the difficulty of having the mass of the hammer shifted below the head. HTH. Thanks and, again, great video!
I bought the Martinez M4 with the Titanium Head and it’s everything I hoped it would be. Yes it’s expensive and probably not necessary but it’s fkin awesome no question.
I haven’t been able to shell out for one yet, J H. But I want to 😅
@@TheHonestCarpenter I’ll keep watching these videos man. Martinez should send you some to review. 🤙
Titanium head? What will they think of next. I think I might be afraid to mar that up!
@@TheHonestCarpenter I have the M1 steel head and its awesome. Ive been swinging hammer for over 20 years and have been through a bunch of them... tops the Stiletto, Vaughn s2, California framer, Douglas, Estwing, Dalluge. Some were nice hammers but didn't last, some last but didn't feel great. Treat yourself to one
I've always loved working with wood and also do a lot of house renovations, but never had a rip claw hammer. I've always resorted to using a flat crow bar for ripping wood out. Having watched your vid I'm going to invest in a rip claw hammer, which I can plainly see will save me time changing tools. Thanks a bundle for that. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
Spot on advice. I love your channel and look forward to the next installment. Keep up the good work.
As a carpenter and contractor myself, I have a variety of hammers. Including both the two primarily mentioned in this video. As indicated they both serve a variety of functions. I, however, find myself reaching for my curve claw hammer on most jobs. Particularly when working with trim. Trim is typically a more delicate job and requires a finesse that a clunky rip claw lacks. That being said, I can definitely see why you might prefer a rip claw.
They make lighter ones too.
Physics-wise, pushing the weight of the claw farther out toward the head makes it more effective at using the hammer's mass to deliver an impact (1/2 mv^2). Of course it doesn't come for free, because you have to accelerate that higher head mass, but for the same final hammer head speed, you get a higher impact.
That is the bonus of the all-steel Estwing. ALL the weight is in the nailing surface.
The classic Estwing has a rounded face. This helps keep the nail heads from bending as you drive them. New ones - albeit made in America - have a flat face. This all but guarantees that you will bend the nail head unless the shank of the handle is exactly parallel with the face of the lumber and the nail head. Which means, generally, never. End result -- more bent nails.
Great explanation. I think so often that people use what their father used, and if they only used what they inherited from a none carpenter, that thought process traveled down the line. I had used a Milwaukee Nail Puller with the Dimpler tool for a few years, and it works beautifully for removing a lot of nails, especially when there are a bunch of old nails left when removing old drywall when they used nails from fifty years ago. Cheers!
This info is exactly was I was looking for, amazing vid!
I’m sure all the hammers that were recently stolen from Home Depot are of the framing variety…ya know so they can continue their smash and grabs
As always, very useful information. Thank you.
Wow, I wouldn't even have looked for the difference unless it was pointed out. I really appreciate how no detail is too small to be discussed on this channel!
I worked for my granddad during the summer in the 60s. He was a GC. His brother brought an Estwing to work one day and we ooh’d and awe’d. He basically did finish work with it. He loved that hammer and wouldn’t let anyone else use it. He was already in his 60s when he was using it.
So very glad to have found you. Great stuff!
Thanks and congrats on over 500,000 subs!!
Turns out I have one of each. Never realized how much different they are. I had a curved claw hammer with a wooden handle and wanted a second hammer that was more sturdy with a steel handle. Thanks for finally giving me justification for buying the second hammer. Great information to know.
Never gave it much thought. Thanks for the explanation.
Thanks for the info like your program you honest carpenter looking forward to more videos have a good day
Great comparison between the two types of hammers. Thanks.
Well done. Thank you. I inherited my dad’s tools (farmer) and now that I have arthritis I wish the rip claw and the standard were 16s. My tiny hands/arms hurt to grip and swing the heavier ones, but they do get the job done fast.
Excellent review and advice, thank you.
I have always wondered.. respect for the science behind these reasons. Awesome video bro. Novices like me need these videos
Demolishing my old iron shed, the curved claw was fantastic at grabbing and ripping out nails holding the iron. No leverage required if the swing was on point. Still falls under removal of nails I suppose, but a little different. Also, curved claw is also good for ripping out star pickets for holding the framing for concrete. Thanks for the video.
Great video. I've been using a prybar and a curve claw for a while now on demo. Never even thought about switching to a rip claw.
Ah thanks Ethan. Look forward to seeing your video with what you keep in your tool bag. Take care as always from South Africa
Thank you, really important information for an amateur
Great advice! And I’ve been an amateur carpenter for 59 years.
Another great video. Lots of useful insights. Thanks
I have a couple of old Blue Grass 16 oz. claw hammers with wood octagon handles that I absolutely love to use for cabinet and finish work but my all around favorite is a Vaughan 16 oz. Cali. framer style rip claw with a large smooth face with wood handle. It just feels perfect. Alot of people think that a hammer is just a hammer 🔨 and they are all the same lol.
My couple years of construction started with a Vaughn wooden handled, I think 22 Oz. hammer we found in the weeds at one job. We did a fire remodel later and that curved wooden handle made the job a pure pleasure tearing out the old walls. I polished that thing up, regrooved the waffle head, repainted the handle...it was sweet! Then I lost it in a job change...sure miss that thing. But I bought a new one to replace it. I don't do construction any more, but I am prepared should the need arise...
Thanks for sharing those tips!
When I became a carpenter's apprentice in November 1970 (after a disastrous third year in college after transferring from junior college to real world university--and signing up for three chem's, physics, calculus, and German--no guidance counseling at all), I started out with an old 16 oz. curved claw, a cloth nail apron, and an old painters' inside rule that my father gave me. It took me weeks to save up for a 22oz. Estwing like the one my foreman used, and it took me even more weeks/months to learn the use of it, but I would never frame with anything else. The nicest old guy on the job who really taught me a lot was an old carpenter named Henry. He had a thirteen ounce curved claw that he used for everything--and he could do anything on the job--including framing. I loved that old guy, but I couldn't frame with that tiny hammer. With that 22 oz. Estwing, you could DRIVE nails, not just try to persuade them to enter the wood. My foreman, who was a hoss and dropped out of high school at age 14 to support his family, could set and drive home 16's with two swings. It took three for me. I love hammers. I bet I own more than fifty hammers--of all types, from carpenter's to mechanic's to mauls and sledges. I've even got a complete set of new old stock Blue Grass hammers that I intentionally never used, and an original set of Plumb fiberglass handle hammers of all sizes, including a roofer's hatchet and a complete set of ball peens. I remember, back in the seventies, when you could just walk into Southside Hardware and buy any of this stuff right off the shelf. Those days are pretty much gone. And the use of the hammer is becoming something of a lost art. Even I myself now use pneumatics for trim--and that used to be a sacrilege to me.
I was just looking to upgrade from my crappy Stanley curved claw hammer to a 16 oz Estwing rip claw when I came across this video. Definitely going for it!
Great video 👍🏻. I just picked up the 16oz Dewalt rip claw hammer. Beautiful piece of work.
The Estwing E20S (leather handle) is the first hammer I ever bought and I was 12 years old (in '76.) I still have that hammer and use it to this day. I bought it with my very first paid carpentry job working with my uncle. I started with him when I was 10, but did not get paid until I was 12. It was a 2 week entire house casing and trim job. I bought it as a birthday present to myself. I use it for small framing and trim work.
I also have two 16 oz. Plumb's -- one fiberglass and one wooden handled -- that I use for trim work.
My "go to" hammer is my 14oz Stilletto #2 of 10 original prototype that Mark Martinez sent to me for use and evaluation in 1999. It is my most used hammer. Second is my Hart 21oz. Woody, smooth-faced, framing hammer.
Thank you for explaining this - appreciate it!
Thanks for the excellent explanation!
Thank you! I always use the common hammer came with a cheap set, and now I know why it's so inconvenient to pull nails..
Wow I’ve never seen the sideways pulling technique thank you for the tips especially for the sliding the thin piece of wood to pull as well
General carpenter, remodeler and woodworker of more than 30 years, here. I keep a 10-12 oz. curve claw, 16 oz. curve claw, and a 20-22 oz. straight claw. Different tools for different uses. When I did mostly remodeling, I used a 16 oz. curve claw fiberglass Plumb. I could drive 6d finish nails w/out leaving turkey tracks (often even set them if the material was soft enough) and sink 16ds in 2 or 3 hits. I found the capacity for nail pullng advantageous (especially for homeowner safety, no bear traps for kids to find) and would always have pry, crow, and wrecking bars available for heavy demolition.
In the 80s, my father (at the time a cabinet maker for 50+ years) switched to one of those beautiful leather handled Eastwings and we’ve never looked back. The straight claw is easier to use, the straight-thru weight also adds heft and accuracy. Now I’ve got 3 of the newer blue handled Eastwings and they’re my choice hammers - although I probably have various weights and angles! 16oz is the perfect balance for most jobs, but a good 28/32oz is handy to drive in spikes when you’re framing!
The ease of a straight claw… don’t think my 26 year olds would know how to use a curved claw hammer! Lol
Great explanation video!
I have a 20 oz. rip claw and a 16 oz. curved claw. My main go to is the 20 oz. But, when I have a lot of stuff where I'm going to be driving 8 penny nails, I switch to the 16 oz.
Retired carpet and linoleum layer. Carried rip hammer in carpet box for nailing tack strip I pre cut my tack strip the rip claws worked great for trimming strip that was a little long. Carried a claw hammer in my linoleum box for pulling nails when Removing base. I always filled a second claw in one of the claws for pulling underlayment staples.
i have had a 16 oz curved claw for years and it worked fine hanging pictures. During our recent remodel we turned to a straight claw for demo and new construction
Thank you! Great video on an important topic
After nearly 50 years of heavy remodeling work on a number of my own buildings, I have several dozen hammers, but my go-to hammer for construction is a 16-ounce Stiletto titanium with milled face and axe style handle. They are expensive, but mine was a gift from a gal friend who correctly guessed that it was about the only type of hammer I didn’t already own.
Well done! Great explanation!
Thank you for the information. Peace and good fortune and good health to you and your family. ❤
When I was in my twenties and framing , roofs etc, and or working on a scaffold working on a building exterior before all the safety equipment they have today. I used a 20 oz eswing for framing and a 16 oz eswing for trim. More they once did I slip on a deck or roof and drive my estwing through the roof plywood to stop my self . I worked in upstate New York. We did not stop for the cold weather or snow.
What a beautiful hammer! That shiny one with the brown wood handle.
I like to learn, it’s why I watch these videos!
One of those questions that has always been in the back of my head but never bothered to google and was too embarrassed to ask.. thank you! Now I know
Excellent content as usual. Thanx Ethan
I grew up only using claw hammers and ball peen hammers. Didn't even know other kinds of hammers existed and when I started buying my own tools I just reached for what I knew and figured the other hammers were for some specialized use. Then when we decided we were going to start remodeling our house one room at a time we decided we were doing it ourselves. I grew up learning to fix and change old houses because we were poor and couldn't afford to just hire people but also my Pépère was retired and helped raise me and he was of the opinion that you had no business owning a home if you couldn't take care of it. One thing I had not done was install new solid hardwood floors. So I researched that and watched numerous installation videos and realized it just wasn't that hard so I went at it. It came out fabulous. One thing I learned when teaching myself how was that the first few and last few rows cannot be done with a flooring nailer because there's no room for it on one side and no room to swing the hammer down onto the actuator on the other. Everything I read said to use a framing hammer with a smooth face to drive the nails in. The extra weight helps drive the annoying amount of nails into those rows and the smooth face helps to make sure there is minimal damage if you miss. I got a 20oz framing hammer and was driving the nails in with just a few hits without much effort. I've not used any of the half dozen claw hammers hanging around my house since then. I've also bought a 20oz waffle faced hammer for driving nails when I don't care what a miss looks like because the waffle head grabs the nails and doesn't slide off.
I've got an 18 Oz standard claw, and a pair of smaller standard claw trim hammers all as gifts from grandparents and inherited from former roommates. The trim hammers come in handy when my kids want to help Dad out on a project. I could have really used a nice rip claw hammer when I was recovering pine sheathing boards from a cottage interior last month.
Always great info!