Nissan Titan Rear Brake Replacement (2004-2015)
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
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In this video I show the steps and procedures necessary to replace the rear brake pads and rotors on a Nissan titan. Use 2004 through 2015. If you have a Nissan Armada or Infiniti QX 56, these procedures will be the same as well. Overall the job is not too difficult and requires no special tools. However a piston compressor tool for the rear calipers maybe handy at times. However in this video I show you how to compress the piston when using A c clamp. Make sure to check the links below for great parts and prices that are shown in this video. I hope this video helps you out. If it does please like and subscribe. If you have any questions or comments feel free to leave something in the comment section. Thank you for watching
Parts used in this video--------------------------------------
Front and Rear brake kit:
amzn.to/2XliwoA
Rear Brake Kit:
amzn.to/2PgXnJw
Master Caliper Piston Compressor:
amzn.to/2IHfSW0
Don't forget to put caliper grease on the slides or your brakes might start locking up.
Hands down the Best how to videos, simple and straight to the point. I have a 04 titan and you’ve help me out a lot. Keep up the good work, it is greatly appreciate. Thank you!!
Great video, thank you. You showed me why my back inner pad wasn't fitting in the caliber lol,I was trying to put both outside pads on lol.
Thanks for all these videos. I recently bought a fixer-upper 2004 with a whole suite of (fixable) issues and your videos have been a godsend!
However I had to laugh at how easily everything comes off when you don't have to deal with rust :P
Thanks bro did this at my shop. I was to lazy to read the service manual
Aron great video once again, I do find them extremely useful! Question however, E-brake pad replacement and or adjusting when performing the rear brakes replacement. Not expensive to do but worthwhile with new rotors be installed. A tip and I'm assuming you know this but...however, remember that there is adjustment on the E-brake pedal inside the cab! This adjustment is quite easy to perform and can give you better E-brake pedal. But I found out, the hard way, that one should check this prior to pulling the rears apart. Sometimes a previous owner or shop has made this adjustment previously and the adjusting nut is "bottomed out". Back this nut "out", if need be, prior to performing the rear E-brake shoe adjustment or replacing. Hope this helps you...
Where is the adjuster location? I’m gonna be performing pads and rotors, but it’s in a2010 Armada. Does the armada have adjuster inside vehicle or is it on the ebrake assembly? Thanks in advance!
@@bugs2158 hi it's on the E brake pedal itself... You should see a 2-in threaded piece of stock with I believe a 10 mm nut on it and it's real easy to access, I believe I googled it and found it on UA-cam I would assume you should be able to find a picture/video of what I'm talking about but it's really easy to find
@@alkukla1933 thanks for answering back! Will look into it.
Thanks for the tutorial, clear and helpful instructions, time to do it myself
Subbed man. Crazy I got about the same rim and tire setup on mine. Have my first Titan, and Nissan. Have been driving chevys my whole life gotta say these Titans are pretty peppy. You have a nice one man, and you done an excellent job explaining everything. Thumbs up sir thank you.......gotta get me one of dem dair air ratchets I'm jealous haha
Nice! Ya those titans do got some good power. Very reliable as well. Thanks for the sub!
@@AaronHinesAuto yes sir. Is the gas mileage in these things a lil rough in these things or what!
For demonstration purposes only. Old brake pads had a lot of life left?
Is there no need to take the master cylinder cap off during this?
not if you just compress one side at a time
Did you jack up the rear axle with the floor jack directly on the differential case?
Great video! Thanks!!!
Great video
Aaron, first of all, love your vids. I’ve watched all your Titan vids, and they’ve actually helped out on a few questions I’ve had. I had a question that I can’t seem to find anywhere on the internet, but my Titan is throwing a P0500 code saying the VSS is malfunctioning, but nowhere can I find where this sensor actually is. No diagrams or anything. Any idea where to start looking?
thank you so much! im glad they help. and are there any sypmtoms? does your speedometer work? have you scanned the abs module for codes? are there any other lights on the dash on? pulled up the code using a service manual and nissan says these items could be at fault for causing those codes.
-Wheel speed sensor has failed
-CAN communication line is open or shorted
-ABS controller and Electric Unit
-Unified Meter and A/C Amp
Aaron Hines the speedometer & odometer aren’t working. Service engine/check engine light is on. ABS light as well as the parking brake light.
As far as symptoms other than those, the trans shifts feel sluggish, anything over about 2500rpm hard acceleration it jerks a couple times and cuts power(limp mode I’m guessing). And assuming it’s a five speed trans, sometimes it’ll shift all the way to the final gear when it should be in like 2nd or 3rd and then drops the rpms to close to idle(around 8-900)
No thin film of grease on the hardware or slider pins?
How do you loose the old one?
I Just bought 2006 Titan used. I noticed that on both rear rotors there is no brake pad wear on the inside of the rotors? Seems strange to me. I bet I need new calipers? And the parking brakes are all messed up. I hope the eccentric ring is okay.
What about hand break adjustment does it stay the same or needs a little adjustment?
Nice thabks
hey arron my calipers seem to not be held down by a 10 mm bolt? its just looks like a barrel straight in, got any hints?
Is it advisable to rectify the discs?
The torque to screw is 24 ? And how I know if my rotor need to be replaced? I installed new pad but I didn’t replace the rotor :(
Hi Aaron, I'm having a dilemma with my rear brakes on my 2010 Titan. When I'm driving I get a singing nose from the rear of the truck I can hear it with the back window down, it sounds like something dragging on a rotor. I've replaced the whole e-brake system and pads and rotors and I still have the same "singing" noise. I did everything exactly like your videos. Thoughts?
Hey dude, I’m having the same issue. Did you ever get a resolution to this issue of yours?
Hello, do you have a video on how to change the drum brakes (E brake or Parking Brake) in this vehicle?
Just did that yesterday, You'll more then likely need new rotors aswell
@@kthaanos1075 can you elaborate on what all you needed to complete the job and how it went?
@@LichaelMewis Okay for mine, the brake pads needed to be replaced both sides (Rear). You'll need a set of Brake Pads, Emergency as well, Assembly Kit also REAR PARKING BRAKE LEVER. The assembly kit does not have that part, very important. Remove tire, caliper, pads, rotor. My lever and springs and clips for the emergency brake were destroyed and the other side it was missing. (Thank you Canadian tire) Everything off. Assemble the new rear emergency breaking in the housing(the springs and gears will be in the assembly kit) Don't forget the lever. It will be a little difficult, have someone with you for help. then the actual brake pads. Here is where it gets really frustrating. Corrosion build up in the rotor will more then likely not fit on and you will have to buy new ones. Or just completely remove the emergency brake, your truck will be fine.
I have been told that you hafta open the bleeder valve on the caliper to prevent damage to the ABS hydraulic sensor. Is that correct?
Wouldn’t you need to bleed the breaks after replacing the rotor and pads? Last time I changed mine they felt spongey afterwards.
And I love your videos , very clear and precise commentary.
No. You might have opened the bleeder valve on accident and that's what would've caused your brakes to feel spongey. Then you would need to bleed your brakes for sure. It's more common than you think since a lot of cars/trucks/vans have the same bolt size for the bleeder valve and screw that releases the calipers.
Dean Lehec
When i changed pads, I always "bleed my brakes"...Start w/ farthest from "master cylinder" 1st and work your way to....driver's side front should be last...Plenty of vids on how to do it and make a "one-man bleeder bottle"....Check out "Chris Fixx" vids on how to make one...BUt dont worry, my bud has a 2005 Armada...Still has the factory fluid in it.....Imagine how nasty and filthy it is......Dollar tree sells Dot 3 for a $1.00.....Not that cost-prohibitive.....
Hey brother. The Armada upgrade wont work with my 17" after market wheels. The bigger calipers wont clear the wheels. So I purchased new EBC GD Series slotted and dimpled rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff Pads. Timpken, front Left and Right wheel hub assembly. Control arms and tie rods. These are all bolt on parts for my 05, stock fitment. While at all of this I want to replace the original front calipers. What brand and or part number semi loaded( to include brackets and hardware) calipers do you recommend? I don't know who manufactures O'Reillys brand BrakeBest calipers. Not sure if going with those would be an upgrade? What ever your thought are would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Mine NEVER come off that easily. My calipers look like shyt too. And mine is a 2014! I don’t get it!
Just thought i would ask, i have fluid leaking to my rims and tire...prior to the leak, there was loss of brake control and missing brake fluid in the reservoir...what can that possibly be?
Either a bad caliper or leaking break hose
Cool, thanks!
For some reason the vid always stops at 47s in. It doesnt resume.
Aaron,In your opinion, can I use rotors that fit a 2011 Titan ( front rotor diameter 13.8") on my 2005 Titan XE 2WD? The rotors on my 2005 are 12.6" diameter. Do you think 2011 titan rotors would bolt on to the 2005 titans? I also just say the sticker in my rear axels that states , my axel gear ration is a 2.937. I always thought ,from my VIN at least I had a 3.36 rear gear ration. Can I still tow up to 8,000 if needed? thank again for all of the great information!
If you were refuring to the front rotors, You cannot do that because of the size of the hub is different. The rotors will not bolts up to your hub. If you use rotors from a 2007 Nissan armada the rotors will be larger however the hub will be the same diameter as your 2005 Nissan. You also need to use brackets for the caliper from a 2007 Nissan armada as well your stock loans won’t work. I have seen many issues with the door jam sticker labeling the incorrect gear ratio size. Perfect example is a 2008 Nissan titan my company owns. Door on the sticker says it has 3.36 gears. The tag on the differential says 2.93. The sticker or tag on the differential is always correct.
Sent to PayPa!!l! I did upgraded to several top rated rotors and pads over the years. Such as Nissan OEM, DBA, Power Stop, Hawk, Centric, Akebono and Now EBC Sport rotors and their Yellow Stuff brake pads. The EBC pads and rotors improved braking by probably 40 % over the rest. The other pads sucked and rotors warped. The EBC Stuff is the best I've found for this truck. I've also added stainless steel brake lines. These trucks, need in my opinion, a larger diameter front rotor. So by going with a 07 Nissan Armada 2WD front rotor. Will fit my (05, 2WD) Titan front hub and bolt pattern and give it an additional 1 inch diameter rotor? I will then need to purchase 2 new rotor brackets to accommodate the new size rotors? I take it that the new rotor brackets that fit the 07 Armada will bolt up to my 05 Titan using my existing bolts? Regarding the rear axel gear ration. I crawled under my truck and read the sticker on the diff. It does state it has a 2.937:1 gear ratio. If I were to tow, on occasion up to say 8,000 lbs., a bit over its recommended limit. Would that put the transition under more stress being the rear axel has less mechanical advantage as say the 3.36 gear ratio? Thanks for the information
When you say caliper brackets will be needed from the Armada. Nissan calls them "Carrier" - Nissan oem 07 to 08 Armada part number(41014-ZC60A) These hold the brake pads in place, with I believe, a 21mm bolt?Then the caliper goes over the carrier, containing the pads. This Armada "Carrier" should then bolt on to my 05 Titan using the Titan mounting bolts? Left and right side respectively
thanks man! i really appreciate it a ton! i have heard great things about those EBC Sport rotors. been looking into getting a set of an 04 kc. In 2006 it appears Nissan figured out that the Titan/Armada brakes sucked and they decided to fix the Armada first. When they did this however, they didn’t upgrade the hub assembly. What they did was the upgrade you are reading about right now. So if you search 2006 Armada rotors you will find that there are two options available. One option is for the Bosch 320mm caliper (same as 2005 Titan) and the other is for the 350mm Akebono caliper. Since they didn’t upgrade the hub this is the rotor you need to do a direct bolt up upgrade for the early model Titans. you will also need new calipers as the new calipers are larger for the larger rotor. if you purchase centric calipers, they come with the correct brackets for those rotors, (semi-loaded) p/n 141.42146 and 141.42145.
www.amazon.com/Centric-141-42146-Front-Brake-Caliper/dp/B001KO2ONG
www.amazon.com/Centric-141-42145-Loaded-Friction-Caliper/dp/B001KO6L94/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=141.42145&qid=1551295832&s=automotive&sr=1-1
hope this helps!! and thanks again!
So it looks like I cant stay with with the larger EBC, rotors that will NOT warp. Those rotors and their Yellow Stuff pads are the best there is in my opinion . Your saying the only option to go larger, diameter rotor, is with the Akebono 350mm rotor. Then go with the Centric (semi-loaded) p/n 141.42146 and 141.42145 calipers that come with the Brackets/Carrier. The Yellow stuff pads I bought are still in good shape but probably wont work with the new Armada calipers? Can I use my existing mounting Bolts for the new Brackets? Thanks again for the information
What ratchet is that? Review?
Milwaukee
😂