$420 100AH LiFePO4 Build - BatteryHookup.com Modules - Super Easy Assembly! COMPLETE DIY GUIDE!
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- Опубліковано 3 сер 2024
- I purchased these modules AT COST, I did not get them for a discount. The thoughts of this video are my own personal opinion. This is NOT a sponsored video.
This project has been in the works for months and I am super happy with how it turned out! These BatteryHookup.com LiFePO4 100ah modules are SUPER EASY to work and assemble. I got 105ah of capacity during my testing! For only $420 dollars you can have 1280wh or 100ah+ of battery storage!
Check out the parts list and wiring diagram HERE on my website:
jasonoid.com/diy100ahlifepo4/
SAVE 5% on your BatteryHookup.com order by using my DISCOUNT CODE: JASONOID
These modules are distributed LOCALLY in the USA, you can find these LiFePO4 modules HERE:
batteryhookup.com/products/ne...
GADGETS Used in the Video:
Treva DC powered Fan: amzn.to/39TiA7v
MiBoxer C4 Battery Charger: amzn.to/3orqZHt
5521mm to 12V Socket Adapter Cable: amzn.to/3mfKsIv
BESTEK 300Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter: amzn.to/3A1iqFx
XTAR EU4S charger should be available soon...
The use of Amazon affiliate links provide a small commission for me when you use them. Thanks for supporting my channel content and allowing me to do future comparison videos! More videos coming soon!
Video Timestamps:
Battery Overview: (0:00)
What Can it Power?: (2:01)
Capacity Testing the Cells: (5:26)
Low Temp Cutt-off / Over Voltage Tests: (6:38)
How to Charge this Battery: (7:18)
Pricing and BMS Options: (10:03)
HOW TO BUILD THE BATTERY: (11:41)
Mounting the BMS/Fuse Block: (13:35)
Drilling Holes for the Outputs: (17:21)
Wiring up the Battery: (18:46)
Activating the BMS: (23:21) - Наука та технологія
FYI....THESE MODULES WILL BE BACK IN STOCK IN 1 TO 2 MONTHS
Check out the parts list and wiring diagram HERE on my website:
jasonoid.com/diy100ahlifepo4/
Did you notice the gauge of the wires on the battery was 14, and each only had 5, therefore only safe to charge/pull 75A? Not the 100A as stated? Because I bought these after the video and my system needs to pull 80A for my tiny home. Not sure what to do now. Great video though
@@gradybrill3203 mine are labeled 12awg
@@Jasonoid lmao mine are labeled 14. How sad.
They told me through email right now that they did an 100amp discharge test to make sure it was safe. But does that test apply when my solar will be constantly feeding the battery all day, and the ac draining it thus going far over 100 amps in a day. Not sure its safe
Do you have any alternative modules you can recommend? Looking to get the project started! Thanks again for everything you do on this channel!
Finally! It's a pleasure to get this info from someone who is doing it right and not cutting corners. Thanks!!
It's funny. I just picked up a kit from them. They are located in PA, about 45 min from me. I felt like a little kid in their warehouse. So much cool stuff. They are simply amazing and warm humans. Thank you for the video, just in time. Great work.
I've had great experiences with them over the phone, lucky you live close!
Wow, this is rather comprehensive. I hope to gather the parts and start a build this spring. Thank you for your hard work
This is probably one of the best build reviews ive seen. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything thoroughly. Ive been drawing up a similar project, and this has given me some new ideas. Keep it up.
Thanks Gator, it was a super fun build! The battery has been super useful so far for running my 12v fridges while camping.
Out of all the diy build in yt, this is the best. So easy to understand. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
One of the best build videos for a portable power station I've ever seen. Thank you for providing these clear instructions!
I couldn't believe there werent any other videos using these cells! They are such a good deal!
@@Jasonoid - There is another video out there of someone talking about these cells, but they don't actually build a useful power station out of them. I agree they are an excellent value and one of the easiest options for building your own battery with. The build quality and clear instructions you demonstrate on the actual power station are just as impressive.
Appreciate the feedback, thanks Jason! I'll provide some more videos on the channel doing some more testing with these cells.
Cleanest build that I’ve seen so far. Great ideas, clear and precise presentation, and overall knowledgeable of products prompted an immediate like, comment and subscription with notification bell. Looking forward to your new videos as well as checking out your channel playlists.
Hey Dennis, thanks for the feedback! I'm sure youll enjoy some of my other channel videos, thanks for joining the Jasonoid crew!
Love it. I am also done with mine. I did have one of the cell unit short. I sent a picture to Battery hookup and they quickly sent me out another one. Great customer support. When I finish it I will sent you a picture.
They have been very responsive to my emails and calls. I love being able to call them. Send your picture to my email at jasonoidllc@gmail.com, i'd love to see it!
My brother is the tech guy in the family and he and I are planning on building a large system. This is great. It's given me a good idea of what I'm getting myself into. Great video
The modules are very easy to build a large system since they just bolt together. I plan to use these same modules to build a 7 to 10 killowatt backup battery system for my house.
Nice build video! Informative and current. - found it when searching for others who had the same batteries i bought - now i am moving my build more in this direction. thanks for sharing.
Glad I could help! It was a fun project and the battery has been super useful!
Jason I really like your system and you are a pro at this .Thank you for sharing
Thanks Steve!
I built a very similar box after I saw your previous build. 4x100ah prismatic cells squeezed perfectly into an MTM 50 cal box, along with a similar USB, voltmeter, anderson panel, and remote battery posts. I'm using it to power an Iceco JP50 in my daily driver, charging from a 100w panel on the roof. Really pleased with the whole setup, especially compared to the Orca cooler I've been keeping iced down for the past several years. Thanks to you for all your knowledge, I wouldn't have known I could build something like this without the info I got from your channel. Next, I'm graduating to 300ah lithium banks for the RV!
Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate it :) That would be an awesome project! 300AH!! These batteryhookup cells could easily be assembled into a 300ah pack!
Hey your other comment got blocked by UA-cam, try reposting it without the Amazon link.
😎 Awesome instructional video. To the point, And no waste of time! 🙏🏻 Thank you
I had no idea you built that other battery. Very Impressive work sir!😁🌟
This is V2 haha, much more simple to build :)
Too bad battery hook up doesn’t have for sale those batteries anymore and hasn’t had them for a very long time, that was a signature product for them, bad decision to stop carrying
The setup is really neat and professional! Nice job!
Thanks, it took some time to get those wires setup haha
@@Jasonoid Oh, I bet but the result is really good.
Very nice! Thanks for recommending this video!
Great video. I think this may very well be my next project Very detailed explanation on how you did everything. I'd like to see you do a full-on solar generator with a detailed description like you did in this video.
well thats very similar to this but just adding an inverter and charging system. I'm debating about building a 300ah version to power some fridges in case a long duration power outage.
Great video I plan on building a power "can" soon.
Love the newest box gonna be working on that right away
It's an awesome project!
Sweet. Thanks. Have already two sent of those batteries but was waiting to see your build before I did nine.
Awesome, good luck on your build!
how much room is left between the top of the batteries the the lowest point of the lid.
Not much space for anything else, probably an inch between the BMS and lid.
Wow...this is impressive.
Thanks Henderson, it's been very useful for my camping needs
Awesome video! Definitely trying this!
It's a great build! I actually had fun building it haha. Runs my 12v fridge forever!
@@Jasonoid main reason I'm researching power supplies. 12v fridge and possible heater are my main draws. Just recently came across your channel and it's great! Awesome content, keep it up 👍
Lots of options out there, more content on the way haha
Thank you for the video.
You're welcome :)
I made a powerbox 571Wh for only 200€
Got 80 good 18650 out of a bicycle battery 90/98% capasity :D
But if i add a 1000Watt inverter it will add 140€
Nice build! Sounds like a fun repurposing project! Also good pure sine inverter always costs a bunch of money. I just purchased a xantrex 2000w inverter and it costed $450, ouch!
A good little powerbank you have there, I have inverter 1000w for my powerbank but rarely used. A good system based on electric bike battery (24v / 10A) an inverter 500w / 1000w (it is important to know that a 500w uses less power without load and is better for charging your other 230v things and led lights. A 1000v watt inv. User a little more power but can better handle the same power and does not get so hot and noisy. 24v is a good thing most cigar usb for the car can easily handle 24v directly. Hope it helped a little and for others who may see this.
What up Doe!?
Very nice battery box for camping Dr J'
This was a fun project!
Great, thx!
You're welcome!
Thanks!
Batteries should be back in stock next week or so on their website!
Well! I liked the second one more. I have thought about this for ten years and still haven't done it. My working theory is that you can't get it all in two 50cal boxes. Just not enough real estate if you want more than say 15As. Really I would be happier with 24V@15A. Thought about and fought over it in my mind. Really, this scale is 12V is better. So, I have a number of working models just have to do it some day.
Awesome video man. Very thorough and detailed. I recently built a very simple battery station using a 12 v deep cycle battery and an inverter to run my electric smoker. It works great but now I want to build a more advanced power station and I'm glad I came across your channel. I'm new to the game, so do you know if some of the parts from your build could be replaced with premade parts? I've never done any soldering and I don't want to risk short fusing on my first try 😂. Can I connect a premade BMS to those batteries? Thanks.
Thanks Jimma. There are connections that can be crimped instead of soldered. I'm sure you could use those on a build like this instead of soldering. Youd just need some decent crimpers and ring terminals.
I'm not going to attempt this Jason but man!! You do great work looks top of the line. I think you could probably sell a few if you wanted to.
Thanks Ulysses! I doubt I'd make any money selling them after my labor. The amount of work that goes into making one would be pretty time consuming. This was a fun project!
Jasonoid EXCELLENT JOB JASON!!
I've been looking at something like this for a newly acquired 12v fridge (also on your recommendation). Saw the BatteryHookup kit and it seems to be just about the cheapest way to get into a 100AH 12v setup. Seems about perfect for that arrangement. Finding a charger to get up to 14.4V is more of the problem. Using a regular 12V charger would only get you to about 13.8 or so, which is limiting capacity on LiFePO4.
I also keep debating this or a Bluetti EB55. I have a 1.2kwh 48v LiFePO4 aux batt setup for an e-bike that is easily portable with a 30A 12v buck converter that works for the 12v fridge, so an all-in-one would fix the charging issue and add solar. I do like this as a capacity booster to an all-in one, I'd be curious how as setup like that would work for you?
I have plans to purchase a couple "budget" chargers for this so stay tuned to the channel for those videos.
I found a really good 300 watt / 24 amp MPPT solar charger that I'm excited to test, not many videos on it. That was only $50. Still looking for a decent ac wall charger for this setup.
I like your over all layout it very tidy. Maybe use a different material to mount the BMS, wood is an insulator but is also a fuel (possibly a piece of ABS). I wonder if large heat shrink would go over the 5/16 blots joining the modules.
Thanks. Great recommendations!
That is a lot of power! Mine are 32AH each by your design. Hope to update the batteries one day.
I remember when I put out my first build and you made two of them for you and your family. Those lead acid batteries work well, I just needed a bit more power. I BARELY fit it in the same case!
@@Jasonoid I bet! Even mine were a challenge with the charge controllers. Awesome build.
Great video, I’m definitely going to build one of these. If I’m using a dc to dc charger will I need to fuse the charger output or will the fuses in the fuse block for the Anderson connectors be sufficient?
The internal fuse block will handle any safety concerns, no need for external fuses
Thanks Jason! Your video got me off to a great start on my project to put LiFePo4 batteries under the back seat of my access cab Tacoma. I even ended up going with the KISAE DMT1230 charge controller, which fits vertically in the back of the center console, fed by repurposing the inverter power feed located there.
I am interested in how you have made out using the MPPT solar input for charging from a DC power supply. I plan on installing an SAE port for a small portable solar panel to augment charge when camping. It would be great to have the option of plugging an AC->DC power supply into that port when shore power is available but I'm concerned about damaging the expensive DMT1230. Have you had long term success with that setup? Is there a reason why you chose that route over a 12V power supply on the alternator input for fast charging your DIY bank?
Sounds like an awesome project on your Tacoma!
I'm not sure I have tested using a DC power supply input on the MPPT connection for that charger. I have only connected solar panels and the DC output of my 4Runner alternator. I'm sure you can connect a DC power supply into either connection as long as it's within the support voltage limits for the DMT1230. I don't think there would be any issues doing that.
Awesome vid. You answered several questions I had regarding my build with the same modules. I have one very basic...maybe silly question that I cant find info on. I got a BMS with the bluetooth module. Question: Can the bluetooth module be powered off and on or is it powered the entire time it's connected to the battery pack/bms? There will be times my pack is idle for weeks...possibly months and not sure if drain from the BT will be an issue. Thanks and great work.
The bluetooth module goes to sleep and uses very little power compared to the power stored in these batteries. I have let mine sit for months and I come back and it's sitting near the same percentage. No need to worry about the power consumption of the bluetooth module.
Thanks for this thorough tutorial! I'm following it almost to the T except with my DIY Eve 100Ah prismatic cells.
I have a question regarding hooking up a more powerful inverter (Giandel 1200W pure sine). Are my assumptions correct that 1200W / 12.8V = 94A. The Anderson powerpoles you have can't carry that load so would it make sense to just run appropriate gauge wire (thinking 2AWG) directly from the battery to pos/neg battery posts?
Thanks if you can offer any insight. Would love to see more of these vids!
You can parallel the Anderson Power pole connections together at 20 amps each connection. Since I have 4 pairs (separately fused) I can safely run 80 amps out and in of my battery for charging or discharging.
You can also use dedicated battery terminals for running at higher amps on an inverter.
Excellent video, very neat installation... I do have battery box which is rated 60AH from the manufacturer. I would like to use 100/120Ah battery in the box. Do you think it would be OK as long as I do not exceed 60 AH with my load
Yeah, as long as the battery modules will fit in that box it should be fine. Just don't go over the 60 amp limit.
I think i am going to use this exact build for an offgrid shed storage, just with screw connections on the top/side of the box
That would be an awesome project. Don't forget you can save a few bucks with my discount code. I recommend these modules to anyone looking for a super simple DIY build!
@@Jasonoid i will probably have to check for customs to Spain but will likely get this to set up a 3p4s system
@@ElAdri1999 I'm wanting to build a nice battery backup like that for my home super huge!
@@Jasonoid once I get my own home i am planning on doing that, and more with the increase in the electricity price in Europe, at least have the fridge and freezer running off solar at the beginning and then expand
Question, where to buy the socket/voltmeter/usb ports, anderson ports, and the power switch with LED?
And lastly, where do you plug in your different types of charging methods? Awesome project BTW, I will be starting mine soon.
All parts used are on my website, that link is in the video description.
Charging hooks into the Anderson power pole connections.
The AC inverter looks a bit surprised! 😆
Awesome build! Quick question: the gauge wires you used for the front panel / led on-off switch looks like 14/16 awg. Is that safe for the 12v socket if you are say using a higher demand accessory? I know the Anderson connectors you used the thicker 12awg. Trying to build my own and I want to make sure I’m safe with the loads and wiring gauges. Thanks again.
I couldn't find a flush mount switch that had 12awg wires. As long at the length is minimal it should be okay. Use the APP for higher loads, use the front panel for under 75 watts or so.
Amazing tutorial and thank you for the wiring diagrams too and parts list. It's so useful to have every single part used. I was wondering.. can I use these same parts, or what parts would you upgrade/change to support the use of anlarge electric winch which might pull 250-300A, however for no more than 10 seconds at a time?
To clarify.. I'd be not using the BMS (for discharge only). This is just a temporary
Hey Tyler, thanks for the feedback! 200 to 300 amps is quite a bit for these Lifepo4 modules. They are rated at 100amps continuous and I haven't tested them at that 200-300 amp rate. That might be okay for short bursts but the biggest struggle you might have is having a BMS that can handle 200 amps without shutting off. Maybe you can double stack these BMS modules in parallel to support 240amps (since they support 120 amps each). Youd have to do some testing in that uncharted area haha. Sounds like a fun project! If you check out Battery Hookup they have some lipo pouch cells rated at 300amps, might be a little better for that high current draw you are wanting to run.
@@Jasonoid I'm just getting around to ordering all the parts now. Can I do this exact setup but have some kind of unfused bypass so that I can do high amps for short periods of time when needed? So still going through the BMS but not going through the fuse block? I believe these 100A bms can support 200A for short periods of time (10s discharge burst). That brings another question I was wondering - on the discharge side, how important is the BMS vs the on the charge side? If you do 200A bursts of discharge, will that rebalance quickly the next time you charge, or am I missing something
@@tylerg3393 you can bypass the fuse block but I'd recommend always keeping the BMS inline with your load just in case. I haven't tested the 200amp load burst but it does handle the 100amp load just fine.
The BMS doesn't really balance the cells. It has small resistors that balance a very tiny amount, so on a battery this big I wouldn't count on the BMS balancing anything. As long as you top balance your cells before assembly, they should stay pretty close together.
@@Jasonoid really appreciate you responding to comments months later - it's really helpful! Ok that helps my understanding. Do I need a switch to do the bypass? I'm thinking of how I'll practically have the ability to connect to that bypass. The winch has big clamp clips so I'd need access directly to large metal bus bars or something, avoiding any small gauge wire
Hi Jason Great video I have same package you showed and had trouble getting amps through BMS finished build had 14.6 volts but no amps going through BMS let it sit for a few days and checked again volts were at 13.5 put charger back on brought up to 14.6 again still no amps ? if bypass BMS I have 108 amps in battery pack will contact battery hookup and see if BMS is defective I cut piece of Plexiglas to cover top of BMS to avoid shorts to it wile wiring. could use painters tape temporarily also to avoid shorts.
The Lifepo4 battery chemistry will settle down from 14.6 volts to 13.5 volts within 24 hours of charging it fully or pulling a tiny bit of power from it.
Did you activate the BMS yet? You have to hook a battery charger in line with the battery/bms and that enabled the BMS for the first time for me.
@@Jasonoid yes I did still no Amps have no idea how volts can come through BMS but no amps ? but I contacted battery hookup and explained my problem with pics they are sending me a replacement to try will send them defective back they are great people to do business with also put l your video on there F.B. Group explaining how great a job you have done on this build video hope it helps others out as you have me thankyou again.
@@bruceburt5150 thanks Bruce! I have only had great experiences with the people at battery hookup! Appreciate the share on Facebook, thanks so much!!
Great video! After watching several of your videos and researching several different power stations I have decided I'll try this build (with the help of my dad). As you mentioned on your website, a few of the items were sold out but I think I was able to find adequate replacements. Unfortunately one of the items that is currently sold out is the Bluetooth BMS on battery hookup so I decided to pony up and buy the kit from overkill. One question, which Anderson powepoles did you go with? 15A, 30A or 45A. Thanks!
You can do it! Just take your time and watch as many videos as you can to learn about the chemistry. I always use the 30amp connections since they work so well with 12awg wire. Let me know if you have any questions, happy to provide a little guidance.
@@Jasonoid sounds good, thank you!
@@Jasonoid Finally getting around to the build. Quick question, do you set the power supply to constant voltage or constant current when charging the batteries in parallel to equalize them?
@@kevinlong5864 14.6volts constant, then the amps will drop as it gets to 14.6v
@@Jasonoid at 12:55 you mention you charge the batteries in parallel at 3.65 V and 3 amps to balance. Should that also be constant voltage?
Can you use a 5A hobby charger to charge this from a vehicle lighter plug? Take about 21 hours?
Also could you use this to jump start a car via the Anderson plugs to a battery or jumper cable from the +\- terminals inside the box? If not jump start, maybe give the vehicle a quick 5-10 minute charge?
You can use a 5 amp charger to trickle charge the battery, that would work just fine and would take quite a bit of time as you suggested 21 hours.
You can't really "jump start" a car with LiFePO4 but you could use this battery to charge your starter battery if you were having issues.
Awesome build! Does it make any noise while it's in use?
This doesn't make any noise at all. No fans or inverter.
Stepbit drills are great for drilling the plastic cases.
Thanks Shawn....I need to get myself a set of those! Any brands recommended?
@@Jasonoid I am a cheep skate! Harbor Freight is where i purchased mine. They work well in plastic and are affordable.
Yes Akb LiFePo4 🔋 ⚡ 👍
I've been lovin these Lifepo4 projects! Thanks for watching!
Were you ever able to get some budget chargers and test them? What would you recommend for someone getting started?
Powerwerx makes a really good budget model, it's the 300 watt mppt version. Still doing some testing on it. You can find it on amazon.
I really appreciate this video. I'm looking at building something like this with a solar charging capability. I have a 20A mppt charge cintroller. I have a 100 watt solar suitcase from renogy. The charge controller is connected to a fuse block with a 20A fuse before leading to the battery. Where I'm confused is a fuse between the panel and the controller. It has a 2.73x2 short circuit current and I'm using 10AWG wire. I don't think I need a fuse, but I have seen some recomend it. Would you recommend adding an in line fuse of about 7.5 Amps just before the charge cintroller?
I don't think you need to add a fuse on the solar side, not enough current to cause issues.
@@Jasonoid that was my thought as well. Thank you for the help and thanks foe the videos you do. They are awesome, and great info.
Could you then put 4 of these in series and have 48V ? Or would the BMS scheme need to change?
It'd probably be more simple to just wire it in 16S with one single bms. I haven't tested doing 4 (4s) batteries in series with 4 individual bms modules. That might work though.
I built this battery box and followed all your instructions. Super awesome video and easy links to follow on your website. The only part that I have been stuck with is charging the battery. I have a charger that is set to the Lithium charging mode, but it seems to still not be working. I am thinking it may be something with the BMS. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to charge this better or fix the BMS?
Did you go with the Bluetooth BMS? what is it saying once it's connected? It will usually say charge: on discharge: on. I also just updated the wiring diagram on my website for the BMS balance leads. That may help.
@@Jasonoid I had to get the non bluetooth option. Bluetooth was sold out when I got it.
All good, no need for the Bluetooth BMS. Usually the balance leads hooked up in correctly will cause the BMS to think the voltage is out of tolerance and block charging. Check my new wiring diagram and double check.
Also, did you follow the last step of the video to turn on the BMS?
@@Jasonoid I did do the last step of the video.
I will go check out the wiring diagram now. I have not seen that yet, glad it's available now.
Sorry it took so long! Let me know if that helps. You can email me at jasonoidllc@gmail.com if you can't get it to work.
Wouldn't it make sense to use a qc 3.0 usb instead? I think it's backwards compatible, but wonder if that would be true with an inexpensive board like this. Perhaps the wattage would be too high.
Yeah, they are backwards compatible, I had this front panel from my previous build so I didn't buy a new one. There are newer options with qc 3.0
Do you think the flattened copper pipe connector should be tinned? Any chance it will develop resistance over time due to corrosion?
I live in a desert so not an issue for me personally. Where you live you may need it.
On the Anderson powerpool connectors did you Use the 15, 30 or 45A connectors?
30amp
What are your thoughts about separating out, at the BMS, a charging port and the power ports? I built a small 10Ah battery and the BMS has connections for charging, using a solar charge controller, and main power. I could use something a bit bigger for higher power amateur radio applications.
Think of this battery like your car starter battery. You have loads on the battery (headlights, radio, heated seats....) and at the same time it's charging from the alternator. These batteries behave the same way, no need for a separate charging port and discharging port. If more power is going into the battery than going out, it will charge. If more power is going out of the battery than coming in, it will discharge.
@@Jasonoid From what I've heard, charging and discharging these cells shortens their life. Is that true? If so does it affect battery life enough to be noticeable?
@@leftofone I haven't used my battery enough to find out. I put this battery though the paces and it's still going like the day I put it together. 4000 cycles to 80% is crazy, by the time I get to that number better battery tech will be available, things are advancing quickly now!
Hi Jason, how many amp fuse that you use for the anderson power pole?
The Anderson power pole connections are rated at 30 amps, but I would spec the fuse to the size of wire you are using. For example 12awg wire is only rated at 20 amps.
Wow, that looks great. You could sell those
It was a great project!
Am I able to charge with a regular battery charger inside box @ positive and negative terminals?
It's best to use a Lifepo4 charger, but the BMS will keep it from overcharging the battery.
Jason can you share a link that fan please? Thank you 😊
amzn.to/3qUXgGT
I'm thinking I'd like to use this battery box for amateur radio use cases. I have two in mind:
#1 would be as backup for my home station, kept on float, but able to put out 40A through a single Anderson PP to connect to my station's power distribution panel. Only one PP connected in this use case;
#2 would be on Field Day and Parks on the Air (POTA) activations where I mostly would use lower power, but might like to have use of 100W (requiring ~28A draw) output from my transceiver from time to time and would run my logging/digital mode computer from the battery box as well. Perhaps some other low draw (LED lights, fan, etc.) at the same time.
Could I use a 40A fuse on one PP and perhaps one other with a 30A fuse? I could go to #10 AWG wiring for those. Total draw from the box in all cases would be less than 80A? What do you think?
Sounds like a great use case for these modules. The battery in total can handle a 100amp discharge max so it should be fine. Anderson power pole come in three different sizes, 15, 30, and 45 amps so you'd have to set it up with the proper size for your load.
@@Jasonoid Investigating the 6-circuit fuse block with negative bus I discover it's rated for 75A total; 20A max per curcuit. A bit light for my use case. Thank you for this great video and all of your detail on your website, but I'll need more advice as I go forward with some of my changes.
You can use just large wires and a fuse and you're good to go, you don't need a fuse block.
@@Jasonoid probably what I'll do is use #10 wire and run it to screw-down/banana plug posts mounted on the end of the box and use ring terminals to connect to the posts on the fuse block. The distribution panel is fused including 40A on the input.
Can you use 2 of these in series for a 24v system?
Yes, the BMS should allow a series connection just fine.
Great, clean build. One question. Is there a reason why you wire your fuse block so the negative and positive wires are offset. At 26:02, there is no negative wire connected on the right side from the first (bottom) fuse on the block. Then the top negative, there is no fuse and no positive wire. Thanks!
I don't have a fuse between the main terminals and the fuse block because it's not needed. The BMS has protections built into it (the BMS is on the negative line) and all the outputs / inputs are fused on the fuse block.
@@Jasonoid Thanks for responding. I just realized what you were doing with the fuse block and the wiring. HAHA. My bad.
Looks like it around half the cost to build one vs buying a jackery or bluetti or equivalent. My concern is the life of the batteries after taking the time to build these. How have they held up and what kind of use have you given them?
They will have the same "life cycles" as the lifepo4 power stations, 2000+ cycles and still have 80% capacity (so 80amp hours left). I've used it quite a bit for camping this last year running 12v fridges and other on and off usesx I don't use it everyday but it's held up great. I was able to pull 108amp hours from mine a few weeks ago.
How can you determine the capacity, charging rate, etc. of the LiFePO4 battery in this build? Is that done through the BMS bluetooth module?
When you discharge the battery you can have a shunt track all the power going out of the battery, that will tell you how much capacity has been used.
Love your videos on these diy builds. I wiuld love to see basically the same build BUT for a setup to replace the lead acid batteries in an RV. I have 2 lead acid batteries in my class A RV. I currently have 8 200ah cells that I want to make 2-4 cell 12v batteries. , 2 BMS's. Since these are for replacing old batteries with these all of the extras you add I don't think would be needed. Just an output so both 12v batteries go together to give me 400ah and then into my existing RV wiring where the old lead acid batteries hooked up too. I would use the same ammo box as you have here. Any ideas? Thanks for your videos. I will be upgrading my solar on the RV. My original little stock solar panel was destroyed by hail. I want to go to 4 2' x 4' cells My cells are approx 2 1/8" deep, 6 7/8" wide and 9" tall to the top of the post. Amazon says this for internal dimensions: 12.5" x 7.5" x 7.2" High . Are your cells shorter? You are using 100ah I have 200ah cells.
I'd just recommend to buy a couple "cheaper" 100ah lifepo4 batteries to keep things simple. They have built in BMS and they are near the same form factor as the lead acid counterpart. They are drop in replacements. Search Amperetime on Amazon.
@@Jasonoid Why would I buy more cells? I already have 8 200ah cells and 2 BMS's like I said above? My question is about the ammo case you use. My 200ah cells are 9" tall to the top of the posts. Your 100ah cells, are they shorter?
@@goodwinml Im sorry, I misread it and thought you were going to purchase them. If you already have the cells/BMS modules, just mimic this same setup, put them in parallel and hook up your inverter.
@@Jasonoid You missed the question again. I understand how to put together BUT my question is the AMMO CASE. My question is about the ammo case you use. My 200ah cells are 9" tall to the top of the posts. Your 100ah cells, are they shorter? I o not want to purchase 2 ammo cases and find out they are to small to hold my 200ah cells.
This is straight from amazon and the case you use. "Inside dimensions: 12.5" x 7.5" x 7.2" High " I believe that's just the bottom case not including the cover. My cell is 9" to top of the studs. Cover looks to be adding 1 - 2" to internal height.
Hey, sooo total novice here.
I want to do this but with a single 12v 100ah lifepo4 battery that already has a BMS on it, I also want to add a little battery monitor screen to the box im making. Will I be able to still follow this tutorial as is, just leaving out the wiring that is specific to your batteries, and ofcourse adding my battery monitor screen? Idk if im just not understanding, but If im understanding how this works, Im hoping my version will be significantly less work for roughly the same price, just larger and 12v vs 24v capability? Thanks so much for this and in advance for your response.
You might need a little bigger battery box but it should work just fine without the BMS since you already will have one wired up (inside the battery).
Hey Jason, wondering if you still think the connections on the top are better than on the end of the case? I'm really torn on which way to go.
The connections take up too much space and would be too tight to fit on the front with these modules, but with other 100ah cells you could do a front mount or top mount. I don't mind either option, each work well. I am building another version of this battery for my friend, video is in the works and the connections are on the front.
@@Jasonoid Thanks, appreciate the quick reply and will watch for the new video. Lots of great information in this one, thanks for sharing.
Can you design and build a similar unit that can fit in the spare tire (Doughnut) compartment please! 🙏
What type of devices would you want to run off of it?
@@Jasonoid Thanks for the prompt reply. I want to be able to run a small refrigerator. I want to make a small camper out of a Honda Element I have. It does not come with a full size spare so I want to utilize the space for a battery and mount a full size spare on a modified bike rack in the back. I plan to have a solar panel on the roof to charge the battery pack or utilize a high output alternator. So far I have see only one person on youtube who has used the spare tire space for two medical type (green and white) batteries - ua-cam.com/video/kbpIN1lEExo/v-deo.html
Check out batteryHookup.com, they sell those medical lifepo4 medical batteries for cheap, might be a better option than a DIY battery
@@Jasonoid Thanks, I will check them out. What about the Lithium Titanate Oxide batteries used in this build? - ua-cam.com/video/kYx097cVR48/v-deo.html
@@ray32825 I haven't used that chemistry before so I can't really say much about it, I might try it out someday!
Did you replace the thin gauge stock usb outlet and cigarette socket wires with 12 gauge? In the video they look slimmer than the silicone power pole wires
I combined the 12v plug and USB port wires into one 12awg wire (good for 20 amps) and ran them back to the switch and fuse panel.
@@Jasonoid Ok- so you still have thin wires coming out of 12v plug and USB ports that connect to 12 awg?
@@leftofone Yeah, but they are very short and shouldn't be an issue with voltage drop. Those cables came with the plugs in the first place.
Have you ever considered making a lithum jump box?
These Lifepo4 modules can't source that many amps. It's probably better to use NMC 18650 lithium cells. I'm not a huge fan of NMC chemistry batteries, they have a higher fire risk. There are quite a few lithium jump boxes online for a decent price that offer better safety than a DIY build.
I may have missed something, but what does that power button connect to? Is there a relay in there, or is it connected to the BMS? I'm guessing you're not running the full 80A through it..
The power button only controls the front USB port, voltmeter and 12 socket. All other connections are fused and powered 24/7. It's wired in line on the positive heading to those connections.
@@Jasonoid Ahaa, makes sense - I could see the other lights come on, when you turned it on, so knew it had to be connected somewhere! :)
Jason, I've been thinking about some other projects and wanted to ask if you think this power station would have the capacity to run a 700 Watt LED light for at least 18hours per day. Would it be possible to do with the help of 2 solar panels attached? My goal is to have a small grow room for plants that runs strictly on solar energy. Thanks.
Hey Jimma, great question! To run a 700w load constantly for 18 hours you would need about 12.6 kilowatts of energy. This battery has about 10% of that capacity @ 1.280 kilowatts of energy. Thats a pretty hefty load to be running that long. What do you need it for? You'd need probably around 1400 watts of solar and maybe 20 of these batteries in parallel to handle that constantly.
@@Jasonoid oh wow! 🤯 I would need it for an indoor grow tent for some plants, and I wanted to see if I could run the entire electric setup using a power station and Solar panels vs using my home electric. I would need power for a few other items, including the LED light, so it sounds like I might be better off just plugging everything into the wall 😅.
I appreciate the response! Love the channel.
@@jwiyual it would be much cheaper to use wall power or a generator, happy to help!
Any suggestions for a 14.6 volt car charger option? Must be 10a max and cigarette lighter compatible
I haven't seen any 12v dc to dc dedicated chargers. You'll have to run a small inverter and then a charger like this:
www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Automatic-Battery-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B08T95FF8K/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=lifepo4+charger&qid=1638900568&sr=8-11
I have found it pretty hard to find a DC to DC charger for these batteries. The option you linked will work but most options available are AC to DC and will require an inverter.
Im interested in the ammo case,, went to your website, found: "MTM Amo Case" but I couldn't find your link for it there nor here.
jasonoid.com/diy100ahlifepo4/
Jason, I am looking to build this, but the link from your site for the batteries is broken. I wasn’t sure where to get ones that would fit in the ammo can
They stopped making these awhile ago unfortunately 😩 I have a couple videos that are similar. Here's an example
ua-cam.com/video/dgjLQzXMk2E/v-deo.html
Thank you!!
So would this build be comparable to the bluetti EB150? I’m looking at powering a small teardrop style camper. I don’t need all the USB and inverter outlets that come on a standard bluetti. Does this build support 12v pass thru charging from a vehicle?
This build has a total of 1280wh, or a little more ....so comparable to the EB120, not quite the power of the EB150.
It behaves just like a car battery, so you can charge it and discharge it at the same time with no issues.
@@Jasonoid could I just add one or 2 more batteries to increase the watt hours?
@@Wrongwayadventures this is a 4s1p battery, so for it to work properly you'd need to do a 4s 2p battery, so 8 modules total. That would keep the voltage the same and double the capacity. So it would have 2400wh.
@@Jasonoid ok thanks.
@@Jasonoid Can you do i bigger build video like this for running larger appliances?
The battery hookup site no longer has these 100ah modules. Any other ideas or know when they will have them again?
I don't think they will, they said they got hit with a HUGE import tariff and it wasn't that profitable for them. Too bad because these were awesome!
What is the length of the hex bolts that you used? They looks like 1/2 or 3/4. I can’t find 1/2 stainless steel anywhere, only 3/4. In addition how would you recommend to connect a trolling motor to that battery? It requires 60 amp fuse and you can’t directly connect it to the fuse block as the fuse block is only rated to 75 amp. The trolling motor draws 50 amp and requires 60 amp fuse and 8 awg wires.
Also what’s the size of the terminal connectors that you used for the 12 awg wires to the fuse block?
ACE Hardware is an excellent place to go for hardware. I used 1/2 inch zinc plated bolts. I didn't use stainless. 3/4 inch would probably fit. You'd want to really cover them up to avoid short circuits on the BMS.
For the trolling motor you might want to connect directly to the main '+ and - 'of the battery (negative lead after the BMS for protection). I'd probably use 4 or 6 awg wire to avoid voltage drop and help with any surge current. Have an 80amp fuse on the positive line. Maybe you could use some larger Anderson Powerpole connections? You'd have to get a little creative on that coming out of the box.
For the fuse block I used M5 terminals designed for 10-12awg wire. Crimped, soldered, and then heat shrinked.
I've been pretty happy with this setup: amzn.to/3vEUqYe
I purchased the 5/16 x1/2 ss bolts and locknuts at my local Lowe’s.As for a trolling motor application u would not use the fuse block.You would either connect from the bms. To the negative side of the connector or the negative side of the battery post.THe battery post connection might require a short extension lead 10 gauge or better.To avoid confusion the connector would be the one u use to connect to the trolling motor . The battery posts have to be purchased and an option to the connector..The positive lead would go to one end of the fuse and the other end of the fuse would go to the positive end of the connector wire or the positive post which again u might have to make a short lead 10gauge or better.Using a connector would require weatherproof cable glands of the appropriate size which can be purchased online.plenty of videos on utube on trolling motor battery boxes for ideas.
Correction on the post wire gauge minimum 8guage or better to both posts depending on battery usage.
Clarification on the post wiring where I suggested 10 gauge or better the 10gauge should be 3 multiples of 10gauge wire or a thicker wire in accordance with the battery application.
I make battery backups for friends CPAP units by using Minn Kota trolling motor battery cases. I keep upgrading one unit from 50ah AGM to 64ah Headway cells, to 100ah TOBattery with built in BMS ($389 from eBay plus tax). What's interesting is that TWO of the 100ah batteries will fit within the battery box giving it 200 amp hours capacity.
The best part of this battery case is that it has built in 60 amp and 10 amp circuit breakers. Imagine fishing with 200 amp hours behind the propeller in a standard battery box.
If you are using your battery for a trolling motor, you can actually use those plastic wing nut terminals fed with the 60 amp breaker to recharge your battery using jumper cables from a running car engine much faster than using solar panels. 15 minutes on jumper cables boosts the power to run a CPAP unit all night. I didn't calculate the rise in state of charge but its substantial.
The 100ah battery I used is under this eBay heading ...12V 100AH LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery With BMS Dual High/Low Temp Cut
Do you have a link to that wire you used?
All on my website, link in the video description
What amperage fuses did you use in the build? 20 amp? 25 amp?
I used 25 amp fuses so I could pull 20 amps without blowing them.
I've been looking at batteries for about a year to build a systrm for my RV. I've seen alot of builds on you tube, but no one does anything about how they are doing after use and befor I put out a thousand bucks on a 400 amps of batteries, I'ld like to know how they hold up. Any feedback on this would be great.
Great question and point! I haven't had any issues with my modules used in this DIY battery. I have used it probably 10 times since this is a "part time" battery for camping and emergencies. I know that these are a great budget option and I do have plans to purchase more.
These modules were purchased out of my pocket and I stand behind them and their quality. This video was not a sponsored video. If you want the best of the best you should go for Battleborn or SOK batteries.
P.S. I have heard that the they don't suffer from swelling like prizomic(sp) cell do.
@@putteslaintxtbks5166 Correct, these are cylindrical cells with aluminum casings and wont swell.
Thaks for getting back to me and so quick! I watched you vids on 12v fridge/freezers, but don't remember if you did a review on the Domende 54 qt. I got one for around $240. I use it 24/7 as a freezer and it works great, but I needed to wrap it with insulation. I think after it got cold, moisture got into it's insulation and no longer worked well. I may try this next summer to open and replace with a ridged foam and seal with something like silicon if it looks like I can do that without breaking it. Even the lids insulation failed after a few days of running, moisture forming on top of it.
@@putteslaintxtbks5166 I haven't reviewed any Dometic fridges on the channel, they are pretty expensive. I have heard they last quite awhile and are reliable :) Let me know if you are able to salvage it after making your repairs.
I see you used a variable power supply to balance the 4 batteries to 3.26 volts at the beginning of the build. How close to each other can the 4 voltages be so you wouldn’t have to balance charge them? I don’t have a variable power supply. Is there another way to balance them if needed?
You don't have to balance the cells but if you want the best capacity you'll want to top balance. You can connect them in series if the voltages are with 0.1 volts or 0.2 volts of eachother. When purchasing these modules they should be fairly close in voltage but you'll notice that you won't get full capacity unless you top balance charge them (1 battery will hit 3.65v before the others and the BMS will shut off charging).
Another option to top balance would be to use a 'lithium hobby grade battery charger'. You'll need to make sure that it supports lifepo4(lfp) chemistry, most do. Those are a little less expensive than these variable power supplies. You should be able to find one on amazon.
@@Jasonoid would this be a 12v charger or some other voltage
@@kenmoist You'd want to look for something like this: amzn.to/3pOGBVO
The Variable power supply I have is this: amzn.to/32IFDBK
@@Jasonoid awesome thanks!
What is max wattage input from solar you can use to charge? Also how can we just add some AC ports directly
You wouldn't want to go over a 0.5C charge rate so that about 640watts or about 50amps at 13.3volts. It can charge pretty dang quick at that rate!
@@Jasonoid So 600 watts of 12v Panels would be fine?
Yep
@@Jasonoid Perfect thank you how much more work would it be to have AC plugs added to make an all in one powerhouse. ive been searching for weeks on what to do, and i think a doubled up system like yours in a little bigger box with AC plugs and a way to monitor battery % would be the sweet thing to do.
@@Jasonoid Or im not sure if your familiar with ECO flow River and its external batteries, but doing that same concept with being able to attach that to your system. While also being able to charge the extra batteries solo.
Can’t seem to find the battery you used on their site. Do you have direct link?
The battery modules should be back in stock soon, check back on that website every couple weeks
Do you have a link for the box or using ?
All the parts can be found on my website here: jasonoid.com/diy100ahlifepo4/
Do you know of any other place to find comparable battery modules or bms modules since battery hookup seems to be out of stock?
Or would it be wise to buy a manufactured battery to take apart for this sort of project?
I think it might be best to just use the manufactured battery left in it's case, it will just take up a little more space than this option.
So from this it appears that you could run a 1000W Pure Sine converter but because of the 30A power pole connections you would be limited to max 960W. Is that correct? Or could I add more 30A power pole connectors to get the full 100A draw out of the battery to power the 1000W pure sine inverter? If not what would be the best way to do it?
Thanks! I have the batteries and BMS on order, now I just need to get the other components in but was trying to get over this roadblock.
There are many types of output connection you can use. You could even connect directly to the BMS output for the full 100amp output or use Anderson Powerpole connections in parallel to add up to 100 amps.
@@Jasonoid Based on this what would be your recommendation? Or would you be able to point me in the direction of the best connector?
@@mulze32 I prefer the APP style connections since they are easily connected and you can't reverse the polarity. I'd probably recommend trying to spread the load out between multiple connections if you like that type of style. You could use 10awg instead of 12awg wire so youd only need 4 connections total @ 30amps each for a total of 120 amps (trimming a little off the 10awg wire to fit into the 30amp APP connector).
@@Jasonoid that makes sense to me so thank you very much!
My one real concern is that in line LED switch and it's wires. Those small wires and the ratings of the switch itself are the limits of the power draw by those three things attached to them. Can the switch handle that much draw without voltage drop from the small wires? Will the draw be more than the switch is rated for? Just a thought.
I don't pull large loads through the switch, any large loads go in or out through the APP connections. Works fine for 10amps or less.
@@Jasonoid Thank you. Good to know.
@@Jasonoid It might make sense to install an automotive relay to prolong the life of the switch. I did this with a small Makita battery box and low voltage cutoff board. Thoughts?
@@leftofone I'm sure thats a great way around trying to pull full power from the 12v socket and USB ports at the same time. Good idea!
what would it take to make this thing accept 12v input from a car to charge it?
You need to take the power from your car alternator and convert it to a charging voltage. The easiest way to do that is to buy a "DC to DC charger" like this video:
ua-cam.com/video/HdBd0_SJf0A/v-deo.html
It would be great to find a heavy duty replacement switch for the panel that fits the 1 1/8" hole. So far I can't find one. Anyone else know of one?
I couldn't ever find one either.....pretty annoying!
Do you know where we could get these modules since they no longer offer these
No, total bummer they aren't for sale anymore!
@@Jasonoid dang that sucks I can’t find any substitutes
Do lithium batteries need a vented battery box at all?
These batteries don't "vent" like flooded lead acid batteries. If the batteries are under a very high load they can get warm and will benefit from cooling.
I've put together this system and the battery voltage of the pack is 12.77v total. Measuring between the C- side of the bms and the positive end of the battery only shows 11.34v. If I hook up anything to it, it goes down to anywhere between 2-4v. If I unhook the load, it goes back up to 11.34v. This is weird. The bms seems messed up.
Check my wiring diagram in my website, link is in the video description. I updated the diagram to show the proper wiring of the BMS balance leads. It should go from 3.2v on cell 1 to 12.8v on cell 4. Each cell should be around 3.2v
@@Jasonoid your balance lead diagram shows the red wire on the left. From a top view, mine is on the right (same as yours in the video). I hooked the red wire to main positive, then the white wire next to it goes to the series connection closest to the main positive. Middle white wire to the middle series connection and so on. Is this wrong?
@@camt1818 they go in order in a series connection to the next series connection. Starting with red on main positive and then the wire next to the red on goes to the next serial connection and so forth. It ends with black on the main negative.
@@Jasonoid well it seems to have fixed itself. I went and checked the voltage again this morning after it sat all night and it's at 12.77v. Hooked up my power unit back up to it and it all works. Even takes a charge without cutting out. I guess the bms just needed to wake itself up over time. Just to make sure the bms is totally working, I dunked the temp sensor into a cup of salty ice water. It blocked my charger no problem. Happy to know I did nothing wrong on my end! Haha. Thanks for the tips and awesome video!
@@camt1818 glad to hear it's working! Good job on your build, I love this battery!
Would his setup and BMS work for a 48v e-bike?
This battery is a 12v battery so it's not quite enough voltage for a 48v ebike.
I built one that runs on 48v; however it is pricy. You can see it on my channel.
Just looked, it appears they don't sell them anymore
They are just out of stock, you can call them and see when they will be back
Can you recommend any alternative modules? The battery hookup link gives a 404. Thanks!
They no longer sell the modules! Total bummer. I haven't found a replacement yet.
@@Jasonoid ok thanks for the reply! What are your thoughts on the same set up with 280 or 304ah eve cells? More expensive than what you used, but I wouldn’t mind the extra capacity. Would they fit in this case?
@@ironwoodoverland they wouldn't fit in this case, but you could build a wood box or find a plastic tool box or something. All the assembly and BMS would be the same
Just got an email that these are back in limited Supply
LAST CALL! THIS WILL LIKELY BE THE LAST CHANCE TO GET YOUR HANDS ON THE 12V 100AH KIT! JUST 66 CASES AVAILABLE.
Thanks John for the update!