Best Film For Beginners? HP5, Kentmere 400, Fomapan 400
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
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About This Video -
I have always been an HP5 lover if I need a 400 speed film but recently, over price, I was interested in Kentmere 400. So I got a 100 ft roll of it just to see for myself if I like it. And I had a roll of Foma 400 lying around so I thought I would take all three films to the back streets and see which one I prefer.
After going in the darkroom and making some prints I thought they all looked nice! In their own way. But, there is a price difference.
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EQUIPMENT USED IN THIS VIDEO
CAMERA - Nikon F90X
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Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM,
ABOUT MY VIDEOS
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
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I'll always go for HP5+. Never let me down, grain is very pleasing, latitude and forgiveness is huge. It is like a donkey - patient, efficient and always gets you there!
I happily shoot those three films regularly depending on what mood takes my fancy. Out of the three I have learned that HP5 is the most forgiving of beginners mistakes and is the most versatile. Foma gives me the "classic" look for days when I am feeling nostalgic and go looking at Victorian buildings etc. Kentmere is always going to give me decent results and I can happily shoot a roll or two of it when out and about.
I love those old buildings in London. Such good subjects.
I've found that I don't really have a "preferred film." For me, the subject determines which film works best, and you won't know until you take the picture and get the results. Lately I've been shooting alot of Eastman Double X cinema film, and I've been working my way through the roster of Silberra films.
Silberra 54UN is ORWO UN54. One of my new found favourites.
I like good old Ilford PAN 400, which is rebranded Kentmere 400 - it gives good resuts as 400, 800 and even 1600iso... As well as for portrait and street/genre photography, even landscape....
The Fomapan 400 negative looks lighter because its real speed in ID11 is more like 250, not 400. In XTOL you can just eek out 320. It's only really 400 if you use Microphen, and even then, that's with really strong contrast. HP5 on the other hand is more like ISO 500 right out of the box with Ilford's times. I haven't looked at Kentmere, but it's probably also pretty close to 500 too. Harman/Ilford doesn't rate their speeds according to ISO standards, but instead does practical evaluations to work out the effective speed. If you do ISO speeds and develop to ISO contrast, Ilford tends to come out a good 1/3 to 2/3 faster than box speed. Foma always comes in at least 1/3 stop under the box speed unless you use the developer they do for ISO rating.
Long story short, shoot Fomapan 400 at 320 or 250 and it'll look just as dense as the the other two, shoot HP5 at 640 or 800 and it'll look light like the Fomapan unless you give it more development time. I regularly shoot HP5 at 800 and give it a little extra time in the soup and it comes out great.
This explains a lot :)
Supposedly Foma has 400 in BTTB (Barry Thornton Two Bath) too. Develops in Caffenol CL well too, although I am now experimenting with Wineol and Beerol to see if there's less grain.
I heard from someone who imports Foma films that the Fomapan 400 is in reality iso 200.
@@erwindegroot8760 It depends on the developer you process it in. Ilford Microphen and Fomadon LQN gives the most speed, ID11/D76 and Xtol give about the same and sit at 200 to 250. You can see this all in the Foma technical sheet for it. Foma publishes speed/contrast curves over time and temperature for different developers for each of their films. They don't try to hide anything. It's all there in the papers that they publicly make available for free. All you have to do is look.
Hello, I've been shooting with HP5 for many years but, on your recommendations in several of your different videos, I recently decided to try Kentmere 100 and 400 and Fomapan 200. I have NOT shot the Kentmere and Fomapan films yet but hope to do so in the very near future and am looking forward to doing so.
While I discovered your channel fairly recently, I've learned a lot and really enjoy your wide-ranging content. I started watching because you reviewed Nikon film bodies that I'd previously owned and grew up with. Most recently, I've really appreciated your discussions on various B & W film stocks. Your reviews for me seem to be much more objective than others I've seen on YT while also be more immediately useful for people who may not have used a particular brand and speed before.
While I own a Z9, a D850, a D750 and a D300, I also own an F6 and F5, 2 F100s and an N80. Because of your videos, I've temporarily put aside my digital bodies to spend more time in the B & W world shooting various film stocks you discuss on YT. Thank you for your care and effort with these videos and I look forward to more in the future.
Cheers for the kind words Paul. The Kentmere films are quality. They contain less Silver Ilford tell me so are not as loaded as HP5, FP4, DELTAS, but for general photography they fine and are a good price.
Thank you, this was excellent. If I was to buy a film camera I think I would start with Fomapan.
Thanks a lot. What I learned is that if I can't afford my favorite HP5, the other two are excellent alternatives.
I have Kentmere 400 on bulk I like it andHP5 and FP4 and Fomapan I usually use in 120 format. Think HP5 has stronger blacks and whites though
stronger blacks and whites is usually a bad thing, though, if you're going to process it further (either in a darkroom or digitally). You can add contrast to taste a lot more easily than you can remove it / in more situations.
HP5 I grew up with it in the 80s and shot thousands of frames I have shot the Kentmere and Foma I do like them for different reasons but as a beginner film I would definitely recommend the HP5 as it works well and has a good latitude and processes well with ID11 which comes with most starter kits and ilford is a great company
Thanks for another great video. Love these comparison videos. Really interesting analysis on why Vote Yes disappeared- who knew. Thanks again
Thank you!
Kentmere 400 shot at 1000 and pushed to 1600 is pretty rock n roll 🤘🏽
Great video
I love my HP5 shots, but seriously like my APX 400 (repackaged Kentmere 400) as well!
Scanning a roll of it as we speak, solid bread and butter film for me, especially at the bulk prices being pretty much half of the HP5.
I learned that recently. I didn't think Kentmere would have been relabelled. Interesting.
Didn't know that! I love APX 100, but never tried 400. Will see which is cheaper (Kentmere or APX) and buy some.
I usually bulk load HP5. I really do love it (and FP4). However … the price difference is massive so I’ll likely shoot a bit more Kentmere along side the classics in the future.
I'd probably go with HP5+ for beginners. It's a pretty safe bet and you'll get something out of it. As a nonbeginner though I really do like Fomapan.
With HP5 I can almost guarantee it's stocked in high street photo shops. This one was lol
Choices, that's what I'm talking about. Thanks Roger 📸
thanks mate. this was quite useful for me as a beginner. a lot of work done on your side 👍🏻
Glad it helped
Always love to watch your videos, lots of them give me great inspiration
Glad you like them! Cheers Anthony
Back in the 70s I cut my teeth on Tri-X, then i discovered Ilford films and then became a fan!!! I Love HP5 and dis get a 100" roll of Kentmere to play with ... we shall see if i am a fan or go bak to HP5+!!! All the films you did are workable!!
I've still got half that bulk of K400 to play with. Fun to try out a load in various ways.
Need another video on beginners chemicals Roger. Nicely done. Silver print were recently doing 10 rolls of fomapan with a free bottle of rodinal . Bargain.
Nice comparation. I do use hp5+ as a workhorse. I did not get the same results with the other two but I have recently used fomapan 200 and 100 in 120 and happy with the results, APX 100@200 ( good ) as well but I do load these only when the weather It is going to be Sunny, to be on the save side. I do have now two bulk loaders, and I go with the weather flow. ;)
Thanks for sharing Alberto. APX is a good film
You should give Rollei Superpan 200 a try mate
Cheers. I don't think I have. Looking at the database it is Agfa Aviphot 200, finished by Foma
I've got a roll of Kentmere 400 in my camera as we speak, and it's the first I've shot of that film. So looking forward to seeing the results. I haven't used fomapan 400 yet, but it might be a nice cheap stock to put in my point and shoot for my handbag. I haven't shot HP5 in years, it might be worth me picking up a roll.
Enjoy the Kentmere. :)
Great video Roger. I’ve shot all three and bulk load HP5 as it’s the most forgiving I find when shooting sunny 16. I pick up Foma and Kentmere if they are on special somewhere. I think HP5 has the most pleasing grain to eye in ilford HC or D76 which are my stock developers.
ID11 is Ilfords D76 I believe. I get good results in that developer.
HP5+ looks nice and punchy at box speed but my favorite general purpose BW film has been Kentmere 400 for years BECAUSE of the lower midtone contrast. This makes pushing it a joy because the extra contrast doesn't affect it as much. It does well up to 3200 but can go to 6400 in a pinch. 12,500 was a wash. It really sings at ISO 1600 with XTOL developer.
Have you tried pushing it with Rodinal? I'm curious about Kentmere at ISO1600, might try that some day
I didn't get around to pushing these three. Thanks for the info.
I haven't tried the Kentmere 400, but the 100 is a really nice emulsion. Foma is too contrasty and to get the best of it a lot of care in exposure and development is required. My advice for the beginner is to go with HP5 Plus. A very tolerant film with wide latitude and very easy to process in a lot of basic developers.
Another informative video. I use both HP5 and FP4 for all of my shooting, from 35, medium format and 4x5 (4x5 preferred choice). I develop using Perceptol at 1pt stock to 2pts water at 24°c for 8mins. Don't know if you have ever used it, but a 35mm neg enlarged to 16x12 is virtually grain free. Amazing Dev (Barry Thornton used to swear by it). Anyway, looking forward to your next installment. Cheers mate.
Cheers Kit. Perceptol is great for fine grain. Used it many times. I've not yet ventured 5x4!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I purchased a Wista SP 3yrs ago and have enjoyed the medium ever since, being under the dark cloth and viewing an upside down back to front image is another world. I still enjoy using my old Photomic F and Rolleicord Va and get some nice work out of them, but looking at a 16x12 fibre print from a 45 neg blows me away. Once you have mastered the movements you'll be hooked.
HP5 is also the film, which I use most. When I'm trying out a new camera, I use a cheaper film from FOTOIMPEX, the CHM 400 (4,50€), which is a Kentmere 400, but a little bit cheaper than the original Kentmere film (4,70€).
Never heard of Fotoimpex Odu! Interesting.
Fomapan 200, best quality cheap film there is. And for beginners, cheap is the main point. As you just need to shoot a lot of film.
Quality wouldn't be the word I'd use with foma 200. It's the one in fomas lineup that has the most QC issues (black dots and streaks). It's unusable in 120 for me but shoot loads of it in 35mm.
I've not shot much of the 200. Reading Jonno's comment here also. Interesting.
@@jonnoMoto Yes, if you believe forum posts that are like 20 years old. First rule of photography, disregard all forums.
The quality of fomapan 200 comes from the fact that its later development, its a hybrid T grain film. Totally different than their other films.
Its actually almost identical in characteristics to trix 400, as seen on Naked Photographers test.
Have had no issues with it, and i use it over any other film stock. Expect tmax 400 when i need the speed.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Its a good film, that people often skip because of the ISO rating. But its a totally different, a much newer, film than what their 100 and 400 stocks are.
It started out as T200, they also had T800 that was later discontinued. Kodak prohibited them from using the T200 name. So now its Creative 200.
Check out Naked Photographers test of it, its almost identical to Trix 400.
People complain about the dots etc, because when the film was release it had issues. But they were fixed years ago. But people keep repeating it.
Never tried Kentmere, but HP5 and Fomapan. The Fomapan 400 is (in my lab) max 250 ASA, and the scene should not be too harsh lit as the highlights will burn out quickly.
A good and safe choice is HP5. Great film but not so great price anymore (6,60 EUR).
My best analog Boss in 🇬🇧💪
👋😁
I never liked HP5 at box much but I think it’s a fantastic film for pushing to 1600. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Kentmere was just HP5 b-stock, rolls slit off the end where the coating isn’t as uniform or something. Tape manufacturers did this all the time in the 60’s (ie. Ampex and their “Irish” brand offshoot)
It was alleged that Ilford Pan 400 was off the beginning & end of the master roll of a batch of HP5 where there are more likely to be problems.
Ilford Pan, as far as I know is nothing to do with Kentmere 400.
Any film test has to involve ID11/D76. You can get it everywhere. Starting with that until you have a good level of skill developing.
Even the official Technical Information from Foma shows the speed is nowhere near 400ASA, more like 300 actually. Even the old Agfapan APX400S was not a full 400 speed.
The first Fomapan 400 I shot was back-to-back with the last of a can of APX400 rated 200 & souped in Rodinal 1:50. Gritty & perfect for a cityscape.
As always interesting, thanks!
Make a video of how to shoot indoor with flash on b&w film. Thanks!
Cheers. I don't really need to shoot flash indoor. I have a few flash guns but only use them if I go to a gathering of sorts.
100ft of film would probably do me until 2030 based on my usage. Yes I’m slooooW
LOL! At least you take your time!
The film I always recommend is super xp 2 amazing film and you can get it easily developed
XP2 is the only film I have ever seen next to HP5 and Fp4 in our high street chemist. I never use it as it's C41 but you're right, a black and white film that is widely available and any lab developing C41 will take it.
Don’t forget the Arita Edu Ultra 100 (thru 400). It’s the best price B&W film. I think it gets a bad rap due to its price, but it’s actually a wonderful film stock. It’s currently about $4.85 in the US and €4.16 or £3.85
Cheers Mar. Arista... Rebranded Fomapan 100, 400. (I am lead to believe). According to the Big Film Database.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yeah I’m not sure why the price is higher ($0.10) for the Foma brand. I had forgotten that they are both T-Grain films.
@@marksummers5504 I think they are Cubic Grain films Mark.
@@marksummers5504 100 and 400 are cubic. 200 is hybrid. Arista (Edu Ultra) is re-branded Foma for US market via Freestyle Photo in California.
I really don't like Fomapan for it's tendency to blow out highlights and blooming, although it's less prevalent on the 400 compared to the 100. While HP5 is always the safe bet, I use Agfa APX400 a lot (which is relabeled Kentmere 400). A tiny bit more grainy than HP5, but with Rodinal as a developer, you get pretty much the same contrast, in my opinion. Plus it's easily obtainable, as it is available in drugstores.
It's funny how tastes differ. I like Fomapan 100 for the same reasons that you dislike it. 😄
@@Verdoux007 I know a few people that would agree with you. It's not for me though. It's a good thing that we still have quite some choice these days.
@@Verdoux007 I’m one of those! But, of course, horses for courses.
Although I don't like it, hp5 would be my recommendation. Hard to not get an image with hp5.
David Hancock just put up a video on Kentmere 400 today. I think you'd enjoy it.
Cheers!
On one of the sites I follow many of the folks were saying to shoot Fomapan at ISO at 200 or 320 and process as if you shot it at 400. I have never used it so I can't say if that helps or not. I love and shoot either TMax or HP5+
Yes many say that. Basically over expose it by a stop.
All 3 exposed at 400?
Great video. Love your channel! BTW, just what is a "beginner film"? Seems to me that the other film stocks just cost more and you don't really get that much of a difference in the end result. I use Kentmere 100 and 400 but have also shot HP5 quite a bit. I generally find that KM 400 really gives me less grain ( Rodinal with semi-stand development) than HP5. I did notice that the frame markings on the side in KM films are often faded out or missing.
A beginners film I would say is one that is readily available with good reputation and doesn't cost a great deal compared to some, Kodak TriX 400 for example (Which is a very good film). HP5 for example has more silver content than Kentmere (Not sure about Foma) and is more forgiving (over/under exposure, development mishaps yet I didn't get to put that to the test in this video). But in general stick with what works best for you and get to know it, as you already mentioned you've noticed less grain in Kentmere with your development process. I swayed with HP5 when I first started as it was always in the photo shops on the high street. A plus for me if I needed to get some on the quick. I only got a 100ft roll so I could give the K400 a fair chance and see if I could like it enough to save a few quid if I am swayed. Another 50ft of shooting will tell ! :)
Did you develop the fomapan at 400 iso? Word on the street is that it is actually closer to iso 200.
I think it all depends on your developing process. But I've heard shoot foma a stop over.
And what about Rollei? I've tried it with iso 100 and iso 400. And they are not so bad. Good to start with film.
I've only dabbled with Rollei. Rollei Retro 400 in 120 was a good film and cheap too.
Start with Kentmere, and then move on to... Kentmere, because it's actually the best one AND cheapest at the same time.
shout out to the cwu massiv
Hello. Thanks for the great content. I would dare a question if I may? What do the more knowledgeable people in these comments mean when they speak of "latitude"? I've been dabbling a bit with analogue film lately. Developing my own film with mixed results but a lot of pleasure then scanning the resulting negatives but I fail to see where this latitude comes into play. I can't go back and redevelop a negative I've screwed up can I ?!
How far you can over expose/under expose a film or push and pull a film and still get good results. The Kentmere has less silver content than HP5 (hence the price I guess) so not as forgiving in latitude as HP5, although I have not tested to see!
Hi where do you recommend buying the films? The prices I’m seeing around Europe is twice as pricey as the ones you’ve posted. Could you shed some light in this? Thanks
Try Silverprint in the UK not sure on postage
I really do not like the green antiihalation layer that forms pan has. Takes several prewashes to get it out. For testing and other like jobs I prefer the Kentmere. Normally I shoot TMAX or Delta. I do occasionally shoot HP5 or FP4
I'm starting to like Delta 400!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes, it is a really nice film. If TMAX 100/400 weren't my general go to or got more expensive, then I would have no problem going with delta 100 and 400. They are nice films.
Not yet got my first HP5 roll (120) developed to compare, but I've been lead to believe XP2 is more forgiving of exposure discrepancies, and it's served me well in 120 and 35mm - any truth in that?
I've only ever shot XP2 once to see what it looked like in B&W chems. It's a C41 film making it more appealing to those that want to shoot black and white and send off to be developed. Steve O'Nions seems to like it a lot.
Lots of people who are apparently "in the know" say that ISO 400 Fomapan is best shot at ISO 200, and indeed, the Foma 100 and 200 ISO films are best given an extra stop. The only thing I've got against Foma 100 is that when it's wet, the emulsion is very delicate. Apart from that, it seems to be a great film. For me, HP5+ just doesn't work very well, it just blows out the highlights and makes the shadow detail too muddy. Never happened much with Tri-X or Tmax although now Delta is my go-to film. Back in the day HP5 always needed a lot of work in the darkroom to get great results, Tri-X was so much easier. No longer do I have a darkroom, just a scanner and an inkjet printer and STILL HP5+ is a lot of work! So how are you getting on with the ID-11 developer then? It's always worked well for me to be honest.
Foma 100 is fine at 100. The other 2 certainly can do with an extra stop.
Thats interesting to hear Lloyd. I know Foma is delicate, I've scratched many a roll of that accidentally!
TriX has been the emulsion for probably 99% of famous images. Can be gritty - Rodinal, punchy - D76 or soft - Microdol or Perceptol
Yes Tri-X is great in D76 for street I found. Just so expensive!
i've bought the book magnum contact sheets, and interestingly it's pretty well split between ilford and kodak films, even on american images. so not everything was TriX
Foma and its rebranded alternatives like Holga and Arista have always looked dirty to me. The images themselves always seem fine, but something about the film base looks inherently sooty. Not sure what it is, the base or perhaps a stubborn antihalation layer.
I've read that Foma's quality control isn't all that great, so that may be a reason for what you're reporting. I also found out that Lomography's branded films are made by Foma, which has me quite disillusioned.
@@scottplumer3668 I'm surprised that Lomo is repackaged Foma, considering how expensive they are. For what it's worth, my view on Foma has changed since I commented this. A very, _very_ thorough rinse is needed to get that antihalation layer off. Ever since I started doing that, no more sooty looking film base. I rather like the cold look I get from Foma, and the fine grain even when pushed.
@@danem2215 Can't argue with the price! I may have to give it another look.
I recently bought Agfa APX 400 and Ilford Pan 400. And I barely found what will happen if I over or underexpose this film by 1 stop, by rating it 200 or 800 iso. Generally I seek more contrasty look, close to the monochromatic, but still with visible details in black/shadow areas (and I don't mind the grain). Is it possible to achieve this result by rating film in different speed or/and exposing for the highlights and developing normally? (I only can develop in lab and they do only default d76 process as far as I know)
If I want to add more contrast John I often shoot normally and increase the developing time. Depending on the film, developer and scene. Or I can reduce dev time to lower the contrast if I shot on a bright sunny day. Best to ask your lab what they suggest on how to expose those films John for the results you want but it may be difficult as only you know the scene you're shooting at the time. You could experiment with a couple of rolls. Choose a scene, spot meter on the shadow area where you want detail to be kept (your meter will return a value of middle grey and you don't want that) so drop two stops exposure so your shadows fall a couple of shades darker than middle grey. So say the meter read f/5.6 for the shadow then shoot the scene at f/11. Then send both rolls off to your lab and ask them to add 25% dev time to one of them. That way you will see. Pretty much what I would do if I was experimenting at home. Two rolls of film wasted but it's just experimental for future guidance. But have a chat with your lab first.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thanks!
Was the "vote yes" red? maybe the Fomapan has a different sensitively to red. Hah, never mind you covered it later.
fomapans "color rendition" differs a lot from the most common films like tri-x, hp5, kentmere. here is a great comparison video: ua-cam.com/video/ciKfWrgsqOI/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TheNakedPhotographer