Let us know how it goes and what the results are. I have my opinions on pushing it past 1 stop on Kentmere. Perhaps it’s probably the way I developed it idk. I’m positive yours should look good.
You haven't pushed anything yet. Pushing happens at the lab. Enhanced contrast happens by increasing the development time. That's pushing. It has nothing to do with exposure. What you've done is underexposing film, and that is unfortunate and should be avoided when possible.
@@evkontsevoy8605Not only are you nitpicking over semantics, you are giving your opinion as fact. Under exposing and overdeveloping has an established role in the photographic community. Just because you don't like it doesn't mean you have the right to tell someone that what they are doing is wrong.
@@ColHogan-zg2pcThey're right. Exposure and development are two separate steps and pushing happens during development. Any photography book will tell you this, it's not an "opinion". The word push comes from "pushing time". The contrast buildup is achieved by pushing alone, i.e. during development. Under-exposing is not required for this, but it seems like the influences don't bother with books and just popularize myths. The "established" role you're referring to is when news photographers were FORCED to under-expose due to lack of light, and used pushing to get a salvageable image to their editors.
I have a working theory that Jason and Caleb are secretly graffiti artists that just shoot photos as a cover after they paint the hell out of buildings.
To this day, I still cannot believe that I watched Jason's video for 4 years so far. Thanks mainly to Covid, I started shooting film ever since and it's the best decision that I have made. Thank you for making contents for me to see and escape.
Kentmere is excellent. I regularly push Kentmere 100 (35mm) to 1600 with very acceptable results. I have also pushed it 6 stops to 6400, and crazy enough get usable but dark photos. A 100 foot roll is like $75 and yields 18-20 rolls with 36 exposures each, so its very economical to experiment with (which is why I've pushed K100 to crazy ends). I recently have tried Kentmere in 120 and its great stuff. I just need to get a 100 foot roll of K400 now...
I have been pushing K400 to 3200 for quite a while and I love it. It is my goto setting for indoor shots - especially in winter times. Great video btw.
Stoked for someone of your viewership to spread the word on this incredible film. I really think it truly shines when pushed 800-3200. I've gotten halfway decent stuff at 6400 ISO but it's garbage at 12,500.
Absolutely slept on film stock and I'm happy to say it as I luckily happened to stock up just before you dropped this video and probably skyrocket the price! I feel like we're on synchronous journeys, I discovered my love for Delta about a week before you posted your video about it. Love what you put out as always Jason, beautiful photographs :)
They look great at a three stop push. I have some in the fridge I was gonna shoot at 200 ISO with a standard development to get the bright Texas sun effects and dense negs for digicam scanning. But I love seeing the push. I can foresee going this way if I know I can run out the roll on my 503CW in appropriate light. Thank you.
You can shoot it at 200iso, it's its true sensitivity, you meter in the shadows and underexpose them by 2 stops, so they will actually be shadows in your negative. Then you can increase the development time, so that the contrast will rise and you won't get a flat negative. Remember that what a scanner can see from your film is much more than what a chemical paper could. So the result that grainydays obtained would not be possible for an analog print (in an analog print you would have ALL the shadows COMPLETLY pure black)
Exposure controls how much information in the shadows is captured, the duration of the development controls how much contrast you will have, so you don't have to underexpose a film in order to increase the contrast, you just have to develop it for more time
Personally I think Kentmere is natively an 800 ISO film mis-labeled. When you develop it at box speed it looks super dense, and when I stand develop it (which should do best at the native ISO of the film since it has no compensation methods built in, other than just reducing the difference between all stops) 800 looks the best.
@@snappy8k I pretty much just settled awhile back on kentmere as the best. Most films are honestly pretty similar, but kentmere is a bit better than anything else I've tried in this application for under control grain (as you see in the video), and since it's cheapest as well, there's not much reason to look further. I use Delta 3200 when I WANT a bunch of grain on purpose.
what developer was used? can you tell the dev times for 1600/3200? I tried Kent400 several times and there was always something i liked and something i absolutely disliked about the look, but i couldn´t put my finger on it. I once overdeveloped Kent100 badly and since then i never bought it again. The 3200 iso looks so good. I really adore the texture and mood.
Fascinating. I've been pushing Delta 400 2 stops for awhile and recently some xp2 with good results. The xp2 tends to be very contrast though. I'll try with my fomapan 400 and let you know how it goes. Abiut time I took the mamaiya 7 for a walk
Any idea on the developer the labs might use? I think some people like me find it interesting. Also did you add clarity in post or is it the look of the film? Keep it up with the videos, always a pleasure to watch!
@@lostaaron8 I haven't tried that myself, so your best bet is to google "the massive dev chart" and look up that combination. It's like a wikipedia database of user submitted development times for chemicals and films and pushes.
I tried this a few years ago with the 35mm iteration. My photo mates thought it was ridiculous but after developing it in HC 110, the result was rather pleasing, even with the grain being somewhat too big in some cases.
Nice one,but you are using a larger format camera.I wonder how far you could push 35mm filmstock 'Cause I have some in my fridge and I really hate flat looking images....................
I just ran two rolls through my Canon T90 - very rapidly as you might imagine. One roll at box and one at 1600. Haven't developed them yet, they are aging in the cellar like a fine wine for a week as that's as long as a case of wine lasts in our house. Great outfit BTW.
Grainy days buys a grainy film and then goes against the grain to push it to 3200. Surprisingly he finds there's not a grain of truth in the belief that it'll max out. Grainy days loses his faith and finds a new faith.
I’m loving the shots you got and the high dynamic results that you’re getting by pushing it. I’m looking for something a bit more contrasty, would you have some tips? Thanks
I shot Kentmere 400 at 3200 ISO to photograph an indoor basketball game once. I developed it using HC-110, semi-stand at 1+64 for 45 minutes, with 2 inversions every 8 minutes, or so. They came out looking pretty decent, actually.
When you under-expose 3 stops do you account for it during development and keep the film in chemicals for longer? Or are those photos that you showed developed normally and just adjusted in lightroom afterwards?
Yes otherwise you just underexpose. By Push(procces)ing you develop it longer to try to account for the underexposure. Shooting film at a faster speed isn’t pushing, it’s just underexposing. Pushing is the development part. You can also push without underexposing.
Subscribed. Confused though. If it's less light sensitive (less silver) than advertised, shouldn't it be pulled by 3 stops and then developed for recommended time or less?
Like this, thank you. But, the comparison between your Spain Delta 3200 shots and the Calif. Kentmere 3200 shots is not convincing to me, all the Kentmere shots had bright light situations. What would that film do if shot wide open at 1/15th like that Spain cathedral shot? How much grain would it produce, would it show detail in dark parts of the image? Shoot another roll in low light conditions!? Also interesting to know for me as a home souper, what developer does your lab use on B&W films?
So when you push the film +3 stops, does it mean that you have to shoot everything under the box speed 3 stops and push the film +3 stops when developing? Or just shoot it normally and push it in the developing process?
Probably a dumb question, but….since you’ve pushed the film by shooting it at 3200, that also means you have the lab push +3? Or no? Or do I have it completely wrong?
Underexpose by shooting at higher ISO and then have the lab develop longer to get what little is in the negative to show up properly. Enhances the contrast, as shown. Nominally, both increments are the same.
Kentmere 400 still has an anti-halation layer, or at least I've had a bunch of purpleish dye on my hands after mishandling with sweaty hands during development...
IMO your shots of Delta3200 have a pictorial effect with the grain structure. It works nice for those Spain landscape shots. Kentmere 400 pushed at 3200 looks way cleaner and I feel works better for more "reporter" photos.
Interesting about labs charging for pushing black and white. Our lab only charges for C41 to be pushed. Our thinking is that the b&w machine always needs the time programmed in and pushing C41 halts all other work going through until that film is out.
Damn I'm a fan of shooting K400 at 800 but I've never pushed it to infinity and beyond. You've inspired me and now I gotta get jiggy with it and push it to 256000!!!!!! 😂
Just bought 2 rolls last week! Last time I used any Kentmere product, it was fibre based photographic paper in 1999 and it was flatter than a Lamborghini. Maybe I should've stretched the development....
Everything always looks better in black and white - accept it. Now of course I would love to know what developer provides such lush greyeries with that film ? Will we ever know ?
a stop isnt an exact “measurement” but rather a doubling or halving of light. for example if you were to push a film stock 1 stop, you would double the iso you are metering at (ex shooting 200iso at 400iso) so three stops in this case would be 3200iso (800->1600->3200). if you overexposed by 1 stop, you can just halve the iso (shooting 400iso @ 200)
Awesome to found in France your videos bro. Just test tonight the K400 push at 3200 and dev in ID-11 stock at 20minutes, that's fuckin awesome results in night shots :D
This is the film that my college course buys and I’ve always hated it because of how flat it is and have always brought my own film like ilford hp5 when doing lessons with film cameras but knowing how good it is when pushed I might start using it more often.
I used to push it to 3200 and develop in Microphen and was always happy with the results, with the exception that it seemed to lack much detail on skin. But then, all my friends are very pale
The people in the non-abandoned building mess up the composition and exposure and get in the way. Abandoned ones are so much easier to deal with - good thing there are lots of them.
the only thing stopping me shooting k400 at 3200 is that i develop myself. That means shaking that Jobo tank like a cocktail for nearly half an hour. Brutal
Literally about to go to the lab to drop off a roll of k400 that I pushed to 3200. Impeccable timing sir 🤝🏼 thank u
Literally going or you are going, or have been? How did they come out?
Let us know how it goes and what the results are. I have my opinions on pushing it past 1 stop on Kentmere. Perhaps it’s probably the way I developed it idk. I’m positive yours should look good.
You haven't pushed anything yet. Pushing happens at the lab. Enhanced contrast happens by increasing the development time. That's pushing. It has nothing to do with exposure. What you've done is underexposing film, and that is unfortunate and should be avoided when possible.
@@evkontsevoy8605Not only are you nitpicking over semantics, you are giving your opinion as fact. Under exposing and overdeveloping has an established role in the photographic community. Just because you don't like it doesn't mean you have the right to tell someone that what they are doing is wrong.
@@ColHogan-zg2pcThey're right. Exposure and development are two separate steps and pushing happens during development. Any photography book will tell you this, it's not an "opinion". The word push comes from "pushing time". The contrast buildup is achieved by pushing alone, i.e. during development. Under-exposing is not required for this, but it seems like the influences don't bother with books and just popularize myths. The "established" role you're referring to is when news photographers were FORCED to under-expose due to lack of light, and used pushing to get a salvageable image to their editors.
I have a working theory that Jason and Caleb are secretly graffiti artists that just shoot photos as a cover after they paint the hell out of buildings.
Nice trailer, can't wait for the real video
To this day, I still cannot believe that I watched Jason's video for 4 years so far. Thanks mainly to Covid, I started shooting film ever since and it's the best decision that I have made. Thank you for making contents for me to see and escape.
Kentmere is excellent. I regularly push Kentmere 100 (35mm) to 1600 with very acceptable results. I have also pushed it 6 stops to 6400, and crazy enough get usable but dark photos. A 100 foot roll is like $75 and yields 18-20 rolls with 36 exposures each, so its very economical to experiment with (which is why I've pushed K100 to crazy ends). I recently have tried Kentmere in 120 and its great stuff. I just need to get a 100 foot roll of K400 now...
The shot you show at 4:30 of the kitchen, that gets my vote for portfolio material. great work
calling the mamiya a RIZZMASTER 7 had me rolling
You in that hat next to the mushroom tag (4:42)---just like twins!
Yeah... Made me laugh anyway!!
made me laugh when Jason said penii everywhere and he is in the shot@@SaxonSuccess
I have been pushing K400 to 3200 for quite a while and I love it. It is my goto setting for indoor shots - especially in winter times. Great video btw.
What developer do you use?
@@NiGauBech7Not OP but for 3200 I've used XTOL stock for 17:30 mins. Or the same but 14 mins for 1600 ISO.
@@B3D5Xcool! I’ll try it
Do you know what is the dev time for 3200 with kodak d76? Thanks!
@@B3D5X XTOL is best budget developer for pushing IMO
Stoked for someone of your viewership to spread the word on this incredible film. I really think it truly shines when pushed 800-3200. I've gotten halfway decent stuff at 6400 ISO but it's garbage at 12,500.
That’s a pretty interesting result! I wouldn’t expect that and it’s good to know that you can use a roll of cheap Kentmere when a fast film is needed.
WAKE UP BAE, GRAINYDAYS JUST DROPPED🗣️🗣️‼️‼️
I’ll be only happy if Baxter is actually in this one
Impeccable cut at the end 👌
that's what happens when you use MAC software
Absolutely slept on film stock and I'm happy to say it as I luckily happened to stock up just before you dropped this video and probably skyrocket the price! I feel like we're on synchronous journeys, I discovered my love for Delta about a week before you posted your video about it. Love what you put out as always Jason, beautiful photographs :)
I hope this man never gets cancer from going into abandoned buildings
Or from film chemicals
@@JoffyCakeyou don’t get cancer from photo chemicals. My photography teacher died of natural causes at 96 years old.
asbestos is good for artistic vision
They look great at a three stop push. I have some in the fridge I was gonna shoot at 200 ISO with a standard development to get the bright Texas sun effects and dense negs for digicam scanning. But I love seeing the push. I can foresee going this way if I know I can run out the roll on my 503CW in appropriate light. Thank you.
You can shoot it at 200iso, it's its true sensitivity, you meter in the shadows and underexpose them by 2 stops, so they will actually be shadows in your negative. Then you can increase the development time, so that the contrast will rise and you won't get a flat negative. Remember that what a scanner can see from your film is much more than what a chemical paper could.
So the result that grainydays obtained would not be possible for an analog print (in an analog print you would have ALL the shadows COMPLETLY pure black)
Exposure controls how much information in the shadows is captured, the duration of the development controls how much contrast you will have, so you don't have to underexpose a film in order to increase the contrast, you just have to develop it for more time
@@Davide_LPdefinitely possible to get very similar results in a darkroom with split grading, gives you independent highlight/shadow control
i was so inspired by your video i saved for a year to get a pentax 6x7 and it was amazing im still saving up for 2 more months for the grip and hood
Personally I think Kentmere is natively an 800 ISO film mis-labeled. When you develop it at box speed it looks super dense, and when I stand develop it (which should do best at the native ISO of the film since it has no compensation methods built in, other than just reducing the difference between all stops) 800 looks the best.
Which any other b&w film pushed for iso 800-1600 can you recommend?
@@snappy8k I pretty much just settled awhile back on kentmere as the best. Most films are honestly pretty similar, but kentmere is a bit better than anything else I've tried in this application for under control grain (as you see in the video), and since it's cheapest as well, there's not much reason to look further. I use Delta 3200 when I WANT a bunch of grain on purpose.
your reccomendation to push kentmere to 1600 changed my life
This is a lovely film stock! I actually really dig the look!
what developer was used? can you tell the dev times for 1600/3200? I tried Kent400 several times and there was always something i liked and something i absolutely disliked about the look, but i couldn´t put my finger on it. I once overdeveloped Kent100 badly and since then i never bought it again. The 3200 iso looks so good. I really adore the texture and mood.
Fascinating. I've been pushing Delta 400 2 stops for awhile and recently some xp2 with good results. The xp2 tends to be very contrast though. I'll try with my fomapan 400 and let you know how it goes. Abiut time I took the mamaiya 7 for a walk
Nice results pushing this film. Got any information on the developer and times used for the 3 stop push?
Yup. Need to know also :)
he says at 9:49 he uses The Darkroom to develop, so most likely dip and dunk, not home dev
@@willjlambr oh yeah I think we got that. But how does The Darkroom developed it? Which dev, at which dilution, temp, and time?
Glad to see the love for Kentmere 400
🖤🤍
As an Aussie, I'm on board with the new nickname for this film 😅😅
Any idea on the developer the labs might use? I think some people like me find it interesting.
Also did you add clarity in post or is it the look of the film?
Keep it up with the videos, always a pleasure to watch!
I've only tried rodinal and D76, I prefer the latter. 1:1 for advertised times, or 1:3 semi-stand (45 mins, agitate at 15 and 30)
Depends on the lab. They use different Chems.
@@gavinjenkins899hi! I use d76 stock, do you know what is the dev time for kentmere at 3200 with d76 stock? Thanks!!!
@@lostaaron8 I haven't tried that myself, so your best bet is to google "the massive dev chart" and look up that combination. It's like a wikipedia database of user submitted development times for chemicals and films and pushes.
I tried this a few years ago with the 35mm iteration. My photo mates thought it was ridiculous but after developing it in HC 110, the result was rather pleasing, even with the grain being somewhat too big in some cases.
10:15 amogus
9:03 Also depends on developer used for both of these. I think different dev chemicals were used but that's just my guess
Hi! Anybody know the developing time for kentmere 400 pushed at 3200 with kodak d76? Thanks!
D76 1+1 for 28min 30sec at 20 degrees celsius, dropping a video soon about it!
Great! But i develop stock, not 1+1, how much would it be for stock?
Nice one,but you are using a larger format camera.I wonder how far you could push 35mm filmstock 'Cause I have some in my fridge and I really hate flat looking images....................
I need to know what he's shooting these videos on and how he's grading the footage, the tripod shots particularly are gorgeous.
I believe it's a sony alpha series camera.
That's a slippery slope to pushing Fomapan 100 to 1600
I just ran two rolls through my Canon T90 - very rapidly as you might imagine. One roll at box and one at 1600. Haven't developed them yet, they are aging in the cellar like a fine wine for a week as that's as long as a case of wine lasts in our house.
Great outfit BTW.
I hope it's as good in 35mm! Curious to see if the grain is crazy bad on a smaller format. I'll find out I suppose!
Jason must be pretty strong to pick all 10 thousand of us up with one arm to get the shot
Grainy days buys a grainy film and then goes against the grain to push it to 3200. Surprisingly he finds there's not a grain of truth in the belief that it'll max out. Grainy days loses his faith and finds a new faith.
I’m loving the shots you got and the high dynamic results that you’re getting by pushing it. I’m looking for something a bit more contrasty, would you have some tips? Thanks
Interesting results. If I push or pull film ans sometimes I do it mid roll I always get it developed at box speed. The results still come out good.
I shot Kentmere 400 at 3200 ISO to photograph an indoor basketball game once. I developed it using HC-110, semi-stand at 1+64 for 45 minutes, with 2 inversions every 8 minutes, or so. They came out looking pretty decent, actually.
When you under-expose 3 stops do you account for it during development and keep the film in chemicals for longer? Or are those photos that you showed developed normally and just adjusted in lightroom afterwards?
you develop them longer, there are usually charts for each stock or developer you are using to know how much longer to develop for
Yes otherwise you just underexpose. By Push(procces)ing you develop it longer to try to account for the underexposure. Shooting film at a faster speed isn’t pushing, it’s just underexposing. Pushing is the development part. You can also push without underexposing.
Subscribed.
Confused though. If it's less light sensitive (less silver) than advertised, shouldn't it be pulled by 3 stops and then developed for recommended time or less?
do you think it will work in portrait photography as well?
i wonder what develeoper the lab used
I've been a big fan of Agfa Copex 50, really cheap and very sharp, definitely recommend giving it a try
Jason will you get this result with 135 format film or is this only with 120 format Kentmere 499 film ?
this is also my question!
What chemistry did the lab use?
I am just curious, for the photos you put in your portfolio, what do you use them for? What projects do you imagine they would get for you?
What dev did you use? Like the results 🙌
favorite dude
Like this, thank you. But, the comparison between your Spain Delta 3200 shots and the Calif. Kentmere 3200 shots is not convincing to me, all the Kentmere shots had bright light situations. What would that film do if shot wide open at 1/15th like that Spain cathedral shot? How much grain would it produce, would it show detail in dark parts of the image?
Shoot another roll in low light conditions!?
Also interesting to know for me as a home souper, what developer does your lab use on B&W films?
So when you push the film +3 stops, does it mean that you have to shoot everything under the box speed 3 stops and push the film +3 stops when developing? Or just shoot it normally and push it in the developing process?
Probably a dumb question, but….since you’ve pushed the film by shooting it at 3200, that also means you have the lab push +3? Or no? Or do I have it completely wrong?
Underexpose by shooting at higher ISO and then have the lab develop longer to get what little is in the negative to show up properly. Enhances the contrast, as shown. Nominally, both increments are the same.
@@mikejankowski6321 thank you! Really appreciate you taking time to answer my question! ❤️
I just started loading some Kentmere 400 into my ETRS and saw this pop up.
Guess I've got a date with some HC-110 later tonight.
Kentmere 400 still has an anti-halation layer, or at least I've had a bunch of purpleish dye on my hands after mishandling with sweaty hands during development...
Edward Hopper lighting per excellence. Maybe try 4 stops Kentmere
what a power stance
Man these shots are 🔥🔥 Are these shot on the 65mm lens?
Hey, I can't find the website to No 1 beach, is it No 1 beach or No one beach?
Letssssssgoooooooo!!
I absolutely love kentmere. I usually push it 2 stops and I am curious to try it pushed 3 now.
Neat results! Which developer was used?
Bootleg Ryan Gosling
How do you find all of these abandoned places man?
Damn that does look pretty nice. Loading a roll now!
IMO your shots of Delta3200 have a pictorial effect with the grain structure. It works nice for those Spain landscape shots.
Kentmere 400 pushed at 3200 looks way cleaner and I feel works better for more "reporter" photos.
6.2k open gate? What camera?
They look really good. I miss film days!
Interesting about labs charging for pushing black and white. Our lab only charges for C41 to be pushed. Our thinking is that the b&w machine always needs the time programmed in and pushing C41 halts all other work going through until that film is out.
How much contrast control did you do in post? Or are these straight scans?
Thanks for the hot tip!😊
Which developer did you/the lab use?
Damn I'm a fan of shooting K400 at 800 but I've never pushed it to infinity and beyond. You've inspired me and now I gotta get jiggy with it and push it to 256000!!!!!! 😂
Sorry…which developer was used?
welcome to the club.
Not been here for a while were is the hound still about ❤
Just bought 2 rolls last week! Last time I used any Kentmere product, it was fibre based photographic paper in 1999 and it was flatter than a Lamborghini. Maybe I should've stretched the development....
You didn't enter Saran's hole? These came out really nice, something else I need to try...
kentmere is great, ive been using it a fair amount. and its priced super well.
Everything always looks better in black and white - accept it. Now of course I would love to know what developer provides such lush greyeries with that film ? Will we ever know ?
OK but how were the rolls developed?
You finally made it, Jason! You somewhat managed to stumble upon some decent, maybe, pictures. Or....
you should review their 50 iso film ilford pan f 50 it gives off a classic look and there’s barely any grain
make a grainy days t shirt, i wanna buy one
What does "3 stops" mean when pushing? As in putting camera iso setting to 1600? What exactly is a "stop"?
a stop isnt an exact “measurement” but rather a doubling or halving of light. for example if you were to push a film stock 1 stop, you would double the iso you are metering at (ex shooting 200iso at 400iso) so three stops in this case would be 3200iso (800->1600->3200).
if you overexposed by 1 stop, you can just halve the iso (shooting 400iso @ 200)
What do you use your portfolio for?
Another grainydays upload! Is it my birthday!
Awesome to found in France your videos bro. Just test tonight the K400 push at 3200 and dev in ID-11 stock at 20minutes, that's fuckin awesome results in night shots :D
Educational with a stellar sign off
How do you guys make money with your film photography?
Your work is so cool!
Those abandon buildings are wild art man!!
Do you know what the pushed Kentmere was developed in? The grain or lack of it is wild to me.
This is the film that my college course buys and I’ve always hated it because of how flat it is and have always brought my own film like ilford hp5 when doing lessons with film cameras but knowing how good it is when pushed I might start using it more often.
your filming gear info please
I used to push it to 3200 and develop in Microphen and was always happy with the results, with the exception that it seemed to lack much detail on skin. But then, all my friends are very pale
It’s crazy you shoot black and white but don’t develop film or enlarge it in a dark room
Is California all abandoned buildings? Is there any non abandoned ones there?
The people in the non-abandoned building mess up the composition and exposure and get in the way. Abandoned ones are so much easier to deal with - good thing there are lots of them.
Literally shooting a roll of 35mm k400 @3200 in the f4 right now. Going to soup in hc-110
the only thing stopping me shooting k400 at 3200 is that i develop myself.
That means shaking that Jobo tank like a cocktail for nearly half an hour. Brutal