The best indicator is the resistance of your battery as measured in mΩ. Anything over 6mΩ means the plates are sulfated and you need to replace your battery. The other indicators like voltage and CCA can be misleading to the condition of your battery because its should be measured with the battery taken or out or disconnected and measured at -18C. For example a battery with a low voltage let say 12.2V, but with a low resistance of 3.90mΩ simply means the battery has drained, but it's conductance is still great if you charge the battery up, but a battery with a high voltage of 12.6V and an internal resistance of 7.1mΩ means the battery is sulfated and kaput.
The AE300 is an "Internal Resistance" technology based battery analyzer that was developed by the telecom industry to test their batteries remotely. This is one of the best methods the public can use to determine the condition of their car batteries easily, quickly and safely. These analyzers used to cost over $2500usd in the mid 90's and the only way we could have tested batteries fast and reliability on the production line, but thanks to the great Made in China industries we can have them for less than $22usd shipped these days ...isn't Socialism great ?
i bought it, received it, BUT SEL BUTTON does not work :( so i can't put a CCA number diferent than 400,500,700 ( i can't increase decimals etc) and i can't read the CCA TEST, because to read the number you have to press SEL to see the result. mmmm i don't like i received a fault one product.....
Thanks for the video. I don't speak english but it is very easy to understand. Is a long time that I was looking for an instrument like this, and now I know what I can buy! Many thanks, really!
Can this device be used to apply a load on the battery to test? Similar to carbon piles in the general battery testers? Or is thing just a glorified volt meter? Thanks for the video
This tester uses a microprocessor to check the internal resistance of the battery to calculate the CCA capacity compared to the value you enter. It's basically a conductance tester. It does not apply any load or use carbon piles to get the result. Also not a glorified voltmeter.
I heard many times that a tradition battery load tester can potentially damage an already weak battery, so may be avoid using an older load tester... Since I had a similar question I thought I post that here about the "internal resistant" (IR) reading on the tester if that gives any significance to the condition of a battery vs. the condition bar at the top of the tester? I also found info at the URL and thought I share below... data.energizer.com/PDFs/BatteryIR.pdf
@@rickt2419 an older toaster type should only be used on a fully charged, apart from damage it just wont give you a reading worth a nickel, it will just be too bad to read, the IR digiral will read an average - low battery and give a accurate reading (not dead though of course)
Probably the battery tester with the load test is more accurate. I have a no load tester and my mower battery tested good after charging it but after mowing, the battery could no longer start the mower. The mower's charging system is good. So the load of the first start must have killed the battery. I suppose a load can be applied to the battery first, and after a rest use this type of tester on it to check its health.
I have a question what is the minimum CCA that it will measure ? I want it for small 7 AH or 4 AH batteries but I dont have charts to tell me their typical CCA ratings
I think your confused, It does not measure cold cranking amps, it doesn't need to, it mesures CRANKING AMPS, a better mesurement than (CCA),,,,,, as long as your cranking amps are higher than your batterys (RATED) cold cranking amps in any temperature (above 0) your good
@@Bias_Prineus I don't think so, electronics are too inexpensive to save a tenth of a penny on a resister thats rated at a half amp by getting a resister that is rated at 1/4 amp and saying ah that's good enough
not a lot , cheaper ones are doing the job, example a multimeter a fluke used to be super expensive, and still are quite expensive, a 25 dollar multimeter is good enough, just avoid the 5 dollar ones
I have a 2006 Odyssey similar to your's; FYI about 2 things which you probably are already aware 1. it's charging system is slightly on the weak side which causes the battery to go bad a little sooner than other cars; that can be improved by trickle charge the Odyssey's battery to Full once a month or so when you get a chance... 2. The rear 3rd brake light bulb burns out more often... so is the passenger side low beam head light bulb more often than the driver-side.
The manufacturer states 1000CCA, but we have tested it with 6 batteries in series and it still worked to read over 4000+CCA. You don't really need to enter the CCA value it's a dumb value, its more like a reminder for the user to compare to the actual CCA reading the analyzer provided.
i think you enter the CCA to determine other things like state of health , a small 7 AH would be good if CCA is over 100 but if its a car battery rated 50 AH then 100 CCA is very low and must display bad health and needs replacement. I have a question what is the minimum CCA that it will measure ? I want it for small 7 AH or 4 AH batteries but I dont have charts to tell me their typical CCA ratings
The manual that came with the one I showed does not state the types of battery, but I found one on Amazon that look exactly the same, and it states: Compatible with Flood battery, AGM battery, Gel battery, Deep Cycle Battery. So it should be the same for this one as long as you have the CCA value to enter.
some one tell me if i have 100Ah battery , then how to calculate its CCA value, or simply i want to know 100Ah battery,s Cold Crank Amp , i will be very thankful to that person.
your battery should state the Rated CCA so you can compare with the reading Usually car batteries are over 50 AH so I guess 100 AH is a big truk battery right ? if its a truck one it needs to be at least over 600 CCA
you cannot caluclate cca from capacity, its due to internal resitance and design, two 100 ah batteries would be very different if they are different manufacturers and age, a starting batttery will have a rating and thus something to test it to
thank you very much, this is the one of the best video explanation i have ever see, thank you
The best indicator is the resistance of your battery as measured in mΩ. Anything over 6mΩ means the plates are sulfated and you need to replace your battery. The other indicators like voltage and CCA can be misleading to the condition of your battery because its should be measured with the battery taken or out or disconnected and measured at -18C. For example a battery with a low voltage let say 12.2V, but with a low resistance of 3.90mΩ simply means the battery has drained, but it's conductance is still great if you charge the battery up, but a battery with a high voltage of 12.6V and an internal resistance of 7.1mΩ means the battery is sulfated and kaput.
One of the better description of functions.
get the Topdon battery checker, its only 5$ more but it checks starter and alternator as well
The AE300 is an "Internal Resistance" technology based battery analyzer that was developed by the telecom industry to test their batteries remotely. This is one of the best methods the public can use to determine the condition of their car batteries easily, quickly and safely. These analyzers used to cost over $2500usd in the mid 90's and the only way we could have tested batteries fast and reliability on the production line, but thanks to the great Made in China industries we can have them for less than $22usd shipped these days ...isn't Socialism great ?
E Tow Best comment I have read in a long time! 😁👍
thanks for the information, but I'm not big on communism, I do like paying $4.01 on ebay for mine though
@@johannakeyser17503:21
So socialismo nao e ótimo 😂
thank you most clear, easy to understand vocal and video.
Thank you for your kind instruction. Very east to understand!!
+sing_mode Thanks for your comment
I have and use this tester . It works great for what my needs are . Low cost and easy to use . A+++ in my book.
start at 5:55 if ya want to get to it and watch the jibba jabba after?
i bought it, received it, BUT SEL BUTTON does not work :(
so i can't put a CCA number diferent than 400,500,700 ( i can't increase decimals etc) and i can't read the CCA TEST, because to read the number you have to press SEL to see the result.
mmmm i don't like i received a fault one product.....
Hi, if have two battery plugs in series, do the CCA add up?
I got mine today, work good
thanks for the video
Thanks for your feedback!
Looking for a battery tester for 12v gel type batteries to test charge/discharge capacity. Not just CCA. Ideas??
clear and useful, thank you
Thanks for the video. I don't speak english but it is very easy to understand. Is a long time that I was looking for an instrument like this, and now I know what I can buy! Many thanks, really!
Can this device be used to apply a load on the battery to test? Similar to carbon piles in the general battery testers? Or is thing just a glorified volt meter? Thanks for the video
This tester uses a microprocessor to check the internal resistance of the battery to calculate the CCA capacity compared to the value you enter. It's basically a conductance tester. It does not apply any load or use carbon piles to get the result. Also not a glorified voltmeter.
I heard many times that a tradition battery load tester can potentially damage an already weak battery, so may be avoid using an older load tester...
Since I had a similar question I thought I post that here about the "internal resistant" (IR) reading on the tester if that gives any significance to the condition of a battery vs. the condition bar at the top of the tester? I also found info at the URL and thought I share below...
data.energizer.com/PDFs/BatteryIR.pdf
@@rickt2419 an older toaster type should only be used on a fully charged, apart from damage it just wont give you a reading worth a nickel, it will just be too bad to read, the IR digiral will read an average - low battery and give a accurate reading (not dead though of course)
Probably the battery tester with the load test is more accurate. I have a no load tester and my mower battery tested good after charging it but after mowing, the battery could no longer start the mower. The mower's charging system is good. So the load of the first start must have killed the battery. I suppose a load can be applied to the battery first, and after a rest use this type of tester on it to check its health.
I have a question what is the minimum CCA that it will measure ?
I want it for small 7 AH or 4 AH batteries but I dont have charts to tell me their typical CCA ratings
does not work on small batteries, for UPS / bugular alarms etc, these batteries do not have CCA
Car should be on or off?
How can you measure CCA at room temperature?
You don't need to as the analyzer with determine the condition of the plates in the battery to determine CCA.
I think your confused, It does not measure cold cranking amps, it doesn't need to, it mesures CRANKING AMPS, a better mesurement than (CCA),,,,,, as long as your cranking amps are higher than your batterys (RATED) cold cranking amps in any temperature (above 0) your good
whats the difference between a cheap one and the 1000 dollar ones...
The expensive will last longer
geoepi321975 my cheap one had bad soldering in de battery connector, did it over and works fine till now
@@Bias_Prineus I don't think so, electronics are too inexpensive to save a tenth of a penny on a resister thats rated at a half amp by getting a resister that is rated at 1/4 amp and saying ah that's good enough
but some cultures try to save every penny they can
not a lot , cheaper ones are doing the job, example a multimeter a fluke used to be super expensive, and still are quite expensive, a 25 dollar multimeter is good enough, just avoid the 5 dollar ones
Hi, if you run the test with battery out the car, analyzer give you the same numbers(result)?
thank you
Sorry I did not do that test, so I can't tell you the result.
The voltage number will change, but the CCA number will stay the same !
I have a 2006 Odyssey similar to your's; FYI about 2 things which you probably are already aware
1. it's charging system is slightly on the weak side which causes the battery to go bad a little sooner than other cars; that can be improved by trickle charge the Odyssey's battery to Full once a month or so when you get a chance...
2. The rear 3rd brake light bulb burns out more often... so is the passenger side low beam head light bulb more often than the driver-side.
Tu. What's the highest cca value you can enter, 1000 or more? Thx
The manufacturer states 1000CCA, but we have tested it with 6 batteries in series and it still worked to read over 4000+CCA. You don't really need to enter the CCA value it's a dumb value, its more like a reminder for the user to compare to the actual CCA reading the analyzer provided.
i think you enter the CCA to determine other things like state of health , a small 7 AH would be good if CCA is over 100 but if its a car battery rated 50 AH then 100 CCA is very low and must display bad health and needs replacement.
I have a question what is the minimum CCA that it will measure ?
I want it for small 7 AH or 4 AH batteries but I dont have charts to tell me their typical CCA ratings
@@AliMohamadChannel How much of you should I believe ? because if you conect batterys in series it's going to raise the voltage not the amprage
@@AliMohamadChannel a 7ah from yuasa is rated 115 cca, a 4ah, no idea, so this machine can only read down to 100 - 1000 as per the specs
work on motocycle battery 10 ah? thanks
just about , a yuaga agm 7ah cca is rated at 115a, so a 10ah should be a little higher, the machine can read down to 100a
after 6 months my screen not showing clearly
can it work on an RV battery both lead acid and AGM?
The manual that came with the one I showed does not state the types of battery, but I found one on Amazon that look exactly the same, and it states: Compatible with Flood battery, AGM battery, Gel battery, Deep Cycle Battery. So it should be the same for this one as long as you have the CCA value to enter.
That looks to be the exact one Harbor Freight sells for $60.
some one tell me if i have 100Ah battery , then how to calculate its CCA value, or simply i want to know 100Ah battery,s Cold Crank Amp , i will be very thankful to that person.
your battery should state the Rated CCA so you can compare with the reading
Usually car batteries are over 50 AH so I guess 100 AH is a big truk battery right ?
if its a truck one it needs to be at least over 600 CCA
@@AliMohamadChannel your making me trust your input less and less
you cannot caluclate cca from capacity, its due to internal resitance and design, two 100 ah batteries would be very different if they are different manufacturers and age, a starting batttery will have a rating and thus something to test it to
never test a freshly charge battery, or after a drive, the reading is wrong, best is to test the battery after 12 hours and cold, eg in the morning
I never saw a car battery lasting 4,5 or 67 years but most likely 3 years.
"this is the up select" "this is the down select" WE CAN SEE THAT STOP WASTING TIME