Replacing a Oil Pan Gasket on a 2004 Honda Civic 1.7L engine. Seventh generation car between years 2001-2005. Thanks for watching, hope my video helps. Thanks
Thanks so much, very nice video. My only regret you did not show gasket sealant points on the oil pan and/or the engine block where the oil pan is bolted etc.
Currently looking at it in front of me completing it with ease.UA-cam academy beats college any day thank you so much for the thorough explanation and specifications
Going to tackle this in the next couple of days. My oil was black and leaking. I went to drop the pan and noticed I had so much more to deal with. Watching your video really helped understand what I was getting into. Damn Honda couldn't just be a simple pan drop... I think me loosening the pan and then tightening again without being able to clean caused it to burst a bigger leak. So thanks for the video. I feel a lot more confident. This isn't going to be nearly as complicated as I was anticipating. ALSO! The 10 ft lb and 120 in lb torque requirements were a concern and much needed. Thanks for that!
Nice video. Thanks for the explanation of what you were doing and why. I am about to do this on my 02 civic, and you gave me the confidence to tackle it.
appreciate the video. i always do a bit of research before jumping into a project. i found this to be very helpful. i knew exactly what to expect. i found the oil pan gasket had been recently replaced. however, the metal rings from the old gasket were still on the studs. so when i yanked the old gasket there were several studs with 2 metal rings. i think i found the culprit.
I just changed my 2001 Civic oil pan gasket. I also had 2 missing studs. I bought a kit, used a 3 mm hex to screw in the stud, and then add the 10 mm nut. Thank you!
Sadly it was the oil pump seal that leaked, not the crack shaft but a static seal, it hardens then stops sealing. Good video for removing the oil pan witch mast be done to remove the oil pump.
The Honda Civic DX isn't quite the same as EX model. Note: do NOT install a gasket on cast aluminum oil pan! Only use Honda Bond sealant on clean flanges. Otherwise the mounting bolts will crack the pan. Learned that lesson the hard way, because Honda service had installed one at some point, so I naturally just assumed that it was appropriate to install one again. Even with carefully slowly torquing based on Honda specs based on their sequence, cracked the original oil pan.
Hmm. I have a DX but it had a steel pan. 10 ft-lbs didnt crush my pan but it did crush my gasket and leaked anyway. I had to use way less torque the next time around and it worked.
That makes sense. I wish I had seen your comment earlier. my aluminum oil pan did crack when torquing the pan to 10ft pound when using the felpro oil oan gasket 😔
Probably the most informative video I've seen to replace this particular oil pan gasket. I'm doing my gfs today. Is it necessary to drop the exhaust? The bolts are pretty rusted and removing them may cause them to break.
Michael Parks if you can squeeze the oil pan out of there. Then try it. If not, you will have to remove the exhaust. Use lots of PB Blaster and let it soak for a few hours before wrenching on them. They might let go. 👍🏼
They let go when they both snapped. 🤣 Going to drill them out today and replace them with new ones or threaded rod and double nut them keeping an eye on spring pressure.
Useful video but listening to the air leak out of the hose connected to your impact gun while it was right next to the camera's microphone almost made this unwatchable.
Brad Stancel yes I know, I’ve been looking at new fittings being it’s annoying. I’m doing a Hyundai Hybrid head gasket timing chain video right now and going back through my clips. I really need to get that replaced 👍🏼
Very detailed video. How long should this job take for a car repair shop to do? Hours? Cost of parts? If you have estimate of the cost for this job to be done at a repair shop (not Honda dealership)? Thanks.
I hate that blue "permadry" gasket from felpro, it squishes too much (not hard enough) so when the pan gets torqued down the gasket squeezes out the sides. The mahle is much better material, thicker/denser gasket and it won't squish out.
@@eastcoastmostwanted710 I would not use it again ever. It's not made to OEM Specifications. You will end up hunting down where the leak is coming from instead of simply installing and not worrying. Mahler gasket with honda bond is totally fine. Not overkill. In the OEM installation you are supposed to use honda bond in some places. So yeah that's fine. Just don't use this garbage blue permadry gasket.
Doesn't look like it'll be as bad as I thought with it being a Honda. I just got an 05 Civic and it's leaking pretty bad. Looks like maybe someone overtightened the pan bolts. Regardless it's gonna need changed
You probably figured it out already but if its leaking by the timing belt you'll probably need a camshaft seal, front main seal aka crankshaft seal or oil pump seal. Cam seal for top side leak and crank seal for lower leak in timing area
Does anyone know where the oil sensor is located? My oil light is on constantly, I figured since it's still running the engine would have seized up if the oil pump was bad.
I noticed you have the same rubber gasket hanging out behind the main crank pulley between the pan. Any idea what that is? I have it too and want to fix it
The actual manual says it's only 8.7 ft/lbs, not 10 ft/lbs. Here's the actual info pasted from the manual: Tighten all bolts and nuts, stating from nut (1), clockwise in 3 steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence to 12 Nm (1.2 kgf/m, 8.7 lbf/ft). That's a 13% difference.
You should have also mentioned getting a new bolt and spring kit to bolt the down pipe up to the manifold because on 80 percent of those bolts I've removed on these cars you couldn't even get an 11mm socket on them and when I was able to hammer a 12 point 10mm over the rusted shrunken bolt heats or what's left of them the bolts always break, often I've had even if they have clean 12mm heads still the bolts often will break regardless of how much pbblaster you spray on them days prior , if you still got good heads to get the proper 12mm socket on them the only way to save them bolts from breaking.is to heat the nuts welded onto the manifold cherry red with a oxygen acelalyne torch and immediately crack them , heat and remove them one at a time and you also might want to consider sliding a piece of 8-12 inch wide 12 or 14 gauge sheet metal in between the downpipe/manifold and the electric cooling fans because they are a little close to those welded manifold nuts to be in there blazing them cherry hot with a torch. Plus the bolt kit is only $4.99 and comes with new springs too. BTW were those missing 10 6x1.0 metric oil pan bolts missing or broken off in the block cause if broken I'd hope you took the time to cautiously and meticulously drill the center of them out large enough to fit the smallest size EZ out bolt extractor into the hole and turn that broken bolt stud out then replace it properly with the correct sixed bolt which is a metric 8.8 grade 6mmx1.0 width/pitch bolt either 15 or 20mm in length will both work but mAke sure the bolt you buy is threaded all the way completely down to the head and btw on a replacement bolt in this particular application the size of the head of the bolt really don't matter whether it's 8mm ,10mm or 11mm never seen a bigger or smaller bolt head that.tjose sizes on a 6mm metric bolt , all bolts 12mm-13mm are usually all 8mmx1.25 sometimes you'll find one with an 8mm head on Ford's when you get into body bolts and the nose bolts in the rad support headlights rad brackets and fenders and hoods and decklids also find this freak size bolt on the upper and lower plastic bumper extensions bolted to the main steel bumper on most 02+ f150-350 Ford's and have a flat wire wheel little two inch one on a pneumatic angle grinder to bust all the god damn dirt that's always on them which will fuck a bolt that small up when you back it out past half way or so , so wire wheel them then pb blaster them let soak for an hour then hit them out with a 1/4 impact driver or 1/4" air ratchet if your removing the plastic bumpers while leaving the steel bumper on the car which is a stupid idea because it's only 4 18mm bolts on the front to hit out with a 3/8" gun quick and then a 13 or 15mm bolt on each corner support bracket bolt size depends on the year , any body who's.a body man and has done enough of them truck noses knows to just remove the entire bumper with the plastics bolted to it still , Lay it upside down on a folding horse stand (every body shop has like 20-30 of them , zip out the two main bumper mount brackets quick with your 3/8" impact then you can remove all the 8mm plastics bolts with you impact driver. BTW I hate air ratchets the suck awefiully bad I almost never ever use them you could removed those bolts you removed and reinstalled with that 1/4 air ratchet quicker with a 1/4" Impact driver . And BTW it's a HUGE no no to not recheck every bolt you tighten with an air ratchet down properly with a 1/4" flex head ratchet by HAND , you have no idea how tight those bolts are as air ratchets are completely inconsistant with how tight they toque each bolt even if the bolts are all the same don't matter , check those bolts by hand and I guarentee! That you will find they are each torqued at least slightly unevenly and yeah I have a $320 snap on top of the line 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" sir ratchets in my box with an 1/8 of body dust on them because air ratchets are worthless get an impact driver bro or do them by fuckin hand , air ratchets are for butchers and short cutters and that's what you did you took a short cut which may cause one of them bolts to back out . Also it's a good idea to clean every. Bolt both shaft and head you remove with a wire wheel on a die grinder before you reinstall them it's just good practice any highly experienced meticulous (top notch) tech , body man or both will know to do and always take the time to do. I generally also put a light coat of either antiseize or blue locktite on ever bolt I remove which from an engine , tranny or suspension, which product you use depends completely on both where the bolt is located and goes into and what it's purpose is as this is also good practice and an insurance policy that ensures you don't ever get no comebacks with loose or missing bolts or the worst a complaint from the customer that my car has a rattle noise now that wasn't there and you inspect and find a bolt backed out or even fell out that you tightened because once you tighten a new bokt the threads stretch and after removal and reinstallation they never hold torque the same way ever again nor are they as strong any longer this is why doing things by hand on motors and tranny's unless your removing parts is the best most professional practice . Mainly you aren't gonna have a need for antiseize on any bolts on the motor or tranny just blue or red locktite depending on the bolts function, however when it comes to suspension and motor mount bolts that slide through a steel bushing sleeve in the center of the bushing absolutely fucking never pass the opportunity to again clean the bolts but then after put a nice coat of antiseize on the nonthreaded part of the bolt shaft or if you don't have antiseize high temp disk brake grease of a good quality or even marine grease will work on the bolt shaft. You don't even wanna know how many suspension bolts I've had to drive out after hammering on the end with an air chisel with a round nose point drift tipped chisel trying to push them damn bolts out for over a half hour due to the.bolt shaft rust welding itself nearly into one solid unit with the inner steel bushing sleeve. I've actually had to cut the bolt heads off carefully a few times and burn the bushings out with a torch , punch the outer steel bushing sleeve out with an air chisel or cut a slice in it with an air saw and push it out using a hammer and sharp flat small chisel or even gasket scraper to get in between the control arm and outer race of the bushing to loosen and remove it then once that nightmare is over coat your new bushings outer steel race with a thin film of general grease you really shouldn't press them in dry ive seen many less experienced techs and body men rip a brand new bushing by trying to dry press it in , good luck telling your boss you need another one despite the local drive just dropping on off only an hour earlier because you fucked up and ripped the new one trying to install it, after you successfully press the bushing in make sure you coat the non threaded part of the bolt shaft with antiseize before you install it , not doing this can put you or somebody else in the same situation again at future date if that same bolt ever needs to get removed again for any given reason, take my advice I've been around the block brother trust me , my Nick name is mcgyver at work if that tells you anything
@@Loose_cl dont worry just use flex tape and hope for the best and i just fixed my top end leak and i hope i don't have to fix the pan too cause im already sore from working too much
@@bobross6677 lol yea im gonna give mine a look next weekend im maxed on my schedule rn and don't have time to look at it let alone fix it. I'm sure its my pan gasket and it'll get done next weekend if im licky
What a serious pain in the dick..I just sold my same year 2001 Corolla and what a night and day difference on the difficulty and simplicity difference between what I thought were equal competitors...these Hondas are built with no maintenance mind unlike the Corolla variants
I hate my seventh gen honda. Dont know why they have to be the most pesky of all. Finally gave up with my leak after trying to replace it myself and it continues to go out and now gonna just let a mechanic do it for me so they have the liability
Aside from a saab I worked on a couple years ago. This is the absolute worst car I've ever worked on. Awful design very hard to service. Oil pan should be a 30 min job and on this it's a major operation. If there weren't so many new parts on this thing I'd have done away with it already. Good video though I always like to see how others do things to see if they have better tricks than I for getting things apart quickly
Gabriel Cardenas The average cost for a Honda Civic oil pan gasket replacement is between $288 and $360. Labor costs are estimated between $224 and $283 while parts are priced between $64 and $77. Estimate does not include taxes and fees.
You can if you want, it’s not gonna hurt. Just use a thin coal of black silicone and it helps hold the gasket as well. But I use silicone in areas that the block meet each other. Lines in the metals, jointed areas or corner areas in which you know the gasket has to stretch to reach that area etc. may leak too if theres a gap and so Id slap some in that area too.
Great video, doing mine this weekend. Also nice to see a mechanic that values his kidneys enough to use rubber gloves.
what do you mean by valuing kidneys?! is there something i need to know?!
The leaking air fitting from the tool to your house drove me crazy making a high pitched noise through the video other then that I loved it
Thanks so much, very nice video. My only regret you did not show gasket sealant points on the oil pan and/or the engine block where the oil pan is bolted etc.
Currently looking at it in front of me completing it with ease.UA-cam academy beats college any day thank you so much for the thorough explanation and specifications
Definitely doing this by myself. I just replaced the whole exhaust system to the headers so this should be a piece of cake.
Going to tackle this in the next couple of days. My oil was black and leaking. I went to drop the pan and noticed I had so much more to deal with. Watching your video really helped understand what I was getting into. Damn Honda couldn't just be a simple pan drop... I think me loosening the pan and then tightening again without being able to clean caused it to burst a bigger leak. So thanks for the video. I feel a lot more confident. This isn't going to be nearly as complicated as I was anticipating. ALSO! The 10 ft lb and 120 in lb torque requirements were a concern and much needed. Thanks for that!
Nice video. Thanks for the explanation of what you were doing and why.
I am about to do this on my 02 civic, and you gave me the confidence to tackle it.
appreciate the video. i always do a bit of research before jumping into a project. i found this to be very helpful. i knew exactly what to expect. i found the oil pan gasket had been recently replaced. however, the metal rings from the old gasket were still on the studs. so when i yanked the old gasket there were several studs with 2 metal rings. i think i found the culprit.
I just changed my 2001 Civic oil pan gasket. I also had 2 missing studs. I bought a kit, used a 3 mm hex to screw in the stud, and then add the 10 mm nut. Thank you!
This video SERIOUSLY helped me alot. Followed it step by step and got it fixed!
Knocked this out today thanks to this video. Appreciate it
Unbelievable how much shit you gotta pull off to replace the oil pan gasket
That was my complaint 4mins in. It’s like whoever designed it squished it together and said fuck the next guy.
...and definitely paying someone to do this, haha! Thanks for the video.
Awesome video, great job. Very informative set by step and the best video out there.
Sadly it was the oil pump seal that leaked, not the crack shaft but a static seal, it hardens then stops sealing. Good video for removing the oil pan witch mast be done to remove the oil pump.
Thanks. Straight to the point! Helped a bunch.
The Honda Civic DX isn't quite the same as EX model. Note: do NOT install a gasket on cast aluminum oil pan! Only use Honda Bond sealant on clean flanges. Otherwise the mounting bolts will crack the pan. Learned that lesson the hard way, because Honda service had installed one at some point, so I naturally just assumed that it was appropriate to install one again. Even with carefully slowly torquing based on Honda specs based on their sequence, cracked the original oil pan.
So u mean just honda bond no seal in between?
Hmm. I have a DX but it had a steel pan. 10 ft-lbs didnt crush my pan but it did crush my gasket and leaked anyway. I had to use way less torque the next time around and it worked.
That makes sense. I wish I had seen your comment earlier. my aluminum oil pan did crack when torquing the pan to 10ft pound when using the felpro oil oan gasket 😔
Great video! It's one of the better video's i've seen for the oil pan gasket on my car. Im doing mine tomorrow and you definitely helped me out.
nice work very detailed , thanks for the help
Muchas grasias companero dios te vendiga siempre desde NJ estados unidos
Great video. Doing my oil pan soon, thanks!
Thank you for the video bro
good video bro!! greetings fron GUATEMALA CITY !!
Thank you
Thank you. I'm going to do mine pretty soon
Probably the most informative video I've seen to replace this particular oil pan gasket. I'm doing my gfs today. Is it necessary to drop the exhaust? The bolts are pretty rusted and removing them may cause them to break.
Michael Parks if you can squeeze the oil pan out of there. Then try it. If not, you will have to remove the exhaust. Use lots of PB Blaster and let it soak for a few hours before wrenching on them. They might let go. 👍🏼
They let go when they both snapped. 🤣 Going to drill them out today and replace them with new ones or threaded rod and double nut them keeping an eye on spring pressure.
@@notthisguy8817 There's no way to squeeze the pan past the exhaust? Might have to do this soon would be nice to leave exhaust alone.
@@turdsandwicher nope. Need to move the exhaust. Broke both bolts on the flange. Got a new flange and gasket. Pretty easy job..
What kind of silicone do I use to replace the factory silicone you mentioned using after removing the oil pan?
You totally skipped what & where to apply sealant. You obviously had a tube right there in your video....
Yeah, I can’t seem to find a professionally adequate replacement guide to follow. Disappointing.
Useful video but listening to the air leak out of the hose connected to your impact gun while it was right next to the camera's microphone almost made this unwatchable.
Brad Stancel yes I know, I’ve been looking at new fittings being it’s annoying. I’m doing a Hyundai Hybrid head gasket timing chain video right now and going back through my clips. I really need to get that replaced 👍🏼
lol It was spitting water and hissing. Very distracting, but the video had great content. Hope you get that fixed!
The old gasket can be taken off by using pliers and rolling it up in one piece (97’ civic)
Very detailed video. How long should this job take for a car repair shop to do? Hours? Cost of parts? If you have estimate of the cost for this job to be done at a repair shop (not Honda dealership)? Thanks.
I charge at the dealership book time which is 1hr. It is involved of a job
This model Civic tend to leak from the pan, but don't know if it's AFTER the first gasket change that people don't know how to put it it properly.
Doing this cause my drain plug had bad threads couldnt take it off
Excellent video. Thanks
Nicely done, but please fix your leaky air hose !
I hate that blue "permadry" gasket from felpro, it squishes too much (not hard enough) so when the pan gets torqued down the gasket squeezes out the sides. The mahle is much better material, thicker/denser gasket and it won't squish out.
In combination with some honda bond or is that overkill?
@@eastcoastmostwanted710 I would not use it again ever. It's not made to OEM Specifications. You will end up hunting down where the leak is coming from instead of simply installing and not worrying. Mahler gasket with honda bond is totally fine. Not overkill. In the OEM installation you are supposed to use honda bond in some places. So yeah that's fine. Just don't use this garbage blue permadry gasket.
Allright then thank you
Apparently something is different between ex and other models.
Removing those two exhaust bolts its tuff
Remove the 13 or 12 mm bolts on the exhaust manifold and move the rubber out of the hook near the oil pan. I done it that way
14:41 holds up lightsaber xD
Doesn't look like it'll be as bad as I thought with it being a Honda. I just got an 05 Civic and it's leaking pretty bad. Looks like maybe someone overtightened the pan bolts. Regardless it's gonna need changed
The second thing you pointed out where oil could be leaking by the timing belt, what should I look up if I have oil in that area
You probably figured it out already but if its leaking by the timing belt you'll probably need a camshaft seal, front main seal aka crankshaft seal or oil pump seal. Cam seal for top side leak and crank seal for lower leak in timing area
Buen. Trabajo. Mecánico
What was the first thing you pointed out? Mines vibrates
Does anyone know where the oil sensor is located? My oil light is on constantly, I figured since it's still running the engine would have seized up if the oil pump was bad.
I noticed you have the same rubber gasket hanging out behind the main crank pulley between the pan. Any idea what that is? I have it too and want to fix it
What the name of the adhesive glue thing you used ? Thanks
What size screws for the oil pan ??
What is the name of that part you pointed at first? The easy 5 dollar fix . Thanks
C Duran rear cam plug lol. And Thanks
you did not clean the oil pan, how do you gonna check for leaks if the is oil all over the place
@12:09 set to 10lbs torque spec.
I used a torch too remove my gasket heated old one pulled off
Man I hate getting under cars even though I have jack stands. Lol I used the jack and the jack stands because I'm so paranoid.
That is a smart thing to do. You should use Jack stands when getting under the vehicle.
Where did you buy the gasket ? Does the car stop leaking now ? Thanks
Shit.. this is kind of a big job...that or your making it big job. Either way I think imma hold off until my gasket is actually leaking
Perfect
Thanks for the video
What’s your model exactly and is this an automatic?
Is there a difference pan I have a 5 speed and I friend had a dx and put and ex is it the same oil pan
I have a 2001 civic lx auto , same pan and process .
@@ace31612 DX and LX have a steel pan w/gasket, EX has an aluminium pan, no gasket, only HondaBond.
@@GaryDelgado seriously? I have an ex and I have this job coming up to do so I'm looking for a gasket would make sense since I can't locate one
Manual transmission versions appear to have unimpeded oil pans. At least mine is.
What does that mean
nice video
How many bolt were in the oil pan?
18
Like a guessing game trying to find all the wholes huh? 😏
Just used 120 in lb torque on my 3/8 torque wrench. Broke my God damn oil pan😡👎
Thats why i use german torque specs. Gootentite. Its an oil pan, not cam caps or head studs.
The actual manual says it's only 8.7 ft/lbs, not 10 ft/lbs.
Here's the actual info pasted from the manual: Tighten all bolts and nuts, stating from nut (1), clockwise in 3 steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence to 12 Nm (1.2 kgf/m, 8.7 lbf/ft).
That's a 13% difference.
What is the name of that stop called.. when you said the first common leak? Plz
Cylinder Head End Plug
Why do you kinda sound like Bruce from family guy?
Do you have a part number?
Tankyou
You should have also mentioned getting a new bolt and spring kit to bolt the down pipe up to the manifold because on 80 percent of those bolts I've removed on these cars you couldn't even get an 11mm socket on them and when I was able to hammer a 12 point 10mm over the rusted shrunken bolt heats or what's left of them the bolts always break, often I've had even if they have clean 12mm heads still the bolts often will break regardless of how much pbblaster you spray on them days prior , if you still got good heads to get the proper 12mm socket on them the only way to save them bolts from breaking.is to heat the nuts welded onto the manifold cherry red with a oxygen acelalyne torch and immediately crack them , heat and remove them one at a time and you also might want to consider sliding a piece of 8-12 inch wide 12 or 14 gauge sheet metal in between the downpipe/manifold and the electric cooling fans because they are a little close to those welded manifold nuts to be in there blazing them cherry hot with a torch. Plus the bolt kit is only $4.99 and comes with new springs too. BTW were those missing 10 6x1.0 metric oil pan bolts missing or broken off in the block cause if broken I'd hope you took the time to cautiously and meticulously drill the center of them out large enough to fit the smallest size EZ out bolt extractor into the hole and turn that broken bolt stud out then replace it properly with the correct sixed bolt which is a metric 8.8 grade 6mmx1.0 width/pitch bolt either 15 or 20mm in length will both work but mAke sure the bolt you buy is threaded all the way completely down to the head and btw on a replacement bolt in this particular application the size of the head of the bolt really don't matter whether it's 8mm ,10mm or 11mm never seen a bigger or smaller bolt head that.tjose sizes on a 6mm metric bolt , all bolts 12mm-13mm are usually all 8mmx1.25 sometimes you'll find one with an 8mm head on Ford's when you get into body bolts and the nose bolts in the rad support headlights rad brackets and fenders and hoods and decklids also find this freak size bolt on the upper and lower plastic bumper extensions bolted to the main steel bumper on most 02+ f150-350 Ford's and have a flat wire wheel little two inch one on a pneumatic angle grinder to bust all the god damn dirt that's always on them which will fuck a bolt that small up when you back it out past half way or so , so wire wheel them then pb blaster them let soak for an hour then hit them out with a 1/4 impact driver or 1/4" air ratchet if your removing the plastic bumpers while leaving the steel bumper on the car which is a stupid idea because it's only 4 18mm bolts on the front to hit out with a 3/8" gun quick and then a 13 or 15mm bolt on each corner support bracket bolt size depends on the year , any body who's.a body man and has done enough of them truck noses knows to just remove the entire bumper with the plastics bolted to it still , Lay it upside down on a folding horse stand (every body shop has like 20-30 of them , zip out the two main bumper mount brackets quick with your 3/8" impact then you can remove all the 8mm plastics bolts with you impact driver. BTW I hate air ratchets the suck awefiully bad I almost never ever use them you could removed those bolts you removed and reinstalled with that 1/4 air ratchet quicker with a 1/4" Impact driver . And BTW it's a HUGE no no to not recheck every bolt you tighten with an air ratchet down properly with a 1/4" flex head ratchet by HAND , you have no idea how tight those bolts are as air ratchets are completely inconsistant with how tight they toque each bolt even if the bolts are all the same don't matter , check those bolts by hand and I guarentee! That you will find they are each torqued at least slightly unevenly and yeah I have a $320 snap on top of the line 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" sir ratchets in my box with an 1/8 of body dust on them because air ratchets are worthless get an impact driver bro or do them by fuckin hand , air ratchets are for butchers and short cutters and that's what you did you took a short cut which may cause one of them bolts to back out . Also it's a good idea to clean every. Bolt both shaft and head you remove with a wire wheel on a die grinder before you reinstall them it's just good practice any highly experienced meticulous (top notch) tech , body man or both will know to do and always take the time to do. I generally also put a light coat of either antiseize or blue locktite on ever bolt I remove which from an engine , tranny or suspension, which product you use depends completely on both where the bolt is located and goes into and what it's purpose is as this is also good practice and an insurance policy that ensures you don't ever get no comebacks with loose or missing bolts or the worst a complaint from the customer that my car has a rattle noise now that wasn't there and you inspect and find a bolt backed out or even fell out that you tightened because once you tighten a new bokt the threads stretch and after removal and reinstallation they never hold torque the same way ever again nor are they as strong any longer this is why doing things by hand on motors and tranny's unless your removing parts is the best most professional practice . Mainly you aren't gonna have a need for antiseize on any bolts on the motor or tranny just blue or red locktite depending on the bolts function, however when it comes to suspension and motor mount bolts that slide through a steel bushing sleeve in the center of the bushing absolutely fucking never pass the opportunity to again clean the bolts but then after put a nice coat of antiseize on the nonthreaded part of the bolt shaft or if you don't have antiseize high temp disk brake grease of a good quality or even marine grease will work on the bolt shaft. You don't even wanna know how many suspension bolts I've had to drive out after hammering on the end with an air chisel with a round nose point drift tipped chisel trying to push them damn bolts out for over a half hour due to the.bolt shaft rust welding itself nearly into one solid unit with the inner steel bushing sleeve. I've actually had to cut the bolt heads off carefully a few times and burn the bushings out with a torch , punch the outer steel bushing sleeve out with an air chisel or cut a slice in it with an air saw and push it out using a hammer and sharp flat small chisel or even gasket scraper to get in between the control arm and outer race of the bushing to loosen and remove it then once that nightmare is over coat your new bushings outer steel race with a thin film of general grease you really shouldn't press them in dry ive seen many less experienced techs and body men rip a brand new bushing by trying to dry press it in , good luck telling your boss you need another one despite the local drive just dropping on off only an hour earlier because you fucked up and ripped the new one trying to install it, after you successfully press the bushing in make sure you coat the non threaded part of the bolt shaft with antiseize before you install it , not doing this can put you or somebody else in the same situation again at future date if that same bolt ever needs to get removed again for any given reason, take my advice I've been around the block brother trust me , my Nick name is mcgyver at work if that tells you anything
The bolts that go to the exhaust manifold are non existent and so is where they bolt to, nothing for me to to bolt to
At 10:03 there is a gasket hanging out of the left side where the end of the crankshaft is. Why was that gasket hanging like that?
You might see it better on 9:43
The front engine cover gasket. Part number 11831-PLC-000 . But that’s another video. Thanks
@@ls1camaro92 awesome video thanks! Was the video of the front engine cover gasket ever made? I couldn’t find it.
Manual says 104 inch pounds, Felpro says 105, not 120 inch pounds
Scary job, but it'll be a lot cheaper doing it myself.
What’s the first part you pointed out called?
Brooo… fix your air hose fitting! How does that not drive you crazy!?
Whats the bolts nuts going to tight with torque wrech?
Probably pressure crack it eventually
OMG fix the leaking air hose
Michael Nichols 😅 yes I did lol
My 2002 honda civic lx does not have that cable....
Angel Loya automatic?
easier just to buy new oil pan
I was looking this up just cause and now i dont want my oil pan to leak
Man I think mine started leaking today and im pissed after watching this because I know ill end up doing this myself with no air tools 😪
@@Loose_cl dont worry just use flex tape and hope for the best and i just fixed my top end leak and i hope i don't have to fix the pan too cause im already sore from working too much
@@bobross6677 lol yea im gonna give mine a look next weekend im maxed on my schedule rn and don't have time to look at it let alone fix it. I'm sure its my pan gasket and it'll get done next weekend if im licky
@@Loose_cl good luck
@@bobross6677 thanks lol
What a serious pain in the dick..I just sold my same year 2001 Corolla and what a night and day difference on the difficulty and simplicity difference between what I thought were equal competitors...these Hondas are built with no maintenance mind unlike the Corolla variants
I hate my seventh gen honda. Dont know why they have to be the most pesky of all. Finally gave up with my leak after trying to replace it myself and it continues to go out and now gonna just let a mechanic do it for me so they have the liability
all other videos smear silicone all over, some one side some both or ends and holes,,,,,?????
Aside from a saab I worked on a couple years ago. This is the absolute worst car I've ever worked on. Awful design very hard to service. Oil pan should be a 30 min job and on this it's a major operation. If there weren't so many new parts on this thing I'd have done away with it already. Good video though I always like to see how others do things to see if they have better tricks than I for getting things apart quickly
You obviously have never worked on a 71 Ford LTD, the engine has to be pulled out to replace the pan gasket.
How much a mechanic charge for this?
Gabriel Cardenas The average cost for a Honda Civic oil pan gasket replacement is between $288 and $360. Labor costs are estimated between $224 and $283 while parts are priced between $64 and $77. Estimate does not include taxes and fees.
@@ls1camaro92 thaknyou !
Why is the egr valve missing?
Greg Wooley J D M. They dont have egrs Japan my freind
Ok. Mine has one and it must be USDM. Thanks!
My wife's car doesn't have EGR , 2002 LX made for Canada 🇨🇦
@@alexanderrikant8878 My canada made 2003 LX no EGR either.
Non California Car
You wrong. No gasket. Only RTV
I went the honda dealer, they do not have it only RTV.
You can purchase the oil pan gasket at your local parts supplier.
Did you use silicone on the new gasket or on the oil pan itself when you reinstalled it ?
You can if you want, it’s not gonna hurt. Just use a thin coal of black silicone and it helps hold the gasket as well. But I use silicone in areas that the block meet each other. Lines in the metals, jointed areas or corner areas in which you know the gasket has to stretch to reach that area etc. may leak too if theres a gap and so Id slap some in that area too.
@@ls1camaro92 thanks 🙏🏽
Do you put gasket sealant in addition to the rubber gasket on the pan?
Bobby Lailatul only on the surface of the engine block in which 2 pieces meet.