Finishing up the construction of my router copy carving machine woodgears.ca/copy_carver I also sell plans for this machine here: woodgears.ca/copy_carver/plans
brinklebug posted: Matthias. Consider me your #1 fan. This copy router is exactly what I'm looking for and thought I was getting when I made the panto router. No matter - I enjoyed making the panto router and will enjoy the copy router. Looking forward to your future projects.
I'm not the brightest brick in the tool pile and have a hard time learning. your vids are exalent.easy to follow along, thank you for finding the time to make them. I am learning despit my age, even do here in America
You say you don't have the patience to make a CNC??? You sir have the patience of a saint.! Keep up the excellent work, we all appreciate your videos. Very informative and easy watching.
Extremely good designing. One of the best that I have seen on UA-cam.I was actually thinking of making something similar, but your video gave me some great ideas. Thank you for posting. God bless.
vc realmente e o cara vc e um genio mesmo sou seu fa de carteirinha fis esta sua maquina ai e deu certinho ,fiz mais outras e tambem deu tudo certo,obrigado por postar estes vidios tao bons e com a qualidade de imagem em hd perfeito k DEUS sempre te abençoe.
Nice project. It looks as if it would easily scale to a larger width for larger projects too; as long as it was kept rigid with bracing. You did a very nice job on mounting those bearings with a mitre cut. I haven't seen that before. If you have trouble sourcing Rollerblade wheels, an R6-2RS bearing is 3/8" ID and most bearing suppliers stock them. I think I paid about $1 each or so last time.
fantastic work !! I wish I could have a go at making this I will download the plans just to give u my money for all that hard work well done ! fantastic !!
Mathias on a regular CNC we would have a "roughing pass" using a larger endmill and a "finish pass" using typically a 1/8th" ballnose. I would say if you had interchangable smaller follower heads using smaller bits you could get finer details. All in all another example of the reason you should be crowned the "McGyver" of the woodshop! Good job.
Awesome project! I buyed your plans right now, seven years late!! Really impressive project, simple and efficencent. I will proceed to build it asap, let me know if you had some improvement during last years! Tks, subscribed and liked!!
The finished piece looks really good! I commented on the last video with suggestions to use linear ball bearings, and just to further clarify, I suggest that you should use it to guide the large shaft and NOT the whole rig. The stuff you do with the 90° tilted ball bearings in order to guide the whole jig is great, and using linear ball bearings here would be overkill, and possibly less accurate. However, for guiding the sideways movement along the large shaft I would still recommend linear BBs.
Try it! I'd love to see it soon. Hope you're gonna overcome Matthias' concerns about calibration. However I share his view a little bit. Although the lateral tilting would be nice, you can still use his original design to have a second undercut. How? Just use two secondary base plates, one for the original object, one for the copy piece and mark both identical with two points. Having done the Y-tilting, you can turn both by 90deg, use the points to adjust and start "X"-tilting. Hope it's clear.
great video Mathias as always. You might consider using a simple cast urethane or even 2 part epoxy for making your following tips. simply plunge the original router bit into a material to make the mold then cast it with the plastic. voila they are perfect. they can be easily threaded and made to be easily changed out with bit changes. gerald
I think not having the parallelogram would also allow more complicated shapes, holding the router vertical would only allow vertical projections to be carved. the tilting looked like it would be handy to get underneath things that had some height off the table. Very cool piece of kit!
Hi Matthias, great video and nice build. @ 6:38 i got the impression that the router holding board was little tilted towards the back, so I suppose that the difference in mesures between right and left was cause you took the second measurement on the board protrusion of couple cm on the router mount . Just a tought :) Thanks alot for sharing your nice videos
Exelente. Buen proyecto. Trataré de repriducirlo, me interesa mucho .Amigo por casulidad tienes planos que pudieras compartir conmigo? Saludos desde Chile Un abrazo
But now you have to make one for each size that Fitzall can do... make one that's adjustable next time, LOL... Nice work I've read and watched lots of your stuff very innovative (ref: marble machines) Keep it up!
I like the concept. You could incorporate a way to spin the original and the blank and turn this into a router lathe duplicator. This would give it the capability to carve in the round, as well as quickly replicate spindles, baseball bats, gun stocks, etc. The possibilities are endless.
Dear Matthias, Thanks for yet another great video! What software do you use to make your plans? I like how you have the ability to animate along constrants (something Sketchup can't do). Thanks! :)
Yes, but up/down would be reversed. Which means either your model or your carved object would have to be mounted upside down. Also, the follower or the router would have to be mounted from below the axis of tilt, which makes for a nasty complicated mechanism. And to top it all off, it would produce a mirror image of the original.
I wish you would build a CNC Router. I know there are videos on youtube already but I am certain that if you made one it would be a great video with a ton of useful info.
I use a nice little thing when i use screws in wood. once i put the screws in i back them out and add a generous amount of super glue. not to hold the screw but it hardens the wood almost like steel.
Matthias, I have seen many of your videos and I look great and very didactic, congratulations and rising more videos like these. Although I would like to know steps to a router with a minidrill copying dremel type, I do not speak English but I have the google translator that seems pretty good. A big hello from Barcelona, Spain, Orlando Reinoso
Hi,Mattias Wandel!.Thank you for all the info on your site.How to build a dust collection sistem the same as you.Good luck to you always and everywhere.
Great! Might need one too. What if I wish to get a copy, say, 2mm heigher than the original? Will it work by making the router bit 2mm higher than the rod on the other side?
I'm thinking an adjustable depth limiter would be a useful addition, especially for the initial rough-out. It would avoid any unintentional deep plunges (especially with a ball cutter or anything else that could get hung up in an undercut).
Hi Matthias, would you be able to use your your panta router or maybe your copy carver to trim crown molding that would normally be be cut with a coping saw to make a corner joint.
Well done...it is one of the most useful video that I have ever seen. and I have a question: Is that possible to add more head to carver more thing as a multi head? because it is made by wood and I am wondering if it can tolerance the weight of extra motors?
The alignment checks were interesting. Now that you have done that once, would you make any changes to the design to allow for easier alignment? In any case, another interesting build from Matthias' infinite workshop! Have you ever considered using aluminum stock or extrusions for some of the parts?
Hey Matthias... do you switch out the bits to smaller and smaller sizes for more detail as you go? Would you then need multiple matching followers as well? Thanks for another fantastic idea!!
We're both. Mostly metric, but for most construction stuff and dimensioned lumber, we still use feet and inches. (And that's mostly good. The sorts of fractions one normally works in with wood - halves, quarters and eighths, as well as thirds for panel materials like plywood and drywall - are easier in Imperial.) It does mean having two sets of drill bits, two sets of wrenches, and often making two passes with a 6mm chisel to clean out a 1/4" mortise, but we cope.
Hey Matt, dig yer designs. Looks like you're using 10 layer plywood. Where do you get that? Not @ Home Depot or Lowes, possibly custom wood supplier? I know you are in Canada and the 2X4s you use are very good quality as well, (clear w/o many knots). Is it a territorial thing? The stuff we have down in the states is very knotty as well as warped. Maybe just the stock they get into Calif.
Excellent machine Matthias. I wonder if you could incorporate a sort of adjustable depth stop which would allow you to carve the copy in planes of 3mm or so? This would help prevent the tool snatching too deeply. Or is this just a solution looking for a problem? (Thanks for introducing me to Sketchup by the way).
I just built this in a 4’ x 4’ scale so I can copy carving I do for custom guitars. Man it works great ! Thanks for the plans/design !
Автор молодец, доходчиво и без перевода всё понятно. Спасибо за идею, подсказку!!!
I've been watching your videos for over an hour. They are very well made as are your projects. Thanks for sharing!
brinklebug posted:
Matthias. Consider me your #1 fan. This copy router is exactly what I'm looking for and thought I was getting when I made the panto router. No matter - I enjoyed making the panto router and will enjoy the copy router. Looking forward to your future projects.
I'm not the brightest brick in the tool pile and have a hard time learning. your vids are exalent.easy to follow along, thank you for finding the time to make them. I am learning despit my age, even do here in America
Amazing video and amazing explanation. Your channel and all your proyects are incredibly goods. Thank you a lot.
Yes, just like it says in the linked articles.
You say you don't have the patience to make a CNC??? You sir have the patience of a saint.!
Keep up the excellent work, we all appreciate your videos. Very informative and easy watching.
No dejo de quedar sorprendido por su destreza... Felicitaciones desde Vzla.
Extremely good designing. One of the best that I have seen on UA-cam.I was actually thinking of making something similar, but your video gave me some great ideas. Thank you for posting. God bless.
It takes years for hearing to get damaged. Years of lots of noise, not the occasional bit of loud noise.
Outstanding! Thank you for sharing your skills/knowledge with us!
Nice video technique plus good craftsmanship. You make them both seem easy. Great job!
you are such a genius master Matthias
felicitaciones matias muy buen trabajo y muy bien explicado espero mas trabajos tuyos saludos desde argentina
This is awesome piece of kit for any workshop.
Cheers
Tim from wood 4 nothing
Wendro.digain
MATHIAS, thanks, I appreciate your time for share, a wonderfully proyect at lower price,blessing to you and all around you
Nice video, Matthias!
I am always watching your videos with interest...
Gratuliere!
Try the URL at the end of the video. or the one in the description.
Nice video! Great work, I love your explanations for adjustments and the like.
muito bom, parabéns por você compartilhar o seu conhecimento...
Gracias por los subtitulos en español, es un privilegio ver sus videos, saludos.
Try the URL at the end of the video, or the one in the description.
That was a lot of effort with a great result!
vc realmente e o cara vc e um genio mesmo sou seu fa de carteirinha fis esta sua maquina ai e deu certinho ,fiz mais outras e tambem deu tudo certo,obrigado por postar estes vidios tao bons e com a qualidade de imagem em hd perfeito k DEUS sempre te abençoe.
Nice project.
It looks as if it would easily scale to a larger width for larger projects too; as long as it was kept rigid with bracing.
You did a very nice job on mounting those bearings with a mitre cut.
I haven't seen that before.
If you have trouble sourcing Rollerblade wheels, an R6-2RS bearing is 3/8" ID and most bearing suppliers stock them. I think I paid about $1 each or so last time.
Great watch as always Matthias.
Thanks
Absolutely great video! Well done!
fantastic work !! I wish I could have a go at making this I will download the plans just to give u my money for all that hard work well done ! fantastic !!
Молодец МАСТЕР!!! Привет из Москвы
Mathias on a regular CNC we would have a "roughing pass" using a larger endmill and a "finish pass" using typically a 1/8th" ballnose. I would say if you had interchangable smaller follower heads using smaller bits you could get finer details. All in all another example of the reason you should be crowned the "McGyver" of the woodshop! Good job.
Awesome project! I buyed your plans right now, seven years late!! Really impressive project, simple and efficencent. I will proceed to build it asap, let me know if you had some improvement during last years! Tks, subscribed and liked!!
That depends on how accurate you want it and how accurate you make it. For fiddly bits, the pantograph is more suitable..
I'm toying around with the Gingery series of books and a CNC router made of wood... now THAT would be an interesting project.
You are hell of a genius!
Hello from Russia. Thank you for your videos, very informative.
Simply Ginnie, thank you for sharing it
That planed wood is just so much more professional than what I can use.
Genius at work! Thank you!!! Great instructional video.
The finished piece looks really good! I commented on the last video with suggestions to use linear ball bearings, and just to further clarify, I suggest that you should use it to guide the large shaft and NOT the whole rig. The stuff you do with the 90° tilted ball bearings in order to guide the whole jig is great, and using linear ball bearings here would be overkill, and possibly less accurate. However, for guiding the sideways movement along the large shaft I would still recommend linear BBs.
now there's an awesome build great job man (y)
Have lots of kids! That's really remarkable work - thanks!
Thanks dude! Great job.
Complimenti Mattias..sei un genio
great job man really like it!
Im from Iowa, and I understand his instructions... If you have a problem with figuring it out in inches get a metric tape measure
This machine will be super cool to have and have a carved sign making business!
This was great! well, just like every video of yours.
It's nice to end my weekend with a nice, informative video :)
Thnx for posting
Works great, as always good job.
i love your videos,,,, really informative,,,, simply amazing...
I think he just mastered those skills to where it's just all precise, quick and machineless haha
That duplicator is so awesome that I will subscribe to your channel! No, wait! I already AM subscribed! Thumb’s up is the best I can do.
Me gustan tus proyectos, tu creatividad e inventiva.
You make awesome videos!
I really like the way you think. Excelent project.
continuo admirando os teus videos eles são fantásticos, um abraço.
Agreed. There are times when you just have to shake your head and say to yourself "I can't believe this is the one that got through." LOL
Te Felicito cada vez me descrestas mas con tus videos
Try it! I'd love to see it soon. Hope you're gonna overcome Matthias' concerns about calibration. However I share his view a little bit. Although the lateral tilting would be nice, you can still use his original design to have a second undercut. How? Just use two secondary base plates, one for the original object, one for the copy piece and mark both identical with two points. Having done the Y-tilting, you can turn both by 90deg, use the points to adjust and start "X"-tilting. Hope it's clear.
me ha parecido esplendido
y tambien de gran utilidad
Yes, GKF 600. But Called a Bosch Colt in North America.
i dont know what u are doing at first. After 9:00, i find that u are genius of wood!
Wooo..hasilnya bagus sekali...saya suka idenya
great video Mathias as always. You might consider using a simple cast urethane or even 2 part epoxy for making your following tips. simply plunge the original router bit into a material to make the mold then cast it with the plastic. voila they are perfect. they can be easily threaded and made to be easily changed out with bit changes.
gerald
you are one smart dude!
Another Great Project....There are some of us that are waiting for a Lathe Project jig or Add-on
estan muy buenisimos para optimisar el trbajo muy oportuno
I think not having the parallelogram would also allow more complicated shapes, holding the router vertical would only allow vertical projections to be carved. the tilting looked like it would be handy to get underneath things that had some height off the table. Very cool piece of kit!
Hi Matthias, great video and nice build.
@ 6:38 i got the impression that the router holding board was little tilted towards the back, so I suppose that the difference in mesures between right and left was cause you took the second measurement on the board protrusion of couple cm on the router mount .
Just a tought :)
Thanks alot for sharing your nice videos
very good ,you are such genius,thank you for video
Exelente. Buen proyecto. Trataré de repriducirlo, me interesa mucho .Amigo por casulidad tienes planos que pudieras compartir conmigo?
Saludos desde Chile
Un abrazo
I think its time to go CNC.
I would love your shopbot ideas.
But now you have to make one for each size that Fitzall can do... make one that's adjustable next time, LOL... Nice work I've read and watched lots of your stuff very innovative (ref: marble machines) Keep it up!
I like the concept. You could incorporate a way to spin the original and the blank and turn this into a router lathe duplicator. This would give it the capability to carve in the round, as well as quickly replicate spindles, baseball bats, gun stocks, etc. The possibilities are endless.
Thanks Matthias for a amazing project. Please can you tell me what sw do you use for yours project? Thanks a lot. Ennio (Italy)
Dear Matthias, Thanks for yet another great video! What software do you use to make your plans? I like how you have the ability to animate along constrants (something Sketchup can't do). Thanks! :)
all your videos is fantastic, i hope can will meet you. because your is my idol.
wow.. love all ur vids. i would like to start working on woods.. atleast for a hobby.
power tools are expensive in india.. :( ..
Yes, but up/down would be reversed. Which means either your model or your carved object would have to be mounted upside down. Also, the follower or the router would have to be mounted from below the axis of tilt, which makes for a nasty complicated mechanism. And to top it all off, it would produce a mirror image of the original.
I wish you would build a CNC Router. I know there are videos on youtube already but I am certain that if you made one it would be a great video with a ton of useful info.
Very nice!
You sir are a genious. !
I use a nice little thing when i use screws in wood. once i put the screws in i back them out and add a generous amount of super glue. not to hold the screw but it hardens the wood almost like steel.
Matthias, I have seen many of your videos and I look great and very didactic, congratulations and rising more videos like these.
Although I would like to know steps to a router with a minidrill copying dremel type, I do not speak English but I have the google translator that seems pretty good. A big hello from Barcelona, Spain, Orlando Reinoso
Hi,Mattias Wandel!.Thank you for all the info on your site.How to build a dust collection sistem the same as you.Good luck to you always and everywhere.
Amazing job
Great! Might need one too. What if I wish to get a copy, say, 2mm heigher than the original? Will it work by making the router bit 2mm higher than the rod on the other side?
Yes, and that wrench would work too. But that's not the point.
I'm thinking an adjustable depth limiter would be a useful addition, especially for the initial rough-out. It would avoid any unintentional deep plunges (especially with a ball cutter or anything else that could get hung up in an undercut).
HOla Mathtias, gusto en saludarte campeón!
que programa usas para hacer el 3d?
Gracias, muy amable!
Great video.
Hi Matthias, would you be able to use your your panta router or maybe your copy carver to trim crown molding that would normally be be cut with a coping saw to make a corner joint.
Well done...it is one of the most useful video that I have ever seen.
and I have a question: Is that possible to add more head to carver more thing as a multi head? because it is made by wood and I am wondering if it can tolerance the weight of extra motors?
The alignment checks were interesting. Now that you have done that once, would you make any changes to the design to allow for easier alignment? In any case, another interesting build from Matthias' infinite workshop! Have you ever considered using aluminum stock or extrusions for some of the parts?
that's really cool.
Hey Matthias... do you switch out the bits to smaller and smaller sizes for more detail as you go? Would you then need multiple matching followers as well? Thanks for another fantastic idea!!
We're both. Mostly metric, but for most construction stuff and dimensioned lumber, we still use feet and inches. (And that's mostly good. The sorts of fractions one normally works in with wood - halves, quarters and eighths, as well as thirds for panel materials like plywood and drywall - are easier in Imperial.) It does mean having two sets of drill bits, two sets of wrenches, and often making two passes with a 6mm chisel to clean out a 1/4" mortise, but we cope.
Просто и доступно👍👍👍👌
Hey Matt, dig yer designs. Looks like you're using 10 layer plywood. Where do you get that? Not @ Home Depot or Lowes, possibly custom wood supplier? I know you are in Canada and the 2X4s you use are very good quality as well, (clear w/o many knots). Is it a territorial thing? The stuff we have down in the states is very knotty as well as warped. Maybe just the stock they get into Calif.
Excellent machine Matthias. I wonder if you could incorporate a sort of adjustable depth stop which would allow you to carve the copy in planes of 3mm or so? This would help prevent the tool snatching too deeply. Or is this just a solution looking for a problem? (Thanks for introducing me to Sketchup by the way).