Vermont Castings Defiant Encore 0028 Refurbish
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- 1988 Vermont Castings Defiant Encore Model #0028. This stove was badly needing a refurbish. New fireback kit was installed, including catalyst, new gaskets, and stove cement to seal it back up. Finish was wire wheeled* to remove rust, then cleared with spray on Rust-Oleum high temp 2000 F. Loved the look on the clear.
* Note: a wire wheel will not remove finish on porcelain coated stoves.
Where can you get all of the parts for the Vermont Castings Defiant? Thanks and great job! I'm having a tough time finding the gasket stripping that goes between the front glass and the iron doors, no one seems to carry that flat stuff?
I bought gasket material and stove cement at my local fireplace store, but you can find it on Amazon, do a search for "wood stove gasket rope". You'll just have to figure out what diameter. The thicker material goes around the top lid and doors, thinner gasket goes around glass.
@@Realkcode See that's the problem, it's not "gasket rope" it's the flat thin white gasket material between the glass and the iron front, not the door or any other rope gasket. Thanks though :)
Try www.stove-parts-unlimited.com
They have flat gasket material
@@Realkcode Thank you soooo much!!!
Awesome! I just picked up an overfired Encore for free yesterday! Mod#2140. Going to price some rebuild kits Soon and hopefully be ready for Winter.
That is a great job! We have a VC Defiant 2-N-1 model 1977, purchased new about ten years or so back. It does a great job. It is the very first model they made that will run with a converter, or you simply take the converter out and run it without if you choose to do so. I generally run it without the converter earlier in the cold weather, and once it gets what we call really cold, freezing at night sometimes, we put the converter back in for more heat. You can certainly tell a difference in wood used and heat produced with the converter in versus running without the converter. Your stove looks great and hopefully it will last you a lifetime. My old Vermont Castings stove is in the garage, it was purchased new in the early `80s and served me well, but the wife decided she did not like the style one day, and so we got a new one. That old one is still great, just not as pretty to look at.
Hopefully the converter last s a while. Expensive part. Using it only about 20 days a year in our cabin, hope to get a long life out of it. Draws better air with longer chimney, for the video I had only about 6 feet of stove pipe out in the driveway to test it. I have the side shelves installed now also.
We have the side shelves too with dragon shaped supports under the front of each shelf, all cast iron. We have our stove ducted into the fireplace and then adapted with a nice stainless oval flex pipe up through the fireplace damper through a block off plate that seals the room from the chimney. The flex pipe exits into the chimney and then the exhaust of course exits the chimney top. It is all very well engineered and well made of high quality materials and of course it utilizes our brick fireplace and chimney, but works so very much better. You will get good life out of that stove, they are great, just great stoves.
Your skill, work, and attention to detail produced a lovely result.
Thank you! We don't get to use it to often but it's a great stove if you don't mind having to be a little attentive until it gets going.
Can you get the refractory box out / to replace from the front by removing the fireback or does it have to come out the rear?
Where does the thermostat cable run mine broke and I’m in the process of replacing the fireback at the same time but I don’t know how to run the thermostat cable to secondary air
I was just given an older model Encore. It's left side damper is located toward the rear. The right side's is near the front.
What are the open and closed positions for each? I have tried all combinations of settings with unsatisfactory results. Is there another mechanism I am overlooking?
Thanks!
The left lever controls the damper for the catalyst bypass. Forward opens the damper (open the top like you should see it open). Lever moved towards back should close the damper causing air flow to go through the catalyst. The right lever is your air control, forward allows maximum air into stove, backward closes it. The air flow open is at the bottom read, you should see it open and close if you lay down and look into the small opening. Yours may have a heat shield on the back, but you can probably use you fingers to feel it open and close with the right lever. The air control has a metal coil that expands when it gets hot to automatically close off the air flow to try to regulate it. Works ok. Once mine gets going I usually run it with the right lever about 2/3 towards the back (2/3 closed). Takes some experimentation. Hope that helps!
If your dampers are not open and closing with the levers, you may have a broken cable. Fortunately mine were operational so I didn't have to disassemble more of the stove to replace them
@@Realkcode My primary air control cable broke. Any idea how to repair it?
Any chance you have a picture of the heat exchanger assembled?
Good video. What could be restricting my wash air on my new Defiant?
I'm having a problem trying to get a thermostat coil & rod assembly adjusted properly on a defiant encore model 2190. Thanks in advance for any information.
When it's cold the small door will still have a small opening. Should open completely with lever open, again, when it's cold.
Also where does the large heat shield go, when I install the new refractory it doesn’t fit with the fireback, is it necessary?
If you web search Vermont castings defiant encode 0028 on cozycabinsandfitrplace website they have an exploded view. I didn't get any pics putting that part(s) back together. The stainless steel heat shields protect from heat damage around the catalyst, which is 1000÷ degrees when operating. Hope you can figure it out!
What did you use for replacement of the glass gaskets. My 0028 has a wire gasket that is covered in fiberglass i think. Can you just use regular glass gasket in between the panes? Thanks
Used a gasket material I got from a local fireplace store. Looks like rope. Comes in different thicknesses, used thicker material around doors and lid. Cemented into place with stove cement. Took a bit of scraping to get rid of old material
Can you repaint an enamel coated wood stove? Can you just paint directly over the enamel? We have one, but do not like the enamel color and want to change it.
I have no idea. We have many many stoves, our main one is is a VC Defiant in green (chipped from 25 years of unrelenting good service) and I do know THE best stove paint is Stove Brite ...hands down for high temp application nothing else comes close.
I have the same stove and have taken a angle grinder with a wire cup brush to it and it is not removing the paint. Did you remove all the paint with the wire wheel or was most of the paint still on the stove prior to painting.
Yours probably has a baked enamel finish, wire wheel won't do it. Could try talking a part, like a door, to a place to media blast it
@@Realkcode Mine is exactly like yours. Don't they all have baked on enamels. When you say media blast do you mean sand blast it.
I cannot find the high temp clear Rust-Oleum paint you used on your stove. Where did you buy it.
Rust-Oleum Automotive 260771 11-Ounce 2000 Degrees High Heat Spray, Gloss Clear www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZLQ0JI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_folfCbT3MXXQ6
Great job! Did you move it with the small dolly in picture? I need to move mine a few feet on wood floors and don't know exactly how/where to place dolly. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
Moved it off dolly to test in driveway, makes moving around much easier. To answer your question, stove can be supported from the bottom, but be sure to remove the heat shield first if it has one. I just lifted one side and slid the dolly underneath.
Thanks for you video. Beautiful job. Perhaps you could help me. I'm trying to remove and replace an over-fired fireback like the one you show in your video. Can you tell me how you got the old fireback out? I've remove the bolts but the two part won't budge.
I removed the back of my stove as well, may try that too tap fireback from behind. I used a rubber mallet. Don't recommend a hammer, as cast iron can crack if hit hard enough. I'll look at mine next time I'm at my cabin and post if I get any other ideas
Same here! Did you have any luck? We cannot get the old fireback out and we don't want to remove the entire thing!
Did you remove all the paint or just rust only and did you use primer before the clear.
Clear on base, rust free metal
Clear on base. Does that mean no paint at all on stove
clear on base. Does that mean you took all the old paint off before clear coating it.
What is the clear color finish, matte, satin or semi gloss. Do you have the number on the can.
Nice job. I have the same stove that someone gave me. Did you use the flat black, satin, or gloss with the Rust-o-leum. Also did you wire it down to the bare metal and then paint it with no primer and then clear coat it after painting it or paint only.
Greg Brooks Wire wheeled to remove rust and any old finish. Sprayed clear directly on bare metal to get that look. Finish bakes on when stove is fired. Nice thing is that it can easily be touched up if anything gets scuffed while installing. Top griddle wasn't cleared, just seasoned with oil like you would a cast iron pan.
When you say you sprayed clear on stove do you mean a clear finish over the original black finish or did you spray it with black and then clear coat it. The last time I painted mine I used Rust-o-leum satin black and brushed it on because the stove was indoors.
Greg Brooks sprayed clear directly on bare metal. No old paint, no new paint. Stripped down to bare metal, cleared. That's it. No primer or paint used other than clear
So you used High Temp. clear rust-o-leum on bare metal. How does it look so black with just clear on it.
Greg Brooks . Metal takes on a bit darker look once sprayed like it would if you put water on a rock or your driveway. You can see if you like the look by doing a leg or a spot on the back, can always strip it later if you don't like it.
Great Video. I have an Encore 2550 (1995) and got bad service from it last year, so I'm rebuilding it this summer. I already broke a bolt within the log chamber as I was unscrewing it. Way too tight. I guess it was welded in after 20+ years of heat. Any idea how to get bolt shank out? I'm afraid to unscrew other bolts, so I'm stuck. Also, where to buy parts at reasonable cost? Prices online are crazy!
Should I take the entire unit apart piece by piece, or just clean it thoroughly and replace only this parts I see needing replacement? Also glass won't clean... any suggestions, other than buying new glass? Thank you for your video and help!
The bolts are not hardened. So you can drill them out easily. Use a center punch first so that the drill bit does not wander. Sometimes the broken bolt will come out as you are drilling. If not, then step up the drill size, and continue to drill a larger diameter hole. You can use a bolt extractor. I recommend using a tap to clean the threads up before installing new bolts. Make sure you do not use hardened bolts, else you will make future repairs much more difficult.
To clean the glass use ash and a damp paper towel, works wonders.
Did you remove all the paint on the whole stove
Hmmmmmm, a very expensive project!
Thank you for filming this. I have about the same stove and its about 10 yrs old. When I have a good fire in the main box, the flame seems to be pulled down into the rear chamber and the pipe temp gets over 500 degrees and it seems that heat is going up the chimney and not into the room. I can't see anything obviously wrong with the stove, the gaskets are good and I can choke it down when I want to. This one doesn't have the catalytic element in it the way yours does, but it does have the damper on the left side like yours. I'm tempted to take it apart this summer and see if its worn out inside the back out of direct vision. What do you think. You are now the expert since you've been there and done that. Hope to hear from you.
Do you have the model number of your stove? I'm not sure why you would have a bypass/diverter lever but no catalyst.
Its an Encor non-catalytic woodturning stove Model 1450 Tried to send a picture of the manual, but I guess i can't reply with a picture. Bought in 2008 and burn about 5 cords a year in it. I think that I will probably take it apart this spring and see if any interior parts need replacing.
Jim Fiorentino . Your chimney pipe is 500+ what's the temp of the stove? Seems awfully hot for the pipe. I keep the stove top guage under 600, usually try to keep it around 500. You have a secondary combustion, just without the catalyst. Sounds like your damper isn't closing properly in the back. May have a lot of ash collected inside the back of it also, can be vacuumed out if you can get at it with a narrow hose. Let me know how it goes.
8 hrs burn time after engaging cat, at 500 degrees thats impressive. Guess its time for rebuild of my 0028
I've had enough coals after 10 hours to restart it. I cheat a little after emptying the ash bin by holding the ash bin door open a crack to get fire restarted.
Does the 1988 model have fire bricks in front of the fireback. I have the Defiant 1999 model and they have the fire bricks in front on the fireback. Just didn't see them on your nice rebuild.
No firebrick in this model.
From researching stoves it seems the fire bricks would be more beneficial if you had a plate steel stove, but the cast iron provides better thermal properties. I wouldn't want to add them to this stove because I don't see any extra heat retention being worth the trade off in less volume for wood. The video was testing the stove outside with about 6 ft of stove pipe. One installed in our cabin with about 10 ft of pipe, i can get it dialed in with the catalyst engaged and have a hot bed of coals after 8-9 hours. Very happy with it
Dang bobbeh that thing looks niiiice
should of used stove paint not regular spray paint.
Nice Work!
looks good
Thanks. Still working good in our cabin.