You're the first person I've seen who's tested silk filament so thoroughly. The results were pretty similar to what I've observed, PLA+ and the silk have similar mechanical properties but the silk has worse layer adhesion. It's nice to be able to put some numbers to it. Thank you for this. Very cool to see 3D printing is alive and well in my family's motherland! :)
Working on Creeping test, only I have to solve the problem, how to read values from digital dial indicator with arduino (data logger), since this test may take several hours or days.. to follow the deformation under small constant load.
OUTSTANDING DEDICATION!!! Thank you, I been watching your videos and very much appreciate how in-depth you break everything down. Keep up the great work!
Outstanding test protocols. There is no substitute for good data. I am surprised at how well the silk pla performed. I look forward to benchmark testing of their normal pla as well. Keep up the good work!
Excellent test experiment. Thank You for your time and information. I just recently purchased a roll of the PLS-ST and have not had time to try it yet. We do quite a bit of printing using strong abrasive filaments. We always test print our structural models first with the cheaper eSun PLA+. We have learned is to use a higher than recommended temperatures and slower print speeds with the PLA+. With those 2 settings our PLA+ test prints have much stronger characteristics. usually with our CR-10s Pro and an all metal hot end with hardened nozzle our settings are print speed set at 45, 228c on the hot end and 60c for the glass bed. I think you should give this a try just to see how it works out...
😅I am going with eSUN PLA+ filament, really liked it. Thanks for the video man. 👍
Рік тому+1
Thanks for the great video, I subscribed to your channel and I believe this channel has a great future and will find its place among the others like Stefan’s CNC Kitchen and such.
Congratulations Igor your doing amazing with these videos. You are the only one I trust. Please do a comparison of esun Abs + or even a review. It's the most used filament in the voron and many other communities however no one really knows it's glass transition temperature or many other factors about it. Just it is known to be the easiest abs to print with consistent results at an affordable cost
Thanks Aly, but I am sure that you can trust to several other UA-camrs too (I do). I am preparing Creeping test, which may be interesting to Voron users (see CNC kitchen voron zero video). ABS will be tested too (I don't have eSun abs so far or ABS+). Is exactly this brand most popular? eSun ABS+? Or it can be different ABS or ASA?
@@MyTechFun it's a hard filament to explain, it feels like a cross between esuns pla + and regular Abs. It didn't vapour smooth which leads me to believe well it's diluted, however it retains many abs like properties, it depends to fail more like PetG then abs but I haven't tested it for high temp useage as I use the Esun CF nylon for anything I need to handle high temps but it's so cheap and gives consistent results
i love your channel with good data, for a basic understanding personaly I make tool parts, and at first i used Esun pla+ and they was great and the finish was good to and now i use Esun pla st , my parts are far better looking with a crisper finish, and stronger i use heat of 218 on my enders 3 v2 with pla st if you go above the ambiant temperature of its melting point it does become less stronger. and that is the same with all filaments Meaning if not hot enough then no good bonding and if to high then your cooking it so find the correct tempeture of your fillament by testing with a calibration model as even a 3 degree differnece will change it properties also the infill types and patterns for the model required makes a lot of difference to. There are so many varients to settings for what model one needs to acheive, and the scope is to try what is pefect for the requirments of your model these test are only an insight for what has been done to this model 10 years i have been using differant brands and types . of pla and can say Esun is the best for the MONEY. One thing i can say is good about this test. is that you can see just what has been done with his model and an old saying , dont judge a book by its cover.
Thank you for this mechanical impact oriented test. Chanel sub ! A big issue on most silk filaments is the layer adhesion, especially if you print objects like vases in one perimeter. So i wonder if the e-sun silk filament is an improvement there? My conclusion on silky filaments (i tested) is that they are only good for models to look at but not to use.
Hi, excellent video, do you think if I print with Pla+, will a piece kept indoors in the summer that is sometimes hit by the sun's rays through the window, will it deform?
pla st seems to be way more flexible than pla+ So i can see why they call it super tough. PLA-ST is more capable of bending and PLA+ is more likely to break. I'm not sure how that would work as far as mechanical prototyping parts. I think PLA+ might make a better stronger part for rigid objects but PLA- ST would be better for casing or anything where there will be many sudden impacts and the surface needs to absorb or flex with a motion
Inside a car plastic parts are usually from ABS (injection molded). Try ABS or ASA. If you can't print them, try PETG, but it may deform on very hot day.
I did, I also have it recorded (but not included in this video). If you want, I can upload somewhere. I alse tested it with 1 kg hammer too (not in video). Calculation is +/- 10% on the spot.
@@null643 Make sure your bed is extremely level. I found that card stock works the best like a business card at .02 mm. Also make sure bed is heated to 60c when leveling. Make sure there is no oil on the bed. Wash the glass with dish detergent to clean off oil and don't touch the glass, Good luck!
hey man, Im quite new to 3d printing ( 1 week in ) and Im using ESUN PLA+ too. I noticed that I am getting some stringing even with retraction on (6mm with 45mm/s). Since you use the same filament can you let me know if you have been facing the same problem?
@@s_y_305 I don't know what printer are you using 1) Check the temperatures 2) I am using direct drive, you probably using some bowden style with 6mm retraction. Check if bowden sube is good fixed on both sides, not moving at all. No other idea why stringing
@@MyTechFun thanks man, I actually checked both of them and they seemed fine to me. The funny thing that I realized though is that when I reduced retraction from 6 to 5, I got an overall better quality but the stringing is still there. I guess I need to both increase and decrease my settings in order to check if the performance is getting better. (I used to think that only increasing the settings will yield better results). Oh and I am using a creality ender 3
@@s_y_305 I've had problems with eSun PLA+. With generic PLA temp of 200 I get problems with bed adhesion, with eSun 210 I get stringing. Using cura and Ender 3 v2
Application examples: PLA-ST: bumber for RC car, but don't forget it inside a car or on the stronges sun, max 50°C PLA+: Stronger than PLA (less brittle) and significantly better layer adhesion, technical parts which will be loaded in layer direction too eSilk: where mechanical strength is not important, but you need nice, shiny object
If you want to get the perfect settings, look up the perfect settings for esun PLA or PLA+ and there will be a few Reddit posts of all the exact settings for best results😈
How does eSun PLA compare to PolyTerra PLA, eSun PLA+ compare to PolyLite PLA, eSun PLA-ST compare to PolyMax PLA, eSun PLA-LW compare to PolyWood? Basically Esun VS Polymaker lol (would be a great video)
Wow, so many questions, but slowly I want to move to stronger material testing (PETG, ABS, Nylon...). eSun will send me PLA-LW, but it will be tested compared to itself (printed on different temperatures, different density).
@@MyTechFun yeah stronger materials would be great also, im just wondering the difference between all these PLA, do you think you can do the same video with the 5 different PLA from Polymaker? (and maybe other brand, but I only see 2 brands with so many different kind of PLA) Anyway all your content is great :)
We're they all printed at the same print settings? Because half of those tests are pointless unless you know that you are printing that particular type of PLA at its absolute best. Meaning, you should be testing each type of filament against "Itself", until you find the right settings that give you the best possible result for that type of filament, and then using those settings to print test parts to test against the other filaments. And every type of PLA should have its own most optimal print settings for your tests off your specific printer. Then, and only then, can you be sure you are giving them each a fair test. because for all you know, a 5c difference in temperature could be the difference between it beating or failing against the other filaments, and you can't be sure SILK and ST have the same optimal print temp until you can prove it, and not settle with what you have just because it looks like it printed properly.
You're the first person I've seen who's tested silk filament so thoroughly. The results were pretty similar to what I've observed, PLA+ and the silk have similar mechanical properties but the silk has worse layer adhesion. It's nice to be able to put some numbers to it. Thank you for this. Very cool to see 3D printing is alive and well in my family's motherland! :)
Where are you from? I agree that this is the only video that I have seen that details a comparison between Silk and PLA+
The effort here is amazing, please include a creeping test.
Working on Creeping test, only I have to solve the problem, how to read values from digital dial indicator with arduino (data logger), since this test may take several hours or days.. to follow the deformation under small constant load.
@@MyTechFun awesome news
OUTSTANDING DEDICATION!!! Thank you, I been watching your videos and very much appreciate how in-depth you break everything down. Keep up the great work!
Outstanding test protocols. There is no substitute for good data. I am surprised at how well the silk pla performed. I look forward to benchmark testing of their normal pla as well. Keep up the good work!
I just ran across your video. Fantastic job, best I’ve seen at testing.
I appreciate the work you put into your videos. Thank you for the information and detail.
Many thanks for the detailed test of these filament!
Good job, great comparison of PLA
Again a great test. eSun has also TPU/TPE with different hardness. This could be interesting too.
Great comparison! Thanks much for your hard work!
Awesome video!
Thanks so much for the hard work.
Excellent test experiment. Thank You for your time and information.
I just recently purchased a roll of the PLS-ST and have not had time to try it yet.
We do quite a bit of printing using strong abrasive filaments. We always test print our structural models first with the cheaper eSun PLA+.
We have learned is to use a higher than recommended temperatures and slower print speeds with the PLA+. With those 2 settings our PLA+ test prints have much stronger characteristics. usually with our CR-10s Pro and an all metal hot end with hardened nozzle our settings are print speed set at 45, 228c on the hot end and 60c for the glass bed.
I think you should give this a try just to see how it works out...
Great testing methods. Thank you.
this content is very useful and fun to learn, thx!!
Great comparison!
Love your test video's!
😅I am going with eSUN PLA+ filament, really liked it. Thanks for the video man. 👍
Thanks for the great video, I subscribed to your channel and I believe this channel has a great future and will find its place among the others like Stefan’s CNC Kitchen and such.
Nice Test
Congratulations Igor your doing amazing with these videos. You are the only one I trust. Please do a comparison of esun Abs + or even a review. It's the most used filament in the voron and many other communities however no one really knows it's glass transition temperature or many other factors about it. Just it is known to be the easiest abs to print with consistent results at an affordable cost
Thanks Aly, but I am sure that you can trust to several other UA-camrs too (I do). I am preparing Creeping test, which may be interesting to Voron users (see CNC kitchen voron zero video). ABS will be tested too (I don't have eSun abs so far or ABS+). Is exactly this brand most popular? eSun ABS+? Or it can be different ABS or ASA?
It's the Esun Abs + in particular that is recommended in the discord and forums. I'd genuinely happily order you a reel if you would like
@@alycapo3391 I'll see if eSun wants this video to be continued. If not, then I will buy it myself, you woke up my curiosity for this filament.
@@MyTechFun it's a hard filament to explain, it feels like a cross between esuns pla + and regular Abs. It didn't vapour smooth which leads me to believe well it's diluted, however it retains many abs like properties, it depends to fail more like PetG then abs but I haven't tested it for high temp useage as I use the Esun CF nylon for anything I need to handle high temps but it's so cheap and gives consistent results
i love your channel with good data, for a basic understanding
personaly I make tool parts, and at first i used Esun pla+ and they was great and the finish was good to
and now i use Esun pla st , my parts are far better looking with a crisper finish, and stronger
i use heat of 218 on my enders 3 v2 with pla st if you go above the ambiant temperature of its melting point it does become less stronger.
and that is the same with all filaments
Meaning if not hot enough then no good bonding and if to high then your cooking it so find the correct tempeture of your fillament by testing with a calibration model
as even a 3 degree differnece will change it properties
also the infill types and patterns for the model required makes a lot of difference to.
There are so many varients to settings for what model one needs to acheive,
and the scope is to try what is pefect for the requirments of your model
these test are only an insight for what has been done to this model
10 years i have been using differant brands and types . of pla and can say Esun is the best for the MONEY.
One thing i can say is good about this test. is that you can see just what has been done with his model
and an old saying , dont judge a book by its cover.
Very interesting, excellent
Thank you for this mechanical impact oriented test. Chanel sub ! A big issue on most silk filaments is the layer adhesion, especially if you print objects like vases in one perimeter. So i wonder if the e-sun silk filament is an improvement there? My conclusion on silky filaments (i tested) is that they are only good for models to look at but not to use.
Very good tests , after all pla and pla+ is much more stronger than i think ...
Hi, excellent video, do you think if I print with Pla+, will a piece kept indoors in the summer that is sometimes hit by the sun's rays through the window, will it deform?
Tip: in your conclusion, maybe change the color of the bar charts to match the color of the filament. All 3 using the default blue isn't ideal.
What's your slicer? Did the slicer add the little support at the base of the vertical samples or are they modeled?
I use both PrusaSlicer and Cura. In this vid PrusaSlicer. Those supports are part of design. You can download stl from my website (link in desc.)
pla st seems to be way more flexible than pla+ So i can see why they call it super tough. PLA-ST is more capable of bending and PLA+ is more likely to break. I'm not sure how that would work as far as mechanical prototyping parts. I think PLA+ might make a better stronger part for rigid objects but PLA- ST would be better for casing or anything where there will be many sudden impacts and the surface needs to absorb or flex with a motion
Please test a filament made from ingeo 3D850 & 3D870 when you get a chance....thanks for your work and all the results!!!D
Thanks for the great video. What type of filament do you recommend for the car's decorative parts that are strong and last long in the sun?
Inside a car plastic parts are usually from ABS (injection molded). Try ABS or ASA. If you can't print them, try PETG, but it may deform on very hot day.
@@MyTechFun What do you think about carbon fiber nylon?
Can you repeat PLA-ST hammer test few more times? Just to be sure that the results are consistend.
I did, I also have it recorded (but not included in this video). If you want, I can upload somewhere. I alse tested it with 1 kg hammer too (not in video). Calculation is +/- 10% on the spot.
My favoritt filament seems great, eSun Pla+ is great and good value
I have a Sovol SV01 and the sweet spot for Esun pla+ is 213 and 65
@@null643 Make sure your bed is extremely level. I found that card stock works the best like a business card at .02 mm. Also make sure bed is heated to 60c when leveling. Make sure there is no oil on the bed. Wash the glass with dish detergent to clean off oil and don't touch the glass, Good luck!
I print using ESUN PLA+, and I've never heard of PLA-ST before. Also curious about PLA-LW variant.
PLA-LW ua-cam.com/video/AYZ2owbaJK0/v-deo.html
hey man, Im quite new to 3d printing ( 1 week in ) and Im using ESUN PLA+ too. I noticed that I am getting some stringing even with retraction on (6mm with 45mm/s). Since you use the same filament can you let me know if you have been facing the same problem?
@@s_y_305 I don't know what printer are you using 1) Check the temperatures 2) I am using direct drive, you probably using some bowden style with 6mm retraction. Check if bowden sube is good fixed on both sides, not moving at all. No other idea why stringing
@@MyTechFun thanks man, I actually checked both of them and they seemed fine to me. The funny thing that I realized though is that when I reduced retraction from 6 to 5, I got an overall better quality but the stringing is still there. I guess I need to both increase and decrease my settings in order to check if the performance is getting better. (I used to think that only increasing the settings will yield better results). Oh and I am using a creality ender 3
@@s_y_305 I've had problems with eSun PLA+. With generic PLA temp of 200 I get problems with bed adhesion, with eSun 210 I get stringing.
Using cura and Ender 3 v2
I’d love to see a comparison between 3D Fuel’s Pro PLA and eSun’s PLA+
I don't have fuels PLA, but I tested 16 other brands in one video. You may find that interesting too
He just tested 16 different brands.
Maybe you can do your own test.
Good grief...
@@dangerous8333 maybe if you could read you’d see he already brought that to my attention, good grief
eSUN: PLA-ST vs PLA+
VS
Polymaker: Polylite vs PolyMax
😏it would be a battle of legends~
It would be useful to elaborate about their applications
Application examples:
PLA-ST: bumber for RC car, but don't forget it inside a car or on the stronges sun, max 50°C
PLA+: Stronger than PLA (less brittle) and significantly better layer adhesion, technical parts which will be loaded in layer direction too
eSilk: where mechanical strength is not important, but you need nice, shiny object
why does it seem like PLA - ST isn't as strong as PLA+ ? odd.
PLA-ST has good impact resistance, but those components make other specs weaker.
Esun pla+ is great i print it at 210 and bed at 60
Hey, thanks for the video, but what the hell!? 40 degrees and deformation begins?!
If you want to get the perfect settings, look up the perfect settings for esun PLA or PLA+ and there will be a few Reddit posts of all the exact settings for best results😈
How does eSun PLA compare to PolyTerra PLA, eSun PLA+ compare to PolyLite PLA, eSun PLA-ST compare to PolyMax PLA, eSun PLA-LW compare to PolyWood?
Basically Esun VS Polymaker lol (would be a great video)
Wow, so many questions, but slowly I want to move to stronger material testing (PETG, ABS, Nylon...). eSun will send me PLA-LW, but it will be tested compared to itself (printed on different temperatures, different density).
@@MyTechFun yeah stronger materials would be great also, im just wondering the difference between all these PLA, do you think you can do the same video with the 5 different PLA from Polymaker? (and maybe other brand, but I only see 2 brands with so many different kind of PLA)
Anyway all your content is great :)
We're they all printed at the same print settings? Because half of those tests are pointless unless you know that you are printing that particular type of PLA at its absolute best. Meaning, you should be testing each type of filament against "Itself", until you find the right settings that give you the best possible result for that type of filament, and then using those settings to print test parts to test against the other filaments. And every type of PLA should have its own most optimal print settings for your tests off your specific printer. Then, and only then, can you be sure you are giving them each a fair test. because for all you know, a 5c difference in temperature could be the difference between it beating or failing against the other filaments, and you can't be sure SILK and ST have the same optimal print temp until you can prove it, and not settle with what you have just because it looks like it printed properly.