Flexible Made Sewn-On Endpaper // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- The standard cased book has tipped on folio endpapers. A great upgrade is to use sewn-on endpapers, and this video demonstrates a modern take on the common made endpaper; the flexible made endpaper.
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DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
00:00 Flexible Made Sewn-On Endpaper
00:45 Folding individual components
01:50 Tipping together
03:00 Adding waste sheets
05:12 Punching sewing holes
07:08 Sewing
09:44 Tipping first and last sections and endpapers
11:09 Removing waste sheet
12:04 Casing in
12:19 Tipping fore-edge of endpapers
My current price list including Japanese screw punches.
drive.google.com/file/d/1JcKB...
The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide.
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in this video is performed by Jon Sayles. Jon has some great classical guitar music on his website, which he shares freely. - Навчання та стиль
"Strongerer" is one of my favorite words, it can even be improved by adding "more" in front of it. I also typically leave a long tail of thread when I start a book because I never have the paper I want to make end papers. Never thought to hold off on the square knot and make a kettle knot after the rest of the book has been established. Solid PRO tip!
I learnt the going back and doing the kettle stitch from Kathy Abbott.
I've learned so much from you through your videos, I can't thank you enough. So much appreciation!
Love the idea of leaving a tail in the beginning to use for kettle stitch after the book is sewn. Never thought to do that! Thank you!!
Not my idea either. If you ever think you were the first to do something in bookbinding, you'll find out later you were wrong.
😂 strongererah!!!!! Love it! 🤣
I was paying attention! 😂
I just want to say thank you so much for these videos. Using the videos from this playlist, I have just completed my first rounded-and-backed cased book. It took a lot of time, and there are some beginner issues, but I'm very proud of how it turned out and I think it looks beautiful. I genuinely wouldn't have been able to do it without your wonderful instructional videos, so I sincerely thank you. (Also, I love the addition of Bach's music in the background - I'm a composer of classical music and consider Bach to be the greatest composer ever.) I hope you're doing well!!
That’s great. And Bach was the greatest composer of all time:)
There was a black spot on the paper that made me think that my phone was dirty, I do not know how many times I wiped the screen...
Great video as always!
I'll have to go back and look for this black spot.
Brillian thanks so much! I find making 'made' endpapers the most difficult of all the steps I have tried so far in bookbinding and have wasted so much paper with cockly or bubbly glued papers! cannot wait to try this out as an alternative. I also spotted that when closong the sewing you are now reversing the direction of the final half hitch tie off forming presumably a reef or square knot - overkill but very cool for those of us far enough up the Autistic spectrum! (meant entirely positively by te way). Brilliant!
I was just screwing with you on the double kettle stitch. My standard is still twice both from inside out. Yes that cockled paper thing can haunt some people. Trouble is I don't think there is one solution because it is paper and adhesive dependent. Too many variables. I nip for usually about 2 hours, then hang to dry over night and then while there is still some moisture in the paper I nip for at least a day. I use blotters when nipping and my pressing boards are uncoated and absorb moisture and I usually use 3 boards. Doing this I never get wrinkles. Most of the drying when there is dimensional change happens while under pressure. I think that is the key. But you have to do some drying in air or it will take forever.›
Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy - a DAS video!!!
Thank you for sharing!! I think this is exactly the technique I needed to elevate the book I'm assembling tonight, haha
As an artist that found this oddly specific issue in my sketchbooks and notebooks something of a bother, thank you. Now I can make prettier welcome page artwork!
I generally only do hollow back library style binds with split board attachment, however, this is the way I do my endpapers because of it's strength, this or the other fancy made endpapers that are sewn in using cloth hinges 💚
4:20 So the sewing is through two thicknesses of paper where the outer one is folded around the marbled and the white. When you tear out the waste, how likely is it that you rip the paper at the sewing rather than at the few millimetres further outboard where you want the rip? And does it matter? 🤔
9:08 Doing the kettle stitches consistently in a single direction or alternating gives different patterns. Will anyone but the bookbinder ever see this to make it something to do for decorative reasons? 🤔😊
It will tear right along the sewing. Don't think it matters at that point.
Great video Darryn! The flexible made endpaper is my go to sewn endpaper, I find it much less hassle than the stiff made endsheet. Do you know what the rationale behind tipping the marbled and white leaves together at the foredge only after the binding is finished rather than tipping the foredges together when the endpaper is being assembled at the beginning?
Yes, they sit together much better when done last. I did try tipping them when making them and there is enough differential movement during the making process for them to buckle (one of those, we'll that was obviously going to happen - why did I bother doing that experiment moments). And why not do it last. No advantage in doing it earlier.
absolutely love it!
Would love to see the video on loose guards. Use for sketch books where flat opening is helpful, also knowing it would be strongerer would be good too.
I'm obviously having a bad time at the moment - despite having watched it several times my brain, ears and eyes are just refusing to agree on what is happening. I may have to invest in some new glasses and perhaps a bigger screen (small laptop). I've done sewn-on endpapers before but the technique I used was much more basic and I don't think looked as good or gave as much strength.
It was really nice to see you on the iBookbinding live stream Darryn and get the benefit of your wealth of knowledge about the different bits of kit.
Hi das! How are you doing? Glad to see you back and I hope things are going well :3
👍
Cheerio!
I think I'm having a 'senior moment' here! Am I correct in saying that a white folio is essentially tipped onto both sides of the folded endpaper? The front outer leaf is then folded around, to the back. I can't quite work it out, as the visible paper is all white when folded.
Both on the inside and one leaf folded around to the front.
Hi! Thank you so much for your videos. Recently i decided to pick up bookbinding, and your channel is just a treasure trove of knowledge!
May i ask you a question on endpapers, if you don't mind? I want to try to make a text block out of scritta paper (50 gsm), but i'm worried the thin flyleaves will tear if i glue the endpapers directly to them. Would sewing endpapers on, like in this video, be a better option, specifically for lightweight paper text blocks?
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you! I have a question please. I am re-binding my Bible that currently has a soft cover. The part that terrifies me, are attaching end papers. I love this method of sewing them in, but what do I do with the "ready made" block made of the flimsiest pages. Funny how some find corners etc scary, yet my scariest parts are end papers! Can you recommend a solution for attaching end papers to this block?? Much appreciate all your videos xxx
I apologize if this question is already answered. If you are punching the endpapers and avoiding punching the marbled paper, Is there an advantage to leaving the marbled paper in place during the punching vs removing marbled papers, punching, and then replacing the marbled papers? Is it only a matter of greater productivity to leave the marbled papers in when punching the endpapers?
Loving your videos!
I bought some handmade marble paper so I will probably go for this approach.
I was looking at my LOTR book I'm currently reading to see how the endpaper is placed. It looks like they are using the first sheet of the first section of the text block as waste sheet. It is trimmed to a length of 3 cm and glued to the board. The colored sheet is then tipped to the second sheet of the first section and glued to the board. Is this a common technique in traditional bookbinding or is it more something used in mass market manufacturing?
Everything has been used by hand bookbinding at some point in the last 2000 years. Some of the hooked endpaper structures make me scratch my head. I'd be very surprised if the first leaf of the first section is put down under the pastedown. More likely it is a spine lining or another leaf folded back around the decorative folio. Or a loose guard.
Hello, can you post a clip explaining the weaving of books using the holes method with a drill
Do you mean side stabbing? What is often described at Japanese binding?
Yes can you do that?
When you tip the fore-dge of the end papers, this must be after trimming the book. I take it the moisture in the glue doesn't expand the paper to any noticeable extent? Is there any reason you didn't do it before trimming?
Very small tip line and it's straight PVA. Not much moisture. Yes, I want to the books in the absolute final state so the leaves lay together perfectly.
Does tipping the signatures together cause problems when you go to round and back?
No. It's been done that way a long time. If it caused issues then the lose guard would have been invented much sooner.