Another great video... So pleased that you kept the little mishap in, and more importantly, your thoughts on the possible causes for it.... We can learn so much more when problems arise, than when we simply still through a project without any issues... Looking forward to the final part of this interesting "mini-series"
Great stuff! I’m puzzled, though, why the decorative paper overlaps the cloth corners and spine, rather than being applied first on the whole boards. That way, the cloth would provide protection to the edges of the paper.
I get this question often and it's hard to answer because most people decide it would be better and are thus sceptical of the answer. So, what you should do is give it a try. It's not much material and it's just the case. Sometimes it's hard to believe something without seeing or trying it for yourself. But, here's my answer. The paper is more robust than it is given credit. Once laminated to the boards it is fairly tough. On older books you do see it wearing on the overlap and sometimes it will have grabbed and ripped. But as I demonstrated it can be hard to get the cloth on just where you want it. It is easier to get nice straight edges to the paper exactly where you want them placing the board paper. And it can hide little mistakes. Now the historical part. I believe this style of binding was developed to save on leather. It would have originally be done on laced-on boards bindings, before case bindings were invented, and the edges of the leather on the boards would have been far from a straight line. Wet leather stretches all over the place and there might be raggedness from the paring. The edge of the leather is covered up by the board paper. I've got some good examples of 19th century books where some very sloppy work has been covered by the board paper. Might be a video on this:) So there is some historical influence, but in the end I think it is the easier and more logical order of operation which ends up looking the best.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for this detailed explanation. I took your advice and tried it myself. It worked out perfectly for me. My books are more square now and it does look neater. Thank you!
Have you (or some other authority😊) experimented with lining the back of the case under the spine stiffener and across the groove to enhance the strength of the part of the book most subjected to fatigue damage? 🤔
I use 2 pairs at that bench. The chrome handled ones are some old scissors I got from a retired bookbinder. The black handled ones I bought from Ernest Wright. But I think they've stopped making bookbinders shears, which is a shame. www.ernestwright.co.uk
Great video, as always! Thank you for detailing your thought process when things go wrong - that's always so helpful to see. I have a question - I had an issue with a case of this style where the paper was much thinner than the cloth and did not have a pattern, so it showed the line of the cloth very clearly through the paper. I had a number of other issues with that particular case, so I remade it and addressed the visible line issue by applying a separate, slightly thicker paper only under where the paper would touch the board, to fill in the height. This worked fairly well but made it slightly more difficult to apply the cover paper, as I was then worried about both papers wrinkling when I applied my glue. I'm wondering if there was a better solution I did not think of, or if you'd have a different way of addressing that issue.
Filling in is absolutely the solution to your problem. I usually fill in with a thin card which does not stretch much and easy to position. The main thing to do to stop wrinkles is to let the paper relax before applying. If it continues to "stretch" after applying, this is when you can get wrinkles. But a fully relaxed thin paper will have a strong pull that will need a draw sheet to counter on the inside. This is a good question. I might use it in the next Q&A video.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you! If I'm in that position in the future, I'll try using thin card instead of paper, that sounds like it would help a lot. I appreciate all of your educational content!
Another great video... So pleased that you kept the little mishap in, and more importantly, your thoughts on the possible causes for it.... We can learn so much more when problems arise, than when we simply still through a project without any issues... Looking forward to the final part of this interesting "mini-series"
i love making books and all but i love these videos and the time i get to spend here learning from DAS even more.
once again, great work! Love seeing all come together. You vids are a big help to me as a starting bookbinder! Thnx!!
My source of inspiration.
Indeed! Just finished sewing some headbands here, so happy he started making videos again! 🐄🛸
So glad you're back doing videos!!!
I love the sound of the sped-up gluing! 😀
Thank you, this was very helpful! Looking forward to the next part.
Dry bindery may cause some problems, but something tells me you'd pick that over the opposite any day of week ;)
love it!
Great stuff! I’m puzzled, though, why the decorative paper overlaps the cloth corners and spine, rather than being applied first on the whole boards. That way, the cloth would provide protection to the edges of the paper.
Yes, i wondered about that too..
Exposed paper edges are far less noticeable than exposed bookcloth edges. At least that’s my guess! It may just be a convention
I get this question often and it's hard to answer because most people decide it would be better and are thus sceptical of the answer. So, what you should do is give it a try. It's not much material and it's just the case. Sometimes it's hard to believe something without seeing or trying it for yourself.
But, here's my answer. The paper is more robust than it is given credit. Once laminated to the boards it is fairly tough. On older books you do see it wearing on the overlap and sometimes it will have grabbed and ripped.
But as I demonstrated it can be hard to get the cloth on just where you want it. It is easier to get nice straight edges to the paper exactly where you want them placing the board paper. And it can hide little mistakes.
Now the historical part. I believe this style of binding was developed to save on leather. It would have originally be done on laced-on boards bindings, before case bindings were invented, and the edges of the leather on the boards would have been far from a straight line. Wet leather stretches all over the place and there might be raggedness from the paring. The edge of the leather is covered up by the board paper. I've got some good examples of 19th century books where some very sloppy work has been covered by the board paper. Might be a video on this:)
So there is some historical influence, but in the end I think it is the easier and more logical order of operation which ends up looking the best.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for this detailed explanation. I took your advice and tried it myself. It worked out perfectly for me. My books are more square now and it does look neater. Thank you!
Inspirational !
Have you (or some other authority😊) experimented with lining the back of the case under the spine stiffener and across the groove to enhance the strength of the part of the book most subjected to fatigue damage? 🤔
The best and most professional way to "cut corners!" I love it! What type/brand of those metal scissors did you use?
I use 2 pairs at that bench. The chrome handled ones are some old scissors I got from a retired bookbinder. The black handled ones I bought from Ernest Wright. But I think they've stopped making bookbinders shears, which is a shame.
www.ernestwright.co.uk
Would you use the same materials for boards and spine stiffener if you’d use leather instead of cloth for spine and corners? 🤔
Yes. This grey board is fine for half covering style in leather. Not the pull of a full leather binding.
Should this video perhaps be added to the playlist "Rounded and Backed Cased Book"?
Done. Thanks.
Wouldn't it be easier to put the paper on first and then the bool cloth? Is there a reason to do it in this order?
No. You should give it a go to see why. It's the best way to convince yourself. Or maybe you discover a better way of doing it.
@@DASBookbinding lol, I could do it and mess it up. Or, I could just listen to you, which I will. I was just curious.
Great video, as always! Thank you for detailing your thought process when things go wrong - that's always so helpful to see.
I have a question - I had an issue with a case of this style where the paper was much thinner than the cloth and did not have a pattern, so it showed the line of the cloth very clearly through the paper. I had a number of other issues with that particular case, so I remade it and addressed the visible line issue by applying a separate, slightly thicker paper only under where the paper would touch the board, to fill in the height. This worked fairly well but made it slightly more difficult to apply the cover paper, as I was then worried about both papers wrinkling when I applied my glue. I'm wondering if there was a better solution I did not think of, or if you'd have a different way of addressing that issue.
Filling in is absolutely the solution to your problem. I usually fill in with a thin card which does not stretch much and easy to position. The main thing to do to stop wrinkles is to let the paper relax before applying. If it continues to "stretch" after applying, this is when you can get wrinkles. But a fully relaxed thin paper will have a strong pull that will need a draw sheet to counter on the inside.
This is a good question. I might use it in the next Q&A video.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you! If I'm in that position in the future, I'll try using thin card instead of paper, that sounds like it would help a lot. I appreciate all of your educational content!
All this work might be done without any boring measurements - simply put book block between boards. Use light wooden press or suitable weight.
I'll stick to my approach I think.
@@DASBookbinding Ok.