#12 WAVES WITH THE WORST PADDLE OUTS, HOW LONG A PRO CAN ACTUALLY SURF FOR, SUN PROTECTION!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Episode 12! Nate and koa jump right into it! Going over the recent world pro bells tour event, our worst paddle out situations, unconscious body rescues and the insane endurance that a lifetime of surfing can give you in the ocean!
Alexandria Florence! Would be awesome to hear her experience raising 3 boys on the North Shore, making ends meat, and how it all worked out
That needs to be a documentary. Stud of a person.
Definitely would be very inspiring to know how she did it and how she centred her life around surfing after being raised in a non surfer’s family, while trying not to be to intrusive though
Agree … she could also shed interesting light upon how surfing the NS has evolved over the decades. (I only know of the 60’s as a teen)
That would be amazing! I would love to hear her story
Meat
Don't change a thing! What it is is why we love it. Its great seeing you sit around in your normal spaces. Voting, NO STUDIO! ❤
Right. Maybe a tighter set, but comfortable, no distractions... what the great winning element is you two bros are simple/honest/young/happy, pro free-surfers from Pipe North Shore... no other podcast is as cool. Keep it real.
I second this
J.O.B. is cool and good at what he does, but I don't enjoy his podcast. Mostly because of his set and format. It's well structured and produced, but it feels like it's done at KITV news studio. Yours is organic. In no way are you "chasing the buck" and that is the best format for our groms today. Aloha Friday Boyz🤙
@@derekforeal2494 Absolutely, this is so much better than JOB.
@@derekforeal2494 for real haha I don’t like studio setups so cheesy and boring.
noooooo! We don't want you to get a "podcast studio"...... Keep us home with you!! It's so rad!!!!
No pressure in finding guests! We love the show, you guys are great by yourselves
You don't need a studio! It's perfect the way it is, I like the randomness of the locations and the people who happen by.
Would be awesome to see some lifeguard water patrol legend come and talk more about safety, we could learn a lote from that. Bring aswell Ivan and Makua! Sick podcast, keep improving!
Not gonna lie I like the living room vibe. It makes the podcast feel warm and fuzzy. A studio would be cool but you guys talking in your living room makes it feel friendly and humble
My husband and I love the podcast! Keep it up. I think it's refreshing to just see some genuine conversations, nothing too forced or too showy. The relaxed vibe of just answering questions, retelling stories and hearing your thoughts on different subject matters is awesome!
Next podcast you guys should go over some of your favorite songs/music, I know everyone would love to hear
Just want to say I appreciate the editing on these videos. Adding in a relevant clip or picture really does take the podcast to the next level.
Listening to the two of you tell stories about breaks, the best and worst of different things, pranks, trips…all of it, is really interesting and engaging. I like the shows with guests too, and there are so many people that would be great to talk hear you talking with. One guest I’d really like is Kai Lenny. I loved the Life of Kai episode with Nathan and him in Nazaré. It seemed like it was your first time there so I’d love to hear you talk about that or big waves anywhere else. Of course just the two of you talking big wave surfing for an episode would be great too.
Also, I’m another vote for no studio. I too enjoy seeing you guys sitting around your houses.
JOB of course would be another good guest. I can imagine it would be 50% talking and 50% laughing.
No studio. I like it when you guys keep it low key in a normal environment.
I would like to see you guys get all the boys who grew up together (JJ, Eli, Koa, Nate, and Ivan) just talking stories. That would be an epic episode. 🤙🏼
Yeahh, I have been waiting for my favorite podcast latest episode. One idea is to take the podcast on the road with you guys when you go to a specific destination and subject would that place, maybe a local as a guest (i.e. Tahiti, Fiji etc...). I would also love to hear from Koa's Dad and Nate's mom. I bet they have great stories of ya'll.
About WSL, John is working his form back which is great, and is the best surfer in the world, bar none.
The last 10 minutes was really impactful talking about the bad situations that eventually happen to everyone. I appreciate how honest you guys are about how scared you can get. A great podcast would be stories from your friends or other surfers about their bad wipeouts or hold downs etc. You guys are the right ones to do it because you don't have that weird macho thing going on that often taints those kind of important stories.
like other people mentioned dont do the studio keep it simple and relatable.
would love to get some female surfers on the podcast. Would also love some oldies talking about older boards/boarddesign and how they work/ hold up nowadays.
peace
I dont think you guys need a studio.
Maybe you want to get out of your LR, I dont know....but I like the casual approach you guys bring.
Guests----I am an old kook, so I like the OGs....Darrick Doerner, Nathan Fletcher, Dave Wassel....those old chargers.
The young guy coming up, that wants to start training with Nate---be interesting to see what a young up and coming talent is all about.
Also, you guys just chopping it up---it is great.
10/10.
Keep it up boys.
Thanks guys. Great stuff. It's good to hear you are concerned about sun damage. That is something that will sneak up on you later in life. I've always said it would be dumb to die from something that could have been prevented. I have fair skin and light colored eyes. that means less melanin in my skin. My wife, like Koa, have a darker skin and probably brown eyes. They naturally have more melanin in their skin so they have a better built in sun screen.
Surfing makes it even worse because the rays reflect off the ocean and bounce back up into your face. Cloudy conditions can actually intensify the UV rays too. It's definitely a jungle out there.
The last story on wave survival was really intense but also super interesting! So good of you guys to share this.
I really enjoy listening to you guys shooting the breeze. It's cool to to hear two pro surfers having a conversation about their experiences in such a nonchalant way. Most of us would never be able to be a part of those types of conversations, given we aren't pros and don't know any pros. So thanks and looking forward to many more.
Another great podcast gents. You crack me up talking bout us Brits… I can confirm my teeth are great but I have had skin cancer, so you’re 1/2 right Doc Koa!
Fascinated about the adrenaline fatigue you mentioned, I have some experience of this. I was a former military pilot, spent lots of time in Middle Eastern war zones which was pretty crazy at times… I’d get home and be completely drained both physically and mentally. Over the years it affected me less & less as my body’s ‘norms’ changed, but when I stopped flying I found it very difficult to rediscover anything to raise my adrenaline, took a year or so to get it back.
Awesome content guys, keep it going
Hey Nate, you have the coolest response every time I f with you about POV! I live near Barra, MX. You and your family are welcome to stay with us! Food, cama, beers on me!
What everyone else is saying! Don’t change the formula too much, this is what’s great. You guys are just chilled and totally genuine. Not forcing anything. It’s so cool just hearing you guys talk about shit as mates. Loved every ep so far. Also , re: what you were talking about the first aid etc. you guys should 100% do a first aid and survival course. Could even do it as an episode. Given the places you go and waves you surf , you could end up saving someone’s life. Cheers again boys and keep it going🤙
I agree, Alexandria would be a great guest. Always love hearing from Kelly Slater and his life in Hawaii with you all
If you're ever chasing a swell at Mavs you should give Ocean Beach in San Francisco a go. It's a notoriously bad paddle out on big days.
would love to see Billy Kemper and your brother Koa
While living on Molokai, I met an older woman who was friends with the Florence family when the brothers were just young groms. She said that it was their mom Alex, who gave them their free rein (I know, no news there) and grew them into their current selves. She said to interview Alex about their early days growing up, said that those stories are well worth hearing. And I would imagine that Koa's family is the same way. Maybe both family's parents together would be a great mashup. I personally would love to hear their family stories, together ping-ponging off each other in the way families do when telling about their kid's stories.
From Illinois..never surfed..caught podcast cause of nine club podcast..first watched Bert w/you guys on his.. I have listened whatever you both put out..AGAIN..not a surfer..I decided to write this because you both talk about what guests and growing it big..THATS not it..ITS YOU 2..ITS YOU 2...guest every now and then...but I hope we don't lose your connection together.. simplicity..natural...that's why you so busy and no time for guests..cuz you badass...don't give that up my new friends.✌️🤞
Aloha my friends MANO MAKO HERE , yes surf , yet surf as if you are imagining always pointing to the shoulder of the biggest wave imaginable.. Also ridding a gun or semi gun old school board will help the long glide phase into the monster that is the most critical to setting the terminal line.. Getting to know your board is key .. surf it in all conditions to be 100% on point .. become as one with the board have that real connection with your board is most important... Focus force Nathen you got this i am cheering for you!!!
Aloha my friends MANO MAKO HERE , I LOVE WATCHING YOU GROW !!!!!!!!!!!! KEEP !!!!!!!!!!!!!! growing your skills ... free diving ,pool laps , ocean swims , body surf ,body board !!!! go get um ... forum your glade phase... in to the black blue eye of the deepest massive pits monsters... The Nectar Sector is always shape shifting the mutant element of surprise is always present..
You guys slay. Loving the podcast in additon to all your other surf content. Guest ideas 👇
The obvious: JOB, Slater, Bruce Irons, any other badass CT or free surfers you wanna bring in
Perhaps more interesting: Clark Little, Jim Russi (filmers), Jon Pyzel, Wade Tokoro (shapers), Eddie Rothman, Kala Alexander (OGs), Luke Shepardson (water safety) or anyone else from the North Shore that is foundational to the curlture
Oh, and those Smith boys, especially Koa. That dude's pyche is contagious.
Bruce Irons is another salty OG on the NS, that would be a great guest.
Right on a podcast. When things blow up then time management gets rough so thanks for cranking another one up
That prank shows how good of friends they are lol Koa seems like such a sweet guy but that story had me rolling 🤣
It's hard enough taking beatdowns in 8-10ft waves. Much respect for the way you guys handle these situations. But like you said, every set will end eventually and that's the kind of thing that keeps us going when we're stuck inside. I hope you guys keep doing these podcasts. As good as your surfing is, I feel like these are even better.
Been caught in the rip pulling you back into the impact zone, scary. Best to not avoid incoming waves and let them push you out of the zone!
Had a close one at Sunset Beach after a huge day where Waimea was breaking. Early morning, one guy out 8’+ clean get out get a wave and notice the guy got out. On the paddle out got caught and had a death grip on my board,got driven deep and board was ripped away and now pushed even deeper (pre leash). Felt a super undertow and was close to passing out, when I finally surfaced. Learned how after big swells you need to let the ocean currents settle down. Was the reason no one was out early!!
1999 Cocoa Beach, Hurricane Floyd. Despite a mandatory evacuation of Cocoa Beach, Cape Canaveral, and Kennedy Space Center (cops came to every house and made people leave. Dave and I hid in closets to stay to surf the backside we knew would happen)...so the next morning, when the eye passed and the winds turned to offshore, we were the only two to start out from Bags, a local break. It took Dave and me 45 minutes (timed on my watch) to make it out. I quit counting the duck dives. I made it out and sat up on my board and got hit with a clean-up set which drove me back to the beach. 45 more minutes of duck diving. Finally out after a total of 1 1/2 hours...Dave and I were the only two surfers out that morning. I caught the wave of my life, a huge front-side stand-up barrel that just kept going and going until like every shorebreak wave, it collapsed and somehow I ended up on the shore, a perfect impression of my head in the board with a concussion to match...I won't claim how big the wave was, but the outside offshore bouy 41010 broke off that morning at over 50 feet. www.weather.gov/media/mlb/research/99hurrpp.pdf
holy shit.
super explanation about the problems with sunscreen👍🙏🏻
Would love to see moana jones wong on the pod! Loved her recent vid recapping her winter and highlights at pipe! And agreed with all comments about koa's dad and nate's mom. Also billy kemper and eli
But also, love the pod as it is 😊 thankful for the insights + entertainment!
So interesting to hear you say that you dont feel the burnout in your muscles! I surf once every 15 days and I struggle back to back days so hard! Keep up the good work! Love your channels and podcasts!!
22:04 this is surfer life thinking talking catching waves spreading knowledge truly for the better but taking the time to discuss and think.. i love it koa dropping facts
Alexandra Florence!!! Would be amazing to know the POV of the person responsible for raising three sickos!
I tried falling asleep while listening to this but I could not get to sleep while listening to the hold down stories 😂 gave me so much anxiety! I hate getting stuck on the inside!!
Get Bruce irons on the pod
Love the adrenalin conversation.
I really appreciate the clips in the background
This is the best podcast for falling Asleep , Even better than listening to the Golf channel .
It's great as it is - don't bust a gut trying to get people on - work/life balance and all that, keep it chilled it's idiosyncrasy is its strength. Voting no studio!
Ocean Beach SF is the worst paddle out
Bro, try paddling out to Cortes Bank sometime, worst shoulder burn ever.
For the most part when any beach break gets big, it’s a pretty difficult paddle out
@@hpaw8675309 😂😂
Ob is a mean fickle…. But, we love her nonetheless.
Duh
Love your podcast guys. I started surfing in 1962 on South Shore and believe it or not I still paddle out. A helpful hint is to not point the camera towards the windows cause it makes it hard to see your faces. Keep it up boys!
You’re spot on about the widows😉
Good call Nathan! Curren beat Occy for sure, but it was still sick to watch just like this podcast. Keep up the great work guys!!
so cool to hear the truth about the routine fears and internal struggles you guys deal with...we can all relate to being confronted periodically with waves out of our comfort zone, and no real choice but to surf them!! it’s fucking bad ass!!
you guys deserve to give yourselves a couple days or more to wind down after those sessions, and fully ‘live’ the after party with those you surfed with...it completes the loop that begins when everyone knows the swell is coming and their surfing it!
Love the show guys Love to Here from Koa's Dad and Nate's Mom 2 absolute Legends as well as Eli talking How he got into the stunt biz
I like how the set location changes. Keeps it feeling organic. 🤙🤙🤙
You and Koa should both get your skin checked. I’m 23 and have played water polo and surfed the majority of my life so lots of sun exposure and I got my skin checked this last year and had to have 2 spots cut off my skin
I wanna hear from guests. But I think you shouldnt also forget why yall started the pod, because yall would have convos and you were like “why dont we record these?” personally i like just listening to you two, and your genuine sense of humor and interest in the whole sport of surfing and the ocean
Plenty of interesting people around the north shore to get on! Your old man would be sick koa 😂 arto, mr cool himself, benji brand! Soo many zorad be funny too
42:00 Long-time distance runner here: I feel this way about running. I can go out and run cold turkey, totally out of shape, and get 3-4 miles in and probably not be very sore. When I surf though? If I'm out of shape, I can only manage a 45-minute session if there's a decent current or the waves are on the bigger side of my comfort.
I wold love too see as guests some of the badass lifeguards!
loving the podcast so much boys
it was rad seeing tom and occy compete, honestly could’ve watched them for hrs. occy definitely dropped the highest score of the heat but i think tom wins it
Ty for u your podcasts ! So this is what would be a great share would be stories of the underground guys that are hard workers but raise families,ect, an example would be this guy from my old neighborhood area of marijuanas!! Dawn at real wiamea 20 ft plus Wayne gets flicking tubed for reals! Paddles in and goes to work! Respect! I started my winters in 73 for around 12 years and those were the waterman of unknown lore,of course there were all the known guys ect. Aloha nui !!
Actually his name was Walter,
Any female surfers would be great..Whereever you have your podcast is good enough. Your guys are doing a great job!
Have Billy K on! Homey's real af and I don't see enough of him.
Loving these episodes and am glad you took on the advice on minimizing screen while a video is showing. The chat about being caught inside and being held in the impact zone brought up a lot of situations because New Zealand has a lot of beaches with channels between back line and shore break. I would love to hear more about safety not only for yourself but for others. Thanks for another awesome and informative video.
Have your mom's on! Both are so accomplished as moms and business people. Perfect for Mother's Day coming up!
Nice idea.
Jack Johnson.. Eddie if course..I like the backdrop of old school kitchen..but you 2 talking about spirituality of ..waves of life..could be next ✌️
Voting NO to the professional studio. Part of you guys' charm is seeing you sitting around your homed & hometown there in Hawaii!
Both Occy and Tom are LEGENDS. It was totally cool watching them surf back in the 80s and current. Curren won that heat. The waves didn't show up for JJF,he was ripping it. Get Koa's dad on some old school stories would be awesome. Koa nice hair you lose another bet to your bro🤣
Hi,I use t be NS resident ,hd the honor to meet with Koa when he was a teen ,fun kid and friends trying to learn jujitsu moves,my suggestion is to bring music to the show like new musicians and old ones like jack j ,your brother Makua and work outs that helps surf.
Can you please do a episode on pre surf mindset. What supplements do you take before a long surf. Do you practice breathing?Do you prefer to be alone, do you pray? How do you get prepared for the life and death situations you boys are in?
I think everyone would love an interview with Luke Shepardson, he's such a humble seeming guy.
To protect my legs I use workout under armor type pants. It’s like a rash guard for your legs. I use it with my hooded rash guard and surfer bucket hat. Saves me from spending so much on sunscreen, saves the environment and it works better too. Use this with my spring suit and board shorts.
Sickest podcast! Koa haircut looks good - hit that low skin fade cuz
Carissa Moore would be a rad guest. One of my favorite surfers, seems really down to earth and chill. Maybe in between CT events!
Yes! She is amazing!
I imagine she'd more likely do Jamie's podcast with them both being Redbull athletes
@@J4ck92 Yeah good point! Would be stoked either way 🤙🏼
Really super interesting to hear about the mental side of surfing from you two. Thanks! I'd still love to hear from Koa's Pops and Nate's pretty Momma!
The legends really put on a great show! They were equal on all waves.
Any beach break in Portugal once it goes above 6 ft is such a hard paddle out 😂 you guys are MASTER paddlers.
6ft Hawaiian? Beach breaks above 4ft Hawaiian/Australian are misery to paddle.
You guys are killing it love the podcast…. Was wondering how you both deal with flat spells/not surfing for a bit, I always feel stir crazy and tweak when I haven’t surfed/been in the ocean in awhile. Tips for riding the high of surfing while out of the water to not lose your mind??
Nate jo mama and Koa jo papa would be great guests
dont stop takeing the piss out of each other boyz love it much love from the uk!!!!!
I remember Nate covering that Ben Gravy clip where he gets stuck inside and the current wont let him go in or out and he almost died. Shit is so gnarly
Koa would love to see your dad on the podcast. Talking about the old times. I always though you pros had aqua lungs and y’all never got tired. Happy it not just me
Yo Tom Curren won. The CT cut sucks! F the WSL. Now you guys have to do Wave of the Winter, XXL awards and a new CT LETS GO
I was gonna say the same. Occy 1 turn vs style master!!!!
Great podcast! Get trained: CPR and would love to see Occy❤
Good info in these podcasts, keep it up 👍🏽 Just watched the episode with Pyzel too. Here's one idea - a new division in contests for wood core/fiberglass boards only 😂 it's environmental and could be standardized to see who's truly the best surfer
Love Alligators!!! But it’s beat me down good several times !!! Love the Podcast and vlogs boys. Aloha
Like Nate, I used to burn...peel...burn...peel, with little tan. I'm old and had nowhere near sunscreen you have. I ended up having 4 bouts of skin cancer in my 50's. Please, please, please use sunscreen. Lol. Love the podcast you kooks. Lmbo
Would be rad to get some local legends on! Get to know some of the shapers, surf shop owners, etc. Love the podcast tho🤙🏽🤙🏽
Would love to see Koa’s Dad on the podcast! Love hearing him talk about surfing!
Another great podcast you guys that was really fun! I
“What is it called….. lobbying?”
Koa: “I’m not sure…”
Lifestyle goals
love it fam. thank u!
Love the podcast guys! I think a good guest would be Ross Williams🙌🏼 I bet he has some untold stories that would be pretty epic
Yes, Koa sunscreen can cause cancer I’ve known that for a very long time you’re not wrong and if it’s controversial, it’s just people who don’t know because that’s well known for a while now!😉
While some chemicals in certain sunscreens can indeed cause cancer, the cancer rates of people (particularly Caucasian and other lightskinned individuals) that are heavily exposed to uv rays without sunscreen is much higher than those without. I never wore sunscreen and I practically lived outdoors and on the water my whole childhood, got diagnosed with skin cancer the first time at 22. I am supposed to have a yearly screening because they fully expect me to develop several more but haven't been the last couple years. I've got a couple spots I need to have checked and removed but no health insurance. It is what it is, you're damned if you do and damned if you don't so I'm not gonna tell somebody they should wear sunscreen. What I will say is that statistically speaking, you're better off using sunscreen if you're a fair skinned individual.
@@DeadSezSo yes you just have to find the organic sunscreen that don’t have cancer-causing chemicals. There are some out there people know and created good ones maybe they just have to be organic and that’s that so look for those ones..
Great show. As far as spray-on sunscreen goes, there are only two types of propellant used, butane or propane, so one is basically covering your skin with lighter fluid.
Best pod so far. Just dig the friend ship!!!
A question for you guys… how do you go from an intermediate surfer to expert? With turns, bigger waves, etc. Need to get past this learning plateau.
Great flippin episode loved it
Can confirm as I’m from England, people are white as paper all year round and in the summer turn red as a tomato everywhere then go straight back to white, luckily I’m blessed with the same skin as Koa so I don’t need sun cream and don’t go through the annual red skin cancer phase haha
I agree.. keep the podcast out of a studio. I think it’s alot more personal the way u guys r doing it now.