Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels. At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more. Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on UA-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job. Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀 And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ua-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html ☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info ⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐ ☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark ☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐ ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq 🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
You are so right! There is no shame in drawing on the experience of others. Because especially when it comes to asbestos, particularly in the case of renovation and refurbishment work we recommend to exercise the greatest caution and play it safe! Have any work on it carried out exclusively by service providers with the necessary certificate of competence. This is the only way you can be really sure that there will be no accidental contamination of your living space, clothing or workshops with asbestos fibers. Stay healthy!
Started watching your videos about 6 years ago when I was remodeling. I went over two upstairs bedroom popcorn ceilings with 1/2" drywall and gotta say they still look good to this day. I wouldn't skimp on using 1/4" or 3/8". I used many screws and always double-checked I didn't have any misses. Getting ready to do my small bathroom (about 5' x 8' ceiling) and will use the 1/2" again. Appreciate all your knowledge.
You are absolutely correct on your comments. Until you have experienced this in the field, you have no concept of the issues you will experience. very good commentary. Thank you. Will pass this on to someone considering doing this.
My popcorn ceilings are level 1 asbestos. Will be hanging 1\2” sheets over to coverup the popcorn. Glad. I watched this video. WAS going to use 12 ft. Sheets but have decided to cut shorter pieces to avoid fighting with the edges & get a tighter fit. This video brought up some good points to consider. Keep up bringing the advice Guy. You’re a great instructor.
James Pietrzykowski It certainly works. I put this out because I think too many people think it’s simpler, as I actually hear that often. But I wanted to make sure they were thinking about all the things that go along with doing an overlay. I’ve also found I can charge the homeowner less and make more money by getting rid of it in other ways, unless this is the only option. thanks for sharing
I really like the idea of using fur strips . Solves a lot of issues. I’m also going to try this new magnet they have as a stud finder. They really stick.
Great advice . My take always from video 1. Correct about time to mark out joists , I have an L shaped ceiling . ( stairs) Took a long time to find some studs . 2. The stucco / air gap / popped screw factor , I will be mindful and apply PL with high spots aswell . . My apprehension is lining up the butt joints half way exactly on a joist . ? Great video! Don’t want to deal with asbestos .
I always use a chalk line and then just put masking tape markers on the wall. On the edges, I just use tear off corner bead fit tightly to the wall and then I can finish without scraping the wall and it doesn't matter that the wall isn't 100% flat/even. A drywall lift made rhe jobs super easy, too. Much easier than scraping and/or skim coating the whole thing (although I did actually skim coat the finish but that was still much easier than skim coating over popcorn).
I always mark out my stud /ceiling joist layouts on my board . I been hanging board forever too. It’s just way cleaner and easier to mudd without the extra screw holes from missing 🤷🏻♂️
I'm a low voltage contractor and sometimes install ceiling speakers that require cutting holes in the ceiling drywall. Over the years I've encountered a few ceilings where cutting into the drywall was extremely difficult, as if there was some type of adhesive applied, and I noticed what appeared to be layers of material once the cut was made. I did not see any other layers of drywall. I assumed the ceiling originally had 'popcorn' texture and was skimmed with an All Purpose (Green Box) type of mud. However, I think before that, they must have applied some other type of sealant or adhesive to encapsulate the acoustical material before skim coating. These homes were built at a time when asbestos was being used in the acoustical material. I'm assuming that skim coating would add less weight to the framing as opposed to adding new drywall, and I would opt for skim coating before considering new drywall.
I'm a taper with 47 years experience and thousands of jobs completed, 1500 in the last 10 years alone, I always without question put up new rock whenever possible, cheaper and takes away some of the variables, starting with a new ceiling is a no brainer
I am an Air Force veteran so I had time out for that, I also manufactured biodiesel equipment for six years after writing a book about it, and was part owner in a pawnshop for several years. Do the math lol. PS Im 60
30 mins to an hour to find the trusses as opposed to hiring someone to test the popcorn for asbestos, than hiring someone to scrap the popcorn, clean up after scraping the popcorn, and than refinish the ceiling. Yeah im thinking that hour extra is worth it.
Once you find one they should all be 12-16in apart right? So you could just divide the entire distance by 12,14,16 and whichever one comes out even should be your spacing right? Seems like it should only take a few minutes to chalk a line on every single truss after that
I have extensive water damage which caused bowing between the trusses on my basement ceiling, in addition to popcorn ceiling. Not all the ceiling has experienced bowing but I plan on rewetting those bowed areas and supporting it until it dries. Once that’s done I plan on installing 1/2 inch drywall over the entire ceiling. I also will be adding a (load bearing) wall that will span the length of the basement and will run perpendicular to the trusses and bowed portions and will help support the drywall. Thoughts?
Hello Guy, Did I miss something? I saw a comment about scraping option, but didn't see it in the video?? Was it in a previous Video,? I might just watch it again, won't hurt me a bit. LMBO 🤩😅😁 my wife tells me things more than once. I'm 65 and a DIYer doing most repairs myself. Partly because I like to and partly because I can't afford to pay for a pro. Love your channel and style of teaching. I'll be tackling this project soon. We're in a double wide mobile home and the back half needs a new roof. When roof comes off we don't know if the ceiling is coming down or not?? Anyway it has popcorn ceiling and I have always hated it. Scraping is tough but only cost me time and elbow grease. I wouldn't put drywall over existing ceiling, that is just asking for trouble in my humble opinion. If you're going to go through the cost of new drywall, then demo the popcorn and enjoy doing it. : )) Like you said in your video there's a time and place to cover the old, but I would avoid that option if possible. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and videos Rodney
2 1/2 years ago I put out a video showing how I scrape the popcorn off. But I’m editing a video now that I will release in a week or two that is more current and more detailed about the whole process. thanks
I looking for way to finish a ceiling. Thanks I was able to get some ideas for my project. I'll Install over the existing drywall and I will Install crow molding round the room. I think will be fantastic. Thanks for your video. God bless you.
That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement I was possibly considering it but it sounds like a lot more work than it’s worth. Curious about it mostly. You convinced me that scraping is the way to go. Thank you 🙏🏼
would this work with lath and plaster ceiling? i was thinking using resiliant channel or going over top....this video is making me rethink...i'm not confident with resiliant channel but the 1x3 furring strip option sounds fairly easy.
Fastest, cleanest results: * Fur out perimeter and over rafters with 1x4s. Decent straight lumber though * Drywall over with 3/8 or 1/2" Easier than skim coating. Costs more but result looks cleaner...and weight is no problem.
so , why not cut or make a slot in the wall where it joins the ceiling . Let me explain , if the thickness of the sweet rock is half an inch , then make a half - inch cut in the wall , where the union with the ceiling is . That way you put the new piece in the slot and then you start screwing against the ceiling what do you think !!!
It can be done but it will cause all your electrical boxes to be too deep which you have to extend, and it will throw off things like door jams as they’re going to be wider now
I also did this same procedure many years ago man it was a total bummer never again the joists were all way off and no nailers in the angles condo was built like crap
I would rather jsut remove my old popcorn and refinish it but it could contain asbestos ,,.I live in Canada and my house was built in 1986.Do you think my popcorn could contain asbestos ? should I get it tested for asbestos before I scrape it off ?
I also am going to start from all the out sides and do the center last. That way all my outside edges match the wall. And just cut the drywall accordingly .I will post back on if it works and the time it takes.
Well the main reason is that 1/4" is *INCREDIBLY * weak and fragile. It really is best used as a laminate over old smooth sheetrock, paneling, etc. And if you look at a piece of 1/4" it's got very little gypsum board in the middle so there's just no screw holding power. So yes, it pops screws badly and and the screws don't hold well due to the sponginess of the popcorn foam balls. There's also these air gaps everywhere as the rock rides on the foam balls, not on the sheetrock itself, so often you are pulling the screw down into a small air space and the screw wont seat until it hits something solid, so it pops and doesnt hold. One final thing is it will follow every wavy contour a little more than thicker rock.
I have popcorn ceiling that tested positive for asbestos. So scraping off is out of question, don't want to risk it with kids in house. Was told by drywaller that skim coating a large ceiling is hard to get it to look perfectly flat... so, if I want it to look nice, hanging new drywall may be my only option. Any thoughts? Was thinking hanging 1/2" ultralight drywall
That’s what I suggest also. The new layer of drywall alleviates the possibility of asbestos contamination and I’ve done many ceilings like this with great results.
I am getting ready to remove the popcorn from another bedroom. The popcorn was sprayed partially into the ceiling a/c vents. Do most people remove this and if so, what method to you recommend? I assume scraping and washing with a sponge?
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I mean scrape the ceiling in strips two feet apart with 6 inch scraper then strap ceiling with 3/4 inch boards and drywall over the old drywall
Well I've never done that. Not sure why it would be helpful. I just hang right over the old layer if I'm covering it up. If I scrape it, I just fix the old ceiling and retexture it.
OK to answer that question, first of all the only reason I do this is when there is a popcorn ceiling that’s been painted too much to remove, or it has asbestos in it. In that case, removing the sheet rock would still disturb the asbestos and be dangerous. Also, there would be far more mess, not less. I have taken the ceilings down & the blown in insulation becomes a horrific nightmare of a mess along with all the broken sheet rock and is a huge pain to dispose of. And it would still be difficult to hang because you would still need to hang it tight to the wall which was one of the issues in this video. Thanks for the question
@@polocash11 Removal is MUCH easier. I have a picture of me on a job where we removed a ceiling with blown in insulation. I'm standing in a pile 2' deep, on stilts, fully suited up in Tyvek, masks, etc and it was miserable. Wish I could share it on here.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY my ceiling was Dry scraped (no vacuuming, sanding or dusting) Shot with very little knockdown texture Then 30 gallons of ceiling paint was applied First they used my first 10 gallons of ceiling paint and it absorbed into the sheet rock so he told me he needed to prime the ceiling so he applied the primer and then again painted. It looks absolutely horrid and now I’m trying to fix it. I really need your advice kilted guy!! 🙏🏻
Asbestos for one. Heavily painted popcorn is another. But I get comments all the time that covering it up with more drywall is easier so I put this out to debunk that.
Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels.
At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more.
Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on UA-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job.
Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀
And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall
Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg
Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com
Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ua-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html
☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info
⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐
☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark
☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE
⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐
☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com
🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒
- - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - -
☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available)
🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo
🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6
🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U
🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx
🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj
🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH
☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools
🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander
🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper
🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife
🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq
🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement
☑ Miscellaneous Tools
🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder
🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase
☑ Miscellaneous supplies
🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz
DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
this man knows from experience... listen to him to save you some time & frustration
You are so right! There is no shame in drawing on the experience of others. Because especially when it comes to asbestos, particularly in the case of renovation and refurbishment work we recommend to exercise the greatest caution and play it safe! Have any work on it carried out exclusively by service providers with the necessary certificate of competence. This is the only way you can be really sure that there will be no accidental contamination of your living space, clothing or workshops with asbestos fibers.
Stay healthy!
Started watching your videos about 6 years ago when I was remodeling. I went over two upstairs bedroom popcorn ceilings with 1/2" drywall and gotta say they still look good to this day. I wouldn't skimp on using 1/4" or 3/8". I used many screws and always double-checked I didn't have any misses. Getting ready to do my small bathroom (about 5' x 8' ceiling) and will use the 1/2" again. Appreciate all your knowledge.
You are absolutely correct on your comments. Until you have experienced this in the field, you have no concept of the issues you will experience. very good commentary. Thank you. Will pass this on to someone considering doing this.
My popcorn ceilings are level 1 asbestos. Will be hanging 1\2” sheets over to coverup the popcorn. Glad. I watched this video. WAS going to use 12 ft. Sheets but have decided to cut shorter pieces to avoid fighting with the edges & get a tighter fit. This video brought up some good points to consider. Keep up bringing the advice Guy. You’re a great instructor.
Thank you for your comments
I do over too all the time. Never had any issues at all. I’m a 15 year pro do it for a living. I do renos constantly.
James Pietrzykowski It certainly works. I put this out because I think too many people think it’s simpler, as I actually hear that often. But I wanted to make sure they were thinking about all the things that go along with doing an overlay. I’ve also found I can charge the homeowner less and make more money by getting rid of it in other ways, unless this is the only option. thanks for sharing
I really like the idea of using fur strips . Solves a lot of issues. I’m also going to try this new magnet they have as a stud finder. They really stick.
Great advice . My take always from video
1. Correct about time to mark out joists , I have an L shaped ceiling . ( stairs) Took a long time to find some studs .
2. The stucco / air gap / popped screw factor , I will be mindful and apply PL with high spots aswell .
. My apprehension is lining up the butt joints half way exactly on a joist . ? Great video! Don’t want to deal with asbestos .
Hey, let me know if you've ever done this, or even THOUGHT about doing this and did this help you?
Thank you for explaining this.
I always use a chalk line and then just put masking tape markers on the wall. On the edges, I just use tear off corner bead fit tightly to the wall and then I can finish without scraping the wall and it doesn't matter that the wall isn't 100% flat/even. A drywall lift made rhe jobs super easy, too. Much easier than scraping and/or skim coating the whole thing (although I did actually skim coat the finish but that was still much easier than skim coating over popcorn).
I always mark out my stud /ceiling joist layouts on my board . I been hanging board forever too. It’s just way cleaner and easier to mudd without the extra screw holes from missing 🤷🏻♂️
I hope you doing better is nice to see you again
Safet Kovac thank you
Great advice! Exactly what i was looking for. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I'm a low voltage contractor and sometimes install ceiling speakers that require cutting holes in the ceiling drywall. Over the years I've encountered a few ceilings where cutting into the drywall was extremely difficult, as if there was some type of adhesive applied, and I noticed what appeared to be layers of material once the cut was made. I did not see any other layers of drywall. I assumed the ceiling originally had 'popcorn' texture and was skimmed with an All Purpose (Green Box) type of mud. However, I think before that, they must have applied some other type of sealant or adhesive to encapsulate the acoustical material before skim coating. These homes were built at a time when asbestos was being used in the acoustical material. I'm assuming that skim coating would add less weight to the framing as opposed to adding new drywall, and I would opt for skim coating before considering new drywall.
I prefer skim coating myself, mostly for weight reasons.
Drywall mud, laminating screws, take out after mud dries. It will fill the voids and give you a solid bond.
Was looking for this exact conversation. Thank you!
Great video, thanks for the info! Thanks for your service! 🔵👍🏼
Thank you!
This Guy is just terrific !!! He is doing a great job helping lots of people by sharing his knowledge and practical experiences.
I'm a taper with 47 years experience and thousands of jobs completed, 1500 in the last 10 years alone, I always without question put up new rock whenever possible, cheaper and takes away some of the variables, starting with a new ceiling is a no brainer
You've been doing drywall for 35 years, since you were 8? You look good for 43. Great video loco.
I am an Air Force veteran so I had time out for that, I also manufactured biodiesel equipment for six years after writing a book about it, and was part owner in a pawnshop for several years. Do the math lol. PS Im 60
30 mins to an hour to find the trusses as opposed to hiring someone to test the popcorn for asbestos, than hiring someone to scrap the popcorn, clean up after scraping the popcorn, and than refinish the ceiling. Yeah im thinking that hour extra is worth it.
Once you find one they should all be 12-16in apart right? So you could just divide the entire distance by 12,14,16 and whichever one comes out even should be your spacing right? Seems like it should only take a few minutes to chalk a line on every single truss after that
I have extensive water damage which caused bowing between the trusses on my basement ceiling, in addition to popcorn ceiling. Not all the ceiling has experienced bowing but I plan on rewetting those bowed areas and supporting it until it dries. Once that’s done I plan on installing 1/2 inch drywall over the entire ceiling. I also will be adding a (load bearing) wall that will span the length of the basement and will run perpendicular to the trusses and bowed portions and will help support the drywall. Thoughts?
Hello Guy,
Did I miss something? I saw a comment about scraping option, but didn't see it in the video?? Was it in a previous Video,? I might just watch it again, won't hurt me a bit. LMBO 🤩😅😁 my wife tells me things more than once.
I'm 65 and a DIYer doing most repairs myself. Partly because I like to and partly because I can't afford to pay for a pro. Love your channel and style of teaching. I'll be tackling this project soon. We're in a double wide mobile home and the back half needs a new roof. When roof comes off we don't know if the ceiling is coming down or not?? Anyway it has popcorn ceiling and I have always hated it. Scraping is tough but only cost me time and elbow grease. I wouldn't put drywall over existing ceiling, that is just asking for trouble in my humble opinion. If you're going to go through the cost of new drywall, then demo the popcorn and enjoy doing it. : ))
Like you said in your video there's a time and place to cover the old, but I would avoid that option if possible. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and videos Rodney
2 1/2 years ago I put out a video showing how I scrape the popcorn off. But I’m editing a video now that I will release in a week or two that is more current and more detailed about the whole process. thanks
I looking for way to finish a ceiling. Thanks I was able to get some ideas for my project. I'll Install over the existing drywall and I will Install crow molding round the room. I think will be fantastic. Thanks for your video. God bless you.
Thank you for your input. I am happy to help.
Great video, looks like heck of a job. as much as I don't like popcorn think ill just paint mine.
Have you seen this video yet? You might still want to paint it, but here's another option. ua-cam.com/video/IkqCj0wFzwU/v-deo.html
My ceiling tested positive for asbestos so absolutely can’t remove it unless I pay a crazy amount for removal.
Good advice
Glad I watched this
Hi Steve, were you thinking of doing this?
That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement
I was possibly considering it but it sounds like a lot more work than it’s worth. Curious about it mostly.
You convinced me that scraping is the way to go. Thank you 🙏🏼
Steve Zwemer glad to help
How about hanging drywall on ceilings and walls over mortise and lattice or cement lattice whatever the old houses were made of?
This is my exact situation and debating either skim coating it or this method.
You can use 2 magnets with the rope to find line
Hmm, never heard of that one.
Hi. I did this in our home but I used 1/2” - 10’ I found it easier to strap it first with 1x3 furring strips. Worked like a charm. Just my experience.
Thanks so much commenting. I appreciate it
would this work with lath and plaster ceiling? i was thinking using resiliant channel or going over top....this video is making me rethink...i'm not confident with resiliant channel but the 1x3 furring strip option sounds fairly easy.
Fastest, cleanest results:
* Fur out perimeter and over rafters with 1x4s. Decent straight lumber though
* Drywall over with 3/8 or 1/2"
Easier than skim coating. Costs more but result looks cleaner...and weight is no problem.
Can you install drywall over ceiling tile? If so, how would you do it? Would these same concepts apply?
Great video…but I’m sure another long time contractor would be like “he has no idea what the hell he’s talking about”.
so , why not cut or make a slot in the wall where it joins the ceiling . Let me explain , if the thickness of the sweet rock is half an inch , then make a half - inch cut in the wall , where the union with the ceiling is . That way you put the new piece in the slot and then you start screwing against the ceiling what do you think !!!
I smell what you're cooking but don't believe it could work in practice.
How about masking a very thin layer of popcorn over concrete? Should I go with sheetrock or could I technically mud over it smooth texture out?
What do you know about covering old lath and plaster with drywall? I spoke to a contractor and they said they would drywall over it.
It can be done but it will cause all your electrical boxes to be too deep which you have to extend, and it will throw off things like door jams as they’re going to be wider now
I also did this same procedure many years ago man it was a total bummer never again the joists were all way off and no nailers in the angles condo was built like crap
Yep. That's why I hated it.
How about horse hair ceiling drywall 1/4 Sheetrock over it?
I would rather jsut remove my old popcorn and refinish it but it could contain asbestos ,,.I live in Canada and my house was built in 1986.Do you think my popcorn could contain asbestos ? should I get it tested for asbestos before I scrape it off ?
I would test it
furring strips over the old popcorn??
thanx for talking me out of adding sheetrock
I love the fur strips . I can put up 3/8 and mark my top walls were the joist are since I’m going to paint.
I also am going to start from all the out sides and do the center last. That way all my outside edges match the wall. And just cut the drywall accordingly .I will post back on if it works and the time it takes.
What about covering a popcorn ceiling that is lathe and plaster? Good Idea? Bad Idea?
I think I’d go no more than 1/4 inch thick drywall on the ceiling like that and make absolutely sure you’re hitting ceiling joist and not lathe.
Are the screws popping through on the 1/4 inch drywall the main reason you prefer 3/8 or 1/2 inch over popcorn? Or is there more reasons why ?
Well the main reason is that 1/4" is *INCREDIBLY * weak and fragile. It really is best used as a laminate over old smooth sheetrock, paneling, etc. And if you look at a piece of 1/4" it's got very little gypsum board in the middle so there's just no screw holding power. So yes, it pops screws badly and and the screws don't hold well due to the sponginess of the popcorn foam balls. There's also these air gaps everywhere as the rock rides on the foam balls, not on the sheetrock itself, so often you are pulling the screw down into a small air space and the screw wont seat until it hits something solid, so it pops and doesnt hold. One final thing is it will follow every wavy contour a little more than thicker rock.
What if you create a secondary aluminum truss before hanging the secondary drywall? Is that a doable option over a popcorn ceiling?
I have popcorn ceiling that tested positive for asbestos. So scraping off is out of question, don't want to risk it with kids in house. Was told by drywaller that skim coating a large ceiling is hard to get it to look perfectly flat... so, if I want it to look nice, hanging new drywall may be my only option. Any thoughts? Was thinking hanging 1/2" ultralight drywall
That’s what I suggest also. The new layer of drywall alleviates the possibility of asbestos contamination and I’ve done many ceilings like this with great results.
There’s a lot of good information in this playlist - ua-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEnc06BFyXEpNX_SapMYj_g3.html
If I decide to go with the skim coat way. If it turns out there is asbestos, is it safe to still skim coat and sand ?
If it’s painted well, yes
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thanks for your reply. So if I hit it with a primer paint first and let it dry, the skim coat will actually stick to it properly?
But there must be studs straps or rafters holding the old ceiling. Can't you find the original studs and screw solidly?
Yes but it can be hit and miss
What about covering it up with bead board?
If done right covering it with wood works
I am getting ready to remove the popcorn from another bedroom. The popcorn was sprayed partially into the ceiling a/c vents. Do most people remove this and if so, what method to you recommend? I assume scraping and washing with a sponge?
I don't remove it but you can dampen and scrape.
Thanks for helping me build my channel to 100,000 subscribers and beyond
I am thinking about scraping the ceiling every 2 feet with a 6 inch scraper then strapping with 3/4 inch board... have you done that before??
No, never heard of that. Not really sure what you mean even.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I mean scrape the ceiling in strips two feet apart with 6 inch scraper then strap ceiling with 3/4 inch boards and drywall over the old drywall
Well I've never done that. Not sure why it would be helpful. I just hang right over the old layer if I'm covering it up. If I scrape it, I just fix the old ceiling and retexture it.
It is easier.
Next video
If your going to hang another sheet, why not just cut out old and replace for less mess?
OK to answer that question, first of all the only reason I do this is when there is a popcorn ceiling that’s been painted too much to remove, or it has asbestos in it. In that case, removing the sheet rock would still disturb the asbestos and be dangerous.
Also, there would be far more mess, not less. I have taken the ceilings down & the blown in insulation becomes a horrific nightmare of a mess along with all the broken sheet rock and is a huge pain to dispose of.
And it would still be difficult to hang because you would still need to hang it tight to the wall which was one of the issues in this video.
Thanks for the question
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY You got me at blown in insulation. My house is only 21 years old.
Redoing a guest bath and learning by trial and error. Was going to attempt popcorn removal. Room is 5x9.
@@polocash11 Removal is MUCH easier. I have a picture of me on a job where we removed a ceiling with blown in insulation. I'm standing in a pile 2' deep, on stilts, fully suited up in Tyvek, masks, etc and it was miserable. Wish I could share it on here.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I asked you a question on another video about primers. I really need help with that.
Spend a little money and tongue and groove the ceiling it will look better
Just wet it down and scrape it off much easier
I agree.
As long as it’s not painted
even then a lot of times it can still be removed.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY my ceiling was
Dry scraped (no vacuuming, sanding or dusting)
Shot with very little knockdown texture
Then 30 gallons of ceiling paint was applied
First they used my first 10 gallons of ceiling paint and it absorbed into the sheet rock so he told me he needed to prime the ceiling so he applied the primer and then again painted.
It looks absolutely horrid and now I’m trying to fix it.
I really need your advice kilted guy!! 🙏🏻
I guest I’d like to start all over from scratch if something like that would happen to me.
As in tearing out the sheetrock and starting over? That would get real expensive because of all the insulation you'd have to get rid of, then replace.
And then you have to pay to take all the garbage to the dump that takes a couple days
Too much selling and biography!!!
I have no idea why someone would put up drywall instead of scraping the popcorn crud off. Makes no sense to me at all.
Asbestos for one. Heavily painted popcorn is another. But I get comments all the time that covering it up with more drywall is easier so I put this out to debunk that.
It’s easier to just skim over the popcorn with mud.
@@alphasaiyan5760 It is easier to skim over it, but it's even easier to scrape it off, IF it can be scraped off. Have you done both ways?