Your technique is 90% good. The only change i would recommend is using a ferrule splitter/remover to remove the ferrule before removing the head. The odors of a melting ferrule are noxious and melted ferrule ends up on the head.
Is there any issues with an older style head & shaft attachment where there is 2 inches of wound wire on the outside where the clubhead meets the shaft. It does have a graphite shaft into a full carbon head. Even though it is the "old school" method, the club is a 2004. Thanks
Do I need a shaft puller I have a clamp at the work shop .... Just bought a ping answer head adjustable I need to switch it out and replace my 907d .... I love my 65 s aldila nv shaft
Hi Ryan, thanks for this video, much appreciated. I have a question. I have about the same kind of driver you have in the video, a Maruman V-sonic. It was snapped by me some years ago trying to reach a par 4 green in two. I've cleaned the head ferule, but it seems kind of shallow and the depth kind of stops at the clubhead. Being an engineer, I thought the shaft should do deeper, say 2-cm, into the club head but drilling seem to encounter metal. Is this normal? Help!
In prepping the graphite shaft to go back into the head, do you need to remove the epoxy from inside the tip of the shaft? If so, how? I typically do that with steel shafts but have never attempted it with a graphite shaft.
Yes. The shaft needs to be cleaned out to allow air to escape during the installation process. You can use a small drill bit ( but go slow ) or a ran rob from the butt end to push out any left over epoxy - this is a great question to demonstrate in a video!
Great video Ryan. Just a couple of thoughts...I've 'crushed' several shafts in my puller - they have all been 'made for' shafts. Like you I've never had an issue with original aftermarket shafts. How would you deal with a 'made for' that is particularly hard to pull? Any tricks? Or have you never run into that situation? Thanks again! :D
Just making sure that you keep pressure light and you shouldn't have a problem. I've pulled 40g graphite shafts without any issues just by being patient and focusing heat.
Attempting to remove before can scratch the shaft and by just letting it melt, you never have to worry about that. With steel its not an issue but with graphite and paint its best to be as careful as possible
With a torch, you can really focus the heat and quickly break down the epoxy. As soon as the epoxy breaks down and the head starts to move in the puller you remove heat. This limits the exposure to the shaft. I have never had an issue with using too much heat resulting in a ruined shaft because on the butane torch. It's all about taking the time to do it properly.
Your technique is 90% good. The only change i would recommend is using a ferrule splitter/remover to remove the ferrule before removing the head. The odors of a melting ferrule are noxious and melted ferrule ends up on the head.
Excellent video. Thanks.
Can you still reuse a shaft after removing it from a bonded club
Is there any issues with an older style head & shaft attachment where there is 2 inches of wound wire on the outside where the clubhead meets the shaft. It does have a graphite shaft into a full carbon head. Even though it is the "old school" method, the club is a 2004. Thanks
Do I need a shaft puller I have a clamp at the work shop .... Just bought a ping answer head adjustable I need to switch it out and replace my 907d .... I love my 65 s aldila nv shaft
Hi Ryan, thanks for this video, much appreciated. I have a question.
I have about the same kind of driver you have in the video, a Maruman V-sonic. It was snapped by me some years ago trying to reach a par 4 green in two. I've cleaned the head ferule, but it seems kind of shallow and the depth kind of stops at the clubhead. Being an engineer, I thought the shaft should do deeper, say 2-cm, into the club head but drilling seem to encounter metal. Is this normal? Help!
In prepping the graphite shaft to go back into the head, do you need to remove the epoxy from inside the tip of the shaft? If so, how? I typically do that with steel shafts but have never attempted it with a graphite shaft.
Yes. The shaft needs to be cleaned out to allow air to escape during the installation process. You can use a small drill bit ( but go slow ) or a ran rob from the butt end to push out any left over epoxy - this is a great question to demonstrate in a video!
What's the purpose of knowing all your club weights? Is it just a feel thing?
Great video Ryan. Just a couple of thoughts...I've 'crushed' several shafts in my puller - they have all been 'made for' shafts. Like you I've never had an issue with original aftermarket shafts. How would you deal with a 'made for' that is particularly hard to pull? Any tricks? Or have you never run into that situation? Thanks again! :D
Just making sure that you keep pressure light and you shouldn't have a problem. I've pulled 40g graphite shafts without any issues just by being patient and focusing heat.
Great video. Surprised you didn’t remove the ferrule before using the shaft puller. Any advantage to doing it this way or just personal preference?
Attempting to remove before can scratch the shaft and by just letting it melt, you never have to worry about that. With steel its not an issue but with graphite and paint its best to be as careful as possible
Great video. Have a question though, by using the butane flame, would you ever be concerned with reusing that shaft you pulled?
With a torch, you can really focus the heat and quickly break down the epoxy. As soon as the epoxy breaks down and the head starts to move in the puller you remove heat. This limits the exposure to the shaft.
I have never had an issue with using too much heat resulting in a ruined shaft because on the butane torch. It's all about taking the time to do it properly.
Leaves ferrule on 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
SUPERB. !!!
I'm guilty of cracking my brother's ProForce shaft in a rubber vice clamp while trying to change out his driver head. _ugh_
Live and learn.
Misleading title. It should read "Club Building After You Have Purchased Very Specific And Expensive Tools Of Many Different Types"