Damn I love your videos , you act so humble and thorough with your explanations. You don’t act like you know more and don’t have that “ why am I even explaining this you should already know” attitude
Just ordered my centric brake kit from Rockauto. Found a discount code so it was 255. Thanks for the advice man! They get here by next Thursday and me and my bud will put them on that Sunday! You’re the man!
Great job showing removal of slider pin and cleaning greasing them. Many ignore this step then end up with one or more seized pins that create uneven brake pad wear.
Mils Garage you're very welcome bro... awesome and very informative videos.. Im subscribing!!! I live in Los Angeles Ca near downtown.. (I dont know which Wilmintong area you are.. is it the one near Long Beach?) or is it in another state?
sweet! awesome! LA? we have lots of friends in entertainment out there :D i'll definitely have to get out that way some time.. hahahaha oops, i never said "delaware".. it's the little state south of NYC 😂 i wish i was near long beach lol one day though.. do u post shots of ur G?
Ngl this is probably one of the best how to's iv'e seen on YT. Clean, informative, and descriptive. Since you usually work on a G35 you should throw in the torque specs for that car for other G owners too. Great Video!
thanks buddy! it takes so much more time to make this style of instructional video.. it's hard for me to tell which videos will be received the best, so your feedback is incredibly appreciated. thank you so much! stay awesome 😎
I don’t even know if you will see this, but I have watched this video so many times just to keep the knowledge fresh in my head. Question though, what size bolts are on the back of the rotor? (The ones holding the caliper to the rotor) should I have that size in my socket set? Any ways, thanks for posting videos about G35’s there aren’t many 👍🏻keep up the good work!
hey Travis, the Caliper Bolts are 21mm. i have the sizes and torque specs in our Wheel Hub Replacement video for reference [ ua-cam.com/video/KAKKICX2wVU/v-deo.html ]. i think you should have a 21mm, but i just recently found that my traveling socket set only goes up to 19mm, so you might want to check. i currently have 3 more G35 videos on the editing block, so lots more G coming up :) thank you for your support!
This really helps. I don't know much about cars but I'm learning bc I want to be able to identify problems when they arise. That way I don't get taken advantage of. I would love to even learn how to do simple repairs eventually. But this was really helpful bc my Infiniti definitely needs some repairs.
you're exactly the type of person who i'm making these videos for.. knowledge is power, and you totally get that. thank you so much for your support! definitely let me know if you ever have any issues, questions, or would like to see anything specific in a video. we'll do our best to provide a solution. :)
Mils Garage No, thank you. Your content is informative, honest, resourceful, fun & easy to understand. Exactly what I need. You gained a subscriber. Keep up the great work!
I know I'm late but I feel you guys really have stepped up the quality and video angles recently. Love all the vids as usual they certainly teach me the shit I don't know how to. Have fun creating this awesome content
thanks Derek! i appreciate ur support :D we've been non-stop filming, editing and setting up the behind the scenes stuff for the last .. .. forever.. hopefully i can have the sticker sales set up soon, and i'm gonna send u urs tomorrow (likewise on the feeling of lateness)
helps a lot... very informative. and the video is very clear, no shakiness and there's actually somebody holding a camera instead of the person doing the repair and doing the filming. Please do more videos like changing out fluids and proper bleeding of fluids etc.
You helped me so much! I just did my brakes and rotors on my 350z but for some reason one of my pins wouldn't push in, so my rotors weren't spinning right so now I know. It needs to be greased! Thank you again! 🙏🏻 You earned a sub!!
I've never done a brake job but am pretty sure I could following your video. Excellent instructions and very good video close ups of the detailed steps. Thank you for your video.
One thing I didn’t see mentioned was that before you compress your pistons to leave the brake fluid top open because when you compress your pistons your pushing the fluid back up which leaves air compressed in your system
@@milsgarage Do you have to open the bleed valve to let old fluid out of caliper before compressing piston back in so you don't push old fluid back up to the m/c?.
My rear left rotor is doing the same thing. You can hear it while driving every time the wheel rotates. It's like a clicking sound that changes speed with how fast you are driving
@Sammyeggnog Yeah? It sounds like your axle joint might be failing and about to go. i would replace the axle on that side asap. You really don't want that to fail when you're driving
I am going back through some of your older stuff and this video was a great how to video. Maybe more of those in a separate playlist of How-To videos would be sweet!!!
Mils Garage [ DIY Vids ]: ua-cam.com/play/PLb1yla77QSRiz_2-4ZiD07IVeI448XfZd.html 🤷♂️😮 We have lots of created playlists. Sometimes i think maybe too many, but we haz wut you're looking for sir 💯
great tutorial, i have to the rear rotors on my g35 this weekend... but i was curious why there was an extra hole on the rotor... but i guess there is no reason for the extra hole... maybe weight reduction... thanks again!!
thanks for the question! i hear the hole is used to hold the rotor on with a screw for quick assembly.. but i've always just used one of the lugs and called it a day lol .. an extra screw sounds like an extra part to strip when u'r in a bind and need to change the rotor also thanks for your support! it really means a lot to us :)
Thanks for the elaborated information man and the background music was pretty awesome! I'm going to get new Brake rotors and pads pretty soon. If you do more G35 DIY vids, that would be cool too.
Props to you man as I don't even know why you have low followers on IG or Twitter. People are stupid as you'd think hearing and learning from a confident DIY guy they'd subscribe to learn more.....like me. Just followed you on Twitter dude. Thanks for putting out good stuff. #Cheers
Cheers buddy! Wow, thank you for the compliments! We really appreciate your support. We only have a $10 per month marketing budget atm, so I create all of the marketing, videos and also do all the promotions myself.. I'm really hoping the T-shirt and MG Decal sales pick up so we can grow quicker.. I'm at a point rn where UA-cam doesn't pay enough, and we're giving out all of the information we would use to create real revenue working on cars.. We could really use a share or two if you have the chance. Thanks again for being awesome :)
Wow! Talk about efficiency as most won't even be able to operate with that budget. Like seriously, kudos to you for being like us Marines and making do with what you have - as that's really impressive. My comments are simply that, comments to pay homage when homage is due. And yeah, maximizing social media can be difficult in terms of generating cash-flow, however, what you could do is talk about a current project you're doing to your car - as that's all TJ Hunt, Adam LZ, & Emelia Hartford did. Like don't get me wrong DIY videos are good, however, it really depends on "whom you want your audience to be." P.S. I don't do social media marketing, but I do know human behavior as a consultant. For instance, I market you guys all the time to my colleagues. However, the area that I live in, they don't care to DIY as they're spoiled (i.e., the Washington, DC area is filled with spoiled yuppies). Whereas, had I be operating in California? You'd grow as we kind of invented the car culture with F&F lol. Anyway cheers again as when the time comes (next year) I'll tag you to my twitter handle (once I swap out this VQ for a 2JZ VVTI setup). Other than that, you gained my follow when I saw you solved a Rubics Cube under 2 minutes lol. #Cheers
Yeah buddy! Thank you for your service sir. We're located in Delaware.. and would love to check out your car some time! Sounds like an awesome build you have going on O_O.. Oh yeah, I forgot about that video lol
yes you can, and that's really great advice. 😎👍 i was always taught to use a clamp for each piston, but there's always room for improvement, especially when it comes to efficiency. i really appreciate you tuning in and streamlining my processes further. thank you so much for your input and support!
High quality drilled rotors are reliable, safe, and run cooler and brake better than their counterparts. You must be thinking of cheap Chinese knockoffs. And the rotors have a light coating of oil to keep them from oxidizing due to exposure and moisture. It actually is not cosmoline, although Wikipedia inaccurately says so. I worked on U. S. Navy warships for many years and dealt with these chemicals. Heres a tip, use one of the old brake disks under your clamp to push in both caliper pistons together.
hey Tom! thank you for your service! i know where you're coming from, but i've had this conversation about drilled rotors with even dudes who live their life at the drag strip. drilled are not better in any way than simply slotted rotors. what type of oil do they put on if not cosmoline? and you're absolutely right about using the old brake disks to clamp the pistons. i learned of that method shortly after the video release 😎👍
Do you have any videos on replacing the window motor driver side? Mine just crapped out. You’re videos are super detailed so I always check with you before I start looking for other videos lol
@Eduardo Nunez Sorry, i've done the job before, but haven't filmed it yet.. It's a great idea for a video, but that won't help us much atm. i've been putting off reseting my driver-side motor for a while now.. Maybe it's time i film it. Thank you for your support Eduardo! 🤟😁 You're awesome.
Hey so I finally got the job done! My dad and brother helped me out! Took less than 1 hour with 3 pairs of hands lol. I took it for a spin and I still here a little scraping sound. Not as bad as before. I saw videos that maybe the cover is slightly bent? Does that sound right?
sorry for the delay! sure, the dust cover could be bent and contacting the rotor, or one could even be installed backwards.. how loud is the scraping sound? is it consistent or does it change? and thank you for your support Eduardo! :D
Mils Garage thanks man! It’s consistent but not as loud as when I had the old brakes and rotors. I don’t know if it’s normal or not. We didn’t mess with he dust shields but maybe whacking the rotor bent them
haha my bad, i just realized i messed with the dust shields to do the hub unit 😂. Yeah, great work Eduardo! but that scraping sound could be a busted axle, or even a bad bearing.. You shouldn't hear scraping for sure
awesome! glad to hear we could help out! in the comments, RegularassDave even brought up a good method for decompressing the pistons, where u take the old brake pad and put the c-clamp pressure on the pad & caliper (rather than directly on the piston).. either way works, but definitely don't hesitate to hit us up anytime for assistance :)
btw, stay tuned and please share with ur friends. we have some awesome exhaust mods coming up for the G that u might like, and next week's episode covers a whole lot of drifting :D
Hi, I was researching how to change my brakes and rotors since I got a quote and the mechanic told me it was going to cost around $700 to replace both my rear rotors and brake pads... my question is where is your garage located and how much do you charge for this repair? I’m pretty sure that with all the things needed that it’s out of my range of capabilities this early on... I’m gonna need to pay someone lol, but as a girl I’m skeptical that I’m going to get over charged for lack of knowledge.
$700 for 2x brakes and rotors? Are you buying some name brand drilled and slotted rotors? i've heard of $300 for 2x brakes and rotors for labor, but that's on the high end. The nicer rear rotors and brake pad kits on RockAuto.com run about $95 shipped. All together you'd be looking at ~$400 at a nice high end shop.. Are you at Mercedes? Are you driving a Mercedes or $70,000+ car? We're currently running a price of $420 for the labor of all 4 brakes and rotors + cost of parts. Wanna road trip to Delaware? Keep in mind all of these prices are today's rates. Maybe the other mechanic is working in 2025 prices, where candy bars cost $6.50 already
You don't need to fear being overcharged if you take the time to educate yourself on the cost of parts and estimate labor.... I mean you're on the video that shows you how to do it or make those estimations.... Don't choose helplessness :)
I got my rear brake calibers on my 2005 350z mixed up and not sure which side goes to which (dont have the box it came with because I turned my old ones in) now after I repainted them idk which ones goes to which side (never done this before) what should I look for the know which sides it goes to?
yep! same exact everything, unless u have the brembo's, but it's close enough.. u can actually use most of our G35 videos for reference to your 350Z ( G35 Vids: ua-cam.com/play/PLb1yla77QSRhqyz3BNtfja9-c8wWsdW0k.html ). we have lots more coming up, including budget exhaust mods :)
Was there a small set screw for that extra hole? I don't remember there being one, but I was wondering if it's just the wheel/lug nuts that hold the rotor in place.
7:44 after mounting the rotor, then putting on one lug nut- there’s a small hole between the lug bolts- I’m not a brake pro, it just seems like some vehicles have a set screw, but I don’t remember one. I have a slight vibration around 75-80 and I’m trying to narrow down the source. I had the tires re balanced and the guy said one of my front rotors was loose. I told him that they’re held secure by the lug nuts but the other side didn’t wiggle as easily. I just started wondering if I missed a set screw or something.
@@thebigempty_5792 Oh, i see. Yeah, some cars have screws that hold the rotor in place when the lug nuts are off.. Mine didn't come with any, and my old G didn't have them either. It won't cause a problem if they're not in. This is why i use a lug nut to hold it on. i had that vibration issue with my original wheels. i find that wheel vibrations like that are normally caused by small bends in the wheels [ caused by pot holes and speed bumps in combination with having low tire pressure ]. My mom's car had a vibration at 80mph, and i bought her new wheels; vibrations went away. She later told me she hit a big pot hole with the original wheels
It is normal for them to touch slightly, yes. If you just did them, you might want to remove the little caliper brackets and clean them off so they're bare metal again where the pad touches; Apply the grease to the caliper itself, where the bracket contacts the caliper (this will let them seat smoothly) i've learned a lot about brakes since making this video.. Please ask for clarification if needed. i'll be making an updated brake video soon
wait wut? haha i mean, those r two different things really.. we always try to include the maintenance info of the parts we replace, including fluids and what-not.. i can definitely do one on changing the cabin air filter (is the glove compartment the same on the 350z?), and any things that come up as issues.. i can do one on checking fluids too.. i'm planning on doing spark plugs, fuel lines, injectors and mapping as soon as the fuel pump goes (in aprox. 3-10K miles)
i have a rubbing noise sounds like it’s coming from the right front tire. it gets louder with more speed. would you be able to tell me what it could be?
Brake pads should come with those insert clips correct? Or would I have to order those separate? Only asking because I've only ever had my brakes serviced by professionals before, but I'm considering tackling my own brake pads next time they need replacing. Very nice video, thanks.
yeah, new clips come with the pads. i even just installed a caliper yesterday which came with it's own set of clips and new pins. and jic, when you get to the rear, you have to release the E-brake in order to remove the rotor
I don’t remember the video I mentioned that my G is chugging oil. Apparently not as bad as I thought. Did the oil change this past weekend and was only a quart that was gone. I had topped off a quart so I lost about 2 quarts in the 5k. Maybe you can make a video on the best way to get an accurate reading on our dispticks for Gs lol. It always looks either full or super low. No in between
@Eduardo Nunez Oh yeah? 2 quarts in 5k sounds a little high, but it's probably within an acceptable range. The best way to get an accurate reading? Don't run the motor 2 hours before checking and it should make it easier to take a reading.. i also hear some people modify the reading area of the stick to hold the oil more, but i personally wouldn't mess with it
Yessir, if that's the best time for you. It will be thicker after a cool night. The main reason is that when the engine is on, oil pressure blasts up the dipstick tube and that will make blotches of oil go pretty far up the stick
Mils Garage that makes sense. Anytime when I read it, it’s been blotchy so hard for me to tell if I’m low or not. It’s running a lot better since my last oil change. Swapped out the shitty camshaft sensors I had for Hitachi OEM and I switched to 10w30 full synthetic oil. It’s fun to drive again lol
@Eduardo Nunez Yep, coffee and oil check. Yo, that's awesome you fixed it 💯. It's a relieving feeling once you get the car to run right. Great work sir!
i can’t recall.. i feel like it’s the bottom, but i also feel like the one with the rubber is there cause the other one is a difficult fit.. Sorry G R, maybe someone in the comments will know. i believe they’ll work either way
@@milsgarage looking at your video (11:48), they are in the lower side. I disassembled to clean and lubricate them, but forgot how it was originally)) Thanks, your video helped me!
absolutely! we have an entire series on budget exhaust solutions for the G35 [ ua-cam.com/play/PLb1yla77QSRhHetRyP1EvIFUXLnK1uE6p.html ]. we even have video with another budget exhaust option being released this upcoming Tuesday. for my recommendation, it all depends on how loud you'd like to go.. my favorite combination so far has been expensive resonated test pipes, paired with the cheapest 2.5" ebay exhaust [ we went with BERK + Godspeed ], but it's definitely a little loud for many people's taste
This is the first i've ever heard of Permatex making an antiseize product, but Permatex is a big brand, so i imagine they probably make something similar to Copaslip. Sorry i'm not sure, i've only used Copaslip. Keep up the awesome work Eduardo!
I bought it when I had to change the o2 sensor on my father in laws Buick. It says anti seize aluminum lubricant. I’ll get some copaslip though to be safe lol. I gotta pick up brake cleaner and grease anyways
Oh cool, i'll have to check that stuff out sometime 👍. Good call on being safe with products. i just searched Permatex and Google must be stalking us, cause the first thing that popped up in the search was "Permatex Ultra Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant" 😂
Just make sure to take off the E-brake. It's the same thing. Also, don't grease the slides. Instead, grease behind the shim, where the shim and the caliper touch. It will help the shim slide on more evenly. You can also just grease the piston ends, rather than the pads themselves
@@milsgarage I have done many a chevy and know what to do someone striped a guide pin and the caliper isn't releasing so I'm replacing the whole thing this weekend
Actual race cars use drilled rotors to increase surface area for heat dissipation to warm the tires. But when buying drilled expensive is much better in terms of reliability, it’s going to be 600 bucks for my 15 inch drilled front rotors from a trust worthy name.
many people use many ideas to create "benefits," but i can assure you that metal which is heated expands. drilled heated metal expands unevenly because of pockets of cooler metal.. this promotes warping and cracking of the rotor, as the cooler metal can't expand at the same rate. race cars are also not daily drivers. they are driven for like 1 weekend a month, maybe. save your money.
Mils Garage Mils Garage the rotors i am referring to are Baer rotors, which use cast steel instead of iron, the specific heat capacity is quite a bit higher, so it will most likely never expand enough to overcome the structure of steel even in racing applications, especially DD wear and tear, i would agree cheap iron would expand and contract causeing stressed areas on the iron leading to failure, but they are made of steel for a reason. R&D teams get paid the big bucks for finding the perfect material for the task.
Mils Garage i just thought what you said was funny, it’s like what you’d hear on a Honda forum. i just got my bachelors degree in material science, so it just didn’t sit well with me. I’m sure if i bought eBay rotors they’d blow up but i like to go for quality parts engineered for specific purposes with specialized materials. No corners being cut on my car.
R&D ftw. well.. that sounds like a very educated piece of information you just provided, as well as a great product. i personally don't have the money for it, but if anyone is looking for a set of drilled rotors, that's probably a good way to go. :)
Mils Garage yeah real deal race car shit. The more you know lol. Great video btw definitely helped me help my buddy do his brakes, and pick up some MM wrenches i didn’t have, it’s all American in my garage 😂
hate to bother you on the g 35 cooling issue The hose running from the overflow tank to the radiator is missing one of the clamps. Would that be enough to keep it from going back into the radiator?
Do the pistons still work? How are the seals? i use OEM spec rotors and calipers from RockAuto.com , and always do core returns.. i think Stoptech is an option on there, but you might want to check them out if you feel you'd like more options
the regular rotors and pads should work for you, but i do see they offer some which say "sport" in the descriptions on www.rockauto.com for like $1 more per pad type of thing.. the ones that say sport may have slightly better specs [though i'm pretty sure the base ones are the same as the sport]
excellent vid. Im beginning to hear metal from my brakes, so its time. what brand rotor did you use and how much was it? by the way, have you had any front suspension squeaking issues when you go over bumps? Ball joints maybe? Im also in the process of replacing the valve cover gaskets. i have a 2003 with 112k miles on it.
Thank you sir! Awesome work. Suspension squeaking? Sure. Depends on the setup and would need a thorough inspection. We can fix it at our shop if you're in the Delaware area
@@milsgarage Actually I live in Kobe, Japan (which is why i cant bring myself to calling that car an infinity g35. its a skyline gt 350) but in california at the moment for another year and 4 months.
ii ne~.. Boku mo mae ni Kobe ni sunde imashita. Himeji Jo ha mecha kirei deshou? 😂 Mo sugu ni, tabun MG no shoppu ikenai ne? （笑）. i need to go to Cali some time.. i made it out to Vegas and Colorado, but have only had LA connecting flights. Skyline deshou?? See, you know! lol i tell people.. Not everyone listens lol
Hey man I love your videos! I shop on rockauto a lot as well. I want to do a full rotor and pad job. I think I see the centric kit you bought. I see a power stop kit for about 40 dollars less. Would you still stick with the Centric? I want to do this in the next two months
Hey Eduardo, thank you for your support! Yep, i stick with Centric. i don't have any experience with Power Stop, but i do a lot of research into the types of negative reviews for products. some of the reviews for the other brakes had people complaining about squeals. i've never had any issues with Centric, and the $40 is for peace of mind. if you're doing the job yourself, go with better parts :) it'll still be cheaper
Mils Garage hey man. One more quick question. Is the kit you bought, he one there about 260 all together? I read centric bought stop tech so I’m much more comfortable now lol!
i just went to RockAuto to check.. the parts are constantly being updated on the site, so it looks nothing like how it did when i last did my brakes. looks like Power Stop makes all their top end options now? a merger? ok, well.. yep, you'll probably be alright :)
You'll see at RockAuto.com that they either list that the rotors are Brembo compatible, or don't say Brembo. From that info, i gather that the dimensions are different between the two. Looks like Brembo uses 12.76" Vs OEM 11.654". You're going to have to look at your brakes to know whether you have Brembo brake calipers or not, and then you can make your selection from there
Hand torque normally comes to around 21ft lb, but don’t use a torque bar or impact gun. The pins are not meant to rotate during use, and they should fit snug w/o much torque
They’re putting interesting coatings on these days.. i’d spray them, but i’d believe it if they had new rust-resistant finishes that don’t require the preservative stuff. The brake clean shouldn’t hurt the finish, but you could always test a small spot to see how it reacts 👍
Hey random question. Do you have any videos regarding key fobs? I bought the car from a buddy of mine over a year ago. He gave the Infiniti fob that it came with but it was broken. My G has a keyless start. I just crank the ignition when the fob is in there.(if it worked). Right now, I’m using the key that comes in the fob
Yeah. Still didn’t work though. Then I took it to my local mechanic and they ran over it lol. I’ve seen that people buy the fob from amazon and program it to their car. Insert and take out the key like 10 times and a few other steps. I tried it but couldn’t get it to program with my car. I’m wondering if it’s due to mine being keyless start. The videos I’ve seen of people programming, theirs takes a regular key to start the car.
your local mechanic should stop doing drugs. i feel like you should be able to program it regardless of being keyless start or not.. i don't know the programming sequence off the top of my head.. i just Googled "how to program keyless fob g35" and that's the sequence i would try
is it a 2008? 2008 Infiniti G35 Keyless Entry Remote Fob Smart Key Programming Instructions: There is no manual on board procedure to program a keyless remote to this vehicle. This vehicle requires special equipment be connected to the vehicle to program the remote.
So I technically don’t have to remove the entire caliper assembly from the rotor if all I’m doing is swapping my brake pads correct? Or is that necessary to remove the old brake pads? Gotta replace mine soon since they’re pretty worn but my rotors and calipers aren’t even a year old yet so they’re still good.
Mils Garage Quick reply, awesome stuff man, thank you. Also, the caliper pins should be located in similar locations for both the front and rear correct? And the process is the same for the rear also?
for two solid reasons: 1. i showed people who are trying to save money how to save money, including work-arounds for not having expensive tools such as impact guns and compressors. 2. for production reasons. .. just thinking about it.. i don't want people to be using impact guns around brake components anyway.
I see.. well I have a impact wrench and I don't see the problem with just breaking it free and taking it off by hand or with a ratchet. The reason why I'm saying this for using the impact wrench is cause breaking it loose with a ratchet you're more prone to hitting your arm, etc in the fender wells and that shit hurts. Lol. Only to break them loose, not tightening, cause I have a torque wrench for that.
LOL sure. you can use an impact gun to break them loose.. i just hope you don't break a bolt, cause that would suck. many of our viewers are just learning about cars and don't have a lot of experience or funds.. i wouldn't want them to accidentally hit the caliper pin bolts with an impact gun, so it makes sense not to recommend them using an impact gun on brake jobs. i'm glad you know not to torque bolts with impact guns 😎👍
Hello could you tell me what's the torque specs for the rear banjo bolts please I tightened mine but when I checked it again today (a few days later) both sides are leaking (cant seem to find it online) please help thanks
i've read 35ft lb.. BUT i don't think anyone should ever torque a banjo bolt. i recommend double washer, and slight crank hand torque. only use copper washers.
Yes it's one on each end and both sides are leaking (both rear) I painted them before I reinstalled the calipers ico if the paint has to do with anything? I covered the tip when I painted them I'll have to take them off and check again :(
a dab coat of paint could definitely give a less than perfect seal.. sounds like it's getting messy, but you might want to disassemble it, go over the edge with a 1000 grit sandpaper to get rid of any debris, and see if that makes the seal
i believe there may be a difference if you have Brembo vs standard Nissan brakes, but i'm not certain. Otherwise, if it's Nissan OEM brakes, it should have the same size rotor for all years
Please update this with the proper info on what grease to use on the pins. You want to use "silicone" lubricant, not "synthetic"...unless you want a seized up caliper from swollen bushings on the slide pins.
Actually i want Synthetic. i thought you'd be telling me the correct way to grease behind the brackets, an not on the ears, but... Yeah, i really meant only use the Synthetic.
@@milsgarage Synthetic isn't EPDM/rubber safe and will cause swelling. The manual calls for "silicone based grease", not synthetic for that very reason. When repairing seized caliper pins, I've dealt with everything from Permatex synthetic green or purple, to CRC synthetic brake lube, which CRC states is for metal to metal only and isn't rubber safe and recommends CRC Silaramic for use with rubber components. My recommendation is 3M silicone brake paste or Napa Syl-glide, both of which has never caused swelling in my 14 years experience. You can use whatever you want, I'm just trying to save your viewers an expensive repair.
i respect that you're looking out for our viewers. i'm researching more on the subject. i've never had a problem with my caliper slides while using synthetic brake grease on them.. Except the first time i ever did my brakes was an epic fail, as i used ball bearing grease. Luckily i only did it to one caliper lol
I know this is an old video.....I thought the spring tab on the upper went INTO the pad hoop.....it looks like you just pressed it over...not one video on YT shows this little detail :(
Sorry but slotted rotors not only look badass on cars and such and make a massive difference in look and style and performance but are badass I have them on all my vehicles never ever had a problem and they look sic
Cross drilled rotors DO NOT CAUSE CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. They are fine on daily driven vehicles because daily driven vehicles WILL NEVER see brake temperatures associated with track cars. When using cross drilled rotors on a vehicle that sees regular track events. The heat can build up in the rotors and cause stress cracks. Thus, it is better to use slotted rotors for track use. Manufacturers like Ferrari, Lamborghini and many others have been using cross drilled rotors on DAILY DRIVEN CARS for years as have I. With proper use, you WON'T HAVE ANY PROBLEMS OUT OF CROSS DRILLED ROTORS EVER. Also, cross drilled rotors cool down faster during normal operation and they weigh a little less do to the cross drilled holes in the rotor.
Good job. At the start, I would pop the hood and open the brake fluid reservoir and wrap a rag around it. Sometimes when you push the caliper back in, it will overflow and you don't want that to happen, or you can suck a little bit of fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe so it doesn't overflow and top it off when you are done.
cool, yeah that will work well. it will be easier to press the pistons back into position like that, but could get messy. there shouldn't be an issue either way
Compress the piston in using the old brake pad next time.
Ryan said his boss does it with the pad too.. i'll try that way next time for sure. thanks for the great input :)
i cringed when i saw the c clamp being used on the edge of the piston. ive seen people cock them doing it that way.
Thats a great hint thanks dude!
@@milsgaragewhat mm socket for caliper bolt 19?
My channel locks weren't big enough so I placed them on the inside and opened them up. It worked fine.
Damn I love your videos , you act so humble and thorough with your explanations. You don’t act like you know more and don’t have that “ why am I even explaining this you should already know” attitude
hey Juan! your comments always make me feel awesome. :D thank you so much for your support!
The best and most informative video on UA-cam for a G35 rotor/brake installation!
we're glad to help! thank you for your support! 🤟😎👍
Just ordered my centric brake kit from Rockauto. Found a discount code so it was 255. Thanks for the advice man! They get here by next Thursday and me and my bud will put them on that Sunday! You’re the man!
Awesome! Any time Eduardo! Thank you for your support! 💯 🤟😎👍
Great job showing removal of slider pin and cleaning greasing them. Many ignore this step then end up with one or more seized pins that create uneven brake pad wear.
definitely! properly maintaining the pins is like half the battle. it's cool that you know 😎👍 Thank you for your support!
Have little to no experience with cars but you’ve honestly helped me out so much thank you for your videos I appreciate it 🤙🏽
Awesome! That was the goal 🤘🤘🤘 i really appreciate your support!
these are the type of mechanic I would trust and want to work with my 04 infiniti g35 coupe...
wow, thanks so much for your support! if you're in the Wilmington area and ever need anything done, definitely hit us up :D
Mils Garage you're very welcome bro... awesome and very informative videos.. Im subscribing!!!
I live in Los Angeles Ca near downtown.. (I dont know which Wilmintong area you are.. is it the one near Long Beach?) or is it in another state?
sweet! awesome! LA? we have lots of friends in entertainment out there :D i'll definitely have to get out that way some time.. hahahaha oops, i never said "delaware".. it's the little state south of NYC 😂 i wish i was near long beach lol one day though.. do u post shots of ur G?
A trick I do when I compress the caliper, is I use the old pads to compress the pistons so it'll do it evenly
@Rickk R. Absolutely great advice sir 💯
Watching 2 years later but I’m about to pick up my 3rd G, as a pleasure car this time, and I’ll need to do the brakes. Thanks for the in depth video!
Nice! Thank you for your support! i'm the same. i'm only on my 2nd G, but if anything happens to it, i'm just gonna buy another lol
Ngl this is probably one of the best how to's iv'e seen on YT. Clean, informative, and descriptive. Since you usually work on a G35 you should throw in the torque specs for that car for other G owners too. Great Video!
You’re awesome @Street’s Disciple ! Thank you so much for your support! 🤟
Great video
Really professional
Like you guys better when joking around
But it was a really good step by step video
Keep the good work and stay safe
thanks buddy! it takes so much more time to make this style of instructional video.. it's hard for me to tell which videos will be received the best, so your feedback is incredibly appreciated. thank you so much! stay awesome 😎
This was the most detailed video I have ever seen for brakes and rotors! 👍🏼 solid video!!
awesome! thank you for your support! 🤟😎👍
I don’t even know if you will see this, but I have watched this video so many times just to keep the knowledge fresh in my head. Question though, what size bolts are on the back of the rotor? (The ones holding the caliper to the rotor) should I have that size in my socket set? Any ways, thanks for posting videos about G35’s there aren’t many 👍🏻keep up the good work!
hey Travis, the Caliper Bolts are 21mm. i have the sizes and torque specs in our Wheel Hub Replacement video for reference [ ua-cam.com/video/KAKKICX2wVU/v-deo.html ]. i think you should have a 21mm, but i just recently found that my traveling socket set only goes up to 19mm, so you might want to check. i currently have 3 more G35 videos on the editing block, so lots more G coming up :) thank you for your support!
If you have some free time can show us how to replace the headlight bulb, and park light on a infiniti g35
This really helps. I don't know much about cars but I'm learning bc I want to be able to identify problems when they arise. That way I don't get taken advantage of. I would love to even learn how to do simple repairs eventually. But this was really helpful bc my Infiniti definitely needs some repairs.
you're exactly the type of person who i'm making these videos for.. knowledge is power, and you totally get that. thank you so much for your support! definitely let me know if you ever have any issues, questions, or would like to see anything specific in a video. we'll do our best to provide a solution. :)
Mils Garage No, thank you. Your content is informative, honest, resourceful, fun & easy to understand. Exactly what I need. You gained a subscriber. Keep up the great work!
sweet! we certainly try! Okay Chweee, you're really awesome. 😎👍👍
I know I'm late but I feel you guys really have stepped up the quality and video angles recently. Love all the vids as usual they certainly teach me the shit I don't know how to. Have fun creating this awesome content
thanks Derek! i appreciate ur support :D we've been non-stop filming, editing and setting up the behind the scenes stuff for the last .. .. forever.. hopefully i can have the sticker sales set up soon, and i'm gonna send u urs tomorrow (likewise on the feeling of lateness)
After a year of not running the G for some stupid reasons I needed to watch this for extra info. Thank you guys! New subscriber here 💪🏽
awesome to hear we could help! thank you for your support!
helps a lot... very informative. and the video is very clear, no shakiness and there's actually somebody holding a camera instead of the person doing the repair and doing the filming.
Please do more videos like changing out fluids and proper bleeding of fluids etc.
wow, thanks for ur support and feedback! it means a lot :D stay tuned, we'll definitely be covering more on fluids as we go
Changing brakes now. THANKS SO MUCH FOR VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GBYAY!!!
Any time Ken! Keep up the great work 🤘🤘🤘
You helped me so much! I just did my brakes and rotors on my 350z but for some reason one of my pins wouldn't push in, so my rotors weren't spinning right so now I know. It needs to be greased! Thank you again! 🙏🏻 You earned a sub!!
Yeah? Awesome! i'm happy to know we were able to help! Great work getting it all set up right in the end! 👍👍👍 Thank you for your support! 🤟
Thanks!
Ayeee, you’re Awesome Ken 🤘🤘🤘
I've never done a brake job but am pretty sure I could following your video. Excellent instructions and very good video close ups of the detailed steps. Thank you for your video.
Awesome! We definitely try really hard to make our videos useful. Thank you so much for your support Bob! i really appreciate it 🤟
I usually use the old brake pad with the clamp to compress the pistons back.
Great, me too at this point 🤘
One thing I didn’t see mentioned was that before you compress your pistons to leave the brake fluid top open because when you compress your pistons your pushing the fluid back up which leaves air compressed in your system
That's a very good point, and yessir! Nice catch Danny 👍👍👍
@@milsgarage Do you have to open the bleed valve to let old fluid out of caliper before compressing piston back in so you don't push old fluid back up to the m/c?.
Very helpful video bro very well explained now ima end up doing rotors I’m more confident thank you🙏
Awesome! Keep up the great work Adrian 💪💪💪
My rear left rotor is doing the same thing. You can hear it while driving every time the wheel rotates. It's like a clicking sound that changes speed with how fast you are driving
@Sammyeggnog Yeah? It sounds like your axle joint might be failing and about to go. i would replace the axle on that side asap. You really don't want that to fail when you're driving
@@milsgarage thanks man. That's good to know. I thought it was just my brakes being wonky but that sounds possible as well
@Sammyeggnog Any time buddy 💯. For sure, it'll definitely be good to check both out. Stay safe
Will definitely use this video when it comes time to do my brakes! Thank you!
you're very welcome! thank you so much for your support!
Joe Dirt really impressed with those pythons 💪🏻
😂👍
yoooo that’s who i was thinking about 😂
Best video I’ve seen but damn all these years and I just noticed the balencis
Thank you! 🤘🤘🤘 i really appreciate your support 👍
You can put the old brakes on the piston get and use the c clap to do both
yessir, that’s a great way to compress the pistons. i believe that’s one of the top comments on the video 🤟😎👍 thank you for your support!
I am going back through some of your older stuff and this video was a great how to video. Maybe more of those in a separate playlist of How-To videos would be sweet!!!
Mils Garage [ DIY Vids ]: ua-cam.com/play/PLb1yla77QSRiz_2-4ZiD07IVeI448XfZd.html 🤷♂️😮 We have lots of created playlists. Sometimes i think maybe too many, but we haz wut you're looking for sir 💯
great tutorial, i have to the rear rotors on my g35 this weekend... but i was curious why there was an extra hole on the rotor... but i guess there is no reason for the extra hole... maybe weight reduction... thanks again!!
thanks for the question! i hear the hole is used to hold the rotor on with a screw for quick assembly.. but i've always just used one of the lugs and called it a day lol .. an extra screw sounds like an extra part to strip when u'r in a bind and need to change the rotor
also thanks for your support! it really means a lot to us :)
That makes sense, but i think i'll go with the lug nut too. thanks for the response!! i subbed, can't wait to see more!
word! you're awesome. :D
Could you have used your brake pad ones you took off instead of using to c clamps😳
it would be great if you can do a video on the rear of the G35. Thanks for the excellent video.
i'll be sure to cover it when i work on the rear :) thanks for your support!
Nicely done, very informative.
Awesome content. Can you guys do a vid on replacing door lock actuators considering they go out fairly often in early G coupes?
I torqued my bolt to 110 ft lbs and it snapped thanks alot
Your bolt sucks. You're welcome.
Thanks for the elaborated information man and the background music was pretty awesome! I'm going to get new Brake rotors and pads pretty soon. If you do more G35 DIY vids, that would be cool too.
Holy old comment! Thank you! i'll have more G35 coming up for sure 👍👍👍
@@milsgarage It’s all good. I sold that G35. Good luck boss!
@Moises De Dios Sold it? 🥲 i can't figure out what i would replace a G35 with.. A Huracan. Enjoy your Huracan sir. Stay awesome 🤘
Ahhhhhhh! Just what I needed!!! Thank you sir!!!!
u r very welcome :) we have lots more videos for the G35/350Z if u ever need them too :D
Props to you man as I don't even know why you have low followers on IG or Twitter. People are stupid as you'd think hearing and learning from a confident DIY guy they'd subscribe to learn more.....like me. Just followed you on Twitter dude. Thanks for putting out good stuff. #Cheers
Cheers buddy! Wow, thank you for the compliments! We really appreciate your support. We only have a $10 per month marketing budget atm, so I create all of the marketing, videos and also do all the promotions myself.. I'm really hoping the T-shirt and MG Decal sales pick up so we can grow quicker.. I'm at a point rn where UA-cam doesn't pay enough, and we're giving out all of the information we would use to create real revenue working on cars.. We could really use a share or two if you have the chance. Thanks again for being awesome :)
Wow! Talk about efficiency as most won't even be able to operate with that budget. Like seriously, kudos to you for being like us Marines and making do with what you have - as that's really impressive. My comments are simply that, comments to pay homage when homage is due. And yeah, maximizing social media can be difficult in terms of generating cash-flow, however, what you could do is talk about a current project you're doing to your car - as that's all TJ Hunt, Adam LZ, & Emelia Hartford did. Like don't get me wrong DIY videos are good, however, it really depends on "whom you want your audience to be."
P.S. I don't do social media marketing, but I do know human behavior as a consultant. For instance, I market you guys all the time to my colleagues. However, the area that I live in, they don't care to DIY as they're spoiled (i.e., the Washington, DC area is filled with spoiled yuppies). Whereas, had I be operating in California? You'd grow as we kind of invented the car culture with F&F lol. Anyway cheers again as when the time comes (next year) I'll tag you to my twitter handle (once I swap out this VQ for a 2JZ VVTI setup). Other than that, you gained my follow when I saw you solved a Rubics Cube under 2 minutes lol. #Cheers
Yeah buddy! Thank you for your service sir. We're located in Delaware.. and would love to check out your car some time! Sounds like an awesome build you have going on O_O.. Oh yeah, I forgot about that video lol
Great Mechanic! Nice job and explanation.
thank you for your support Rick! 🤟😎👍
Good video, helped me alot.
p.s. coat hanger worked instead of bungee by the way.
Awesome! i appreciate your support Caleb 🤘. i’m gonna have to try the coat hanger at the shop 👍
Don’t get me wrong it was a great video very informative and I use that technique to change my son breaks👌
yes you can, and that's really great advice. 😎👍 i was always taught to use a clamp for each piston, but there's always room for improvement, especially when it comes to efficiency. i really appreciate you tuning in and streamlining my processes further. thank you so much for your input and support!
High quality drilled rotors are reliable, safe, and run cooler and brake better than their counterparts. You must be thinking of cheap Chinese knockoffs. And the rotors have a light coating of oil to keep them from oxidizing due to exposure and moisture. It actually is not cosmoline, although Wikipedia inaccurately says so. I worked on U. S. Navy warships for many years and dealt with these chemicals. Heres a tip, use one of the old brake disks under your clamp to push in both caliper pistons together.
hey Tom! thank you for your service! i know where you're coming from, but i've had this conversation about drilled rotors with even dudes who live their life at the drag strip. drilled are not better in any way than simply slotted rotors. what type of oil do they put on if not cosmoline? and you're absolutely right about using the old brake disks to clamp the pistons. i learned of that method shortly after the video release 😎👍
Do you have any videos on replacing the window motor driver side? Mine just crapped out. You’re videos are super detailed so I always check with you before I start looking for other videos lol
@Eduardo Nunez Sorry, i've done the job before, but haven't filmed it yet.. It's a great idea for a video, but that won't help us much atm. i've been putting off reseting my driver-side motor for a while now.. Maybe it's time i film it. Thank you for your support Eduardo! 🤟😁 You're awesome.
Mils Garage yeah I read it’s a common issue. I still rock my Mils Garage shirt all the time!
@Eduardo Nunez Yessir, that's what i hear too. Do you!?🤘😎👍👍👍 You sir, are a Rock Star** 💯 Thank you Thank you Thank you Eduardo!!
Hey so I finally got the job done! My dad and brother helped me out! Took less than 1 hour with 3 pairs of hands lol. I took it for a spin and I still here a little scraping sound. Not as bad as before. I saw videos that maybe the cover is slightly bent? Does that sound right?
sorry for the delay! sure, the dust cover could be bent and contacting the rotor, or one could even be installed backwards.. how loud is the scraping sound? is it consistent or does it change? and thank you for your support Eduardo! :D
Mils Garage thanks man! It’s consistent but not as loud as when I had the old brakes and rotors. I don’t know if it’s normal or not. We didn’t mess with he dust shields but maybe whacking the rotor bent them
haha my bad, i just realized i messed with the dust shields to do the hub unit 😂. Yeah, great work Eduardo! but that scraping sound could be a busted axle, or even a bad bearing.. You shouldn't hear scraping for sure
Can u provide a link for where you got rotors I’ll subscribe lol
RockAuto.com 👍
So happy when doing this lol great job guys new subscriber here 🙋🏽♂️
lol thanks for ur support! r u working on a build?
Mils Garage yea trying to change my rotors on my g35 so now I know how lol great detail by the way
awesome! glad to hear we could help out! in the comments, RegularassDave even brought up a good method for decompressing the pistons, where u take the old brake pad and put the c-clamp pressure on the pad & caliper (rather than directly on the piston).. either way works, but definitely don't hesitate to hit us up anytime for assistance :)
btw, stay tuned and please share with ur friends. we have some awesome exhaust mods coming up for the G that u might like, and next week's episode covers a whole lot of drifting :D
Mils Garage I will man can't wait for the next one 😎
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing
Sweet. Thank you for your support Brian!
Hi, I was researching how to change my brakes and rotors since I got a quote and the mechanic told me it was going to cost around $700 to replace both my rear rotors and brake pads... my question is where is your garage located and how much do you charge for this repair? I’m pretty sure that with all the things needed that it’s out of my range of capabilities this early on... I’m gonna need to pay someone lol, but as a girl I’m skeptical that I’m going to get over charged for lack of knowledge.
$700 for 2x brakes and rotors? Are you buying some name brand drilled and slotted rotors? i've heard of $300 for 2x brakes and rotors for labor, but that's on the high end. The nicer rear rotors and brake pad kits on RockAuto.com run about $95 shipped. All together you'd be looking at ~$400 at a nice high end shop.. Are you at Mercedes? Are you driving a Mercedes or $70,000+ car? We're currently running a price of $420 for the labor of all 4 brakes and rotors + cost of parts. Wanna road trip to Delaware? Keep in mind all of these prices are today's rates. Maybe the other mechanic is working in 2025 prices, where candy bars cost $6.50 already
You don't need to fear being overcharged if you take the time to educate yourself on the cost of parts and estimate labor.... I mean you're on the video that shows you how to do it or make those estimations....
Don't choose helplessness :)
Lol, ur point exactly.. I’m on this video. It’s for a reason. But hey, thanks for the “advice”
Great hands on video. ..thank you
thank you so much for your support!
I got my rear brake calibers on my 2005 350z mixed up and not sure which side goes to which (dont have the box it came with because I turned my old ones in) now after I repainted them idk which ones goes to which side (never done this before) what should I look for the know which sides it goes to?
the bleeder valves go on top. so do the wear detectors.
Would this be a similar task to changing out the brakes and rotors on a 350z? Thanks for the video!
yep! same exact everything, unless u have the brembo's, but it's close enough.. u can actually use most of our G35 videos for reference to your 350Z ( G35 Vids: ua-cam.com/play/PLb1yla77QSRhqyz3BNtfja9-c8wWsdW0k.html ). we have lots more coming up, including budget exhaust mods :)
Sweet! Thanks man for the info, and links! subbed
awesome! that's what we're here for lol thank you so much for your support!
Quick question, I’m looking around for vented rotors Amazon keeps bringing up slotted and drilled also other websites only have drilled and slotted
Most rotors in 2022 are vented, and OEM spec replacements can be found at RockAuto.com
@@milsgarage thanks for the help! Highly appreciative of your content brother
Was there a small set screw for that extra hole? I don't remember there being one, but I was wondering if it's just the wheel/lug nuts that hold the rotor in place.
Which hole?
7:44 after mounting the rotor, then putting on one lug nut- there’s a small hole between the lug bolts- I’m not a brake pro, it just seems like some vehicles have a set screw, but I don’t remember one. I have a slight vibration around 75-80 and I’m trying to narrow down the source. I had the tires re balanced and the guy said one of my front rotors was loose. I told him that they’re held secure by the lug nuts but the other side didn’t wiggle as easily. I just started wondering if I missed a set screw or something.
@@thebigempty_5792 Oh, i see. Yeah, some cars have screws that hold the rotor in place when the lug nuts are off.. Mine didn't come with any, and my old G didn't have them either. It won't cause a problem if they're not in. This is why i use a lug nut to hold it on. i had that vibration issue with my original wheels. i find that wheel vibrations like that are normally caused by small bends in the wheels [ caused by pot holes and speed bumps in combination with having low tire pressure ]. My mom's car had a vibration at 80mph, and i bought her new wheels; vibrations went away. She later told me she hit a big pot hole with the original wheels
@@thebigempty_5792 Btw, every Toyota and Honda that's come in the shop have had the rotor screws 👍
After doing brakes and turning the rotors my pads are rubbing light with slight drag. It’s not bad just making sure it normal after doing a brake job
It is normal for them to touch slightly, yes. If you just did them, you might want to remove the little caliper brackets and clean them off so they're bare metal again where the pad touches; Apply the grease to the caliper itself, where the bracket contacts the caliper (this will let them seat smoothly)
i've learned a lot about brakes since making this video.. Please ask for clarification if needed. i'll be making an updated brake video soon
@@milsgarage very much appreciate. Keep up the good work
question i need to change my rear brake caliper , do i need to bleed the brake lines too?
You should at least bleed the brake line that you worked on. Don’t want air pockets in the lines 👍
Really goo video! thanks for the great content
yooo, thanks so much for ur support! it means a lot to us :D
Do you plan to have a tune up tutorial soon?
I have a 350z I have been using your channel as a guide to work on based off the G35 videos LOL
lol perfect! VQ FTW :) when u say 'tune up'.. r we talking all the filters and fluids? spark plugs?..
Yeah exactly
wait wut? haha i mean, those r two different things really.. we always try to include the maintenance info of the parts we replace, including fluids and what-not.. i can definitely do one on changing the cabin air filter (is the glove compartment the same on the 350z?), and any things that come up as issues.. i can do one on checking fluids too.. i'm planning on doing spark plugs, fuel lines, injectors and mapping as soon as the fuel pump goes (in aprox. 3-10K miles)
i have a rubbing noise sounds like it’s coming from the right front tire. it gets louder with more speed. would you be able to tell me what it could be?
Bearing, warped rotor, heat shield.. i’d diagnose those first
Brake pads should come with those insert clips correct? Or would I have to order those separate? Only asking because I've only ever had my brakes serviced by professionals before, but I'm considering tackling my own brake pads next time they need replacing. Very nice video, thanks.
yeah, new clips come with the pads. i even just installed a caliper yesterday which came with it's own set of clips and new pins. and jic, when you get to the rear, you have to release the E-brake in order to remove the rotor
You don’t absolutely need new clips. Just clean the old ones with brake cleaner and a wire brush and reinstall. You’ll be fine.
I don’t remember the video I mentioned that my G is chugging oil. Apparently not as bad as I thought. Did the oil change this past weekend and was only a quart that was gone. I had topped off a quart so I lost about 2 quarts in the 5k. Maybe you can make a video on the best way to get an accurate reading on our dispticks for Gs lol. It always looks either full or super low. No in between
@Eduardo Nunez Oh yeah? 2 quarts in 5k sounds a little high, but it's probably within an acceptable range. The best way to get an accurate reading? Don't run the motor 2 hours before checking and it should make it easier to take a reading.. i also hear some people modify the reading area of the stick to hold the oil more, but i personally wouldn't mess with it
Mils Garage so read in the morning before start up?
Yessir, if that's the best time for you. It will be thicker after a cool night. The main reason is that when the engine is on, oil pressure blasts up the dipstick tube and that will make blotches of oil go pretty far up the stick
Mils Garage that makes sense. Anytime when I read it, it’s been blotchy so hard for me to tell if I’m low or not. It’s running a lot better since my last oil change. Swapped out the shitty camshaft sensors I had for Hitachi OEM and I switched to 10w30 full synthetic oil. It’s fun to drive again lol
@Eduardo Nunez Yep, coffee and oil check. Yo, that's awesome you fixed it 💯. It's a relieving feeling once you get the car to run right. Great work sir!
Question. The breaking pins, that has rubber part should be located on the upper or on the lower side of caliper?
i can’t recall.. i feel like it’s the bottom, but i also feel like the one with the rubber is there cause the other one is a difficult fit.. Sorry G R, maybe someone in the comments will know. i believe they’ll work either way
@@milsgarage looking at your video (11:48), they are in the lower side. I disassembled to clean and lubricate them, but forgot how it was originally)) Thanks, your video helped me!
@G R Yeah? Awesome 👏😎 Thank you for your support! Keep up the great work 🤟😁
Question, why would you change the brake pad if its like brand new? 8:08
Cause one side was worn more than the other. You want them to wear evenly. Also, because i had them, and i’d rather set it all perfect, than save $7
Had to replace both my calipers and brake pads and rotors
@Juice 423 Yeah? Sounds about right this time of the year. Awesome work 🤟
I'm looking for a exhaust but I'm on a budget... And recommendations?
absolutely! we have an entire series on budget exhaust solutions for the G35 [ ua-cam.com/play/PLb1yla77QSRhHetRyP1EvIFUXLnK1uE6p.html ]. we even have video with another budget exhaust option being released this upcoming Tuesday. for my recommendation, it all depends on how loud you'd like to go.. my favorite combination so far has been expensive resonated test pipes, paired with the cheapest 2.5" ebay exhaust [ we went with BERK + Godspeed ], but it's definitely a little loud for many people's taste
How does the technique where u use the old brake pad to compress the piston work?
Great question! You can use the pads and c-clamp to compress equal pressure on both of the pistons at once
Would permatex work instead of copaslip? I’m getting ready to tackle the job this weekend!
This is the first i've ever heard of Permatex making an antiseize product, but Permatex is a big brand, so i imagine they probably make something similar to Copaslip. Sorry i'm not sure, i've only used Copaslip. Keep up the awesome work Eduardo!
I bought it when I had to change the o2 sensor on my father in laws Buick. It says anti seize aluminum lubricant. I’ll get some copaslip though to be safe lol. I gotta pick up brake cleaner and grease anyways
Oh cool, i'll have to check that stuff out sometime 👍. Good call on being safe with products. i just searched Permatex and Google must be stalking us, cause the first thing that popped up in the search was "Permatex Ultra Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant" 😂
Getting ready to do the rear brakes on my g hope it's that easy
Just make sure to take off the E-brake. It's the same thing. Also, don't grease the slides. Instead, grease behind the shim, where the shim and the caliper touch. It will help the shim slide on more evenly. You can also just grease the piston ends, rather than the pads themselves
@@milsgarage I have done many a chevy and know what to do someone striped a guide pin and the caliper isn't releasing so I'm replacing the whole thing this weekend
What’s the best full brake kit to install on a 2004 g35 sedan
Something no super expensive but a good brake kit
Its never that easy
Actual race cars use drilled rotors to increase surface area for heat dissipation to warm the tires. But when buying drilled expensive is much better in terms of reliability, it’s going to be 600 bucks for my 15 inch drilled front rotors from a trust worthy name.
many people use many ideas to create "benefits," but i can assure you that metal which is heated expands. drilled heated metal expands unevenly because of pockets of cooler metal.. this promotes warping and cracking of the rotor, as the cooler metal can't expand at the same rate.
race cars are also not daily drivers. they are driven for like 1 weekend a month, maybe.
save your money.
Mils Garage Mils Garage the rotors i am referring to are Baer rotors, which use cast steel instead of iron, the specific heat capacity is quite a bit higher, so it will most likely never expand enough to overcome the structure of steel even in racing applications, especially DD wear and tear, i would agree cheap iron would expand and contract causeing stressed areas on the iron leading to failure, but they are made of steel for a reason. R&D teams get paid the big bucks for finding the perfect material for the task.
Mils Garage i just thought what you said was funny, it’s like what you’d hear on a Honda forum. i just got my bachelors degree in material science, so it just didn’t sit well with me. I’m sure if i bought eBay rotors they’d blow up but i like to go for quality parts engineered for specific purposes with specialized materials. No corners being cut on my car.
R&D ftw. well.. that sounds like a very educated piece of information you just provided, as well as a great product. i personally don't have the money for it, but if anyone is looking for a set of drilled rotors, that's probably a good way to go. :)
Mils Garage yeah real deal race car shit. The more you know lol. Great video btw definitely helped me help my buddy do his brakes, and pick up some MM wrenches i didn’t have, it’s all American in my garage 😂
Thank you very much !!!!!!! Very helpful
you're very welcome! thank you for your support!
hate to bother you on the g 35 cooling issue
The hose running from the overflow tank to the radiator is missing one of the clamps. Would that be enough to keep it from going back into the radiator?
well yes. that could do it lol 😂
Having a lot of trouble trying to take off the 22mm
Sorry for the delay! Spray with WD-40, Aerokriol, P.B. Blaster, or equivalent. Take a break. Let soak in; then try again
Mils Garage it worked . I went and tackle the fronts rotors this morning . Thanks 😎
Epic. Awesome work Ozz! 🤟😎👍
Great job guys... 👍
Thank you for your support sir 👍👍👍
What size dice do I need to remove caliper assembly bolts
i definitely cover this 👍
Do you have a link to these rotors?
👉 Rockauto.com 👍
Do you have the link to the rotors you got ?
Rockauto.com is constantly changing their inventory, but they should still have Centric parts 👍
What is the screw like thing for that patrudes frim frint calibers? Can i get rid of it or is it needed?
Weight reduction 🤣🤣🤣
Can i use my OEM coupe caliphers ? Or do i need to fork over the $ for stoptech ?
Do the pistons still work? How are the seals? i use OEM spec rotors and calipers from RockAuto.com , and always do core returns.. i think Stoptech is an option on there, but you might want to check them out if you feel you'd like more options
I just don’t want to spend the extra money on stoptech caliphers if my oem will work with stoptech pads+lines
Sorry, i'm not familiar with Stoptech.
Mike Honcho I had stop tech slotted rotors and pads on my 06 g35 coupe non Brembo kit and yes you can use them
I have a 2007 G35 coupe Sport will regular base 07 brake rotors and pads work ?? ... or will they have to say sport
the regular rotors and pads should work for you, but i do see they offer some which say "sport" in the descriptions on www.rockauto.com for like $1 more per pad type of thing.. the ones that say sport may have slightly better specs [though i'm pretty sure the base ones are the same as the sport]
excellent vid. Im beginning to hear metal from my brakes, so its time. what brand rotor did you use and how much was it? by the way, have you had any front suspension squeaking issues when you go over bumps? Ball joints maybe? Im also in the process of replacing the valve cover gaskets. i have a 2003 with 112k miles on it.
@2:26
Thank you sir! Awesome work. Suspension squeaking? Sure. Depends on the setup and would need a thorough inspection. We can fix it at our shop if you're in the Delaware area
@@milsgarage Actually I live in Kobe, Japan (which is why i cant bring myself to calling that car an infinity g35. its a skyline gt 350) but in california at the moment for another year and 4 months.
@@milsgarage Domo, arigatou gozaimashita.
ii ne~.. Boku mo mae ni Kobe ni sunde imashita. Himeji Jo ha mecha kirei deshou? 😂 Mo sugu ni, tabun MG no shoppu ikenai ne? （笑）. i need to go to Cali some time.. i made it out to Vegas and Colorado, but have only had LA connecting flights. Skyline deshou?? See, you know! lol i tell people.. Not everyone listens lol
Hey man I love your videos! I shop on rockauto a lot as well. I want to do a full rotor and pad job. I think I see the centric kit you bought. I see a power stop kit for about 40 dollars less. Would you still stick with the Centric? I want to do this in the next two months
Hey Eduardo, thank you for your support! Yep, i stick with Centric. i don't have any experience with Power Stop, but i do a lot of research into the types of negative reviews for products. some of the reviews for the other brakes had people complaining about squeals. i've never had any issues with Centric, and the $40 is for peace of mind. if you're doing the job yourself, go with better parts :) it'll still be cheaper
Mils Garage sold! Thank you sir!
Any time Eduardo! 💯 🤟😎👍
Mils Garage hey man. One more quick question. Is the kit you bought, he one there about 260 all together? I read centric bought stop tech so I’m much more comfortable now lol!
i just went to RockAuto to check.. the parts are constantly being updated on the site, so it looks nothing like how it did when i last did my brakes. looks like Power Stop makes all their top end options now? a merger? ok, well.. yep, you'll probably be alright :)
Which rotors can i put in my car g35 2004 regular rotors or sport package please I need help
You'll see at RockAuto.com that they either list that the rotors are Brembo compatible, or don't say Brembo. From that info, i gather that the dimensions are different between the two. Looks like Brembo uses 12.76" Vs OEM 11.654". You're going to have to look at your brakes to know whether you have Brembo brake calipers or not, and then you can make your selection from there
I'm going to check the page because I already need to change the brakes and rotors 👌👌
any thread locker on any bolts?
No
hey guys quick question for the caliper pin what torque spec would you recommend?
Hand torque normally comes to around 21ft lb, but don’t use a torque bar or impact gun. The pins are not meant to rotate during use, and they should fit snug w/o much torque
@@milsgarage thank you
i would of never known this information. and I have a g35
the more u know. du du du duuuu lol
My hole rotor is painted black should I wipe down with brake cleaner or naw
They’re putting interesting coatings on these days.. i’d spray them, but i’d believe it if they had new rust-resistant finishes that don’t require the preservative stuff. The brake clean shouldn’t hurt the finish, but you could always test a small spot to see how it reacts 👍
Hey random question. Do you have any videos regarding key fobs? I bought the car from a buddy of mine over a year ago. He gave the Infiniti fob that it came with but it was broken. My G has a keyless start. I just crank the ignition when the fob is in there.(if it worked). Right now, I’m using the key that comes in the fob
we don't have that video atm.. so much going on.. are you sure it's broken? did you change the battery?
Yeah. Still didn’t work though. Then I took it to my local mechanic and they ran over it lol. I’ve seen that people buy the fob from amazon and program it to their car. Insert and take out the key like 10 times and a few other steps. I tried it but couldn’t get it to program with my car. I’m wondering if it’s due to mine being keyless start. The videos I’ve seen of people programming, theirs takes a regular key to start the car.
your local mechanic should stop doing drugs. i feel like you should be able to program it regardless of being keyless start or not.. i don't know the programming sequence off the top of my head.. i just Googled "how to program keyless fob g35" and that's the sequence i would try
is it a 2008?
2008 Infiniti G35 Keyless Entry Remote Fob Smart Key Programming Instructions:
There is no manual on board procedure to program a keyless remote to this vehicle. This vehicle requires special equipment be connected to the vehicle to program the remote.
Mils Garage lol I do trust them but they’ve ran over one of my fobs and lost my other. Only reason I didn’t flip out is since neither worked
So I technically don’t have to remove the entire caliper assembly from the rotor if all I’m doing is swapping my brake pads correct? Or is that necessary to remove the old brake pads? Gotta replace mine soon since they’re pretty worn but my rotors and calipers aren’t even a year old yet so they’re still good.
that's correct sir. 😎👍👍 just pull the pin and swing the caliper over, re-grease the pins and you'll be golden.
Mils Garage Quick reply, awesome stuff man, thank you. Also, the caliper pins should be located in similar locations for both the front and rear correct? And the process is the same for the rear also?
that's also correct sir. 😎👍👍👍👍 any time buddy
Why didn't you just use a impact wrench to break loose the caliper bolts?
for two solid reasons:
1. i showed people who are trying to save money how to save money, including work-arounds for not having expensive tools such as impact guns and compressors.
2. for production reasons.
.. just thinking about it.. i don't want people to be using impact guns around brake components anyway.
I see.. well I have a impact wrench and I don't see the problem with just breaking it free and taking it off by hand or with a ratchet. The reason why I'm saying this for using the impact wrench is cause breaking it loose with a ratchet you're more prone to hitting your arm, etc in the fender wells and that shit hurts. Lol.
Only to break them loose, not tightening, cause I have a torque wrench for that.
LOL sure. you can use an impact gun to break them loose.. i just hope you don't break a bolt, cause that would suck. many of our viewers are just learning about cars and don't have a lot of experience or funds.. i wouldn't want them to accidentally hit the caliper pin bolts with an impact gun, so it makes sense not to recommend them using an impact gun on brake jobs.
i'm glad you know not to torque bolts with impact guns 😎👍
Hello could you tell me what's the torque specs for the rear banjo bolts please I tightened mine but when I checked it again today (a few days later) both sides are leaking (cant seem to find it online) please help thanks
This is for a nissan 2005 350z
i've read 35ft lb.. BUT i don't think anyone should ever torque a banjo bolt. i recommend double washer, and slight crank hand torque. only use copper washers.
are you sure you have the proper double washer setup?
Yes it's one on each end and both sides are leaking (both rear) I painted them before I reinstalled the calipers ico if the paint has to do with anything? I covered the tip when I painted them I'll have to take them off and check again :(
a dab coat of paint could definitely give a less than perfect seal.. sounds like it's getting messy, but you might want to disassemble it, go over the edge with a 1000 grit sandpaper to get rid of any debris, and see if that makes the seal
Is it the same process for newer ones? As in 2008+?
this is the same process for all cars 😎👍
Is there a difference in rotor size between the 03 and 07?
i believe there may be a difference if you have Brembo vs standard Nissan brakes, but i'm not certain. Otherwise, if it's Nissan OEM brakes, it should have the same size rotor for all years
Please update this with the proper info on what grease to use on the pins. You want to use "silicone" lubricant, not "synthetic"...unless you want a seized up caliper from swollen bushings on the slide pins.
Actually i want Synthetic. i thought you'd be telling me the correct way to grease behind the brackets, an not on the ears, but... Yeah, i really meant only use the Synthetic.
@@milsgarage Synthetic isn't EPDM/rubber safe and will cause swelling. The manual calls for "silicone based grease", not synthetic for that very reason. When repairing seized caliper pins, I've dealt with everything from Permatex synthetic green or purple, to CRC synthetic brake lube, which CRC states is for metal to metal only and isn't rubber safe and recommends CRC Silaramic for use with rubber components. My recommendation is 3M silicone brake paste or Napa Syl-glide, both of which has never caused swelling in my 14 years experience. You can use whatever you want, I'm just trying to save your viewers an expensive repair.
i respect that you're looking out for our viewers. i'm researching more on the subject. i've never had a problem with my caliper slides while using synthetic brake grease on them.. Except the first time i ever did my brakes was an epic fail, as i used ball bearing grease. Luckily i only did it to one caliper lol
I know this is an old video.....I thought the spring tab on the upper went INTO the pad hoop.....it looks like you just pressed it over...not one video on YT shows this little detail :(
i might do an updated video on brakes, as i’ve become much more knowledgeable in the last 6 years 👍
Sorry but slotted rotors not only look badass on cars and such and make a massive difference in look and style and performance but are badass I have them on all my vehicles never ever had a problem and they look sic
You put your money into pretty rotors; i put my money into a titanium exhaust.
Both building cars, but i’ll take the titanium
Dope video
Thank you for your support 🤟😎👍
Cross drilled rotors DO NOT CAUSE CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. They are fine on daily driven vehicles because daily driven vehicles WILL NEVER see brake temperatures associated with track cars. When using cross drilled rotors on a vehicle that sees regular track events. The heat can build up in the rotors and cause stress cracks. Thus, it is better to use slotted rotors for track use. Manufacturers like Ferrari, Lamborghini and many others have been using cross drilled rotors on DAILY DRIVEN CARS for years as have I. With proper use, you WON'T HAVE ANY PROBLEMS OUT OF CROSS DRILLED ROTORS EVER. Also, cross drilled rotors cool down faster during normal operation and they weigh a little less do to the cross drilled holes in the rotor.
So you’re saying i’m right under certain conditions? Then i’m glad i said it exactly like i did. :)
how much for rotors & brake pads ? estimate ? i think my g35 has this problem thanks btw 🤙🏽
they run around $160. i buy mine from [ www.RockAuto.com ]. they're usually the lowest priced when it comes to OEM replica parts
U have the link to the rotor
Nah, but it's from RockAuto.com
Good job. At the start, I would pop the hood and open the brake fluid reservoir and wrap a rag around it. Sometimes when you push the caliper back in, it will overflow and you don't want that to happen, or you can suck a little bit of fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe so it doesn't overflow and top it off when you are done.
cool, yeah that will work well. it will be easier to press the pistons back into position like that, but could get messy. there shouldn't be an issue either way