Just remember that while that is true, it doesn't warm up and get all parts right. A short moment to get oil around the engine is fine (which is only about the time it takes to put on your helmet and gloves), then ride gently until the engine reaches operating temperature. That's generally enough time for grease and oil in all other moving parts (ones that may not get heat idling, but actually moving to get to a good running temp before giving the bike a bit more go.
I used to work in aviation, and i remember watching a guy fly away from the overhaul shop that finished a major on his Beechcraft bonanza ( io-540). The shop owner who was standing next to me commented that there went an engine that would be back under warranty. When i asked why, his response was that the owner/pilot hadn't used full power on takeoff, probably thinking that he was babying the fresh engine. He then went on to explain the very same things about the relationship between cylinders, pistons, rings, thermal hardening and the break-in period that Ryan did, but without the benefit of video aids. Well done Ryan
Best representation of how to properly break in a new/rebuilt engine (mainly a stock or street engine) and why to do it that way. Of course race engines or blue-print builds are a little different. Tighter tolerances, types of rings, types of bearings, and even types of plated cylinder walls, cylinder hone,can change the break in procedure as well, but that's a whole different topic.
"...and so that anything that's going to break, will break under warranty." Now that advice is refreshing to hear coming from a company, that's why I respect and trust FortNine. You would never hear advice like that from most of the others in the industry, 👍 to Ryan (and the FortNine team) for keepin' it real.
Right on, It's a company for the people rather than the industry, in a world where it's so lucrative and tempting to betray your own and be swayed their way
Its unfortunate that the experience isn't universally shared. Ryan makes fantastic content. Fortnine customer service however, encourages people to go to their local brick and mortar to try on equipment and clothing first when you are going to buy something Fortnine has on sale. They don't do exchanges so if you want it for a price, you either buy multiple sizes and return everything or you have to try it on.
@@Aenslaei so nice to be living in the EU. ANYTHING you fucking buy apart from food can be returned to the store within two weeks, no questiones asked. EU policy against scumbag companies
@@Darkest_Soul_187 Can't speak for the whole EU, but in Germany the legal regulations for returning goods are part of the Fernabsatzgesetz (mail order law?), so they apply only for stuff you buy online or by mail order. There is no law about returning goods in real (brick & mortar) stores so any "right" of returning goods in these stores is a voluntary service of the shop.
Interestingly enough my brand new Yamaha Bolt owner’s manual described almost the very same break-in… varying RPM, don’t lug the engine and don’t go for sustained high rpm rides (highway). FortNine’s videos are always spot on. I would think the manufacturers know how to break in the bike so the customer gets a longer, lower maintenance life from their product.
I was a bit concerned about the break in period, but I've actually been doing all of this with my new bike by accident. I've only put a little over 200 miles on it so far and I've been cruising between 35 and 50, taking off in the straights and hitting a few twisties before either stopping to grab a soda or something to eat for 10-15 minutes.
"Any experienced rider is inexperienced on a new bike", a true statement. I crashed my new bought Hayabusa in the first 1000km even though I ride motorcycles since 2007. I still own it: a unlimited 1999 model. It was a small crash but still... it was avoidable as a vast majority of crashes are. Of well! Take care out there!
FINALLY I hear something that makes SENSE, thanks for this men, Ive broke in 3 bikes so far and I was never sure if I had to take it gently or savagely on the engine. This is the most sober advice, and I know it'll help a lot.
I just figured break it in the range that I ride. Able to do traffic in city and a few twisty backroads home. All the range of speed is involved in my commute. With one perfect pull off road by a car rental place with markings on the ground for u turns practice. And year round riding with extreme heat vs cold. Had it 2 weeks and up to 289 miles already from 8 only when I bought. One oil change done, spark plug & fuel/air hoses changed from factory, getting ready for next round. It sat for a few before I got it, they never rode it ,ever..😢 so being super vigilant will help I hope. These videos are all very helpful and entertaining without being lame IMHO. I have learned a lot. Thank you, years later, it's still helping people.
Excellent video. I broke in my bike this summer and the service mgr told me to ride my new bike like I normally would. That is, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, 3/4 throttle, and full throttle in every gear with multiple stops. I varied between road and highway so I had to make stops at traffic lights. I made stops to tap up on gasoline and for dinner. The main thing is not to ride at a constant speed in one gear.
Finally. A nice balanced and factual version of everyone else's passionate fantasies about how two pieces of metal wear together. I've broken in a handful of new bikes the same way. Although my method involved a bit more vigor, with heat cycles and cool downs of course. Oil changes flush out the fines and away we go. Never ever had a single issue with any of them. All ran exceptionally well. One note: the plating manufacturers are coating cylinder walls with these days are EXTREMELY HARD and DURABLE, and don't take to mating with steel rings real thoroughly unless sufficient force is put in the cylinder. The longer the user pokes along, the more apt they are to glaze (heat treat via. mechanical friction) microscopic ridges and peaks in the rings which will ensure they never shear and mate properly.
Great advice! Just got myself a brand new Honda nc750x, I've had bikes for 10 years and this is my first new one, thanks for the advice on breaking the new beast in! You always make quality watchable and relatable videos! Cheers from Ireland, Claire 👌😊
Everybody including the mechanics keep advising me to keep it under 4000rpm for 2 whole months .You are the only one who said otherwise and I trust you .Plus your visuals are amazing
Depends whether or not you trust the engineers that developed the engine, and the mechanics who fix the engine. Or some guy on youtube. I enjoy Ryan's videos, but his method isn't exactly scientific.
I always get mad when I notice how low your views are when compared to other channels who provide shitty content... The amount of work put into each video looks huge. Keep it up, you will get a fair recognition some day!
Currently, this video has 1.8 million views and the channel 1.98 million subscribers. Kinda cool 6 years ago when you made this comment to where the channel is now. -June 2024-
Brave guy taking on such a controversial topic. I totally agree and have followed that same strategy with cars for years- never had any excessive oil use until over 100k miles. Good advice and easy to understand. I respect your opinions because you have much more experience than me, and seem to be thoughtful about every topic I’ve watched. Thanks!!
I simply love this channel. It always covers up all posibilities and thoughts without being afraid to trigger someone.Also time flys by while watching your videos, cause they are just so entertaining. Huge respect guys, excellent quality, amazing presentation and valid opinions. Love from east Europe. P.S. Sorry for any mistakes, my english are not the best.
Very good points. To each his own for sure. Reason I love used is I switch out a lot of parts anyway to customize the vehicle and I enjoy working and learning on them.
Asad Siraj yea if you are going to do that , then I do understand you. I think if a motorcycle is not good enough stock, then its not worth buying. But thats just me. At least we both love working on our motorcycles!
Daniel B i can see that with off road bikes but I'm looking for a more street oriented bike as my next bike. Oh my profile pic? Man I need to update that. I was planning on getting that as my first bike but I ended up getting a 01 ninja 500r!
Stephen Hartley Brundrett hear you man. Also there are some bikes that are very special like the 05 06 gsxr 1000. I bought my dream project bike being the 05 R1 when they had great horsepower for a fraction of what its worth.
Rewatching this now it s amazing to see that even 6 years ago the quality of this channel, on photography and contents was hugely high. 6 years..damm time goes fast. Thank u Ryan!
Ive been breaking in my bike this way without even knowing this was the correct way to break in the engine. See its my first bike and its not a slow one so im slowly learning and getting used to the bike. I take it out on the town streets and go from light to light then climb up on the highway for a few miles while dropping the hammer as i enter the hwy. Then i exit the hwy and come back towards town and do some sprints on the lonely service road with no traffic. After 30 min or so i come home with a big smile on my face and call it the day.
Good job. As taught 60 years ago and currently. Applies to all engines . Don't forget to change oil early during break in . Break in all moving parts , U2 .
I love that comment: "Every experienced rider is inexperienced on a new bike". I've been riding for 30 years and just picked up a brand new Guzzi V7 Centenario yesterday - totally different from my previous long-term BMW R1150-R, I felt like I was a learner.
Still can't believe how high quality these videos are, glad I found your channel and am incredibly surprised at how small your subscriber base is. Cheers for all the videos!
I'm glad you went into this I've sold motorcycles and worked on them for 50 years and I never could argue with too many people that say you don't need to do anything to break in an engine which is the stupidest thing I've ever heard of but anyway thank you..
I got a good kick out of the "Evils of Capitalism" and other contentious topics section. I dig this a bit more than the full-on skits becuase it's funny while still being an informative format. But, literally everyone else seems to dig the skits and I won't lie and say that they aren't imaginative and well done. 'Cause they are, especially the Bill Nye themed invisible riding one. Also, WOW, I did not know anything about the piston/piston wall thing, and the sandpaper analogy is great like Lawrence said. That's incredibly informative, I'll have to keep that in mind.
This is by far the best video and best information I have heard on this topic. It seems there are many people at both extreme ends of the spectrum on how you should break-in a motorcycle, but this video does a great job of splitting the difference. It explains a few things that I don't hear touched on very much and does a great job turning that into a logical and compelling argument for proper break-in (as well as making good, well informed points on what constitutes improper break-in!)
been lurking your page for a month. the process we use to break in RC engines is roughly the same. avoid low pressure, avoid overrev, dont baby, but dont stress. since all engines are basically identical your logic is sound. got a new sub.
It's not a time lapse. He just jumped 4 times with different outfits, shot with a high fps, try to recreate the previous jumps using the same path and speed, right cutting at the right time, and then stitched the videos to create an almost flawless sequence. Edit: Had to edit my grammar in case another grammar Nazi comes. My grammar was f'd up because I wrote it while drunk during liquor ban and English is my 2nd language.
I’ve watched this before. Watching it again on this beautiful Sunday as I’m about to get my new bike out! Bought it this winter and it’s waiting for me.
I find myself watching some of your videos multiple times, that's how good and informative they are. I'm watching this one for the third as I'm buying another new bike next month. here i am watching it again with my new bike
This technique for breaking in a new engine matches EXACTLY what Kawasaki was describing in their shop and owner's manual for 90s vintage KDX200. The only difference was Kawasaki also added the idea of the first ride being only 10-15 long before stopping and letting the engine cool down. Next ride adds 10 minutes before cool down. Repeat until you log an hours long ride at which point Kawi said the engine was broken in. As each ride got longer you took the revs higher.
New to motorcycling and motorcycling interest. And your videos Ryan, are staggeringly awesome. Crisp, informative, not lengthy, and word efficient. Simply phenomenal.
From an automotive engineer and test driver perspective, you said 4 wrong things according to my experience testing vehicles. First: dont EVER let your engine idle for more than 2min, let alone 5 and let alone a brand new engine. An idling engine does not create oil pressure, and when an engine is running on low oil pressures, it creates heat spots. Now imagine the "heat spot" a brand new engine will create at the tight rings idling for 5 minutes in a cold day. Second: buying in november. Preferably you never want to break in an engine in cold moisty weather, like the one in the video. The (slight) condensation spots that is created within the parts can cause either overheating and/or overcooling and crack materials with different heat expansion rates. Third. Dont do figure 8s to wear in tires. Tires wear-in with temperature, pressure and inertia. One should pump the up the pressure a little more than you would usually ride with and just go out on a sunny day and ride some speeds, hard breaking and corners. Dont worry tires now a days arent "waxed" anymore, you wont crash on a sunny dry weather. And the tire needs that higher speed inertia to sit the wires properly in place. Fourth. What you do NOT want to do when breaking in a new engine is the constant "on and off/hot and cold" cycles like you mentioned. A new engine still needs to "sit and fit" all its components, and that wont happen properly if you constantly let the engine components heat and cool all the time, because different materials and parts sizes/shapes have different heat expansion rates, and if you keep messing around with those expansion rates by heating and cooling it all the time, you might create scratches or even cracks. Theoretically the best way to break in a motorized vehicle is to turn it on and run it with smooth throttle (never full throttle) across all rpms and gears for a veeeeeery long time. Hours. Hundreds of km/miles. And after the first oil change you really shouldnt bother anymore....oh, and preferably you should break in an engine using the best possible quality gasoline you can find, that helps the spark plug, valves, rings, injectors and exhaust/cat to break in properly as well..
...cold days also impact the mentioned heat expansion rates. A very cold engine metal is a lot more "compacted/contracted" in a cold day than a hot day, and expanding that material all the way up to working temperatures might create cracks or scratches. About the low oil pressure thing on point number one: to understand more the theorie behind oil pressures, please watch a "cold day idling" video from a channel called Engineering Explained. That dude explains very simply why idling for 5min is a bad idea. Also, believe it or not, some lab testing we performed at the university showed that, even from dead cold, a piston hardly ever takes more than 20-40seconds to be at working temps. (Gasoline high comp engine; this result does not apply for turbo or diesel engines).
I would still argue that there's more to it than just fuel wash and heat spots in the cylinder. There's also the simple fact that until the engine is warm, nothing fits right. There'll be play, and play is bad. Letting it idle longer allows the heat to permeate the block and things can expand to a more reasonable fit. Bear in mind I'm no expert, but that's how I see it. I'll continue to idle my car for 10 minutes before leaving for work for now.
I like your "give it a few minutes and see if there is something wrong" approach. Some years ago I worked for an engineer who scoffed at my remark about breaking engines in. He said that the materials alloys and manufacturing techniques ( CNC machines that can work to 80 Millionth's of an inch) Obviate the whole break-in thing. Which back in the bad old days of manual machining was required because manual machining imposes all manner of irregularities on the metal surfaces and simply can not compete with CNC. So the surfaces of things like the cylinders, rings gears, bearings etc., are already damn near perfect. And of course metals technology is vastly superior today too. That said you certainly won't harm anything by taking it easy for a few thousand miles.
Always let the science do the talking! I'm all for listening to experienced rider's opinions but you always have the best scientific facts! Thanks FortNine. I get my first bike in 6 days and couldn't be more excited.
This week I am in the same situation; I got a new Ducati 1260S, and I'm totally agree with you: " experience bikers in a new bike, get inexperienced ". Good videos
Manual doesn’t say to ride gently. It says to avoid full throttle acceleration and hard engine breaking. So just a normal ride for most. The video is a good summary of advice from forum “experts”. The procedure demonstrated won’t hurt, but it looks and sounds like a spell to me.
For my z1000sx it said to go under 5 rpm for the first 500 kms and under 7 for 1500 kms. On cb500f it was something like under 5 rpm for 1000 kms. Same thing with the cars.
Yep. For my Scrambler, I had to stay below 6k rpm for 600 miles, and then below 7k till 1500 miles. It also said to vary the road type to hills and valleys like Fort suggests.
@@nathanielyoungman4454 it's the best thing that ever happened to me. I've put 20,300 km on it so far and my favourite thing in the world to do is ride my bike. I even started a gang called the delightful strangers 😂, there's five of us so far
Perfect timing! Picking up my new BMW this week (but bought it last October). Those are great tips. Love your videos - my favourites out there for real reviews with integrity.
The factory has usually test ran your new bike on their dyno. I think they may bring it up to redline without a lot of RPM varying. It does get a very long cool down cycle.
Love and agree with the first advice... buy in Nov. I'm picking up my brand new Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 (2024) tomorrow Nov. 4. I called around to dealerships within a rideable range to get the best price. $5500 out the door... taxs title & tax included. No added fees. That's about $2300 below what most were wanting earlier in the year.
You said vary rpm well above lugging (low) and well below redline (high) and that seems good. Also I would add vary load from half throttle to full throttle for short bursts to apply ring pressure while allowing cool down between bursts. Look up "motoman engine break in" to see why (if you have not already).
Did a medium break in to my brand new 2019 CB1000-R. After 600 miles i did an oil change with Castrol Actevo 10w30 & Honda OEM filter. Flushed the Coolant and replaced it with Engine ice. After the odo jacked up 10,000 miles i am Using Motul 7100 4T 10W40 with K&N 204 filters. I fill up with Octane 87 Non ethanol Fuel & always add an ounce of StarTron fuel treatment. The scope of the story is: What you feed your baby will make it Healthy down the Road. When you have a baby and feed him/her quality organic raw foods he/she will live healthy, disease free and graceful 😇
Just got my first new serious bike in november - gotta say it's a very pleasant feeling, when you know that nobody sat on this thing, nobody raped the engine, and, needless to say - it's worth to buy a new bike just to peal off that protective film off of the brand new dash.
Firstly, let me come clean. I was in mind to fulfill a dream I have. That is, to one day go on a bike trip with my brother. Destination to be decided (Germany most likely). Problem is... I don’t have a licence yet. But here’s the kicker.. After watching quite a few FortNine videos.. I’ve had my desire to just simply go on a bike tour, turn into a desire to commute on a bike. I’m now more driven to get a licence (and bike), more than ever. FortNine made me excited to learn. They cover things like techniques to watch out for, to even waterproof jackets. What I appreciate is the type of content that FortNine covers. It’s not just “ooh let’s have a look at this bike, from manufacturer X”. I guess I’m just trying to thank you for the good work. One day (soon), I may enjoy the outdoors, on a motorbike as you quite obviously do. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Rode my CRF300L Rally from the dealership with 0 miles on it, 130 miles back home. Pulled over once to refuel. Varied speeds between 70-80mph on the interstate all the way back. Rode it as I normally would after that. No smoke or sparkles in the oil at 450 miles when I changed it. Hit 1,000 miles in less than three weeks commuting. Get between 60-70mpg depending on how I drive it. Most of the break in period is in the first 40 mile of riding.
Nice logical and easy to follow explanation. I also use this method of varying the revs without loading the engine but see so many riders on forums fail to grasp this concept. I’ll use this video to explain my point of view. 👍
Hey Ryan! Absolutely love your videos and you commentary! Just wanted to know whether these rules apply to all kinds of bikes across various platforms and manufacturers? Or just top of the line German engineering... And I've also heard erratic hard riding has an impact on the fuel efficiency.. your thoughts?
You're not going to overheat the rings and warp them. The only heat-related issue that rings can run into is if the gap is too narrow. No amount of break-in will save you then, 'cause the rings will expand, the gap will close, the rings will continue to expand and then you get a seized ring. Hard break-in is what every engine builder I've worked with recommends. And I've never torn an engine down that had damage from hot spots in the cylinder absent some condition that caused gross overheating or complete loss of oil pressure. And I've torn down a shitload of engines. Metal shavings shouldn't be an issue past the first hour (max time it should take to break an engine in), if that. A competently-assembled engine will be extremely clean and produce next to nothing in the way of shavings. If an engine has an oil filter, it should be more than sufficient to catch all the alleged "break-in crud" that will happen.
Great video! I appreciate the explanation. How many km does your method of varying the power and cooling take to do the break-in? I've seen 1000-1600km for break-in periods on other bikes but your video seems to suggest your method would only take maybe a few hundred km.
Wow, that idling part is what my dad used to do with out bike back in 90’s. I kinda did is because of that without actually knowing what it does, since I live in a cold weather it’s very helpful.
The only bike I ever bought brand new was a 2006 KLR650. I just rode it...not too fast, not too slow, not too moderate. Variety is the spice of life, and engine break in it seems.
Hey, mechanic here. I beat the piss out of it to break in a new engine. Works great every time. The being gentle for however many miles is a myth at this point.
You are right. I have been in the auto industry for more than 30 years involved in Product Engineering of gears and axles. Bearings and gears don´t like high speed or load when new. We do break-in cycles on dynamometers always before testing or you WILL get premature failures with bearings galling and gears scuffing or pitting. Break-in should be low to medium load cycles, up and down for first few hours.... NEVER lug it or rev it to redline when new if you want a long lasting gear-train. Then again, you don´t need to die of boredom when breaking it a motorcycle. Figure half throttle and short shifting for first few hundred miles...
That’s pretty much my method- don’t lug, don’t bounce redline, vary rpm, and throttle. I also prefer to do the first oil change quite early. If re torque of head bolts is recommended, do it.
That's the way I've been doing "break in" on motorcycles for 40 years and I've had many many motorcycles. Shift it, down shift it for 15-20 min without reaching the red zone then, take a break to let the engine cool down. After that, repeat the same exercise until you reach 500-700 km, change the oil & filter and you're ready. I've done it once during a track day (15 min session/30 min break) with a lot of shifting & down shifting without getting close to the red zone then, I did two more rides on the street to complete the "break in" period.
I'm so dumb. I literally sat here waiting for him to bring up "how to brake in your new motorcycle" lol I didn't realize the title said "BREAK" not "BRAKE" 🤭
"It moves oil to the oily partsof the engine." That's the kind of sage advice I subscribe for.
Was that advice, or an observation?
@@samshambles391 it's part of the get the engine running advice, that being to run the engine for a bit to get oil to all the oily bits
With F9, it's all about the attention to detail that makes this the best motorcycle channel going...Atticus Finch's court file...outstanding 🙌
Just remember that while that is true, it doesn't warm up and get all parts right. A short moment to get oil around the engine is fine (which is only about the time it takes to put on your helmet and gloves), then ride gently until the engine reaches operating temperature. That's generally enough time for grease and oil in all other moving parts (ones that may not get heat idling, but actually moving to get to a good running temp before giving the bike a bit more go.
I used to work in aviation, and i remember watching a guy fly away from the overhaul shop that finished a major on his Beechcraft bonanza ( io-540). The shop owner who was standing next to me commented that there went an engine that would be back under warranty. When i asked why, his response was that the owner/pilot hadn't used full power on takeoff, probably thinking that he was babying the fresh engine. He then went on to explain the very same things about the relationship between cylinders, pistons, rings, thermal hardening and the break-in period that Ryan did, but without the benefit of video aids. Well done Ryan
finished a major what
@@debaronAZK major work, you numbnut...
@@debaronAZK a major overhaul
@@ok0_0 duhh
@ImTheCVL computer viruses. 😅
Your story telling , cinematography and editing is just so eagering to just keep watching your videos
Eagering is not a word. Earnest would be more appropriate.
I feel like it's a little too much.
‘Engaging’ would be the appropriate choice.
He is not doing it alone. It is a whole production team.
BMW s1000rr
The sand paper metaphor was very artistic. You don't get that kind of creativity from moto-vlogers.
Best representation of how to properly break in a new/rebuilt engine (mainly a stock or street engine) and why to do it that way. Of course race engines or blue-print builds are a little different. Tighter tolerances, types of rings, types of bearings, and even types of plated cylinder walls, cylinder hone,can change the break in procedure as well, but that's a whole different topic.
Right now in 2020 There are to many cinematic moto vloggers.
@@ajinkyathorat7502 Really? can count them on one hand.
@@ajinkyathorat7502 Fortnine. Schaaf. ...???? Who else? And i think they're both brilliant.
Ryan is in a class of his own.
"...and so that anything that's going to break, will break under warranty."
Now that advice is refreshing to hear coming from a company, that's why I respect and trust FortNine. You would never hear advice like that from most of the others in the industry, 👍 to Ryan (and the FortNine team) for keepin' it real.
Right on, It's a company for the people rather than the industry, in a world where it's so lucrative and tempting to betray your own and be swayed their way
Its unfortunate that the experience isn't universally shared. Ryan makes fantastic content. Fortnine customer service however, encourages people to go to their local brick and mortar to try on equipment and clothing first when you are going to buy something Fortnine has on sale. They don't do exchanges so if you want it for a price, you either buy multiple sizes and return everything or you have to try it on.
Aenslaei They do exchange for about $7. Small price to pay. FWIW though, I've always bought helmets at local shops at better prices than Fortnine.
@@Aenslaei so nice to be living in the EU. ANYTHING you fucking buy apart from food can be returned to the store within two weeks, no questiones asked. EU policy against scumbag companies
@@Darkest_Soul_187 Can't speak for the whole EU, but in Germany the legal regulations for returning goods are part of the Fernabsatzgesetz (mail order law?), so they apply only for stuff you buy online or by mail order. There is no law about returning goods in real (brick & mortar) stores so any "right" of returning goods in these stores is a voluntary service of the shop.
Interestingly enough my brand new Yamaha Bolt owner’s manual described almost the very same break-in… varying RPM, don’t lug the engine and don’t go for sustained high rpm rides (highway). FortNine’s videos are always spot on. I would think the manufacturers know how to break in the bike so the customer gets a longer, lower maintenance life from their product.
Finally, someone talking sense on the subject! This is how I've been telling folks to break in a bike for ages and almost always get looks of disdain.
I was a bit concerned about the break in period, but I've actually been doing all of this with my new bike by accident. I've only put a little over 200 miles on it so far and I've been cruising between 35 and 50, taking off in the straights and hitting a few twisties before either stopping to grab a soda or something to eat for 10-15 minutes.
"Any experienced rider is inexperienced on a new bike", a true statement. I crashed my new bought Hayabusa in the first 1000km even though I ride motorcycles since 2007. I still own it: a unlimited 1999 model. It was a small crash but still... it was avoidable as a vast majority of crashes are. Of well! Take care out there!
FINALLY I hear something that makes SENSE, thanks for this men, Ive broke in 3 bikes so far and I was never sure if I had to take it gently or savagely on the engine. This is the most sober advice, and I know it'll help a lot.
I just figured break it in the range that I ride. Able to do traffic in city and a few twisty backroads home. All the range of speed is involved in my commute. With one perfect pull off road by a car rental place with markings on the ground for u turns practice. And year round riding with extreme heat vs cold. Had it 2 weeks and up to 289 miles already from 8 only when I bought. One oil change done, spark plug & fuel/air hoses changed from factory, getting ready for next round. It sat for a few before I got it, they never rode it ,ever..😢 so being super vigilant will help I hope. These videos are all very helpful and entertaining without being lame IMHO. I have learned a lot. Thank you, years later, it's still helping people.
Just discovered this channel last week and is easily already one of my favorite channels.
Excellent video. I broke in my bike this summer and the service mgr told me to ride my new bike like I normally would. That is, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, 3/4 throttle, and full throttle in every gear with multiple stops. I varied between road and highway so I had to make stops at traffic lights. I made stops to tap up on gasoline and for dinner. The main thing is not to ride at a constant speed in one gear.
This is what I did. Works Great!
Finally. A nice balanced and factual version of everyone else's passionate fantasies about how two pieces of metal wear together. I've broken in a handful of new bikes the same way. Although my method involved a bit more vigor, with heat cycles and cool downs of course. Oil changes flush out the fines and away we go. Never ever had a single issue with any of them. All ran exceptionally well.
One note: the plating manufacturers are coating cylinder walls with these days are EXTREMELY HARD and DURABLE, and don't take to mating with steel rings real thoroughly unless sufficient force is put in the cylinder. The longer the user pokes along, the more apt they are to glaze (heat treat via. mechanical friction) microscopic ridges and peaks in the rings which will ensure they never shear and mate properly.
Exactly how I did the engine break in on my last two motorcycles. Finally someone did a balanced video on this :-) thanks Ryan!
Tho for how long do you break in??
@@BusinessRooster id say 600 miles which is usually the first oil change
@@BusinessRooster depends on bike, Im breaking in 2 strokes for like 300km
Great advice! Just got myself a brand new Honda nc750x, I've had bikes for 10 years and this is my first new one, thanks for the advice on breaking the new beast in! You always make quality watchable and relatable videos! Cheers from Ireland, Claire 👌😊
How has it treated you?
I have to hand it to ya man you really make some quality videos. Keep up the great work brother!
500th like 🥳
Is it him making the videos or is he just the figure head for Fortnine?
@@mattsupertramp6506 as far as I know it’s pretty much him and one other bloke.
Look, it's the guy who pimp his girl on yt
@@MrNicklasson87 he has a team but what a personality
Everybody including the mechanics keep advising me to keep it under 4000rpm for 2 whole months .You are the only one who said otherwise and I trust you .Plus your visuals are amazing
Same man. Got a ninja300 a month back and have been limiting myself to 4k. Now I'm confused whose advice to follow
I suggest you follow fortnine's advice even though I'm not sure about riding at high rpm for 10 minutes since mine is a cafe racer
Ninja probably won't have much issues
Depends whether or not you trust the engineers that developed the engine, and the mechanics who fix the engine. Or some guy on youtube. I enjoy Ryan's videos, but his method isn't exactly scientific.
I just bought my fourth bike (2019 ZZR 1400) and I'm glad someone finally talks sense. You get a subscribe!
I always get mad when I notice how low your views are when compared to other channels who provide shitty content... The amount of work put into each video looks huge. Keep it up, you will get a fair recognition some day!
It's bearing fruit
Currently, this video has 1.8 million views and the channel 1.98 million subscribers. Kinda cool 6 years ago when you made this comment to where the channel is now. -June 2024-
Facts!
Brave guy taking on such a controversial topic. I totally agree and have followed that same strategy with cars for years- never had any excessive oil use until over 100k miles. Good advice and easy to understand. I respect your opinions because you have much more experience than me, and seem to be thoughtful about every topic I’ve watched. Thanks!!
100k, as in KILOMETERS I'm hoping :)
These videos age like fine wine
It’s nice to watch these videos after watching cyclecruza videos...
Lets go for a RIIIIIIIDe!
On ma cbr one thousand double ahrgggg...
I had to unsub him. Not sure if it was the click bait titles or that he recommended a smith machine for solo workouts.
Planet Matt LOL the dude’s a trip
BWX If you're 12 and never ridden a bike before, yeah. Otherwise, he's a big phonie
I simply love this channel. It always covers up all posibilities and thoughts without being afraid to trigger someone.Also time flys by while watching your videos, cause they are just so entertaining. Huge respect guys, excellent quality, amazing presentation and valid opinions.
Love from east Europe.
P.S. Sorry for any mistakes, my english are not the best.
I don't ever buy a new motorcycle. Always prefer old but had to watch the video cuz fortnine stuff is some quality stuff.
Asad Siraj the motorcycle s I want are brand new models that just came out so I will take that over used
Very good points. To each his own for sure. Reason I love used is I switch out a lot of parts anyway to customize the vehicle and I enjoy working and learning on them.
Asad Siraj yea if you are going to do that , then I do understand you.
I think if a motorcycle is not good enough stock, then its not worth buying. But thats just me.
At least we both love working on our motorcycles!
Daniel B i can see that with off road bikes but I'm looking for a more street oriented bike as my next bike. Oh my profile pic? Man I need to update that. I was planning on getting that as my first bike but I ended up getting a 01 ninja 500r!
Stephen Hartley Brundrett hear you man. Also there are some bikes that are very special like the 05 06 gsxr 1000. I bought my dream project bike being the 05 R1 when they had great horsepower for a fraction of what its worth.
Rewatching this now it s amazing to see that even 6 years ago the quality of this channel, on photography and contents was hugely high. 6 years..damm time goes fast. Thank u Ryan!
Ive been breaking in my bike this way without even knowing this was the correct way to break in the engine.
See its my first bike and its not a slow one so im slowly learning and getting used to the bike.
I take it out on the town streets and go from light to light then climb up on the highway for a few miles while dropping the hammer as i enter the hwy.
Then i exit the hwy and come back towards town and do some sprints on the lonely service road with no traffic.
After 30 min or so i come home with a big smile on my face and call it the day.
Good job.
As taught 60 years ago and currently. Applies to all engines . Don't forget to change oil early during break in . Break in all moving parts , U2 .
Holy shit man this channel cracks me up 😂 I’m supposed to be asleep right now but I’m binge watching all the videos.
I love that comment: "Every experienced rider is inexperienced on a new bike". I've been riding for 30 years and just picked up a brand new Guzzi V7 Centenario yesterday - totally different from my previous long-term BMW R1150-R, I felt like I was a learner.
Still can't believe how high quality these videos are, glad I found your channel and am incredibly surprised at how small your subscriber base is. Cheers for all the videos!
I'm glad you went into this I've sold motorcycles and worked on them for 50 years and I never could argue with too many people that say you don't need to do anything to break in an engine which is the stupidest thing I've ever heard of but anyway thank you..
I got a good kick out of the "Evils of Capitalism" and other contentious topics section. I dig this a bit more than the full-on skits becuase it's funny while still being an informative format. But, literally everyone else seems to dig the skits and I won't lie and say that they aren't imaginative and well done. 'Cause they are, especially the Bill Nye themed invisible riding one.
Also, WOW, I did not know anything about the piston/piston wall thing, and the sandpaper analogy is great like Lawrence said. That's incredibly informative, I'll have to keep that in mind.
This is probably the most well-produced motorcycle channel on UA-cam.
This is by far the best video and best information I have heard on this topic. It seems there are many people at both extreme ends of the spectrum on how you should break-in a motorcycle, but this video does a great job of splitting the difference. It explains a few things that I don't hear touched on very much and does a great job turning that into a logical and compelling argument for proper break-in (as well as making good, well informed points on what constitutes improper break-in!)
The middle way is probably the right way, stick below 50% revs for at least a few hundred miles without lugging the engine.
@@chrissmith2114 So is it best to usually go at 3-4k rpms and occasionally go higher revs so that the engine gets all the 'feels' ?
been lurking your page for a month. the process we use to break in RC engines is roughly the same. avoid low pressure, avoid overrev, dont baby, but dont stress. since all engines are basically identical your logic is sound. got a new sub.
5:53 Holy cow! how many shots did that timelapse took? !!!
Amazing job, pure quality content in this channel, love it !
It's not a time lapse. He just jumped 4 times with different outfits, shot with a high fps, try to recreate the previous jumps using the same path and speed, right cutting at the right time, and then stitched the videos to create an almost flawless sequence.
Edit: Had to edit my grammar in case another grammar Nazi comes. My grammar was f'd up because I wrote it while drunk during liquor ban and English is my 2nd language.
take*
I didn’t notice, too busy looking at the trees. Thanks for the point out.
I’ve watched this before. Watching it again on this beautiful Sunday as I’m about to get my new bike out! Bought it this winter and it’s waiting for me.
"... and anything that will break, will break under warranty." That cracked me up, great closing statement!
I find myself watching some of your videos multiple times, that's how good and informative they are. I'm watching this one for the third as I'm buying another new bike next month.
here i am watching it again with my new bike
I think I will my first NEW motorcycle in 2 or 3 Years. Tomorrow I'll get a Yamaha YBR 125 Custom! I love it!
The only explanation I needed to see. Done. I love your simple yet direct methods of getting the info to seat into my brain piston. Bravo!!
Can you show us how to un-break an old motorcycle? Thanks.
meme master 69 just put new shit on until she’s not hurt
🤣🤣🤣
The UA-cam algorithm is spot-on ... this video was suggested to me and my first bike gets delivered tomorrow afternoon
This video is so well shot, it's like the older Top Gear of the motorbike World =P
Great stuff.
This technique for breaking in a new engine matches EXACTLY what Kawasaki was describing in their shop and owner's manual for 90s vintage KDX200. The only difference was Kawasaki also added the idea of the first ride being only 10-15 long before stopping and letting the engine cool down. Next ride adds 10 minutes before cool down. Repeat until you log an hours long ride at which point Kawi said the engine was broken in. As each ride got longer you took the revs higher.
New to motorcycling and motorcycling interest. And your videos Ryan, are staggeringly awesome. Crisp, informative, not lengthy, and word efficient. Simply phenomenal.
someone who is talking real sense about motorcycle engine break in, cool illustrations 🙏 👍
From an automotive engineer and test driver perspective, you said 4 wrong things according to my experience testing vehicles. First: dont EVER let your engine idle for more than 2min, let alone 5 and let alone a brand new engine. An idling engine does not create oil pressure, and when an engine is running on low oil pressures, it creates heat spots. Now imagine the "heat spot" a brand new engine will create at the tight rings idling for 5 minutes in a cold day. Second: buying in november. Preferably you never want to break in an engine in cold moisty weather, like the one in the video. The (slight) condensation spots that is created within the parts can cause either overheating and/or overcooling and crack materials with different heat expansion rates. Third. Dont do figure 8s to wear in tires. Tires wear-in with temperature, pressure and inertia. One should pump the up the pressure a little more than you would usually ride with and just go out on a sunny day and ride some speeds, hard breaking and corners. Dont worry tires now a days arent "waxed" anymore, you wont crash on a sunny dry weather. And the tire needs that higher speed inertia to sit the wires properly in place. Fourth. What you do NOT want to do when breaking in a new engine is the constant "on and off/hot and cold" cycles like you mentioned. A new engine still needs to "sit and fit" all its components, and that wont happen properly if you constantly let the engine components heat and cool all the time, because different materials and parts sizes/shapes have different heat expansion rates, and if you keep messing around with those expansion rates by heating and cooling it all the time, you might create scratches or even cracks. Theoretically the best way to break in a motorized vehicle is to turn it on and run it with smooth throttle (never full throttle) across all rpms and gears for a veeeeeery long time. Hours. Hundreds of km/miles. And after the first oil change you really shouldnt bother anymore....oh, and preferably you should break in an engine using the best possible quality gasoline you can find, that helps the spark plug, valves, rings, injectors and exhaust/cat to break in properly as well..
...cold days also impact the mentioned heat expansion rates. A very cold engine metal is a lot more "compacted/contracted" in a cold day than a hot day, and expanding that material all the way up to working temperatures might create cracks or scratches. About the low oil pressure thing on point number one: to understand more the theorie behind oil pressures, please watch a "cold day idling" video from a channel called Engineering Explained. That dude explains very simply why idling for 5min is a bad idea. Also, believe it or not, some lab testing we performed at the university showed that, even from dead cold, a piston hardly ever takes more than 20-40seconds to be at working temps. (Gasoline high comp engine; this result does not apply for turbo or diesel engines).
Well put.... I will put that in mind 👍
Good stuff
Basically, do nothing what the video said.
I would still argue that there's more to it than just fuel wash and heat spots in the cylinder. There's also the simple fact that until the engine is warm, nothing fits right. There'll be play, and play is bad. Letting it idle longer allows the heat to permeate the block and things can expand to a more reasonable fit. Bear in mind I'm no expert, but that's how I see it. I'll continue to idle my car for 10 minutes before leaving for work for now.
I like your "give it a few minutes and see if there is something wrong" approach.
Some years ago I worked for an engineer who scoffed at my remark about breaking engines in. He said that the materials alloys and manufacturing techniques ( CNC machines that can work to 80 Millionth's of an inch) Obviate the whole break-in thing. Which back in the bad old days of manual machining was required because manual machining imposes all manner of irregularities on the metal surfaces and simply can not compete with CNC. So the surfaces of things like the cylinders, rings gears, bearings etc., are already damn near perfect. And of course metals technology is vastly superior today too.
That said you certainly won't harm anything by taking it easy for a few thousand miles.
This is motorcycle Top Gear, I love it.
I’ve been doing this for 50 years and have had25 new bikes and never have I had a problem!!
Excellent how to video! Still breaking in my 2017 R1200GSA at the moment. Will apply this immediately. Keep up the videos!
Always let the science do the talking! I'm all for listening to experienced rider's opinions but you always have the best scientific facts! Thanks FortNine. I get my first bike in 6 days and couldn't be more excited.
This is also the correct procedure for gearbox break-in. Great Video!
This week I am in the same situation; I got a new Ducati 1260S, and I'm totally agree with you: " experience bikers in a new bike, get inexperienced ". Good videos
Manual doesn’t say to ride gently. It says to avoid full throttle acceleration and hard engine breaking. So just a normal ride for most. The video is a good summary of advice from forum “experts”. The procedure demonstrated won’t hurt, but it looks and sounds like a spell to me.
Aleks Nestserau For most ducati's it says to stay below certain rpms, not specifically redline.
For my z1000sx it said to go under 5 rpm for the first 500 kms and under 7 for 1500 kms.
On cb500f it was something like under 5 rpm for 1000 kms.
Same thing with the cars.
Aleks Nestsera
Yep. For my Scrambler, I had to stay below 6k rpm for 600 miles, and then below 7k till 1500 miles. It also said to vary the road type to hills and valleys like Fort suggests.
Cool story Thgt Ggyh. I'm sure the dealership laughed at you while they counted your money.
One legend you are - Big fan of your in just 3-4 videos, high-quality shots, super knowledge, great overall experience .. Way to go buddy !
Damn your production value has gone really high. Same great info in a new package.
Yep, I just broke in my new CRF300 Rally like this.
The service manager at the Honda shop pretty much echoed your advise.
Rock On
Great vid, I'm picking up my first new bike tomorrow and I'm a bundle of nerves and anticipation. This gives me some things to focus on 🤙
How is it a year later?
@@nathanielyoungman4454 it's the best thing that ever happened to me. I've put 20,300 km on it so far and my favourite thing in the world to do is ride my bike. I even started a gang called the delightful strangers 😂, there's five of us so far
Alright I love this man how he delivers his humors in motorcycle 💓
You look like Joffery from game of thrones . . . bloody good actor, also helpful video thanks
Perfect timing! Picking up my new BMW this week (but bought it last October). Those are great tips. Love your videos - my favourites out there for real reviews with integrity.
The factory has usually test ran your new bike on their dyno. I think they may bring it up to redline without a lot of RPM varying. It does get a very long cool down cycle.
Love and agree with the first advice... buy in Nov. I'm picking up my brand new Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 (2024) tomorrow Nov. 4. I called around to dealerships within a rideable range to get the best price. $5500 out the door... taxs title & tax included. No added fees. That's about $2300 below what most were wanting earlier in the year.
You said vary rpm well above lugging (low) and well below redline (high) and that seems good. Also I would add vary load from half throttle to full throttle for short bursts to apply ring pressure while allowing cool down between bursts. Look up "motoman engine break in" to see why (if you have not already).
Did a medium break in to my brand new 2019 CB1000-R. After 600 miles i did an oil change with Castrol Actevo 10w30 & Honda OEM filter. Flushed the Coolant and replaced it with Engine ice. After the odo jacked up 10,000 miles i am Using Motul 7100 4T 10W40 with K&N 204 filters. I fill up with Octane 87 Non ethanol Fuel & always add an ounce of StarTron fuel treatment. The scope of the story is: What you feed your baby will make it Healthy down the Road. When you have a baby and feed him/her quality organic raw foods he/she will live healthy, disease free and graceful 😇
One day I'll get a new motorcycle. One day.....
vzda123 don't do it! It is addictive once you do
Just got my first new serious bike in november - gotta say it's a very pleasant feeling, when you know that nobody sat on this thing, nobody raped the engine, and, needless to say - it's worth to buy a new bike just to peal off that protective film off of the brand new dash.
Сергей Метельский 👍🏽😎 virgins...
Hope you get it already
One day usually means never 😐
Firstly, let me come clean. I was in mind to fulfill a dream I have. That is, to one day go on a bike trip with my brother. Destination to be decided (Germany most likely).
Problem is... I don’t have a licence yet. But here’s the kicker..
After watching quite a few FortNine videos.. I’ve had my desire to just simply go on a bike tour, turn into a desire to commute on a bike.
I’m now more driven to get a licence (and bike), more than ever.
FortNine made me excited to learn.
They cover things like techniques to watch out for, to even waterproof jackets.
What I appreciate is the type of content that FortNine covers. It’s not just “ooh let’s have a look at this bike, from manufacturer X”.
I guess I’m just trying to thank you for the good work. One day (soon), I may enjoy the outdoors, on a motorbike as you quite obviously do.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
Just once I’d like to see a “how to break your bike!” video!
Rode my CRF300L Rally from the dealership with 0 miles on it, 130 miles back home. Pulled over once to refuel. Varied speeds between 70-80mph on the interstate all the way back. Rode it as I normally would after that. No smoke or sparkles in the oil at 450 miles when I changed it. Hit 1,000 miles in less than three weeks commuting. Get between 60-70mpg depending on how I drive it. Most of the break in period is in the first 40 mile of riding.
Cheah !
How da hell you only have 20 likes on this? lol
Cheah !
@@MrCODEmaster00 best video
Nice logical and easy to follow explanation. I also use this method of varying the revs without loading the engine but see so many riders on forums fail to grasp this concept. I’ll use this video to explain my point of view. 👍
but you want to load the engine. Literally what he is saying
Rite outta the box...Ride it
like you stole it.... with a few
easy relaxing cruises between
some of the best youtube content for motorcyclists.
Hey Ryan! Absolutely love your videos and you commentary! Just wanted to know whether these rules apply to all kinds of bikes across various platforms and manufacturers? Or just top of the line German engineering... And I've also heard erratic hard riding has an impact on the fuel efficiency.. your thoughts?
Your fuel economy over 1000 km or so is minuscule compared to an engine replacement outside warranty, so it may be worth varying your speed.
The only channel to beat top gear editing skills
You're not going to overheat the rings and warp them. The only heat-related issue that rings can run into is if the gap is too narrow. No amount of break-in will save you then, 'cause the rings will expand, the gap will close, the rings will continue to expand and then you get a seized ring.
Hard break-in is what every engine builder I've worked with recommends. And I've never torn an engine down that had damage from hot spots in the cylinder absent some condition that caused gross overheating or complete loss of oil pressure. And I've torn down a shitload of engines.
Metal shavings shouldn't be an issue past the first hour (max time it should take to break an engine in), if that. A competently-assembled engine will be extremely clean and produce next to nothing in the way of shavings. If an engine has an oil filter, it should be more than sufficient to catch all the alleged "break-in crud" that will happen.
so same with car? Buy new car, heat up the engine by driving slowly 10km and then vary rpm from 2k to 6k?
good comment
I love this guys sense of humor
I've seen like every vid on this channel
Do you really need that "like"?
Like no way...
As about as good and concise info on Break in period as one could wish for..Nice Video Ryan.
Great video! I appreciate the explanation. How many km does your method of varying the power and cooling take to do the break-in? I've seen 1000-1600km for break-in periods on other bikes but your video seems to suggest your method would only take maybe a few hundred km.
How long would you let it cooldown?
Wow, that idling part is what my dad used to do with out bike back in 90’s. I kinda did is because of that without actually knowing what it does, since I live in a cold weather it’s very helpful.
You miss out the most important two things before starting for the first time. Check the liquid levels and the tyre pressures.
The quality of these videos is amazing
I find the break in period usually involves losing a few tassels on the hand grips.
Im okay with that.
Wait. We're not taking about the same Tassels, are we? 😑
The only bike I ever bought brand new was a 2006 KLR650. I just rode it...not too fast, not too slow, not too moderate. Variety is the spice of life, and engine break in it seems.
Para los que hablamos español, "braking period" sería el periodo de asentamiento o "despegue", ¿sí?
Hey, mechanic here. I beat the piss out of it to break in a new engine. Works great every time. The being gentle for however many miles is a myth at this point.
I see you are getting typical Vancouver weather....
That's what motoman has been saying for decades. Great info man.
I'm too scared to hit redline on my bike LOL.
Do it in first gear then. SMH! ;-)
You are right. I have been in the auto industry for more than 30 years involved in Product Engineering of gears and axles. Bearings and gears don´t like high speed or load when new. We do break-in cycles on dynamometers always before testing or you WILL get premature failures with bearings galling and gears scuffing or pitting. Break-in should be low to medium load cycles, up and down for first few hours.... NEVER lug it or rev it to redline when new if you want a long lasting gear-train. Then again, you don´t need to die of boredom when breaking it a motorcycle. Figure half throttle and short shifting for first few hundred miles...
@@horozco4 sir may i ask? How about on scooters? Do they need break-ins?
then u should not.
Give' er man......
That’s pretty much my method- don’t lug, don’t bounce redline, vary rpm, and throttle. I also prefer to do the first oil change quite early. If re torque of head bolts is recommended, do it.
Do you recommend changing the coolant very early along with the first oil change?
to remove any contaminants
That's the way I've been doing "break in" on motorcycles for 40 years and I've had many many motorcycles. Shift it, down shift it for 15-20 min without reaching the red zone then, take a break to let the engine cool down. After that, repeat the same exercise until you reach 500-700 km, change the oil & filter and you're ready. I've done it once during a track day (15 min session/30 min break) with a lot of shifting & down shifting without getting close to the red zone then, I did two more rides on the street to complete the "break in" period.
I'm so dumb. I literally sat here waiting for him to bring up "how to brake in your new motorcycle" lol I didn't realize the title said "BREAK" not "BRAKE" 🤭
Best motorcycle videos on the web.... thank you!
Can we get a motorcycle stand comparison video? Would like to see your thoughts on some of the various options
Okie dokie. ~RF9
Just The Best Break-In Video Yet on UA-cam. Best Ever. Honestly.
Love from India @Fortnine