With adding weather afterwards it's absolutely the best way for me. The stripes just have to be good enough and that's the easiest/fastest way to get there for me!
I stumbled upon your channel by chance while looking for ways to paint Iron Warriors myself and I gotta say, the quality of your videos is outstanding. You definitely deserve more subs
Firstly, great picture/name. Exceptional. Thanks very much, hope you enjoyed watching. If more people stumble on us like yourself we'll get there eventually.
When it comes to painting I'm definitely just following tutorials and advice in the comments. Video wise it's been by job for about 7 years, bit of an unfair advantage in that regard. Hope you liked the video!
I know this reply is 6months late, however, I really enjoyed the 'backstage' process you're allowing us to see. Looking forward to catching up to the Warpsmith!
Thought that the first one looks great! :-) Also like the idea of painting all the trim colours on the same model to compare. Never thought of doing that, but seems like a great idea!
Don't know if anyone else has told you this, however substitute the gundam marker with a Micron felt tip india ink pen. Having a gundam marker and microns myself, the marker is designed for gundams which are much larger models, however microns are simple india ink pens with a felt tip which won't mark weirdly on non-paper surfaces like a pencil would, but also come in tip sizes in anything between sharpie and needle unlike the gundam brand. I use these on my imperial fists and have even drawn on the actual fist logo with little difficulty myself.
I've painted about 50 Iron Warriors over the last few months and finally found a scheme I love that you might dig: Base with Chaos Black, then dry brush (progressively less and less) with Iron Warriors, Leadbelcher, and Necron Compound. Those layers ought to provide enough highlighted edges for you to slap Snakebite Leather on the trim for it to appear semi-bronze-ish/gold-ish. I then wash it with a 1:1 mix of Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade on all the silver and Seraphim Sepia on the trim. The pauldrons and any other black areas get a few layers of Black Legion contrast paint. Hazard stripes are done by drawing the outline with a thin layer of Rhinox Hide, then filling in with Averland Sunset and edge highlighting with Yriel Yellow and Phalanx Yellow. Scuff up the edges with some Black Legion and Rhinox Hide to give it a worn look. Eyes are White Scar with Blood Angels Red contrast filled in. I then use a glaze-like consistency of Mephiston Red along the rims of the eyes for a glowing effect. Aaaaand that about does it. I've tried so many different schemes before settling on this and it seems to be the most forgiving and produce the best results for me. Hope this might help!
My personal work up for armor trim on IW is Tinny Tin from Vallejo, minor wash with nuln oil, Balthazar gold edge highlight, retributor armor extreme edge highlight. It’s dark but it still has a hint of gold
I really like how you work through different methods and see what you like. As a new painter, I'm finding that very inspirational. I'm also not convinced of the verdigris paint - Cult of Paint have a verdigris and a rust tutorial I tried and am getting on well with, have a look there if you've not seen them!
Thanks! I'm glad you're finding it useful. I haven't watched the cult of paint tutorial, I'll have to check it out. I've seen one from the sauce and grim dark compendium and probably forgotten most of them! Haha
@@thepaintingphase Patrick - you frequently mention a tutorial you watched that was great for showing good coverage and consistencies of paint for different purposes such as glazing or washing (I remember the presenter demonstrated on his fingernail?) I'm afraid I can't find where you name the channel and video, could you share it again? It sounds super useful. Thank you!
@@pagancrew I think in part 1 I mentioned Juan Hidalgo demos the consistency of his glazes on his thumb in his tutorial for iron warriors. That definitely came in handy for me as it helped connect the dots between how thin the paint needs to be but also how much to have on your brush. With glazing I was definitely overloading the brush and actually washing the mini instead.
I find that a little fine tip micron paint pen from hobby lobby does wonders for the perfidious hazard stripes. And I also had bad luck with the contrast trim, and found that Scale 75 Decayed metal is an excellent warm brownish bronze.
@@thepaintingphase it goes on pretty smooth if you ever feel compelled to do an entire Horus Heresy army of them like I did. I never want to see another hazard stripe haha
For the verdigris, for me, the big reason that it doesn't look good is that you have placed it on some of the steel bits. Verdigris is to bronze what rust is for iron and steel. Bronze oxide - verdigris - is green. When bronze "rusts", it turns green. Iron or steel won't ever acquire verdigris - that is just not how the chemistry works. So verdigris on steel just looks wrong. Even if your brain is not aware of the fact that steel won't ever develop verdigris, your subconscious definitely is aware that verdigris on steel is just wrong. But - I'm hugely enjoying your series so far!
That... Makes complete sense. Thanks so much for the advice I really appreciate the long response and science lesson. I didn't know much about metal but makes complete sense to stick to the reality of it to make it look good. Glad you're enjoying the series!
@@thepaintingphase I was going to mention this as well, then saw this comment. Verdigris goes on copper, bronze, and brass. Rust for everything else (in general mini painting). Gold doesn't tarnish obviously - that's why humans love collecting it!
I've used the tape for my heresy army and I really enjoy it. Maybe try stippling the black with a drybrush? I really like the look as it comes out looking fairly weathered.
I use hobbycraft 2.5 mm masking tape. Cheap and does the trick. You just have to be firm when laying it down to make sure it curves and follows the line of the shoulder pad.
Yes, I agree. Wasn't a huge fan of red, the warp Smith doesn't have any cloth on it so not overly fussed about this test. Would try black or some kind of dirty/tan next time?
I've heard it's recommended to heat up the bottle and model before using the dirty down verdigris but I haven't touched it yet so I wouldn't know. These look amazing though!
@@thepaintingphase Hair dryer heat up helps, at least for the rust and moss, don't own the verdigris. Both moss and rust really look good, so I'd assume with some work the verdigris will be great too
Don't use a wet palette with metallic paint. The paint separates too easily. A dry palette will keep the metallic flakes bound in the paint and give you a better finish on your model.
@@thepaintingphase Like I said, any metallic including GW will separate on a wet palette very quick, so avoid for best results. As for air, they are pre-thinned for an airbrush and not meant for brush painting, but you can use them for that without an issue on a dry or wet palette. I don't use them unless I am airbrushing. I like your channel, not scared to show your learning process, accept feedback and your production quality is superb! I look forward to more.
Hear me out, i have been dying to paint my chaos marines in iron warriors colors. I was going to be inspired by Dawn of War Dark Crusade paint scheme and then i saw on internet that iron warriors colors are completely different ?
i watched the vid, you seem to overload the brush way more often than would be considered normal. with the exception of using washes where you would want them to pool and collect in recesses. you would have more control of the paint if you 1. thin it instead of using it directly out of the bottle ( too thick and gloopy ) 2. once thinned, load your brush and dab off excess paint on a paper towel before bringing the brush to your mini. you should not see a puddle or a pool of any normal paint while you go. this will give you thinner coverage but also keep things cleaner on the end result. overall a decent video though
Thanks for watching, and the tips! I've been thinning everything with the exception of air paints though by the sounds of it probably not enough. Definitely had a few mistakes that have come from an overloaded brush so I'm more wary of it now.
For the Verdigris, DO NOT use water on your brush to thin it down. The water will start the activation of the verdigris. after you have some on your model you then start using water to spread it and change the colors. Check out Artis Opus he has a great video just playing with the verdigis ua-cam.com/video/RnrXlvIHvTk/v-deo.html. i dont like his end result but it defiantly helps to see someone else test the paint then doing it on your own.
I'll have to give it another watch, along with this video to check how damp my brush was! I tried to put it on neat and then play with it afterwards but just because I tried to do that doesn't mean I actually did! Thanks for the link, I'll give it a watch. I think I'll miss verdigris off the final mini though just to be safe.
I'm kind of late with the advice but paint the hazard stripes as best as you can, then oil wash or enamel wash a brown grimey colour over it and you can blur the lines and at the same time make it look weathered
![Heresy & Hazard Stripes: Iron Warriors for the Age of Darkness [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U9sOaPoLcAI/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m glad the “pencil line” hazard stripe approach has worked for you; it’s always been the easiest for me!
With adding weather afterwards it's absolutely the best way for me. The stripes just have to be good enough and that's the easiest/fastest way to get there for me!
I stumbled upon your channel by chance while looking for ways to paint Iron Warriors myself and I gotta say, the quality of your videos is outstanding. You definitely deserve more subs
Firstly, great picture/name. Exceptional.
Thanks very much, hope you enjoyed watching. If more people stumble on us like yourself we'll get there eventually.
You may claim that you don't know what you're doing painting wise but this is probably the best edited videos in minitiature painting
When it comes to painting I'm definitely just following tutorials and advice in the comments. Video wise it's been by job for about 7 years, bit of an unfair advantage in that regard. Hope you liked the video!
@@thepaintingphase I can tell that for sure. Really love the videos because it's relatable for the regular joe that has not won a golden demon
@@KMKimo oh definitely, not arsed about competitions at all, just documenting my journey and hopefully making some fun videos.
I know this reply is 6months late, however, I really enjoyed the 'backstage' process you're allowing us to see. Looking forward to catching up to the Warpsmith!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thought that the first one looks great! :-)
Also like the idea of painting all the trim colours on the same model to compare. Never thought of doing that, but seems like a great idea!
Don't know if anyone else has told you this, however substitute the gundam marker with a Micron felt tip india ink pen. Having a gundam marker and microns myself, the marker is designed for gundams which are much larger models, however microns are simple india ink pens with a felt tip which won't mark weirdly on non-paper surfaces like a pencil would, but also come in tip sizes in anything between sharpie and needle unlike the gundam brand. I use these on my imperial fists and have even drawn on the actual fist logo with little difficulty myself.
Nobody has said that, thanks so much for the advice. The gundam marker was a bit clunky so something smaller and more precise would be ideal!
I've painted about 50 Iron Warriors over the last few months and finally found a scheme I love that you might dig:
Base with Chaos Black, then dry brush (progressively less and less) with Iron Warriors, Leadbelcher, and Necron Compound. Those layers ought to provide enough highlighted edges for you to slap Snakebite Leather on the trim for it to appear semi-bronze-ish/gold-ish.
I then wash it with a 1:1 mix of Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade on all the silver and Seraphim Sepia on the trim.
The pauldrons and any other black areas get a few layers of Black Legion contrast paint.
Hazard stripes are done by drawing the outline with a thin layer of Rhinox Hide, then filling in with Averland Sunset and edge highlighting with Yriel Yellow and Phalanx Yellow. Scuff up the edges with some Black Legion and Rhinox Hide to give it a worn look.
Eyes are White Scar with Blood Angels Red contrast filled in. I then use a glaze-like consistency of Mephiston Red along the rims of the eyes for a glowing effect.
Aaaaand that about does it. I've tried so many different schemes before settling on this and it seems to be the most forgiving and produce the best results for me. Hope this might help!
My personal work up for armor trim on IW is Tinny Tin from Vallejo, minor wash with nuln oil, Balthazar gold edge highlight, retributor armor extreme edge highlight. It’s dark but it still has a hint of gold
Good stuff. I like seeing the learning process. Gives me confidence as I start my painting journey.
We’re glad your getting some use out of the video.
This came out so nicely Pat, the base and wear on the legs looks especially good man.
Thanks dude ❤️❤️❤️
I really like how you work through different methods and see what you like. As a new painter, I'm finding that very inspirational. I'm also not convinced of the verdigris paint - Cult of Paint have a verdigris and a rust tutorial I tried and am getting on well with, have a look there if you've not seen them!
Thanks! I'm glad you're finding it useful. I haven't watched the cult of paint tutorial, I'll have to check it out. I've seen one from the sauce and grim dark compendium and probably forgotten most of them! Haha
@@thepaintingphase Patrick - you frequently mention a tutorial you watched that was great for showing good coverage and consistencies of paint for different purposes such as glazing or washing (I remember the presenter demonstrated on his fingernail?) I'm afraid I can't find where you name the channel and video, could you share it again? It sounds super useful. Thank you!
@@pagancrew I think in part 1 I mentioned Juan Hidalgo demos the consistency of his glazes on his thumb in his tutorial for iron warriors. That definitely came in handy for me as it helped connect the dots between how thin the paint needs to be but also how much to have on your brush. With glazing I was definitely overloading the brush and actually washing the mini instead.
@@thepaintingphase Thank you!
Big congrats on moving forward
Thanks Jon!
I'm just here for the wink and the spin!
Anytime! 😉
I find that a little fine tip micron paint pen from hobby lobby does wonders for the perfidious hazard stripes. And I also had bad luck with the contrast trim, and found that Scale 75 Decayed metal is an excellent warm brownish bronze.
I recently picked up some decayed metal, unfortunately after I finished this series! Will have to paint some more...
@@thepaintingphase it goes on pretty smooth if you ever feel compelled to do an entire Horus Heresy army of them like I did.
I never want to see another hazard stripe haha
@@JanitorScruffy I can only imagine, well blooming done!
For the verdigris, for me, the big reason that it doesn't look good is that you have placed it on some of the steel bits.
Verdigris is to bronze what rust is for iron and steel. Bronze oxide - verdigris - is green. When bronze "rusts", it turns green. Iron or steel won't ever acquire verdigris - that is just not how the chemistry works.
So verdigris on steel just looks wrong. Even if your brain is not aware of the fact that steel won't ever develop verdigris, your subconscious definitely is aware that verdigris on steel is just wrong.
But - I'm hugely enjoying your series so far!
That... Makes complete sense. Thanks so much for the advice I really appreciate the long response and science lesson. I didn't know much about metal but makes complete sense to stick to the reality of it to make it look good.
Glad you're enjoying the series!
@@thepaintingphase I was going to mention this as well, then saw this comment. Verdigris goes on copper, bronze, and brass. Rust for everything else (in general mini painting). Gold doesn't tarnish obviously - that's why humans love collecting it!
I've used the tape for my heresy army and I really enjoy it. Maybe try stippling the black with a drybrush? I really like the look as it comes out looking fairly weathered.
Cool ideas.
Looks pretty good I'd be happy.
Thanks Zack!
I use hobbycraft 2.5 mm masking tape. Cheap and does the trick. You just have to be firm when laying it down to make sure it curves and follows the line of the shoulder pad.
Very nice and great Job 🙃 your videos help me a lot 🙃 thank you very much 🙃👍🏾
Thanks for watching and I'm glad you're finding them useful!
Looks great, nice work. Only thing I would do different personally is have black cloth instead of red, but otherwise almost exactly the same. Awesome
Yes, I agree. Wasn't a huge fan of red, the warp Smith doesn't have any cloth on it so not overly fussed about this test. Would try black or some kind of dirty/tan next time?
I've heard it's recommended to heat up the bottle and model before using the dirty down verdigris but I haven't touched it yet so I wouldn't know. These look amazing though!
Thank you! It says "warm" I thought I'd give room temperature/hand warmth a go first. I'll try a hair dryer next!
Rust seemed to work ok though.
@@thepaintingphase good luck then!
@@necronwarlord9188 thanks dude, thanks for the advice.
@@thepaintingphase Hair dryer heat up helps, at least for the rust and moss, don't own the verdigris. Both moss and rust really look good, so I'd assume with some work the verdigris will be great too
@@lu3tz I'll give it a go, thanks!
Don't use a wet palette with metallic paint. The paint separates too easily. A dry palette will keep the metallic flakes bound in the paint and give you a better finish on your model.
A few other people have mentioned this, any air paints I put in a try pallette now, vellejo ones for example. GW metallics seem to work ok?
@@thepaintingphase Like I said, any metallic including GW will separate on a wet palette very quick, so avoid for best results. As for air, they are pre-thinned for an airbrush and not meant for brush painting, but you can use them for that without an issue on a dry or wet palette. I don't use them unless I am airbrushing. I like your channel, not scared to show your learning process, accept feedback and your production quality is superb! I look forward to more.
@@MiniatureMasterClass my rule of thumb has been, if it's good enough for Richard Grey, I probably can't do it but I'll try.
Hear me out, i have been dying to paint my chaos marines in iron warriors colors. I was going to be inspired by Dawn of War Dark Crusade paint scheme and then i saw on internet that iron warriors colors are completely different ?
i watched the vid, you seem to overload the brush way more often than would be considered normal. with the exception of using washes where you would want them to pool and collect in recesses. you would have more control of the paint if you 1. thin it instead of using it directly out of the bottle ( too thick and gloopy ) 2. once thinned, load your brush and dab off excess paint on a paper towel before bringing the brush to your mini. you should not see a puddle or a pool of any normal paint while you go. this will give you thinner coverage but also keep things cleaner on the end result. overall a decent video though
Thanks for watching, and the tips! I've been thinning everything with the exception of air paints though by the sounds of it probably not enough. Definitely had a few mistakes that have come from an overloaded brush so I'm more wary of it now.
❤👍👍👍
Loving the channel
Thanks brother!
How does ceramite rust? Asking for a friend.
Not a clue, wanted to try it.
For the Verdigris, DO NOT use water on your brush to thin it down. The water will start the activation of the verdigris. after you have some on your model you then start using water to spread it and change the colors. Check out Artis Opus he has a great video just playing with the verdigis ua-cam.com/video/RnrXlvIHvTk/v-deo.html. i dont like his end result but it defiantly helps to see someone else test the paint then doing it on your own.
I'll have to give it another watch, along with this video to check how damp my brush was! I tried to put it on neat and then play with it afterwards but just because I tried to do that doesn't mean I actually did!
Thanks for the link, I'll give it a watch. I think I'll miss verdigris off the final mini though just to be safe.
Hey yourself a "wowstick mini" pat, only heretics use manual
I'll check it out! Amazon?
You’re way too critical of your paint jobs man… your stuff looks good!!
I'm kind of late with the advice but paint the hazard stripes as best as you can, then oil wash or enamel wash a brown grimey colour over it and you can blur the lines and at the same time make it look weathered
I've recently got some streaking grime, keen to try it out!