Quick Fix: 92 MR2 Turbo Instrument Cluster Dim LEDs
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- In this video: (Re-uploaded with Audio Correction)
A coworker dropped off a Instrument Cluster from an SW20 chassis 1992 MR2 Turbo. Original I was told that the after marker T10 LEDs used to replace the stock incandescent bulbs were not bright enough. When I first poked around the instrument cluster I learned that one of the LED bulb assembly was oriented 180 degrees out compared to the others. This may have been why the instrument cluster appeared dim. I also noticed the copper traces were rather worn so intended to replace a bit of surface area via the product in video. Under test the display flickered at around 10vDC and got worse as I increased the voltage to 12vDC. Assuming the instrument cluster is fed 12vDC for those bulbs I made a few assumptions. In hindsight the issue could come from a myriad of things.
1) The LEDs themselves appear to be rather cheap. Additionally, compact LED assemblies with a lot of arranged LEDs are problematic. Better automotive LED T10 bulbs could be purchased with a lower count of LEDs on them and produce the same luminescence.
2) My bench top power supply is not the most robust and could have been the cause of the flicker.
3) I could be incorrect about 12vDC being supplied by the vehicle for those bulbs.
As mentioned in the video you would typically use a current limiting resistor configuration to reduce current to LEDs when swapping from incandescent bulbs. However, since I placed a resistor in series with the LEDs that will actually increase current through the circuit. Which can give the LEDs a slightly brighter luminescence, but at reduced lifespan.
During the brief time skip at the end of the video I tested the instrument cluster with different resistors in parallel of the supply and ground. They ranged from 220 Ohm to 1M Ohm. The lower valued resistors produced too much flickering at lower voltages due to the increase in current. In the end a 1M Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor was used. Keep in mind "LED Brightness" is a bit subjective to the viewer. Regardless the small modification did produce the desired outcome for my coworker and hopefully this video helps someone else.
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The first possibility you listed is the correct answer.
The second and third are ruled out entirely.
This is a common issue for the mr2, and any other Toyota and Honda from that same era. People switch out to LED bulbs and the flicker occurs.
For some people it does not and everything is fine because they just happened to purchase a brand that played nicely with the 12v system. Brand names mean nothing, price means nothing, I have tried all manner of cheap eBay LED bulbs and some will flicker, others won't.
Another common issue is indeed the contacts being old and pressed in. This causes people to think their bulbs went out entirely. They also often put in their bulbs backwards.
I never used a gel pen for this issue, I resolve it with a small piece of sandpaper on the contacts instead, as well as using my fingernail to pry up the contacts on the black bulb holder just a tad so they press mildly harder when installed.
Light in the cluster does not come directly from the bulbs, it is filtered through "plastic glass" prism that has its ends pointed at the bulbs in certain angles. Hence, people have purchased bulbs that were very bright, but sat oriented too tall or short in their black seat. Causing them to be in the wrong place for the "plastic glass" to catch enough of the light.
They function like those cheap cyberpunk visors I've seen going around, which light up from bulbs hidden in the ear hooks.
The solution to end all flickering is to simply purchase more bulbs from different sellers that have different physical appearance, different bulb styles and orientations, and then try them each till you find a set that does not flicker.
The brightest ones usually are seated on black circuit boards these days. While the ones with white plastic cups (or blue ones like in your video) have the weaker light.
Everything you stated makes complete sense. Very much appreciate the feedback you gave to this video!
No problem, I like your work and presentation.
I'm not an electrician but I have been building and working on mr2' specifically since early 2000.
If I ever get my hands on a cluster panel again. I would like to try and use a capacitor to see what effects that would have on the flickering.
You wouldn't cause any harm since it is a simple circuit like any other in the vehicle: power from battery goes to a 15 amp fuse called "TAIL", then to the dimmer switch, then through two separate circular circuits. One for the bulbs in your video and one for all the others in the vehicle (buttons in door for window and lock control, Hvac and stereo and so on).
However, it will likely have no effect on the bulbs. If I explain my purchasing behavior you will likely understand. It's a defective product issue:
Purchase in bulk, they usually come in 20 for about 6 bucks, indicating the cheap nature of the product.
Wire them in series to a stand alone vehicle battery. Some will flicker immediately (flickering involves two or sometimes 3 of the emitters on one bulb while the rest remain dead).
I leave them all wired to the battery anyway for 24 hours or so, as some bulbs may seem fine now but begin flickering by the next day.
In 24 hours or so, I now know which bulbs are fine to keep and they will last years while the others are flickering garbage.
@@user-or1xh1vc8n when I lived in the UK I swapped out the incandescent bulbs in my living room for LEDs. They were tied to a dimmer switch that was good for voltage control but had an effect on the current draw in a manner which caused the bulbs to flicker while on LEDs unless one in the series of bulbs was a standard incandescent. My assumption was based on the total amount of current used in the circuit had a negative effect. I think a driver power supply would be more appropriate for the application of LEDs in the dash of an MR2 if put between the 12 volt supply and the LEDs themselves. Personally I just like to experiment if not just for morbid curiosity. Your experience you're sharing though is invaluable. Thank you again for your comments.