i’ll stick with my Paste Wax. I apply it every couple months. I have a Workbench for glue-ups and such. If I catch anyone sitting a cold drink on my saw, they’ll be shown the egress.
I'm with you. The only difference is I use a heat gun to bake the paste wax into the CI. No one sets anything on my CI or it's a rap on the knuckles with my ruler!!
For anybody scoring at home: Carbon Method is $85 for .5 fl oz. CRC is $8.50 for 11 fl oz. Is the Carbon Method result 220X better than CRC? Doesn't look like it to me. All things considered, I think the clear winner, BY MILES, is the CRC.
True, there is a pretty big price difference, but I didn't test it for slickness, so you might want to also topcoat the CRC with some Glidecote or something to reduce the stickiness.
@ejpierle to be fair it's better to compare the cost per square foot covered, per month - how far does the can of each of those products go, and how often do you need to reapply?
I recently did a video removing the rust from my saw. I left a cedar fence picket on the top for a couple of days and was greeted with my first major rust in 20 years of owning the saw. I use Johnson's Paste Wax, but if I ever switch, it will be to Carbon Method.
Glad to see you’re still making videos. This is great info. We have a metal fab table in the mechanical shop that we have been using WD-40 on but I’ll try the CRC product for it and the metal tabletops in the wood shop. Thanks!
Brand new Sawstop, I wanted the best protection possible. Cleaned and applied carbon method exactly as instructed. Month later I picked up a small cut off from my table and it rusted underneath the cut-off. I contacted Carbon Method and they said that my wood must have been extremely wet. Not the case, it was kiln dried mesquite. BTW the cut off sat on my table for about 2 weeks. I expected Carbon Method to send me more product to re-apply, but that was not the case. Been talking with a metallurgist and I am going to “cold blue” my table. Great video
Good test. I'd be interested to see how a less expensive ceramic coating would do in the same scenarios. I have used Boesheild T-9 and Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray coating, and haven't had any rust. However, I haven't let water sit on my tables saw, and I run a dehumidifier.
That probably helps the T-9 perform better. I think more coatings and re-coatings can build up too over time. I'll look at that Hybrid Solutions one, though.
I live in south MS where humidity is over 80% most of the year. Carbon Method has, by far, been my best protection. My table say is stained form previous corrosion but I started my band saw and jointer on carbon method the day i gat them in hte shop. Both are amazingly clean. It is expensive and is not a one and done coating. You must reapply regularly.
I have been using carbon method for about a year with great results. The reconditioning oil works better than anything I nave used to remove rust and get you started off with a pristine surface!
Thanks for sharing your testing and results. The suggestion of checking friction is a good idea as well as including the costs in the final summary as information and not impacting the results. Testing different rust removing methods would be another test methodology worth looking at.
Thank you for the excellent review of protection methods! Very well done!! Following your results, I would say the, "Bang for your buck" winner is CRC 3-36!!! At $8.99 a bottle and results just slightly less than CM, you can't beat it!!! And at less than 10% of the CM price! Used your link to purchase CRC. Thanks again
You did a very thorough amount of testing there. Well done. I've got an ancient old Craftsman jobsite saw that I've been using for several years now. It had a pretty rusty top when I bought it. I just sanded it as clean as I could and then laminated the top with Formica. No more rust. Nice and slippery. And it's a light gray color, so it's easy on the eyes and easy to see anything laying on the surface. The only part I have to look after is the cross slide grooves, and that just gets a little light oil now and then.
@@EveningWoodworker Works Great! Easy to clean. Glue doesn't stick to it. My crosscut sled glides across it very smoothly. Wouldn't have it any other way.
I use the harbor freight surface conditioning tool to remove rust from cast iron surfaces. It works great and the 120 grit pad even leaves a factory looking scratch pattern.
I’d like to see you try one more thing on your test Wing. What if you stuck a piece of zinc underneath to act as a sacrificial anode? Would that improve the performance of any of these products? It’s something I’ve been thinking of doing, but I’ve never gotten around to it.
Great video. The key take away? Don't put wet things on your table saw. I use paste wax, but I re-apply it about every 10-20 hours of use. It's only 1-2 minutes of work. The frequent application might mean that the cost ends up being similar to Carbon Coat though.
Great test, interesting results. Since SC Johnson paste wax dried up I've been using a bowling alley wax I found on Amazon with good results. It's a blend of carnauba, other waxes, turpentine, and mineral spirits. Gives a real nice finish and the wood gliding across is very satisfying. One other test you could do is leaving a piece of green lumber laying on the table for a couple days, pretty common way to mess up a table saw top.
@@testingoyay4648 I just looked, it's the first result on Amazon, red and white can that just says "bowling alley wax" by BWC company. I've been pleased with it. Pretty sure the can will last me several years.
3-36 is great for garden tools and such. I think there should be a part 2 where you sand some wood next to it and attempt to measure dirt attraction. Then, use a scale to measure drag using the same weight and wood block from the wear test.
Interesting tests. I’ve been using Glidecoat by itself and have had good results. Of course I don’t set any drink containers on the saw. Worst thing I had happen was when the wife brought me a grilled cheese sandwich for lunch one day. It was on a paper plate on top of one of those plastic plate holders with the chicken wire, cheese grater looking bottom, and set it on the saw. It sat there a couple of minutes, maybe before I noticed it. Didn’t see any marks when I moved it, but the next day there was a nice impression of the cheese grater bottom, about the size of a slice of bread. Anyway, looks like the Glidecoat has gone up in price from what I remember when I last bought it. So between the CRC and the Carbon Coat, the CRC is about 8 times cheaper. I guess it would also depend on how many applications can be applied from each product and how long they last. The CRC looks to be an easier, quicker application and that’s a plus for me. I think I’d rather be able to do the quick spray and go, then periodically do the light sanding and respray than the Carbon Coat process and probably still end up sanding it on occasion. A lot comes down to whether your saw doubles as a workbench or is just used as a saw. The weather where you live also has an effect. If it’s high humidity, but not a huge shop, maybe get an air conditioner or a dehumidifier. I have about 450 square feet and have a small window unit, but I don’t run it all the time and all my cast iron tops are doing well.
Thanks for this comparison, very helpful. Since most of my tools are hand-me-downs from a family member who passed, I have some pretty substantial rust from their time in storage. Any chance you are going to do a Part 2 so I can best get the rust off which has already accumulated? Thanks in advance!
I have used paste wax, boeshield, and exterior varnish, and the varnish was a mess. The other 2 did not work well. So I tried wipe on poly, as it is very thin, and it has turned out to be the best I have tried. Maybe the wiping on and wiping off drives it into the pores, but it has been great.
@@EveningWoodworker haven't had to reapply it, probably been at least a year since I tried it. You can hardly tell it is on there except for no spots on the ci.
I simply use a coat of paste wax, then buff then I use a cover made of mdf or plywood with felt glued to the bottom (the part that touches the tabletop). Once a year I use 3 or 4 0000 steel wool and prep to clean the saw tabletop then coat with paste wax.
@@EveningWoodworker I’m in Texas, no rust in 10 years. Before that 9.5 years in Madison Wisconsin, before that 3.5 years in Juneau, Alaska. No rust except in my old bones.
@@EveningWoodworker if I end up running a large amount of pine from HD through my saw I’ll clean up the top and rewaxed as needed. Just finished a remodel of my house that has taken about 10 years, working with treated pine to exotic woods. When in Alaska I also used the same technique on my bandsaw. As for my table saw with the top on my saw it doubles as a workbench for glue ups or setting my oscillating sander or grinder on. I cover the top of the top with sticky carpet and change it up when it gets too messy by peeling the carpet off and sticking new squares on it.
I live about 10 minutes from the beach in south florida, my garage door stays open about 8 hours a day. I put 4 coats of Carbon Method on it and it looks great still after 6 months. Totally worth it bc before it was a nightmare I have been wanting something for my hand tools though and I think now for that I'll chose the CR product. Ty
That's good to hear... the CRC did do well in these tests, but it may be good to add something additional to help it glide smoother especially on a hand plane or something the needs to slide a lot. Glidecote could work for that. But definitely try it both ways!
I use paste wax on my SawStop. I have a few rules I follow. One no metal on the surface, wood or plastic only. When done using the saw I have a piece of 3/4” MDO board that covers the surface. Not MDF, MDO is medium density overlay. The MDO is a couple of inches larger than the table saw. Yes, this sometimes is a pain, because every time I use the saw I have to remove the MDO. Small price to pay for an unmarked surface. This is in a home workshop.
I just happened to have the right size and something I could pick up all the tools laying on it. I either move it to a workbench or a pair of adjustable sawhorses.
That definitely would help. I put a piece of plywood on one side of mine to give me more workbench space and I'm sure it helps prevent some rust. Sounds similar to your solution...
Kudos on the uniqueness and ingenuity of your methodology, but you would need a controlled (ie, sterile) environment and at least one environment which duplicates the variations in shop temperature and humidity to really get an accurate read on the efficacy of each product. Impressive, nonetheless - keep up the good work!
Thank You great information I’ve been using (cringe warning) automotive paste wax for years, to those who worry about transfer to the wood have you ever prepared a car for painting, the wax is nearly impossible to remove and I’ve never had any known issues. Unfortunately my shop has been setting in storage for nearly 2 years most of the cast iron tops have minimal rust if at all one has a significant amount due to condensation and another due to abrasion while moving. One final note the newest polished cast iron is from 1972 and all are gray in color not silver.
Could a ceramic coating, like for protecting automotive paint, be used? That stuff repels water and makes it difficult for things (like corrosive bird poop, and bug guts) to stick to the surface.
Possibly, but the only problem with that is all of the rubbing boards back and forth on it. So if you apply a hard spray coating, it can eventually come off in the wear areas just like the shellac example. Then you have an uneven surface.
Just curious why you followed the mfg recommendations on all the products except the T-9? Applying another oil-based product on top of it, then rubbing it in, would surely change the characteristics of the protection of the base product.
I got the T-9/Glidecote recommendation from the Wood Whisperer a few years ago in one of his videos, but you have to wait until the T-9 is totally dry first. Then you apply the Glidecote. I don't think they really mix much.
I've been using paste wax for a few years now. On all my cast iron surfaces. And I have a strict no metal, and no liquids on any of those table tops. I have no rust, and I only reapply maybe twice a year. Application process is less than 10 minutes for all the tops, and lasts easily past the 6 months I give it. Just don't put cups, soda cans, or random tools on your cast iron tops and none of this should be a problem. I can say without a doubt, a little bit of vigilance goes an extraordinarily long way. Take care woodworkers and fabricators.
Yes, something is definitely better than nothing, and it seems like each product has a specialty... If you can afford CM, it is great, but if not, there are other options too
Carbon Method is WAY too expensive. Just not worth it. Paste wax works great if you reapply every month or so - and it's cheap. CRC look interesting - I wonder if it is slick like a wax?
i’ll stick with my Paste Wax. I apply it every couple months. I have a Workbench for glue-ups and such. If I catch anyone sitting a cold drink on my saw, they’ll be shown the egress.
Haha yeah that's a way to not get invited back!
I'm with you. The only difference is I use a heat gun to bake the paste wax into the CI. No one sets anything on my CI or it's a rap on the knuckles with my ruler!!
For anybody scoring at home: Carbon Method is $85 for .5 fl oz. CRC is $8.50 for 11 fl oz. Is the Carbon Method result 220X better than CRC? Doesn't look like it to me. All things considered, I think the clear winner, BY MILES, is the CRC.
True, there is a pretty big price difference, but I didn't test it for slickness, so you might want to also topcoat the CRC with some Glidecote or something to reduce the stickiness.
I agree. If the stuff was like 20 bucks I'd do it....
ok so apply the cheaper stuff 20x more often and tell me what your time is worth
@@Rob-df6py c'mon bro, wiping a table top... Also who says it lasts 1/20 as long?
@ejpierle to be fair it's better to compare the cost per square foot covered, per month - how far does the can of each of those products go, and how often do you need to reapply?
Very thorough methodology. Well thought out and executed. I appreciate your doing and sharing your work
Thanks!
I use the Carbon method on all my cast iron and it really works. Bite the bullet and get some and remember a little goes a long ways.
I recently did a video removing the rust from my saw. I left a cedar fence picket on the top for a couple of days and was greeted with my first major rust in 20 years of owning the saw. I use Johnson's Paste Wax, but if I ever switch, it will be to Carbon Method.
Glad to see you’re still making videos. This is great info. We have a metal fab table in the mechanical shop that we have been using WD-40 on but I’ll try the CRC product for it and the metal tabletops in the wood shop. Thanks!
Brand new Sawstop, I wanted the best protection possible. Cleaned and applied carbon method exactly as instructed. Month later I picked up a small cut off from my table and it rusted underneath the cut-off. I contacted Carbon Method and they said that my wood must have been extremely wet. Not the case, it was kiln dried mesquite. BTW the cut off sat on my table for about 2 weeks. I expected Carbon Method to send me more product to re-apply, but that was not the case. Been talking with a metallurgist and I am going to “cold blue” my table. Great video
Thanks! I'm curious about this cold blue technique
Good test. I'd be interested to see how a less expensive ceramic coating would do in the same scenarios. I have used Boesheild T-9 and Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray coating, and haven't had any rust. However, I haven't let water sit on my tables saw, and I run a dehumidifier.
That probably helps the T-9 perform better. I think more coatings and re-coatings can build up too over time. I'll look at that Hybrid Solutions one, though.
I live in south MS where humidity is over 80% most of the year. Carbon Method has, by far, been my best protection. My table say is stained form previous corrosion but I started my band saw and jointer on carbon method the day i gat them in hte shop. Both are amazingly clean. It is expensive and is not a one and done coating. You must reapply regularly.
I think humidity is an area where it shines!
I love this data thanks man! Been using paste wax since forever and now it is time for CM!
I have been using carbon method for about a year with great results. The reconditioning oil works better than anything I nave used to remove rust and get you started off with a pristine surface!
Yeah I've been impressed with all of their products
Thanks for sharing your testing and results. The suggestion of checking friction is a good idea as well as including the costs in the final summary as information and not impacting the results.
Testing different rust removing methods would be another test methodology worth looking at.
That's a great idea!
Thank you for the excellent review of protection methods! Very well done!! Following your results, I would say the, "Bang for your buck" winner is CRC 3-36!!! At $8.99 a bottle and results just slightly less than CM, you can't beat it!!! And at less than 10% of the CM price! Used your link to purchase CRC. Thanks again
Thank you sir!
You did a very thorough amount of testing there. Well done.
I've got an ancient old Craftsman jobsite saw that I've been using for several years now. It had a pretty rusty top when I bought it. I just sanded it as clean as I could and then laminated the top with Formica. No more rust. Nice and slippery. And it's a light gray color, so it's easy on the eyes and easy to see anything laying on the surface. The only part I have to look after is the cross slide grooves, and that just gets a little light oil now and then.
That's a new approach I haven't heard of before! Sounds smooth enough
@@EveningWoodworker Works Great! Easy to clean. Glue doesn't stick to it. My crosscut sled glides across it very smoothly. Wouldn't have it any other way.
Great Commercial
Very well thought out testing methods. I will definitely look into carbon method.
Interesting! It would have been cool if you had hooked up a kill-a-watt meter for the tests to see which surface had the least friction.
Great suggestion! That's something I'd definitely like to test, but didn't have time on this video.
Thanks for the great demo! Will you be doing a follow up video about how to clean the rust off once it's there?
Good idea! You're not the first to suggest that
@@EveningWoodworker I look forward to watching it when your done!
I use the harbor freight surface conditioning tool to remove rust from cast iron surfaces. It works great and the 120 grit pad even leaves a factory looking scratch pattern.
I’d like to see you try one more thing on your test Wing. What if you stuck a piece of zinc underneath to act as a sacrificial anode? Would that improve the performance of any of these products? It’s something I’ve been thinking of doing, but I’ve never gotten around to it.
Oh now that's an interesting idea... 🤔 May need to test that
Great vid, but a control would have been really nice
I'm using Odies oil as a preventative. Would enjoy seeing the difference, by your method, between it and Carbon Method
Terrific testing! Now we need you to do a video on how to remove rust/discoloration on the table saw top prior to applying the protective coating. 👍👍
That'll have to be the prequel video!
Great video. The key take away? Don't put wet things on your table saw. I use paste wax, but I re-apply it about every 10-20 hours of use. It's only 1-2 minutes of work. The frequent application might mean that the cost ends up being similar to Carbon Coat though.
Yes! There's not really anything that will last forever on it...water is brutal to cast iron! Paste wax can work if you apply it enough though
Been using LPS number one for over 40 years and it's absolutely fantastic I'll never use anything else
I may need to check that out...
Great test, interesting results. Since SC Johnson paste wax dried up I've been using a bowling alley wax I found on Amazon with good results. It's a blend of carnauba, other waxes, turpentine, and mineral spirits. Gives a real nice finish and the wood gliding across is very satisfying. One other test you could do is leaving a piece of green lumber laying on the table for a couple days, pretty common way to mess up a table saw top.
what's the name of the bowling alley wax if you don't mind sharing?
@@testingoyay4648 I just looked, it's the first result on Amazon, red and white can that just says "bowling alley wax" by BWC company. I've been pleased with it. Pretty sure the can will last me several years.
3-36 is great for garden tools and such. I think there should be a part 2 where you sand some wood next to it and attempt to measure dirt attraction. Then, use a scale to measure drag using the same weight and wood block from the wear test.
That's a good idea... I think if I were to use 3-36, I'd put a coat of Glidecote on top so it wasn't sticky.
Automotive carnuba hard paste wax. 3 good coats makes a big difference
Excellent test, thanks
I have always just used car wax, applied 3 or 4 times a year. My saw is vintage 1980 and no problems.
I feel like the older cast iron doesn't rust as easily as the newer stuff. The older stuff must be more seasoned.
When I worked at a machine shop when I was younger used WD-40.
Interesting tests. I’ve been using Glidecoat by itself and have had good results. Of course I don’t set any drink containers on the saw. Worst thing I had happen was when the wife brought me a grilled cheese sandwich for lunch one day. It was on a paper plate on top of one of those plastic plate holders with the chicken wire, cheese grater looking bottom, and set it on the saw. It sat there a couple of minutes, maybe before I noticed it. Didn’t see any marks when I moved it, but the next day there was a nice impression of the cheese grater bottom, about the size of a slice of bread.
Anyway, looks like the Glidecoat has gone up in price from what I remember when I last bought it. So between the CRC and the Carbon Coat, the CRC is about 8 times cheaper. I guess it would also depend on how many applications can be applied from each product and how long they last. The CRC looks to be an easier, quicker application and that’s a plus for me. I think I’d rather be able to do the quick spray and go, then periodically do the light sanding and respray than the Carbon Coat process and probably still end up sanding it on occasion. A lot comes down to whether your saw doubles as a workbench or is just used as a saw. The weather where you live also has an effect. If it’s high humidity, but not a huge shop, maybe get an air conditioner or a dehumidifier. I have about 450 square feet and have a small window unit, but I don’t run it all the time and all my cast iron tops are doing well.
You could try combining the CRC and Glidecote. I think the CRC isn't as slick as the other products
Definitely do more.
Thanks for this comparison, very helpful. Since most of my tools are hand-me-downs from a family member who passed, I have some pretty substantial rust from their time in storage. Any chance you are going to do a Part 2 so I can best get the rust off which has already accumulated? Thanks in advance!
Thanks! That would be a good video too!
I have used paste wax, boeshield, and exterior varnish, and the varnish was a mess. The other 2 did not work well. So I tried wipe on poly, as it is very thin, and it has turned out to be the best I have tried. Maybe the wiping on and wiping off drives it into the pores, but it has been great.
How frequently do you apply it? And does it stay smooth?
@@EveningWoodworker haven't had to reapply it, probably been at least a year since I tried it. You can hardly tell it is on there except for no spots on the ci.
I simply use a coat of paste wax, then buff then I use a cover made of mdf or plywood with felt glued to the bottom (the part that touches the tabletop). Once a year I use 3 or 4 0000 steel wool and prep to clean the saw tabletop then coat with paste wax.
Hmmm.. interesting. Do you get any rust from moisture in the felt?
@@EveningWoodworker I’m in Texas, no rust in 10 years. Before that 9.5 years in Madison Wisconsin, before that 3.5 years in Juneau, Alaska. No rust except in my old bones.
@@EveningWoodworker if I end up running a large amount of pine from HD through my saw I’ll clean up the top and rewaxed as needed. Just finished a remodel of my house that has taken about 10 years, working with treated pine to exotic woods. When in Alaska I also used the same technique on my bandsaw. As for my table saw with the top on my saw it doubles as a workbench for glue ups or setting my oscillating sander or grinder on. I cover the top of the top with sticky carpet and change it up when it gets too messy by peeling the carpet off and sticking new squares on it.
I live about 10 minutes from the beach in south florida, my garage door stays open about 8 hours a day. I put 4 coats of Carbon Method on it and it looks great still after 6 months. Totally worth it bc before it was a nightmare I have been wanting something for my hand tools though and I think now for that I'll chose the CR product. Ty
That's good to hear... the CRC did do well in these tests, but it may be good to add something additional to help it glide smoother especially on a hand plane or something the needs to slide a lot. Glidecote could work for that. But definitely try it both ways!
@@EveningWoodworker I use camellia oil during use
Good to know, I’m right up the road on the space coast and am always fighting rust. I guess I will give it a try
Hey Chris, you can apply Carbon Coat on your hand tools as well. It works great.
I wonder about cosmoline, especially for storage of the table saw.
Hmmm... that's a new one
Great video and comments section. Good info
I’m sticking with the Johnson Paste Wax until my ample supply runs out. I’ve had no issues on any of my cast iron.
Or you could sell your half used can for $100!
I use paste wax on my SawStop. I have a few rules I follow. One no metal on the surface, wood or plastic only. When done using the saw I have a piece of 3/4” MDO board that covers the surface. Not MDF, MDO is medium density overlay. The MDO is a couple of inches larger than the table saw. Yes, this sometimes is a pain, because every time I use the saw I have to remove the MDO. Small price to pay for an unmarked surface. This is in a home workshop.
I cover mine too but I just use a thick piece of cardboard.
I just happened to have the right size and something I could pick up all the tools laying on it. I either move it to a workbench or a pair of adjustable sawhorses.
That definitely would help. I put a piece of plywood on one side of mine to give me more workbench space and I'm sure it helps prevent some rust. Sounds similar to your solution...
Walmart in my area still sells Johnson paste wax.
Lucky!
Kudos on the uniqueness and ingenuity of your methodology, but you would need a controlled (ie, sterile) environment and at least one environment which duplicates the variations in shop temperature and humidity to really get an accurate read on the efficacy of each product. Impressive, nonetheless - keep up the good work!
Thanks! Unfortunately my budget for the video wasn't that big!
Thank You great information
I’ve been using (cringe warning) automotive paste wax for years, to those who worry about transfer to the wood have you ever prepared a car for painting, the wax is nearly impossible to remove and I’ve never had any known issues. Unfortunately my shop has been setting in storage for nearly 2 years most of the cast iron tops have minimal rust if at all one has a significant amount due to condensation and another due to abrasion while moving. One final note the newest polished cast iron is from 1972 and all are gray in color not silver.
which brand have you had the best experience with if you don't mind sharing?
Oh man you're a rebel!
@@testingoyay4648 Nu Finish, Turtle Wax as I remember, my shop has been in storage for nearly 2 years waiting for a new building
@@testingoyay4648 liquid Nu Finish and Turtle Wax as I remember I most commonly used
Could a ceramic coating, like for protecting automotive paint, be used? That stuff repels water and makes it difficult for things (like corrosive bird poop, and bug guts) to stick to the surface.
Possibly, but the only problem with that is all of the rubbing boards back and forth on it. So if you apply a hard spray coating, it can eventually come off in the wear areas just like the shellac example. Then you have an uneven surface.
I wish Fluid Film had been included. I've been using it for a few years with good success. I wonder how it would match up with the carbon product?
That's one I would definitely include in another test if I did it again.
Price, application frequency, and time spent stripping and reapplying should've been included in the score system
True, this video was just focused on performance. I could include those factors on the next one.
To be honest, Ill use paste wax. I dont mind coating it once a month. It is way cheaper than the carbon stuff.
Definitely cheaper as long as you keep it refreshed often
Interesting results from a very comprehensive set of tests. Are you going to use your test machine to remove the rust afterwards🤣
Haha! It would work well in only very small sections...
Could you do a crc coat and then a pate wax over it? I’ve always used paste wax and don’t know if I want to break the bank with the carbon method
Haven't tried that yet, but a lot of people do multiple layers of different products. Try it and see...
Just curious why you followed the mfg recommendations on all the products except the T-9? Applying another oil-based product on top of it, then rubbing it in, would surely change the characteristics of the protection of the base product.
I got the T-9/Glidecote recommendation from the Wood Whisperer a few years ago in one of his videos, but you have to wait until the T-9 is totally dry first. Then you apply the Glidecote. I don't think they really mix much.
I've been using paste wax for a few years now. On all my cast iron surfaces. And I have a strict no metal, and no liquids on any of those table tops. I have no rust, and I only reapply maybe twice a year. Application process is less than 10 minutes for all the tops, and lasts easily past the 6 months I give it. Just don't put cups, soda cans, or random tools on your cast iron tops and none of this should be a problem. I can say without a doubt, a little bit of vigilance goes an extraordinarily long way. Take care woodworkers and fabricators.
That's good advice! Vigilance is key with any method.
I think testing with plain water is not far enough. Try something that will mimic sweat.
Oh man, now I need to try and capture my sweat!?
@@EveningWoodworker haha! Yes!
a bit more expensive? It's A LOT more expensive!!!
Okay maybe "a bit" was a stretch! I was just trying to focus on performance though.
Johnsons paste wax has been discontinued???? That’s news!
Sadly yes
Any method is better then nothing. CM is nice but Price along with time to apply just doesnt add up in my book.
Yes, something is definitely better than nothing, and it seems like each product has a specialty... If you can afford CM, it is great, but if not, there are other options too
I used the carbon method and applied it correctly and I was less than impressed with the results
How many coats did you do?
Carbon Method is WAY too expensive. Just not worth it. Paste wax works great if you reapply every month or so - and it's cheap. CRC look interesting - I wonder if it is slick like a wax?
That's one thing I didn't test, but you could always add some Glidecote or wax on top
The only true rust prevention is use! LOL!
Haha!
When he said, “I built a machine,” I heard Jeremy Clarkson saying it shortly after in my head. “I built a MACHINE!”