Dyno test RC Nitro glow engine LRP ZR 32X Spec 4.1-engine #1
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
- 0:00 Intro & inspection
10:55 Safety
11:09 Break-in
15:33 Dyno prep
16:57 Dyno testing
19:53 Dyno results
20:03 Next video
Dyno test of the LRP ZR 32X Spec 4.1 from MakeitBuildit.co.uk
Displacement: 5.2cc (.32)
Ports: 7+1
Bore: 19.80mm
Stroke: 17.00mm
Glow plug type: Turbo
Claimed HP: 4.69
Claimed RPM: 35,300
Apparatus for break-in:
Hudy break-in bench from Wheelspinmodels.co.uk
Hipex R4 on-road manifold from Cosmopro.it (eBay)
Dynamite 053MR exhaust pipe from Power_Hobby (eBay)
Apparatus for dyno test:
OnStat racing nitro engine dyno from OnStatRacing.com
Hong nor EFRA 2062 exhaust and manifold from rc-willpower.com
Ultimate racing Compak clutch V3 B10 with Z13 13T clutch bell and bearings from rcpshop.co.uk
General equipment:
Bolle Tracker safety glasses from Screwfix.com
Clarke SED1 Safety ear defenders from Machinemart.co.uk
Megagripro cut resistant gloves from Megagrippro (eBay)
OS P3 glow plug from Evolutionmodels.co.uk
Optimix race SLV 25% nitro from rccarshop.co.uk
Arrowmax Silicone tube from Wheelspinmodels.co.uk
J Perkins Self-Priming Fuel Filter from Wheelspinmodels.co.uk
Prolux Easy glow ignitor from MakeitBuildit.co.uk
Prolux Glo-gun from align-trex.co.uk
Prolux LCD Temperature sensor from Wheelspinmodels.co.uk
Unbranded Infrared digital temp gun from trimmingshopgroup (eBay)
Team EDS screwdrivers, hex drivers and power tool tips from Wheelspinmodels.co.uk
Fastrax Power Start Universal Starter Box from Wheelspinmodels.co.uk
Various lipo batteries-Zeee, Turnigy and Radient from eBay
Clarke corded drill from Machinemart.co.uk (must have 2000RPM min for Hudy bench)
Various tools (pliers, cutters etc.) from Machinemart.co.uk
Foldable workbench from B&Q
This was super interesting. Thank you for taking the time for me this video 👍
What a great video!!! You have so many good stuff here.. good job
Thanks bud!
Very cool video and RC nitro engine and equipment !!!!
Cant wait to see more dyno tests! Subbed 👍
No more videos...😢
@@sakisSAVAGER sadly..
I wanna send my LRP 32 to you for break in and tuning 👍🏻 Very nice video 👌🏻
Very interesting, well done!
ahhh this is amazing man great work wish i know how to build one of these
We need more
2.5 only ? no way ! I have lrp .32 and .30 on my monster trucks. The power difference over other engines is ridiculous. I had to upgrade and reinforce everything to keep going with the engine 😂
Why did you cut the video after the Dino runs and what happened at the end there it sounds like the engine locked up?
I sounded like it over revved and threw a rod. Would make sense going by the ballistic rpm's, the fuel level in the tank and the abrupt stop.
That sudden stop at the end, it probably seized, or conrod blew up lol
Engine locked up!
Interesting, I bought a hand tuned Novarossi way back in the 80's that quoted 2.5hp that was a .21. Their figures were got with boat style pipes on %50 on a 8mm carb.. I had to use %45 otherwise it didn't have the runtime. It would be loosing a lot of power through the EFRA pipe, that would also be to small to get an efficient expansion chamber for that size.. This was before I understood how they achieved such crazy numbers. It was only through unusable RPM. The RPM was 20k up on the prior engine that was basically the same.
Awesome! No break-in needed straight to dyno?
So hald the advertised power then, is that common for them to be that under?
Interested in the comparison dyno i have the old lrp. 32
More videos please. Would love to see how force and novarossi engines compare!
Well ironically next videos to upload include the Force engines from 21 all the way to 36. Just the 36 to break-in. Coming soon!
@@rcenginedyno8251 when are you uploading it?
whered you get that dyno?? thats bad ass
How is go tha new lrp 4.1 carb any good????
What plug igniter is that with the trigger?
I am very confused. The formula to calculate HP is torque x RPM/5252. Therefore at peak torque (1.56 ft/lb) HP = 1.56 x 27200 / 5252 = 8.08 HP. I think his torque calculation is way off. You can calculate torque if you know the HP and RPM by T = HP x 5252/RPM. in this case we have at peak HP, torque = 2.16 x 5252/34800 = 0.326 ft/lb. Much much less that the reported peak torque of 1.56 ft/lbs. (we engineers prefer torque to be lb/ft, i. e. a pound force some radial distance in feet away from the centerline of the crank. but i digress).
Is your dyno actually calibrated? Or do you use it strictly to compare different engines on the same dyno?
Channel was short lived
omg wow.. i just got into nitro rc 2 weeks ago.. are you into 1:1 scale engines?
So, 2,16 instead of 4,69hp. That´s 46% of the claimed performance. How can one explain the difference ???
Can you do the OS R2104??
But you still need to tune enging top and bottom end
Oooh the 2-smoke seems really thin at full throttle. Weird hesitations thru the rpm range? ...on the other hand, maybe this is a budget engine and one can't expect much better performance? I haven't been doing any Nitro since 2011 or so, the last engine I ran was an RB WS7 III, that was a hoot.
The engines do behave a little differently on the Dyno than they do in a vehicle. It might be because of the load differences allowing quicker and higher RPMs on the Dyno, I couldn't say for certain.
@@rcenginedyno8251 Good points, the dyno is a bit of a black mystery box for us, we have no idea of the curve or steps it might apply resistance, then it just integrate/interpolate the data to spit out the results in a smooth graph.
My guess is his reported torque is in the wrong units. Imagine this engine producing a force of over 1.5 lbs out a foot away from the centerline of the crank. Impossible! This engine has a stroke of 1.7 cm, or .0558 feet. This means the distance from the crank centerline to the rod journal is half this or .0279 ft. So if you have force of 1.56 lb at a foot - to produce this you need a force at the rod journal of 1.56 x (1/.0279) = 55.94 lb. Maybe the crank/rod/piston can take this, but it seems unlikely to me.
Lrp states like 4.6hp
What are they doing 2 at a time?
Awesome stuff👍Do you have more engines to compare?
Coming soon, there will be a leaderboard and there are more than 20 engines that I'm planning to test over the next few months! Reds, Force, FX, OS, Argus, Alpha, VS, LRP, HPI.....
@@rcenginedyno8251 nice!!! Looking forward to see it. Maybe also compare stock engines to modified ones. Saw you just started your channel. I will name your channel in my next video. And hopefully this will ensure more subscribers. Did you make the dyno yourself?
@@kings-racing appreciate the call out. You can get the dyno from Onstatracing.com. Will absolutely try a modded vs stock engine, see what a difference it makes!
@@rcenginedyno8251 👍. nice!! And maybe test different feul aswell. I did a test between 25 & 12%, and that was a huge difference in power.
You can do so much with that dyno. Awesome stuff 👍
Did you blow it up at the end?!
Hi. What sort of torque absorber is that? magnetic brake/dynamo. Did you make it yourself
Hi Phantom21, you can buy the Dyno from Onstatracing.com. Email them if you're interested, it is a great piece of engineering. You can see all the items I'm using in the video description.
Engine seized after 3-rd run?
Tge temp needs to stay a constant temp during break end
There are many different views on break-in methods, and the do's and don'ts. I will likely do an episode on that as over my 20 years working with nitro engines, I'm still learning!
Yep your right there is. Many ways but stick with the one with the most successful results. The way 98% of the pros do it. You can. Prematurely wear out a engine the wrong way . I heat the engine up to 220 start it. Then put the heater head on it off and on I'll apply heat if it drops to low. A good heat gun does the trick. Idle 2 tanks the drive figure 8 for 5 tanks. Then slowly start the tuning process on the street. Getting bottom end needle right where I want it Snappy the top end needle slowly a d gradually
In my opinion with over 20 years of nitro experience, that was way too many RPM's much too quickly during the break in process. But there's 50 ways to skin a cat, or whatever they say.
So how on earth did they get 4.69PS? Pure nitromethane?
Could be a different dyno, could be a higher nitromethane content, I couldn't say. OnStatracing managed to get 3.5hp with 55% nitromethane on a 3.5cc (.21) drag engine.
What's your ebay listing?
I have a few more engines to test, once I'm done I will be putting them on eBay. Keep an eye out for LRP ZR 32 4.1 dyno tested!
Never break in a glow engine without load...
It’s a Hudy unit, and uses a prop.
That big spinning wheel looked like "load" to me...
❤🎉😮😊ไฟไฟไฟแอด์
What dyno is that?
He told ya (3) times in the video..
Also in the description…
@@littlemotor414 that didnt answer the question, not being smartass, just asked but thanks you✌🏽got it.
@@nunu4692 in the amount of time that it took for you to be a lazy fuck; you could’ve gotten your answer the way 99% of us did.
Well that engine won’t ladt last after that little break in session. Thats as bad if not worse than traxxas break in methods. Cool dyno though.
Use a heat gun to remove a Ventura
ua-cam.com/video/4W6F3Ha_saY/v-deo.htmlsi=-ElBIt0oJO__UgUu
Do you still have your dyno? So, to not destroy an engine you need to pull the engineplate!!!! Hope to see some content from you again.
i can't understand why you have just stripped down a brand new engine ???
This version of the engine was just released at the time this video was made so he was looking at what new features it has and stuff. Another reason to disassemble a brand new engine is to check for any factory defects. Normally, you won’t find any issues, but these LRP engines are very well known for having horrendous machining on the sleeve that could completely ruin the engine before you even finish breaking it in so everyone always takes them apart before they run them to check the sleeve. A lot of times, people will take a diamond file or something like that to smooth out the edges of the ports since they usually have some burrs that the piston will catch on and break off and then you’ll have loose pieces of metal floating around in the engine while it’s running and rough edges that the piston is going to run against and get scratched
very hard time believing that LRP would rate Their motor that far off for one and two i have ran more engine dyno tunes pulls and sorry but NO WAY NOT A CHANCE was that motor even close to being under a load listen too the free 38,000RPM spin LRP also say never back in a new motor outside of a truck that poor nitro didn't even have the load of free spinning tires. quick question just how many nitro's have been blown up on that LOL dyno system ( not sure if i would call that a dyno). LRP states that no wide open pulls till around 10-12 tanks. what happened to the driving the truck for 8 full tanks never letting it run out of fuel and NEVER more than 2 second quick less than 3/4 throttle.. guessing thats why video stopped motor locked up..
And one more thing like I said I'm sure you know a lot more than me but why do you keep saying LRP states LRP states this LRP states that if you know so much which I'm sure you do you should be saying this is what I say this is what I know or what you know is what I meant I was not talking about myself anyway yeah I was just curious why do you say LRP LRP LRP what they say what they say what they say That's hearsay you didn't come up with that idea LRP did and who knows that their manual is right which I said I studied it and a lot of people say it's wrong including me throw it away and I'm sorry I don't take this the wrong way I woke up in a bad mood this morning not meaning to take it out on you I just saw this comment and it didn't sound right to me so I responded but if you need to bash back that's okay if you took this is me bashing you which I hope you don't cuz that's not what I was doing I was just stating experience I have this exact motor and have had with a few of these exact motors or engines should I say but yeah I hope you have a good Saturday morning and I'm sorry if I pissed you off for upset you any , that's not what I'm here for.
Sincerely Cory
Now that I've watched the video I'm kind of okay with you bashing because he did some stuff wrong in my opinion definitely but going by the manual would also be wrong I would not break that engine in any sort of way close to the how he did it I would not run it at no load like that I mean that Dino cell that he has can put plenty of load on that engine he just does not have it set up properly obviously and overrode it I have done that a few times and demolished pistons never broke Conrad but of demolished piston and it's all because of improper tuning improper breaking and that's where I learn my lessons so you're right in a lot of what you said like I said you're a lot more knowledgeable about me I just wanted to let you know about my opinion on the LRP manual that's all so no hate like I said just my own opinion information have a good day.
🆒 video, ℹ️’Ⓜ️ the KING 👑 of LRP engines cause ℹ️ have 2️⃣0️⃣ extra or spare BIG block engines & 🟦 is better 🤑👍🏼🪛🏁
you had it so lean it almost died...
This is not a engine to brake that show ed in this vifeo thats faar wrong
How to successfully destroy an engine:)
interesting trusty facts ,but they claim more for commercial reasons , they lie .
IM GONNA REPEAT IM PRETTY SURE MY ZR 32 SPEC IS FAR STRONGER THAN THIS ENGINE AND AN EXPERIENCED DRIVER HEAR THAT THIS ENGINE HAVE MORE CAPABILITY FOR MORE POWER
Definitely going to read differently than an X-Dyno; which is “The Standard”…. Now-that being said…. I haven’t seen a manufacturers numbers that have NOT been grossly inflated.