Chainsaw Total Teardown and Rebuild - Pt 1 of 2
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- Ever wondered what would happen if you started taking a chainsaw apart - and then just kept going!?
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Recently stuck chainsaw starts up and runs: ".... soo, rebuild's basically over, guys ....." 😁
I had a second hand Husky 61, paid 325 for it in 1992 ran all day every day. The serial number showed it was from 1979. Put a 24in bar on it and slabbed Oak boards, felled so many trees and fed my wood burner. Had it pinched few years back and miss it more than many people. Cheers
Should read "Paid £25 for it" and not stolen.
Shades of Mustie1
An enjoyable introduction to what makes things tick.
When taking apart something that might spring off under the bench on the other side of the room, try putting the parts inside a clear plastic bag, most of the time you’ll find the springy bits inside the bag.👍👍
... and, please wear eye protection
And use the right tool, max. Pliers aren't the right tool for spring clips. We love you all the same.
I'm surprised you never mentioned the crankshaft oil seals. They are crucial on a two-stroke and can't be great after 20+ years. Nice job anyway, keep up the good work.
absolutely, at 2 or 3 decades old even if not worn out they become hard and best replaced as movement from rebuild can be enough for them not work well again.
Most of machines I get with bog down and power issues and owners spent out on carb kits, carbs, fuel tank pipes and pickups with no results all are crankcase sealing issue at some level .
I'm sure we see this one up and running again as max pretty motivated in keeping the old gems operating ...
Yup, and there was no need to split the crankcase. Without doing seals on an old saw like that from the 80's you are just asking for trouble. I worked on these back when they were state of the art in a saw shop.
'it can't be that complicated' - video 1 of 2 suggests it _might_ be haha. Famous last words and all that
I do love my Husqvarnas I've rebuilt 30 or so for my collection, I have 10 of the 2 series of which the 61's are part of.
Your chain was certainly to tight, some of the blueing on the bar ie the edge is the heat treatment for hardening.
The way we took the crankshaft nuts off was to use a special tool that screwed into the spark plug hole and locked the engine ,they were made out of a nylon material. Stihl chainsaws were the main machines we did. Using a tool to lock the fan often ends in fan blades sheering off.
Very inspirational! My ancient chainsaw is also well overdue for a rebuild. Thanks Max.
LOL I heard that spring hit somewhere
Fantastic entertainment, that is one very well made machine to have so little wear on the piston and bore after all those years. Your right, rebuild and it's going to last many more years. Well done, looking forward to part two and thanks for sharing.
Thumper that was great, the name of the game, is trying to remember not to forget, sòoò, I hope you have your parts quick, from Steve near Chester England 🇬🇧 where the Roman's once lived.
61 is one of my favourite older saws, lovely deep sound on them, grunty you might say
Can't wait for Part two ! I really enjoy seeing this kind of video. I believe that it's by doing such videos that we slowly but steadily fill up a new Library of Alexendria of knowledge accessible to anyone at any time. Perhaps in 20-30 odd years, someone might watch your video to get an idea how this thing dismantles ^^
Keep it up and cheers from Belgium !
This is a case in point. ''The whole is more than the sum of its parts'' .
Excellent video, Max. Thank you.
Never seen a chainsaw strip down before. Thanks for doing that for us.
Great content, thanks Max
Thank you patreons 👍
a tip .. to prevent the pressure washer pinging small parts into next week , obtain a supermarket trolley ( added bonus is the parts can be left to drip-dry in the trolley )
"obtain"
Hello Max,
Interesting video... I have not seen a chainsaw in bits... See you in part 2.
Cheers.
Paul,,
I had another tab open on Ali Express looking at ultrasonic cleaners when I started watching this. I've got 2 California Go Peds on a bench that haven't been used for well over a decade, a cleaner will be useful to have before I get to grips with them.
Nice job, I was waiting for you to bring on the toothbrush. Great video too.
Got a 181 husky from 1982 never been rebuilt well maintained cost me a carb kit air filters fuel lines and filters and 2 plugs some chains still original bar 20 inches main thing is to keep it in order and clean
I hope you'll change the crank bearings and seals at the point you're at take care be safe
Any updates on Project Awesome? Really been missing that series
Very interesting and informative video Max. Looking forward to part 2. 👍🏻👌🏻
Brilliant video
Very interesting video Max looking forward to seeing the next one on reassembling and starting 👍
I wish I had the confidence to do this with mine, but I'd just know it wouldn't go back together!
I ve only just learned to not take things apart that are not broken...then watching this almost had me stripping the chainsaw..for no real reason
👍👍👍
Great video as usual
my favourite type of video
Had a 61 for years great saw. The only time it let me down was when it bounced out of the back of the truck at 65kph and -30 cracked the plastic fuel tank. Back to work the next day though.
It looks like that is a roller type bar, check the roller is free and lubed! I think you have run short of bar oil due to the muck in the oil tank and the bar has overheated. Good video!
Phil
Literally didn’t know a thing about engines an started taking apart a strimmer and my husqvarna chainsaw when they had some issues. Learned a million things on how they work. Got the strimmer working but the husky keeps over revving an moving when idle, can’t seem to tweak the air, fuel thing enough to get it to stop. Been sat there for 6 months now, might have to give it another go as I loved that saw.
Might just be the throttle stop? There is a screw on mine which controls the tickover.
My 2nd chainsaw (cos I broke the first trying to get it running) was utterly packed with gunky sawdust, which for a small cheap saw sold at Lidl or Aldi (Gardenline, forget whose brand that is) was rather impressive, they used the hell out of it before taking it back with "It dun't werk!!!" as an excuse, was clogged to the hilt, even the carburettor had sawdust in it somehow, but much brake cleaner and brushing and it cleaned up well, and aside from the crap tool-less chain tensioner that loosens itself causing the chain to spit off occasionally, it's been a reasonably good for a home-use light-duty saw... :)
Einhell??some of their saws have toolless tensioners, but had to replace mine with normal bolts after a while.
Before you put the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner, degrease them with a good cleaning agent (I use White Spirit usually), this will allow the ultrasonic cleaner to work more efficiently, best regards
best tool ive ever found for cleaning a chainsaw is a toothbrush
Second hand dishwasher. 60 degrees Celsius with water spray huge capacity. I should point out not to use the one in the kitchen, reat of the family will complain of an oily taste on their dinner plates.
As for the sword, it's good to remove any burnish. The lubed tracks should have a filed or honed finish to grip the oil.
My Sthill h70 was recently resurrected, needed a new recoil spring. It now works perfectly, but it costs a fortune to run, but it rips trough large diameter wood with comparative ease. Had it for over forty years, it is getting a bit heavy for me now, I'm and old guy now.
Can't be too old, my old chainsaw pre-dates 99% of all the safety devices. it's just a motor connected to a saw bar. Now i've seen you strip yours down I might do it to mine. Not sure if i'll ever use it to cut a tree down, but it would be nice to see it restored.
Funny, I was doing some maintenance on an old stihl saw today and observed the same thing on the carburetor too. Was news to me as well
A trick I've seen used for working on crankshaft bolts etc is to fill the cylinder with rope through the plughole. That locks the piston without risk of damage.
That works fine but as an easy upgrade you can get a cheap plastic tool from Amazon or Ebay that you insert in through the spark plug hole which blocks the piston movement
It’s a shame you didn’t do a before and after weighing to see how much sawdust and built up grease you removed! Looks great, can’t wait for pt2
Hi Max, I reckon you could upgrade the engine to a Celica model quite simply. Loads of videos on You Tube only takes about 9 years.
lol , i didn't see a mini at all during this episode
Flippy bonnet and aircon or is that a bit too much for a chainsaw, a few a extra brackets wouldn't go amiss though?
To me your chain looks a bit too tight in the beginning of the video. I think after you've cleaned the cooling surfaces of the engine and made sure every gasket gets replaced so the engine does not draw air or loses compression you're good to go. It's nice seeing people take pride in repairing their equipment. Too many things get thrown away. Cheers from Germany (although I like Stihl saws better haha)
With you on the stihls. 021 024 036. All old but still in use.
Both companies New models are loosing quality of build..
Hi max I'm of German descent but prefer Husqvarna to Stihl, Used a lot of brands, Dolmar comes in second.
I used to spend hours cleaning out and servicing my dad's saws for him. I miss the smell of them
👍
Many good ideas here.
In a nearby town from here they run a repair cafe every town fair day for free. Any item that has stopped working.
Great way to give back what you have received.
You guys are performing a similar service.
It is the way I perceive that good socialism works.
I mean it's definitely not for profit and it's definitely social.
Late 70s early 80s is possibly the age of that chainsaw.
Do you by any chance watch Buckin' Billy Ray on YT? Love that guy, knows so much about falling trees, chainsaws and axe's, and has so bloody many! Mainly McCollough's from like the 70's lol.
I have done yes, he certainly knows his stuff!
Incredibly complex little machine!
I use a grocery cart to wash my parts in. And a screen on my wheelbarrow.
Cracking saws Max I've got a very similar one myself, I'm a sthil tech run a husky, what does that tell you . I take the clutch off with a drift, short sharp shock and it's off, left hand thread indeed 👍nice work, definitely a bit tight on the chain but if the kink was in the bar for a while as soon as it heats up it was slackenening off no doubt
Amazing if we're doing that I'd of broken a casting for shore
Max, it's probably too late and you've fixed it but if not you should replace the crank seals. They're right there now it's apart. That piston looked ok but you need to hone the cylinder a little before replacing so that the new rings seal.
Your chain appeared too tight, could have caused the overheating very easily once the bar was bent.
Meteor piston is good, good luck with the rebuilt hope that old one lives to fight on.
You might as well change the crank bearings and seals seeing as though you stripped it down thus far. Apart from that, yet another great 😃 video
Last year I needed a new bar and chain plus sprocket for the Stihl I purchased new in 1994, as I was goin g to have to wait for the parts I purchased a Hyundai chainsaw for only slightly more than the stihl parts were costing I was not expecting to much but to my surprise it is a remarkably good saw, runs well easy to start well balanced with a bigger engine than the stihl for the same length bar (20"). In the early 70's I worked for a watchmaker, on one occasion I put a clock into the ultrasonic cleaner and left it on while we went for lunch when I got back an hour later the machine had eaten holes in the brass gears, the cleaner did not use water instead it was filled with a toluene based liquid which was very good at degreasing and when the fluid was to dirty for clocks and watches I would take it home and use it for engine cleaning. I have not tried it but I expect that diesel or paraffin would work in an ultrasonic cleaner, I recently purchased a cheap Chinese unit so I will give that a go at some point, just not turn the heater on. The Swiss unit we used back then did not have a heater but after half an hour or so the cleaning solution got quite warm, enough for the fume to make me ill enough to quit the job.
I think biological powder, not liquid would work better.
I don’t know much about chainsaws ( I have a STIHL MS170 ) which is why I’m watching this, but I do know about washing powder 😂 thank you Max
Those 61's are generally good saws, don't ever put anything on the flywheel fins, if you want to take the flywheel and clutch off you can fill the cylinder with thin rope (make sure it doesn't catch in the cylinder ports) or a plastic piston stop, never use a metal one. When you want to check the piston for damage, take the muffler off and look inside the exhaust port, when a saw seizes this is generally the side that suffers the damage. Meteor is considered the best aftermarket parts for c/saws, hone the cylinder before you install the new piston, the piston should come with a Caber piston ring (the best aftermarket ring), the fellow in Greece is considered a good supplier, I have bought parts from him before. You are that far into the saw you may as well replace the crank bearings (6202 bearings iirc) and seals, as you say it hasn't had work done to that extent before, it's just as easy for me to replace bearings /seals when I rebuild a saw, that way you don't have to tear it down again if they fail.
*surrounded by thousands of husqvarna engine parts*
I think that's as much as I'm going to dismantle it...
Tip you put a piece of rope / cord in the cylinder to lock it up to undo the crank nuts
replace the sporket whislst you can - a fair old bit of wear from what you showed.
Just in from a day of milling timber with my husky 455 on a Alaskan sawmill hopefully I won't have to refer to this video any time soon. How do you know if your over heating the saw? I had that in the back of my mind because milling is hard on a saw.
Pull the chain round the bar from the saw to the top on the top run of the bar. Never pull it back, if it sticks you’ll lacerate your finger tips very nicely. Even a blunt chain will have a few sharp rakes and Sod’s law sez you’ll cop one.
8:12 theres the little wire linkage falling out into the oily mess on the bench. Then at 8:44 its vanished and the bench has been wiped off. I recon you lost it there Max could be literally anywhere at that point. Unless of course you spotted it and put it aside for safe keeping. So safe it remains lost just like most things that get put away for safe keeping that are never to be seen again forever and ever.
I had a tyre fitter attempt to remove the wheel from a Mitsubishi Canter 7.5t - he actually manager to rip the stud out from the hub before he realised they were left hand thread.
I have a Bedford AWD 7.5t horse box and that has left hand thread wheel studs on one side. I always check that the tyre fitters are aware of this before they start attacking it with a six foot breaker bar!
You should have weighed it before and after. It would have been interesting to see how much muck was on it. :) I give my saws a deep clean once a year or so.
Sealing rings on the piston, can those move freely and or have signs of wear out?
Oh by the way - are the sealing on the crankshaft ok? A 2 stroke needs pressure to work.
Respect ....
Max do you ever have trouble putting anything back together?
I've got a tenner that says the new piston comes without the spring that took flight accross the workshop, sorry I mean,
'Centre of Excellence.'
The piston kits come with piston pin, circlips and piston ring/s.
one of the few silver linings to ex girlfriends is that the toothbrushes they leave behind come in quite handy!
9:50 tbh, yea, terrible idea. Remove spark plug, stuff some nylon rope in the cylinder. This blocks the movement of the piston without risk of breaking anything.
Have you greased the sprocket at the end of the bar?
you know these old machines were made to be fixed where new ones do not even have drain plug, oil dirty,throw it away and get a new one!
Those Oregon bars often have a little oiler hole near the tip where the bearings are. They require a few drops of bar oil to be dripped over the hole and then the chain spun by hand so the bearings will take in the oil. They can run for a long time without doing this, especially if they are new but it is a good idea to lube them from time to time. Not all bars have this, some are sealed up, so you would have to check.
Edit: that bend in the bar is more than enough to cause serious problems. Good thing it is a replaceable part
Grease, grease is used in that hole, should be done every time you use the saw.
How do Zil do?
I just stripped and cleaned my chainsaw couple of weeks ago as I had a fuel and oil leak
Hiya Max
crankcase seals !! then watch tinmans youtube he does a 61, check squish and consider cylinder gasket delete to raise compression also enlargen the exhaust pipe to 19mm id (lets it shift more air mix.)
The worse noise in the world when a man removes a clip and you can hear it land somewhere in the work shop this has happened many times and i always find them months later
Thank God for electric chain saws.
Crank bearings and seals 🤔
'chainsaw' is a UA-cam comments trigger word....................!
Yep!
i have a question. why are some chainsaws so lightweight, and where have they changed?
Mostly it's less metal and more plastic - as with many tools!
@@maximusironthumper okk, so the internal structure of the chainsaw doesn't change ,right?could it be that some of the internal structures have become a little smaller?🧐
Off topic. My klr650 runs, but doesn't have any lights (except park lights). I've checked the fuses (ok). Any hints on a fix?
On my bike the key turns on the lights as well as the ignition, so if it's no lights at all (no indicators, brake or headlight) my guess would be a faulty ignition switch.
@@maximusironthumper Cheers for the suggestion, but that bit is new ( as it was nicked/recovered) and I've also checked it with a multimeter. I'll carry on banging my head against a wall.
I'd also change the drive sprocket.. too much wear for my liking. A new one will give you far better drive to your chain and run truer.
I've just watched some more.. if you're stripping it that far.. change the crank seals, they're probably crusty and leaking crank pressure/vacuum and new ones will help your carb supply correct fuel mix.
what here wondering, if you'll paint it
Hi ! I could not make out the name of the forum.
chain looked too tight, possibly from the damage to the bar?
You have lost that circlip, the circlip fairies will have hidden it and you won't find it until you have bought another one
Carburettors in Ireland I will check it out , could we still ?compete with the Chinese
I have 2 huskies. 365 has an Irish Lotson carb made in Tralee. 385 has a Chinese Walbro. In 20years and hundreds of tons both of them still run perfectly.
@@philhawley1219 still in business now called tillotson carbs
"Can't be that complicated."
That's the same as mentioning the "Q" word in the middle of a night shift on a maternity ward.
:D
Never thought to use soap and water in the ultrasonic before , have to give it a try , I use vinegar and bi-carb thanks for the tip .
Vinegar + "bi-carb" doesn't sound right. Sodium bicarbonate ("bi-carb") is alkaline, and one of its principal uses is to neutalize acids. So adding it to vinegar (an acid) will just reduce the cleaning ability of the vinegar. [Or conversely, if you added a huge amount, the vinegar would reduce the cleaning ability of the sodium bicarbonate.]
@@davidhaywood8029 Iv used vinegar and bicarbonate to clean oil and grease off of oven parts before. Works a treat. Didn’t realise about the neutralising thing though. It does fizz as it works though so maybe that’s part of the reason it cleans? Give it a go on an old baking tray or the glass on an oven door. Puts modern wonder cleaners to shame.
@@mopedmarathon The fizzing is the acid (vinegar) & base (sodium bicarbonate) reacting and producing carbon dioxide. Usually you'd use either vinegar as a mild/safe acidic cleaner OR sodium bicarbonate as a mild/safe alkaline cleaner. From a chemistry perspective straight vinegar should work better in ultrasonic cleaners than your vinegar/bicarb mix (might be different if you were manually scrubbing a part, of course, in which case the sodium bicarbonate would be acting as an abrasive).
Not so wise to rev it cold like that.
The piston must expand to fill the cylinder first or the tiny angle a cold piston allows can begin to wear the skirts and you have a downward spiral of wear about to happen.
I've a similar machine to this prob a Chinese knock off Pro plus...one thing that is strange there is no fuel pump ..is this right ???
Generally there is a diaphram pump in the carburettor
@@jackinthegreen1000 I mean the primer before you pull start it...for the life of me I can't see it...but it starts
Some saws come with a primer bulb and some don't.
Hey Max, try a carb cleaner bath in the ultrasonic cleaner, might be better than the old Ariel!!!
Ta.
Its called Arbtalk.
You’ll definitely need to change the sprocket. It should be changed every 3 chains or so. A worn sprocket will wear the bottom on the drive links and drastically shorten the life of a chain.