Makesupply Leather This is a great idea, if you have a drill press you can use your stitching chisels the same way, by inserting into the drill press chuck.👍
*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*
I think this would be great for someone in an apartment or wanting to work while their house is sleeping so it quite. I know I hate working night shift and coming home with energy, motivation and cant hammer away
That EXACTLY what I thought as soon as I heard it. I have an art studio inside of an apartment building with thin walls and hammering after 8pm just seems super rude. This look absolutely perfect for that.
This was my thought too. I’m a night owl and I live in an apartment. I’m always hindered in my leather projects by needing to do my hammering during the day.
@@dawgyv72 have a look on amazon or aliexpress for "leather stitching pliers", it's a kind of lesser known tool I think. I ordered a set because I have a similar issue. I work during the day and can only do leather work at night so they should solve the problem, worth a look if noise in an issue.
Exactly why I am researching my options. I am in a condo connected to my neighbors and they tend to go to bed around 9pm. I usually don't sleep until midnight or 1am myself so I have a lot of wasted time I could be working on orders and side projects.
I've just started leatherworking, and am having real trouble getting straight lines on the reverse side of the leather. Add to that the noise I'm making in an upstairs flat......Might have to seriously consider getting one of these.....
Swapping out the tools is definitely gonna be a PITA. I'm thinking maybe just use it for the straight runs and manually pop in the few holes for the corners. You could even cut a groove on both sides without having to worry about missing the groove on the inside.
I think the press has lots of advantages... consistent straight punched holes, quiet - no more banging and accuracy. I find that when hand punching the holes it only takes a very slight angle variation to get the back holes out of line. I personally wouldn't use the 2 prong punch in the press and would do those corners manually but if you do want to change then I'm sure using the chuck key isn't necessary and hand tight would be enough. The only other way to get consistent holes on both sides would be to use pricking pliers.
My hands have started to hurt after using the mallet & chisel to punch leather, so I haven't done it in a while. I was really interested after running across this video and bought a cheaper version of this to try out. I definitely want to upgrade to the better version, but am really loving the ease of use that this style of punching allows. I use a single 1mm hole punch, not a chisel-tip, over a paper template, which makes a very nice stitching line for thicker thread. To speed the process, I found that by closing the space between the punch and the leather to 1/4 inch or less made it easy to quickly line up the hole, punch, align, punch, align, punch, align, punch, etc., at about the speed it takes to read. It's made leatherworking fun again! Thanks so much for sharing. Edit - someone asked where to find a 1mm hole punch - I found mine as part of a set on amazon. Good luck and have fun!
you need to remove the ball off the handle, go to a hardware store and buy a 24'' long 1/2'' steel pipe insert the handle into the pipe and it will give you leverage . pick up a 2x6 board and a few bolts along with a 6'' clamp. screw the machine to the 2x6 and now you can use the clamp to secure it to the table with out putting holes in it.
I am using a 1 ton arbor press that also takes all my tools. It came with hole and screw all preinstalled. The big pro is it goes through 3 layers of the thickest leather like nothing, and looks perfect. And - I live in a flat and have to keep the hammering to a minimum. The press also sets rivets, buttons, cuts out any shapes, punches all my holes, stamps my leather etc. It is my ONE tool.
@@Elbowjom I don't actually know the model my guess is it's Chinese a rebuild of an old German model. Got it off eBay. It's black with big red numbers on it, very distinctive. Mine is No 1. The larger they get, the higher the number.
Hello, is it possible to tell if you can put all the accessories on an arbor press ? Can you buy them separately and if so what did you buy please . Thanks
I think another benefit, (besides the quietness) is that punching holes through really thick leather might come out straighter, I tend to get less vertical the thicker the leather is, I can also see the down side of have this extra machine that takes up space, and to be used effectively I think it's made to be screwed down to the table
Im definitely getting one just for my round edge tools. Every time i go through multiple layers it moves and doesnt cut the round corner on the bottom layer. This should take care of that
While I'm a traditionalist when it comes to many things, I can see the value in a product like this under certain circumstances. I'm a night owl and my wife prefers to go to bed early. I'm limited in what I can do while she is sleeping, so something like this would come in handy during those times. Other than that, I like throwing a hammer down on chisels, so it's definitely not something I'd use exclusively. One other note, you can adjust the handle throw so you don't have as much arm motion.
I think it would be more useful for thicker projects especially with multiple layers to insure that it goes perfectly straight up and down. For thinner projects where it isn't much of a problem to make your holes perpendicular, I think I'd stick to my maul. Great video, thanks.
Also could have 3 pre setup next to eachother with a 5 a 2 and a 1 or whatever combo.. Then no need to switch out anything and can just step over when needed
I use an $80 table top drill press when I need to work quietly. It does the same thing but can also be used to drill holes, Use as a drum sander or burnisher.
How has your experience been with the main shaft? I bought a very similar tool (the only difference is the color, I think), but after some use the main shaft started to bend. It even came off once, even though I tightened the bolt. My feeling is that the metal is made of cheap grade. Otherwise, I found the the machine better at churning out straighter lines than my bare hands. Thx for the video mate
Thank you for this video. I purchased an upgraded version of this same machine with heating elements, so I have an option to hot brand leather or do gold foil and have a chuck drill installed when working with pricking irons. I had issues with the machine being unstable and didn't have the luxury of destroying my desk by permanently securing it to it because my apartment is too small, but I secured it to a cheap meat-cutting wooden board with a greater surface that I simply put on the table when working with it. Now here comes another problem with this tool - it comes with a very low-quality drill chuck so I replaced it with a self-securing drill chuck. No other tools are needed and it's quicker to replace different tools. There is a third problem as well and that is - working with non-round tools like many pricking irons are. Drill chuck will simply not hold it properly, it will go sideways, and next to doing bad work you can also destroy your tools. I overcame this by buying an industrial rubber foot (the standard one for furniture is not strong enough for this) with installed M10 or M12 bolts. I simply put it in the drill chuck and manually hold the pricking iron with my left hand while pressing with my right hand. This is not an out-of-the-box solution but it is easy and cheap to upgrade it by yourself with just a little bit of effort and for just a little bit of money get a machine that really makes difference.
I'm looking into getting this machine. As far as changing our the number of prongs, I have a set that has one handle and you just screw in the tips into the handle. So, once the handle installed int he chuck, just unscrew the 6 prong and replace it with the 2 prong. It will make switching the number of prongs much faster. Like this one: tandyleather.com/collections/tools/products/diamond-hole-chisel-set
@@brendanmccreesh5112 yes, I did get this and was very disappointed. It only has one screw that holds the chuck or the bit in and as a result, it makes the check/bit Cantor enough that it doesn’t press straight down. I tried wedging some thing on the opposite side to help straighten it out, one individual posted, said that he fixed it because he’s a machinist, but he didn’t say how. I thought about taking it to a machinist and having a second screw hole tapped on the other side in order to straighten it out, or taking it to a welder and having them weld the chuck in so it is straight doesn’t move and can’t be removed. But instead, I wound up going to Tandy and buying one of their machines which I’m a lot more happy with.
Filming and trying to use it at the same time is frustrating. You say getting around the corner wasn’t easy but it looked so obvious that all you cared for was the camera angle and not about properly using the tool. Move the camera when you can’t properly use tools if not don’t do reviews complaining about shit that wouldn’t have been a issue with no camera
You have a bolt on each side of the ram, they are a "Positive Stop". The handle should stop at parallel to the table for max. leverage. Move the head up or down on the post for depth of punch. A punch pad similar to tire rubber duct taped to the base plate. A guide bar of 1/8 thick by 1" wide Steel with adjustment slots at each end to set distance from punch to edge of work peace. Drill and tap 1/4 x 20 the base plate for the guide bar. A flat metal plate over the guide bar located very near the stitch chisel to hold down the leather when lifting the chisel. This too will be bolted down and shimmed to proper height for your work peace. Do as much as possible with out changing tools. This will also work for round punches but with a stripper plat with a hole. Think about the time spent lining up the punch, pick up the hammer, bash the punch, put down the hammer, pry the punch out of the leather, repeat. The press is very efficient way to work.
I am sure it would be easy to swap the chuck with a keyless chuck and save loosing or picking up the key every time....thanks for the video i am getting one.
Have you tried it for ready rivets and snaps? I have a cheapo harbor freight press that I drilled the shaft to hold tools (never thought of the drill chuck). Snaps and ready rivets are its prime use.. These require a nice even squish or you get a mess
Thanks for showing us your thoughts on it. I was surprised that you didn't start from the center and work outwards, also that you didn't have it clamped to something. Since you do have it, I hope you find more good uses for it.
This seems such a great tool which would enhance the appearance quality of the item, i have problem in punching when sometimes i don’t perfectly punch the wholes 100% vertically so after all this small tiny issue affects the end result, i would love to know your feedback after long time you spend it with that tool. Thank you in advance for your helpful content ❤
Thank you for the informations I want to modificat my piece so i can to punch my leather on thikness around 10mm Will it work ? Please tell me What do you think ?
hey I know this is an older video but how would you say the durability of the machine is after a lot of uses? like is the back post a thin hollow metal or solid?
If anyone didn't already offer this, try only making dimples with your two-prong, by hand. Whenever you get to the straight part again, put it back under the press. Once all your straight stretches are done, you can switch to the two prong, one time, and do all the corners and difficult parts.
Attach the press to a sturdy board then clamp the board to the bench where needed. I could easily configure a step actuated system for that press (more permanently mounted) freeing up your hands.
Thanks so much for the review man, I just bought it too lol! I've got the same situation: roommates. And I find myself waiting to do leatherwork only when I'm alone. Any cons you've discovered while using it?
Was it set up correctly? You seemed to have to pull the handle so much in terms of travel. The handle can be adjusted to put it in a position to give you leverage pulling down. Looked like you were going round and then up again with the handle. Shame because it’s got a lot of potential imo! I thought about doing this in a moment of bed inspiration and I think it’s got the potential to change the game for stitching!!
Just started and I have downstairs neighbors. I don't want to hammer punch stitching holes any more so I don't bug them. This type of tool looks like a good alternative unless I just go straight to a diamond awl.
A much cheaper alternative are hand punches/pliers that you can buy anywhere between 15 to 50 bucks. Much quicker and easier to use than a press, but the press can use any tool you put in the chuck.
But punch pliers can only be used for stitching holes. You can use the press for almost all the work you would use a hammer for. Including cutting out shapes and such.
I don't use my press for small stuff, but punching along the sides of a guitar strap it's brilliant for stiching holes. Made oak "rails" on the plastic board that came with it as a kind of jig for consistent distance from the edge
I think one solution to changing out the tools would be to manually mark the corners using a 2 prong and then keep going with the 4-6 prong and only at the end switch the to the 2 prong and go over the markings
It would be great to have two and set one up for rivets and one for dura dots for speed production. A business could have several lined up with various tools.
As an aside, you'd see comparable speeds to hand punching if you had grouped the number of holes to be punched to minimize tool changes. Mark the holes on the corners with the two prong iron, but use the six prong to make the majority of the holes before swapping over. As others had said, the hand press gives consistent results (and in thicker leather) for quietly punching a lot of holes, but is also useful for setting leather hardware and studs, cutting belt/strap points, wet-forming and stamping. When properly secured to a bench, of course. 😊
Yes if I were to ever do another project like that I would mark them out as suggested. Someone mentioned they used this to do knife sheaths and that sounds like a great idea for accuracy.
Press mounted easier and maybe if u Mark the stitch line first corners included, the u can do all the straights first then swap for the 2 prong for all the corners. Oh and they sell same thing on a Japanese site for usd 165 that has a bigger base and some attachments that make sense. Leathercrafttools.com under presses or stamping tools
I've used my press for almost everything including punching holes and it works great ! I also made a guide to punch without lines at 2 mm 4 mm 6 mm along with glue it comes out great but i do the long runs first then the corners so your not changing tools like you did and with the guide i only overlap 1 hole ! Whats the thickness of that leather , i'm looking for thin stuff like that ?
Stop using that tool to tighten the chuck. It only needs to be hand tightened. It should take literally .5 seconds to swap out your pricking irons. I use a rare earth magnet above the chuck to hold my irons.This is so much easier and so much more efficient than doing it by hand.
Are there any disadvantages with using the chuck and hand tightening compared to the magnet? Are there any other ways where it's better to use the chuck?
If you are leatherworking out of an apartment...this method will keep your neighbors happy. If you are pre-planning your stich-holes in your patterns, you will not need to swap out irons as much.
First, you have clump the drill press that it doesn't move and with the double-sided tape fixed the acrylic plate over the metal one, then you need to adjust the height of the drill head that Pressing position is the most powerful. Does the drill chuck is big enough to hold the square head of the 8-10 teeth pricking Iron? The price is a little higher. such drill press costs less than 80$ in the hardware store
OK a couple of things. I just bought one and it is a lot, lot faster. It needs to be secured, you need to face the machine while operating it. On the corners I would not and now don't, change out the 2 pin punch. do the corners by hand. I have to give the little machine high praises for speed nd uniformity.
To be honest i think it would be easier just chisel and hammer... because its then the hassle of changing tools every 5 minutes when you come to a corner.. to reduce holes, but as iv read the comments.. to stay positive it is good for apartments and those that don't want to keep wacking a hammer all-day its smooth hole punch x
Where do you purchased the drill press bits for leather crafting since they have to fit chuck? I have looked and can't seem to find them? Please advise.
I'm sorry, but you don't use it wright. You have to setup the height so, that the height setting lever, is in your direction. So you can pull it down. So you have enough Pover for working easylly andere funfull. The way u do it, is ...
Good informative video. Thank you. I normally just use pricking irons. However, I can see the advantage of this machine. Most people will buy it knowing they have to change irons on corners, or just do them by hand and continue with the machine for the main body. Clamped down properly and standing in front of the machine using it correctly, I can definitely see advantages to using this. And of course the noise is another consideration. Professional leather workers probably wouldn't like it and doing lots of work they would use a sewing machine so punching holes wouldn't be required at all.
A possible solution looking for a problem.... But innovation is cool. We all use a press for snaps and rivets. I saw a punching machine recently that move the leather forward like a sewing machine. I have used my heavy duty machine to punch holes before. It was really fast.
Once it's secured to the table, it'll be way easier... And truth be told, you can just use the 2 prong chisel and hammer to do the corners... Less work...
Got the same unit , I moved the handle around , drilled a hole in the square arm that holds the chuck where there was just a short throw to the material and put a removable pin in for a stop ( at this time the same drill bit :) ) .
Yes I am aware I am cranking incorrectly. I had to operate from the back not to block the camera. 😀🎥
It really does need to be bolted down first before serious usage though.
Makesupply Leather This is a great idea, if you have a drill press you can use your stitching chisels the same way, by inserting into the drill press chuck.👍
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I think when you get to corners, just mark them manually and continue on the straights, then you can come back with 2 prong and finish them off...
Yeah I was thinking that too :)
I agree
*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*
I think this would be great for someone in an apartment or wanting to work while their house is sleeping so it quite. I know I hate working night shift and coming home with energy, motivation and cant hammer away
That EXACTLY what I thought as soon as I heard it. I have an art studio inside of an apartment building with thin walls and hammering after 8pm just seems super rude. This look absolutely perfect for that.
My old neighbors would have much rather I owned this at the time!
This was my thought too. I’m a night owl and I live in an apartment. I’m always hindered in my leather projects by needing to do my hammering during the day.
@@dawgyv72 have a look on amazon or aliexpress for "leather stitching pliers", it's a kind of lesser known tool I think. I ordered a set because I have a similar issue. I work during the day and can only do leather work at night so they should solve the problem, worth a look if noise in an issue.
Exactly why I am researching my options. I am in a condo connected to my neighbors and they tend to go to bed around 9pm. I usually don't sleep until midnight or 1am myself so I have a lot of wasted time I could be working on orders and side projects.
Im making my goods in apartment. Sometimes, punching holes makes a lot of noise so i choose this press.
now i can do it with one hand paralyzed
Only if you can get somebody to bolt it down for you.
I've just started leatherworking, and am having real trouble getting straight lines on the reverse side of the leather. Add to that the noise I'm making in an upstairs flat......Might have to seriously consider getting one of these.....
Swapping out the tools is definitely gonna be a PITA. I'm thinking maybe just use it for the straight runs and manually pop in the few holes for the corners. You could even cut a groove on both sides without having to worry about missing the groove on the inside.
I wouldn't swap to the 2 prong, that can be done manually
Or we can just mark it and continue with the 6 prong and do the corners at the end, its a great tool for quiet places
@@vicvondark or he could just buy two press machines, one with 2 one with 6....
I think the press has lots of advantages... consistent straight punched holes, quiet - no more banging and accuracy. I find that when hand punching the holes it only takes a very slight angle variation to get the back holes out of line. I personally wouldn't use the 2 prong punch in the press and would do those corners manually but if you do want to change then I'm sure using the chuck key isn't necessary and hand tight would be enough. The only other way to get consistent holes on both sides would be to use pricking pliers.
My hands have started to hurt after using the mallet & chisel to punch leather, so I haven't done it in a while. I was really interested after running across this video and bought a cheaper version of this to try out. I definitely want to upgrade to the better version, but am really loving the ease of use that this style of punching allows. I use a single 1mm hole punch, not a chisel-tip, over a paper template, which makes a very nice stitching line for thicker thread. To speed the process, I found that by closing the space between the punch and the leather to 1/4 inch or less made it easy to quickly line up the hole, punch, align, punch, align, punch, align, punch, etc., at about the speed it takes to read. It's made leatherworking fun again! Thanks so much for sharing.
Edit - someone asked where to find a 1mm hole punch - I found mine as part of a set on amazon. Good luck and have fun!
you need to remove the ball off the handle, go to a hardware store and buy a 24'' long 1/2'' steel pipe
insert the handle into the pipe and it will give you leverage . pick up a 2x6 board and a few bolts along with a 6'' clamp. screw the machine to the 2x6 and now you can use the clamp to secure it to the table with out putting holes in it.
This is also great for people with mobility problems, arthritis, carpal tunnel or RSS, rotator cuff issues, tennis elbow, etc.
Also people who live in apartments!
I have already opted for a similar setup for arthritis and hand pain issues. I also like my neighbours, so the quiet operation is a plus for us both.
I love this thing. Ordered it and have been using it exclusively ever since. It’s fantastic when it’s bolted down
I am using a 1 ton arbor press that also takes all my tools. It came with hole and screw all preinstalled. The big pro is it goes through 3 layers of the thickest leather like nothing, and looks perfect. And - I live in a flat and have to keep the hammering to a minimum. The press also sets rivets, buttons, cuts out any shapes, punches all my holes, stamps my leather etc. It is my ONE tool.
Sounds like a great tool. May i ask the make and model of your press?
@@Elbowjom I don't actually know the model my guess is it's Chinese a rebuild of an old German model. Got it off eBay. It's black with big red numbers on it, very distinctive. Mine is No 1. The larger they get, the higher the number.
Hello, is it possible to tell if you can put all the accessories on an arbor press ? Can you buy them separately and if so what did you buy please . Thanks
@oharu700 I just bought different sets of leather tools off of ebay. They all fit into the hole, some I wrapped with tape
I think another benefit, (besides the quietness) is that punching holes through really thick leather might come out straighter, I tend to get less vertical the thicker the leather is, I can also see the down side of have this extra machine that takes up space, and to be used effectively I think it's made to be screwed down to the table
Im definitely getting one just for my round edge tools. Every time i go through multiple layers it moves and doesnt cut the round corner on the bottom layer. This should take care of that
While I'm a traditionalist when it comes to many things, I can see the value in a product like this under certain circumstances. I'm a night owl and my wife prefers to go to bed early. I'm limited in what I can do while she is sleeping, so something like this would come in handy during those times. Other than that, I like throwing a hammer down on chisels, so it's definitely not something I'd use exclusively. One other note, you can adjust the handle throw so you don't have as much arm motion.
I think the normal way it's easier and faster than this way
But this ensures that the hole is plumb, and it’s silent.
I think it would be more useful for thicker projects especially with multiple layers to insure that it goes perfectly straight up and down. For thinner projects where it isn't much of a problem to make your holes perpendicular, I think I'd stick to my maul. Great video, thanks.
Yeah someone mentioned knife sheaths for me that sounds like a great application.
Great idea. Way overpriced. You can purchase an actual drill press for less.
Also could have 3 pre setup next to eachother with a 5 a 2 and a 1 or whatever combo.. Then no need to switch out anything and can just step over when needed
I use an $80 table top drill press when I need to work quietly. It does the same thing but can also be used to drill holes, Use as a drum sander or burnisher.
Hello! I've tried with a drill press but it doesn't work. How did you done it?
A One Ton arbour press with keyless Drill Chuck fitted Ram, will be better, i think
How has your experience been with the main shaft? I bought a very similar tool (the only difference is the color, I think), but after some use the main shaft started to bend. It even came off once, even though I tightened the bolt. My feeling is that the metal is made of cheap grade. Otherwise, I found the the machine better at churning out straighter lines than my bare hands. Thx for the video mate
You could just leave the six prong iron in the press and work the corners by hand, it would be a lot faster.
Thank you for this video. I purchased an upgraded version of this same machine with heating elements, so I have an option to hot brand leather or do gold foil and have a chuck drill installed when working with pricking irons. I had issues with the machine being unstable and didn't have the luxury of destroying my desk by permanently securing it to it because my apartment is too small, but I secured it to a cheap meat-cutting wooden board with a greater surface that I simply put on the table when working with it. Now here comes another problem with this tool - it comes with a very low-quality drill chuck so I replaced it with a self-securing drill chuck. No other tools are needed and it's quicker to replace different tools. There is a third problem as well and that is - working with non-round tools like many pricking irons are. Drill chuck will simply not hold it properly, it will go sideways, and next to doing bad work you can also destroy your tools. I overcame this by buying an industrial rubber foot (the standard one for furniture is not strong enough for this) with installed M10 or M12 bolts. I simply put it in the drill chuck and manually hold the pricking iron with my left hand while pressing with my right hand. This is not an out-of-the-box solution but it is easy and cheap to upgrade it by yourself with just a little bit of effort and for just a little bit of money get a machine that really makes difference.
Looks like they pulled a switcheroo on the Amazon listing. Found a few items on AliExpress but shipping is around $70-something.
Wow, this is a terrific solution for apartment dwellers and thanks for the review. I wonder, will the chuck accept Sinabrok irons?
Michael Yap there are different sizes of chucks out there.. sina broks fits inside the big ones..
I'm looking into getting this machine. As far as changing our the number of prongs, I have a set that has one handle and you just screw in the tips into the handle. So, once the handle installed int he chuck, just unscrew the 6 prong and replace it with the 2 prong. It will make switching the number of prongs much faster. Like this one: tandyleather.com/collections/tools/products/diamond-hole-chisel-set
Did you end up getting this machine and how did it turn out for you I'm looking at buying one for myself and I would like to hear your opinion
@@brendanmccreesh5112 yes, I did get this and was very disappointed. It only has one screw that holds the chuck or the bit in and as a result, it makes the check/bit Cantor enough that it doesn’t press straight down. I tried wedging some thing on the opposite side to help straighten it out, one individual posted, said that he fixed it because he’s a machinist, but he didn’t say how. I thought about taking it to a machinist and having a second screw hole tapped on the other side in order to straighten it out, or taking it to a welder and having them weld the chuck in so it is straight doesn’t move and can’t be removed. But instead, I wound up going to Tandy and buying one of their machines which I’m a lot more happy with.
@@ricewing1 Thank you very much I'll have to look for one that's better quality.
I'm going to try this with my 1T arbor press and heavy duty magnet
Thats what im trying. I bought a 1/2in drill chuck to see if i can make the chisel more stable...
I tried it already. My results were not good. Good luck to you
@@Augcliffe - I actually own KS blades and they dont work with magnets haha
@@jeremygonzalez8382 - Let me know how the drill chuck works for you.
Filming and trying to use it at the same time is frustrating. You say getting around the corner wasn’t easy but it looked so obvious that all you cared for was the camera angle and not about properly using the tool. Move the camera when you can’t properly use tools if not don’t do reviews complaining about shit that wouldn’t have been a issue with no camera
You have a bolt on each side of the ram, they are a "Positive Stop". The handle should stop at parallel to the table for max. leverage. Move the head up or down on the post for depth of punch. A punch pad similar to tire rubber duct taped to the base plate. A guide bar of 1/8 thick by 1" wide Steel with adjustment slots at each end to set distance from punch to edge of work peace. Drill and tap 1/4 x 20 the base plate for the guide bar. A flat metal plate over the guide bar located very near the stitch chisel to hold down the leather when lifting the chisel. This too will be bolted down and shimmed to proper height for your work peace. Do as much as possible with out changing tools. This will also work for round punches but with a stripper plat with a hole. Think about the time spent lining up the punch, pick up the hammer, bash the punch, put down the hammer, pry the punch out of the leather, repeat. The press is very efficient way to work.
I am sure it would be easy to swap the chuck with a keyless chuck and save loosing or picking up the key every time....thanks for the video i am getting one.
You would only have to change once if you would mark your corners and come back to them .
Quicker by hand for sure. Maybe faster if you lower the fork closer to the leather, then you don't have so far to travel.
Have you tried it for ready rivets and snaps? I have a cheapo harbor freight press that I drilled the shaft to hold tools (never thought of the drill chuck). Snaps and ready rivets are its prime use.. These require a nice even squish or you get a mess
Thanks for showing us your thoughts on it. I was surprised that you didn't start from the center and work outwards, also that you didn't have it clamped to something. Since you do have it, I hope you find more good uses for it.
This seems such a great tool which would enhance the appearance quality of the item, i have problem in punching when sometimes i don’t perfectly punch the wholes 100% vertically so after all this small tiny issue affects the end result, i would love to know your feedback after long time you spend it with that tool.
Thank you in advance for your helpful content ❤
Thank you for the informations
I want to modificat my piece so i can to punch my leather on thikness around 10mm Will it work ? Please tell me What do you think ?
hey I know this is an older video but how would you say the durability of the machine is after a lot of uses? like is the back post a thin hollow metal or solid?
If anyone didn't already offer this, try only making dimples with your two-prong, by hand. Whenever you get to the straight part again, put it back under the press. Once all your straight stretches are done, you can switch to the two prong, one time, and do all the corners and difficult parts.
Attach the press to a sturdy board then clamp the board to the bench where needed.
I could easily configure a step actuated system for that press (more permanently mounted) freeing up your hands.
Thanks so much for the review man, I just bought it too lol!
I've got the same situation: roommates. And I find myself waiting to do leatherwork only when I'm alone. Any cons you've discovered while using it?
Was it set up correctly? You seemed to have to pull the handle so much in terms of travel. The handle can be adjusted to put it in a position to give you leverage pulling down. Looked like you were going round and then up again with the handle. Shame because it’s got a lot of potential imo! I thought about doing this in a moment of bed inspiration and I think it’s got the potential to change the game for stitching!!
Just started and I have downstairs neighbors. I don't want to hammer punch stitching holes any more so I don't bug them. This type of tool looks like a good alternative unless I just go straight to a diamond awl.
I had just ordered one and it was sent back because the carrier damaged it in transit. Looks like I'll be reordering one, it looks really useful
you made the 2 prong look dramatic lol. but I never used one. im getting mines soon
A much cheaper alternative are hand punches/pliers that you can buy anywhere between 15 to 50 bucks. Much quicker and easier to use than a press, but the press can use any tool you put in the chuck.
But punch pliers can only be used for stitching holes. You can use the press for almost all the work you would use a hammer for. Including cutting out shapes and such.
i dont know why you use this machine too high. Its difficult to you only. Put down a little and you life is easy.
I don't use my press for small stuff, but punching along the sides of a guitar strap it's brilliant for stiching holes. Made oak "rails" on the plastic board that came with it as a kind of jig for consistent distance from the edge
A jig! Great idea! Consistent spacing and time saver!
For something that small I would have never changed out the chuck the two-pronged chuck was more than enough once you get into rhythm be fast as hell.
I think one solution to changing out the tools would be to manually mark the corners using a 2 prong and then keep going with the 4-6 prong and only at the end switch the to the 2 prong and go over the markings
O we have a load of drill presses unsold, who ever comes up with an idea gets a extra bowl of rice 😊
I got a keyless chuck, which makes life easier.
The best idea
Hello, Whats the maximum Stroke i can get out of this Press? (I need at least 2.5" )
It would be great to have two and set one up for rivets and one for dura dots for speed production. A business could have several lined up with various tools.
Great video but you just wasted a beautiful patch of raw leather by punching in it. 🙄
My scrap pile is the size of a small country by this point. Had to make a sacrifice!
I have a small drill press about the same size, do you think I could use that instead of buying that?
As an aside, you'd see comparable speeds to hand punching if you had grouped the number of holes to be punched to minimize tool changes. Mark the holes on the corners with the two prong iron, but use the six prong to make the majority of the holes before swapping over. As others had said, the hand press gives consistent results (and in thicker leather) for quietly punching a lot of holes, but is also useful for setting leather hardware and studs, cutting belt/strap points, wet-forming and stamping. When properly secured to a bench, of course. 😊
Yes if I were to ever do another project like that I would mark them out as suggested. Someone mentioned they used this to do knife sheaths and that sounds like a great idea for accuracy.
thanks for this response, very practical. I was wondering myself how to get round that.
How large is the punch plate you showed underneath? U think is strong enough to use with a clicker press for a die set?
I 1-ton arbor press mounted on a higher surface (to see better when punching) has more torque.
I live in a flat (2nd floor) and use on of these to keep the hammering down...😊
And with 2 machines you can have the big and small hole puncher so u dont have to change :D
Yeah, bolting or clamping the entire machine to your workbench is key.
I'm convinced. I need one. Ordering as soon as I'm done with this video.
Why switch it out, just use you double with the mallet, then go back to the press fir the rest 🎉
The handle setup is not correct.
Where and how to purchase from the Caribbean Trinidad&Tobago
It s usfel with diamant, but is it usfel with Hol punch Hollow driling tools ?
لقد نجح مع الديامون، لكن هل يينجح مع الشوكة المجوفة الدائرية؟ ارجو الاجابة
Press mounted easier and maybe if u Mark the stitch line first corners included, the u can do all the straights first then swap for the 2 prong for all the corners. Oh and they sell same thing on a Japanese site for usd 165 that has a bigger base and some attachments that make sense. Leathercrafttools.com under presses or stamping tools
I like the corner idea
Thanks I just bought one of these. It's gonna be a great help.
get a tabletop drill press by wen... cheap and you also have a drill press when needed
I've used my press for almost everything including punching holes and it works great ! I also made a guide to punch without lines at 2 mm 4 mm 6 mm along with glue it comes out great but i do the long runs first then the corners so your not changing tools like you did and with the guide i only overlap 1 hole ! Whats the thickness of that leather , i'm looking for thin stuff like that ?
Have you used this one in the video? Would you recommend this one?
I guess it helps keep it straight I hit through multiple layers wonky at times
Stop using that tool to tighten the chuck. It only needs to be hand tightened. It should take literally .5 seconds to swap out your pricking irons. I use a rare earth magnet above the chuck to hold my irons.This is so much easier and so much more efficient than doing it by hand.
Are there any disadvantages with using the chuck and hand tightening compared to the magnet? Are there any other ways where it's better to use the chuck?
Couldn't you do all the corners first then do the straight lines?
just leave the corners and use the mallets on it later after the straight edge.
Lower the tool arm down man cliser to the leather.
This could be ideal for longer straight runs and thicker leather.
Nice sailor jerry eagle 🙏🏽
Hot glue thin textured rubber mat to base bottom to keep the entire assembly from slipping around.
Did you get this machine and how did it turn out for you worth buying or is it a pass.
If you are leatherworking out of an apartment...this method will keep your neighbors happy. If you are pre-planning your stich-holes in your patterns, you will not need to swap out irons as much.
First, you have clump the drill press that it doesn't move and with the double-sided tape fixed the acrylic plate over the metal one, then you need to adjust the height of the drill head that Pressing position is the most powerful. Does the drill chuck is big enough to hold the square head of the 8-10 teeth pricking Iron? The price is a little higher. such drill press costs less than 80$ in the hardware store
Yes it absolutely needs to be set in place before serious usage.
but how if using pricking iron with flat handle instead of round handle, can it be hold on that tools?
OK a couple of things. I just bought one and it is a lot, lot faster. It needs to be secured, you need to face the machine while operating it. On the corners I would not and now don't, change out the 2 pin punch. do the corners by hand. I have to give the little machine high praises for speed nd uniformity.
just punch the corners manually
To be honest i think it would be easier just chisel and hammer... because its then the hassle of changing tools every 5 minutes when you come to a corner.. to reduce holes, but as iv read the comments.. to stay positive it is good for apartments and those that don't want to keep wacking a hammer all-day its smooth hole punch x
Where do you purchased the drill press bits for leather crafting since they have to fit chuck? I have looked and can't seem to find them? Please advise.
Change out the Chuck for a keyless
I'm sorry, but you don't use it wright.
You have to setup the height so, that the height setting lever, is in your direction.
So you can pull it down. So you have enough Pover for working easylly andere funfull.
The way u do it, is ...
Good informative video. Thank you. I normally just use pricking irons. However, I can see the advantage of this machine. Most people will buy it knowing they have to change irons on corners, or just do them by hand and continue with the machine for the main body. Clamped down properly and standing in front of the machine using it correctly, I can definitely see advantages to using this. And of course the noise is another consideration. Professional leather workers probably wouldn't like it and doing lots of work they would use a sewing machine so punching holes wouldn't be required at all.
Too much work
A possible solution looking for a problem.... But innovation is cool. We all use a press for snaps and rivets. I saw a punching machine recently that move the leather forward like a sewing machine. I have used my heavy duty machine to punch holes before. It was really fast.
Thanks for this video. Guess I will stick to my tried and true method of using a hammer.
I bought the Jvedo hand press machine and achieved the same function as same as the video. And at an impressive price.
Once it's secured to the table, it'll be way easier... And truth be told, you can just use the 2 prong chisel and hammer to do the corners... Less work...
Can it use to install eyelet?
Got the same unit , I moved the handle around , drilled a hole in the square arm that holds the chuck where there was just a short throw to the material and put a removable pin in for a stop ( at this time the same drill bit :) ) .