Rebuilding A Foam Cored Rudder Part 2
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- Опубліковано 27 гру 2013
- Watch all the videos in this rudder series!
• Rebuilding A Foam Core...
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I am almost to this stage on my hunter 28.5 rudder rebuild. Your "tip" on tipping will help greatly. Patiently waiting for part 3. Thanks Andy for your time and talents.
I plan to pull my rudder in the next week or two and rebuild t over the winter. Your videos are a lot of help.
Hi Andy, that was cool. I just rebuilt my rudder, the inside was resin and sand. That was not fun, I found the tangs were all good and I didn't need to cut the rudder in half after all...yahoo. I hour glassed all the edges in about an inch inside and out and filled with 6-10 epoxy. Where the shaft went through the rudder, I hour glassed around the shaft and filled with the 6-10 epoxy. It turned out pretty darn nice. I have to check my clearances and I think I can overlay the entire rudder now with 1708. But I want to see how this foam you are using turns out to shape, I have an idea for it's use...lol. So post the next part please.
I always learn something from your videos, thank you.
Ron Glad you liked it :-)
Andy, what foam are you using. Which brand specifically?
Awesome vidio,I'm planning to redo the interior of my Morgan 28and wondered what your thoughts were on using plywood vs king board or some plastic board
Looking forward to part 3! Keep the videos coming! Great work
Wonderful tunes
What prevents the rudder post turning inside the rudder without ears. Am shocked this has not happened already ... Also how long did this project take? Thanks for the great video ..
I also wondered why there are no forks/ears/finns on the rudder shaft. Would have been so easy to weld on.
@@gunnarhaldorsen4185 Can't weld to composite rudder stock.
Hi Andy, didn't know you could get expanding urethane foam in the closed cell variety and always used PVC foam which you have to cut into odd shapes to fit into corners. That was a good tip! I'll try to find it in my local suppliers of composite materials. What is the difference between a closed cell urethane foam and PVC foam then and when would you choose to use each?
Why didn’t you add the missing fingers?
You should use a brush to go up the sides and underside of the rudder and the post with the foam before it sets off. It will help prevent the "mushrooming", and allow you to work with more area at once without the worry of the heat buildup.
Excellent job. I always learn something useful from your videos.
The only thing I would have done different, and I don't know anything; is I would have used a spatula to squege the over spillage from the surface. I may reduce the amount of sanding. May help, or not! Just a thought. Love the show and keep on living your dream
i'm asking myself ,,,why arent you trying to glue the pole or shaft on the rudder blade with époxy and fiberglass ,before pouring the high density foam...?
Make a tilt apparatus so you can adjust during foam ekspansion.
I noticed the rudder shaft was glassed in on the other side, the side you did not cut and that was how the post was secured to the rudder body. Was that just luck? Or was that planned because you knew somehow which side to cut on. This could have been a different story if you cut on the wrong side. I am going to have to rebuild my 1990 Hunter 35.5 rudder at some point and I believe they do not have fingers either. Any suggestions on that?
What did you do to close off the rudder post ??
Wow, I did two spaces either side of my fish hold tat were three feet long, two feet high and one foot thick in three pours, they must have got pretty warm
Did you seal the rudder tube.??
Can foam be used in transom?
I didn't see any "ears" as you called them coming off the post to give the rudder stability. Did I miss something?
if you use packing tape to tape off around the hole the expanded foam will peel off we use cross cut saw's to remove buke of waste as you know sanding that stuff is a nightmare
I'm surprised there aren't ant tangs/plates welded to the stem tube within the rudder
I'm redoing my tiller. Do I need a glass finish ? That's my goal. Not sure if its necessary. Mine is rustic. Nothing more than a big oak board it seems. Its not rotted. Just dings and ruts. Looks like someone just painted it with a black oil base paint. Very confusing. I may just start from scratch. Use this as a template and a spare. ???
May I ask how much foam you used at this point?
Thanks,
Dan
I think roughly 4 gallons total (2 gallons of each resin).
*****
Thanks!
Hey Andy Can this be done to replace the balsa core in my rotted deck?Its about 2 x3 foot.Thanks for all your help now and in the past.
bruce don I suppose it could, but it would not be cost effective as this stuff is very expensive by the time you have to pay for HAZMAT shipping :-) Also, it would take quite a bit more time to get it level and fared in compared to using a flat section of coring material (whether it be balsa, ply, etc).. That being said if I happen to have the foam on hand and I'm working on a small area (6"x6" give or take) I might be tempted :-)
BoatworksToday I was actually thinking the same thing as Bruce. I am looking for an older sailboat to liveaboard and travel (my funds are limited) and enjoying your videos quite a bit. I can say one thing in favor of that foam is the ability to work in a more primitive environment (no table saw required like you used on the powerboat deck replacement)
Andy what would you have done, if the owner wanted internal ears put in the rudders core?
Barncle Bill Most likely refused as it would then have shifted liability on me for altering the design in the event something were to fail..
Waiting not so patiently for the next video.
How do you shape this foam as it is very hard?
It shapes much like wood. I'll be covering this in the next video, but an aggressive sander and 60 grit paper is generally all that is needed :-)
Not adding the fingers you mentioned for the rudder post ?
If I were to alter the original design then I could be held liable for any possible failure down the road :-/
Did it really not occur to you to contact the boat owner or whoever contracted you to do the repair to inform them of the fact that the rudder contained no re-in forcing ribs and let them decide if they want to improve the construction of their rudder? That seems like the least you should do. Then have them sign a waiver that they assume responsibility.
@@boatworkstoday Seems strange. I would think there is a higher risk on getting future problems when there are no fingers/fins to help turn the rudder. Can't understand why you would be less liable by not improving it. Not a rudder for blue water cruising. Love your videos, by the way!
what kind of foam - the preparation?
Check out the write up on my website :-). If you have further questions please let me know! Thank you
***** OK. :)
+Andy Miller How about a link to it?
that is smart. thank-you for answering so quickly.
How lucky that you cut out the side that rudder post was not attached to.
wait a minute...i think you missed a nook...or was it a cranny...?
No breathing protection.
Very surprised that you didnt feel it a good idea to add some/a fin to the rudder tube....because the factory did a lousy job is no reason not to make it right.....I would have removed the post completely and welded a SS plate on that had a bunch of holes drilled in it so the foam would completely encase it and bond through the holes in the plate.....
Me too.
Can't weld to composite rudder stock.