The video was a big help. I did this alone. It was fun & challenging. I used some zip ties and a vise to compress the spring. I put it all back together. Thanks again for the great video.
Amazing video. Thank you very much. How should I remove the air inside the valve after I reinstall it ? There will be some air I don't want going into the filter.
Sadly, for me, I didn't find your website until after I changed my Hayward key seal assembly by myself. I performed some acrobatics to compress the spring by standing on the head with both feet while hammering in the pin under the sole of my shoe. The replacement seems to be a lesser quality, so when it wears out, I'll try F-clamps. Our pool is 40 years old, so imagine my shock when I discovered I could no longer replace just the spider gasket as I'd done before. Sticker shock, that is. I think the gasket used to be $10; the key seal is $70.
Hi, I used your video to replace the key. I made sure the notch on the front of the handle was on top of the open wedge of the key as close to center as possible. It acts normal when set to filter but when I set it to backwash, only a trickle comes out vs a normal healthy stream. In which position was the selector in when you removed it? Filter? I'm worried that it's misaligned. If it is, can you help guide me to get it centered again?
I change about two dozen of these a season and unlike the video, I do not have a large man to assist me. Most people dont which renders this video almost useless. Two C-clamps is how one accomplishes this task but even that is bad advice. The best approach is to purchase the key cover and lid assembly already assembled. It's only moderately more expensive and a great deal easier to replace
I agree with you. Your comment should be highlighted and in bold print. After reading all the problems encountered such as no flow, trickle flow, flow from discharge and back into pool at the same time, there is too much room for error. Not to mention that dadgum spring you have to compress and the mysterious o-rings that you forgot to order. I'm not sure the savings is worth it. Buy the assembly, remove the screws, replace the assembly, replace the screws, done. This is an example of "just because you can, doesn't mean you should". Life is too short.
Could this seal going bad (the white one) cause sand in the pool? It might be algae, so I am swapping out the sand tomorrow and having another look at the laterals (checked them out on the weekend, looked ok) So I'm kind of at a loss if the sand doesn't work
I'm gonna do all the diy solo guys and gals a solid by suggesting to use 2 clamps to compress the spring. I recall having my wife stand on it so I could get the pin back in when I did this the first time. Not a great idea and then shortly thereafter the clamp idea popped into my head. I did this with clamps this time and it was a breeze. I used a small piece of 5/4 decking to level the bottom of the valve so the bottom of the clamp could sit flush and not go into the underside and clamp it evenly.
Brilliant! Many thanks to @matth2868!!! Totally saved my solo operation. The guy in the video must be a pro athlete, and that's not something a regular hulking husband or wife is capable of doing, letting alone have your loved one standing on it LOL. Better to get a pre assembled kit or a pair of heavy duty clamps as @matth2868 suggested. IMHO this video owner owes a credit to @matth2868 to make it a true DIY for regular folks.
Yes, you can do this with the filter still attached to the pump and pool. Just make sure all power is turned off at the breaker before taking apart the filter.
How do I stop the water from coming out of the top when I'm ready to replace the Key assembly gasket? When remove my old one, water just pours from the top of the filter continually.
We'll assume you have an above ground pool since water is continuously pouring out of the valve. If so, there should be valves that close off the flow of water before the pump and after the filter. If there are no valves, you can plug the skimmer and the return.
@@Inyopools I took a disposable plastic bag, folded it up and put it infant of the hole where the water goes into the pull. When you pull the valve, it sucks the bag in a little way from the back draw and it stops leaking. Then when you put the cover back on, just remember to gran the bag or it will be floating in the pool.
Just replaced mine. I have the one like in your video. Went smoothly, but after reinstall it still leaks and if I put the selector on filter it leaks if I pushing down on the back end of the handle a little it stops leaking what would be causing this?
Is it normal for it to be difficult to pry the two pieces of the key seal apart? I removed the multi port and then took the handle off but after that the two pieces would not come apart for me to put my lower replacement part and seals on. Thanks!
It is common for those two parts to be hard to pull apart. There are small orings on the shaft and those will expand over time. This is what usually makes it difficult.
I replaced the Key seal and now there is no water coming out of the backwash selection (there wasn't before). If I move the handle between the circulation selection, water comes out of the backwash hose but there is also water coming back in the pool. Any suggestions?
Hello Diane - Was the cover installed with the correct orientation in regards to the key seal? Check out the video around the 3:45 mark. ua-cam.com/video/u0Nrxy2FsrM/v-deo.htmlm47s
Hi, I was trying to remove the pin from the handle with the method shown. I am not sure when the pin was last removed, as I only recently bought the house, but it was definitely not loose. When hammering the pin, the screwdriver I was using went into the hole that the pin was in, and got stuck. Now I have half a pin sticking out of one end and a screwdriver sticking out of the other, and neither will budge. Do you have any advice for how to fix this, or should I just buy a whole new assembly?
Hello David - We have run into your situation before. The tension of the spring is pressing up on the valve cover. This is pinching the pin and screwdriver in place. You need to compress the cover and key assembly even more until you can continue to tap out the pin. If that doesn't work, I would replace the entire key, cover and handle assembly.
It would have been helpful to let us know what you have to do to filter BEFORE you start disassembly… turn off filter? Let out air pressure? Point handle to certain location???
Take out the top valve assembly and look at the spider gasket. Check for any crimps or cracks in the gasket. Also, always rotate the valve handle in the same direction (clockwise or counterclockwise). There is a greater chance of the gasket crimping if you go back and forth in opposite directions.
save yourself a trip and make sure you check if you need new o-rings. My o-ring looked perfectly fine bit was "swollen," if that makes sense, so when I tried compressing the spring, the top wouldn't squeeze past the o-ring, even after I lubed it up a bit. I've wasted probably 30 minutes trying to use a vice and other tools and methods, so save yourself some time... best way to check I'd say is see if the top pushes down all the way without a spring in the way, maybe this is a fringe situation but it'll take 2 seconds to check and maybe save a drive and time wasted
Finding a press that could create enough pressure while allowing the diverter stem to poke through the cover to insert the pin would be hard. You'd likely need a few vice grips, clamps, or presses.
The video was a big help. I did this alone. It was fun & challenging. I used some zip ties and a vise to compress the spring. I put it all back together. Thanks again for the great video.
Amazing video. Thank you very much. How should I remove the air inside the valve after I reinstall it ? There will be some air I don't want going into the filter.
Sadly, for me, I didn't find your website until after I changed my Hayward key seal assembly by myself. I performed some acrobatics to compress the spring by standing on the head with both feet while hammering in the pin under the sole of my shoe. The replacement seems to be a lesser quality, so when it wears out, I'll try F-clamps.
Our pool is 40 years old, so imagine my shock when I discovered I could no longer replace just the spider gasket as I'd done before. Sticker shock, that is. I think the gasket used to be $10; the key seal is $70.
Hi, I used your video to replace the key. I made sure the notch on the front of the handle was on top of the open wedge of the key as close to center as possible. It acts normal when set to filter but when I set it to backwash, only a trickle comes out vs a normal healthy stream. In which position was the selector in when you removed it? Filter? I'm worried that it's misaligned. If it is, can you help guide me to get it centered again?
My pool assembly is just like this one,i ordered a spider gasket not knowing it wasnt replacable.Is it impossible or just hard
Best Tutorial . Nice presentation. A standard to strive for.
Mine is leaking can I plug it until backwash is necessary?
Thanks fellas awesome video 🍻
Super easy! Thank you, from Toronto, Canada!
Glad it helped!
Got the broken handle off but can’t separate the two pieces (top w label and then part # spx0714ca.
Help! 😅
When putting the handle on. Does it still go in filtration when you put it on closed when you took it off?
I change about two dozen of these a season and unlike the video, I do not have a large man to assist me. Most people dont which renders this video almost useless. Two C-clamps is how one accomplishes this task but even that is bad advice. The best approach is to purchase the key cover and lid assembly already assembled. It's only moderately more expensive and a great deal easier to replace
I agree with you. Your comment should be highlighted and in bold print. After reading all the problems encountered such as no flow, trickle flow, flow from discharge and back into pool at the same time, there is too much room for error. Not to mention that dadgum spring you have to compress and the mysterious o-rings that you forgot to order. I'm not sure the savings is worth it. Buy the assembly, remove the screws, replace the assembly, replace the screws, done.
This is an example of "just because you can, doesn't mean you should".
Life is too short.
Could this seal going bad (the white one) cause sand in the pool?
It might be algae, so I am swapping out the sand tomorrow and having another look at the laterals (checked them out on the weekend, looked ok)
So I'm kind of at a loss if the sand doesn't work
I did just as in the video but I have water leaking out of the waste pipe and my handle is loose and jiggly
Why can’t you remove the pin before taking the six screws out? Wouldn’t the spring be depressed this way?
I would like to know why they don't suggest that as well. I have tried it the way you have suggested and it worked fine.
I'm gonna do all the diy solo guys and gals a solid by suggesting to use 2 clamps to compress the spring. I recall having my wife stand on it so I could get the pin back in when I did this the first time. Not a great idea and then shortly thereafter the clamp idea popped into my head. I did this with clamps this time and it was a breeze. I used a small piece of 5/4 decking to level the bottom of the valve so the bottom of the clamp could sit flush and not go into the underside and clamp it evenly.
Brilliant! Many thanks to @matth2868!!! Totally saved my solo operation. The guy in the video must be a pro athlete, and that's not something a regular hulking husband or wife is capable of doing, letting alone have your loved one standing on it LOL. Better to get a pre assembled kit or a pair of heavy duty clamps as @matth2868 suggested. IMHO this video owner owes a credit to @matth2868 to make it a true DIY for regular folks.
Can this be done while filter is still attached to pump and pool?
Yes, you can do this with the filter still attached to the pump and pool. Just make sure all power is turned off at the breaker before taking apart the filter.
How do I stop the water from coming out of the top when I'm ready to replace the Key assembly gasket? When remove my old one, water just pours from the top of the filter continually.
We'll assume you have an above ground pool since water is continuously pouring out of the valve. If so, there should be valves that close off the flow of water before the pump and after the filter. If there are no valves, you can plug the skimmer and the return.
@@Inyopools I took a disposable plastic bag, folded it up and put it infant of the hole where the water goes into the pull. When you pull the valve, it sucks the bag in a little way from the back draw and it stops leaking. Then when you put the cover back on, just remember to gran the bag or it will be floating in the pool.
Thanks from Canada :)
Thank you! Great directions, step by step. We did it ourselves!
We're glad to hear that, Andrew! Thank you for the feedback.
i replaced spider gasket and key assembly and still leaking out the back wash. Help
What model multiport valve do you own? Is the valve's handle jiggly or stiff when you try to move it?
Wonderful video..easy to understand and a lot of knowledge..thank you guys .
Thank you so much! This was very helpful!
Very helpful video. Thanks
Where we can get the gasket and the defusing part and how much it will cost
The Hayward valve in this video was an SP0714T. The gasket and diffuser is part number 4703-23. www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352020282.htm
Just replaced mine. I have the one like in your video. Went smoothly, but after reinstall it still leaks and if I put the selector on filter it leaks if I pushing down on the back end of the handle a little it stops leaking what would be causing this?
Warped housing maybe.
Thank you for a very useful video.
I did that, but now water is coming out alot on all of them, when I move it around
Pro tip, remove handle first, then unscrew the top casing
Great tip!
Is it normal for it to be difficult to pry the two pieces of the key seal apart? I removed the multi port and then took the handle off but after that the two pieces would not come apart for me to put my lower replacement part and seals on. Thanks!
It is common for those two parts to be hard to pull apart. There are small orings on the shaft and those will expand over time. This is what usually makes it difficult.
I replaced the Key seal and now there is no water coming out of the backwash selection (there wasn't before). If I move the handle between the circulation selection, water comes out of the backwash hose but there is also water coming back in the pool. Any suggestions?
Hello Diane - Was the cover installed with the correct orientation in regards to the key seal? Check out the video around the 3:45 mark. ua-cam.com/video/u0Nrxy2FsrM/v-deo.htmlm47s
Do I need to lube the o rings?
You can lubricate the o-rings but you do not need to lubricate the spider gasket.
@@Inyopools I was wondering about that, thanks for mentioning it.
Hi, I was trying to remove the pin from the handle with the method shown. I am not sure when the pin was last removed, as I only recently bought the house, but it was definitely not loose. When hammering the pin, the screwdriver I was using went into the hole that the pin was in, and got stuck. Now I have half a pin sticking out of one end and a screwdriver sticking out of the other, and neither will budge. Do you have any advice for how to fix this, or should I just buy a whole new assembly?
Hello David - We have run into your situation before. The tension of the spring is pressing up on the valve cover. This is pinching the pin and screwdriver in place. You need to compress the cover and key assembly even more until you can continue to tap out the pin. If that doesn't work, I would replace the entire key, cover and handle assembly.
Thank you !!!!!!
You're welcome!
thanks guys!
It would have been helpful to let us know what you have to do to filter BEFORE you start disassembly… turn off filter? Let out air pressure? Point handle to certain location???
Use C-clamps to compress
I put a brand new filter valve and it's still leaking out of waste any suggestions?
Take out the top valve assembly and look at the spider gasket. Check for any crimps or cracks in the gasket. Also, always rotate the valve handle in the same direction (clockwise or counterclockwise). There is a greater chance of the gasket crimping if you go back and forth in opposite directions.
save yourself a trip and make sure you check if you need new o-rings. My o-ring looked perfectly fine bit was "swollen," if that makes sense, so when I tried compressing the spring, the top wouldn't squeeze past the o-ring, even after I lubed it up a bit. I've wasted probably 30 minutes trying to use a vice and other tools and methods, so save yourself some time... best way to check I'd say is see if the top pushes down all the way without a spring in the way, maybe this is a fringe situation but it'll take 2 seconds to check and maybe save a drive and time wasted
So helpfull
hydraulic press should come in handy for this lol
Dang, I knew we forgot something that day. lol
I can’t believe the key seal doesn’t come with new seals and orings
It would of been a hell of a lot better if Hayward made the unit with an easily replaceable gasket. Listening Hayward?
Use a press or clamp and be more easy
Finding a press that could create enough pressure while allowing the diverter stem to poke through the cover to insert the pin would be hard. You'd likely need a few vice grips, clamps, or presses.