It's taken me a week and a half but I've watched all your videos now. You really have a gift for explaining things in a way that's easy to understand. I wouldn't even mind if I had to watch an ad before each video. Keep up the great work!
Great job. No need to apologize for video length! I think most of us could just watch your videos for hours! They are very therapeutic in an odd sort of way.
I think I just saw that missing sock you were looking for. As always, awesome! Common practice for lubricating band saw blades is a stick of bees wax, available at any hardware store, a lot less than a bar of soap, and no scent, but if you are going to use soap, consider Ivory soap, no scent in it and used by many cabinet makers on drawer ways. And you're not cheap, just financially smart...specially when you now how to make them. Look around your shop, see the tools you built, WHEN you have a manufacturing company, you'll be reminded of your beginnings and know, you literally started from scratch and stay humble. Good job, now...go find that mate to that sock...LOL, good luck.
Could you lubricate the band saw blades with paraffin wax (candle wax)? I think that would work too.And since this is a 'bike channel', you can use candle wax to lubricate your bike chain as well.
Paraffin wax is great for bike chain, there is a proper method of doing so, which I read a little while ago on instructables.com: www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating-a-Bicycle-Chain-using-Paraffin/ But for long lasting tooling an cutting bees wax and carnauba wax is ideal.
eddie Towers just started watching these videos and went to mention the bees wax but saw your comment. it's also great for mig/stick to prevent spatter from sticking to the work piece. I bought a huge bar of it from a Joanns craft store nearby for near nothing. had to chime in. lol
Congratulations Pithy for the video, I can suggest one makes a video, making one to make the threads of the center movement of the bike, it would be very good. Congratulations one more time. Brazil thanks.
A few suggestions, -Try "pecking" when you drill on the mill or lathe. just stop advancing the drill for a split second and the chip will break, that way you wont get the rats nest whipping around the drill bit. not a huge issue, it's just good practice. -An old tap works in a pinch if you don't have a center punch. loving the videos, keep em coming
Bench grind clearance on the right side of the tool, no flipping needed. It's aluminum, more or less shiny wood. Also, a cheap candle works great as band saw lubricant. A lower TPI (wood) blade can also be used, as long as the engagement on the teeth is three tooth's worth (no thin stuff on a low tpi blade) You could have knurled the handle instead of dimpling it - knurling makes the part grow. Great job! I wish I had a lathe in the garage, not just at work.
Ha! That reamer you had to buy, I just bought off amazon due to some weird pricing accident. $22 new. As soon as I bought it, it went to $188. Every once in a while, even a blind mouse can find a piece of cheese.
Hey, I really enjoy your videos! So, to avoid the chips getting all long and tangly in your lathe, grind a chip breaker on the front edge of your tool. A chip breaker is basically a cylindrical lip ground into the cutting edge. Gives the cutting edge a short section of steep rake. This allows the chip to curl and break as it goes into and out of the cylindrical lip. Make sense? Sorry if not.
is the inside diameter reamer just clamped with a nut against the cutting edges of the facing reamer? will those bite into it to transfer the torque or how is the inside reamer driven?
+Jörn Bucklitsch they do and I too thought that was peculiar. I watched some how to face HT videos and examined pics of various tools, from what I can tell.. This is how it's setup is designed.
Amazingly, It's the pressure from the securing nut. Because they both turn clockwise when reaming it's in a tightening direction. I too thought this would not be enough to hold the inside reamer from turning but that's the way the Park Tool Reamer is designed and borrowed that design for this build.
I'm doing some Custom Fabrication on my bicycle that requires cutting the head tube of the frame off of one bicycle and Welding it onto another. I am having to do this so that I can use the forks that I want to use primarily because I want this brakes on my bicycle. The existing front forks do not allow disc brakes. I did not realize until I already started that one frame is aluminum in one frame is steel. I'm not very experienced with welding to begin with, most of my welding is mostly bed frame gauge steel. Usually modifying bed frame material to make whatever I need. The welder I have is just a 110 wire welder I inherited from my father. I do know he has used it for different kinds of welding. I don't know the difference between Mig and Tig, I don't know what gases he used to make what kinds of welds. I've only used it for straight wire welding with steel. Can anybody tell me what I need to make this wire welder work welding aluminum to steel?
It will be very interesting to see how long your second bike frame takes to build, now that you have your methodology, jigs & fixtures already in place. Probably around 50 hours for a welded, unfinished frame. Time will tell.
+Dirk Dhulst Great point, I didn't think about that. If I were to build the same type of frame, probably pretty fast. I've been learning a ton and there's a few things I would do differently second time. Like maybe for this type of frame I'd use straight guage tubing. And the whole drive train is more or less an experiment. Ah the beauty of making your own, and messing around! Next bike will be a long tail for my son. I'll make it from some scrap frames. Thanks for the question!
Good for you making your own. The milling cutters and reamers are expensive enough (and unfortunately you cant make those) but the rest of it is trivial to make if you have a few basic machine tools, as you demonstrate. Its insanely overpriced to buy, though. Those bicycle tool companies are a rip-off, in my opinion - even the cheaper brands, like Cyclus, are still pretty expensive. I guess time is money. Either you spend the time to make it, or you fork out the dough... :-)
Hi, It took me roughly 3 days (machining / designing). Materials ran me around $60. I used remnant aluminum and steel stock that I had. The actual cutter was the biggest expense and that had me in for $200 - (2 cutters, facer and reamer). You can by the whole thing from Park Tool for around 500. I built mine mostly for the learning experience. In the end I didn't save any money!
+boo9oob I'm an artist in mobile games. I think the reason I can afford the tools is that's where I spent most money. I'm not saving as much as I should. I've saved no money this past 2 years. It's no surprise why ;) Most of the people I work with bought houses. I didn't because I had to choose between doing bike stuff and videos now, or putting that money towards a down payment on a house. I'm glad I chose bike stuff. ☺
+boo9oob I'm an artist in mobile games. I think the reason I can afford the tools is that's where I spent most money. I'm not saving as much as I should. I've saved no money this past 2 years. It's no surprise why ;) Most of the people I work with bought houses. I didn't because I had to choose between doing bike stuff and videos now, or putting that money towards a down payment on a house. I'm glad I chose bike stuff. ☺
Would you sell me that tool? I am stock with a ceramic BB and there is no one in FL whom does reaming. And the Park Tool costs more that my bike frame.
+Dinxsy most of the cost is on the cutting tools. But I have to say, the park tool body that holds the cutters is very well made. The holder Imade is made for the enthusiast like myself. It wouldn't last long in high volume shops. Mainly because the body is aluminum. Some day I might upgrade it. But yeah I agree, still the price on these reamers/faces seem quite steep. Some day I want to maybe design one that uses carbide inserts. To save money. But my my inexperience has me thinking this way.
It's taken me a week and a half but I've watched all your videos now. You really have a gift for explaining things in a way that's easy to understand. I wouldn't even mind if I had to watch an ad before each video. Keep up the great work!
Thanks so much for watching all the videos. You are a soldier!
Great job. No need to apologize for video length! I think most of us could just watch your videos for hours! They are very therapeutic in an odd sort of way.
+thechosendude I'm here to help. 😉
I think I just saw that missing sock you were looking for. As always, awesome! Common practice for lubricating band saw blades is a stick of bees wax, available at any hardware store, a lot less than a bar of soap, and no scent, but if you are going to use soap, consider Ivory soap, no scent in it and used by many cabinet makers on drawer ways. And you're not cheap, just financially smart...specially when you now how to make them. Look around your shop, see the tools you built, WHEN you have a manufacturing company, you'll be reminded of your beginnings and know, you literally started from scratch and stay humble. Good job, now...go find that mate to that sock...LOL, good luck.
Could you lubricate the band saw blades with paraffin wax (candle wax)? I think that would work too.And since this is a 'bike channel', you can use candle wax to lubricate your bike chain as well.
Paraffin wax is great for bike chain, there is a proper method of doing so, which I read a little while ago on instructables.com:
www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating-a-Bicycle-Chain-using-Paraffin/
But for long lasting tooling an cutting bees wax and carnauba wax is ideal.
eddie Towers just started watching these videos and went to mention the bees wax but saw your comment. it's also great for mig/stick to prevent spatter from sticking to the work piece. I bought a huge bar of it from a Joanns craft store nearby for near nothing. had to chime in. lol
Tri-State WIFI LLC really, we'll that's also cool, to prevent shatters. Nice.
Great job, love your work, love the fact you specialize in building for bikes.
Congratulations Pithy for the video, I can suggest one makes a video, making one to make the threads of the center movement of the bike, it would be very good. Congratulations one more time.
Brazil thanks.
A few suggestions,
-Try "pecking" when you drill on the mill or lathe. just stop advancing the drill for a split second and the chip will break, that way you wont get the rats nest whipping around the drill bit. not a huge issue, it's just good practice.
-An old tap works in a pinch if you don't have a center punch.
loving the videos, keep em coming
+dR.Ugz good tips! Never thought to use an old tap. 👍
+dR.Ugz good tips! Never thought to use an old tap. 👍
Bench grind clearance on the right side of the tool, no flipping needed. It's aluminum, more or less shiny wood. Also, a cheap candle works great as band saw lubricant. A lower TPI (wood) blade can also be used, as long as the engagement on the teeth is three tooth's worth (no thin stuff on a low tpi blade)
You could have knurled the handle instead of dimpling it - knurling makes the part grow.
Great job! I wish I had a lathe in the garage, not just at work.
+monomerx001 knurling! What a great idea. Thanks for the great tips, really appreciate it.
Ha! That reamer you had to buy, I just bought off amazon due to some weird pricing accident. $22 new. As soon as I bought it, it went to $188. Every once in a while, even a blind mouse can find a piece of cheese.
Hey, I really enjoy your videos! So, to avoid the chips getting all long and tangly in your lathe, grind a chip breaker on the front edge of your tool. A chip breaker is basically a cylindrical lip ground into the cutting edge. Gives the cutting edge a short section of steep rake. This allows the chip to curl and break as it goes into and out of the cylindrical lip. Make sense? Sorry if not.
Like this. Hope this link works.
goo.gl/images/hRV8o5
So good. Awesome stuff as always
Thanks you for watching!
You mentioned machining class at 10:18. Where can one take such a class. I'm in Houston, Texas. Thks
I took a class in Oakland CA. Sorry I don’t know of any in Texas but try a google search!
superb, you have excellent machining skills!! What is the model of your lathe?
will this work for a super stuck seatpost?
is the inside diameter reamer just clamped with a nut against the cutting edges of the facing reamer? will those bite into it to transfer the torque or how is the inside reamer driven?
+Jörn Bucklitsch they do and I too thought that was peculiar. I watched some how to face HT videos and examined pics of various tools, from what I can tell.. This is how it's setup is designed.
alright, didn't know that. great video btw...
Beautiful build. I see how the pins stop the face mill spinning, but what stop the reamer sitting beneath it spinning? 15:18
Amazingly, It's the pressure from the securing nut. Because they both turn clockwise when reaming it's in a tightening direction. I too thought this would not be enough to hold the inside reamer from turning but that's the way the Park Tool Reamer is designed and borrowed that design for this build.
Can I stop over and have you ream and face my new titanium frame? And chase and face my bb too? Oh, and face my caliper mounts?
Brilliant.
I'm doing some Custom Fabrication on my bicycle that requires cutting the head tube of the frame off of one bicycle and Welding it onto another. I am having to do this so that I can use the forks that I want to use primarily because I want this brakes on my bicycle. The existing front forks do not allow disc brakes. I did not realize until I already started that one frame is aluminum in one frame is steel. I'm not very experienced with welding to begin with, most of my welding is mostly bed frame gauge steel. Usually modifying bed frame material to make whatever I need. The welder I have is just a 110 wire welder I inherited from my father. I do know he has used it for different kinds of welding. I don't know the difference between Mig and Tig, I don't know what gases he used to make what kinds of welds. I've only used it for straight wire welding with steel. Can anybody tell me what I need to make this wire welder work welding aluminum to steel?
It will be very interesting to see how long your second bike frame takes to build, now that you have your methodology, jigs & fixtures already in place. Probably around 50 hours for a welded, unfinished frame. Time will tell.
+Dirk Dhulst Great point, I didn't think about that. If I were to build the same type of frame, probably pretty fast. I've been learning a ton and there's a few things I would do differently second time. Like maybe for this type of frame I'd use straight guage tubing. And the whole drive train is more or less an experiment. Ah the beauty of making your own, and messing around! Next bike will be a long tail for my son. I'll make it from some scrap frames. Thanks for the question!
Acme Rod isn’t cheap - but ACME taps are *really* expensive! (I needed a 1/2 - 10 ACME tap for the bike stand.)
Cool video, as always.
+Crivo152 thanks ☺👍
That was awesome, well done man. :)
+scrubby4130 👍
Good for you making your own. The milling cutters and reamers are expensive enough (and unfortunately you cant make those) but the rest of it is trivial to make if you have a few basic machine tools, as you demonstrate. Its insanely overpriced to buy, though. Those bicycle tool companies are a rip-off, in my opinion - even the cheaper brands, like Cyclus, are still pretty expensive. I guess time is money. Either you spend the time to make it, or you fork out the dough... :-)
Where did you get those cutters?
They are Park Tool cutters. I think I had ordered than on Amazon but you can also purchase them directly from Park Tool.
every time you go "but I am cheap" I say "well you are not the only one!"
Hahahaha!
Did you ever get a center punch ?
I still haven't got one yet :( I really should.. its such a simple tool.
Where can I send you one ? I'm a blacksmith and I'll make you one to your length and diameter of liking.
what is the dimension of the inner diameter of the tools? trying to build one myself..
The measurement I got is 18.2mm. Good luck with your build!
wow thanks a lot!
how much did this tool cost you in material and time
Hi, It took me roughly 3 days (machining / designing). Materials ran me around $60. I used remnant aluminum and steel stock that I had. The actual cutter was the biggest expense and that had me in for $200 - (2 cutters, facer and reamer). You can by the whole thing from Park Tool for around 500. I built mine mostly for the learning experience. In the end I didn't save any money!
ahaha I was just wondering how long it took you to get that clip of the rolling cone. Great job, as always :)
+_ _ You watched to the very end! :D
I feel like I am trying to get into the game to late
What do you do for living? And how can you afford all of those tools?
Really like your channel btw! ^^
+boo9oob I'm an artist in mobile games. I think the reason I can afford the tools is that's where I spent most money. I'm not saving as much as I should. I've saved no money this past 2 years. It's no surprise why ;)
Most of the people I work with bought houses. I didn't because I had to choose between doing bike stuff and videos now, or putting that money towards a down payment on a house. I'm glad I chose bike stuff. ☺
+boo9oob I'm an artist in mobile games. I think the reason I can afford the tools is that's where I spent most money. I'm not saving as much as I should. I've saved no money this past 2 years. It's no surprise why ;)
Most of the people I work with bought houses. I didn't because I had to choose between doing bike stuff and videos now, or putting that money towards a down payment on a house. I'm glad I chose bike stuff. ☺
I'm really glad too you made this decision! :) How did you learn all this stuff? Handle those tools, building a bike...
@@PithyBikes We are so glad you chose the bike stuff too. Instead of saving for a house down payment. but one day you will.
where did you go to school to learn how to frame/build bikes
School of : oh shit I fucked it up again, but I learned out of this. Oh and google..
Ha! You rock!
+Chiro75 your laundry comment made me lol, so I had to. 😁
Not a bad length.
+Adam Pierce 👍
+Adam Pierce 👍
Would you sell me that tool? I am stock with a ceramic BB and there is no one in FL whom does reaming. And the Park Tool costs more that my bike frame.
sorry can't sell. I need it! :) But maybe you can find a cheaper alternative online. Search "head tube reamer" on google. good luck!
Do you have an email to contact you or and address to write to you.
good job, but going out to buy the lathe is about 4 times as much as the park tool itself man.....just saying.
Boeing lube, or Boelube
I can't stand fragranced soap. Or any fragrance.
Too "cheap" to buy the tool... but has a lathe to manufacture one instead... 😂
You're not cheap at all dude, why buy it when you can make end of the day. The tool is way overpriced for the job it does.
+Dinxsy most of the cost is on the cutting tools. But I have to say, the park tool body that holds the cutters is very well made.
The holder Imade is made for the enthusiast like myself. It wouldn't last long in high volume shops. Mainly because the body is aluminum. Some day I might upgrade it.
But yeah I agree, still the price on these reamers/faces seem quite steep.
Some day I want to maybe design one that uses carbide inserts. To save money. But my my inexperience has me thinking this way.