I used the smallest flat head screwdriver i could find, put a small amount of grease on the bearing to hold and attach to spring and pushed it down. And inserted the pawl into the cavity. I had the ratchet handle on a small vise to keep from moving. Good video
The easiest way to keep the ball bearing in place when you're fitting the reversing pawl is to use a carton staple made into the letter "J" and that works like the tool that used to come in the rebuild kits. Also, if you must use grease, it should be something like the Harbor Freight Super Lube. The Sears instructions mostly say to use SAE30 oil on some of them. Some of the kits included Swepco branded grease in the past.
I had a bear of a time getting that bearing in! I'm surprised your method work - well done. I ended up making a tool for the job similar to the factory tool. Some advice: Don't use misleading titles and silicone grease used sparingly is much better than high temp grease.
The problem I always get with mine is that the spring wears out. I just take out the spring and stretch it out a bit and get another few years out of it. Add a tiny bit of oil while I’m in there. Crazy how many of these USA ratchets get thrown out when that’s really all they ever need.
I repaired 100s of these whenI worked for SEARS, Large tooth ratchets work best with light grease like super lube. use grease to help hold the ball in place. use oil on fine tooth ratchets. 1/2'' ratchets are easy, try rebuilding the 1/4'' ones, much harder to get back together.
Really the best lubrication for these ratchets is light machine oil such as 3 in 1. Thats what they ship with from the factory. Thick grease like bearing grease attracts and retains more dirt than machine oil.
That is correct, and what I use and the instructions say. Lighter grease also works, but again oil is the way to go. The repair kits ship with a small packet of Swepco grease
Thanks for the video. Actually surprised that the clearance allowed you to successfully get the bearing in the way you did it. The whole point I thought was that it had to be slightly smaller for the pawl to get in and hence already on the spring and ever so slightly depressed to allow the pawl to come in and lock it all together. I think I will try the index card on my 1/4 inch Craftsman drive. Thanks!
It's always worthwile to maintain your tools. I have heard that Snap-On rachets ship lubricated with Super Lube synthetic grease. Many comments on this video suggest 3-in-1 oil. It probably depends on the conditions the rachet is exposed to. I would think if using 3-in-1, you might have to lubricate it more frequently, but you could probably just soak the rachet head in a jar of 3-in-1 overnight and let it drain on some paper towel a while and you would be good to go for a few months.
D K thanks for the comment. What many have missed in their comments is that a light oil will not smooth out the awful ratchet that these wrenches come with. By using the grease it sort of fills the gaps so to speak so yes you can use 3n1 but I don't believe it is the best for this application
@@aperturenow9125 I agree that grease would probably be the most long lasting choice. I think that many people have concerns about grease attracting dirt and turning to gunk, but the more important concern is just to keep the ratcheting mechanism lubricated. With regular maintenance, any dirt issues associated with using grease can be addressed. These are really solid ratchets and anyone who says they're not is probably using a ratchet where they should be using a breaker bar.
Misleading title! A better title would have been how to grease a Craftsman ratchet.I was hoping you would show us how to repro file the pawl for more positive engagement.
Only the larger gear needs to be removed to lube that wrench. Of course, if it was dirty, some brake cleaner could be used first, then let it dry before lubing it.
You don't need to take it down that far, unless you want to inspect teeth. Take the plate off and fill it up with fluid film reinstall plate and snap ring, wipe excess off. When done, it works very smooth and quiet. Depending on how much you use it, but normally once a year re lubricate.
I have studied and tried every tip including greasing and oiling. I found grease to be worst due to slip in paul engagement and gap in gear contact. Best was to soak the head in ATF and I have done it 1/4 to 1/2 with excellent results.
The weakest part of the whole wrench is the plastic (rrrrr) selector lever. Mine snapped in half. End of wrench life. Lesson learned, again, plastic is a no go.
That's s secret? Cleaning and lubing a ratchet is hardly a secret. When used in industrial application, which means professional use, that's common practice. Also, maintaining your ratchets before they get bad reduces wear. And damn boy, buy some snap-ring pliers! Even cheap ones are only $5.00
using a piece of index card or any thin cardboard to put on to the ball while putting the paw in, then pulling out the card... makes it soooo much more easy getting it back together! I have rebuilt many USA craftsman ratchets.
Does that include the Craftsman ½ inch torque wrench, model # 44441? I cannot get the ball bearing to stay on top of the spring while compressing the spring enough to get the small gear into the cavity. A small screwdriver won't work on a round ball. Instructions with the kit referred to a tool to compress the spring while keeping the ball from flying off. I just do not feel like making a tool myself - I'm too old for that.
Hi buy the second one (made in china), as soon i get home, i opened up and put a lot of green grease and works very nice and doesn`t sound nothing. Good Ratch, not good as crafstman usa but it works good
I figured 90 Plus percent of these that get swapped or new kits just need a clean and grease and if they are jammed up from dried grease then yes they can strip out and I am disturbed at all you the UA-cam videos with people buying out all the rebuild kits so the real technician's can no longer rebuild if they need to!!!!!!! I saw one today that looked new with old grease and the guy put in a new kit for no reason! I have used those for 25 years daily and the anvils look polished lol. I have a older ones than me sk swivel head I cleaned and lubed when I was a kid I used twice in those 25 years and I pulled it out to use and it had dried grease and same thing on a torque wrench I needed to use because my digital would not fit in the spot I was working so I cleaned it in 15 minutes and on my way. If you can not service a ratchet you have no business holding one lol.
Mike--My sentiments exactly; what's so "secret" about using grease on moving parts?. The assurance that a little grease would make the ratchet mechanism "a thousand percent better to use" and "smooth as a snap-on" would be overstatement as well.
The difference between those two ratchets is, the American made one says USA on it, the other one is from China, btw, you should use 3 in 1 oil instead of grease, but it will still work.
fullporaport - once you turn in your high quality old one Made in the USA and get a cheaper import you will never get to go back! Rather keep my old teardrop Made in the USA ratchet.
I used the smallest flat head screwdriver i could find, put a small amount of grease on the bearing to hold and attach to spring and pushed it down. And inserted the pawl into the cavity. I had the ratchet handle on a small vise to keep from moving. Good video
The easiest way to keep the ball bearing in place when you're fitting the reversing pawl is to use a carton staple made into the letter "J" and that works like the tool that used to come in the rebuild kits.
Also, if you must use grease, it should be something like the Harbor Freight Super Lube. The Sears instructions mostly say to use SAE30 oil on some of them. Some of the kits included Swepco branded grease in the past.
I had a bear of a time getting that bearing in! I'm surprised your method work - well done. I ended up making a tool for the job similar to the factory tool. Some advice: Don't use misleading titles and silicone grease used sparingly is much better than high temp grease.
The problem I always get with mine is that the spring wears out. I just take out the spring and stretch it out a bit and get another few years out of it. Add a tiny bit of oil while I’m in there. Crazy how many of these USA ratchets get thrown out when that’s really all they ever need.
I repaired 100s of these whenI worked for SEARS, Large tooth ratchets work best with light grease like super lube. use grease to help hold the ball in place. use oil on fine tooth ratchets. 1/2'' ratchets are easy, try rebuilding the 1/4'' ones, much harder to get back together.
Really the best lubrication for these ratchets is light machine oil such as 3 in 1. Thats what they ship with from the factory. Thick grease like bearing grease attracts and retains more dirt than machine oil.
correct
That is correct, and what I use and the instructions say. Lighter grease also works, but again oil is the way to go. The repair kits ship with a small packet of Swepco grease
@@shaun4bigblocksllc you’re wrong. You do not want any type of gel like grease in these ratchets. Machine oil is what’s best for any tooth count
I bought 3in1 after seeing this comment, and it made all my ratchets good as new. Thanks for the info
Yes you are so correct. The thinner the better, especially on fine tooth ratchets.
Thanks for the video. Actually surprised that the clearance allowed you to successfully get the bearing in the way you did it. The whole point I thought was that it had to be slightly smaller for the pawl to get in and hence already on the spring and ever so slightly depressed to allow the pawl to come in and lock it all together. I think I will try the index card on my 1/4 inch Craftsman drive. Thanks!
It's always worthwile to maintain your tools. I have heard that Snap-On rachets ship lubricated with Super Lube synthetic grease. Many comments on this video suggest 3-in-1 oil. It probably depends on the conditions the rachet is exposed to. I would think if using 3-in-1, you might have to lubricate it more frequently, but you could probably just soak the rachet head in a jar of 3-in-1 overnight and let it drain on some paper towel a while and you would be good to go for a few months.
D K thanks for the comment. What many have missed in their comments is that a light oil will not smooth out the awful ratchet that these wrenches come with. By using the grease it sort of fills the gaps so to speak so yes you can use 3n1 but I don't believe it is the best for this application
@@aperturenow9125 I agree that grease would probably be the most long lasting choice. I think that many people have concerns about grease attracting dirt and turning to gunk, but the more important concern is just to keep the ratcheting mechanism lubricated. With regular maintenance, any dirt issues associated with using grease can be addressed. These are really solid ratchets and anyone who says they're not is probably using a ratchet where they should be using a breaker bar.
I bought 3 rachets when Sears closed. None worked correctly. The problem? Had zero lubricants inside. Added lubricants and works great now!
dab of grease will hold the bearing in place during reassembly . Then install the pawl.
I worked as a "fixer" in a textile mill for 7 years, using craftsman ratchets, I managed to wear out 1 kit, pretty tough tools
Misleading title! A better title would have been how to grease a Craftsman ratchet.I was hoping you would show us how to repro file the pawl for more positive engagement.
Only the larger gear needs to be removed to lube that wrench. Of course, if it was dirty, some brake cleaner could be used first, then let it dry before lubing it.
You don't need to take it down that far, unless you want to inspect teeth. Take the plate off and fill it up with fluid film reinstall plate and snap ring, wipe excess off. When done, it works very smooth and quiet. Depending on how much you use it, but normally once a year re lubricate.
The thinner the grease the better I use either super lube or 20/50 royal purple depending on the ratchet
GREASE WORKS GREAT ON LOW TOOTH COUNT RATCHETS
I have studied and tried every tip including greasing and oiling. I found grease to be worst due to slip in paul engagement and gap in gear contact. Best was to soak the head in ATF and I have done it 1/4 to 1/2 with excellent results.
The weakest part of the whole wrench is the plastic (rrrrr) selector lever. Mine snapped in
half. End of wrench life. Lesson learned, again, plastic is a no go.
Add a grease zerk and pump it full once it's assembled.😂
That's s secret? Cleaning and lubing a ratchet is hardly a secret. When used in industrial application, which means professional use, that's common practice. Also, maintaining your ratchets before they get bad reduces wear. And damn boy, buy some snap-ring pliers! Even cheap ones are only $5.00
I like the tool you used to hold the ball bearing in place. What i it called?
I did that trick on some vintage snap on Ratchets I got are use ratchet Grease
The easiest way to quick lube a ratchet is to soak them in oil over night and "drip dry"
You did that second one fast...
Holy barrel of grease batman! Lol
I guess the secret is that there is no secret!!!!
using a piece of index card or any thin cardboard to put on to the ball while putting the paw in, then pulling out the card... makes it soooo much more easy getting it back together! I have rebuilt many USA craftsman ratchets.
Does that include the Craftsman ½ inch torque wrench, model # 44441? I cannot get the ball bearing to stay on top of the spring while compressing the spring enough to get the small gear into the cavity. A small screwdriver won't work on a round ball. Instructions with the kit referred to a tool to compress the spring while keeping the ball from flying off. I just do not feel like making a tool myself - I'm too old for that.
Hi buy the second one (made in china), as soon i get home, i opened up and put a lot of green grease and works very nice and doesn`t sound nothing. Good Ratch, not good as crafstman usa but it works good
I'm finished with the old junk. Most Tiawan lifetime warranted ratchets outperform my old 40-year-old 3/8" craft ratchet.
I figured 90 Plus percent of these that get swapped or new kits just need a clean and grease and if they are jammed up from dried grease then yes they can strip out and I am disturbed at all you the UA-cam videos with people buying out all the rebuild kits so the real technician's can no longer rebuild if they need to!!!!!!! I saw one today that looked new with old grease and the guy put in a new kit for no reason! I have used those for 25 years daily and the anvils look polished lol. I have a older ones than me sk swivel head I cleaned and lubed when I was a kid I used twice in those 25 years and I pulled it out to use and it had dried grease and same thing on a torque wrench I needed to use because my digital would not fit in the spot I was working so I cleaned it in 15 minutes and on my way. If you can not service a ratchet you have no business holding one lol.
Mike--My sentiments exactly; what's so "secret" about using grease on moving parts?. The assurance that a little grease would make the ratchet mechanism "a thousand percent better to use" and "smooth as a snap-on" would be overstatement as well.
Clean it with brake cleaner Then Lube!!
not sure about being a "secret"....but yeah. cleaned an old forged in USA craftsman other day prolly forst time ever been apart
The difference between those two ratchets is, the American made one says USA on it, the other one is from China, btw, you should use 3 in 1 oil instead of grease, but it will still work.
Good vídeo thanks 😍😍
Hi sir fine post
I just bring mine back to the store get new one with better design and highter teeth count. Its was a better move then fixt it
fullporaport the cleaner looking one in the video is as it came from the store.
fullporaport - once you turn in your high quality old one Made in the USA and get a cheaper import you will never get to go back! Rather keep my old teardrop Made in the USA ratchet.
Looked like 3/8 ratchets to me.
Bait and switch bs.
Those craftsman ratchets are garbage!