**MiracleMax** yes Sir; this video of yours is GOLD; I never saw the problem dealt that way,and it is amazing; i do have one of those scope kits,gonna solder it up,and build the sensor you made; you are some engineer! Usually i lift the car,one front wheel at a time,remove the tire,and run the engine at 1800 RPMs (caution,they double at the one wheel, DO NOT go over 2000 RPMs,the diff hurts..); that never fails,the sound of the bad bearing becomes loud that way. edit: a 1 megaohm resistor is needed in parallel with that sensor (the name is Minisense 100 ); it can put out +- 50 volts AC and damage the scope; i just read that on the tech data for the device.
Hey Jose, I am always careful about running a RWD vehicle on one wheel - you can do some real damage. Also it is a no-no if it is a limited slip diff. Here is a link to another vehicle I used that sensor on to isolate a fault. ua-cam.com/video/shRbQTlvXwk/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX Thanks for the comment on the resistor - basically that is an antenuator, so that the oscilloscope can read higher voltages without being damaged. Cheers MiracleMAX
I like it! I am in the process of diagnosing my diesel truck's rear end noises and the engine is so loud it's hard to say where the sounds are generated from. Your approach would be very helpful.
I was amazed at how easy the diagnosis was with the vibration sensor and oscilloscope. The wheel bearings were nowhere near as bad as I expected, but the noise was horrendous! I have seen bearing cups worse than that without making as much noise. I don't think I would have diagnosed it as quickly without the tools. As long as you have all your wiring tied out of the road, you can leave it connected on an actual road test, which will make your diagnosis more realistic. I hope your testing proves successful. MiracleMAX
When you showed the races in the light, the flickering is because you probably run 50Hz power to the lights and a 60Hz camera. Try if the camera has a PAL setting or you can otherwise fix it to 50Hz, it eliminates the flicker.
Hey jackmama79, This was my very first oscilloscope. I built the kit with the enclosure in front of the TV in about 2 hours. It has been great to carry out diagnoses. I have bought other more expensive ones, but sometimes use this one for convenience. Here is one of the links, but you can get them off Ebay or other places as well. www.aliexpress.com/premium/dso138.html?d=y&origin=y&catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20210713143734&SearchText=dso138 Here's one in the $200 range ua-cam.com/video/pR4J58qmr8k/v-deo.html And finally I bring out the big guns..... ua-cam.com/video/v4SfEtAggOg/v-deo.html
That's great!! Good diagnosis, I read your write up in tat! How come the noise didn't change when your turning left and right? I understand that sound travels through the drive shaft, but every wheel bearing I have ever diagnosed usually changes when loading either way. Would love some feedback
Hey Easy E's Mechanical , Good to hear of a fellow TaT member. I have no idea why the wheel bearing noise didn't vary when turning from side to side - that's what made this diagnosis so difficult. I have always been able to isolate wheel bearing noise accurately, but this one had me scratching my brain! I did notice that the bearings were overheated, but not pitted as I would have expected. Perhaps they were just at the start of the 'I'm falling apart - help me' stage. The noise was quite obvious in the cabin, but not outside. Maybe the acoustics of the cabin accentuated the noise??? I'm just clutching at straws here, but I am so glad my little Vibration Sensor did the trick. I have build quite a few 'speciality tools' to help with diagnosis. I'm making a 'first look' sensor at the moment and will put up a video when I'm finished. Thanks for your comments. I wish I had a clearer answer to your question, but at least I was able to diagnose and repair the fault. 😁 MiracleMAX
Hey Cameron, You could try this site. core-electronics.com.au/piezo-vibration-sensor-small-vertical.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAzMGNBhCyARIsANpUkzO7LoA5GA4YfvIXo0S4D4uO60ekJNQ6w13Bu5SsRqPWnXUAuPyJqhMaAqZgEALw_wcB or just search 'piezo vibration sensor'
Hmm, you might have to have a look at your audio settings. I just reviewed the video and found it really easy to hear my voice over the low level music. On my earlier videos, you would be right as I was getting used to editing my videos, but haven't had any issues for a number of years. Thanks for your input. I hope that you were able to get some benefit from the video 😉 Cheers MiracleMAX
**MiracleMax** yes Sir; this video of yours is GOLD;
I never saw the problem dealt that way,and it is amazing; i do have one of those scope kits,gonna solder it up,and build the sensor you made; you are some engineer!
Usually i lift the car,one front wheel at a time,remove the tire,and run the engine at 1800 RPMs (caution,they double at the one wheel, DO NOT go over 2000 RPMs,the diff hurts..); that never fails,the sound of the bad bearing becomes loud that way.
edit: a 1 megaohm resistor is needed in parallel with that sensor (the name is Minisense 100 ); it can put out +- 50 volts AC and damage the scope; i just read that on the tech data for the device.
Hey Jose,
I am always careful about running a RWD vehicle on one wheel - you can do some real damage. Also it is a no-no if it is a limited slip diff.
Here is a link to another vehicle I used that sensor on to isolate a fault.
ua-cam.com/video/shRbQTlvXwk/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
Thanks for the comment on the resistor - basically that is an antenuator, so that the oscilloscope can read higher voltages without being damaged.
Cheers
MiracleMAX
Love your work Max
Cheers Mike! I hope you enjoy other videos on the channel. 😁😉
@@MiracleMAX Subscribed already & thanks again.
I like it! I am in the process of diagnosing my diesel truck's rear end noises and the engine is so loud it's hard to say where the sounds are generated from. Your approach would be very helpful.
I was amazed at how easy the diagnosis was with the vibration sensor and oscilloscope. The wheel bearings were nowhere near as bad as I expected, but the noise was horrendous!
I have seen bearing cups worse than that without making as much noise. I don't think I would have diagnosed it as quickly without the tools.
As long as you have all your wiring tied out of the road, you can leave it connected on an actual road test, which will make your diagnosis more realistic.
I hope your testing proves successful.
MiracleMAX
Great idea, Mark! Good job!
Worked a treat!
When you showed the races in the light, the flickering is because you probably run 50Hz power to the lights and a 60Hz camera. Try if the camera has a PAL setting or you can otherwise fix it to 50Hz, it eliminates the flicker.
Thanks for your advice telocho,
Cheers
MiracleMAX
Max, what is that little scope? A kit? Any link to it, it looks like it might be a Arduino or pi project?
Hey jackmama79,
This was my very first oscilloscope. I built the kit with the enclosure in front of the TV in about 2 hours. It has been great to carry out diagnoses. I have bought other more expensive ones, but sometimes use this one for convenience.
Here is one of the links, but you can get them off Ebay or other places as well.
www.aliexpress.com/premium/dso138.html?d=y&origin=y&catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20210713143734&SearchText=dso138
Here's one in the $200 range
ua-cam.com/video/pR4J58qmr8k/v-deo.html
And finally I bring out the big guns.....
ua-cam.com/video/v4SfEtAggOg/v-deo.html
That's great!! Good diagnosis, I read your write up in tat!
How come the noise didn't change when your turning left and right?
I understand that sound travels through the drive shaft, but every wheel bearing I have ever diagnosed usually changes when loading either way. Would love some feedback
Hey Easy E's Mechanical
,
Good to hear of a fellow TaT member.
I have no idea why the wheel bearing noise didn't vary when turning from side to side - that's what made this diagnosis so difficult. I have always been able to isolate wheel bearing noise accurately, but this one had me scratching my brain!
I did notice that the bearings were overheated, but not pitted as I would have expected. Perhaps they were just at the start of the 'I'm falling apart - help me' stage. The noise was quite obvious in the cabin, but not outside. Maybe the acoustics of the cabin accentuated the noise??? I'm just clutching at straws here, but I am so glad my little Vibration Sensor did the trick.
I have build quite a few 'speciality tools' to help with diagnosis. I'm making a 'first look' sensor at the moment and will put up a video when I'm finished.
Thanks for your comments.
I wish I had a clearer answer to your question, but at least I was able to diagnose and repair the fault. 😁
MiracleMAX
I know Im quite off topic but do anybody know a good place to watch new movies online?
@Ryan Kenzo lately I have been using flixzone. You can find it on google =)
Where did you pick up this tool?
Hey Cameron,
You could try this site.
core-electronics.com.au/piezo-vibration-sensor-small-vertical.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAzMGNBhCyARIsANpUkzO7LoA5GA4YfvIXo0S4D4uO60ekJNQ6w13Bu5SsRqPWnXUAuPyJqhMaAqZgEALw_wcB
or just search 'piezo vibration sensor'
Very clever MM.
Thanks Mate
@@MiracleMAX Hi, does it matter what the setting are set on, you have it set on 10mv DC & 0.5ms on the wheel bearing & on the diff its 0.1v DC & 10ms
Who's the wise guy who put music over the video while we're trying to hear the video audio?
Hmm, you might have to have a look at your audio settings. I just reviewed the video and found it really easy to hear my voice over the low level music.
On my earlier videos, you would be right as I was getting used to editing my videos, but haven't had any issues for a number of years.
Thanks for your input.
I hope that you were able to get some benefit from the video 😉
Cheers
MiracleMAX