This video was very helpful mate. I love the way you explain evrything. I have a small trailer rental business and jockey wheels were a nightmare until now. I appriciate all the work you have done into breaking every component down. Keep up the great work legend!
Thanks for posting. I really enjoyed watching and it speaks to the importance of preventative maintenance. Doing this with a new product will stand in the long run. I neglected this in the past and had corrosion problems - and I boat in fresh non salt water!!! Thanks Stu
You are a very comprehensive mechanic sir. Even the small jockey wheel on a trailer needs love too. If you had one that was seized up could you get it going by spraying it with half a can of " Start Ya Bastard " ? Haha as you can see the fact there is a product with that name somewhere on this world has changed my life. Haha. I can see a future little Blue Pill to help men with Erectile Dysfunction also called " Start Ya Bastard ".
Hey Stu. Your video from last month jelled with me on the weekend, and I rolled up my sleeves and gave it a Dangar Marine once-over. Should have done it months ago. It works so much better now. Thanks Mate !
Realise this is an older vid, but I find for trailers that sit outside, the moisture seeping in through the top under the handle is what does most of the damage. I just use an upturned plastic bucket over the full handle and find it saves the lubrication from dissipating and the rust taking hold. I know nothing about boats but just found you channel and love the way you explain things. I guess mechanical is still mechanical, be it boat, car etc. Great work.
Thanks Stu. Now I know what is inside these jockey wheels. My assembly has a grease nipple at the top that I have given a few squirts twice last summer. The lower tube I greased once and later I wiped it all off and used a dry silicone spray on it. I guess as the nipple is at the top of the outer tube it might be better for greasing the nut at the top of the lower tube to screw the tube all the way down and hope some of the new grease lands on the threads just above the "Nut" in the top of the inner/lower tube. Another thought I had about dust one the lower tube grease would be to lower the assembly all the way down and tape up the open end IF one was going to go a long way over dirt roads. Which I did one day and lead me to removing the grease and going with dry silicone. Just a thought. Cheers. PS: My boat is in the shed and we had our first snow today. She is in for the next 6 months. Darn!
Gday mate i think back and i was pedantic about lubing everything up after evey trip i would get the wd 40 and soak the tube and anything else i could find ,that trick with the bearings was taught to me by my father when i was about 8 years old and still use it at 58 great video .
I removed the roll pin from my handle and inserted a lynch pin to allow for quick removal of the handle in-situ. Makes it easier (and more likely) that I will actually do the regrease regularly.
I use the idle man's method of jockey wheel maintenance. The ones I have fall in two if you unscrew them to the max. I have a large plastic tub of used engine oil, once a year, or whenever the contraption starts to feel stiff, I unwind it till the bottom bit falls out, then suspend them with a bit of wire in the tub of engine oil, so that everything but the tyre and the handle is submerged, and let them soak for a day or two. Remove and let them drain for a bit, then reassemble and you're good to go. You could wipe the outsides off, if you're worried about such trivialities.
Stupendous video Stu. Roll pin, spring pin, and we call it a Drift pin in the States. I've heard them called all three through out my life... I have a Jockey wheel with a bent shaft on my trailer.cranking it only travels maybe 4 turns them locks up. Come summer I'm going to disassemble mine and try to straighten the shaft. Appreciate the Education here. Cheers****.
Hey Angelo, it sounds like everybody fights with these wheels at some stage in their life. Oh, and thanks for the third term to add it the list of names these pins have! :)
How about, disassemble it, grease it then take a piece of bicycle or small motorcycle inner tube and make a seal of sorts between the inner and outer tubes to keep the dust and dirt, etc, from contaminating the grease?. Just a short section of inner tube and perhaps a tie wrap to hold the upper section from sliding down. Hope this description makes sense.
I like the idea of making a modification to the basic design, and some sort of seal or dust jacket does sound like the way to go. I think we might be visiting this subject again!
As others have posted, I think the motorcycle/off road use shock absorber gaiter is a good way to go to keep the dust out of the tubes. Would an old bearing seal or O ring work to keep the grease in the between the tubes, because with the open end design, every raise /lower cycle is going to have some grease disappear. But with no mods, I think an annual clean and relube when you do the engine service is a good idea. As my trailer wheel is a basic one I don't have the 90 degree swivel plate mount system . There fore I take jockey wheel off while travelling the highways. Not sure it helps any, but my jockey wheel is about 10 years old. Copied an idea from further up though, I made a cover this morning after watching the vid . The cover is for the top so water doesn't go down the handle /drive shaft gap when the trailer is parked up.
Hey Ron, yeah, I do like the idea of a gaiter type arrangement, particularly when using a heavier grease. I'll have to see what I can find that will fit.
Hi Stu, Yup greasing up that shaft would bring on a few smiles from the lady viewers. Haha, anyway great video as always. My trailer jack is pretty new but haven't even thought about greasing it till now. Will do this for sure before next season
Thanks Tim, I'm interested to see how long this one lasts in salt water before it needs to be cleaned and re-greased. I don't mind doing that so much so long as the rust is kept at bay.
Great video...Something i have overlooked before....BTW if carby cleaner is going to affect the gal, it's not worth saving the gal !!...I'm with you on Lithium grease on the threads , but maybe Teflon chain lube on the tubes...obvious for no dirt buildup and I don't want grease on my shirt when I'm coupling up. Keep up the good work !
I decided to take a look at my seized jockey wheel. I was suprised to see a grease nipple on the wheel hub which is the part that is seized. Put the grease gun on it and it immediately snapped off in the grease gun. Took some vice grips and a fair amount of wrangling to get it back out of the guns nozzle. I won't be trying your tips on this jockey it turns out. I'll just be getting a new one.
Sounds like you are in the same situation as my first one. Having said that, you might be able to use your vice grips to wind the grease nipple out of the jockey wheel too. They are threaded in and easy to replace, but of course you would still need to free up the hub...
another helpful piece of tuition mate...I inherited a couple over the years with flat spots but I'm thinking they were left down for the journey (or part thereof) by accident. My current one has the non-swing fitting..rather a threaded fastener that is a bit painful..haven't used it since I re-powered with the Yamaha 40 as it weighs about 30 kilos more than the old motor..haha
If PB Blaster is hard to come by over there, another alternative that believe it or not works BETTER than PB, is a different kind of penetrant called "Kroil". It was originally designed for use in aviation maintenance, which explains the high price tag on it when you can find it. Of course, I have no idea if Kroil is any more available than PB in Australia, but you might want to give it a shot if you happen to come across some locally.
Ah, I have heard Kroil being mentioned several times, I'll see what I can find locally. I notice that it comes in 1 gallon tins in the US which might make ordering it more practical that aerosol cans.
It's funny that you mentioned getting in trouble over the brake pad/grease seal bit. I about shit when you put that rusty thing on top of that new grease 🤣
Great video Stu. I have a grease fitting in my unit and Grease it with "Permatex super lube with teflon" it works very well. I hope it's available on your side of the pond.
I have a shock absorber dust boot that is the perfect fit for our jockey wheel. seems to work OK, (and get interesting comments when people see it and ask why we fitted a shockie to our jockey wheel.. (I tell them I have a bumpy grass section that I have to push the trailer over.. some just say,.. "Ohh, that makes sense" - others are like Whiskey Tango Foxtrot ??? lol
Hey Jason, I really like the idea of fitting a dust boot, particularly when I am using a heavy grease like this. I'll have to see what I can find that is the right size.
Good video stu.You'll find the male end of the tube doesn't make contact with the female end at all as there's always clearance.The seizing occurs at the worm screw,threads and bearing side of things.I use melted parrafin wax in a spray bottle for corrosion resistance sprayed over all components.Winding them fully up/down periodically helps alot too.
Yeah, I agree that going through the full travel is a good idea. It seems that giving them regular attention is definitely going to be the only way to get them to last a long time.
Thanks for the how to, just purchased a boat with one of these and it will not turn well. The older gearing exposed ones work so much better but you lose the swing away.
Another great video have you ever heard of graphite dry lubricant doesn't attract dirt and dust i found out about it when working on a go cart torque converter lets the weight move with out dirt making it stick. wd 40 and pb make it in a spray can goes on like spry paint dont know how it hold up to salt water thou
On what we call a trailer jack (or junk) I had the same problem, which makes solo maneuvering of a boat into a cursing fit. So, I cut off the large original wheel at the base of the fork, leaving a nice flat flange as a platform. Then I bought a small, but rugged, 4" (102 mm) fork/wheel assembly from Farm & Fleet. It had swivel ball bearings, easily visually verifiable, so I slipped on a large o-ring that contracted admirably into the gap to conceal and "seal" them from road debris. That assembly was then easily bolted onto the old jack flange after the necessity of drilling 4 holes. Now the swiveling is at the wheel and very responsive; and I don't care a bit if the extension shaft fully seizes. Sometimes it's best if one can ignore a seizure. The design of such jacks is lacking, especially considering how easily they torque sideways and distort - they could use a synthetic alignment bushing at the tube's end to reduce internal mangling. Another trick: After initial install of the new jack, it exhibited quite a bit of wangling about on its mount, so I unfastened the tube from the base plate and instituted a heavy 3 or 4" ID snap ring between the elements, relieving much of the looseness (which is preferable, mostly, in women). Seems everything, even brand new, these days requires a bit of fine-tuning rework; especially the bargain bin items from the far east. Alas, what's an upgrade, really, if one hasn't had to refashion it some? The ritual of personalization... establishing true ownership via the bloodied-knuckle trademark.
I like your idea of just having the wheel at the base turn as there is much less surface area to corrode until the tube-in-tube they come with. Also, as you say, it is there to be seen (and cleaned) much more easily. Nice one!
Yeah being slack is a common oddity come’ff the jockey wheel, maybe drill hole and weld nut to near load bearing, that translate to a grease nipple- pump it often (@6month intervals) happy cranking
Well, I now know what I'm doing tomorrow.... servicing my near new jockey wheel ! Idea! - for protecting between the 2 tubes from corrosion - I once bought a mercury/ quicksilver engine protection spray that was kinda like crc / wd40 but it was more clear and dried a bit like a paint. It didn't seem to attract dust like other preservative sprays. I think it'd give good corrosion protection and hopefully not attract so much dust. Just had a quick look on their website, think it was the "corrosion guard" product. I'll grab some next time I'm going past a Mercury dealer.
Sounds like engine protection spray is worth giving a try. So far I can definitely say that this jockey wheel has stay very smooth, particularly compared to all our previous experiences of just spraying inside the tube with can lubricants.
Hi Stu! Great vid as always! if you're thinking about potential videos - i would really appreciate one on trailer springs and rebound clips corrosion. Maintenance etc.
good to see this. I just got one today from Amazon, used, so saved 20%. I need it to be a bit shorter, maybe 6 inches shorter for my application. It looks like I could achieve that cutting that thread down and reforming the flat on the end and drilling a new hole, and then taking the same amount out of the top tube. Am I right or missing something? Ta
Hello sir! Writing from the state's, finding your channel has inspired me to rewire and properly set up my cat fishing boat! So thank you! I was wondering if you could look at making an aluminum gas tank or at least shed whatever knowledge you might have would be most help. Keep up the great videos you are teaching me a lot!
Hi Stu, thanks for the video mate. I don't miss a one of them. I can't make it to Parsley Bay on that Saturday as the Minister for War and Finance is having a birthday the day before and I am taking her out to dinner on that Saturday night. Yeah I know, I am a groveller of the first order. Anyway I am about 400 + Ks from you so I cannot make it down and back in time. Another time perhaps. Cheers mate, Bruce.
These types of vids are gold for people that may be mechanically challenged 😒. Thanks for the lesson and, at times, witty delivery. Enjoying your vids Stu, I just got my first boat. The park your boat one I watched about 5 times👍
Another great video Stu. I’m lucky enough to have a grease nipple on my large trailers jockey wheel. I pump in a good marine grade grease one or twice a season the same time I do all the fittings on the outboard. So far so good. I guess with the models with no fitting a good practice would be to take it apart when brand new and give it a good cleaning and greasing with a marine or heavy duty grease. Just like the job you did with the red grease. The factory will never grease it that good. Better to do it yourself and do it right!
Hey Jack, it's interesting to hear that the larger wheels come with grease nipples already installed. Is it in the outer casing to add grease in between the two or does it get grease into the sealed part?
Dangar Marine the fitting is on top right above the crank handle. I'm not sure if the grease is getting forced all the way down the tube, but I do put quite a bit in there. I do notice some oily residue on the two halfs, so its possible that grease might be making it down there. It's an older jack made by a company called Fulton. I haven't had any issues with it for all the years I've owned it.
It was a bit of an experiment at the time but not I can safely say this is the longest this jockey wheel has ever stayed smooth for, it's definitely worth the effort.
Hi Jack, two stroke tuning is covered in other vids really. The mixture screw part of this vid is the same for two strokes ua-cam.com/video/bsHCMJnRY9A/v-deo.html This one is on carb sync for two strokes ua-cam.com/video/NnotQmnKxKM/v-deo.html and this one is on using a timing light ua-cam.com/video/RWtGZM9dh6g/v-deo.html
I don't even own a Boat anymore and still, watch your videos.....about time you got a Haircut and what the hell is up with "The Water Bottle"? wheres the Beer?.....Oh Thank God, Beer enters at 6:17 ....lmao... I love answering my own questions.... Great Videos Brother keep em coming...
For those telescoping metal tube sections that collect dust, maybe a dry lube (some sort of spray graphite) would be a less troublesome choice than a "wet" grease.
We tried a variety of dry lubricants first but none of them seemed to help with the corrosion. I think the heavy grease with a seal to keep the grease clean is going to be the way to go for us.
I think it is a no brained to periodically strip and grease the bar steward. Salt water is a hard task master.😉 I think the disadvantage of attracting dirt is the 'lesser of two weevils'.
So far it has been holding up pretty well with the grease on. It has only been a couple of weeks but in the past they would go do hill very fast no matter what spray we used. It will certainly be interesting to see as time goes by.
i was trying for the life of me to think what a jockey wheel was. duh if its hard to get blaster you can mix acetone and atf not quite as great but still good. i always put motor oi around the stem with the wheel extended then worked it up and down but then i never dealt with saltwater.
How would a Teflon Moly Oven Cure Spray Finish work? Product is a little expensive; but because it is an epoxy paint basically, it is extremely durable.
I am designing a RIB and would like to have two fuel tanks. What would you suggest for plumbing arrangement? I will have a de-water filter. Maybe a Y-valve and two separate bulbs, etc? This might make a good video BTW. Thanks Stu.
I like your jobs. Do not you need a helper mechanic? It is true that my specialty is truck mechanics but I have also repaired ship engines. I am in Spain but I would like to go to a country like yours to work and learn new things.
Spray the tubes with polyurethane or paint. It'll scratch and wear over time, but keep the salt off of most of the surface. You can add grease to it then. I'd try it myself, but am 1,600 km from the nearest salt water!
Hey Stu, I sail a trailer sailer yacht with a Toyhatsu 9.8 2 stroke in the well of the cockpit and somtimes the exhaust gases hang around in the cockpit which makes the engine run really bad, I suspect this is coming from the idle port which is on the rear of the leg above the water line. what is the purpose of this port? can it be blocked ,or a pipe stuck in it and re routed?
Hi mate, that exhaust relief port is quite a problem with some yachts. Here is a forum post where people have just re-routed it using some flexible pipe www.pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?322-Outboard-Exhaust
Hi Donald, I haven't done a fuel tank video so ask on any video. Do it as a new comment though as I don't get good notifications for replies to old comments so I'm likely to miss it.
Good video. I battle with this same issue as well. Have you ever tried using boiling water to remove grease from hard to access part like this? Certainly NO Chemical solution?
Dangar Marine cheers. The one we have is an American Johnson 55hp 1968 outboard. Uses two wires with alternating positives for the gears and a spring dog leg for both negatives to enter forward. Finding anything on it is a nightmare.
Dangar Marine I think like yours its too far gone. Oh well a new one with a propper maintenance regime! Makes you wonder why doesn't somebody design one that lasts longer than a few years!
Hello my name is Tim and I have a question I have a 200 horsepower Evinrude Outboard and my question is I filled it up with non ethanol gas when 15 miles out the whole round trip is 30 miles but the the engine only would go 8 to 12 knots and I couldn't understand why what's up full frontal but I didn't make it all the way in because I ran out of gas can you tell me what you think the problem might be so I can get this engine fixed it because without it I have no boat like I said I had a full tank I had to call Seto to get me back in and it only went 8 to 12 knots I change many components on an engine thinking it would change but nothing it would idle fine and it would do great on the holes but once it was under a load it was 8 to 12 knots and that's all it did so if you have any idea how to fix that I sure would appreciate it my name is Tim Crews I live in Riverview Florida thank you
Hi Tim. I would start by taking the plugs out and seeing what colour they are. If they are very black you might find it is running rich which would give you poor performance and fuel economy.
Man I love your videos .. hey can you answer a question for me? ... I'm having trouble finding the serial # for my outboard so I can order carb kits .. where all can I find the serial # posted on the out boards ?
pimpshack81 It should be on the transom bracket. I bought a 97 Yamaha before that had an 86 transom bracket. So I tried googling every number on motor block to no avail. I called Yamaha and I found a sticker on the block that Yamaha was able to match.
It's a brand name anti corrosion spray. I have a can and it is good. Kinda expensive though. They say it's used on aviation and has a good reputation. I use it to clean my motor and it looks brand new.
Interesting. You sure are right-on the mark about greases attracting and holding dirt and grit. Shame you couldn't easily revive the first one you began working on. I was thinking (while you were attacking) that inverting it and admitting a liquid-based penetrant might have been the way to go simply for freeing it. Sad to see you "give up on it", but autopsies do provide a wealth of information about what led the victim to end up on the Doctor's table. Sometimes a sacrifice doesn't end up being in vain, if it can help the living go further. I believe that periodic attention is the best way. Just like realizing that at some point you need to inspect lights, tires, brakes, wheel bearings, same goes for the landing gear or dollies, and the hitch lock too. Years ago, a wise fellow I met along my journey had himself been handed down a recipe of a good liquid penetrant with some staying power. He would buy bulk WD-40 (in 5-Litre square cans) and mix it 50-50 with cheap ATF (bought in 20L pails). He put the mixture in squirt bottles (with the WD-40 logo) and found that the WD-40 helped it to creep and get into places, and the automatic trans fluid oil would remain behind long after the WD-40 had evaporated. Today we have PB Blaster and other advanced formulae of products conveniently available in small compressed cans, but I always think back to that pink WD-40 mixture that Ed used back in the early 90's. Thanks for the look inside one of those tube-leg dollies. Pretty simple, yet effective design for helping to take the strain off of having to "Armstrong" a loose trailer around when moving it.
Hey Stan, I think my plan at this stage is to leave the wheel retracted completely when not in use. My hope is that the thicker grease will fill the gap a bit more and exclude air, but we'll see, it's all an experiment at this stage. I didn't show it, but I did have the original upside down with Wurth Rost Off sprayed now the gap, but even after a day it didn't do much. Oh well, I always love to cut things open and as you say, it gives you some valuable information for your money. :)
Yeah, I've tried something similar as chain lubes, particular ones for dirt bikes, are designed not to attract dirt but so far nothing has made a huge difference.
Hello! I really need your help. I'm from Romania and I want you to help me if you can. I have a four-stroke F80 yamaha engine and I have a plug that does not know where to connect. please give me an email address to send you a picture you can help me. thank you
This video was very helpful mate. I love the way you explain evrything. I have a small trailer rental business and jockey wheels were a nightmare until now. I appriciate all the work you have done into breaking every component down. Keep up the great work legend!
Thanks for posting. I really enjoyed watching and it speaks to the importance of preventative maintenance. Doing this with a new product will stand in the long run. I neglected this in the past and had corrosion problems - and I boat in fresh non salt water!!! Thanks Stu
Hey John, it certainly is true that a bit of preventative maintenance can go a long way. I'm jealous of you guys that boat in fresh water!
Thanks Stu, this video helped me make one useable jockey wheel out of two damaged ones. You sir are a legend.
You are a very comprehensive mechanic sir. Even the small jockey wheel on a trailer needs love too.
If you had one that was seized up could you get it going by spraying it with half a can of
" Start Ya Bastard " ?
Haha as you can see the fact there is a product with that name somewhere on this world
has changed my life. Haha.
I can see a future little Blue Pill to help men with
Erectile Dysfunction also called " Start Ya Bastard ".
Hey Stu. Your video from last month jelled with me on the weekend, and I rolled up my sleeves and gave it a Dangar Marine once-over. Should have done it months ago. It works so much better now. Thanks Mate !
Thanks Stephen, I was just thinking yesterday how good ours are still feeling. Wish I had done this years ago.
Loved the cylindrical/grease reference! Another great video thanks Stu.
Realise this is an older vid, but I find for trailers that sit outside, the moisture seeping in through the top under the handle is what does most of the damage. I just use an upturned plastic bucket over the full handle and find it saves the lubrication from dissipating and the rust taking hold. I know nothing about boats but just found you channel and love the way you explain things. I guess mechanical is still mechanical, be it boat, car etc. Great work.
Awesome video mate. It helped that the jockey wheel you worked on, was identical to mine!
Thanks Stu. Now I know what is inside these jockey wheels. My assembly has a grease nipple at the top that I have given a few squirts twice last summer. The lower tube I greased once and later I wiped it all off and used a dry silicone spray on it. I guess as the nipple is at the top of the outer tube it might be better for greasing the nut at the top of the lower tube to screw the tube all the way down and hope some of the new grease lands on the threads just above the "Nut" in the top of the inner/lower tube. Another thought I had about dust one the lower tube grease would be to lower the assembly all the way down and tape up the open end IF one was going to go a long way over dirt roads. Which I did one day and lead me to removing the grease and going with dry silicone. Just a thought. Cheers. PS: My boat is in the shed and we had our first snow today. She is in for the next 6 months. Darn!
Did you see Hawaii had snow today!
How's the dry silicone spray working out for your jockey wheel?
Gday mate i think back and i was pedantic about lubing everything up after evey trip i would get the wd 40 and soak the tube and anything else i could find ,that trick with the bearings was taught to me by my father when i was about 8 years old and still use it at 58 great video .
A bit of regular maintenance goes a long way, that's for sure.
I removed the roll pin from my handle and inserted a lynch pin to allow for quick removal of the handle in-situ. Makes it easier (and more likely) that I will actually do the regrease regularly.
That's a great idea Jesse, if I ever do a follow up on this video that tip will get a mention!
I use the idle man's method of jockey wheel maintenance. The ones I have fall in two if you unscrew them to the max. I have a large plastic tub of used engine oil, once a year, or whenever the contraption starts to feel stiff, I unwind it till the bottom bit falls out, then suspend them with a bit of wire in the tub of engine oil, so that everything but the tyre and the handle is submerged, and let them soak for a day or two. Remove and let them drain for a bit, then reassemble and you're good to go. You could wipe the outsides off, if you're worried about such trivialities.
Sounds like a good approach. I like any method where you can sit and drink beer while it does its thing. ;)
Stupendous video Stu. Roll pin, spring pin, and we call it a Drift pin in the States. I've heard them called all three through out my life... I have a Jockey wheel with a bent shaft on my trailer.cranking it only travels maybe 4 turns them locks up. Come summer I'm going to disassemble mine and try to straighten the shaft. Appreciate the Education here. Cheers****.
Hey Angelo, it sounds like everybody fights with these wheels at some stage in their life. Oh, and thanks for the third term to add it the list of names these pins have! :)
Your welcome my Friend.
How about, disassemble it, grease it then take a piece of bicycle or small motorcycle inner tube and make a seal of sorts between the inner and outer tubes to keep the dust and dirt, etc, from contaminating the grease?. Just a short section of inner tube and perhaps a tie wrap to hold the upper section from sliding down. Hope this description makes sense.
I like the idea of making a modification to the basic design, and some sort of seal or dust jacket does sound like the way to go. I think we might be visiting this subject again!
Thanks Stu...another helpful Vid! The bearing on mine has collapsed.
Exactly what I needed to save my jockey wheel thank you!
This one has lasted so much better than any previous one, I'll definitely be doing this again next time.
Another really great video Stu. Thank you!
Thanks! You're welcome John. :)
As others have posted, I think the motorcycle/off road use shock absorber gaiter is a good way to go to keep the dust out of the tubes. Would an old bearing seal or O ring work to keep the grease in the between the tubes, because with the open end design, every raise /lower cycle is going to have some grease disappear. But with no mods, I think an annual clean and relube when you do the engine service is a good idea. As my trailer wheel is a basic one I don't have the 90 degree swivel plate mount system . There fore I take jockey wheel off while travelling the highways. Not sure it helps any, but my jockey wheel is about 10 years old. Copied an idea from further up though, I made a cover this morning after watching the vid . The cover is for the top so water doesn't go down the handle /drive shaft gap when the trailer is parked up.
Hey Ron, yeah, I do like the idea of a gaiter type arrangement, particularly when using a heavier grease. I'll have to see what I can find that will fit.
Hi Stu, Yup greasing up that shaft would bring on a few smiles from the lady viewers. Haha, anyway great video as always. My trailer jack is pretty new but haven't even thought about greasing it till now. Will do this for sure before next season
Thanks Tim, I'm interested to see how long this one lasts in salt water before it needs to be cleaned and re-greased. I don't mind doing that so much so long as the rust is kept at bay.
Fantastic. Just what I needed to service my Jockey wheel. Thanks.
Your videos are so good, thanks so much
Great video...Something i have overlooked before....BTW if carby cleaner is going to affect the gal, it's not worth saving the gal !!...I'm with you on Lithium grease on the threads , but maybe Teflon chain lube on the tubes...obvious for no dirt buildup and I don't want grease on my shirt when I'm coupling up. Keep up the good work !
I decided to take a look at my seized jockey wheel. I was suprised to see a grease nipple on the wheel hub which is the part that is seized. Put the grease gun on it and it immediately snapped off in the grease gun. Took some vice grips and a fair amount of wrangling to get it back out of the guns nozzle. I won't be trying your tips on this jockey it turns out. I'll just be getting a new one.
Sounds like you are in the same situation as my first one. Having said that, you might be able to use your vice grips to wind the grease nipple out of the jockey wheel too. They are threaded in and easy to replace, but of course you would still need to free up the hub...
another helpful piece of tuition mate...I inherited a couple over the years with flat spots but I'm thinking they were left down for the journey (or part thereof) by accident. My current one has the non-swing fitting..rather a threaded fastener that is a bit painful..haven't used it since I re-powered with the Yamaha 40 as it weighs about 30 kilos more than the old motor..haha
Ha! That certainly is one good way to get a decent flat spot on a jockey wheel!
If PB Blaster is hard to come by over there, another alternative that believe it or not works BETTER than PB, is a different kind of penetrant called "Kroil". It was originally designed for use in aviation maintenance, which explains the high price tag on it when you can find it. Of course, I have no idea if Kroil is any more available than PB in Australia, but you might want to give it a shot if you happen to come across some locally.
Ah, I have heard Kroil being mentioned several times, I'll see what I can find locally. I notice that it comes in 1 gallon tins in the US which might make ordering it more practical that aerosol cans.
Ive started to drink coopers pale ale , its really nice
Good man! :)
It's funny that you mentioned getting in trouble over the brake pad/grease seal bit. I about shit when you put that rusty thing on top of that new grease 🤣
Great video Stu. I have a grease fitting in my unit and Grease it with "Permatex super lube with teflon" it works very well. I hope it's available on your side of the pond.
Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out. There are plenty of Permatex products sold in Australia so it should be available.
I have a shock absorber dust boot that is the perfect fit for our jockey wheel. seems to work OK, (and get interesting comments when people see it and ask why we fitted a shockie to our jockey wheel.. (I tell them I have a bumpy grass section that I have to push the trailer over.. some just say,.. "Ohh, that makes sense" - others are like Whiskey Tango Foxtrot ??? lol
Hey Jason, I really like the idea of fitting a dust boot, particularly when I am using a heavy grease like this. I'll have to see what I can find that is the right size.
Good video stu.You'll find the male end of the tube doesn't make contact with the female end at all as there's always clearance.The seizing occurs at the worm screw,threads and bearing side of things.I use melted parrafin wax in a spray bottle for corrosion resistance sprayed over all components.Winding them fully up/down periodically helps alot too.
Yeah, I agree that going through the full travel is a good idea. It seems that giving them regular attention is definitely going to be the only way to get them to last a long time.
Thanks for the how to, just purchased a boat with one of these and it will not turn well. The older gearing exposed ones work so much better but you lose the swing away.
Another great video have you ever heard of graphite dry lubricant doesn't attract dirt and dust i found out about it when working on a go cart torque converter lets the weight move with out dirt making it stick. wd 40 and pb make it in a spray can goes on like spry paint dont know how it hold up to salt water thou
Hi mate. We have some dry graphite lubricant in the shop but I normally only use it in locks and things like that.
Good video. Never gave it much thought, now I know what to do my boat jockey wheel. (it sticks)
Thanks mate. Fingers crossed you can get it running smooth again!
Great video Stu😁
Thanks Jim! :)
On what we call a trailer jack (or junk) I had the same problem, which makes solo maneuvering of a boat into a cursing fit. So, I cut off the large original wheel at the base of the fork, leaving a nice flat flange as a platform. Then I bought a small, but rugged, 4" (102 mm) fork/wheel assembly from Farm & Fleet. It had swivel ball bearings, easily visually verifiable, so I slipped on a large o-ring that contracted admirably into the gap to conceal and "seal" them from road debris. That assembly was then easily bolted onto the old jack flange after the necessity of drilling 4 holes. Now the swiveling is at the wheel and very responsive; and I don't care a bit if the extension shaft fully seizes. Sometimes it's best if one can ignore a seizure.
The design of such jacks is lacking, especially considering how easily they torque sideways and distort - they could use a synthetic alignment bushing at the tube's end to reduce internal mangling.
Another trick: After initial install of the new jack, it exhibited quite a bit of wangling about on its mount, so I unfastened the tube from the base plate and instituted a heavy 3 or 4" ID snap ring between the elements, relieving much of the looseness (which is preferable, mostly, in women).
Seems everything, even brand new, these days requires a bit of fine-tuning rework; especially the bargain bin items from the far east. Alas, what's an upgrade, really, if one hasn't had to refashion it some? The ritual of personalization... establishing true ownership via the bloodied-knuckle trademark.
I like your idea of just having the wheel at the base turn as there is much less surface area to corrode until the tube-in-tube they come with. Also, as you say, it is there to be seen (and cleaned) much more easily. Nice one!
Yeah being slack is a common oddity come’ff the jockey wheel, maybe drill hole and weld nut to near load bearing, that translate to a grease nipple- pump it often (@6month intervals) happy cranking
Excellent video - exactly the advice I was looking for.
Well, I now know what I'm doing tomorrow.... servicing my near new jockey wheel !
Idea! - for protecting between the 2 tubes from corrosion - I once bought a mercury/ quicksilver engine protection spray that was kinda like crc / wd40 but it was more clear and dried a bit like a paint. It didn't seem to attract dust like other preservative sprays. I think it'd give good corrosion protection and hopefully not attract so much dust. Just had a quick look on their website, think it was the "corrosion guard" product. I'll grab some next time I'm going past a Mercury dealer.
Sounds like engine protection spray is worth giving a try. So far I can definitely say that this jockey wheel has stay very smooth, particularly compared to all our previous experiences of just spraying inside the tube with can lubricants.
Hi Stu! Great vid as always! if you're thinking about potential videos - i would really appreciate one on trailer springs and rebound clips corrosion. Maintenance etc.
Thanks mate. Definitely planning a few videos on trailers soon.
good to see this. I just got one today from Amazon, used, so saved 20%. I need it to be a bit shorter, maybe 6 inches shorter for my application. It looks like I could achieve that cutting that thread down and reforming the flat on the end and drilling a new hole, and then taking the same amount out of the top tube. Am I right or missing something? Ta
Hello sir! Writing from the state's, finding your channel has inspired me to rewire and properly set up my cat fishing boat! So thank you! I was wondering if you could look at making an aluminum gas tank or at least shed whatever knowledge you might have would be most help. Keep up the great videos you are teaching me a lot!
Hey Richard. Yes! I've been planning to do a video on welding up a petrol tank for ages, including putting a fuel sender in it for a gauge.
Dangar Marine looking forward to watching it thanks a lot sir
Something like a shock boot might be nice...
Thanks mate. Just what i needed
If ever i visit australia i would like to come by and say hello.
Cool.
Very helpful video again 👍🏼
Thanks Stephen!
Hi Stu, thanks for the video mate. I don't miss a one of them.
I can't make it to Parsley Bay on that Saturday as the Minister for War and Finance is having a birthday the day before and I am taking her out to dinner on that Saturday night. Yeah I know, I am a groveller of the first order. Anyway I am about 400 + Ks from you so I cannot make it down and back in time. Another time perhaps.
Cheers mate, Bruce.
Thanks Bruce. Shame we won't see you at Parsley Bay, but I do admire you prioritising the Minister's birthday. There will be other meetups! :)
nice work Stu.
Thanks Will! :)
These types of vids are gold for people that may be mechanically challenged 😒. Thanks for the lesson and, at times, witty delivery. Enjoying your vids Stu, I just got my first boat. The park your boat one I watched about 5 times👍
Very nice bro.....you tell us all breefly.
Thanks mate. :)
Another great video Stu. I’m lucky enough to have a grease nipple on my large trailers jockey wheel. I pump in a good marine grade grease one or twice a season the same time I do all the fittings on the outboard. So far so good. I guess with the models with no fitting a good practice would be to take it apart when brand new and give it a good cleaning and greasing with a marine or heavy duty grease. Just like the job you did with the red grease. The factory will never grease it that good. Better to do it yourself and do it right!
Hey Jack, it's interesting to hear that the larger wheels come with grease nipples already installed. Is it in the outer casing to add grease in between the two or does it get grease into the sealed part?
Dangar Marine the fitting is on top right above the crank handle. I'm not sure if the grease is getting forced all the way down the tube, but I do put quite a bit in there. I do notice some oily residue on the two halfs, so its possible that grease might be making it down there. It's an older jack made by a company called Fulton. I haven't had any issues with it for all the years I've owned it.
Great vid Stu .. I have been wondering on the best way to keep the jockey wheel running free; had been ‘cheating’ with the old WD
It was a bit of an experiment at the time but not I can safely say this is the longest this jockey wheel has ever stayed smooth for, it's definitely worth the effort.
All we are saying, is give grease a chance.
John Lennon should have been a mechanic. ;)
Wish I could be at the meet up Stu. I would really like to meet you and you friends, your doggie too
We'll have one in the US one day Tim!
You should have mixed transmission fluid with acetone and it would a freed up that old rusty one. Wot a waste, cob.
good video again stu is there any chance u can do a 2 stroke tuning video ? cheers.
Hi Jack, two stroke tuning is covered in other vids really. The mixture screw part of this vid is the same for two strokes ua-cam.com/video/bsHCMJnRY9A/v-deo.html This one is on carb sync for two strokes ua-cam.com/video/NnotQmnKxKM/v-deo.html and this one is on using a timing light ua-cam.com/video/RWtGZM9dh6g/v-deo.html
Dangar Marine thanks stu !
This is so helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome Phillip.
I don't even own a Boat anymore and still, watch your videos.....about time you got a Haircut and what the hell is up with "The Water Bottle"? wheres the Beer?.....Oh Thank God, Beer enters at 6:17 ....lmao... I love answering my own questions.... Great Videos Brother keep em coming...
Thanks Eric! ;)
For those telescoping metal tube sections that collect dust, maybe a dry lube (some sort of spray graphite) would be a less troublesome choice than a "wet" grease.
We tried a variety of dry lubricants first but none of them seemed to help with the corrosion. I think the heavy grease with a seal to keep the grease clean is going to be the way to go for us.
Mate i think a toothbrush that has an extension taped to it would work good to get grease in the tube
I think it is a no brained to periodically strip and grease the bar steward. Salt water is a hard task master.😉 I think the disadvantage of attracting dirt is the 'lesser of two weevils'.
So far it has been holding up pretty well with the grease on. It has only been a couple of weeks but in the past they would go do hill very fast no matter what spray we used. It will certainly be interesting to see as time goes by.
Good video. For $70 I'm happy to just buy a new one every 2 summers.
That's kinda been our approach in the past, but I'm still going to be interested to see how much extra life we get out of it after a good greasing.
I must be getting old, because I resent having to replace things that should last.
Do you ever use Lanox Stu..great stuff It never goes away
Yes, I do quite like Lanox, you can't beat a bit of fleece grease in some situations.
i was trying for the life of me to think what a jockey wheel was. duh if its hard to get blaster you can mix acetone and atf not quite as great but still good. i always put motor oi around the stem with the wheel extended then worked it up and down but then i never dealt with saltwater.
Yes, an ATF / Acetone mix is a good one for freeing up corrosion, I'm hoping this grease will prevent it getting that bad. Time will tell!
How would a Teflon Moly Oven Cure Spray Finish work? Product is a little expensive;
but because it is an epoxy paint basically, it is extremely durable.
I am designing a RIB and would like to have two fuel tanks. What would you suggest for plumbing arrangement? I will have a de-water filter. Maybe a Y-valve and two separate bulbs, etc? This might make a good video BTW. Thanks Stu.
Having a separate bulbs is a good way to go, it would make an interesting video!
It would make an interesting video. Thanks.
Love your Videos, maybe you can show sum stuff about Jetdrives one Day, avid Jetboater from the Canadian Arctic.
There aren't many Jetboats around here unfortunately, but I do think they are cool so if the chance comes up I'll definitely do some vids on one. :)
Hey, could you do a video on how to change a timing belt. Think that would be usefull, btw love your videos.
Hi Robert, yes, I will be doing that on my Honda before too much longer.
I like your jobs. Do not you need a helper mechanic? It is true that my specialty is truck mechanics but I have also repaired ship engines. I am in Spain but I would like to go to a country like yours to work and learn new things.
Thanks mate, unfortunately we have more people at the workshop than we can afford to keep really, but you never know what the future holds. :)
Spray the tubes with polyurethane or paint. It'll scratch and wear over time, but keep the salt off of most of the surface. You can add grease to it then.
I'd try it myself, but am 1,600 km from the nearest salt water!
Hi Stu, keep the vids coming mate. Have you tried inox, great stuff for fighting corrosion from salt.
Hey Paul. Yeah, I've used Inox many times, and it is good stuff. I also like Lanox a lot.
I love the smell of LANOX in the morning. Magic stuff
Like anything with wheels, regular maintenance is the way I'm going.
Thank you 😊
Hey Stu, I sail a trailer sailer yacht with a Toyhatsu 9.8 2 stroke in the well of the cockpit and somtimes the exhaust gases hang around in the cockpit which makes the engine run really bad, I suspect this is coming from the idle port which is on the rear of the leg above the water line. what is the purpose of this port? can it be blocked ,or a pipe stuck in it and re routed?
Hi mate, that exhaust relief port is quite a problem with some yachts. Here is a forum post where people have just re-routed it using some flexible pipe www.pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?322-Outboard-Exhaust
Thanx Stu.
Thanks Stu. I have a fuel tank question. Should I look for a fuel tank video to comment (question) on?
Hi Donald, I haven't done a fuel tank video so ask on any video. Do it as a new comment though as I don't get good notifications for replies to old comments so I'm likely to miss it.
Good video. I battle with this same issue as well. Have you ever tried using boiling water to remove grease from hard to access part like this? Certainly NO Chemical solution?
Heat is a great way to soften grease. A bit of degreaser in the water would also help a lot.
thanks for sharing
Welcome. :)
Mine has been pissing me off I’m gonna have a crack 👍
Your funny and informative thanks
Why not clean the bearing with a solvent, I use brake cleaner for fishing reels, for the bearing?
good vid
Excellent 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Can you make a video on hydroelectric gears on an outboard 😂iam lost and could do with some help.
Can't say I've ever worked on one before. If I ever get my hands on one I will do a video though!
Dangar Marine cheers. The one we have is an American Johnson 55hp 1968 outboard. Uses two wires with alternating positives for the gears and a spring dog leg for both negatives to enter forward. Finding anything on it is a nightmare.
CAn you get the wheels with real bearing s in them, not just solid rubber ?
I'm pretty sure the larger jockey wheels start to come with bearings are grease nipples etc.
The pivoting part on mine is stuck. Do you have a suggestion on repairing this section of the trailer?
I would try a bit of penetrating oil and some heat.
Thanks
Omg this is todays job.... alas i think its probably too far gone.... another trip to whitties!
Good luck John, I hope it went well!
Dangar Marine I think like yours its too far gone. Oh well a new one with a propper maintenance regime! Makes you wonder why doesn't somebody design one that lasts longer than a few years!
Do you have an actual workshop?
Hi
Good work
How is charli???
Thanks mate, I haven't seen Charlie for over six months, but I believe she's fine.
How has your jockey wheel gone since you did this video on greasing it?
It's gone really well. I wasn't sure if the grease would go hard but it has stayed smooth long after all the other ones seized up.
#UKZNsquad 2019
I'll ship you some PB blaster if you want, message me your info sir.. The stuff is sold all over around me, although I prefer Aerokroil..
Our workshop address is Unit 15 / 4 Hamley Rd Mount Kuring-Gai NSW 2080 Australia. I'd love to try some out and see how it goes! :)
Добрый день.снимите пожалуйста видео как подключить к мотору ymaha f 30-60 мультиприборы,или неоригинальные приборы такие как kus.спасибо.
Hello my name is Tim and I have a question I have a 200 horsepower Evinrude Outboard and my question is I filled it up with non ethanol gas when 15 miles out the whole round trip is 30 miles but the the engine only would go 8 to 12 knots and I couldn't understand why what's up full frontal but I didn't make it all the way in because I ran out of gas can you tell me what you think the problem might be so I can get this engine fixed it because without it I have no boat like I said I had a full tank I had to call Seto to get me back in and it only went 8 to 12 knots I change many components on an engine thinking it would change but nothing it would idle fine and it would do great on the holes but once it was under a load it was 8 to 12 knots and that's all it did so if you have any idea how to fix that I sure would appreciate it my name is Tim Crews I live in Riverview Florida thank you
Hi Tim. I would start by taking the plugs out and seeing what colour they are. If they are very black you might find it is running rich which would give you poor performance and fuel economy.
What about anti seize?
Man I love your videos .. hey can you answer a question for me? ... I'm having trouble finding the serial # for my outboard so I can order carb kits .. where all can I find the serial # posted on the out boards ?
Most outboards have the serial number as a sticker on the mounting bracket, they can sometimes be on the Welsh plugs on the block too.
pimpshack81 It should be on the transom bracket. I bought a 97 Yamaha before that had an 86 transom bracket. So I tried googling every number on motor block to no avail. I called Yamaha and I found a sticker on the block that Yamaha was able to match.
Dangar Marine thank you sir
jimbo gasoline my motor is a 1977 Mercury 850EL 85H.P..... as soon as I can look at it in the day light I'm going to search further
pimpshack81 Yeah , I have a 50 merc. The El should mean elect start long shaft. I have elpto, electric start, long shaft, power tilt.
Corrosion X
Nobody's friend!
It's a brand name anti corrosion spray. I have a can and it is good. Kinda expensive though. They say it's used on aviation and has a good reputation. I use it to clean my motor and it looks brand new.
first
;)
Love your video's stu!! Keep them coming.
Thanks mate!
Interesting. You sure are right-on the mark about greases attracting and holding dirt and grit. Shame you couldn't easily revive the first one you began working on. I was thinking (while you were attacking) that inverting it and admitting a liquid-based penetrant might have been the way to go simply for freeing it. Sad to see you "give up on it", but autopsies do provide a wealth of information about what led the victim to end up on the Doctor's table. Sometimes a sacrifice doesn't end up being in vain, if it can help the living go further. I believe that periodic attention is the best way. Just like realizing that at some point you need to inspect lights, tires, brakes, wheel bearings, same goes for the landing gear or dollies, and the hitch lock too. Years ago, a wise fellow I met along my journey had himself been handed down a recipe of a good liquid penetrant with some staying power. He would buy bulk WD-40 (in 5-Litre square cans) and mix it 50-50 with cheap ATF (bought in 20L pails). He put the mixture in squirt bottles (with the WD-40 logo) and found that the WD-40 helped it to creep and get into places, and the automatic trans fluid oil would remain behind long after the WD-40 had evaporated. Today we have PB Blaster and other advanced formulae of products conveniently available in small compressed cans, but I always think back to that pink WD-40 mixture that Ed used back in the early 90's. Thanks for the look inside one of those tube-leg dollies. Pretty simple, yet effective design for helping to take the strain off of having to "Armstrong" a loose trailer around when moving it.
Hey Stan, I think my plan at this stage is to leave the wheel retracted completely when not in use. My hope is that the thicker grease will fill the gap a bit more and exclude air, but we'll see, it's all an experiment at this stage. I didn't show it, but I did have the original upside down with Wurth Rost Off sprayed now the gap, but even after a day it didn't do much. Oh well, I always love to cut things open and as you say, it gives you some valuable information for your money. :)
I use cable and chain lube.
Yeah, I've tried something similar as chain lubes, particular ones for dirt bikes, are designed not to attract dirt but so far nothing has made a huge difference.
Hello! I really need your help. I'm from Romania and I want you to help me if you can. I have a four-stroke F80 yamaha engine and I have a plug that does not know where to connect. please give me an email address to send you a picture you can help me. thank you