I did this on my 2022 Rosso and ended up having to take it to the dealer for them the adjust throttle bodies and TPS. Before I took it there, the bike would barely start. If it did start, I would have to blip the throttle a few times to keep it running and even when it stayed running, it sounded like it was on the verge of dying. NOW it runs and sounds like a beast. Just some info for anyone with a E5 model
@@pkplayer358 that’s when the issues started. Only thing I can think of is that with the butterfly valve staying open, the A/F is thrown off enough to cause a problem. I imagine these bikes are tuned and manufactured very precisely and it wouldn’t take much to mess up the equilibrium
Thanks for posting your video! I just installed the ESE-A01 on my 2018 Dragster, after getting the "MALFUNCTION" warning message which once you slow down to a near stop switches to a "FAULT-EXHAUST VALVE" message. If you have a Dragster, here are some bits of advice that may be useful: No big fairings on a Dragster, but you do need to remove the Belly pan. Four screws with a 5mm Allen bit for those. The Servo Motor lives behind a small black plastic cover on the left side of the bike. Two 4mm Allen screws to remove that. I could NOT figure out how to remove the servo motor itself, until I noticed the motor coming a bit loose after I removed the cover. You can gently pull it right off of the two mounting posts (where you just removed the two screws)! No need to unscrew the four tiny phillips head screws to access the guts of the servo motor (like I did). But when I removed that cover, the Exhaust Valve snapped into the open position (which I've read is how it should happen). You want the exhaust valve in the open position! The rest of the removal of the cables, bolts and screws for the mechanism are just like in this video. There is a foil-like heat shield that was between the Servo Motor and the black plastic cover. I figured I should leave it on the bike, and in fact, I adhered the ESE-A01 to that heat shield, which then goes back into place when you reattach the black cover. I found it helpful to have the two 4mm Allen screws in the holes already when I reattached the black cover. Everything went back together rather more smoothly than I thought it would (because I always think I'm going to mess something up)! I didn't film anything because I don't have a decent camera with which to do that, but I wanted to be helpful by putting these hints in the comments. So there you go!
I have removed that entire assembly and put the servo elimintor on it. Still driving around with a Stop Engine, exhaust valve error. I haven't been bothered to try to get the code cleared yet. I'm lazy! Lol. It's still on my list. I've heard other ppl just leave the motor there and ignore it. :)
Cool bike! A Healtech guy told me ESE-A01 (harness label code number is 210708 or later) now can fix also FI on the dash on Euro 4 models. Healtech also introduces FI cleaner tool for Euro 4 model (FIC-MV-01for F3 675 2018-2019).
I get that ENG valve error but it goes away. But it sounds like my exhaust flap is closed. I increased speed to 100 and still sounds closed. The wires on my bike are gone it just has the module on the exhaust but how can i force it open ??? It's decreasing horsepower because of that crap
Is it possible the error code will go away on it's own? I put a qd exhaust slip-on on my '14 F4 and that error code pops up every so often, but then will disappear just as randomly. My exhaust came with the healtech servo eliminator but I didn't install it, as I read on the mv forum that it would be hit or miss as to whether it would work or not. Also, you have to take off the gas tank and airbox to get at the module so it's a HUGE pita. According to healtech, mv electrical systems are wonky (at least the F4's) for lack of a better term. Also, you might consider putting 1/4 turn fasteners (Dzus) on to replace all of the fairing screws. They're expensive but SO worth it. They make such a huge difference, especially with hard-to-reach fasteners. I 'm still kicking myself for not putting them on my 748 and 848.
I contacted Bayside Performance where I bought it from. They were kinda saying if the error was present when you install the ESE, you will likely need a shop to clear the error. And that seems to be the case here as the error will not clear on it's own. Aparently there is a diag port under the rear seat. My local guy says he does not have the correct plug so I need to try the MV Shop, so I will update on that shortly. I'll look into those fasteners, I think I know the ones you mean. F4. Yummmy !
Interesting idea. Depends on battery location I guess. I suspect on this bike it could mean dismantling half of the bike tho. Unless I can just pop a fuse.
Nice and clear video! I have a Brutale (2017) so i do not need to do the hassle with the fairing. Did the bike get more rough on lower RPM with the module? I have read so.
Hi Hellcat. Ya I have you on instagram. Once you remove that cable assembly that controls the exhaust, the mechanism will open automatically. I still need to clear my error tho at a shop even though I put the servo eliminator in.
Yo estoy en México tengo la mv agusta f3 2015 y le cuesta trabajo encenderla , la eh visto y y ya no tengo los chicotes que abren la válvula ya no los tiene y solo la empuje y prendió y me dijeron que para borrar el código debería de volver a prender la moto empujándola y en segunda y si fue ah si como se borró el código del tablero, solo que a 6 a 7 rpm la moto se ahoga y ya pasando eso se establece
@@isramtz46 Google translate says.. I am in Mexico I have the mv agusta f3 2015 and it costs work to turn it on, the eh seen and and I no longer have the guys who open the valve no longer have them and just push it and turned on and told me that to erase the code I should turn the bike back on pushing it and second and if it was ah if how the code was deleted from the dashboard, only that at 6 at 7 rpm the bike drowns and already passing that is established
I did this on my 2022 Rosso and ended up having to take it to the dealer for them the adjust throttle bodies and TPS. Before I took it there, the bike would barely start. If it did start, I would have to blip the throttle a few times to keep it running and even when it stayed running, it sounded like it was on the verge of dying. NOW it runs and sounds like a beast. Just some info for anyone with a E5 model
Why would a valve removal cause these problems? That doesn't sound right
@@pkplayer358 that’s when the issues started. Only thing I can think of is that with the butterfly valve staying open, the A/F is thrown off enough to cause a problem. I imagine these bikes are tuned and manufactured very precisely and it wouldn’t take much to mess up the equilibrium
Thanks for posting your video! I just installed the ESE-A01 on my 2018 Dragster, after getting the "MALFUNCTION" warning message which once you slow down to a near stop switches to a "FAULT-EXHAUST VALVE" message. If you have a Dragster, here are some bits of advice that may be useful:
No big fairings on a Dragster, but you do need to remove the Belly pan. Four screws with a 5mm Allen bit for those.
The Servo Motor lives behind a small black plastic cover on the left side of the bike. Two 4mm Allen screws to remove that.
I could NOT figure out how to remove the servo motor itself, until I noticed the motor coming a bit loose after I removed the cover. You can gently pull it right off of the two mounting posts (where you just removed the two screws)! No need to unscrew the four tiny phillips head screws to access the guts of the servo motor (like I did). But when I removed that cover, the Exhaust Valve snapped into the open position (which I've read is how it should happen). You want the exhaust valve in the open position!
The rest of the removal of the cables, bolts and screws for the mechanism are just like in this video.
There is a foil-like heat shield that was between the Servo Motor and the black plastic cover. I figured I should leave it on the bike, and in fact, I adhered the ESE-A01 to that heat shield, which then goes back into place when you reattach the black cover. I found it helpful to have the two 4mm Allen screws in the holes already when I reattached the black cover. Everything went back together rather more smoothly than I thought it would (because I always think I'm going to mess something up)!
I didn't film anything because I don't have a decent camera with which to do that, but I wanted to be helpful by putting these hints in the comments. So there you go!
I have removed that entire assembly and put the servo elimintor on it. Still driving around with a Stop Engine, exhaust valve error. I haven't been bothered to try to get the code cleared yet. I'm lazy! Lol. It's still on my list. I've heard other ppl just leave the motor there and ignore it. :)
Cool bike!
A Healtech guy told me ESE-A01 (harness label code number is 210708 or later) now can fix also FI on the dash on Euro 4 models.
Healtech also introduces FI cleaner tool for Euro 4 model (FIC-MV-01for F3 675 2018-2019).
Humm, I will have to look into that.
Hi, my F3 had the same problem, the solotion was to clean the inside the central box.
Cool. I just figured it would be easier to remove the whole thing :)
What do you mean with the Central Box where can I find it on my MV
I get that ENG valve error but it goes away. But it sounds like my exhaust flap is closed. I increased speed to 100 and still sounds closed. The wires on my bike are gone it just has the module on the exhaust but how can i force it open ??? It's decreasing horsepower because of that crap
Yup. It does. I removed my module and the cables. It forces it open but I still have the exhaust valve error. Bike does sound better tho :)
Is it possible the error code will go away on it's own? I put a qd exhaust slip-on on my '14 F4 and that error code pops up every so often, but then will disappear just as randomly. My exhaust came with the healtech servo eliminator but I didn't install it, as I read on the mv forum that it would be hit or miss as to whether it would work or not. Also, you have to take off the gas tank and airbox to get at the module so it's a HUGE pita. According to healtech, mv electrical systems are wonky (at least the F4's) for lack of a better term. Also, you might consider putting 1/4 turn fasteners (Dzus) on to replace all of the fairing screws. They're expensive but SO worth it. They make such a huge difference, especially with hard-to-reach fasteners. I 'm still kicking myself for not putting them on my 748 and 848.
I contacted Bayside Performance where I bought it from. They were kinda saying if the error was present when you install the ESE, you will likely need a shop to clear the error. And that seems to be the case here as the error will not clear on it's own. Aparently there is a diag port under the rear seat. My local guy says he does not have the correct plug so I need to try the MV Shop, so I will update on that shortly. I'll look into those fasteners, I think I know the ones you mean. F4. Yummmy !
Does it need a tune because of the valve being permanently opened?
Humm hard to say. It probably can't hurt. I notice the bike likes to stall out sometimes now. So Yes it might be a good idea.
couldnot buy it but i can enjoy the show!
Hey Jas, does the old disconnect the battery trick not work on bikes? I know on some cars you can clear codes by doing this, just a thought.
Interesting idea. Depends on battery location I guess. I suspect on this bike it could mean dismantling half of the bike tho. Unless I can just pop a fuse.
Nice and clear video! I have a Brutale (2017) so i do not need to do the hassle with the fairing.
Did the bike get more rough on lower RPM with the module? I have read so.
Humm can't really say. I know it doesn't like going slow :)
@@RideThe6 Hah, that is so true 😅
Pros and cons ?
Pro's it sounds great ! Cons, still have an error on the dash that I will try to clear.
Hi I’m from Germany… my bike has the same Probleme 😅
My question is: how do you know the right position for „open“ ? :)
Hi Hellcat. Ya I have you on instagram. Once you remove that cable assembly that controls the exhaust, the mechanism will open automatically. I still need to clear my error tho at a shop even though I put the servo eliminator in.
@@RideThe6 ah, Great… thanks👍🏿 my older mv had the same problem, but after putting the Eli on, it was good… no error on display :)
Yo estoy en México tengo la mv agusta f3 2015 y le cuesta trabajo encenderla , la eh visto y y ya no tengo los chicotes que abren la válvula ya no los tiene y solo la empuje y prendió y me dijeron que para borrar el código debería de volver a prender la moto empujándola y en segunda y si fue ah si como se borró el código del tablero, solo que a 6 a 7 rpm la moto se ahoga y ya pasando eso se establece
@@RideThe6 ya tengo la solución para eliminar el codigo
@@isramtz46 Google translate says.. I am in Mexico I have the mv agusta f3 2015 and it costs work to turn it on, the eh seen and and I no longer have the guys who open the valve no longer have them and just push it and turned on and told me that to erase the code I should turn the bike back on pushing it and second and if it was ah if how the code was deleted from the dashboard, only that at 6 at 7 rpm the bike drowns and already passing that is established
How does it feel now power wise? Any lose of power with the exhaust valve always open?
No I don't think so. Weather has been crap here so it's been a while since i rode it tho.
@@RideThe6 mine does the same thing. So I’m thinking about doing what you did. Just was wondering if it felt like normal after installing it.
will this fit the 2013 model?
Maybe. Just check the HealTech website and enter your bike details to check.