Very cool! Something to consider for the future: the (bending) stiffness of the bending member is proportional to the cube of the thickness of the beam (your 2.2mm dimension), but the pull-out (axial) strength is proportional to the thickness itself (first power). So, if you need to decrease the snap force without decreasing the pull-out strength, you can split your snap beams into multiples, attached at the moving end. For example, replace your 2.2mm-thick beam with a pair of 1.1mm beams. The pulll-out strength will be similar, but the snap stiffness will be lower.
Thanks dude this really gave me a better idea I usually just look at something and try to reverse engineer it but this made it easier to design now I print and cross my fingers it works lol.
LOL! For me, you were like 2 days late with this video. Had to design myself a custom battery box with room for a CR2032 coin battery and a small switch. Had something close to what I wanted from some fairy lights I bought, but I needed to adjust it for my specific use. Whipped out my 15cm/150mm ruler, measured things up, and now have myself a project specific battery box. Great video! You are so right about things looking enormous in cad that are barely visible in reality lol
One thing to consider if you're making larger snaps or other flexible objects is infill pattern. If you aren't getting most of your infill from wall thickness, then using a concentric or spiral infill can give you good flexibility in the desired plane while preserving rigidity in other planes. I did that with some shock absorbing drone landing struts once, worked really well. Though you have to make sure your vertical axis is normal to the flex plane, the way the example snap was here, otherwise they'll come out brittle.
In a perfect world clearances wouldn’t be necessary but in the case of 3D printers the 0.3 clearances used is to account to slight errors in the 3D printing process. Parts shrink and warp while printing oh so slightly so zero clearance would often have parts be pressed fit together and not run smooth. Angus has a few clearance models available to print to determine how accurate your printer is for clearances. 0.3 is a good middle ground but I well tuned printer could get away with 0.2 or 0.1.
You should set a parameter and call it "Clearance" and set all your clearance dimensions to that variable. That way if want to go back and change the clearance, you just have to do it once in the edit parameters box.
@@cuulcars In Fusion 360, thats fairly simple: You open the "Modify" Tab, and click the "edit parameter" (i think it's called that way, its the button at the bottom) button. There you can add your own user-parameter with name, value and description (e.g. "clearance" with the value 0.1). In the Sketches, all you have to do now is instead off putting in a value, put in the name of your parameter (in this example type in "clearance"). Fusion will automatically use the value you put in earlier, and you can change the value whenever you want in the edit parameter box and it will update it. But be aware, that it might cause trouble if you change the parameters if your model isn't build to work with that sort of change.
@@terl0th In FreeCAD you can name a constraint and then reference that value by name. FreeCAD also features spreadsheet calculation and you can reference values in spread sheets. That's a very convenient way to manage global values like clearance or wall thickness.
Great video Angus, I've quite enjoyed it. Please forget reviewing cheap Chinese printers and teach us basic principles of industrial design. This kind of content is badly needed. Thanks!
11:00 first, the center rod should be at least as long as your outside prongs, but really it should be just slightly longer. it helps significantly right at the very beginning of insertion. that's the most critical moment, and i know from experience that it can make a huge difference for ease of use. 26:50 you can see here how he has to manually center it every time. if you're focused on the buckle and have a good hold on each side that's fine. but it's not ideal. if the center rod was longer, you could easily connect the two sides with hardly any consideration. on my backpack i can connect the two side with just one hand and without looking at it at all. great for when i forget to connect it, but i'm already on my bike and moving. i don't want to have to pull over to be precise enough with two hands to buckle it. second, it also helps with elastic fatigue because it forces the two bendy sides to bend at the same rate, instead of allowing one prong to bend more than the other and causing more wear and fatigue over time on that side. but third, and far more important, the main purpose is fulfilled after full insertion to keep the whole buckle centered. otherwise, lateral forces could easily pull the internal half to one side or the other, which could allow one of the prongs to disengage and the connection to fail.
Pro Tip: Prusa Slicer has a great function called "Elephant Foot Compensation" in the Advanced Tab - Its doing the same thing as you did with your trick - it basicly can make the first layer a bit smaller, so all layers are even and fit together just fine :)
One of the main functions of the center post of that design is that if only one of the prongs is depressed it will isolate that motion from the other prong and prevent the whole half of the buckel from rotating preventing the other prong from disengaging. Now if that wasn't a run on sentence, I don't know what is.
Nicely done and quite beautiful, too. I love making things that snap together especially when I can eliminate hardware fasteners. Noticed that your model was v24. Makes me feel a lot better that my own designs require so many revisions. Now back to v17 of my current design.
Why do several people use the 0 before the point? Eg: zero point 3 (0.3) vs point 3 (.3) waste of energy and time... Zero is understood when .x is used. This use of zero point is a really old convention about 1970ish and previous convention. I learned a more recent convention that is now about 50 years old. But I love your videos non the less. The world is changing and conventions are too changing. It always simplifies in time.
I've started to work in Fusion360 and I hate it :) The UI system resembles the most of CAD/CAM systems but the interaction is aweful. You need to learn some completely different principles (against other very popular systems like SolidWorks and Catia). The whole experience reminds me some kind of a martian program. It's counter-intuitive for me. Maybe I'm the one with this? :)
KiR-3d Well, it's free. The only other suitable freeware CAD software I found so far is OpenSCAD. Try it out, and you will never, ever be complaining about counterintuitive software again. I love it though, as it builds everything precisely on the values you enter; everything is exactly defined. I "need" that, which is why I can't stand Blender and stuff like that.
@@sh4dy832 Maybe in Blender (if you've meant it) it's very possible then a good CAD addon (i mean fully usable and working) will be made. Also i'm not telling about "what's free and what's not" ;) P.S. i assume that a non-free F360 gives you the same experience.
KiR-3d So you mean there's Blender addons (yes I was talking about that, fixed the typo now) that make it actually useable as CAD suitable for engineering stuff? Might have a look into that then...
hey dude ! I'm following you since the beginning. and I can say that's exactly why we are following ... please go on with this kind of video ;) greetings from France as usual. sry 4 my bad english btw i'd love to see you in a maker fair in our country !
Wonderful content, Angus! One of my goals is to design buckles that are easier for those with weak hands to use. And you’ve really helped me get good start! Thank you!
Very nice. I really enjoyed the walk through the design methodology and iterations. I'm looking forward to you doing a multi-part print that just snaps together now!
I cringed a bit as I watched you open the light switch with a screwdriver. Angus, you should go get a 10-pack of spudgers. In fact, anyone who's about to start building snaps might consider the same. Spudgers are really handy tools
@@MakersMuse -- Just finished the video. Now I want to find a spool of polypropylene. :-) The point of the spudger is that they tend to leave fewer marks on the plastic part you're disassembling than metal screwdrivers with sharp edges do. Thanks for the response. And definitely thanks for the excellent content!
The center buckle guide is essential. When the bending parts are bent, the fact that they are plastic makes them susceptible to achieving their yield point quickly and then having a negative spring rate. In other words, instead of getting harder to deflect the farther they are bent, they would actually lose strength and bend more easily. Without the center guide rail, all of the bending would be accepted by one of the barbs while the other remained straight. Also, the design may benefit from the center guide being longer.
It's probably obvious, but just make sure the lock release openings are big enough to push the locks far enough inward. Since there's a concave curve to the teeth rather than a box, a lock lip that's 2 mm will need more than a 2 mm cutout.
Heh, probably not. I'm just saying to take into account the area the user presses is inlaid a bit compared to the edge that locks the part in. __ |..| |...\-User presses here. The cutout should |.....\ be at least 2 mm inward from here. |..------
Actually they already have reusable zip ties available for purchase. Plus, 3D printing zip ties would actually cost just as much or be more expensive than actually buying zip ties.
You’ve got thin posts relying on layer adhesion carrying the maximum load by printing the female part vertically. Print that horizontally and have the shaft and posts up there thicker. Can add some chamfers to thin these areas for aesthetics a bit. Always trade offs it seems.
Getting the scale confused is a serious problem for me. I keep a pair of calipers on my desk but still find myself getting too focused on the modeling and don't "reality check" myself nearly as often as I need to. It really is as important as you say.
You should make a design competition and test the strength of each submissions. I personally print the outer receptacle flat with a 2nd hole for ribbon friction lock. Then I use the center tooth to prevent over pressing the tabs.
Hey Angus, in your video on how you designed the Combat fidget spinner you mention you should avoid mirroring sketches but rather mirror the body after you extrude. But here for the buckle you mirror the sketch for the prong side. I see this was 2 years ago however so wondering if you would have done this differently today, or there was a reason you mirrored the sketch? Thanks!
I wanted to use clips for something I was designing, but the whole interfacing thing ended up being rather complicated, so I decided to just use a friction fit; did some tests and found out 0.1mm was a sufficient offset for that. Not sure about everyone elses printers, but it's at least something to start with if you're looking for that kind of connection (ik this one guy that also tried it and had similar results) Also side note, chamfers tend to be better in terms of the vertical axis, but fillets are actually better for horizontal (bc slicing and layers and 💩)
Damnit was typing a long comment about how I did the math on this (0,35 times the distance from center to corner before the center pulley starts taking over on only vertical movement) and autoplay jumped to next video.... Oh well. Maybe I'll make my own video...
Remember the drop shaped holes you showed us? Same works for internal top surface of the buckle. Just make an angle there from both sides and you don't need to bridge the whole thing.
I'm trying to figure out the best method to clip this battery pack into this housing for an old firewire recording device. I'm going to make a slide lock and then a buckle at the end to snap it in securely... Although I wish I could find a better looking method, as a buckle looks funny lol
I've got a broken backpack buckle that the manufacturer can't send a replacement for anymore (changed the buckle design and ran out of the old ones). Guess it's time to look into glass-filled polypropylene. I assume the first step would be to get a hardened nozzle?
hi there love your video and out a dozen that i must have watched, this is the only one that i could understand, but no one is explaining about cad thing that you put into your computer, where do you get it from ? is it downloadable free and quite how you use it, everyone that I've watched doe's so fast you cant take it all in, they click on this and say do that but you have to be a computer wizard to work the CAD program so it don't give people like me a chance. the buckle video seemed ideal one to start with but do a take a photo of a buckle or just draw one on CAD program. please advise or maybe do a video about CAD program. i'd like to maybe make small but its a lot to get the 3D printer if you dont understand how CAD works. cheers stay safe regards George Whitby UK
And I was wondering what I was doing wrong. My sketches very often stay outlined in blue but when I try to add constraints it just tells me it would be over-constrained so I just let it be. Glad it's down to an app error and not my ignorance, haha!
I quickly printed your buckles and went rock climbing. It wasn't until I was on my way down from a 300 ft drop that I realized there may have been a disclaimer. I'm writing this from the hospital...
@makers muse i know this is a old video and you probably already know this but they literally make buckles with your design that are intended for a padlock to go through, free added benefit
@@MakersMuse 1. Guide should engage first - before locking elements; 2. Locking elements should have some limiters behind them - to prevent breaking by not allowing bend too much 3. The part printed vertical will be not as strong in comparison to part printed flat. ....Of course this is just my opinion!
Hi Angus, im looking into this type of content, about design. I imagine if exist a magazine or blog about this little things in a product, just like u did in this video. Tks
The challenge being 3d printing a buckle that can actually be used. You could build flexures to completely strengthen the buckle. You called also use steel reinforcement at critical loads.
Those would work rally well for cat colors with a release. so the cat can wear a color but is they get stuck on anything it open and they wont choke/hang themselves
I need a whole course or a degree in this sort of thing. Basic product/mechanical engineering with a connection to 3D models. I don't even know the name of the discipline that covers this.
please make an iterative design video ! I use shapr3D for my 3D (on Ipad only) models and it rocks for my students....! that is so simple to do precise models with this tool. It definitively deserve a tutorial video from you :) you had a lot of partnership with hardware suppliers ....time to go on the software side !
I'm really late, but those latching pieces that disconnect at certain forces are used on some lanyard mounts so that people can't be choked by the rope around their neck ^^
Has anyone ever pre-printed support material as a separate part, then sprayed it with mold release? The printer could be paused when actual part to be printed reaches the point that the support material is needed. The pre-printed support would then be laid in place and the printer restarted and it would be able to print across the top of the temporary support. The support material could be printed out of the same material as the final part.
Interesting timing as about a month or so ago I used similar techniques to build a bracket to hold on a heap ( about 80 ) of LED message badges for a costume project. Not sure if Angus will mention it ( in commenting before the video has ended ) but print orientation is important
I found your video exactly 2 years after you posted it and exactly at the right time because I have designed a wristband and now need to have some kind of locking mechanism. Your insights about the belt buckle are very helpful to me and will probably save me some time of try and error. Thanks for sharing and I love your videos !
@@inund8 I was merely making a warped joke about firing off some cheapest as possible safety equipment on the 3d printer for something already very dangerous and completely stupid to begin with. I'm an atheist, i don't climb rocks, theres no real afterlife to make up for overly studying gravity at the darwinian level. Thankyou for your concern.
Wow charging exorbitant prices for just a buckle clip? Never thought you would stoop so low. For lot of us $5 is a big amount, and for a clip , you're basically scamming others.
I’ve always been amazed at the tolerances that are designed for snaps especially when there’s rubber or something that’s squishing, yet everything perfectly lines up.
Thanks Angus. I have a metalic arm with a go pro mount attached witch I usually use for a phone holder. I had made a small clamp that attaches too it for general utility with two smooth bumped pads were they meat. The original Pads were PLA witch I planned on eventually replacing with a more flexible material so this buckling mechanism was perfect for making them easy to remove and replace
Did these end up failing in fatigue? With it being a cyclic load, I'd be inclined to radius the inside corner at the root of the part that flexes to reduce the stress concentration.
There are so many objects and mechanisms around us that we take for granted and never really look closely at to see how they work (like buckles). I enjoyed seeing that, it gave me some inspiration for future designs.
got into 3d design recently and yes I am amazed by all the daily items we take for granted our entire lives. Some genius level compliant mechanisms are present within even disposable items
large clearances should *not* be designed into objects themselves, bevause that will screw up the (proper) calibration of the 3D printer. It will result in an overly-compensated clearance and thus a failed print. As each 3D printer is different, and people using different configurations in their slicer profile, one can not know what it will eventually turn into. Slic3r has this option in /Print Settings/Advanced/XY compensation
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Honestly I don't even own a 3d printer
I'm just here for the snaps
And nothing snaps better than a 3D print.
i have one but im with you. snaps are great
awww snap...
Very cool! Something to consider for the future: the (bending) stiffness of the bending member is proportional to the cube of the thickness of the beam (your 2.2mm dimension), but the pull-out (axial) strength is proportional to the thickness itself (first power). So, if you need to decrease the snap force without decreasing the pull-out strength, you can split your snap beams into multiples, attached at the moving end. For example, replace your 2.2mm-thick beam with a pair of 1.1mm beams. The pulll-out strength will be similar, but the snap stiffness will be lower.
Thanks dude this really gave me a better idea I usually just look at something and try to reverse engineer it but this made it easier to design now I print and cross my fingers it works lol.
LOL! For me, you were like 2 days late with this video. Had to design myself a custom battery box with room for a CR2032 coin battery and a small switch. Had something close to what I wanted from some fairy lights I bought, but I needed to adjust it for my specific use. Whipped out my 15cm/150mm ruler, measured things up, and now have myself a project specific battery box. Great video! You are so right about things looking enormous in cad that are barely visible in reality lol
You are genius! Thanks! Sincerely - A R&D Engineer who was in need of this exact information :-D
One thing to consider if you're making larger snaps or other flexible objects is infill pattern. If you aren't getting most of your infill from wall thickness, then using a concentric or spiral infill can give you good flexibility in the desired plane while preserving rigidity in other planes. I did that with some shock absorbing drone landing struts once, worked really well. Though you have to make sure your vertical axis is normal to the flex plane, the way the example snap was here, otherwise they'll come out brittle.
Good video on the design process! Would love to see more like this. Have my like sir!
He can have mine aswell
This video comes at a convenient time! Thanks!
I had a full week of class at the university just talking about these
So, question: How important is having that level of clearance that you used in the design between the two components? Also, is it really necessary?
In a perfect world clearances wouldn’t be necessary but in the case of 3D printers the 0.3 clearances used is to account to slight errors in the 3D printing process. Parts shrink and warp while printing oh so slightly so zero clearance would often have parts be pressed fit together and not run smooth. Angus has a few clearance models available to print to determine how accurate your printer is for clearances. 0.3 is a good middle ground but I well tuned printer could get away with 0.2 or 0.1.
Snap?
Thanos aproves
Stop apologising for the way you use Fusion. Their will always be different ways of achieving the same thing, and they're all correct.
Here in the south we have a saying, there’s a hundred different ways to skin that pig.
@@Burnintrees384 we say to skin the cat.
@@heavyweather That’s just evil. Y’all Yankees eat cats wtf!?
@@Burnintrees384 they're all living things at the end of the day (and I would take a pig as a pet over a cat, to be honest..)
You should set a parameter and call it "Clearance" and set all your clearance dimensions to that variable. That way if want to go back and change the clearance, you just have to do it once in the edit parameters box.
Is there a tutorial on how to do something like this?
@@cuulcars In Fusion 360, thats fairly simple: You open the "Modify" Tab, and click the "edit parameter" (i think it's called that way, its the button at the bottom) button. There you can add your own user-parameter with name, value and description (e.g. "clearance" with the value 0.1). In the Sketches, all you have to do now is instead off putting in a value, put in the name of your parameter (in this example type in "clearance"). Fusion will automatically use the value you put in earlier, and you can change the value whenever you want in the edit parameter box and it will update it.
But be aware, that it might cause trouble if you change the parameters if your model isn't build to work with that sort of change.
@@terl0th In FreeCAD you can name a constraint and then reference that value by name. FreeCAD also features spreadsheet calculation and you can reference values in spread sheets. That's a very convenient way to manage global values like clearance or wall thickness.
But who says there's only one clearance value in his design?
@@cuulcars But to answer your question, yes there are several tutorials on how to do this on UA-cam and on the F360 site.
Great video Angus, I've quite enjoyed it. Please forget reviewing cheap Chinese printers and teach us basic principles of industrial design. This kind of content is badly needed. Thanks!
I'm in!
i as well would love to see this series!
Very true.
The snap felt so good, it wiped out half of the universe.
11:00 first, the center rod should be at least as long as your outside prongs, but really it should be just slightly longer. it helps significantly right at the very beginning of insertion. that's the most critical moment, and i know from experience that it can make a huge difference for ease of use. 26:50 you can see here how he has to manually center it every time. if you're focused on the buckle and have a good hold on each side that's fine. but it's not ideal. if the center rod was longer, you could easily connect the two sides with hardly any consideration. on my backpack i can connect the two side with just one hand and without looking at it at all. great for when i forget to connect it, but i'm already on my bike and moving. i don't want to have to pull over to be precise enough with two hands to buckle it.
second, it also helps with elastic fatigue because it forces the two bendy sides to bend at the same rate, instead of allowing one prong to bend more than the other and causing more wear and fatigue over time on that side.
but third, and far more important, the main purpose is fulfilled after full insertion to keep the whole buckle centered. otherwise, lateral forces could easily pull the internal half to one side or the other, which could allow one of the prongs to disengage and the connection to fail.
Part 2 for this video should be done by CNCkitchen for elasticity test and parts design. Should be interesting.
As long as he doesn't talk at all. His video content might be high quality but his presentation makes me click away.
@@timojissink4715 I don't like his talking style either, although I'm German myself. But his videos are the only source of such information so...
Pro Tip: Prusa Slicer has a great function called "Elephant Foot Compensation" in the Advanced Tab - Its doing the same thing as you did with your trick - it basicly can make the first layer a bit smaller, so all layers are even and fit together just fine :)
Neat! I'll have to play with that.
This would be amazing for sla/dlp printers, I've been thinking about it for a while but had no way to implement it
Iirc there's also "first layer extrusion width" which is slightly larger than main extrusion width by default.
I always thought this should be handled by the slicer rather than altering the part itself. 🤓👍
One of the main functions of the center post of that design is that if only one of the prongs is depressed it will isolate that motion from the other prong and prevent the whole half of the buckel from rotating preventing the other prong from disengaging. Now if that wasn't a run on sentence, I don't know what is.
Nicely done and quite beautiful, too. I love making things that snap together especially when I can eliminate hardware fasteners. Noticed that your model was v24. Makes me feel a lot better that my own designs require so many revisions. Now back to v17 of my current design.
You could have a master class just designing clasps, catches and other fastening implements. Well done!
Why do several people use the 0 before the point?
Eg: zero point 3 (0.3) vs point 3 (.3)
waste of energy and time...
Zero is understood when .x is used. This use of zero point is a really old convention about 1970ish and previous convention.
I learned a more recent convention that is now about 50 years old.
But I love your videos non the less.
The world is changing and conventions are too changing.
It always simplifies in time.
Great video. Many people in 3d printing have no background in CAD so I'm sure this will be useful to many.
I've started to work in Fusion360 and I hate it :) The UI system resembles the most of CAD/CAM systems but the interaction is aweful. You need to learn some completely different principles (against other very popular systems like SolidWorks and Catia). The whole experience reminds me some kind of a martian program. It's counter-intuitive for me. Maybe I'm the one with this? :)
KiR-3d Well, it's free. The only other suitable freeware CAD software I found so far is OpenSCAD. Try it out, and you will never, ever be complaining about counterintuitive software again.
I love it though, as it builds everything precisely on the values you enter; everything is exactly defined. I "need" that, which is why I can't stand Blender and stuff like that.
@@sh4dy832 Maybe in Blender (if you've meant it) it's very possible then a good CAD addon (i mean fully usable and working) will be made.
Also i'm not telling about "what's free and what's not" ;)
P.S. i assume that a non-free F360 gives you the same experience.
KiR-3d So you mean there's Blender addons (yes I was talking about that, fixed the typo now) that make it actually useable as CAD suitable for engineering stuff? Might have a look into that then...
hey dude ! I'm following you since the beginning. and I can say that's exactly why we are following ... please go on with this kind of video ;) greetings from France as usual. sry 4 my bad english
btw i'd love to see you in a maker fair in our country !
Just love your practical and functional videos. Thanks.
Wonderful content, Angus! One of my goals is to design buckles that are easier for those with weak hands to use. And you’ve really helped me get good start! Thank you!
Very nice. I really enjoyed the walk through the design methodology and iterations. I'm looking forward to you doing a multi-part print that just snaps together now!
Can't beat having a pair of calipers laying around. I've noticed anything printed vertically has more chance to break due to layering. Great video.
This video arrives just as I was thinking of designing my own bicycle bag under the seat.
I love you.
@@charliep1098 no u
I cringed a bit as I watched you open the light switch with a screwdriver. Angus, you should go get a 10-pack of spudgers. In fact, anyone who's about to start building snaps might consider the same. Spudgers are really handy tools
I do need some, but don't worry I only use worthless screwdrivers like this !
@@MakersMuse -- Just finished the video. Now I want to find a spool of polypropylene. :-) The point of the spudger is that they tend to leave fewer marks on the plastic part you're disassembling than metal screwdrivers with sharp edges do. Thanks for the response. And definitely thanks for the excellent content!
The tips of the prongs ended up looking like Easter Island heads
The center buckle guide is essential. When the bending parts are bent, the fact that they are plastic makes them susceptible to achieving their yield point quickly and then having a negative spring rate. In other words, instead of getting harder to deflect the farther they are bent, they would actually lose strength and bend more easily. Without the center guide rail, all of the bending would be accepted by one of the barbs while the other remained straight.
Also, the design may benefit from the center guide being longer.
It's probably obvious, but just make sure the lock release openings are big enough to push the locks far enough inward. Since there's a concave curve to the teeth rather than a box, a lock lip that's 2 mm will need more than a 2 mm cutout.
Will 2.00001mm be enough?
Heh, probably not. I'm just saying to take into account the area the user presses is inlaid a bit compared to the edge that locks the part in.
__
|..|
|...\-User presses here. The cutout should
|.....\ be at least 2 mm inward from here.
|..------
Actually they already have reusable zip ties available for purchase. Plus, 3D printing zip ties would actually cost just as much or be more expensive than actually buying zip ties.
I am interested in seeing 4 ultraslim Laptop dvd drives in one dvd drive Slot of an normal Computer. I'd like to see an print.
im rather bad at 3d Software.
Wow you really made the Video! I asked for it a few months ago, thank you very much for creating all the videos! :)
Wow this could help make my rocket parts lighter instead of always using screws! Thanks Angus!
just model a screw and nut? I have done that more than once.
@@elitewolverine Good point, although printed screes are too weak
@@YukonK9 If a printed screw is to week, then these snaps will break like a twig.
How many times you need to say ""here"" ??????
Nice! More technical and practical videos please.
You’ve got thin posts relying on layer adhesion carrying the maximum load by printing the female part vertically. Print that horizontally and have the shaft and posts up there thicker. Can add some chamfers to thin these areas for aesthetics a bit. Always trade offs it seems.
I think being able to be very clear when communicating, as you do, is a rare skill
Where is the Thanos reference ???
Getting the scale confused is a serious problem for me. I keep a pair of calipers on my desk but still find myself getting too focused on the modeling and don't "reality check" myself nearly as often as I need to. It really is as important as you say.
You should make a design competition and test the strength of each submissions.
I personally print the outer receptacle flat with a 2nd hole for ribbon friction lock.
Then I use the center tooth to prevent over pressing the tabs.
Hey Angus, in your video on how you designed the Combat fidget spinner you mention you should avoid mirroring sketches but rather mirror the body after you extrude. But here for the buckle you mirror the sketch for the prong side. I see this was 2 years ago however so wondering if you would have done this differently today, or there was a reason you mirrored the sketch? Thanks!
I bought a packet of undo-able zip ties from LIDL (European supermarket). I'd never come across them before. Nice.
any zip tie can be undone with a sharp pick
I wanted to use clips for something I was designing, but the whole interfacing thing ended up being rather complicated, so I decided to just use a friction fit; did some tests and found out 0.1mm was a sufficient offset for that. Not sure about everyone elses printers, but it's at least something to start with if you're looking for that kind of connection (ik this one guy that also tried it and had similar results)
Also side note, chamfers tend to be better in terms of the vertical axis, but fillets are actually better for horizontal (bc slicing and layers and 💩)
Damnit was typing a long comment about how I did the math on this (0,35 times the distance from center to corner before the center pulley starts taking over on only vertical movement) and autoplay jumped to next video.... Oh well. Maybe I'll make my own video...
Remember the drop shaped holes you showed us? Same works for internal top surface of the buckle. Just make an angle there from both sides and you don't need to bridge the whole thing.
I'm trying to figure out the best method to clip this battery pack into this housing for an old firewire recording device. I'm going to make a slide lock and then a buckle at the end to snap it in securely... Although I wish I could find a better looking method, as a buckle looks funny lol
I've got a broken backpack buckle that the manufacturer can't send a replacement for anymore (changed the buckle design and ran out of the old ones). Guess it's time to look into glass-filled polypropylene. I assume the first step would be to get a hardened nozzle?
I'd be worried about printing the receiving buckle vertically. The bar you'd attach a belt to will be fairly easy to break off.
Do you sell those products .
hi there love your video and out a dozen that i must have watched,
this is the only one that i could understand, but no one is explaining about cad thing that you put into your computer, where do you get it from ? is it downloadable free and quite how you use it, everyone that I've watched doe's so fast you cant take it all in, they click on this and say do that but you have to be a computer wizard to work the CAD program so it don't give people like me a chance. the buckle video seemed ideal one to start with but do a take a photo of a buckle or just draw one on CAD program. please advise or maybe do a video about CAD program.
i'd like to maybe make small but its a lot to get the 3D printer if you dont understand how CAD works.
cheers stay safe regards George Whitby UK
And I was wondering what I was doing wrong. My sketches very often stay outlined in blue but when I try to add constraints it just tells me it would be over-constrained so I just let it be. Glad it's down to an app error and not my ignorance, haha!
I quickly printed your buckles and went rock climbing. It wasn't until I was on my way down from a 300 ft drop that I realized there may have been a disclaimer. I'm writing this from the hospital...
sure...
"2 mm looks huge on screen, but it's really tiny" I design in .1mms and I find the ONLY way i can fully judge sizes is to print. it's annoying
@makers muse i know this is a old video and you probably already know this but they literally make buckles with your design that are intended for a padlock to go through, free added benefit
How can someone talk for 8 minutes defining a clasp? Even toddlers understand in 10 seconds. What has UA-cam become.
I see a number of flaws in this design, but anyway - it's a good beginner's tutorial! Voted up. :)
It would be good to list them to help others in the design.
Yes please, always looking to improve!
@@MakersMuse
1. Guide should engage first - before locking elements;
2. Locking elements should have some limiters behind them - to prevent breaking by not allowing bend too much
3. The part printed vertical will be not as strong in comparison to part printed flat.
....Of course this is just my opinion!
How about making a LOCKING Buckle like that? for say things like a side bags for a bike or something you want to be able to secure at times?
Hi Angus, im looking into this type of content, about design. I imagine if exist a magazine or blog about this little things in a product, just like u did in this video. Tks
Hahah "None of these should be used for life dependant applications, OMG please"
Really good video man!
The challenge being 3d printing a buckle that can actually be used. You could build flexures to completely strengthen the buckle. You called also use steel reinforcement at critical loads.
Those would work rally well for cat colors with a release. so the cat can wear a color but is they get stuck on anything it open and they wont choke/hang themselves
Part 2 please
PLA and PETG are too rigid to make a flexible structure. Those materials are more likely to break than to flex.
I need a whole course or a degree in this sort of thing. Basic product/mechanical engineering with a connection to 3D models. I don't even know the name of the discipline that covers this.
please make an iterative design video ! I use shapr3D for my 3D (on Ipad only) models and it rocks for my students....! that is so simple to do precise models with this tool. It definitively deserve a tutorial video from you :) you had a lot of partnership with hardware suppliers ....time to go on the software side !
I didnt think some one will explain for me how to open a box
This is to much
I'm really late, but those latching pieces that disconnect at certain forces are used on some lanyard mounts so that people can't be choked by the rope around their neck ^^
Has anyone ever pre-printed support material as a separate part, then sprayed it with mold release? The printer could be paused when actual part to be printed reaches the point that the support material is needed. The pre-printed support would then be laid in place and the printer restarted and it would be able to print across the top of the temporary support. The support material could be printed out of the same material as the final part.
This kinda give me a idea wonder if you could print them in a material that would easily burn off and cast a metal clip?
Just failed horribly at this and your video is perfectly timed! Back to the sketch book! Thanks Angus! 👊🏻🤘❤
Very nice. thanks. I made seperable keychains based on these ideas and recommendations. Did not know where to start.
This is an "how to make a cooler and more characterist buckle for cosplays" 😎
Can we expect more vids like these now ON!
Interesting timing as about a month or so ago I used similar techniques to build a bracket to hold on a heap ( about 80 ) of LED message badges for a costume project.
Not sure if Angus will mention it ( in commenting before the video has ended ) but print orientation is important
The ripe fear relevantly sin because raft encouragingly trot forenenst a noiseless particle. unnatural, oceanic tomato
Tried those in my car, now my bestfriend is in hospital following the car accident
How would I go about making it bigger while keeping its flexibility?
I found your video exactly 2 years after you posted it and exactly at the right time because I have designed a wristband and now need to have some kind of locking mechanism. Your insights about the belt buckle are very helpful to me and will probably save me some time of try and error. Thanks for sharing and I love your videos !
Perfect for my rock climbing safety gear. Thanx
Hopefully you know these are definitely not suitable for that unless scaled up and tested very thoroughly first.
Jesus I hope you didn't die in an unfortunate rock climbing equipment failur
@@inund8 I was merely making a warped joke about firing off some cheapest as possible safety equipment on the 3d printer for something already very dangerous and completely stupid to begin with. I'm an atheist, i don't climb rocks, theres no real afterlife to make up for overly studying gravity at the darwinian level.
Thankyou for your concern.
@@truetech4158
Wow charging exorbitant prices for just a buckle clip? Never thought you would stoop so low. For lot of us $5 is a big amount, and for a clip , you're basically scamming others.
CAD it yourself then, this is a tutorial after all
The easy release is a safety design - a name tag hanging around your neck will easily breakaway if caught, rather than pulling you in. Nice video!
Also, cat collars!
I’ve always been amazed at the tolerances that are designed for snaps especially when there’s rubber or something that’s squishing, yet everything perfectly lines up.
Did you really talk 5 mins how case is opening and closing?
my brain said, " why is he wearing a hoodie?" then i remembered southern hemisphere
so smart
At the starting 3 words he kind of sound like mombo jombo
Thanks Angus. I have a metalic arm with a go pro mount attached witch I usually use for a phone holder. I had made a small clamp that attaches too it for general utility with two smooth bumped pads were they meat. The original Pads were PLA witch I planned on eventually replacing with a more flexible material so this buckling mechanism was perfect for making them easy to remove and replace
Do you know such materials which are good - flexible(but not that flexible and not brithle) and UV resistant?
Perfect for the suicidal mountain climber!
Very nice. I will use that in some of my projects. Thanks from Germany :-)
I prefer flex over the word deform deform means that it's not going to come back to shape. But your video was awesome
mathew phillips Deformation may be elastic or inelastic.
Did these end up failing in fatigue? With it being a cyclic load, I'd be inclined to radius the inside corner at the root of the part that flexes to reduce the stress concentration.
Haha, nevermind. I commented before you added the radii
There are so many objects and mechanisms around us that we take for granted and never really look closely at to see how they work (like buckles). I enjoyed seeing that, it gave me some inspiration for future designs.
got into 3d design recently and yes I am amazed by all the daily items we take for granted our entire lives. Some genius level compliant mechanisms are present within even disposable items
Meh, rulers are for plebs. Get a digital caliper.
large clearances should *not* be designed into objects themselves, bevause that will screw up the (proper) calibration of the 3D printer. It will result in an overly-compensated clearance and thus a failed print. As each 3D printer is different, and people using different configurations in their slicer profile, one can not know what it will eventually turn into.
Slic3r has this option in /Print Settings/Advanced/XY compensation
27:34 printing up car seat belt buckle replacement now.
I'm sure they'd also make excellent rock climbing safety equipment...
I read the title as "designing buckets"